You know when you want to extract a short, unbroken stud from a casting
without damaging it, but it's stuck tight? Well I never found a good
way. But I had an idea this afternoon. I took a hex nut, cut a radial
slit through the nut, screwed it onto the stud, and squeezed it tight in
a mole wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it worked a bit like a collet. It
turned the stud out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg

No doubt some dude in Detroit had the same idea about 80 years ago, but
I was pleased with it :-).

Chris

Christopher Tidy wrote:

You know when you want to extract a short, unbroken stud from a casting
without damaging it, but it's stuck tight? Well I never found a good
way. But I had an idea this afternoon. I took a hex nut, cut a radial
slit through the nut, screwed it onto the stud, and squeezed it tight in
a mole wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it worked a bit like a collet. It
turned the stud out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg

That looks like it should work nicely. The more traditional approach is
to use two nuts jambed together

-jim


No doubt some dude in Detroit had the same idea about 80 years ago, but
I was pleased with it :-).

Chris

jim wrote:

That looks like it should work nicely. The more traditional approach is
to use two nuts jambed together.

I tried that a good few times. Often, it didn't grip tightly enough. In
this case, there's only enough thread protruding for one full nut.

Chris

Christopher Tidy wrote:
You know when you want to extract a short, unbroken stud from a
casting without damaging it, but it's stuck tight? Well I never found
a good way. But I had an idea this afternoon. I took a hex nut, cut a
radial slit through the nut, screwed it onto the stud, and squeezed it
tight in a mole wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it worked a bit like a
collet. It turned the stud out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg

No doubt some dude in Detroit had the same idea about 80 years ago,
but I was pleased with it :-).

Chris

Reminds me of a couple of years ago when I wanted to extract the shanks
of the spinning tools I had made from the ash handles. When I made them
information was not that readily available it seemed so I sank the steel
tools too far into the handles for the size of work I was doing and
wanted to extract them about a further 6", luckily I had made them
longer than really required. I had set the shanks in with fibreglass
resin. I made a U plate to fit over the tool shank and that had 2 bolts
that bore against the vice jaws that I clamped the shank into, the U
plate pushing on the handle end. Tightening the vice as much as I dared,
a Record 4" vice, it always slipped. When I sat back and thought about
it I realised that vices aren't really intended for high clamping loads
so I made a new clamp for the shank out of 2 pieces of 2" x 1/2" CRS and
used 2 1/2" UNF bolts to provide the clamping load, when tightened that
didn't slip at all and when the bolts on the U plate were tightened it
almost immediately creaked as the bond was broken and the shanks came free.

I think like vices Mole wrenches don't clamp that hard but good to here
a nice easy solution worked for you.

Clap, clap clap! That idea is a keeper in case I ever need it.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames

"Christopher Tidy" wrote in message
...
You know when you want to extract a short, unbroken stud from a casting
without damaging it, but it's stuck tight? Well I never found a good way.
But I had an idea this afternoon. I took a hex nut, cut a radial slit
through the nut, screwed it onto the stud, and squeezed it tight in a mole
wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it worked a bit like a collet. It turned the
stud out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg

No doubt some dude in Detroit had the same idea about 80 years ago, but I
was pleased with it :-).

Chris

"Christopher Tidy"
wrote in message
...
You know when you want to extract a short,
unbroken stud from a casting without damaging
it, but it's stuck tight? Well I never found a
good way. But I had an idea this afternoon. I
took a hex nut, cut a radial slit through the
nut, screwed it onto the stud, and squeezed it
tight in a mole wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it
worked a bit like a collet. It turned the stud
out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg

No doubt some dude in Detroit had the same idea
about 80 years ago, but I was pleased with it
:-).

Chris

I've used this same trick to make thread repair
inserts for
stripped aluminum using steel setscrews. I'll
anneal them
first then mount them in the chuck with this trick
to cut the
internal threads of the insert. These work much
better than
heli-coils. On the larger screws I'll cut a groove
down the
outside threads of the insert and after it's
turned in to depth
I'll drive a stiff wire down the groove to lock it
all in place.
phil

David Billington wrote:
Christopher Tidy wrote:
You know when you want to extract a short, unbroken stud from a
casting without damaging it, but it's stuck tight? Well I never found
a good way. But I had an idea this afternoon. I took a hex nut, cut a
radial slit through the nut, screwed it onto the stud, and squeezed it
tight in a mole wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it worked a bit like a
collet. It turned the stud out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg

No doubt some dude in Detroit had the same idea about 80 years ago,
but I was pleased with it :-).

