(Pardon my re-posting this, but it didn't appear
on my news server)

Hello, all,

We have one of those horrible 3-in-1 machines at
work. (I know better
than letting a piece of CRAP like that in MY
shop.) Anyway, the power
switch has gone bad, it has a burned-up contact.
It is a fairly compact
rotary reversing switch with a center-off
position. It has a part #
HZ10-10P/4. I found one outfit that has the parts
manual online for what
appeas to be the identical machine, and they show
the same part # in their
book.

Does anyone know where to get such a switch? It
would be convenient to
get an identical replacement so I don't have to
drill a bunch of holes, etc.

Thanks,

Jon

On Mon, 19 Oct 2009 12:02:00 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

(Pardon my re-posting this, but it didn't appear
on my news server)
snip

It went through earlier okay, you got three replies which I
have added below:

===
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need switch for 3-in-1 machine
From: "Bill Noble"
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 19:12:34 -0700
--------
try mouser or digikey - they should both have something - or
alternatively
if you can fit a center off DPDT toggle switch just use
that.
"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
Hello, all,

We have one of those horrible 3-in-1 machines at work. (I know better
than letting a piece of CRAP like that in MY shop.) Anyway, the power
switch has gone bad, it has a burned-up contact. It is a fairly compact
rotary reversing switch with a center-off position. It has a part #
HZ10-10P/4. I found one outfit that has the parts manual online for what
appeas to be the identical machine, and they show the same part # in their
book.

Does anyone know where to get such a switch? It would be convenient to
get an identical replacement so I don't have to drill a binch of holes,
etc.

Thanks,

Jon
===
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need switch for 3-in-1 machine
From: JR North
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 08:06:25 -0700
--------

You don't necessarilly ned to replace it. I have repaired
, for instance, a Ford type headliught switch with burned
out low beam contacts by drilling the burned composit
terminal base terminal position, filling the hole with thick
super glue, drilling that to accept a fabbed contact, and
soldering a wire to the contact, going through the drilled
out conector plug.

JR
Dweller in the cellar
===
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need switch for 3-in-1 machine
From: Winston
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 20:08:59 -0700
--------
Jon Elson wrote:

(...)
It has a part #
HZ10-10P/4. I found one outfit that has the parts manual online for what
appeas to be the identical machine, and they show the same part # in their
book.

Does anyone know where to get such a switch? It would be convenient to
get an identical replacement so I don't have to drill a binch of holes,
etc.

Like item 220 in:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...rm&ItemID=5980

Harbor Freight will sell you the part.
It takes a while though (like 6 weeks).

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...borfreight.com
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/cs.taf

--Winston

JR North wrote:
You don't necessarilly need to replace it. I have repaired , for
instance, a Ford type headliught switch with burned out low beam
contacts by drilling the burned composit terminal base terminal
position, filling the hole with thick super glue, drilling that to
accept a fabbed contact, and soldering a wire to the contact, going
through the drilled out conector plug.
It is a rotary-type switch, with rotating fingers
that swipe both sides of the fixed
contact blades. It would be fairly hard to repair
this type of switch.
It has about 6 poles in it, I can't figure out why
they made it so complicated,
but it did the job until now.

I could replace with a heavy-duty toggle switch
and a separate reversing switch.
It would just be easier to replace with the exact
unit. (Then, of course, it would
burn out in 10 years, again.)

Jon

It is a rotary-type switch, with rotating fingers that swipe
both sides of the fixed contact blades. *It would be fairly
hard to repair this type of switch.

It has about 6 poles in it, I can't figure out why they made
it so complicated, but it did the job until now.

I could replace with a heavy-duty toggle switch and a
separate reversing switch. It would just be easier to
replace with the exact unit. *(Then, of course, it would
burn out in 10 years, again.)

I suspect that the mail-order parts replacement from one of the
regular importers (HF, Grizzly, Jet) will be the only way to get an
exact replacement. As far as other solutions go, I think I'd look for
a "drum switch", maybe $100 or so new, but about $30 on ebay, and I've
found them cheap at flea markets and such. Reversing, lots of
contacts, rated to start and stop larger electric motors, used on
lathes and mills for decades. I suspect you'd have to bring the wires
out a hole in the casting and mount the switch on the outside, but
then it'd be much easier to replace or fix from then on.

Getting it hooked up could be a bear, it would require making a
circuit diagram of the existing unit and looking at the new switch
diagrams for how to get the same logical connections. Depending on
how much room you have inside the casting, you might be able to get
the body of the switch inside and just have the handle stick through
the existing hole, but I suspect that it will be too big for that.

As far as drilling extra holes goes, assuming there are some there
already for the exsisting switch and cover plate, it may be simply a
case of drilling the mounting plate of the replacement switch to align
with a couple of the exsisting holes, especially if that means you can
get a "knockout" over the existing handle hole to feed the wires
through.

Hope that gives you some food for thought,
--Glenn Lyford

JR North wrote:
This should do. I have one of these, except it's the model with powered
carriage. The rotary switch should be same as yours.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...ssearch=143352
That is a vaguely similar machine, but looks quite
different. I think it is newer than
ours, which has a big rectangular box with the
belt housing, change gear area and the power
switch in it. The switch could be the same, of
course, just not plainly
obvious. I found a manual online for a machine
that is indentical to ours, and the parts list
shows the same part # as appears on the switch. I
fear this is an archived manual for a machine they
no longer sell, but I will call that outfit to check.

