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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this?
I want to design a part using the same kind of metal - to - plastic interface as on the Krups 203-70 coffee bean grinders but I want to avoid the cracks in the corners. If it gets posted it will be: http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/KrupsKrack.jpg http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/KrupsKrack.txt Will this require say, a compliant adhesive gasket between my metal surface and the inside of the plastic reservoir or is this flaw primarily caused by a different problem, say a mixing issue that causes the plastic to be really brittle? Thanks! --Winston |
#2
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
John R. Carroll wrote:
(...) Those are stress cracks that result from the molding process, plasticizer migration and shrinkage over time. Thanks! This plastic stuff is complicated. Clearly I will have to turn that design task over to a specialist. Apparently not too much time is required for the cracks to develop. I shot the photo about 10 minutes after taking the grinder out of the box for the first time. I never even turned it on. --Winston |
#3
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
John R. Carroll wrote:
Winston wrote: John R. Carroll wrote: (...) Those are stress cracks that result from the molding process, plasticizer migration and shrinkage over time. Thanks! This plastic stuff is complicated. Clearly I will have to turn that design task over to a specialist. Apparently not too much time is required for the cracks to develop. I shot the photo about 10 minutes after taking the grinder out of the box for the first time. I never even turned it on. I didn't realize it was new. Sheesh. The part has probably cracked at the knit lines. 'Knit Lines'. That is a new one on me. http://www.protomold.com/Design_Tips/UnitedStates/2004/2004-08_designtips/ Poor knitting has a number of causes but chief among them is improper resin processing or low mold temperatures. IOW, somebody screwed up either when they designed the gates/runner system or when running the mold. Ah Ha! So it passed final inspection while hot but grew the cracks in the Amazon warehouse? Wow! Thanks again. --Winston |
#4
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? When I mounted splash shields on the table of my R2E4 (cast acrylic, and VERY prone to cracking and "spidering" from holes), I drilled the holes in the plastic to accept a grommet. IIRC, the holes were 7/16". I don't even want to have special bits around for plastics, so I drilled them way undersized, and used a tapered reamer to enlarge them without cracking the plastic. The grommets were made for whatever hole size I drilled, and themselves had a bore of 1/4". The 1/4"-20 screws with a washer under the head fit just loosely in the grommets. When you squish 'em a little, the hole swells shut, and it holds firmly to both bolt and plastic, without any tendency for the plastic to be stressed at the union. Unless you use a shoulder bolt, you'll have to put a bit of threadlocker in the screw hole, since you cannot tighten the bolt too far without undoing the whole purpose of the exercise. LLoyd |
#5
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in
. 3.70: Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? When I mounted splash shields on the table of my R2E4 (cast acrylic, and VERY prone to cracking and "spidering" from holes), I drilled the holes in the plastic to accept a grommet. IIRC, the holes were 7/16". I don't even want to have special bits around for plastics, so I drilled them way undersized, and used a tapered reamer to enlarge them without cracking the plastic. The grommets were made for whatever hole size I drilled, and themselves had a bore of 1/4". The 1/4"-20 screws with a washer under the head fit just loosely in the grommets. When you squish 'em a little, the hole swells shut, and it holds firmly to both bolt and plastic, without any tendency for the plastic to be stressed at the union. Unless you use a shoulder bolt, you'll have to put a bit of threadlocker in the screw hole, since you cannot tighten the bolt too far without undoing the whole purpose of the exercise. Just make sure you keep the threadlocker AWAY from the plastic. I'm not sure about acrylic, but I know from sad experience what happens to Lexan when you get Loctite on it. We had a rush job that was just about finished when an overzealous technician decided to applied threadlocker to some 3/8" Lexan parts it took several days to machine. They swelled up & cracked like mad. Had to start all over again, with even less time. Doug White |
#6
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Steve Ackman wrote:
