I've just bought a "precision plate". I think its made from steel rather
than cast iron, but i haven't cleaned it yet. I doubt I will be using it
very often. It's covered with some sort of grease and waxed paper. Once I've
used it I want to regrease it. Are then any "greases" that are better than
others for this? I've been told lanolin is the way to go.
thanks
Stuart

stu wrote:
I've just bought a "precision plate". I think its made from steel rather
than cast iron, but i haven't cleaned it yet. I doubt I will be using it
very often. It's covered with some sort of grease and waxed paper. Once I've
used it I want to regrease it. Are then any "greases" that are better than
others for this? I've been told lanolin is the way to go.
thanks
Stuart

Dunno. But Northrop/Westwood/Redstone/Crimson college by LAX has a big
one! I think it's iron. Usually covered with a plywood sheet, I didn't
know what was under the plywood until I got into the recip engine class
where it was located. Pretty dinged up. I watched a classmate place some
metal thing on it and wail on it with a hammer. I don't think anyone at
the school realized what it was.

"stu" wrote...
I've just bought a "precision plate". I think its made from steel rather
than cast iron, but i haven't cleaned it yet. I doubt I will be using it
very often. It's covered with some sort of grease and waxed paper. Once
I've used it I want to regrease it. Are then any "greases" that are better
than others for this? I've been told lanolin is the way to go.
thanks
Stuart

Hi Stu,
Dunno if it's accepted practice, but I use motorcycle chain lube to
protect bare steel / iron surfaces, it's sticky and tenacious, but cleans
off easily enough when you want to use 'em, paraffin / kerosene on a rag
will take it straight off. The cheapest has always worked well for me, don't
worry about whether it has teflon or such in it!

One thing I won't have in either the house or the shed is silicone-based
products, as they're almost impossible to clean off thoroughly and even a
trace will prevent almost anything adhering (eg paint, laquer) - apart from
gasket silicone, where I *want* it to stick forever!

Dave H.
--
(The engineer formerly known as Homeless)

"Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men" -
Douglas Bader

On Mar 4, 12:39*am, "stu" no where just yet wrote:
I've just bought a "precision plate". I think its made from steel rather
than cast iron, but i haven't cleaned it yet. I doubt I will be using it
very often. It's covered with some sort of grease and waxed paper. Once I've
used it I want to regrease it. Are then any "greases" that are better than
others for this? I've been told lanolin is the way to go.
thanks
Stuart

I like this for that:
http://www.itwfpg.com/rustlick/corrosion/631.html

It resembles WD-40 but actually works.

jsw

In article ,
"stu" no where just yet wrote:

I've just bought a "precision plate". I think its made from steel rather
than cast iron, but i haven't cleaned it yet. I doubt I will be using it
very often. It's covered with some sort of grease and waxed paper. Once I've
used it I want to regrease it. Are then any "greases" that are better than
others for this? I've been told lanolin is the way to go.

Lanolin is a traditional anti-rust grease, pioneered by sailors and riggers from
the age of sail.

I found a convenient albeit odd source for small quantities: The US drugstore
chain CVS carries pure lanolin in a 2 ounce (56 gram) squeeze tube of
CVS-branded "lanolin cream" for about $7. Two ounces is a lot, actually.
Lanolin is used by breastfeeding mothers, so look in the baby area of the CVS
store.


Or, one can buy a full pound in a tub for $9 from suppliers of natural oils and
essences. I've used Camden-Grey Essential Oils in Florida. One can also buy in
bulk for a better price per pound, but a pound is probably a lifetime supply.

http://www.camdengrey.com/essential-oils/Raw-Materials-Lanolin/lanolin.html


Joe Gwinn

My advice: Jump in and start using and enjoying your cast and machined surface plate w/o worrying
over their preservation. Do keep them oiled and / or covered when not in use. Wipe dry before
using for best accuracy. With even a modicum of care, it will outlast you.

I have 2 antique (cast) surface plates both of which were gifts. Both had been abused from the
standpoint that some fools regard any metallic surface as "anvil", Neither had received a requisite
amount of care. They were each put back close to "truth" at one of the large commercial grinders.
Their "grinds" are certainly close enough for all practical work. Although, if I ever have the
courage to learn scraping, they might be good candidates to start on with their precision machined
surfaces.

Bob Swinney
"stu" no where just yet wrote in message ...
I've just bought a "precision plate". I think its made from steel rather
than cast iron, but i haven't cleaned it yet. I doubt I will be using it
very often. It's covered with some sort of grease and waxed paper. Once I've
used it I want to regrease it. Are then any "greases" that are better than
others for this? I've been told lanolin is the way to go.
thanks
Stuart

stu writes:

Are then any "greases" that are better than
others for this?

