I'm going over to Africa shortly to work on a project there.

I've been there before. Most of our small devices such as battery chargers,
etc. all say clearly that they will run on 110V OR 220V sources so we
generally have no problems. However... I now have around 30 small devices
to plug in nightly and only two receptacles at our location.

I haven't found a power strip that is rated for 110/220V yet - and even
simple splitters aren't rated for that.

I *think* a simple splitter (no surge protection, etc) should work but I'm
curious if anyone has done such a thing? It's all about the wiring inside
and these things are generally solid blocks of formed plastic with
electrical connectors inside...

Thoughts? Solutions? Random chastisements?

The reason this is somewhat on topic is because we will be over there
rebuilding a small village medical center. Our infrastructure is a steel
shipping container that we have acquired. It will be modified to become a
building of sorts. I'll also be gathering a water sample to test as their
water there seems to have a strange issue. It comes out clear but within a
little while, turns red in color. ...So while they do have a well, they
don't have fresh water yet.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

"Joe AutoDrill" fired this volley in
:

I'll also be gathering a water sample to test as their
water there seems to have a strange issue. It comes out clear but
within a little while, turns red in color. ...So while they do have a
well, they don't have fresh water yet.

Certain iron/sulfur chemistries do weird-looking things when well water
is exposed to oxygen.

When untreated, my well water does this: If it's gently drawn down the
side of the container with no splashing, all you see is clear water, with
a sulfury smell.

If you splash it violently or aerate it while filling (like with a spray
nozzle on a hose) it comes out clear, stays that way for a few moments,
then turns a dingy blackish grey -- almost like it's been inked, or a
small amount of black latex paint had been added. Within 45 minutes, it
again turns clear, and almost all of the sulfur smell is gone.

Our water lab said it's simply and iron/sulfur reaction that is caused by
changes in the amount of hydrogen sulfide gas as the aerated water "boils
off" its H2S load.

When I lived up on a limestone ridge in central Florida, we had heavy
iron and calcium in our water, and it would turn a flocculent red in the
toilets after exposure to air.

LLoyd

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

I'm going over to Africa shortly to work on a project there.

I've been there before. Most of our small devices such as battery chargers,
etc. all say clearly that they will run on 110V OR 220V sources so we
generally have no problems. However... I now have around 30 small devices
to plug in nightly and only two receptacles at our location.

I haven't found a power strip that is rated for 110/220V yet - and even
simple splitters aren't rated for that.

I *think* a simple splitter (no surge protection, etc) should work but I'm
curious if anyone has done such a thing? It's all about the wiring inside
and these things are generally solid blocks of formed plastic with
electrical connectors inside...

Thoughts? Solutions? Random chastisements?

The only 240V rated power strips you will find will also have 220V
receptacles, so you'd need plug adapters for everything. When I went to
Egypt (north Africa) I just brought a normal non surge suppresser power
strip and used a plug adapter on it. Everything I had to plug in was
100-240V auto ranging, so no issues there. I did test the power strip on
240V at home for a couple days before the trip to ensure no issues.

If you have 30 devices to plug in, it would probably be worthwhile to
build up a dedicated power strip bank into a nice Pelican case with a
single power cord out of it, and perhaps a voltmeter included to monitor
power quality.

It would also be worthwhile to consolidate the wall warts and line lumps
where possible, i.e. chop the power cords off all your 12VDC output
supplies and wire them to a single 12VDC supply rated for the aggregate
load of all the original supplies. Digi-Key has a huge selection of
supplies to chose from for such a consolidation. I've done this type of
consolidation many times with no issues. One supply for all 12VDC loads,
one for all 5VDC loads, etc. Do the math and you may be able to find a
multi-output supply on Digi-Key that can service all the loads.

BTW, I'm a *big* fan of Pelican 1510 cases with the photo lid organizer
add on. They are max airline carry-on size and basically indestructible
so you can put all your expensive gear in them and keep them under your
direct control at all times. People can slam the case around in the
overhead all they want it it won't hurt it.

On Tue, 4 Jan 2011 10:49:14 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

I'm going over to Africa shortly to work on a project there.

I've been there before. Most of our small devices such as battery chargers,
etc. all say clearly that they will run on 110V OR 220V sources so we
generally have no problems. However... I now have around 30 small devices
to plug in nightly and only two receptacles at our location.

I haven't found a power strip that is rated for 110/220V yet - and even
simple splitters aren't rated for that.

I *think* a simple splitter (no surge protection, etc) should work but I'm
curious if anyone has done such a thing? It's all about the wiring inside
and these things are generally solid blocks of formed plastic with
electrical connectors inside...

Thoughts? Solutions? Random chastisements?

I don't know about Africa. In China I would go into a store and shell
out the Y50 or whatever to buy a 240V power strip (they have the dual
outlets that accept the two-round-pin or the dual blade (without
ground)). But there would still be a problem with the laptop chargers
and other items that have grounds.