Chris

Reminds me of a couple of years ago when I wanted to extract the shanks
of the spinning tools I had made from the ash handles. When I made them
information was not that readily available it seemed so I sank the steel
tools too far into the handles for the size of work I was doing and
wanted to extract them about a further 6", luckily I had made them
longer than really required. I had set the shanks in with fibreglass
resin. I made a U plate to fit over the tool shank and that had 2 bolts
that bore against the vice jaws that I clamped the shank into, the U
plate pushing on the handle end. Tightening the vice as much as I dared,
a Record 4" vice, it always slipped. When I sat back and thought about
it I realised that vices aren't really intended for high clamping loads
so I made a new clamp for the shank out of 2 pieces of 2" x 1/2" CRS and
used 2 1/2" UNF bolts to provide the clamping load, when tightened that
didn't slip at all and when the bolts on the U plate were tightened it
almost immediately creaked as the bond was broken and the shanks came free.

I think like vices Mole wrenches don't clamp that hard but good to here
a nice easy solution worked for you.


A nice little 6 inch Ridged pipe wrench works great for pulling out
studs. It also works well on those corroded brake line fittings that
a regular tubing wrench slips on.

John

Christopher Tidy wrote:
You know when you want to extract a short, unbroken stud from a casting
without damaging it, but it's stuck tight? Well I never found a good
way. But I had an idea this afternoon. I took a hex nut, cut a radial
slit through the nut, screwed it onto the stud, and squeezed it tight in
a mole wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it worked a bit like a collet. It
turned the stud out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg

Positioning the vise-grip jaws one facet to the left would let the
"leading edge" of the nut (that follows the cut) dig in for a better bite.

Beryl wrote:

Christopher Tidy wrote:
You know when you want to extract a short, unbroken stud from a casting
without damaging it, but it's stuck tight? Well I never found a good
way. But I had an idea this afternoon. I took a hex nut, cut a radial
slit through the nut, screwed it onto the stud, and squeezed it tight in
a mole wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it worked a bit like a collet. It
turned the stud out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg

Positioning the vise-grip jaws one facet to the left would let the
"leading edge" of the nut (that follows the cut) dig in for a better bite.

The vise grip slipping on the flats of the nut are going to be the
limiting factor in the amount of torque you can deliver to the stud.

-jim

On Mar 14, 9:41*pm, John wrote:
David Billington wrote:
Christopher Tidy wrote:
You know when you want to extract a short, unbroken stud from a
casting without damaging it, but it's stuck tight? Well I never found
a good way. But I had an idea this afternoon. I took a hex nut, cut a
radial slit through the nut, screwed it onto the stud, and squeezed it
tight in a mole wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it worked a bit like a
collet. It turned the stud out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg

No doubt some dude in Detroit had the same idea about 80 years ago,
but I was pleased with it :-).

Chris

Reminds me of a couple of years ago when I wanted to extract the shanks
of the spinning tools I had made from the ash handles. When I made them
information was not that readily available it seemed so I sank the steel
tools too far into the handles for the size of work I was doing and
wanted to extract them about a further 6", luckily I had made them
longer than really required. I had set the shanks in with fibreglass
resin. I made a U plate to fit over the tool shank and that had 2 bolts
that bore against the vice jaws that I clamped the shank into, the U
plate pushing on the handle end. Tightening the vice as much as I dared,
a Record 4" vice, it always slipped. When I sat back and thought about
it I realised that vices aren't really intended for high clamping loads
so I made a new clamp for the shank out of 2 pieces of 2" x 1/2" CRS and
used 2 1/2" UNF bolts to provide the clamping load, when tightened that
didn't slip at all and when the bolts on the U plate were tightened it
almost immediately creaked as the bond was broken and the shanks came free.

I think like vices Mole wrenches don't clamp that hard but good to here
a nice easy solution worked for you.