, on Sat, 25 Dec 2010 08:06:59 -0800, Winston, wrote: Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? Use a coffee grinder instead of a coffee basher? ;-) Help, Sir Coffee! Is this one all right? http://www.bodumusa.com/shop/line.asp?MD=1&GID=29&LID=894&CHK=&SLT=&mscssid=T39 9V5FNF5FH8H0KXMCTXNK6UPGJE3F4 Can you recommend a better unit? --Winston |
#7
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? When I mounted splash shields on the table of my R2E4 (cast acrylic, and VERY prone to cracking and "spidering" from holes), I drilled the holes in the plastic to accept a grommet. IIRC, the holes were 7/16". I don't even want to have special bits around for plastics, so I drilled them way undersized, and used a tapered reamer to enlarge them without cracking the plastic. The grommets were made for whatever hole size I drilled, and themselves had a bore of 1/4". The 1/4"-20 screws with a washer under the head fit just loosely in the grommets. When you squish 'em a little, the hole swells shut, and it holds firmly to both bolt and plastic, without any tendency for the plastic to be stressed at the union. Unless you use a shoulder bolt, you'll have to put a bit of threadlocker in the screw hole, since you cannot tighten the bolt too far without undoing the whole purpose of the exercise. So my intuition about an elastomer gasket wasn't too far off then, aye? Excellent! Thanks Lloyd. --Winston |
#8
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Doug White wrote:
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in . 3.70: Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? When I mounted splash shields on the table of my R2E4 (cast acrylic, and VERY prone to cracking and "spidering" from holes), I drilled the holes in the plastic to accept a grommet. IIRC, the holes were 7/16". I don't even want to have special bits around for plastics, so I drilled them way undersized, and used a tapered reamer to enlarge them without cracking the plastic. The grommets were made for whatever hole size I drilled, and themselves had a bore of 1/4". The 1/4"-20 screws with a washer under the head fit just loosely in the grommets. When you squish 'em a little, the hole swells shut, and it holds firmly to both bolt and plastic, without any tendency for the plastic to be stressed at the union. Unless you use a shoulder bolt, you'll have to put a bit of threadlocker in the screw hole, since you cannot tighten the bolt too far without undoing the whole purpose of the exercise. Just make sure you keep the threadlocker AWAY from the plastic. I'm not sure about acrylic, but I know from sad experience what happens to Lexan when you get Loctite on it. We had a rush job that was just about finished when an overzealous technician decided to applied threadlocker to some 3/8" Lexan parts it took several days to machine. They swelled up& cracked like mad. Had to start all over again, with even less time. Doug White Reminds me of a misadventure I had with acrylic and an acetone spill once. Thanks for the reminder. --Winston |
#9
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
On Dec 25, 10:06*am, Winston wrote:
Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? I want to design a part using the same kind of metal - to - plastic interface as on the Krups 203-70 coffee bean grinders but I want to avoid the cracks in the corners. If it gets posted it will be:http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...KrupsKrack.txt Will this require say, a compliant adhesive gasket between my metal surface and the inside of the plastic reservoir or is this flaw primarily caused by a different problem, say a mixing issue that causes the plastic to be really brittle? Thanks! --Winston It could be a material problem or maybe the part that broke was designed to use the minimum amount of plastic necessary in order to cut manufacturing costs. You could try your hand at plastic welding, maybe with a small soldering iron and proper tip. Another possibility might be solvent welding if it’s made of PVC. I’ll bet that the part wouldn’t have broken if the sections were thick enough. |
#10
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Denis G. wrote:
On Dec 25, 10:06 am, wrote: Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? I want to design a part using the same kind of metal - to - plastic interface as on the Krups 203-70 coffee bean grinders but I want to avoid the cracks in the corners. If it gets posted it will be: http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/KrupsKrack.jpg http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/KrupsKrack.txt (....) It could be a material problem or maybe the part that broke was designed to use the minimum amount of plastic necessary in order to cut manufacturing costs. You could try your hand at plastic welding, maybe with a small soldering iron and proper tip. Another possibility might be solvent welding if it’s made of PVC. I'm not going to repair the existing grinder, especially since I need a different type anyway. (Who knew?) I’ll bet that the part wouldn’t have broken if the sections were thick enough. My application will use softer plastic, so perhaps cracking won't be an issue. --Winston |