As to what's available here.. I just opened up a good quality
(Wiremold brand) power strip to have look-see. As you'd expect, the
female 'connectors' are just bent strips of brass held in the molded
housing. The bits of insulated wire are rated at 600V. That part will
be fine. What would not be is the switch, which is rated at 120VAC and
has a neon with a resistor suited for 120VAC. It will die quickly and
may get very hot. The circuit breaker is also rated at 120VAC, so it
won't be safe at 240V. That said, the thing _probably_ won't catch
fire unless you overload it, so for AC adapters and so on (not hair
dryers or other stuff that might tempt the CB to trip) it will
_probably_ not kill you right away.

It should go without saying that if you plug in a 120VAC surge
suppressor-equipped strip into 240VAC you will have fireworks and bad
smells as the Metal Oxide Varistor cooks.

Maybe you'd be best to buy the strip over there and have enough plug
adapters on hand to fit into whatever sockets they use in that
country?


The reason this is somewhat on topic is because we will be over there
rebuilding a small village medical center. Our infrastructure is a steel
shipping container that we have acquired. It will be modified to become a
building of sorts. I'll also be gathering a water sample to test as their
water there seems to have a strange issue. It comes out clear but within a
little while, turns red in color. ...So while they do have a well, they
don't have fresh water yet.

Sounds interesting. Is this an aid thing or business related?


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

On Jan 4, 3:49*pm, "Joe AutoDrill" wrote:
I'm going over to Africa shortly to work on a project there.

I've been there before. Most of our small devices such as battery chargers,
etc. all say clearly that they will run on 110V OR 220V sources so we
generally have no problems. *However... *I now have around 30 small devices
to plug in nightly and only two receptacles at our location.

I haven't found a power strip that is rated for 110/220V yet - and even
simple splitters aren't rated for that.

I *think* a simple splitter (no surge protection, etc) should work but I'm
curious if anyone has done such a thing? *It's all about the wiring inside
and these things are generally solid blocks of formed plastic with
electrical connectors inside...

Thoughts? *Solutions? *Random chastisements?

Can you use a transformer to get 110V?
Here in UK our mains is 240V but most construction sites use 110V
tools supplied from centre tapped transformers like these
http://www.knighton-tools.co.uk/acat...nsformers.html
The centre tapping means the highest voltage is 55 to earth so is much
safer.
The transformers are readily available and come in various outputs but
they're heavy. Depends what VA you need.

John

Sounds interesting. Is this an aid thing or business related?

At the moment, it is an aid thing... www.LifeForGhana.com is our site if it
matters and I have links to all my personal photos on Facebook if anyone
wants to see them again. (posted them last year)

There is a TON of opportunity there for business though so my eyes and ears
will be wide open when I go back this second time.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

I suggest that you purchase a couple of 220/110 step-down transformers for
an additional level of line isolation safety protection, and then just use
ordinary 120VAC power strips.
This will simplify the power supply for everyone that's accustomed to 120VAC
equipment.

You can likely find a couple of the S-D-T units with on/off switches and
circuit breaker protected outputs, to avoid needing any fuses, or the
temptation to use improvised material for a fuse.

Some of the Chinese/India electrical products are very low quality, so shop
around here in the U.S. for some decent quality components.. durable, earth
grounded, metal-cased power strips, etc are available if that suits you.
I sometimes use 2 pieces of 3-blade to 2-blade polarized adapters (as
risers) stacked together in power strips where a couple of 2-blade wall
warts or sideways-type power adapters/chargers make utilization of the full
number of receptacles impossible (very low power consumption devices only).

Domestic U.S. electrical devices are typically designed with at least a
600VAC insulation rating.
When you compare the insides of a 120V plug compared to a 240V plug, for
example, the 240V contacts aren't separated by 2x the space.
The established NEMA standards designate the specific pattern and
orientation of plug blades to prevent 120V equipment from being plugged into
240V receptacles, and similar screwups such as 50A load into a 20A supply.
Our 600VAC rated cable is used with both 120 and 240VAC circuits and power
cords.

Using NEMA-designated 120V components with higher voltages would be
hazardous and confusing, so it shouldn't be attempted.
I'm not saying that this was what you were suggesting, I just wanted to
include that statement to clarify that I wasn't suggesting it either.

--
WB
..........


"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
...
I'm going over to Africa shortly to work on a project there.

I've been there before. Most of our small devices such as battery
chargers, etc. all say clearly that they will run on 110V OR 220V sources
so we generally have no problems. However... I now have around 30 small
devices to plug in nightly and only two receptacles at our location.

I haven't found a power strip that is rated for 110/220V yet - and even
simple splitters aren't rated for that.

I *think* a simple splitter (no surge protection, etc) should work but I'm
curious if anyone has done such a thing? It's all about the wiring inside
and these things are generally solid blocks of formed plastic with
electrical connectors inside...

Thoughts? Solutions? Random chastisements?