Jon

On Mon, 19 Oct 2009 12:02:00 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

snip
We have one of those horrible 3-in-1 machines at
work. (I know better
than letting a piece of CRAP like that in MY
shop.) Anyway, the power
switch has gone bad, it has a burned-up contact.
It is a fairly compact
rotary reversing switch with a center-off
position. It has a part #
HZ10-10P/4.

snip
Does anyone know where to get such a switch? It
would be convenient to
get an identical replacement so I don't have to
drill a bunch of holes, etc.

That sounds a lot like the switch on my HF 9x20 lathe.
Grizzly has a much better parts replacement setup. See if
this looks like the part you want:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G4000/parts/8

It is part number 9 and they want $33. Gulp!

They have a really nice wiring diagram for the switch in the
manual here (~11mb):

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g4000_m.pdf

You can look and see if any of the Mill/Lathe combos look
familiar he

http://www.grizzly.com/products/cate...spx?key=460000


--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Leon Fisk wrote:
That sounds a lot like the switch on my HF 9x20 lathe.
Grizzly has a much better parts replacement setup. See if
this looks like the part you want:

Thanks for the links. It is definitely NOT the
same switch. It is
actually more convenient, as all the reversing
connections are
internal, while my switch has a MAZE of wires
running all over to
interconnect the poles and swap the polarity of
the start winding.
I am sure I could make this switch work
electrically, but it might or
might not be an easy fit in my machine. I did
find an outfit that
listed the exact switch by part number, so I may
go with that.
On the other hand, that part burned out after 10
years of VERY VERY
light use, so maybe I DON'T want another crummy
switch.

So, how does your switch mount to the cabinet?
Does it have a big
plastic nut that secures it in the hole? I could
probably modify our box to use such a switch.
Ours now has a steel plate that bolts to the box,
and the plate has a small
hole for the switch handle and two screw holes to
mount the switch. Pretty insane
way to build a machine, but they were obviously
using off the shelf parts.

Jon

On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:46:32 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

snip
So, how does your switch mount to the cabinet?
Does it have a big
plastic nut that secures it in the hole?

I'm not sure, took a quick look yesterday. Looks similar to
the Grizzly info, remember mine is from HF though. I'll take
a better look either later today or tomorrow. Try and get
some measurements and such for you.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

these Chinese tools tend to use pretty much the same switches, and there are
some Chinese sellers on ebay that sell a good variety of switches quite
inexpensively - I've used some - they show up quickly and are as advertised

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:46:32 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

snip
So, how does your switch mount to the cabinet?
Does it have a big
plastic nut that secures it in the hole?

I'm not sure, took a quick look yesterday. Looks similar to
the Grizzly info, remember mine is from HF though. I'll take
a better look either later today or tomorrow. Try and get
some measurements and such for you.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 14:32:28 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:46:32 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

snip
So, how does your switch mount to the cabinet?
Does it have a big
plastic nut that secures it in the hole?

Took a better look and some pictures.

The switch is about 2-1/4 inches long (body), 1-3/4 inches
across (not counting lugs), 1-3/16 inches between two
mounting screws and about a 3/8 inch hole is used. The
pictures should make more sense of it:

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/face.jpg
http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/side1.jpg
http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/side2.jpg
http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/side3.jpg
http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/mount1.jpg
http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/mount2.jpg

This is from the HF 45861 9x20 lathe. It is about 3 years
old. The escutcheon just sets/slips over the blue plastic
piece the screws go through. The knob uses a slotted set
screw. Notice the jumpers used on the screw terminals. I
don't know if those would come with the switch or not. You
may have to make/install them yourself. The HF manual can be
found he

http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals...5999/45861.pdf

It leaves much to be desired...

This switch is subtly different than the one pictured in the
Grizzly manual. Suspect it is basically the same thing
though (shrug).

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 14:32:28 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:46:32 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

snip
So, how does your switch mount to the cabinet?
Does it have a big
plastic nut that secures it in the hole?

One more thing to add. I found this pdf for the switch
itself, which is like mine (1.1mb):

http://www.kedu.cn/PDF/5/p77-78zh-b.pdf

My switch had "Kedu" and "ZH-B" on it (among other
markings), wasn't sure this was useful till I did some
searching.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Mon, 26 Oct 2009 14:40:59 -0400, the infamous Leon Fisk
scrawled the following:

The HF manual can be found he

http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals...5999/45861.pdf

It leaves much to be desired...

Yeah, most of the Chiwanese manuals consist of:

A) 1 picture of the tool

B) 13 pages of (absolutely useless, but the speaking weasels feel
better for it) textual safety warnings and cautions *plus* pictures of
all the safety warning and caution stickers!

C) 8 sentences w/ pics like "This bar [pic] fit here [pic] this size
screw [pic]" (That's right, many Asian technical writers _still_
haven't discovered words like "fits" yet.)

D) 3 sentences w/ pics like "This tool [pic] fit here. [pic]"

E) An exploded diagram (VERY useful) and an abbreviated parts list.


I like 'em for the fun Chinglish (especially fun when the Japanese
have a document translated into Chinese, then English.) they use and
the exploded diagram, which I use when the assembly instructions have
failed.

--
The only reason I would take up exercising is
so that I could hear heavy breathing again.