#11
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Winston fired this volley in
: So my intuition about an elastomer gasket wasn't too far off then, aye? Excellent! Thanks Lloyd. Winston, you have mentioned the "other alternative". Instead of holes, grommets, and bolts, some applications have a channel frame all-round the work with a u-channel-shaped gasket capturing the edge of the plastic sheet. The only problem with this method for the 'ordinary' shop guy is getting gasket and frame material that will match up with one-another and the thickness of the plastic. LLoyd |
#12
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
On Dec 26, 12:04*am, Winston wrote:
Denis G. wrote: On Dec 25, 10:06 am, *wrote: Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? I want to design a part using the same kind of metal - to - plastic interface as on the Krups 203-70 coffee bean grinders but I want to avoid the cracks in the corners. If it gets posted it will be: http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/KrupsKrack.jpg http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/KrupsKrack.txt (....) It could be a material problem or maybe the part that broke was designed to use the minimum amount of plastic necessary in order to cut manufacturing costs. *You could try your hand at plastic welding, maybe with a small soldering iron and proper tip. Another possibility might be solvent welding if it’s made of PVC. I'm not going to repair the existing grinder, especially since I need a different type anyway. (Who knew?) I’ll bet that the part wouldn’t have broken if the sections were thick enough. My application will use softer plastic, so perhaps cracking won't be an issue. --Winston The only issue with a softer plastic might be a greater likihood of staining, but maybe it won't matter for your application. |
#13
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Denis G. wrote:
On Dec 26, 12:04 am, wrote: (...) My application will use softer plastic, so perhaps cracking won't be an issue. --Winston The only issue with a softer plastic might be a greater likihood of staining, but maybe it won't matter for your application. You are right. This will be a 'liner' of a larger insulated container that will very rarely see the light of day. --Winston |
#14
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Winston wrote:
Steve Ackman wrote: , on Sat, 25 Dec 2010 08:06:59 -0800, Winston, wrote: Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? Use a coffee grinder instead of a coffee basher? ;-) Help, Sir Coffee! Is this one all right? http://www.bodumusa.com/shop/line.asp?MD=1&GID=29&LID=894&CHK=&SLT=&mscssid=T39 9V5FNF5FH8H0KXMCTXNK6UPGJE3F4 Can you recommend a better unit? --Winston I like my B&D model CBM210 . I'm the only coffee drinker in my house . An 8 second grind makes just the right amount of coffee for my little 5 cup coffeemaker . I'm set like 4 or 5 clicks from the finest grind . And it's around 30 bucks at Walmart . -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! |
#15
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
fired this volley in : So my intuition about an elastomer gasket wasn't too far off then, aye? Excellent! Thanks Lloyd. Winston, you have mentioned the "other alternative". Instead of holes, grommets, and bolts, some applications have a channel frame all-round the work with a u-channel-shaped gasket capturing the edge of the plastic sheet. The only problem with this method for the 'ordinary' shop guy is getting gasket and frame material that will match up with one-another and the thickness of the plastic. I had a very similar challenge sealing the end of a 30 gallon HDPE drum to the inside of a cylindrical plastic flange. The application did not require a lot of strength. After I cleaned and degreased both pieces, I assembled them and flipped them 'opening down'. I poured some castable elastomer into the gap between the inside of the flange and the outside of the drum. It worked a treat! The elastomer was just 'runny' enough to find and seal the gap between the two cylinders, without leaking out of the gap. It was this stuff IIRC: http://www.devcon.com/products/produ...amily=Flexane® 80 Liquid I expect that one could pour this stuff into a machined mold to create a gasket of just about any shape, too. --Winston |
#16
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Snag wrote:
Winston wrote: (...) Can you recommend a better unit? --Winston I like my B&D model CBM210 . I'm the only coffee drinker in my house . An 8 second grind makes just the right amount of coffee for my little 5 cup coffeemaker . I'm set like 4 or 5 clicks from the finest grind . And it's around 30 bucks at Walmart . Thanks, Snag! --Winston |
