stryped wrote:

I got it working last night by just lubig up the shaft. I have one
question though.

How close is "good enough" when dealing with an engine such as a
tiller like this in terms of the bore and crank journals being
perfect? I would like to attempt to rebuild it because I have never
doen so before but I don’t have the measuring equipment to check those
two items. Can I go over the crank jhournal with 00 steel wool to
clean it up to see what it looks like? I noticed just visually it
looked ok, however there is a very small area of "material" that I
cant seem to get off. Like maybe it was aluminum left over from the
connecting rod?

I am just curious as to what level of preceision is needed for a
tiller that is only used ocassionally in the summer. But at the same
time I would not want to spend the time and effort and have the thing
blow up the first time I used it.

With the engine assembled, take hold of the crankshaft and try to wobble
it in a radial direction. If it moves noticeably, there's more wear than
there ought to be in the bearings.

You can do the same with the piston. Take off the cylinder head
(assuming that it's not a blind bore), put your fingers on the piston
and try to move it from side to side. Any noticeable movement of the
piston indicates that there's a lot of wear in the engine. It's best to
do this in a direction perpendicular to the crankshaft, as this is the
direction in which there will be most wear. Wear will probably be worse
at the top of the cylinder due to there being less oil reaching the top.

This method is simpler than trying to use a feeler gauge. Use of a
feeler gauge in a cylindrical gap is a bit questionable anyway.

Best wishes,

Chris

stryped wrote:
On Nov 28, 11:22 pm, Christopher Tidy
wrote:

stryped wrote:

I got it working last night by just lubig up the shaft. I have one
question though.

How close is "good enough" when dealing with an engine such as a
tiller like this in terms of the bore and crank journals being
perfect? I would like to attempt to rebuild it because I have never
doen so before but I don’t have the measuring equipment to check those
two items. Can I go over the crank jhournal with 00 steel wool to
clean it up to see what it looks like? I noticed just visually it
looked ok, however there is a very small area of "material" that I
cant seem to get off. Like maybe it was aluminum left over from the
connecting rod?

I am just curious as to what level of preceision is needed for a
tiller that is only used ocassionally in the summer. But at the same
time I would not want to spend the time and effort and have the thing
blow up the first time I used it.

With the engine assembled, take hold of the crankshaft and try to wobble
it in a radial direction. If it moves noticeably, there's more wear than
there ought to be in the bearings.

You can do the same with the piston. Take off the cylinder head
(assuming that it's not a blind bore), put your fingers on the piston
and try to move it from side to side. Any noticeable movement of the
piston indicates that there's a lot of wear in the engine. It's best to
do this in a direction perpendicular to the crankshaft, as this is the
direction in which there will be most wear. Wear will probably be worse
at the top of the cylinder due to there being less oil reaching the top.

This method is simpler than trying to use a feeler gauge. Use of a
feeler gauge in a cylindrical gap is a bit questionable anyway.

Best wishes,

Chris


I have the engine disassembled but I can push and pull on the crank
and there is some movement, but again that may be because it is
disassembled. I will try the piston trick.

Some parts may not be properly supported with the engine disassembled.
If you've got the time, I would reassemble it.

You could also test the compression while the engine is assembled. I
should have mentioned this before. There should be a sharp increase in
the resistance to turning the engine over once every two rotations. If
you don't get that increase in resistance, you have a problem, although
it could be one of several things. Hissing noises on the compression
stroke are a sign of leakage, and are a bad thing.

So guys is it worth me trying to rebuild or not? I did find a briggs
intek 6.5 horse for about 250 bucks.

It's difficult to tell you without seeing the engine. It only takes a
little wear to make an engine unusable, and this wear is not visible on
the outside. So a badly worn engine can look great, and vice versa.

I think the best thing you can do is to ask around and see if you can
find someone knowledgeable in your area who can stop by and look at the
engine.

