I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't want
to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of
"industrial" looking.

Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker) sheet
aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop.

I'd like a brushed, sealed finish and other than getting the pieces
sheared, do the top myself.

I have a metal fabricator who I'm sure can laser cut the sink etc.

Has anyone ever done this?

Any help/hints?

Hardness? 5052?

Thanks

On Jan 23, 3:11*pm, mkr5000 wrote:
I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't want
to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of
"industrial" looking.

Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker) sheet
aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop.

I'd like a brushed, sealed finish and other than getting the pieces
sheared, do the top myself.

I have a metal fabricator who I'm sure can laser cut the sink etc.

Has anyone ever done this?

Any help/hints?

Hardness? *5052?

Thanks

I suspect that you will find that aluminum will scratch pretty easy.
The first time you try to slide something heavy you may end up with
some deep gouges. I have stainless countertops in my shop and it would
take a near constant effort to keep them looking good-if I was so
inclined. Have you consided cement? I've seen some nice cement kitchen
counter tops.

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't want
to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of
"industrial" looking.

Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker) sheet
aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop.

I'd like a brushed, sealed finish and other than getting the pieces
sheared, do the top myself.

I have a metal fabricator who I'm sure can laser cut the sink etc.

Has anyone ever done this?

Any help/hints?

Hardness? 5052?

5052 is fairly corrosion resistant so it would probably "ok" for a work
counter top. Brushed and sealed? Maybe clear anodized. 1/4" would be way
overkill. .100 if supported under the main surface would be more than
adequate. If you have the front edge rolled and the back bent up and back
for a backsplash it would almsot be self supporting depending on length.

I think I would pass if you meant for a kitchen countertop. If just brushed
aluminum then it it would constantly get scratched, and I am not really sure
if hard anodized would be a lot better. I have a mini mill with a hard
anodized table and it holds up ok, but it does scratch and a cutter goes
through it like butter.

I like stainless for counter tops. Its harder to work with, but will last
longer than you will live.

Yeah -- a kitchen countertop but it doesn't sound like a good idea.

I've seen a little on concrete, may look into it.

Tile, epoxy paints, I've seen it all but really would like a metal
look -- at lowest cost.

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...
Yeah -- a kitchen countertop but it doesn't sound like a good idea.

I've seen a little on concrete, may look into it.

Tile, epoxy paints, I've seen it all but really would like a metal
look -- at lowest cost.

How about stainless steel tiles?
http://metalwalltiles.net/stainlesssteeltile.aspx

On Jan 23, 4:51*pm, mkr5000 wrote:
Yeah -- a kitchen countertop but it doesn't sound like a good idea.


On one Army base the kitchen sink counter was galvanized steel. The
zinc had long since worn away, but Army coffee removed the rust that
formed during cleanup. If I quickly wiped it dry it stayed shiny until
the next meal.

Temporarily cover your existing counter with a sheet of aluminum and
see how it wears. I have a stainless plate on the counter for hot
pots. The finish has become random fine scratches.

jsw

mkr5000 wrote:

Yeah -- a kitchen countertop but it doesn't sound like a good idea.

I've seen a little on concrete, may look into it.

Tile, epoxy paints, I've seen it all but really would like a metal
look -- at lowest cost.

Have you looked into available colors of laminates? They might have
something that has a metallic look, but holds up like laminate. (Formica,
etc.)

Personally, if I won the lottery, I'd go for butcherblock. ;-)

Good Luck!
Rich

"Gerry" wrote in message
...
On Jan 23, 3:11 pm, mkr5000 wrote:
I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't
want
to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of
"industrial" looking.

Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker)
sheet
aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop.

I'd like a brushed, sealed finish and other than getting the pieces
sheared, do the top myself.

I have a metal fabricator who I'm sure can laser cut the sink etc.

Has anyone ever done this?

Any help/hints?

Hardness? 5052?

Thanks

I suspect that you will find that aluminum will scratch pretty easy.
The first time you try to slide something heavy you may end up with
some deep gouges. I have stainless countertops in my shop and it would
take a near constant effort to keep them looking good-if I was so
inclined. Have you consided cement? I've seen some nice cement kitchen
counter tops.

I'll second the notion of cementious countertops. There is more than
one
book devoted to the topic and the array of possibilities is not
piffling.

If you consider the metal tile or plate idea elsewhere suggested in
the thread,
spend your money on Spectralock epoxy grout. Price comparison with
the regular stuff will make you cringe. The durable result will make
you
prudently satisfied.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

mkr5000 wrote:
I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't want
to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of
"industrial" looking.

Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker) sheet
aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop.

It might work for you.

If you have any cookware with aluminum bottoms
and you slide it across the aluminum countertop
expect an ugly mess.

AL against AL is never good.

I read about the spectralock grout -- if I tile definetly will use it.
If I use stainless steel tiles (source?) can I install edge to edge
without grout?

