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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Aluminum countertop
I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't want
to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of "industrial" looking. Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker) sheet aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop. I'd like a brushed, sealed finish and other than getting the pieces sheared, do the top myself. I have a metal fabricator who I'm sure can laser cut the sink etc. Has anyone ever done this? Any help/hints? Hardness? 5052? Thanks |
#2
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Aluminum countertop
On Jan 23, 3:11*pm, mkr5000 wrote:
I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't want to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of "industrial" looking. Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker) sheet aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop. I'd like a brushed, sealed finish and other than getting the pieces sheared, do the top myself. I have a metal fabricator who I'm sure can laser cut the sink etc. Has anyone ever done this? Any help/hints? Hardness? *5052? Thanks I suspect that you will find that aluminum will scratch pretty easy. The first time you try to slide something heavy you may end up with some deep gouges. I have stainless countertops in my shop and it would take a near constant effort to keep them looking good-if I was so inclined. Have you consided cement? I've seen some nice cement kitchen counter tops. |
#3
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Aluminum countertop
"mkr5000" wrote in message
... I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't want to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of "industrial" looking. Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker) sheet aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop. I'd like a brushed, sealed finish and other than getting the pieces sheared, do the top myself. I have a metal fabricator who I'm sure can laser cut the sink etc. Has anyone ever done this? Any help/hints? Hardness? 5052? 5052 is fairly corrosion resistant so it would probably "ok" for a work counter top. Brushed and sealed? Maybe clear anodized. 1/4" would be way overkill. .100 if supported under the main surface would be more than adequate. If you have the front edge rolled and the back bent up and back for a backsplash it would almsot be self supporting depending on length. I think I would pass if you meant for a kitchen countertop. If just brushed aluminum then it it would constantly get scratched, and I am not really sure if hard anodized would be a lot better. I have a mini mill with a hard anodized table and it holds up ok, but it does scratch and a cutter goes through it like butter. I like stainless for counter tops. Its harder to work with, but will last longer than you will live. |
#4
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Aluminum countertop
Yeah -- a kitchen countertop but it doesn't sound like a good idea.
I've seen a little on concrete, may look into it. Tile, epoxy paints, I've seen it all but really would like a metal look -- at lowest cost. |
#5
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Aluminum countertop
"mkr5000" wrote in message ... Yeah -- a kitchen countertop but it doesn't sound like a good idea. I've seen a little on concrete, may look into it. Tile, epoxy paints, I've seen it all but really would like a metal look -- at lowest cost. How about stainless steel tiles? http://metalwalltiles.net/stainlesssteeltile.aspx |
#6
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Aluminum countertop
On Jan 23, 4:51*pm, mkr5000 wrote:
Yeah -- a kitchen countertop but it doesn't sound like a good idea. On one Army base the kitchen sink counter was galvanized steel. The zinc had long since worn away, but Army coffee removed the rust that formed during cleanup. If I quickly wiped it dry it stayed shiny until the next meal. Temporarily cover your existing counter with a sheet of aluminum and see how it wears. I have a stainless plate on the counter for hot pots. The finish has become random fine scratches. jsw |
#7
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Aluminum countertop
mkr5000 wrote:
Yeah -- a kitchen countertop but it doesn't sound like a good idea. I've seen a little on concrete, may look into it. Tile, epoxy paints, I've seen it all but really would like a metal look -- at lowest cost. Have you looked into available colors of laminates? They might have something that has a metallic look, but holds up like laminate. (Formica, etc.) Personally, if I won the lottery, I'd go for butcherblock. ;-) Good Luck! Rich |
#8
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Aluminum countertop
"Gerry" wrote in message ... On Jan 23, 3:11 pm, mkr5000 wrote: I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't want to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of "industrial" looking. Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker) sheet aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop. I'd like a brushed, sealed finish and other than getting the pieces sheared, do the top myself. I have a metal fabricator who I'm sure can laser cut the sink etc. Has anyone ever done this? Any help/hints? Hardness? 5052? Thanks I suspect that you will find that aluminum will scratch pretty easy. The first time you try to slide something heavy you may end up with some deep gouges. I have stainless countertops in my shop and it would take a near constant effort to keep them looking good-if I was so inclined. Have you consided cement? I've seen some nice cement kitchen counter tops. I'll second the notion of cementious countertops. There is more than one book devoted to the topic and the array of possibilities is not piffling. If you consider the metal tile or plate idea elsewhere suggested in the thread, spend your money on Spectralock epoxy grout. Price comparison with the regular stuff will make you cringe. The durable result will make you prudently satisfied. Regards, Edward Hennessey |
#9
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Aluminum countertop
mkr5000 wrote:
I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't want to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of "industrial" looking. Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker) sheet aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop. It might work for you. If you have any cookware with aluminum bottoms and you slide it across the aluminum countertop expect an ugly mess. AL against AL is never good. |
#10
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Aluminum countertop
I read about the spectralock grout -- if I tile definetly will use it.