The reason this is somewhat on topic is because we will be over there
rebuilding a small village medical center. Our infrastructure is a steel
shipping container that we have acquired. It will be modified to become a
building of sorts. I'll also be gathering a water sample to test as their
water there seems to have a strange issue. It comes out clear but within
a little while, turns red in color. ...So while they do have a well, they
don't have fresh water yet.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
I suggest that you purchase a couple of 220/110 step-down transformers for
an additional level of line isolation safety protection, and then just use
ordinary 120VAC power strips.

Would love to do that... but we have a limited amount of time and space
left...

Really, all I'm looking for are a few "recepticle multipliers" so...

Worst case scenario is that we share the plugs creatively. It's super rural
Africa during the day, but european hostel-like at night so I'm guessing we
can find a way.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

I'm going over to Africa shortly to work on a project there.

I've been there before. Most of our small devices such as battery
chargers, etc. all say clearly that they will run on 110V OR 220V sources
so we
generally have no problems. However... I now have around 30 small
devices to plug in nightly and only two receptacles at our location.

_THIRTY_ devices? What the hexx are they?

Thanks,
Rich

On 1/4/2011 9:18 AM, Joe AutoDrill wrote:

At the moment, it is an aid thing... www.LifeForGhana.com is our site if it
matters and I have links to all my personal photos on Facebook if anyone
wants to see them again. (posted them last year)


Take a look at the albums folks. Joe is involved in a really good thing
here. I think what shocked me most was the hospital's emergency room
kit. In many respects, I have far more first aid stuff here in my garage
than that ER has.

There was a couple pictures of a bicycle mechanic, caption stated
something to the effect that his biggest desire was a pair of visegrip
pliers. That one hit home. I boxed up a visegrip and a handful of other
assorted wrenches and bicycle specific tools and shipped them off to the
group that is sending supplies over, with a printed picture of this guy
and a request that he get the tools.

Really, these people are so poor, it takes next to nothing by our
standards to make a big difference in their lives. And they're not
looking for an ongoing handout, they just want a helping hand so they
can help themselves. A worthy cause.


Jon

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
I suggest that you purchase a couple of 220/110 step-down transformers for
an additional level of line isolation safety protection, and then just use
ordinary 120VAC power strips.

Would love to do that... but we have a limited amount of time and space
left...

Really, all I'm looking for are a few "recepticle multipliers" so...

Worst case scenario is that we share the plugs creatively. It's super rural
Africa during the day, but european hostel-like at night so I'm guessing we
can find a way.

Did you read my suggestion about consolidating the devices? That is the
most viable way to limit space and weight, and will generally give you a
more reliable industrial power supply to replace a myriad of consumer
wall warts and line lumps. You could easily package such a consolidated
power package into a mid sized Pelican case and that power supply could
be equipped with the native 240V plug properly. Putting such a package
together should cost ~$200-$250 including the case.

On Tue, 4 Jan 2011 12:46:03 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
I suggest that you purchase a couple of 220/110 step-down transformers for
an additional level of line isolation safety protection, and then just use
ordinary 120VAC power strips.

Would love to do that... but we have a limited amount of time and space
left...

As you said, most stuff nowadays doesn't need voltage adaptors, just
plug adapters. Even (good) desktop PCs don't have switches any more,
which I would think is related to the power factor correction
functionality. One thing that can help consolidate is to bring an
AC-USB adapter with multiple ports, which can be used for charging
all sorts of devices such as cell phones and MP3 players.

Here's one that comes with the plug adapters and has 4 'outlets':

http://www.amazon.com/Lenmar-ACUSB4-...66384&sr =1-2

Really, all I'm looking for are a few "recepticle multipliers" so...

Worst case scenario is that we share the plugs creatively. It's super rural
Africa during the day, but european hostel-like at night so I'm guessing we
can find a way.

Hopefully that's the biggest problem you run into.

Jon Anderson wrote:
On 1/4/2011 9:18 AM, Joe AutoDrill wrote:

At the moment, it is an aid thing... www.LifeForGhana.com is our site if
it matters and I have links to all my personal photos on Facebook if
anyone wants to see them again. (posted them last year)

Take a look at the albums folks. Joe is involved in a really good thing
here. I think what shocked me most was the hospital's emergency room
kit. In many respects, I have far more first aid stuff here in my garage
than that ER has.

There was a couple pictures of a bicycle mechanic, caption stated
something to the effect that his biggest desire was a pair of visegrip
pliers. That one hit home. I boxed up a visegrip and a handful of other
assorted wrenches and bicycle specific tools and shipped them off to the
group that is sending supplies over, with a printed picture of this guy
and a request that he get the tools.

Really, these people are so poor, it takes next to nothing by our
standards to make a big difference in their lives. And they're not
looking for an ongoing handout, they just want a helping hand so they
can help themselves. A worthy cause.

FWIW, I'm a homeless bum, and I'm better off than most people in the world.
Every time I catch myself about to feel sorry for myself, I think of Haiti.