A nice little *6 inch Ridged pipe wrench works great for pulling out
studs. * It also works well on those *corroded brake line fittings that
a regular tubing wrench slips on.

John- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

They make a V-jawed Vise-grip model in several sizes for just such
tubing fittings. Would also work for the slit nut on the stud thing,
too. I tend to use the 3" model a whole lot, works great on brake
fittings. Haven't run across one yet that it couldn't get out. Even
works on the rounded-off jobs that the flare-nut wrenches sprung over
the flats on.

Stan

jim wrote:
Beryl wrote:
Christopher Tidy wrote:
You know when you want to extract a short, unbroken stud from a casting
without damaging it, but it's stuck tight? Well I never found a good
way. But I had an idea this afternoon. I took a hex nut, cut a radial
slit through the nut, screwed it onto the stud, and squeezed it tight in
a mole wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it worked a bit like a collet. It
turned the stud out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg
Positioning the vise-grip jaws one facet to the left would let the
"leading edge" of the nut (that follows the cut) dig in for a better bite.

The vise grip slipping on the flats of the nut are going to be the
limiting factor in the amount of torque you can deliver to the stud.

-jim

Looks like the nut is clamped between the tips of the jaws so that the
nut won't be damaged. Who cares? Get the nut down in the toothy area,
closer to the fulcrum, and it's less prone to slip.

I think the cotter pin on that other nut is installed incorrectly.
Should be turned 90*, so that one leg bends up over the nut, and the
other points down. I never figured out why it makes a difference, but
that's what I learned somewhere.

Did you need to heat the casing?

Thank you for sharing what works.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Christopher Tidy" wrote in
message ...
You know when you want to extract a short, unbroken stud
from a casting
without damaging it, but it's stuck tight? Well I never
found a good
way. But I had an idea this afternoon. I took a hex nut, cut
a radial
slit through the nut, screwed it onto the stud, and squeezed
it tight in
a mole wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it worked a bit like a
collet. It
turned the stud out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg

No doubt some dude in Detroit had the same idea about 80
years ago, but
I was pleased with it :-).

Chris

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Did you need to heat the casing?

No, it turned out without heat.

Chris

"Beryl"
wrote in message jim wrote:
Beryl wrote:
Christopher Tidy wrote:
You know when you want to extract a short,
unbroken stud from a casting
without damaging it, but it's stuck tight?
Well I never found a good
way. But I had an idea this afternoon. I took
a hex nut, cut a radial
slit through the nut, screwed it onto the
stud, and squeezed it tight in
a mole wrench (i.e., vise grips). So it
worked a bit like a collet. It
turned the stud out easily. Here's a pictu
http://www.mythic-beasts.com/~cdt22/stud_extractor.jpg
Positioning the vise-grip jaws one facet to
the left would let the
"leading edge" of the nut (that follows the
cut) dig in for a better bite.

The vise grip slipping on the flats of the nut
are going to be the
limiting factor in the amount of torque you can
deliver to the stud.

-jim

Looks like the nut is clamped between the tips
of the jaws so that the nut won't be damaged.
Who cares? Get the nut down in the toothy area,
closer to the fulcrum, and it's less prone to
slip.

I think the cotter pin on that other nut is
installed incorrectly. Should be turned 90*, so
that one leg bends up over the nut, and the
other points down. I never figured out why it
makes a difference, but that's what I learned
somewhere.

That cotter pin is in correctly. In this postion
it is more resistant
to shearing if the nut is turned somehow in
service. And with
the eye protruding it is easier to pull for
maintainence.
phil k.

Phil Kangas wrote:

I think the cotter pin on that other nut is
installed incorrectly. Should be turned 90*, so
that one leg bends up over the nut, and the
other points down. I never figured out why it
makes a difference, but that's what I learned
somewhere.


That cotter pin is in correctly. In this postion
it is more resistant
to shearing if the nut is turned somehow in
service. And with
the eye protruding it is easier to pull for
maintainence.
phil k.

I've seen them installed both ways. But more commonly in the way shown
in my picture.

Chris

Beryl wrote:

Positioning the vise-grip jaws one facet to the left would let the
"leading edge" of the nut (that follows the cut) dig in for a better bite.

And maybe damage the stud, which I badly needed to avoid!