#17
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
In article ,
Winston wrote: Steve Ackman wrote: , on Sat, 25 Dec 2010 08:06:59 -0800, Winston, wrote: Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? Use a coffee grinder instead of a coffee basher? ;-) Help, Sir Coffee! Is this one all right? http://www.bodumusa.com/shop/line.as...SLT=&mscssid=T 399V5FNF5FH8H0KXMCTXNK6UPGJE3F4 Can you recommend a better unit? According to a Consumer Reports article some years ago, burr grinders work very well, especially for making a fine grind for expresso, but need a lot of cleaning to keep rancid coffee oil flavors. We use a Krups Fast Touch Coffee Grinder, which is oval and of the impact type, and have not had problems with cracking. I recall that the broken grinder was not oval, and the cracks formed at the corners. http://www.krupsonlinestore.com/prod...203-42&MENU=gr inders&SELECT=&SKW=krugrind They retail for $13 to $18, so one does not repair them. Not that it's been needed, and the current one is at least ten years old. Joe Gwinn |
#18
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In , wrote: Steve Ackman wrote: , on Sat, 25 Dec 2010 08:06:59 -0800, Winston, wrote: Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? Use a coffee grinder instead of a coffee basher? ;-) Help, Sir Coffee! Is this one all right? http://www.bodumusa.com/shop/line.as...SLT=&mscssid=T 399V5FNF5FH8H0KXMCTXNK6UPGJE3F4 Can you recommend a better unit? According to a Consumer Reports article some years ago, burr grinders work very well, especially for making a fine grind for expresso, but need a lot of cleaning to keep rancid coffee oil flavors. We use a Krups Fast Touch Coffee Grinder, which is oval and of the impact type, and have not had problems with cracking. I recall that the broken grinder was not oval, and the cracks formed at the corners. It's a trick of perspective. I shot the picture along the long axis of the oval. http://www.krupsonlinestore.com/prod...203-42&MENU=gr inders&SELECT=&SKW=krugrind They retail for $13 to $18, so one does not repair them. Not that it's been needed, and the current one is at least ten years old. Yup. Our old one lasted many years. It's become sluggish, prompting the replacement. For now, we are back using the old one and the new one is in the garbage can. --Winston |
#19
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
In article ,
Winston wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote: In , wrote: Steve Ackman wrote: , on Sat, 25 Dec 2010 08:06:59 -0800, Winston, wrote: Can anyone tell me how I can avoid this? Use a coffee grinder instead of a coffee basher? ;-) Help, Sir Coffee! Is this one all right? http://www.bodumusa.com/shop/line.as...K=&SLT=&mscssi d=T 399V5FNF5FH8H0KXMCTXNK6UPGJE3F4 Can you recommend a better unit? According to a Consumer Reports article some years ago, burr grinders work very well, especially for making a fine grind for expresso, but need a lot of cleaning to keep rancid coffee oil flavors. We use a Krups Fast Touch Coffee Grinder, which is oval and of the impact type, and have not had problems with cracking. I recall that the broken grinder was not oval, and the cracks formed at the corners. It's a trick of perspective. I shot the picture along the long axis of the oval. http://www.krupsonlinestore.com/prod...203-42&MENU=gr inders&SELECT=&SKW=krugrind They retail for $13 to $18, so one does not repair them. Not that it's been needed, and the current one is at least ten years old. Yup. Our old one lasted many years. It's become sluggish, prompting the replacement. For now, we are back using the old one and the new one is in the garbage can. Maybe it *is* worth fixing the old one, if the new ones are built pre-busted. I bet the sluggishness is due to dirty bearings or the like. Or congealed coffee oils. A disassembly, cleaning, and oiling may be the charm. But I would return the busted new one, just to be a pill. Joe Gwinn. |
#20
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In , wrote: (...) For now, we are back using the old one and the new one is in the garbage can. Maybe it *is* worth fixing the old one, if the new ones are built pre-busted. For now we have a replacement from one of Krups' competitors so that we can make Java until I decide which conical burr grinder is the one for us. I bet the sluggishness is due to dirty bearings or the like. Or congealed coffee oils. A disassembly, cleaning, and oiling may be the charm. I looked into that. The enclosure snaps together semi-permanently and requires a complicated jig to apply just the right pressure to many key points to spring all the necessary latches for disassembly. But I would return the busted new one, just to be a pill. I suggested that. SWMBO reminded me that Amazon was not interested in our petty concerns, though. Oh Well. --Winston |