Best wishes,

Chris

Hey,

I got it working last night by just lubig up the shaft. I have one
question though.

How close is "good enough" when dealing with an engine such as a
tiller like this in terms of the bore and crank journals being
perfect? I would like to attempt to rebuild it because I have never
doen so before but I don’t have the measuring equipment to check those
two items. Can I go over the crank jhournal with 00 steel wool to
clean it up to see what it looks like? I noticed just visually it
looked ok, however there is a very small area of "material" that I
cant seem to get off. Like maybe it was aluminum left over from the
connecting rod?

I am just curious as to what level of preceision is needed for a
tiller that is only used ocassionally in the summer. But at the same
time I would not want to spend the time and effort and have the thing
blow up the first time I used it.

stryped fired this volley in news:4bc394f5-
:

How close is "good enough" when dealing with an engine such as a
tiller like this in terms of the bore and crank journals being
perfect? I would like to attempt to rebuild it because I have never
doen so before but I don't have the measuring equipment to check
those
two items.

Of course you do. Go down to any automotive parts supplier and buy a
coil of "PlastiGauge" (maybe three, in different sizes). You remove a
bearing cap, lay a strip of the plastic cord inside the cap, and clamp
it back on.

When you again remove it, you can compare the width of the crushed
plastic to the micrometer indices on the card supplied with the
PlastiGauge to determine your bearing clearance.

LLoyd

On Dec 2, 8:18*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:4bc394f5-
:



How close is "good enough" when dealing with an engine such as a
tiller like this in terms of the bore and crank journals being
perfect? I would like to attempt to rebuild it because I have never
doen so before but I don't have the measuring equipment to check
those
two items.

Of course you do. *Go down to any automotive parts supplier and buy a
coil of "PlastiGauge" (maybe three, in different sizes). *You remove a
bearing cap, lay a strip of the plastic cord inside the cap, and clamp
it back on.

When you again remove it, you can compare the width of the crushed
plastic to the micrometer indices on the card supplied with the
PlastiGauge to determine your bearing clearance.

LLoyd

This engine uses no rod bearings I dont think and the rod that was in
it disintegrated at the bottom so there is not any "rod cap" left.

stryped fired this volley in news:4f60f945-
:

This engine uses no rod bearings I dont think and the rod that was
in
it disintegrated at the bottom so there is not any "rod cap" left.



So WTF? You're fixing the starter on an engine that YOU couldn't make
run on a bet?

If you can't figure out a Bendix, how to you expect to rebuild the
engine?

(Oh... I know: You're going to ask us to do it by remote control --
you're the waldo, and we're the hands...)

LLoyd

On Dec 2, 9:30*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:4f60f945-
:



This engine uses no rod bearings I dont think and the rod that was
in
it disintegrated at the bottom so there is not any "rod cap" left.

So WTF? *You're fixing the starter on an engine that YOU couldn't make
run on a bet?

If you can't figure out a Bendix, how to you expect to rebuild the
engine?

(Oh... I know: *You're going to ask us to do it by remote control --
you're the waldo, and we're the hands...)

LLoyd

What do you mean? I have the enigne in my garage. I fixed the starter
thanks to you guys help last night. I was hoping all I needed was a
connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this
is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).

stryped wrote:
(...)

What do you mean? I have the enigne in my garage. I fixed the starter
thanks to you guys help last night. I was hoping all I needed was a
connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this
is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).

If you are *really* bored and need a long term hobby, by all means repair.

If you want to till soil, replace the motor.
As Karl said, make an adapter if necessary and git'er done.

--Winston

stryped fired this volley in news:251da396-eadf-
:

This engine uses no rod bearings

BTW... horse crap. The rod bearings may be "self" bearings, but they're
bearings nonetheless.

LLoyd

On Dec 2, 11:13*am, stryped wrote:
... I was hoping all I needed was a
connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this
is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).-

Buy a small engine repair book. The info I quoted you on carburetors
came from the B&S manual, I'm not so wise that I don't need one. I buy
a set of the factory manuals with each new car.

