Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

Is it something you can take off, measure up and have someone make for you
for less? If they did this, would you be guaranteed to have less slop?
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R



** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On 2008-07-14, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

Is it something you can take off, measure up and have someone make for you
for less? If they did this, would you be guaranteed to have less slop?

I can take off the part and mail it to whoever to replicate. I would
obviously pay for it, but not anywhere close to $750, of course. I
looked at the nut, it looks badly worn, I do not think that it was
this way originally -- but, surely I would have to ascertain that
again. I may be able to do something with my mill, original nut, and
the McMaster nut. (as in, mill out the original nut, insert the
mcMaster nut and braze in)

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

"Ignoramus22312"
wrote in
message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started
looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross
slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut
attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe
1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and
attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and
inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and
lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing
wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.


You can also buy the appropriate acme tap and
make a new nut.

The nut part number you list above is for a
right-hand nut. You might want to take
a closer look at your old nut/screw---most I've
seen are left-hand.

Bill

On Jul 14, 11:36*am, Ignoramus22312 ignoramus22...@NOSPAM.
22312.invalid wrote:
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

i deal with it by ignoring it. There's no climb-milling issue on a
lathe. Look into Moglice

On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:36:05 -0500, Ignoramus22312
wrote:

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.
==========
All three appear to be viable alternatives, however be reminded
that the screw may have worn in addition to the nut. If this is
the case, although the total "slop" may be less, you can have a
condition where the fit is tight at the ends and loose in the
middle.

I would try the "easy" fix (#2) first if the screw wear is not
excessive, making sure that the epoxy sets up where the screw is
"big" to avoid binding.
Two brand names are Moglice and Turcite [Both manufacturers are
very proud of their products and charge accordingly....] There
may be cheaper generic or "knock off" products available. Any of
our readers have some suggestions?
http://www.moglice.com/
http://moglice.de/
http://www.mtsandtg.com/specialty/turcite
http://www.paragonprecisionllc.com/?...FQEpIgod8id0TQ
http://www.moglice-turcite.com/

It may be possible to disassemble and send the screw/nut to one
of the machine rebuilders and have the moglice cast in place.

An old time way to "fix" this was to open up the nut [ream the
hole bigger, smoke the screw [to prevent adhesion], and pour
babbitt. Lindsay Books has several good babbitt books if "old
world craftsmanship" appeals. Books indicate this was a common
half-nut repair at one time.
http://lindsaybks.com/
http://lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/babbitt/index.html
{scroll to bottom of page for 2 additional books}

For some ideas [be setting down when you check prices] see
http://www.techno-isel.com/Tic/acme_lead_screws.htm
http://www.abssac.co.uk/Products/Spe...crew_nuts.html


Good luck and let the group know how you make out, any problems,
etc.


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
-------------------------------------------
He that will not apply new remedies,
must expect new evils:
for Time is the greatest innovator: and
if Time, of course, alter things to the worse,
and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better,
what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman.
Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).

On 2008-07-14, BillM wrote:

"Ignoramus22312"
wrote in
message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started
looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross
slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut
attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe
1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and
attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and
inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and
lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing
wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.


You can also buy the appropriate acme tap and
make a new nut.

$150

The nut part number you list above is for a right-hand nut. You
might want to take a closer look at your old nut/screw---most I've
seen are left-hand.

Good point, I think that you are right.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:36:05 -0500, Ignoramus22312
wrote:


Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

4) Split the nut and make it adjustable. I've done this on two
machines, a lathe and a surface grinder.

On the lathe, the nut was rectangular and there was enough material
around the thread to install two guide pins and two adjusting screws.
Drill and ream for the guides before cutting the nut in two.

The grinder's nut was cylindrical with a thin wall. I cut it in half
and turned a fine male thread on each piece. A coupler with matching
threads and the same OD as the nut allows for lash adjustment.

None of these options will account for the inevitable unequal wear in
the lead screw.

--
Ned Simmons

First off, make sure everything is tight. 1/8 in is a boatload of slop for a
5 tpi nut. It mean your threads are only .075 thick at the base.
It is a good chance that some of the slop is coming from the nut being
loosely mounted or the handle on the screw not being mounted tight enough.

If the lash drops down to something reasonable, learn to work around it and
buy a new nut when one falls in your lap.

If it is still that large, take a good look at the screw as well.