#21
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Steve Ackman wrote:
, on Sat, 25 Dec 2010 21:15:39 -0800, Winston, wrote: Help, Sir Coffee! Is this one all right? http://www.bodumusa.com/shop/line.asp?MD=1&GID=29&LID=894&CHK=&SLT=&mscssid=T39 9V5FNF5FH8H0KXMCTXNK6UPGJE3F4 I haven't used that model, but I like the sound of the glass grinds catcher. (...) Thanks again Steve. You supply valuable info and I appreciate it. You are turning me into a Coffee Snob. Even though I will be using a $100 grinder with a $29.95 coffee pot. --Winston |
#22
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
In article ,
Winston wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote: In , wrote: (...) For now, we are back using the old one and the new one is in the garbage can. Maybe it *is* worth fixing the old one, if the new ones are built pre-busted. For now we have a replacement from one of Krups' competitors so that we can make Java until I decide which conical burr grinder is the one for us. I bet the sluggishness is due to dirty bearings or the like. Or congealed coffee oils. A disassembly, cleaning, and oiling may be the charm. I looked into that. The enclosure snaps together semi-permanently and requires a complicated jig to apply just the right pressure to many key points to spring all the necessary latches for disassembly. I bet not. I open such things all the time, by a method akin to picking a lock. With manufacturing tolerance, one of the latches will tighten first. Open it with a probe, and the cover will move open slightly, enough so the latch won't re-latch. Another latch will now be first, etc. Use a taper or two to hold things apart between steps, driving the tapers deeper whenever they become loose. But I would return the busted new one, just to be a pill. I suggested that. SWMBO reminded me that Amazon was not interested in our petty concerns, though. Oh Well. SWMBO is likely correct about Amazon. I would return it to the manufacturer, who is supposed to care. Joe Gwinn |
#23
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Joseph Gwinn wrote:
(...) I bet not. I open such things all the time, by a method akin to picking a lock. With manufacturing tolerance, one of the latches will tighten first. Open it with a probe, and the cover will move open slightly, enough so the latch won't re-latch. Another latch will now be first, etc. Use a taper or two to hold things apart between steps, driving the tapers deeper whenever they become loose. I open latching electronic enclosures using that method as well. The remote control to my TV is a prime example. It works great because the plastic is pliable and rather thin. On The Other Hand.... The Krups grinder is made from thickish, brittle plastic that does not allow the incremental approach that we both find useful for electronic housings. I did some exploratory work but gave it up as a bad job. But I would return the busted new one, just to be a pill. I suggested that. SWMBO reminded me that Amazon was not interested in our petty concerns, though. Oh Well. SWMBO is likely correct about Amazon. I would return it to the manufacturer, who is supposed to care. The folks at Krups made all the right noises. Today they sent a nice eMail asking me to send them the defective unit with the purchase receipt. I have no doubt that they would replace it under warranty but I'm not going to spend $10 and an afternoon to get it properly boxed and returned just so I can get another of the same kind of unit. We now have *two* backup coffee grinders so I think I will focus my time on more profitable stuff. Joe, I'd be happy to send the new one to you for your entertainment. It strikes me that one could very easily stab ones self with a screwdriver trying to hack into it. So Beware! Just email me offline using the address on the bottom of my website and it is yours. http://mysite.verizon.net/reswoead/ --Winston |
#24
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Steve Ackman wrote:
, on Sun, 26 Dec 2010 21:30:21 -0800, Winston, wrote: You are turning me into a Coffee Snob. Even though I will be using a $100 grinder with a $29.95 coffee pot. Well then, whatever you do... do NOT cultivate a taste for espresso! Thanks, Steve. Your warning is 38 years too late but I appreciate the thought anyway. Make mine a doppio. --Winston |
#25
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
In article ,