In article
,
Jim Wilkins wrote:

On Dec 2, 11:13*am, stryped wrote:
... I was hoping all I needed was a
connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this
is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).-

Buy a small engine repair book. The info I quoted you on carburetors
came from the B&S manual, I'm not so wise that I don't need one. I buy
a set of the factory manuals with each new car.

A little OT, but often you can negotiate a factory shop manual (or more
often manual set these days) into the deal when you buy a new car.

It's sure worth trying in any case.

Erik

On Tue, 02 Dec 2008 10:49:40 -0600, the infamous "Lloyd E.
Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com scrawled the following:

stryped fired this volley in news:251da396-eadf-
:

This engine uses no rod bearings

BTW... horse crap. The rod bearings may be "self" bearings, but they're
bearings nonetheless.

PDFTFT.


--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all
progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

On Dec 2, 10:41*am, Winston wrote:
stryped wrote:

(...)

What do you mean? I have the enigne in my garage. I fixed the starter
thanks to you guys help last night. I was hoping all I needed was a
connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this
is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).

If you are *really* bored and need a long term hobby, by all means repair..

If you want to till soil, replace the motor.
As Karl said, make an adapter if necessary and git'er done.

--Winston

I wont need to "till soil" until summer but are you sayign this is a
waste of time?

By the way, to those who dont believe there are bearings, here is a
schematic: http://www.outdoordistributors.com/p...60-75413J-PART

They may be imbedded in the rod, I dont know but I dont see any on
here like go in a car enigine.

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

PDFTFT.



yeah... I should know better, Larry.

LLoyd

stryped wrote:
On Dec 2, 10:41 am, Winston wrote:

stryped wrote:

(...)


What do you mean? I have the enigne in my garage. I fixed the starter
thanks to you guys help last night. I was hoping all I needed was a
connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this
is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).

If you are *really* bored and need a long term hobby, by all means repair.

If you want to till soil, replace the motor.
As Karl said, make an adapter if necessary and git'er done.

--Winston


I wont need to "till soil" until summer but are you sayign this is a
waste of time?

By the way, to those who dont believe there are bearings, here is a
schematic: http://www.outdoordistributors.com/p...60-75413J-PART

They may be imbedded in the rod, I dont know but I dont see any on
here like go in a car enigine.

Various aluminium alloys have been developed over the years which are
capable of being fashioned into a conrod and have suitable
characteristics to act as a bearing so no bearing shells like you would
find in a car. For a non demanding app like the tiller engine the conrod
material does the job, it saves money.

On Dec 2, 12:46*pm, David Billington
wrote:
stryped wrote:
On Dec 2, 10:41 am, Winston wrote:

stryped wrote:

(...)

What do you mean? I have the enigne in my garage. I fixed the starter
thanks to you guys help last night. I was hoping all I needed was a
connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this
is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).

If you are *really* bored and need a long term hobby, by all means repair.

If you want to till soil, replace the motor.
As Karl said, make an adapter if necessary and git'er done.

--Winston

I wont need to "till soil" until summer but are you sayign this is a
waste of time?

By the way, to those who dont believe there are bearings, here is a
schematic:http://www.outdoordistributors.com/p...H-MODEL-H60-75...

They may *be imbedded in the rod, I dont know but I dont see any on
here like go in a car enigine.

Various aluminium alloys have been developed over the years which are
capable of *being fashioned into a conrod and have suitable
characteristics to act as a bearing so no bearing shells like you would
find in a car. For a non demanding app like the tiller engine the conrod
material does the job, it saves money.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I am really struggeling with this one. To buy another engine or
rebuild. Cost is a major concern but so is my being able to "tinker"
with things. I wont need the tiller until summer, but I plan on having
a big garden including a pumpkin patch for the kids.