Isn't America pretty much the only country in the world that has obese poor
people?

Thanks,
Rich

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
I suggest that you purchase a couple of 220/110 step-down transformers for
an additional level of line isolation safety protection, and then just use
ordinary 120VAC power strips.

Would love to do that... but we have a limited amount of time and space
left...

Really, all I'm looking for are a few "recepticle multipliers" so...

Worst case scenario is that we share the plugs creatively. It's super
rural Africa during the day, but european hostel-like at night so I'm
guessing we can find a way.

But what _ARE_ these "thirty devices?" Why do you need so much high-tech
in Africa, for heaven's sakes?

Thanks,
Rich

"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
...
I'm going over to Africa shortly to work on a project there.

I've been there before. Most of our small devices such as battery
chargers, etc. all say clearly that they will run on 110V OR 220V sources
so we generally have no problems. However... I now have around 30 small
devices to plug in nightly and only two receptacles at our location.

I haven't found a power strip that is rated for 110/220V yet - and even
simple splitters aren't rated for that.

I *think* a simple splitter (no surge protection, etc) should work but I'm
curious if anyone has done such a thing? It's all about the wiring inside
and these things are generally solid blocks of formed plastic with
electrical connectors inside...

Thoughts? Solutions? Random chastisements?

The reason this is somewhat on topic is because we will be over there
rebuilding a small village medical center. Our infrastructure is a steel
shipping container that we have acquired. It will be modified to become a
building of sorts. I'll also be gathering a water sample to test as their
water there seems to have a strange issue. It comes out clear but within
a little while, turns red in color. ...So while they do have a well, they
don't have fresh water yet.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.


I don't know the situation regarding shipping, fuel availability, etc...
but NorthernTool had 1000w generators on sale for $129 last time I was
there. For that much, you could just leave it when you leave. They run 5
hours on a gallon of gas.
For $300 they also had a 900w inverter based generator that's supposed
to be good for powering electronic devices, that run 4 hours on a half
gallon.

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
.... their
water there seems to have a strange issue. It comes out clear but within a
little while, turns red in color. ...

Is it really red, or more orange? Our water has "clear water iron"`
which is clear (duh) until exposed to oxygen & the iron turns to rust.
And then settles - it is actually particulate, not molecular. We remove
it because of the staining, but it is perfectly safe.

Bob

"Rich Grise" wrote in message
...
Joe AutoDrill wrote:

I'm going over to Africa shortly to work on a project there.

I've been there before. Most of our small devices such as battery
chargers, etc. all say clearly that they will run on 110V OR 220V sources
so we
generally have no problems. However... I now have around 30 small
devices to plug in nightly and only two receptacles at our location.

_THIRTY_ devices? What the hexx are they?

Battery chargers for phones, video and digital cameras, three laptops, etc.
13 people. Going for a week to work and document every moment possible for
a 20-30 person trip this summer plus additional trips going forward.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

Take a look at the albums folks. Joe is involved in a really good thing
here. I think what shocked me most was the hospital's emergency room kit.
In many respects, I have far more first aid stuff here in my garage than
that ER has.

CLIP

Thanks Jon!

I hope to get an updated picture for you of the bicycle "repair shop" and
his tools this time BTW... We are actually doing a bicycle repair workshop
while there because we brought over 100+ bikes in May to allow the kids to
get to and from school... And the repair shop can't keep up now.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

Did you read my suggestion about consolidating the devices? That is the
most viable way to limit space and weight, and will generally give you a
more reliable industrial power supply to replace a myriad of consumer
wall warts and line lumps. You could easily package such a consolidated
power package into a mid sized Pelican case and that power supply could
be equipped with the native 240V plug properly. Putting such a package
together should cost ~$200-$250 including the case.


It's an excellent idea and one I have in my "to do" file... but time is of
the essence right now (leaving very soon!) and the finances are tight as we
are bringing enough educational materials for a week's worth of "classes"
for around 200 kids. That and a small construction project will make our
luggage a "pick and choose what is most important" issue already.

....But I plan on doing something like that and shipping it in the next
overseas container.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

But what _ARE_ these "thirty devices?" Why do you need so much high-tech
in Africa, for heaven's sakes?

About 1/3 of it is for communication. We are a team of 13 splitting up
across a relatively wide area in the middle of *nowhere*. No plumbing,
electrical service, fresh water or even farming... Just some seriously
desperate people with a school house that is worse off than any condemned
building I've been in.

We travel back to a hostel-like place at night to recharge our communication
devices (phones, small radios) as well as video and digital camera batteries
and a laptop or two for archiving the info, photos and for communication
with the US for our team members.

Only three people out of the 13 have been to Africa and I'm the least
experienced of the three with *one* previous visit to the village. ...It's
about making these volunteers as effective as possible so they can come back
and share the vision, help it grow, etc. Mostly, the electronic equipment
will benefit us by recording the educational shortfalls, interviews of the
kids and teachers talking about their lives, etc. ...Footage that will be
used in local schools here in NJ and VA as well as by our organization for
future event promo.