Winston wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote: (...) I bet not. I open such things all the time, by a method akin to picking a lock. With manufacturing tolerance, one of the latches will tighten first. Open it with a probe, and the cover will move open slightly, enough so the latch won't re-latch. Another latch will now be first, etc. Use a taper or two to hold things apart between steps, driving the tapers deeper whenever they become loose. I open latching electronic enclosures using that method as well. The remote control to my TV is a prime example. It works great because the plastic is pliable and rather thin. On The Other Hand.... The Krups grinder is made from thickish, brittle plastic that does not allow the incremental approach that we both find useful for electronic housings. I did some exploratory work but gave it up as a bad job. If it's really that brittle, how did they get it together without making too much scrap? But I would return the busted new one, just to be a pill. I suggested that. SWMBO reminded me that Amazon was not interested in our petty concerns, though. Oh Well. SWMBO is likely correct about Amazon. I would return it to the manufacturer, who is supposed to care. The folks at Krups made all the right noises. Today they sent a nice eMail asking me to send them the defective unit with the purchase receipt. I have no doubt that they would replace it under warranty but I'm not going to spend $10 and an afternoon to get it properly boxed and returned just so I can get another of the same kind of unit. The point is to cost Krups something, "just to be a pill." It's their error signal. Maybe they will even do a post mortem on the returned unit. We now have *two* backup coffee grinders so I think I will focus my time on more profitable stuff. Joe, I'd be happy to send the new one to you for your entertainment. It strikes me that one could very easily stab ones self with a screwdriver trying to hack into it. So Beware! Just email me offline using the address on the bottom of my website and it is yours. http://mysite.verizon.net/reswoead/ Thanks for the offer, but doesn't this cost the same as sending it back to Krups? I just looked at the perfectly functional Krups Model 203 that my wife bought a very long time ago. It is held together with screws. Maybe the better solution is to haunt Goodwill stores. Joe Gwinn |
#26
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In , wrote: (...) I did some exploratory work but gave it up as a bad job. If it's really that brittle, how did they get it together without making too much scrap? That is why I think you would like to have a look at it in person. Any number of RCM denizens, present company included, could easily design plastic latch features which would engage but would not disengage without special tooling or part breakage. The Krups blade bean basher appears to be just such a design. One example is worth ten thousand words. (...) I have no doubt that they would replace it under warranty but I'm not going to spend $10 and an afternoon to get it properly boxed and returned just so I can get another of the same kind of unit. The point is to cost Krups something, "just to be a pill." It's their error signal. Maybe they will even do a post mortem on the returned unit. If error signals really worked, GM wouldn't have been a government subsidiary for the last five months and they wouldn't have handed over their marketplace nearly as readily as they did. Krups has the photo and the screaming and knashing of teeth from hundreds of other customers. One more unit is not going to change any minds. We now have *two* backup coffee grinders so I think I will focus my time on more profitable stuff. Joe, I'd be happy to send the new one to you for your entertainment. It strikes me that one could very easily stab ones self with a screwdriver trying to hack into it. So Beware! Just email me offline using the address on the bottom of my website and it is yours. http://mysite.verizon.net/reswoead/ Thanks for the offer, but doesn't this cost the same as sending it back to Krups? It would. I figure you would enjoy telling me how you disassembled it in 40 seconds using only a nail file, recast the housing using the 'lost wax' process and reassembled it with machine screws before lunchtime. That would be *worth* the price of admission. I just looked at the perfectly functional Krups Model 203 that my wife bought a very long time ago. It is held together with screws. Maybe the better solution is to haunt Goodwill stores. As soon as my two 'backup' grinders konk out, I will look in earnest for a cone burr grinder as Mssr. Ackman has suggested. Give it another year or so. --Winston |
#27
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
On Mon, 27 Dec 2010 20:34:54 -0700, Steve Ackman
wrote: In , on Sun, 26 Dec 2010 21:30:21 -0800, Winston, wrote: You are turning me into a Coffee Snob. Even though I will be using a $100 grinder with a $29.95 coffee pot. Well then, whatever you do... do NOT cultivate a taste for espresso! Why not? Mr. Coffee makes an espresso machine for $30. gd&r -- Make the best use of what is in your power, and take the rest as it happens. -- Epictetus |
#28
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
In article ,