Chris

It turned out well.

I wonder if you could have removed the stud with vise grips,
directly on the stud?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Christopher Tidy" wrote in
message ...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Did you need to heat the casing?

No, it turned out without heat.

Chris

Christopher Tidy wrote:
Beryl wrote:

Positioning the vise-grip jaws one facet to the left would let the
"leading edge" of the nut (that follows the cut) dig in for a better
bite.

And maybe damage the stud, which I badly needed to avoid!

Chris

I did a crummy job, describing the edge literally digging into the stud!

The way the pliers are positioned in the pic, clamping pressures are as
close to the trailing edge, and far from the leading edge, as they can
be. The split nut is pushed around from behind, tangential force wanting
to lift the rear of the nut off the stud, "unwrapping" it.
Move the clamping pressure close to the leading edge and the nut will
wrap as it's pulled, closing more tightly around the stud.


A situation where a split "stud" grabs the nut around it...

Think of drum brake shoes. When forced outward, the leading edge of a
shoe wedges tightly against the turning drum. A trailing edge forced
outward isn't very effective.

Christopher Tidy wrote:
Phil Kangas wrote:

I think the cotter pin on that other nut is installed incorrectly.
Should be turned 90*, so that one leg bends up over the nut, and the
other points down. I never figured out why it makes a difference, but
that's what I learned somewhere.


That cotter pin is in correctly. In this postion it is more resistant
to shearing if the nut is turned somehow in service. And with
the eye protruding it is easier to pull for maintainence.
phil k.

I've seen them installed both ways. But more commonly in the way shown
in my picture.

Chris

An Airframe & Powerplant Mechanics textbook, and FAA Advisory Circular,
agree that both methods of securing cotter pins are acceptable.

The textbook refers to the up/down bend as the "preferred" method,
implying that the other way is somehow less-than-preferred. There's no
explanation why.
The AC refers to the sideways bend as an "alternate" method.

I think I'll return to the sideways method on my bike, which leaves the
cotter pins in much better condition to reuse, which you aren't supposed
to do.

Beryl writes:

Christopher Tidy wrote:
Beryl wrote:

Positioning the vise-grip jaws one facet to the left would let the
"leading edge" of the nut (that follows the cut) dig in for a
better bite.

And maybe damage the stud, which I badly needed to avoid!

Chris

I did a crummy job, describing the edge literally digging into the stud!

The way the pliers are positioned in the pic, clamping pressures are
as close to the trailing edge, and far from the leading edge, as they
can be. The split nut is pushed around from behind, tangential force
wanting to lift the rear of the nut off the stud, "unwrapping" it.
Move the clamping pressure close to the leading edge and the nut will
wrap as it's pulled, closing more tightly around the stud.

It's hard for me to imagine this making a significant difference.

A situation where a split "stud" grabs the nut around it...

Think of drum brake shoes. When forced outward, the leading edge of a
shoe wedges tightly against the turning drum. A trailing edge forced
outward isn't very effective.

That isn't how self-energizing brakes generate extra friction --
friction against the drum rotates the shoe assembly forward, and the
front shoe works to push the rear shoe harder against the lining.

Ideally, the whole lining will be pressed against the drum.
--
It's time to try defying gravity

Joe Pfeiffer wrote:

Beryl writes:

Christopher Tidy wrote:
Beryl wrote:

Positioning the vise-grip jaws one facet to the left would let the
"leading edge" of the nut (that follows the cut) dig in for a
better bite.

And maybe damage the stud, which I badly needed to avoid!

Chris
?
? I did a crummy job, describing the edge literally digging into the stud!
?
? The way the pliers are positioned in the pic, clamping pressures are
? as close to the trailing edge, and far from the leading edge, as they
? can be. The split nut is pushed around from behind, tangential force
? wanting to lift the rear of the nut off the stud, "unwrapping" it.
? Move the clamping pressure close to the leading edge and the nut will
? wrap as it's pulled, closing more tightly around the stud.

It's hard for me to imagine this making a significant difference.

? A situation where a split "stud" grabs the nut around it...
?
? Think of drum brake shoes. When forced outward, the leading edge of a
? shoe wedges tightly against the turning drum. A trailing edge forced
? outward isn't very effective.