It's complicated, but well thought out for the most part.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

Is it really red, or more orange? Our water has "clear water iron"` which
is clear (duh) until exposed to oxygen & the iron turns to rust. And then
settles - it is actually particulate, not molecular. We remove it because
of the staining, but it is perfectly safe.


Bob,

I hope to find that out when I get there. Unfortunately, I was unable to
access the well the last time I was there.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

Did you read my suggestion about consolidating the devices? That is the
most viable way to limit space and weight, and will generally give you a
more reliable industrial power supply to replace a myriad of consumer
wall warts and line lumps. You could easily package such a consolidated
power package into a mid sized Pelican case and that power supply could
be equipped with the native 240V plug properly. Putting such a package
together should cost ~$200-$250 including the case.

It's an excellent idea and one I have in my "to do" file... but time is of
the essence right now (leaving very soon!) and the finances are tight as we
are bringing enough educational materials for a week's worth of "classes"
for around 200 kids. That and a small construction project will make our
luggage a "pick and choose what is most important" issue already.

...But I plan on doing something like that and shipping it in the next
overseas container.

The last time I did this was consolidating power for four expensive
Senheiser wireless mic receivers. It took a total of three days from
reviewing the existing line lumps and ordering a suitable single supply
from Digi-Key, two day shipping and an hour to chop the cords off the
line lumps, wire to the new supply and test.

On Tue, 4 Jan 2011 10:49:14 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

I'm going over to Africa shortly to work on a project there.

I've been there before. Most of our small devices such as battery chargers,
etc. all say clearly that they will run on 110V OR 220V sources so we
generally have no problems. However... I now have around 30 small devices
to plug in nightly and only two receptacles at our location.

I haven't found a power strip that is rated for 110/220V yet - and even
simple splitters aren't rated for that.

I *think* a simple splitter (no surge protection, etc) should work but I'm
curious if anyone has done such a thing? It's all about the wiring inside
and these things are generally solid blocks of formed plastic with
electrical connectors inside...

Thoughts? Solutions? Random chastisements?

The reason this is somewhat on topic is because we will be over there
rebuilding a small village medical center. Our infrastructure is a steel
shipping container that we have acquired. It will be modified to become a
building of sorts. I'll also be gathering a water sample to test as their
water there seems to have a strange issue. It comes out clear but within a
little while, turns red in color. ...So while they do have a well, they
don't have fresh water yet.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R


Plug all the 110/220 devices with 110 style plugs into a non surge
protected power bar, and use an adapter to make that plug fit the 220
volt outlet. It will not have any problem handling the load because at
220 things draw half what they would at 110 for the same load.

On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 15:14:40 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
.... their
water there seems to have a strange issue. It comes out clear but within a
little while, turns red in color. ...

Is it really red, or more orange? Our water has "clear water iron"`
which is clear (duh) until exposed to oxygen & the iron turns to rust.
And then settles - it is actually particulate, not molecular. We remove
it because of the staining, but it is perfectly safe.

Ditto here. I'm still wondering if it's cost effective to remove. How
are you doing it? I have a whole house filter and the spun fiber
filters are reddish orange with rust in a matter of days. My hot
water is starting to smell worse, too. Not sulfided, but more like
metallic river water. I keep putting off the testing and should call
the well people for their free testing. The labs get up to $400 for
the full analysis. ($38 bac + $185 secondaries + $175 stain and smell)

--
You do not need a parachute to skydive.
You only need a parachute to skydive twice.

On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 11:11:25 -0800, Rich Grise
wrote:

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
I suggest that you purchase a couple of 220/110 step-down transformers for
an additional level of line isolation safety protection, and then just use
ordinary 120VAC power strips.

Would love to do that... but we have a limited amount of time and space
left...

Really, all I'm looking for are a few "recepticle multipliers" so...

Worst case scenario is that we share the plugs creatively. It's super
rural Africa during the day, but european hostel-like at night so I'm
guessing we can find a way.

But what _ARE_ these "thirty devices?" Why do you need so much high-tech
in Africa, for heaven's sakes?

Thanks,
Rich

IU'd venture it has something to do with health care???

On Tue, 4 Jan 2011 14:09:00 -0600, "David Courtney"
wrote:

"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
...
I'm going over to Africa shortly to work on a project there.

I've been there before. Most of our small devices such as battery
chargers, etc. all say clearly that they will run on 110V OR 220V sources
so we generally have no problems. However... I now have around 30 small
devices to plug in nightly and only two receptacles at our location.

I haven't found a power strip that is rated for 110/220V yet - and even
simple splitters aren't rated for that.

I *think* a simple splitter (no surge protection, etc) should work but I'm
curious if anyone has done such a thing? It's all about the wiring inside
and these things are generally solid blocks of formed plastic with
electrical connectors inside...