Winston wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote: In , wrote: (...) I did some exploratory work but gave it up as a bad job. If it's really that brittle, how did they get it together without making too much scrap? That is why I think you would like to have a look at it in person. Any number of RCM denizens, present company included, could easily design plastic latch features which would engage but would not disengage without special tooling or part breakage. The Krups blade bean basher appears to be just such a design. One example is worth ten thousand words. (...) I have no doubt that they would replace it under warranty but I'm not going to spend $10 and an afternoon to get it properly boxed and returned just so I can get another of the same kind of unit. The point is to cost Krups something, "just to be a pill." It's their error signal. Maybe they will even do a post mortem on the returned unit. If error signals really worked, GM wouldn't have been a government subsidiary for the last five months and they wouldn't have handed over their marketplace nearly as readily as they did. Krups has the photo and the screaming and knashing of teeth from hundreds of other customers. One more unit is not going to change any minds. O ye of little faith... We now have *two* backup coffee grinders so I think I will focus my time on more profitable stuff. Joe, I'd be happy to send the new one to you for your entertainment. It strikes me that one could very easily stab ones self with a screwdriver trying to hack into it. So Beware! Just email me offline using the address on the bottom of my website and it is yours. http://mysite.verizon.net/reswoead/ Thanks for the offer, but doesn't this cost the same as sending it back to Krups? It would. I figure you would enjoy telling me how you disassembled it in 40 seconds using only a nail file, recast the housing using the 'lost wax' process and reassembled it with machine screws before lunchtime. That would be *worth* the price of admission. The boasting privilege is tempting, especially if fiction is allowed... I just looked at the perfectly functional Krups Model 203 that my wife bought a very long time ago. It is held together with screws. Maybe the better solution is to haunt Goodwill stores. As soon as my two 'backup' grinders konk out, I will look in earnest for a cone burr grinder as Mssr. Ackman has suggested. Give it another year or so. I have a modest suggestion. There is a dead simple fully mechanical approach with only one slow-moving part, the mortar and pestle. I bet a granite model would work well, and last forever. Joe Gwinn |
#29
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In , wrote: (...) Krups has the photo and the screaming and knashing of teeth from hundreds of other customers. One more unit is not going to change any minds. O ye of little faith... A most precise and accurate description. (...) It would. I figure you would enjoy telling me how you disassembled it in 40 seconds using only a nail file, recast the housing using the 'lost wax' process and reassembled it with machine screws before lunchtime. That would be *worth* the price of admission. The boasting privilege is tempting, especially if fiction is allowed... USENET: Where the truth is tolerated. (Psst. Larry! Teeshirt!) (...) I have a modest suggestion. There is a dead simple fully mechanical approach with only one slow-moving part, the mortar and pestle. I bet a granite model would work well, and last forever. That is a most elegant and quiet approach. But it could be improved upon with a 5 axis controller and a couple hundred man-hours of design time... --Winston |
#30
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
On Tue, 28 Dec 2010 15:01:21 -0800, Winston
wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote: In , wrote: (...) Krups has the photo and the screaming and knashing of teeth from hundreds of other customers. One more unit is not going to change any minds. O ye of little faith... A most precise and accurate description. (...) It would. I figure you would enjoy telling me how you disassembled it in 40 seconds using only a nail file, recast the housing using the 'lost wax' process and reassembled it with machine screws before lunchtime. That would be *worth* the price of admission. The boasting privilege is tempting, especially if fiction is allowed... USENET: Where the truth is tolerated. I like it! (Psst. Larry! Teeshirt!) Buy the rest of my "Clinton Never Exhaled" and/or "The Hindenberg, The Titanic, The Clintons" tees and I'll get right on it. I need capital for that process, son. (...) I have a modest suggestion. There is a dead simple fully mechanical approach with only one slow-moving part, the mortar and pestle. I bet a granite model would work well, and last forever. That is a most elegant and quiet approach. "Gee, your coffee has the most subtle, Earthy, stony taste to it, Joe." -- Make the best use of what is in your power, and take the rest as it happens. -- Epictetus |