Define "better". Cheapest tub of bearing grease from Walmart is suitable.
Or the cheapest tub of petrolatum from the drug aisle. I use a spray can
of lithium grease just because it is easier to spread around. These all
have the sulfur largely removed so they smell better, versus the usual
cheap grease.

On Mar 3, 10:39*pm, "stu" no where just yet wrote:
I've just bought a "precision plate". I think its made from steel rather
than cast iron, but i haven't cleaned it yet. I doubt I will be using it
very often. It's covered with some sort of grease and waxed paper. Once I've
used it I want to regrease it. Are then any "greases" that are better than
others for this? I've been told lanolin is the way to go.
thanks
Stuart

LPS 3 is like spray-on cosmoline, would be what I would use just
because I have it. I haven't seen cast iron surface plates for
decades, most everyone in the business has gone to granite, either
pink or black. No worries about rust or burrs with them.

Stan

fired this volley in news:676ff112-8215-4de3-beb0-
:

I haven't seen cast iron surface plates for
decades,

A friend of mine showed me one he had picked up at an industrial auction --
then asked if I wanted it. He only paid $5.00 for it, and didn't know what
it was.

It was 48"x48"x6"... I passed. I don't have any slabs that strong in my
shop! G

LLoyd

wrote in message
...
On Mar 3, 10:39 pm, "stu" no where just yet wrote:
I've just bought a "precision plate". I think its made from steel rather
than cast iron, but i haven't cleaned it yet. I doubt I will be using it
very often. It's covered with some sort of grease and waxed paper. Once
I've
used it I want to regrease it. Are then any "greases" that are better than
others for this? I've been told lanolin is the way to go.
thanks
Stuart

LPS 3 is like spray-on cosmoline, would be what I would use just
because I have it. I haven't seen cast iron surface plates for
decades, most everyone in the business has gone to granite, either
pink or black. No worries about rust or burrs with them.

Stan

Just for curiosity's sake, it's interesting to note that ribbed cast-iron
surface plates are still used at the extreme high-end -- for some gage
qualification work, and, until recently, at least, by ultra-precision
machine tool builders such as Moore Special Tool.

Cast iron has to be kept at a stabilized temperature for that work, and it
has to be high-quality castings that are fully annealed and artificially
aged, but granite can warp in unpredictable ways due to changes in humidity.
Of course, to those people, 3 millionths of an inch of warp is a disaster.
g

BTW, again for gage-qualification-type work, granite can burr. They'll run a
hard Arkansas stone over the plate to remove them. They're really tiny, and
you can't feel them, but granite can turn up a microscopic burr.

--
Ed Huntress

On Mar 4, 9:17*am, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
...
I found a convenient albeit odd source for small quantities: *The US drugstore
chain CVS carries pure lanolin in a 2 ounce (56 gram) squeeze tube of
CVS-branded "lanolin cream" for about $7. *...

Joe Gwinn

Do you suppose they could charge that much if they had to label it
truthfully?

It's the natural grease in sheep wool, a mix cholesterol and fat.

jsw

On Mar 4, 11:54*am, wrote:
...
LPS 3 is like spray-on cosmoline, would be what I would use just
because I have it. *I haven't seen cast iron surface plates for
decades, most everyone in the business has gone to granite, either
pink or black. *No worries about rust or burrs with them.
Stan

LPS-3 is great stuff outdoors, not so good on precision tools. The
waxy film collects dust and grit. When it gets on your hands it
spreads to machine handles, eyeglasses, doorknobs, keyboards etc.
There are several other products that provide enough protection with
less mess.

jsw

wrote in message
...
On Mar 3, 10:39 pm, "stu" no where just yet wrote:
I've just bought a "precision plate". I think its made from steel rather
than cast iron, but i haven't cleaned it yet. I doubt I will be using it
very often. It's covered with some sort of grease and waxed paper. Once
I've
used it I want to regrease it. Are then any "greases" that are better than
others for this? I've been told lanolin is the way to go.
thanks
Stuart

LPS 3 is like spray-on cosmoline, would be what I would use just
because I have it. I haven't seen cast iron surface plates for
decades, most everyone in the business has gone to granite, either
pink or black. No worries about rust or burrs with them.

Stan

The cost of getting granite delivered to Australia is a little high, $32US
for the plate I would like..(from shars)...$622US for delivery. Although
since buying the steel plate I have found a granite one half the size of the
$32US one for $59AU.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

I like this for that:
http://www.itwfpg.com/rustlick/corrosion/631.html

It resembles WD-40 but actually works.


I was surprised how good WD40 really is:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7623384305382/

Not as good as Boeshield T9 but better than other, more expensive
preparations.

I am not sure if it does something to rust as well as acts as a simple
barrier - like converts it to a different oxide (like some of the de-rusting
product, e.g. Evaporust). I could not explain the different appearance of
the WD40-covered piece.

I do not think you have Jig-a-Loo in the US - it is marketed here as a rust
preventative as well as lubricant. In this trial it actually promoted rust!