Thoughts? Solutions? Random chastisements?

The reason this is somewhat on topic is because we will be over there
rebuilding a small village medical center. Our infrastructure is a steel
shipping container that we have acquired. It will be modified to become a
building of sorts. I'll also be gathering a water sample to test as their
water there seems to have a strange issue. It comes out clear but within
a little while, turns red in color. ...So while they do have a well, they
don't have fresh water yet.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.


I don't know the situation regarding shipping, fuel availability, etc...
but NorthernTool had 1000w generators on sale for $129 last time I was
there. For that much, you could just leave it when you leave. They run 5
hours on a gallon of gas.
For $300 they also had a 900w inverter based generator that's supposed
to be good for powering electronic devices, that run 4 hours on a half
gallon.

In Ghana you would DEFINITELY want a deisel Gasoline is not as easy
to get and is a lot more expensive.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 4 Jan 2011 14:09:00 -0600, "David Courtney"
wrote:

"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
...
I'm going over to Africa shortly to work on a project there.

I've been there before. Most of our small devices such as battery
chargers, etc. all say clearly that they will run on 110V OR 220V
sources
so we generally have no problems. However... I now have around 30
small
devices to plug in nightly and only two receptacles at our location.

I haven't found a power strip that is rated for 110/220V yet - and even
simple splitters aren't rated for that.

I *think* a simple splitter (no surge protection, etc) should work but
I'm
curious if anyone has done such a thing? It's all about the wiring
inside
and these things are generally solid blocks of formed plastic with
electrical connectors inside...

Thoughts? Solutions? Random chastisements?

The reason this is somewhat on topic is because we will be over there
rebuilding a small village medical center. Our infrastructure is a
steel
shipping container that we have acquired. It will be modified to become
a
building of sorts. I'll also be gathering a water sample to test as
their
water there seems to have a strange issue. It comes out clear but
within
a little while, turns red in color. ...So while they do have a well,
they
don't have fresh water yet.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.


I don't know the situation regarding shipping, fuel availability,
etc...
but NorthernTool had 1000w generators on sale for $129 last time I was
there. For that much, you could just leave it when you leave. They run 5
hours on a gallon of gas.
For $300 they also had a 900w inverter based generator that's supposed
to be good for powering electronic devices, that run 4 hours on a half
gallon.

In Ghana you would DEFINITELY want a deisel Gasoline is not as easy
to get and is a lot more expensive.

Yeah, I get that... but it still might be a LOT cheaper to find 2 or 3
gallons of gasoline (for a week of charging) than to buy and ship a diesel
generator.

On Jan 4, 3:53*pm, "Joe AutoDrill" wrote:
Did you read my suggestion about consolidating the devices? That is the
most viable way to limit space and weight, and will generally give you a
more reliable industrial power supply to replace a myriad of consumer
wall warts and line lumps. You could easily package such a consolidated
power package into a mid sized Pelican case and that power supply could
be equipped with the native 240V plug properly. Putting such a package
together should cost ~$200-$250 including the case.

It's an excellent idea and one I have in my "to do" file... *but time is of
the essence right now (leaving very soon!) and the finances are tight as we
are bringing enough educational materials for a week's worth of "classes"
for around 200 kids. *That and a small construction project will make our
luggage a "pick and choose what is most important" issue already.

...But I plan on doing something like that and shipping it in the next
overseas container.
--

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills:http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills:http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping:http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site:http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS:http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER:http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK:http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

One VERY IMPORTANT point: If you do use a 120V power strip to
distribute 240V, make sure you label it loud and clear. Big red
letters. You wouldn't want to make the mistake of plugging a 120V
device into 240V.

a) Any of the switcher wallwart devices [aka "100-240V"] will
be fine on 240. Your sole concern is plug conversion. If you
can confirm that, i.e. be 100% sure no 120V only device will be
along; then I might be talked into a hack solution, a 240 plug
on a metal outlet strip w/120 receptacles.

But I bet some luser plugs his 120-only something in when
your back is turned, and it's history....

b) Many of the "travelers voltage converters" are garbage, and
will destroy the device plugged into them. Some are crude diode
choppers, others series resistors, etc. Incandescent lamps and
hair driers are about the only safe loads.

c) Any real transformer solution will be HEAVY for given watts
of load.

Hope this helps.
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

"David Lesher" wrote in message
...

a) Any of the switcher wallwart devices [aka "100-240V"] will
be fine on 240. Your sole concern is plug conversion. If you
can confirm that, i.e. be 100% sure no 120V only device will be
along; then I might be talked into a hack solution, a 240 plug
on a metal outlet strip w/120 receptacles.

Plug conversion in Ghana was not a problem. All their 240V wall outlets
would also receive a standard 110V plug from the US. ...Now what I don't
rememebr is whether it had the third hole for the ground... I doubt it so
that may be an issue... But one that is easily solved.

But I bet some luser plugs his 120-only something in when
your back is turned, and it's history....