I found a 6.5 horse Briggs that will bolt up to the old tiller for 235
plus 20 bucks shipping. It does not have electric start though and the
throttle is on the engine.

I do like to tinker with things and even went to harbor freight over
thanksgiving and bought a cylinder hone and piston ring expander. It
was not too much.

Part of me wants to go for it and put a new rod, gasket and rings in
the old engine, paint it etc, a large part of me is afraid I would put
all that time and effort into it and it will throw a rod after the
first hour of using it.

stryped wrote:
Hey,

I got it working last night by just lubig up the shaft. I have one
question though.

Good, Now clean off all the lube. The units used on small engines are
designed to run clean and dry. any lube will attract dust and dirt and
cause it to stick.


How close is "good enough" when dealing with an engine such as a
tiller like this in terms of the bore and crank journals being
perfect? I would like to attempt to rebuild it because I have never
doen so before but I don’t have the measuring equipment to check those
two items. Can I go over the crank jhournal with 00 steel wool to
clean it up to see what it looks like? I noticed just visually it
looked ok, however there is a very small area of "material" that I
cant seem to get off. Like maybe it was aluminum left over from the
connecting rod?

REAL simple, muriatic acid will dissolve the aluminum off the crank.



I am just curious as to what level of preceision is needed for a
tiller that is only used ocassionally in the summer. But at the same
time I would not want to spend the time and effort and have the thing
blow up the first time I used it.

However, being this is a Tecumseh H60 I would just toss it and buy a
GOOD engine.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

On Dec 2, 1:34*pm, "Steve W." wrote:
stryped wrote:
Hey,

I got it working last night by just lubig up the shaft. I have one
question though.

Good, Now clean off all the lube. The units used on small engines are
designed to run clean and dry. any lube will attract dust and dirt and
cause it to stick.



How close is "good enough" when dealing with an engine such as a
tiller like this in terms of the bore and crank journals being
perfect? I would like to attempt to rebuild it because I have never
doen so before but I don’t have the measuring equipment to check those
two items. Can I go over the crank jhournal with 00 steel wool to
clean it up to see what it looks like? I noticed just visually it
looked ok, however there is a very small area of "material" that I
cant seem to get off. Like maybe it was aluminum left over from the
connecting rod?

REAL simple, muriatic acid will dissolve the aluminum off the crank.



I am just curious as to what level of preceision is needed for a
tiller that is only used ocassionally in the summer. But at the same
time I would not want to spend the time and effort and have the thing
blow up the first time I used it.

However, being this is a Tecumseh H60 I would just toss it and buy a
GOOD engine.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

Is the HH60 not a good engine?

On Tue, 02 Dec 2008 08:41:01 -0800, Winston
wrote:

stryped wrote:
(...)

What do you mean? I have the enigne in my garage. I fixed the starter
thanks to you guys help last night. I was hoping all I needed was a
connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this
is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).

If you are *really* bored and need a long term hobby, by all means repair.

If you want to till soil, replace the motor.
As Karl said, make an adapter if necessary and git'er done.

--Winston
I'd be fixing it unless I had a spare that was a close fit right at
hand. Not rocket science. Buy a replacement rod and piston ass'y and
go for it.

stryped fired this volley in news:8c369468-
:

Is the HH60 not a good engine?


Let's see, now... The guy says, "Scrap it and put on a GOOD motor."

There could be two possibilities --

one, he knows less than you do about engines (not likely), or

two, he knows it's a low-end, bushed-crank piece of pressure-cast crap
pot metal that was intended for consumer-grade WallyWorld tools
designed to last two seasons in actual use.

Which would you guess?

LLoyd

On Tue, 02 Dec 2008 10:00:38 -0800, Erik wrote:

In article
,
Jim Wilkins wrote:

On Dec 2, 11:13Â*am, stryped wrote:
... I was hoping all I needed was a
connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this
is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).-

Buy a small engine repair book. The info I quoted you on carburetors
came from the B&S manual, I'm not so wise that I don't need one. I buy
a set of the factory manuals with each new car.