McMaster carr sells a left hand bronze cylinder nut in 3/4-5 #95090A412 for
38 bucks. You could probably machine something up to fit.


Paul K. Dickman

"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

I can take off the part and mail it to whoever to replicate. I would
obviously pay for it, but not anywhere close to $750, of course. I
looked at the nut, it looks badly worn, I do not think that it was
this way originally -- but, surely I would have to ascertain that
again. I may be able to do something with my mill, original nut, and
the McMaster nut. (as in, mill out the original nut, insert the
mcMaster nut and braze in)

Ultimately, what could happen is that the McMaster is too loose or too tight
and then you are almost back at square 1... But it's worth a try compared
to $750!
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R



** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On 2008-07-14, Paul K. Dickman wrote:
First off, make sure everything is tight. 1/8 in is a boatload of slop for a
5 tpi nut. It mean your threads are only .075 thick at the base.

Yes. They are very thin. The whole brass nut looks like totally worn
****. (but the steel screw looks good, superficially).

It is a good chance that some of the slop is coming from the nut
being loosely mounted or the handle on the screw not being mounted
tight enough.

I wish.

If the lash drops down to something reasonable, learn to work around it and
buy a new nut when one falls in your lap.

If it is still that large, take a good look at the screw as well.

McMaster carr sells a left hand bronze cylinder nut in 3/4-5
#95090A412 for 38 bucks. You could probably machine something up to
fit.

I rather like item 95270A523, I think that it will be easier to
adapt. (and cheaper too)

i


Paul K. Dickman

"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.




--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On 2008-07-14, Joe AutoDrill wrote:
I can take off the part and mail it to whoever to replicate. I would
obviously pay for it, but not anywhere close to $750, of course. I
looked at the nut, it looks badly worn, I do not think that it was
this way originally -- but, surely I would have to ascertain that
again. I may be able to do something with my mill, original nut, and
the McMaster nut. (as in, mill out the original nut, insert the
mcMaster nut and braze in)

Ultimately, what could happen is that the McMaster is too loose or too tight
and then you are almost back at square 1... But it's worth a try compared
to $750!

I think that I will buy one today.

i

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:36:05 -0500, Ignoramus22312
wrote:

Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

Here is how I did similar repair on 13: S.B. lathes.

http://pages.cthome.net/errol.groff/...rew_repair.htm

Errol Groff

I can take off the part and mail it to whoever to replicate. I would
obviously pay for it, but not anywhere close to $750, of course. I
looked at the nut, it looks badly worn, I do not think that it was
this way originally -- but, surely I would have to ascertain that
again. I may be able to do something with my mill, original nut, and
the McMaster nut. (as in, mill out the original nut, insert the
mcMaster nut and braze in)

Ultimately, what could happen is that the McMaster is too loose or too
tight
and then you are almost back at square 1... But it's worth a try
compared
to $750!

I think that I will buy one today.

You can always return it if it doesn't fit the lead screw properly BEFORE
modifying it.

If you are going to braze it in, think about getting a piece of spare male
thread to put in it to make sure it holds size during the process. Don't
know if that will help or not in an overheat situation, but it's low cost
insurance.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R



** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On 2008-07-14, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Jul 14, 11:36*am, Ignoramus22312 ignoramus22...@NOSPAM.
22312.invalid wrote:
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

i deal with it by ignoring it. There's no climb-milling issue on a
lathe. Look into Moglice

What about facing?
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On 2008-07-14, Errol Groff wrote:
On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:36:05 -0500, Ignoramus22312
wrote:

Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

Here is how I did similar repair on 13: S.B. lathes.

http://pages.cthome.net/errol.groff/...rew_repair.htm

Errol Groff

Very nice page Errol. I will see first if I can keep the screw, but if
not, I will buy a screw also.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On 2008-07-14, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:36:05 -0500, Ignoramus22312
wrote:


Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

4) Split the nut and make it adjustable. I've done this on two
machines, a lathe and a surface grinder.

It is in such a bad shape, that doing so would not help.

On the lathe, the nut was rectangular and there was enough material
around the thread to install two guide pins and two adjusting
screws. Drill and ream for the guides before cutting the nut in
two.

The grinder's nut was cylindrical with a thin wall. I cut it in half
and turned a fine male thread on each piece. A coupler with matching
threads and the same OD as the nut allows for lash adjustment.

None of these options will account for the inevitable unequal wear in
the lead screw.