Also, someone mentioned HARD anodize.

What about that?

I guess there must be a durability difference in anodize coatings?

I may just play with a 2 x 4 sheet of 1/8" 5052 -- brush it (and take
it to the anodizer as well).

Jim Stewart wrote:
mkr5000 wrote:
I'm determined to do something unique for a countertop and don't want
to spend the money on stainless steel and I want something sort of
"industrial" looking.

Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that 1/4" thick (or thicker) sheet
aluminum has some possibilities for a countertop.

It might work for you.

If you have any cookware with aluminum bottoms
and you slide it across the aluminum countertop
expect an ugly mess.

AL against AL is never good.

Just make sure the countertop has a nice coating of lard. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

mkr5000 wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Mon, 24 Jan 2011 11:47:31 -0800 (PST):


Also, someone mentioned HARD anodize.

What about that?

Similar to regular anodizing, but thicker, and will have a brown or
greenish color. It can be dyed darker colors. It's the new thing in
cookware. You can have a look at wal-mart and see it on frying pans.
As others have said it's brittle. If it flexes too much it will
crack.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...

I read about the spectralock grout -- if I tile definetly will use it.
If I use stainless steel tiles (source?) can I install edge to edge
without grout?

Also, someone mentioned HARD anodize.

What about that?

I guess there must be a durability difference in anodize coatings?

I may just play with a 2 x 4 sheet of 1/8" 5052 -- brush it (and take
it to the anodizer as well).


Reply:
Costco had an aluminum patio table this week in the local store. Maybe look
at that and see how the top handles some Costco pots.

John R. Carroll wrote:
Ned Simmons wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 11:50:29 -0800, "John R. Carroll"
mkr5000 wrote:
I read about the spectralock grout -- if I tile definetly will use
it. If I use stainless steel tiles (source?) can I install edge to
edge without grout?

Also, someone mentioned HARD anodize.

Hard Ano is so hard you can't scratch it with a carbide end mill and
isn't electrically conductive.
It's also pretty cheap to have a professional do it.

But it will crack if the substrate gets deformed, so you'd want to
make the sheet thick enough that it won't dent when it takes a hit.

Well, he was talking about quarter inch material.
In any case, 0.060" will resist anything a cooktop is subject to.

Hey! Diamond plate would be kewl!

Cheers!
Rich

"Rich Grise" wrote in message
...
John R. Carroll wrote:
Ned Simmons wrote:
On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 11:50:29 -0800, "John R. Carroll"
mkr5000 wrote:
I read about the spectralock grout -- if I tile definetly will use
it. If I use stainless steel tiles (source?) can I install edge to
edge without grout?

Also, someone mentioned HARD anodize.

Hard Ano is so hard you can't scratch it with a carbide end mill and
isn't electrically conductive.
It's also pretty cheap to have a professional do it.

But it will crack if the substrate gets deformed, so you'd want to
make the sheet thick enough that it won't dent when it takes a hit.

Well, he was talking about quarter inch material.
In any case, 0.060" will resist anything a cooktop is subject to.

Hey! Diamond plate would be kewl!

Cheers!
Rich


i was looking at kitchen tiles yesterday. There are a heap of different
stainless steel tiles for kitchens. Neat but expensive!

Like this:

http://www.stainlessliving.com/tile.asp

Think I'm starting to gear toward concrete -- done enough concrete
work myself that it looks pretty straightforward -- may start with a
form to "play with". And you know, it just hit me, I wonder if I may
be able to do something unique with concrete pavers? ( ! ) They're
24" and even larger -- mortar between then?

It's a thought anyway.

mkr5000 wrote:
Think I'm starting to gear toward concrete -- done enough concrete
work myself that it looks pretty straightforward -- may start with a
form to "play with". And you know, it just hit me, I wonder if I may
be able to do something unique with concrete pavers? ( ! ) They're
24" and even larger -- mortar between then?

It's a thought anyway.

use melamine, and form them upside down. you'll get a much smoother and
flatter surface.

you can polish them easily with an alpha side grinder with diamond pads (get
at granite tool places (i use http://defusco.com for tools of this ilk)).
start about day 5 before they harden up too much. you'll also need a
concrete vibrator to get good results (rent this).

i used glass cullet for the concrete aggregate and embedded slices of
different polished rocks in the surface and edges.

regards,
charlie
phx, az

"mkr5000" wrote in message
...

Think I'm starting to gear toward concrete -- done enough concrete
work myself that it looks pretty straightforward -- may start with a
form to "play with". And you know, it just hit me, I wonder if I may
be able to do something unique with concrete pavers? ( ! ) They're
24" and even larger -- mortar between then?

It's a thought anyway.


Reply:
Local granite place will supply counter top at $45 a linear foot. And they
had some close out pieces that were maybe $180 and 10' long. Check out the
counter top suppliers.