A little OT, but often you can negotiate a factory shop manual (or more
often manual set these days) into the deal when you buy a new car.

It's sure worth trying in any case.

Erik
Except in many cases the dealer doesn't stock them and nor does the
parts depot. The manuals are provided by a third party and you need to
order them direct from that company - can't remember the name
off-hand.

SOME are manufacturer supplied and available from the dealer - and
some manufacturer supplied also need to be ordered direcr from the
"publications department" - like Ford.

On Dec 2, 3:11*pm, stryped wrote:
On Dec 2, 1:34*pm, "Steve W." wrote:
...
However, being this is a Tecumseh H60 I would just toss it and buy a
GOOD engine.

Is the HH60 not a good engine?

HH means Horizontal Heavy duty (cast iron), a better engine (?) than
the H60. The rebuilding instructions are long and complicated, don't
guess.

On Nov 28, 11:22*pm, Christopher Tidy
wrote:
stryped wrote:
I got it working last night by just lubig up the shaft. I have one
question though.

How close is "good enough" when dealing with an engine such as a
tiller like this in terms of the bore and crank journals being
perfect? I would like to attempt to rebuild it because I have never
doen so before but I don’t have the measuring equipment to check those
two items. Can I go over the crank jhournal with 00 steel wool to
clean it up to see what it looks like? I noticed just visually it
looked ok, however there is a very small area of "material" that I
cant seem to get off. Like maybe it was aluminum left over from the
connecting rod?

I am just curious as to what level of preceision is needed for a
tiller that is only used ocassionally in the summer. But at the same
time I would not want to spend the time and effort and have the thing
blow up the first time I used it.

With the engine assembled, take hold of the crankshaft and try to wobble
it in a radial direction. If it moves noticeably, there's more wear than
there ought to be in the bearings.

You can do the same with the piston. Take off the cylinder head
(assuming that it's not a blind bore), put your fingers on the piston
and try to move it from side to side. Any noticeable movement of the
piston indicates that there's a lot of wear in the engine. It's best to
do this in a direction perpendicular to the crankshaft, as this is the
direction in which there will be most wear. Wear will probably be worse
at the top of the cylinder due to there being less oil reaching the top.

This method is simpler than trying to use a feeler gauge. Use of a
feeler gauge in a cylindrical gap is a bit questionable anyway.

Best wishes,

Chris

I have the engine disassembled but I can push and pull on the crank
and there is some movement, but again that may be because it is
disassembled. I will try the piston trick.

So guys is it worth me trying to rebuild or not? I did find a briggs
intek 6.5 horse for about 250 bucks. It does not have electric start.

Again, part of me wants to try it. I like learning. I have read some
old books I have on rebuilding small block chevys (which I know is
somethign different.) But again, I think a rod is 40 bucks and that is
not counting rings and a gasket set at a minmum.

On Dec 2, 4:45*pm, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Dec 2, 3:11*pm, stryped wrote:

On Dec 2, 1:34*pm, "Steve W." wrote:
...
However, being this is a Tecumseh H60 I would just toss it and buy a
GOOD engine.

Is the HH60 not a good engine?

HH means Horizontal Heavy duty (cast iron), a better engine (?) than
the H60. The rebuilding instructions are long and complicated, don't
guess.

Do you think older cast iron engines such as this are better than the
newer aluminum ones? By the way, if someone can help give me and idea
on how to get the crank easily out, I have acess at work to a
micrometer and/or caliper. I am assuming I can use a puller to take
the flywheel off and with that off the crank will slide out?

On Dec 2, 3:13*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 02 Dec 2008 08:41:01 -0800, Winston
wrote:

stryped wrote:
(...)

What do you mean? I have the enigne in my garage. I fixed the starter
thanks to you guys help last night. I was hoping all I needed was a
connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this
is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).