The lead screw is just $22 at McMaster-Carr, I will just buy it if I
find a lot of wear on the existing one, but I expect (and saw) most of
the wear on the brass nut. So I will start with the nut first.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Similar to an earlier suggestion, but slightly different: split the nut, so
it is like a pair of jam nuts, and then turn one half so the slop is taken
out. Then, cross drill and pin, or silver solder, or come up with some
other method of holding them.

thr split nut ideas are great if you have little wear and want to lessen the
slack, however, if you have more wear in one part of the screw than the
other, this is likely to bind when you get out of this sweet spot...

just a thought.


"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...
Similar to an earlier suggestion, but slightly different: split the nut,
so it is like a pair of jam nuts, and then turn one half so the slop is
taken out. Then, cross drill and pin, or silver solder, or come up with
some other method of holding them.

On 2008-07-14, F George McDuffee wrote:
On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:36:05 -0500, Ignoramus22312
wrote:

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.
==========
All three appear to be viable alternatives, however be reminded
that the screw may have worn in addition to the nut. If this is
the case, although the total "slop" may be less, you can have a
condition where the fit is tight at the ends and loose in the
middle.

I would try the "easy" fix (#2) first if the screw wear is not
excessive, making sure that the epoxy sets up where the screw is
"big" to avoid binding.
Two brand names are Moglice and Turcite [Both manufacturers are
very proud of their products and charge accordingly....] There
may be cheaper generic or "knock off" products available. Any of
our readers have some suggestions?
http://www.moglice.com/
http://moglice.de/
http://www.mtsandtg.com/specialty/turcite
http://www.paragonprecisionllc.com/?...FQEpIgod8id0TQ
http://www.moglice-turcite.com/

It may be possible to disassemble and send the screw/nut to one
of the machine rebuilders and have the moglice cast in place.

An old time way to "fix" this was to open up the nut [ream the
hole bigger, smoke the screw [to prevent adhesion], and pour
babbitt. Lindsay Books has several good babbitt books if "old
world craftsmanship" appeals. Books indicate this was a common
half-nut repair at one time.
http://lindsaybks.com/
http://lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/babbitt/index.html
{scroll to bottom of page for 2 additional books}

For some ideas [be setting down when you check prices] see
http://www.techno-isel.com/Tic/acme_lead_screws.htm
http://www.abssac.co.uk/Products/Spe...crew_nuts.html


Good luck and let the group know how you make out, any problems,
etc.

I have ordered a nut from McMaster and will have it tomorrow. I will
report my progress. The nut is big enough (3/4-5 ACME thread inside a
1 1/4" square) that I can attach another brass piece to it that would
be attached to the cross slide.

i


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
He that will not apply new remedies,
must expect new evils:
for Time is the greatest innovator: and
if Time, of course, alter things to the worse,
and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better,
what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman.
Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Fixed an HF XY table with similar woes by compressing the nut in a BFP
in small increments until the lead screw had no lash. Worked well.
JR
Dweller in the cellar


Ignoramus22312 wrote:

Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.


--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

On Jul 14, 2:06*pm, Ignoramus22312 ignoramus22...@NOSPAM.
22312.invalid wrote:
On 2008-07-14, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
I deal with it by ignoring it. There's no climb-milling issue on a
lathe. Look into Moglice

What about facing?

The free play on my lathe is 0.052" on the cross slide, 0.038" on the
compound. The compound at 29 degrees would be more likely to slip
forward and dig in if the tool had a large top rake, but I know better
than to grind it that way. A top rake of 10 - 20 degree doesn't cause
problems. I tried 60 degrees once after seeing it in an old book and
did have trouble.

Ignoramus22312 wrote:
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.


First, measure the thickness of the thread land of the LEADSCREW at the
ends of travel and the middle. If it is much thinner in the middle, all
of the above plans will end up binding when away from the center of travel.

But, you have a workable lathe! You can cut a new screw and a new nut.
Make the screw first, as it is pretty easy to do. Then, you can cut the
nut, and test-fit with the screw until it is a snug but working fit.
Remember that the cross slide is a LEFT HAND thread! Don't ASK why I
know this so well!

If the screw actually turns out to be fine (unlikely) you can just make
a new nut. But, note that a screw with differential wear is not very
accurate to move from here to there, so if it is worn, and you don't
have a DRO, you really want to take the opportunity to replace/remake it.