All the equipment is passing by my eyes before it goes onto the plane.
That's the best I can do to save the luserites.

b) Many of the "travelers voltage converters" are garbage, and
will destroy the device plugged into them. Some are crude diode
choppers, others series resistors, etc. Incandescent lamps and
hair driers are about the only safe loads.

Well, hair dryers should be useless where we are going and lamps... We
carry rechargeable LED devices now. Wind up if necessary.

c) Any real transformer solution will be HEAVY for given watts
of load.

Eventually, we will go with a dedicated diesel generator. Since the school
in the village has no water, plumbing or electricity (not to mention walls,
windows and a roof at some points), the addition of power for a few hours a
day will totally transform the way they do their schooling. Most of the
kids work in the fields in the AM hours then run or ride to school (usually
barefoot, sometimes as far as 5 miles) to catch whatever they can. Often
times, the teachers do the same and last time we were there, 4 out of 5
classrooms were filled with kids but no teachers...

You can see photos of my trip from last January he
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...7&l=8c5a213a20

When you get to the school, you will ID it because it looks like an
abandoned storehouse with a massively failing foundation due to erosion and
more rust than a scrap yard can contain.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 15:14:40 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

... Our water has "clear water iron"`...

Ditto here. I'm still wondering if it's cost effective to remove. How
are you doing it? ...

Our water softener takes it out. We need the softener for minerals in
the water, but I think a softener would be worth it just for the iron -
it does stain a lot without it. Even when clothes are washed they can
get iron stains if the water isn't treated.

Bob

On Wed, 05 Jan 2011 20:46:25 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 15:14:40 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

... Our water has "clear water iron"`...

Ditto here. I'm still wondering if it's cost effective to remove. How
are you doing it? ...

Our water softener takes it out. We need the softener for minerals in
the water, but I think a softener would be worth it just for the iron -
it does stain a lot without it. Even when clothes are washed they can
get iron stains if the water isn't treated.

I vascillate between carbon filters and spun thread, but both take
enough out to keep my whites white. (luckily)

What type of softener are you using, does it add sodium or other
minerals to the water, price, value, effectiveness, etc?

Danke in advance for the answers.

I think it's time to repipe, too, because I can drink the water out of
the tap without a problem if it's cold, but turn on the hot (new water
heater 3 years ago) and it comes out stinky and metallic tasting every
time. It's not a hydrogen sulfide smell, either. Smell is most
noticeable in the most used bathroom, both sink and tub/shower. Taste
has pretty much the same ickyness from any hot water faucet in the
house.

--
Some people are like Slinkies ... not really good for
anything, but you can't help smiling when you see one
tumble down the stairs.

On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 15:46:47 -0500, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...7&l=8c5a213a20
Takes me back to my days in Zambia - and even more to Burkina Faso
(right next to Ghana- but French instead of English). Totally
different countries, but with so many similarities.

Animals in West Africa are very few and far between, while quite
common in East Africa. West Africa is much more densely populated (by
and large) with more open spaces in East Africa.

The old English colonies are generally in better shape,
infrastucture-wize than the French colonies - and both are
significantly better than the old Poertugese colonies.

On Wed, 05 Jan 2011 20:14:06 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 05 Jan 2011 20:46:25 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 15:14:40 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

... Our water has "clear water iron"`...

Ditto here. I'm still wondering if it's cost effective to remove. How
are you doing it? ...

Our water softener takes it out. We need the softener for minerals in
the water, but I think a softener would be worth it just for the iron -
it does stain a lot without it. Even when clothes are washed they can
get iron stains if the water isn't treated.

I vascillate between carbon filters and spun thread, but both take
enough out to keep my whites white. (luckily)

What type of softener are you using, does it add sodium or other
minerals to the water, price, value, effectiveness, etc?

Danke in advance for the answers.

I think it's time to repipe, too, because I can drink the water out of
the tap without a problem if it's cold, but turn on the hot (new water
heater 3 years ago) and it comes out stinky and metallic tasting every
time. It's not a hydrogen sulfide smell, either. Smell is most
noticeable in the most used bathroom, both sink and tub/shower. Taste
has pretty much the same ickyness from any hot water faucet in the
house.

I had one that'd do it in a previous house, a dual bed unit
(Kinetico). They're expensive, but use softened water for brine
makeup and flush. Otherwise, iron tends to stay on the resin and
poison it over time. The softening salt with chelating agents might
prevent that and allow use of a single bed. EDTA likes iron, and
magnesium, and calcium, ...

Pete Keillor

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
"David Lesher" wrote in message
...
a) Any of the switcher wallwart devices [aka "100-240V"] will
be fine on 240. Your sole concern is plug conversion. If you
can confirm that, i.e. be 100% sure no 120V only device will be
along; then I might be talked into a hack solution, a 240 plug
on a metal outlet strip w/120 receptacles.