If you are *really* bored and need a long term hobby, by all means repair.

stryped wrote:

Is the HH60 not a good engine?

Aw heck, look around for the nearest ARA automotive rebuilder. He might
not sell you the parts, but he'll boil, bore and hone for 30 to 60
bucks. And he will give you the skinny on the parts needed and where to
get them.

My guess is you're looking at a .010 over piston and rod, maybe valves.
If the oil never got changed, then maybe a crank and cam.

I rebuilt a Kohler K (12hp) 8 years ago on my dads Case 195 and the
sumbitch ran so well I got the parts to go .020 over in the future. Dam
thing outruns my 18hp Briggs twin, go figure...

Don't forget to tip the ARA guy for his advice and measuring things...

Matt

"stryped" wrote in message
...
Hey,

I got it working last night by just lubig up the shaft. I have one
question though.

How close is "good enough" when dealing with an engine such as a
tiller like this in terms of the bore and crank journals being
perfect? I would like to attempt to rebuild it because I have never
doen so before but I don’t have the measuring equipment to check those
two items. Can I go over the crank jhournal with 00 steel wool to
clean it up to see what it looks like? I noticed just visually it
looked ok, however there is a very small area of "material" that I
cant seem to get off. Like maybe it was aluminum left over from the
connecting rod?

I am just curious as to what level of preceision is needed for a
tiller that is only used ocassionally in the summer. But at the same
time I would not want to spend the time and effort and have the thing
blow up the first time I used it.

You have received a lot of good advice about rebuilding your engine. I will
probably get a lot of flak for it, but here is another thought. The
connecting rod needs to turn on the crankshaft without any binding
whatsoever. It also needs to not have really noticeable up-and-down
clearance. If you get the crankshaft journal cleaned and polished you can
install a new rod and see how it fits. Here's the highly controversial part:
If it seems a little too loose, you can carefully file or sand the rod or
cap to tighten it a little. Put the sandpaper on a good flat surface if you
want to sand it. Work slowly and carefully, check often, and do not take
off so much that there is any binding. Leave just a little looseness all the
way around.

These little engines will often run and give long service when badly worn or
otherwise not up to new standards. If you have the time and inclination,
have fun with it.

Don Young

On Tue, 2 Dec 2008 18:51:26 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Dec 2, 3:13Â*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 02 Dec 2008 08:41:01 -0800, Winston
wrote:

stryped wrote:
(...)

What do you mean? I have the enigne in my garage. I fixed the starter
thanks to you guys help last night. I was hoping all I needed was a
connecting rod but I wanted everyone elses advice as to weather this
is a good idea or not. (To rebuild verses replace).

If you are *really* bored and need a long term hobby, by all means repair.

If you want to till soil, replace the motor.
As Karl said, make an adapter if necessary and git'er done.

--Winston

Â* I'd be fixing it unless I had a spare that was a close fit right at
hand. Not rocket science. Â*Buy a replacement rod and piston ass'y and
go for it.

Does a person typically need to use a new piston?
You MIGHT get away without - but when a rod goes it can be because of
poor lubrication or overheating - which will (or may) have affected
the piston as well

On Tue, 02 Dec 2008 12:36:18 -0600, the infamous "Lloyd E.
Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com scrawled the following:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

PDFTFT.



yeah... I should know better, Larry.

The half-dozen folks who repeatedly reply to him should, huh?

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one
persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all
progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

"stryped" wrote in message
...
Hey,

I got it working last night by just lubig up the shaft. I have one
question though.

How close is "good enough" when dealing with an engine such as a
tiller like this in terms of the bore and crank journals being
perfect? I would like to attempt to rebuild it because I have never
doen so before but I don’t have the measuring equipment to check those
two items. Can I go over the crank jhournal with 00 steel wool to
clean it up to see what it looks like? I noticed just visually it
looked ok, however there is a very small area of "material" that I
cant seem to get off. Like maybe it was aluminum left over from the
connecting rod?

