(Pardon my re-posting this, but it didn't appear
on my news server)

Hello, all,

We have one of those horrible 3-in-1 machines at
work. (I know better
than letting a piece of CRAP like that in MY
shop.) Anyway, the power
switch has gone bad, it has a burned-up contact.
It is a fairly compact
rotary reversing switch with a center-off
position. It has a part #
HZ10-10P/4. I found one outfit that has the parts
manual online for what
appeas to be the identical machine, and they show
the same part # in their
book.

Does anyone know where to get such a switch? It
would be convenient to
get an identical replacement so I don't have to
drill a bunch of holes, etc.

Thanks,

Jon

On Mon, 19 Oct 2009 12:02:00 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

(Pardon my re-posting this, but it didn't appear
on my news server)
snip

It went through earlier okay, you got three replies which I
have added below:

===
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need switch for 3-in-1 machine
From: "Bill Noble"
Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 19:12:34 -0700
--------
try mouser or digikey - they should both have something - or
alternatively
if you can fit a center off DPDT toggle switch just use
that.
"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
Hello, all,

We have one of those horrible 3-in-1 machines at work. (I know better
than letting a piece of CRAP like that in MY shop.) Anyway, the power
switch has gone bad, it has a burned-up contact. It is a fairly compact
rotary reversing switch with a center-off position. It has a part #
HZ10-10P/4. I found one outfit that has the parts manual online for what
appeas to be the identical machine, and they show the same part # in their
book.

Does anyone know where to get such a switch? It would be convenient to
get an identical replacement so I don't have to drill a binch of holes,
etc.

Thanks,

Jon
===
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need switch for 3-in-1 machine
From: JR North
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 08:06:25 -0700
--------

You don't necessarilly ned to replace it. I have repaired
, for instance, a Ford type headliught switch with burned
out low beam contacts by drilling the burned composit
terminal base terminal position, filling the hole with thick
super glue, drilling that to accept a fabbed contact, and
soldering a wire to the contact, going through the drilled
out conector plug.

JR
Dweller in the cellar
===
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking
Subject: Need switch for 3-in-1 machine
From: Winston
Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 20:08:59 -0700
--------
Jon Elson wrote:

(...)
It has a part #
HZ10-10P/4. I found one outfit that has the parts manual online for what
appeas to be the identical machine, and they show the same part # in their
book.

Does anyone know where to get such a switch? It would be convenient to
get an identical replacement so I don't have to drill a binch of holes,
etc.

Like item 220 in:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...rm&ItemID=5980

Harbor Freight will sell you the part.
It takes a while though (like 6 weeks).

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...borfreight.com
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/cs.taf

--Winston

On Mon, 19 Oct 2009 12:02:00 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

snip
We have one of those horrible 3-in-1 machines at
work. (I know better
than letting a piece of CRAP like that in MY
shop.) Anyway, the power
switch has gone bad, it has a burned-up contact.
It is a fairly compact
rotary reversing switch with a center-off
position. It has a part #
HZ10-10P/4.

snip
Does anyone know where to get such a switch? It
would be convenient to
get an identical replacement so I don't have to
drill a bunch of holes, etc.

That sounds a lot like the switch on my HF 9x20 lathe.
Grizzly has a much better parts replacement setup. See if
this looks like the part you want:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G4000/parts/8

It is part number 9 and they want $33. Gulp!

They have a really nice wiring diagram for the switch in the
manual here (~11mb):

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g4000_m.pdf

You can look and see if any of the Mill/Lathe combos look
familiar he

http://www.grizzly.com/products/cate...spx?key=460000


--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Leon Fisk wrote:
That sounds a lot like the switch on my HF 9x20 lathe.
Grizzly has a much better parts replacement setup. See if
this looks like the part you want:

Thanks for the links. It is definitely NOT the
same switch. It is
actually more convenient, as all the reversing
connections are
internal, while my switch has a MAZE of wires
running all over to
interconnect the poles and swap the polarity of
the start winding.
I am sure I could make this switch work
electrically, but it might or
might not be an easy fit in my machine. I did
find an outfit that
listed the exact switch by part number, so I may
go with that.
On the other hand, that part burned out after 10
years of VERY VERY
light use, so maybe I DON'T want another crummy
switch.