Plug conversion in Ghana was not a problem. All their 240V wall outlets
would also receive a standard 110V plug from the US. ...Now what I don't
rememebr is whether it had the third hole for the ground... I doubt it so
that may be an issue... But one that is easily solved.


When I travel, I use the splitters that are 90 deg. apart.
I found some 6" extension cords at Target. 3 for $4.00 I think.
I just stack as many splitters as I need & use the 6" cords for
wall-warts and such.
This will work with either 110 or 220.

In my office I have a plug-strip with 6 in-line splitters & the 6"
cords for a total of 18 outlets.

Just a note:
Have access to a file.
Sometimes you may have to remove the tabs on the neutral blade so
the plug fits.


But I bet some luser plugs his 120-only something in when
your back is turned, and it's history....

All the equipment is passing by my eyes before it goes onto the plane.
That's the best I can do to save the luserites.

b) Many of the "travelers voltage converters" are garbage, and
will destroy the device plugged into them. Some are crude diode
choppers, others series resistors, etc. Incandescent lamps and
hair driers are about the only safe loads.

Well, hair dryers should be useless where we are going and lamps... We
carry rechargeable LED devices now. Wind up if necessary.

c) Any real transformer solution will be HEAVY for given watts
of load.

Eventually, we will go with a dedicated diesel generator. Since the school
in the village has no water, plumbing or electricity (not to mention walls,
windows and a roof at some points), the addition of power for a few hours a
day will totally transform the way they do their schooling. Most of the
kids work in the fields in the AM hours then run or ride to school (usually
barefoot, sometimes as far as 5 miles) to catch whatever they can. Often
times, the teachers do the same and last time we were there, 4 out of 5
classrooms were filled with kids but no teachers...

You can see photos of my trip from last January he
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...7&l=8c5a213a20

When you get to the school, you will ID it because it looks like an
abandoned storehouse with a massively failing foundation due to erosion and
more rust than a scrap yard can contain.


--
Gary A. Gorgen | "From ideas to PRODUCTS"
| Tunxis Design Inc.
| Cupertino, Ca. 95014

Larry Jaques wrote:
...
What type of softener are you using, does it add sodium or other
minerals to the water, price, value, effectiveness, etc?
....

Plain 'ol ion exchange resin, sodium being the exchanged ion. It's
almost 20 years old, so the details are forgotten and/or out of date.

Bob

You should look into solar chargers. Africa has a lot of
sunshine. Maybe a bit too much, at times.

If we had a bit more time, I'd offer to wire you such a
device (suitcase with power cord, step down transformer, and
lots of 110 VAC outlets).

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Joe AutoDrill"
wrote in message ...

We travel back to a hostel-like place at night to recharge
our communication
devices (phones, small radios) as well as video and digital
camera batteries
and a laptop or two for archiving the info, photos and for
communication
with the US for our team members.

Only three people out of the 13 have been to Africa and I'm
the least
experienced of the three with *one* previous visit to the
village. ...It's
about making these volunteers as effective as possible so
they can come back
and share the vision, help it grow, etc. Mostly, the
electronic equipment
will benefit us by recording the educational shortfalls,
interviews of the
kids and teachers talking about their lives, etc.
....Footage that will be
used in local schools here in NJ and VA as well as by our
organization for
future event promo.

It's complicated, but well thought out for the most part.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.

I've heard that many tribal people have no concept
of microbes. The oxen may be grazing and performing
bodily waste near the well.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Joe AutoDrill"
wrote in message news
Bob,

I hope to find that out when I get there.
Unfortunately, I was unable to
access the well the last time I was there.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.

I suspect that a step down tranformer, and a bank of 110 VAC
American style sockets is the way to go. I think you're
right that some ignorant person will plug in his / her 110
VAC wall wart plug, and let out the white smoke.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"David Lesher" wrote in message
...

a) Any of the switcher wallwart devices [aka "100-240V"]
will
be fine on 240. Your sole concern is plug conversion. If
you
can confirm that, i.e. be 100% sure no 120V only device will
be
along; then I might be talked into a hack solution, a 240
plug
on a metal outlet strip w/120 receptacles.

But I bet some luser plugs his 120-only something in when
your back is turned, and it's history....

b) Many of the "travelers voltage converters" are garbage,
and
will destroy the device plugged into them. Some are crude
diode
choppers, others series resistors, etc. Incandescent lamps
and
hair driers are about the only safe loads.

c) Any real transformer solution will be HEAVY for given
watts
of load.

Hope this helps.
--
A host is a host from coast to

& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301)
56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't
close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or
dead....................................20915-1433

On Fri, 7 Jan 2011 12:11:11 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:


b) Many of the "travelers voltage converters" are garbage,
and
will destroy the device plugged into them. Some are crude
diode
choppers, others series resistors, etc. Incandescent lamps
and
hair driers are about the only safe loads.

c) Any real transformer solution will be HEAVY for given
watts
of load.

Hope this helps.


Frequency is some countries may not be 60hz so voltage might not be
the only concern.