I am just curious as to what level of preceision is needed for a
tiller that is only used ocassionally in the summer. But at the same
time I would not want to spend the time and effort and have the thing
blow up the first time I used it.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Really the best thing to do is have somebody measure the cylinder bore, and
the crankpin journal. If both are way out of spec you are wasting your time.
Greg

"stryped" wrote in message
...
On Dec 2, 4:45 pm, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Dec 2, 3:11 pm, stryped wrote:

On Dec 2, 1:34 pm, "Steve W." wrote:
...
However, being this is a Tecumseh H60 I would just toss it and buy a
GOOD engine.

Is the HH60 not a good engine?

HH means Horizontal Heavy duty (cast iron), a better engine (?) than
the H60. The rebuilding instructions are long and complicated, don't
guess.

Do you think older cast iron engines such as this are better than the
newer aluminum ones? By the way, if someone can help give me and idea
on how to get the crank easily out, I have acess at work to a
micrometer and/or caliper. I am assuming I can use a puller to take
the flywheel off and with that off the crank will slide out?

Yes.
Greg

On Tue, 02 Dec 2008 14:34:13 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

Good, Now clean off all the lube. The units used on small engines are
designed to run clean and dry. any lube will attract dust and dirt and
cause it to stick.

Good advice on a tiller, perhaps not so good for a snowblower.

stryped fired this volley in news:a314c444-
:


Do you think older cast iron engines such as this are better than
the
newer aluminum ones? By the way, if someone can help give me and
idea
on how to get the crank easily out, I have acess at work to a
micrometer and/or caliper. I am assuming I can use a puller to take
the flywheel off and with that off the crank will slide out?



If the other poster was correct about the "HH" version, instead of the
"H" version discussed earlier, then yes; generally cast iron engines
are of better durability than aluminum ones -- perhaps with the
exception of Honda engines.

But it's troubling that a "heavy duty" engine would have a self-
bearing rod...

I have a vintage 1962 Briggs updraft 8 on a genset. It cranks first
time, every time.

LLoyd

On Dec 2, 8:59*pm, matthew maguire wrote:
stryped wrote:

Is the HH60 not a good engine?

Aw heck, look around for the nearest ARA automotive rebuilder. He might
not sell you the parts, but he'll boil, bore and hone for 30 to 60
bucks. And he will give you the skinny on the parts needed and where to
get them.

My guess is you're looking at a .010 over piston and rod, maybe valves.
If the oil never got changed, then maybe a crank and cam.

I rebuilt a Kohler K (12hp) 8 years ago on my dads Case 195 and the
sumbitch ran so well I got the parts to go .020 over in the future. Dam
thing outruns my 18hp Briggs twin, go figure...

Don't forget to tip the ARA guy for his advice and measuring things...

Matt

I guess one problem is the parts for this engine are discontinued. The
only rods and rings available I could find are standard size.

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:a314c444-
:

Do you think older cast iron engines such as this are better than
the
newer aluminum ones? By the way, if someone can help give me and
idea
on how to get the crank easily out, I have acess at work to a
micrometer and/or caliper. I am assuming I can use a puller to take
the flywheel off and with that off the crank will slide out?



If the other poster was correct about the "HH" version, instead of the
"H" version discussed earlier, then yes; generally cast iron engines
are of better durability than aluminum ones -- perhaps with the
exception of Honda engines.

But it's troubling that a "heavy duty" engine would have a self-
bearing rod...

I have a vintage 1962 Briggs updraft 8 on a genset. It cranks first
time, every time.

LLoyd

HH means an iron cylinder liner horizontal engine.

--
Steve W.

"Steve W." fired this volley in news:gh69gd$n9e$1
@aioe.org:

HH means an iron cylinder liner horizontal engine.