#31
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
In article ,
Winston wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote: In , wrote: (...) Krups has the photo and the screaming and knashing of teeth from hundreds of other customers. One more unit is not going to change any minds. O ye of little faith... A most precise and accurate description. (...) It would. I figure you would enjoy telling me how you disassembled it in 40 seconds using only a nail file, recast the housing using the 'lost wax' process and reassembled it with machine screws before lunchtime. That would be *worth* the price of admission. The boasting privilege is tempting, especially if fiction is allowed... USENET: Where the truth is tolerated. (Psst. Larry! Teeshirt!) I'm unclear on one thing. Will this help or hurt our reputation? (...) I have a modest suggestion. There is a dead simple fully mechanical approach with only one slow-moving part, the mortar and pestle. I bet a granite model would work well, and last forever. That is a most elegant and quiet approach. But it could be improved upon with a 5 axis controller and a couple hundred man-hours of design time... Wouldn't a one-axis approach suffice? Up and down goes the pestle. Use a traditional drop-hammer mechanism, powered by steam. There - we got some iron into the story. And steampunk. Joe Gwinn |
#32
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Larry Jaques fired this volley in
: "Gee, your coffee has the most subtle, Earthy, stony taste to it, Joe." You could use it to grind peppers, too, and call the coffee, "Los Molcajetes Cafe Cayenne". LLoyd |
#33
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In , wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote: (...) USENET: Where the truth is tolerated. (Psst. Larry! Teeshirt!) I'm unclear on one thing. Will this help or hurt our reputation? With whom? -- Important Question I have a modest suggestion. There is a dead simple fully mechanical approach with only one slow-moving part, the mortar and pestle. I bet a granite model would work well, and last forever. That is a most elegant and quiet approach. But it could be improved upon with a 5 axis controller and a couple hundred man-hours of design time... Wouldn't a one-axis approach suffice? Up and down goes the pestle. Use a traditional drop-hammer mechanism, powered by steam. There - we got some iron into the story. And steampunk. Joe, you are a genius! --Winston |
#34
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Steve Ackman wrote:
, on Mon, 27 Dec 2010 21:24:16 -0800, Winston, wrote: (...) Make mine a doppio. I guess I should have said _GOOD_ espresso... as in the all too rarely attainable "God Shot." ;-) Transcendental Cuppa? I'd buy that. --Winston |
#35
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
On Tue, 28 Dec 2010 20:51:07 -0700, Steve Ackman
wrote: In , on Tue, 28 Dec 2010 11:22:01 -0800, Larry Jaques, wrote: On Mon, 27 Dec 2010 20:34:54 -0700, Steve Ackman wrote: In , on Sun, 26 Dec 2010 21:30:21 -0800, Winston, wrote: You are turning me into a Coffee Snob. Even though I will be using a $100 grinder with a $29.95 coffee pot. Well then, whatever you do... do NOT cultivate a taste for espresso! Why not? Mr. Coffee makes an espresso machine for $30. gd&r You better be ducking, because that $30 "expresso" machine is aimed right at your head! ;-) What, you got something against the finest plastics? -- Make the best use of what is in your power, and take the rest as it happens. -- Epictetus |
#36
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Metal / plastic interface cracking
Winston wrote: Joseph Gwinn wrote: In , wrote: (...) Krups has the photo and the screaming and knashing of teeth from hundreds of other customers. One more unit is not going to change any minds. O ye of little faith... A most precise and accurate description. (...) It would. I figure you would enjoy telling me how you disassembled it in 40 seconds using only a nail file, recast the housing using the 'lost wax' process and reassembled it with machine screws before lunchtime. That would be *worth* the price of admission. The boasting privilege is tempting, especially if fiction is allowed... USENET: Where the truth is tolerated. (Psst. Larry! Teeshirt!) (...) I have a modest suggestion. There is a dead simple fully mechanical approach with only one slow-moving part, the mortar and pestle. I bet a granite model would work well, and last forever. That is a most elegant and quiet approach. But it could be improved upon with a 5 axis controller and a couple hundred man-hours of design time... Just use a 20 ton press. ;-) -- You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's Teflon coated. |
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