That isn't how self-energizing brakes generate extra friction --
friction against the drum rotates the shoe assembly forward, and the
front shoe works to push the rear shoe harder against the lining.

Yes, it is the trailing shoe that applies the most force against the
brake drum.

In this case, I think the grip on the nut slipping or the stud snapping
will happen before the nut turns on the threads.

-jim



Ideally, the whole lining will be pressed against the drum.
--
It's time to try defying gravity

Stormin Mormon wrote:
It turned out well.

I wonder if you could have removed the stud with vise grips,
directly on the stud?

No, because it would have damaged the thread.

Chris

jim writes:

Joe Pfeiffer wrote:

Beryl writes:

Christopher Tidy wrote:
Beryl wrote:

Positioning the vise-grip jaws one facet to the left would let the
"leading edge" of the nut (that follows the cut) dig in for a
better bite.

And maybe damage the stud, which I badly needed to avoid!

Chris
?
? I did a crummy job, describing the edge literally digging into the stud!
?
? The way the pliers are positioned in the pic, clamping pressures are
? as close to the trailing edge, and far from the leading edge, as they
? can be. The split nut is pushed around from behind, tangential force
? wanting to lift the rear of the nut off the stud, "unwrapping" it.
? Move the clamping pressure close to the leading edge and the nut will
? wrap as it's pulled, closing more tightly around the stud.

It's hard for me to imagine this making a significant difference.

? A situation where a split "stud" grabs the nut around it...
?
? Think of drum brake shoes. When forced outward, the leading edge of a
? shoe wedges tightly against the turning drum. A trailing edge forced
? outward isn't very effective.

That isn't how self-energizing brakes generate extra friction --
friction against the drum rotates the shoe assembly forward, and the
front shoe works to push the rear shoe harder against the lining.

Yes, it is the trailing shoe that applies the most force against the
brake drum.

Right -- but it isn't because the leading edge is wedged against the
drum.


In this case, I think the grip on the nut slipping or the stud snapping
will happen before the nut turns on the threads.

Agreed.

--
It's time to try defying gravity

Beryl wrote:
Christopher Tidy wrote:
Phil Kangas wrote:

I think the cotter pin on that other nut is installed incorrectly.
Should be turned 90*, so that one leg bends up over the nut, and the
other points down. I never figured out why it makes a difference,
but that's what I learned somewhere.


That cotter pin is in correctly. In this postion it is more resistant
to shearing if the nut is turned somehow in service. And with
the eye protruding it is easier to pull for maintainence.
phil k.

I've seen them installed both ways. But more commonly in the way shown
in my picture.

Chris

An Airframe & Powerplant Mechanics textbook, and FAA Advisory Circular,
agree that both methods of securing cotter pins are acceptable.

The textbook refers to the up/down bend as the "preferred" method,
implying that the other way is somehow less-than-preferred. There's no
explanation why.
The AC refers to the sideways bend as an "alternate" method.

I think I'll return to the sideways method on my bike, which leaves the
cotter pins in much better condition to reuse, which you aren't supposed
to do.


The most important thing on installing cotter pins is that they are
tight and don't wiggle in the hole or twist because it could eventually
causse them to wear.

John

Joe Pfeiffer wrote:
jim writes:

Joe Pfeiffer wrote:
Beryl writes:

Christopher Tidy wrote:
Beryl wrote:

Positioning the vise-grip jaws one facet to the left would let the
"leading edge" of the nut (that follows the cut) dig in for a
better bite.
And maybe damage the stud, which I badly needed to avoid!

Chris
?
? I did a crummy job, describing the edge literally digging into the stud!
?
? The way the pliers are positioned in the pic, clamping pressures are
? as close to the trailing edge, and far from the leading edge, as they
? can be. The split nut is pushed around from behind, tangential force
? wanting to lift the rear of the nut off the stud, "unwrapping" it.
? Move the clamping pressure close to the leading edge and the nut will
? wrap as it's pulled, closing more tightly around the stud.

It's hard for me to imagine this making a significant difference.

A chain wrench, strap wrench, oil filter wrench, pipe wrench, vise-grips
as in the picture, etc., are made to work well in one direction.