If I use stainless steel tiles (source?) can I install edge to edge without grout? Also, someone mentioned HARD anodize. What about that? I guess there must be a durability difference in anodize coatings? I may just play with a 2 x 4 sheet of 1/8" 5052 -- brush it (and take it to the anodizer as well). |
#11
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Aluminum countertop
Jim Stewart wrote:
mkr5000 wrote: I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't want to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of "industrial" looking. Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker) sheet aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop. It might work for you. If you have any cookware with aluminum bottoms and you slide it across the aluminum countertop expect an ugly mess. AL against AL is never good. Just make sure the countertop has a nice coating of lard. ;-) Cheers! Rich |
#12
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Aluminum countertop
mkr5000 wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Mon, 24 Jan 2011 11:47:31 -0800 (PST): Also, someone mentioned HARD anodize. What about that? Similar to regular anodizing, but thicker, and will have a brown or greenish color. It can be dyed darker colors. It's the new thing in cookware. You can have a look at wal-mart and see it on frying pans. As others have said it's brittle. If it flexes too much it will crack. -- Dan H. northshore MA. |
#13
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Aluminum countertop
"mkr5000" wrote in message
... I read about the spectralock grout -- if I tile definetly will use it. If I use stainless steel tiles (source?) can I install edge to edge without grout? Also, someone mentioned HARD anodize. What about that? I guess there must be a durability difference in anodize coatings? I may just play with a 2 x 4 sheet of 1/8" 5052 -- brush it (and take it to the anodizer as well). Reply: Costco had an aluminum patio table this week in the local store. Maybe look at that and see how the top handles some Costco pots. |
#14
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Aluminum countertop
John R. Carroll wrote:
Ned Simmons wrote: On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 11:50:29 -0800, "John R. Carroll" mkr5000 wrote: I read about the spectralock grout -- if I tile definetly will use it. If I use stainless steel tiles (source?) can I install edge to edge without grout? Also, someone mentioned HARD anodize. Hard Ano is so hard you can't scratch it with a carbide end mill and isn't electrically conductive. It's also pretty cheap to have a professional do it. But it will crack if the substrate gets deformed, so you'd want to make the sheet thick enough that it won't dent when it takes a hit. Well, he was talking about quarter inch material. In any case, 0.060" will resist anything a cooktop is subject to. Hey! Diamond plate would be kewl! Cheers! Rich |
#15
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Aluminum countertop
"Rich Grise" wrote in message ... John R. Carroll wrote: Ned Simmons wrote: On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 11:50:29 -0800, "John R. Carroll" mkr5000 wrote: I read about the spectralock grout -- if I tile definetly will use it. If I use stainless steel tiles (source?) can I install edge to edge without grout? Also, someone mentioned HARD anodize. Hard Ano is so hard you can't scratch it with a carbide end mill and isn't electrically conductive. It's also pretty cheap to have a professional do it. But it will crack if the substrate gets deformed, so you'd want to make the sheet thick enough that it won't dent when it takes a hit. Well, he was talking about quarter inch material. In any case, 0.060" will resist anything a cooktop is subject to. Hey! Diamond plate would be kewl! Cheers! Rich i was looking at kitchen tiles yesterday. There are a heap of different stainless steel tiles for kitchens. Neat but expensive! Like this: http://www.stainlessliving.com/tile.asp |
#16
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Aluminum countertop
Think I'm starting to gear toward concrete -- done enough concrete
work myself that it looks pretty straightforward -- may start with a form to "play with". And you know, it just hit me, I wonder if I may be able to do something unique with concrete pavers? ( ! ) They're 24" and even larger -- mortar between then? It's a thought anyway. |
#17
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concrete countertop
mkr5000 wrote:
Think I'm starting to gear toward concrete -- done enough concrete work myself that it looks pretty straightforward -- may start with a form to "play with". And you know, it just hit me, I wonder if I may be able to do something unique with concrete pavers? ( ! ) They're 24" and even larger -- mortar between then? It's a thought anyway. use melamine, and form them upside down. you'll get a much smoother and flatter surface. you can polish them easily with an alpha side grinder with diamond pads (get at granite tool places (i use http://defusco.com for tools of this ilk)). start about day 5 before they harden up too much. you'll also need a concrete vibrator to get good results (rent this). i used glass cullet for the concrete aggregate and embedded slices of different polished rocks in the surface and edges. regards, charlie phx, az |
#18
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Aluminum countertop
"mkr5000" wrote in message
... Think I'm starting to gear toward concrete -- done enough concrete work myself that it looks pretty straightforward -- may start with a form to "play with". And you know, it just hit me, I wonder if I may be able to do something unique with concrete pavers? ( ! ) They're 24" and even larger -- mortar between then? It's a thought anyway. Reply: Local granite place will supply counter top at $45 a linear foot. And they had some close out pieces that were maybe $180 and 10' long. Check out the counter top suppliers. |
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