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

WD40's protection relies, in part, on leaving a film which is hard to wipe off. Before I stopped
using it I couldn't figure out why my micrometer kept closing a thou or two above zero.

Bob Swinney
"Michael Koblic" wrote in message ...

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

I like this for that:
http://www.itwfpg.com/rustlick/corrosion/631.html

It resembles WD-40 but actually works.


I was surprised how good WD40 really is:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2768312...7623384305382/

Not as good as Boeshield T9 but better than other, more expensive
preparations.

I am not sure if it does something to rust as well as acts as a simple
barrier - like converts it to a different oxide (like some of the de-rusting
product, e.g. Evaporust). I could not explain the different appearance of
the WD40-covered piece.

I do not think you have Jig-a-Loo in the US - it is marketed here as a rust
preventative as well as lubricant. In this trial it actually promoted rust!

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Yea - that 4'x4'1/2' slab might be worth something at the scrap yard!
Many many times more than $5 !

Martin

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
fired this volley in news:676ff112-8215-4de3-beb0-
:

I haven't seen cast iron surface plates for
decades,

A friend of mine showed me one he had picked up at an industrial auction --
then asked if I wanted it. He only paid $5.00 for it, and didn't know what
it was.

It was 48"x48"x6"... I passed. I don't have any slabs that strong in my
shop! G

LLoyd

In article ,
Jim Wilkins wrote:

On Mar 4, 9:17*am, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
...
I found a convenient albeit odd source for small quantities: *The US
drugstore
chain CVS carries pure lanolin in a 2 ounce (56 gram) squeeze tube of
CVS-branded "lanolin cream" for about $7. *...

Joe Gwinn

Do you suppose they could charge that much if they had to label it
truthfully?

It is truthfully labeled.

With most items found in drug stores and hardware stores, you are not paying for
the product, you are paying for the large number of small and convenient
containers and the logistics of having them on a store shelf near at hand.


It's the natural grease in sheep wool, a mix of cholesterol and fat.

Yep. Well, there is a lot more to it than just cholesterol and fat, there being
something like 100 different but related chemicals in lanolin, but no matter.


Joe Gwinn

Ed sez: "BTW, again for gage-qualification-type work, granite can burr. They'll run a
hard Arkansas stone over the plate to remove them. They're really tiny, and
you can't feel them, but granite can turn up a microscopic burr."

Many years ago when I worked at Teletype Corp. They would periodically send their surface plates to
a lab for calibration, refurbishment, etc. This was when Telex and other "wire" comms. were
standard and electro-mechanical devices had very close tolerances. I suppose tolerances are even
tighter now, but electronic gauging has probably replaced the need for some surface plates.

Bob Swinney







"Ed Huntress" wrote in message ...

wrote in message
...
On Mar 3, 10:39 pm, "stu" no where just yet wrote:
I've just bought a "precision plate". I think its made from steel rather
than cast iron, but i haven't cleaned it yet. I doubt I will be using it
very often. It's covered with some sort of grease and waxed paper. Once
I've
used it I want to regrease it. Are then any "greases" that are better than
others for this? I've been told lanolin is the way to go.
thanks
Stuart

LPS 3 is like spray-on cosmoline, would be what I would use just
because I have it. I haven't seen cast iron surface plates for
decades, most everyone in the business has gone to granite, either
pink or black. No worries about rust or burrs with them.

Stan

Just for curiosity's sake, it's interesting to note that ribbed cast-iron
surface plates are still used at the extreme high-end -- for some gage
qualification work, and, until recently, at least, by ultra-precision
machine tool builders such as Moore Special Tool.

Cast iron has to be kept at a stabilized temperature for that work, and it
has to be high-quality castings that are fully annealed and artificially
aged, but granite can warp in unpredictable ways due to changes in humidity.
Of course, to those people, 3 millionths of an inch of warp is a disaster.
g



--
Ed Huntress

Robert Swinney wrote:

Many years ago when I worked at Teletype Corp. They would periodically send their surface plates to
a lab for calibration, refurbishment, etc. This was when Telex and other "wire" comms. were
standard and electro-mechanical devices had very close tolerances. I suppose tolerances are even
tighter now, but electronic gauging has probably replaced the need for some surface plates.


I have a Tektronix scope (453B?) that was originally sold to Telex.
They must have bought a bunch of them, because Tektronix silk screened
Telex onto the corner of the front panel when they were built.


It is similar to this, but it is 65 MHz instead of 50

http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/scopes/images/453.jpg


--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'

"Robert Swinney" wrote:

WD40's protection relies, in part, on leaving a film which is hard to wipe off. Before I stopped
using it I couldn't figure out why my micrometer kept closing a thou or two above zero.


Q. What is WD40 good for?

A. Softening up accumulations of old WD40

Wes