? A situation where a split "stud" grabs the nut around it...
?
? Think of drum brake shoes. When forced outward, the leading edge of a
? shoe wedges tightly against the turning drum. A trailing edge forced
? outward isn't very effective.

That isn't how self-energizing brakes generate extra friction --
friction against the drum rotates the shoe assembly forward, and the
front shoe works to push the rear shoe harder against the lining.
Yes, it is the trailing shoe that applies the most force against the
brake drum.

Right -- but it isn't because the leading edge is wedged against the
drum.

I'm thinking of motorcycle front drum brakes, which evolved to
dual-leading shoe designs with two cams, lifting the leading edges of
both shoes.
And then, they had very little stopping power when rolling backward,
which didn't matter anyway. They worked significantly better in one
direction.

In this case, I think the grip on the nut slipping or the stud snapping
will happen before the nut turns on the threads.

Agreed.

I snap the stud, absolutely.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
It turned out well.

I wonder if you could have removed the stud with vise grips,
directly on the stud?

Maybe he could have hammered the stud over into an L shape, and then got
a crescent wrench on it.

Beryl writes:

Joe Pfeiffer wrote:
It's hard for me to imagine this making a significant difference.

A chain wrench, strap wrench, oil filter wrench, pipe wrench,
vise-grips as in the picture, etc., are made to work well in one
direction.

Many of the wrenches you've described -- in fact all but vice-grips --
are indeed designed so that turning in the "right" direction makes them
grip substantially tighter. Not true of vice-grips, and really doesn't
look true of a nut in a clamp (in this case the clamp is the vice-grips,
of course).

? A situation where a split "stud" grabs the nut around it...
?
? Think of drum brake shoes. When forced outward, the leading edge of a
? shoe wedges tightly against the turning drum. A trailing edge forced
? outward isn't very effective.

That isn't how self-energizing brakes generate extra friction --
friction against the drum rotates the shoe assembly forward, and the
front shoe works to push the rear shoe harder against the lining.
Yes, it is the trailing shoe that applies the most force against the
brake drum.

Right -- but it isn't because the leading edge is wedged against the
drum.

I'm thinking of motorcycle front drum brakes, which evolved to
dual-leading shoe designs with two cams, lifting the leading edges of
both shoes.
And then, they had very little stopping power when rolling backward,
which didn't matter anyway. They worked significantly better in one
direction.

Not familiar with motorcycle brakes -- but with automotive brakes, the
brake cylinder pushes the top of both shoes, and the friction of the
front shoe against the drum ends up pushing the bottom of the rear
shoe. It also works substantially better forward than reverse, but
that's not because of any wedging.

In this case, I think the grip on the nut slipping or the stud snapping
will happen before the nut turns on the threads.

Agreed.

I snap the stud, absolutely.

--
It's time to try defying gravity

On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 21:28:34 -0700, Beryl wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
It turned out well.

I wonder if you could have removed the stud with vise grips, directly
on the stud?

Maybe he could have hammered the stud over into an L shape, and then got
a crescent wrench on it.

That would be awfully crude! Easier to get a nice shiny
finish cutting it off flush with an angle grinder, and if
you were careful, wouldn't ding the threads, either.

--
jiw

Joe Pfeiffer wrote:
Beryl writes:
Joe Pfeiffer wrote:
It's hard for me to imagine this making a significant difference.
A chain wrench, strap wrench, oil filter wrench, pipe wrench,
vise-grips as in the picture, etc., are made to work well in one
direction.

Many of the wrenches you've described -- in fact all but vice-grips --
are indeed designed so that turning in the "right" direction makes them
grip substantially tighter. Not true of vice-grips,

Use vise-grips the wrong direction, and they practically fall right off
the fastener and pop open. At least, mine do.
Look at the movable jaw in the picture posted. Turn the tool the correct
way (left) and the jaw is wedged closed, tightening around the nut. Turn
the wrong way, and the jaw is forced open.

and really doesn't look true of a nut in a clamp (in this case the clamp is the vice-grips,
of course).

The nut in this homebrew stud extractor isn't in a clamp, it's the
clamp. It's an extension of the jaws, part of the tool.

And if the nut _still_ turns on the stud, some lapping compound on the
threads could gain the extra bit of friction to make it work.