So, in Teh-hili, "Heavy Duty" just means the rings and cylinder don't
wear out as fast as on their other more-junky motors?

LLoyd

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Steve W." fired this volley in news:gh69gd$n9e$1
@aioe.org:

HH means an iron cylinder liner horizontal engine.



So, in Teh-hili, "Heavy Duty" just means the rings and cylinder don't
wear out as fast as on their other more-junky motors?

LLoyd

Pretty much.

They build various lines of engines like the rest. The low end
occasional use engines use a plated aluminum bore, plain bearings and
splash lube.

The next step up uses a cast iron bore liner and replaceable rod bearing.

Next comes the sleeve bearings on the crank and replaceable rod bearings
with cast iron bore with pressure lube.

Higher on the chain are the iron bore, roller bearing, replaceable
bearings on both ends of the rod with pressure lube and filters.

This list applies to 2 and 4 stroke engines gas engines on consumer
items. Get into true commercial equipment and you won't find anything
but the last two types.

You can still get all cast iron engines but they are rare now. With most
of the stuff sold being set at a price point the companies design
accordingly. If the "typical" buyer uses the tiller twice a year for 4
total hours a plain engine would meet the price point. Then you sell the
"heavy Duty" version with the better engine. If you wanted the the top
end you bought a (pre MTD) Troy-Bilt to match you're usage.
Unfortunately MTD started building them to meet price points. Just like
all the rest. Even the commercial lawn equipment folks are trying to do it.

The problem is that some things don't translate well when built to a
price point.

That's when you start hearing the "Don't buy XYZ brand, they are junk",
and the companies start getting bad press.


--
Steve W.

On Nov 29, 6:15*am, Christopher Tidy
wrote:
stryped wrote:
...
So guys is it worth me trying to rebuild or not? I did find a briggs
intek 6.5 horse for about 250 bucks.

B&S 6.5HP, $279 new.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_48156_48156
Northern's catalog prices seem to be the 'street' price you can
bargain local dealers down to if you're so inclined.
Personally I would try to rebuild it for the learning experience
alone, although I might also buy the other engine because I have to
share a Tecumseh OHH55 between the log splitter and the sawmill. As
you can see, $250 isn't a super deal.

"Steve W." wrote in message
...

They build various lines of engines like the rest. The low end occasional
use engines use a plated aluminum bore, plain bearings and splash lube.



Unless something has changed over the years the low end B&S and Tecumseh
engines had a plain aluminum bore, and a hard chrome plated piston. You can
bore the aluminum blocks over size, but not worth the hassle on the smaller
HP engines.
As for the OP's HH60, it has a cast iron block, plain aluminum piston, the
mains could be ball bearing or sleeve, and the connecting rod is probably
the same one for the aluminum block engine. The engine was the same spec's
wise and dimension. Gaskets were all the same from the aluminum block to the
iron block, at a glance you could not tell them apart.The HH60 was a better
engine, but still not great!
Greg

On Wed, 03 Dec 2008 02:29:51 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Tue, 02 Dec 2008 14:34:13 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

Good, Now clean off all the lube. The units used on small engines are
designed to run clean and dry. any lube will attract dust and dirt and
cause it to stick.

Good advice on a tiller, perhaps not so good for a snowblower.

Same starter unit and same info that the factory book and training will
give you. The best thing for them is a bit of polishing compound. Lap
the parts so they move free. Clean them off very well and install.

You basically want the pinion to be loose on the shaft and lock up when
it engages the flywheel. The spring on there is just designed to hold
the pinion down. The engine rpm will be fast enough to kick the pinion
out of engagement. You REALLY don't want to see what happens to one of
those starter motors if the pinion manages to hang in the flywheel when
you throttle it up. BANG doesn't begin to describe it.

I believe you! My point was simply that snowblowers don't get
exposed to dust and dirt like tillers do. They get exposed to snow,
which is frozen water, which can cause rust. A light oil film ain't
all bad in a sit like that.