So, how does your switch mount to the cabinet?
Does it have a big
plastic nut that secures it in the hole? I could
probably modify our box to use such a switch.
Ours now has a steel plate that bolts to the box,
and the plate has a small
hole for the switch handle and two screw holes to
mount the switch. Pretty insane
way to build a machine, but they were obviously
using off the shelf parts.

Jon

On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:46:32 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

snip
So, how does your switch mount to the cabinet?
Does it have a big
plastic nut that secures it in the hole?

I'm not sure, took a quick look yesterday. Looks similar to
the Grizzly info, remember mine is from HF though. I'll take
a better look either later today or tomorrow. Try and get
some measurements and such for you.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

these Chinese tools tend to use pretty much the same switches, and there are
some Chinese sellers on ebay that sell a good variety of switches quite
inexpensively - I've used some - they show up quickly and are as advertised

"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:46:32 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

snip
So, how does your switch mount to the cabinet?
Does it have a big
plastic nut that secures it in the hole?

I'm not sure, took a quick look yesterday. Looks similar to
the Grizzly info, remember mine is from HF though. I'll take
a better look either later today or tomorrow. Try and get
some measurements and such for you.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 14:32:28 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:46:32 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

snip
So, how does your switch mount to the cabinet?
Does it have a big
plastic nut that secures it in the hole?

Took a better look and some pictures.

The switch is about 2-1/4 inches long (body), 1-3/4 inches
across (not counting lugs), 1-3/16 inches between two
mounting screws and about a 3/8 inch hole is used. The
pictures should make more sense of it:

http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/face.jpg
http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/side1.jpg
http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/side2.jpg
http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/side3.jpg
http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/mount1.jpg
http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/mount2.jpg

This is from the HF 45861 9x20 lathe. It is about 3 years
old. The escutcheon just sets/slips over the blue plastic
piece the screws go through. The knob uses a slotted set
screw. Notice the jumpers used on the screw terminals. I
don't know if those would come with the switch or not. You
may have to make/install them yourself. The HF manual can be
found he

http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals...5999/45861.pdf

It leaves much to be desired...

This switch is subtly different than the one pictured in the
Grizzly manual. Suspect it is basically the same thing
though (shrug).

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Mon, 26 Oct 2009 14:40:59 -0400, the infamous Leon Fisk
scrawled the following:

The HF manual can be found he

http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals...5999/45861.pdf

It leaves much to be desired...

Yeah, most of the Chiwanese manuals consist of:

A) 1 picture of the tool

B) 13 pages of (absolutely useless, but the speaking weasels feel
better for it) textual safety warnings and cautions *plus* pictures of
all the safety warning and caution stickers!

C) 8 sentences w/ pics like "This bar [pic] fit here [pic] this size
screw [pic]" (That's right, many Asian technical writers _still_
haven't discovered words like "fits" yet.)

D) 3 sentences w/ pics like "This tool [pic] fit here. [pic]"

E) An exploded diagram (VERY useful) and an abbreviated parts list.


I like 'em for the fun Chinglish (especially fun when the Japanese
have a document translated into Chinese, then English.) they use and
the exploded diagram, which I use when the assembly instructions have
failed.

--
The only reason I would take up exercising is
so that I could hear heavy breathing again.

On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 14:32:28 -0400, Leon Fisk
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:46:32 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

snip
So, how does your switch mount to the cabinet?
Does it have a big
plastic nut that secures it in the hole?

One more thing to add. I found this pdf for the switch
itself, which is like mine (1.1mb):

http://www.kedu.cn/PDF/5/p77-78zh-b.pdf

My switch had "Kedu" and "ZH-B" on it (among other
markings), wasn't sure this was useful till I did some
searching.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email