Jon

I have been reading your threads and it is clear you have never rebuilt a
lathe. You will find that this is the tip of a big iceberg. You can do 2
things, rebuild it right, use it like it is, or sell it and buy one that
isn't clapped out.

So let's examine the first option. You don't have the tools to make your own
parts, so you either have to buy the parts or pay some one else to make
them. The advantage is you will know how to do this right the next time. You
will spend a lot more money and time than you think and finally understand
why it was sold for what you paid in the first place.

The second option will teach you how to use a lathe. It will also teach you
the tricks necessary to do accurate work with junk. (very valuable) Most
importantly, sooner or later you will get a chance to use a good machine and
then you will understand the difference first hand. After that, you will
know why your machine was sold for the price you paid.

The third choice is one you should make, but won't, until you experience
either option 1 or option 2.

Lastly, how do I know this? Because the brass nut is not brass. It is
bronze. Probably Phosphor or Silicon Aluminum and much harder than brass.
Please do not take offense to this reply. I am not trying to insult you.
This is solid advice because many of us have been there and done this
before, including me. I think this task is not only beyond your skill set,
but you probably do not have access to a complete machine shop that this
task will require. Furthermore, I really do not want to see you to waste the
money option 1 will cost, because it isn't economically prudent. You are far
better off spending the correct money for a good machine. Let me put option
1 in perspective. The last lathe I rebuilt was a 13 x 40, late model South
Bend and it wasn't clapped out. It took me 18 months and $3,000 and I had
all the tools I needed before hand. That cost did not include the purchase
price. I did it because I liked the machine, not because it was the smart
thing to do. Another thought you need to make is that the cost of the
working machine typically represents about 50% of the total investment. The
rest is the investment in tools and accessories. Often this last 50% can be
even more. So I suggest you think about compatibility of tool cross use and
the cost and general availability of the tool family, as this can vary
widely as well.
Steve


"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On 2008-07-14, Steve Lusardi wrote:
I have been reading your threads and it is clear you have never rebuilt a
lathe.

yep

You will find that this is the tip of a big iceberg. You can do 2
things, rebuild it right, use it like it is, or sell it and buy one that
isn't clapped out.

So let's examine the first option. You don't have the tools to make your own
parts, so you either have to buy the parts or pay some one else to make
them. The advantage is you will know how to do this right the next time. You
will spend a lot more money and time than you think and finally understand
why it was sold for what you paid in the first place.

The second option will teach you how to use a lathe. It will also teach you
the tricks necessary to do accurate work with junk. (very valuable) Most
importantly, sooner or later you will get a chance to use a good machine and
then you will understand the difference first hand. After that, you will
know why your machine was sold for the price you paid.

The third choice is one you should make, but won't, until you experience
either option 1 or option 2.

Lastly, how do I know this? Because the brass nut is not brass. It is
bronze. Probably Phosphor or Silicon Aluminum and much harder than brass.
Please do not take offense to this reply. I am not trying to insult you.
This is solid advice because many of us have been there and done this
before, including me. I think this task is not only beyond your skill set,
but you probably do not have access to a complete machine shop that this
task will require. Furthermore, I really do not want to see you to waste the
money option 1 will cost, because it isn't economically prudent. You are far
better off spending the correct money for a good machine. Let me put option
1 in perspective. The last lathe I rebuilt was a 13 x 40, late model South
Bend and it wasn't clapped out. It took me 18 months and $3,000 and I had
all the tools I needed before hand. That cost did not include the purchase
price. I did it because I liked the machine, not because it was the smart
thing to do. Another thought you need to make is that the cost of the
working machine typically represents about 50% of the total investment. The
rest is the investment in tools and accessories. Often this last 50% can be
even more. So I suggest you think about compatibility of tool cross use and
the cost and general availability of the tool family, as this can vary
widely as well.
Steve

Steve, what did you have to fix with your lathe?

As far as the machine shop goes, I have a mill, which is not much but
it lets me do quite a few things that I need.

Anyway, I think that you are right. And I had some experiences with
DIY projects that ended up costing many times more than would be new
brandname items, if I take the cost of my time into consideration.

Anyhow, for now, my plan is to keep the lathe for a couple of months,
learn how to use it a little bit, fix easy things (such as that on/off
switch that I talked about, nut etc) and then I will sell it, properly
described of course.

i


"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.




--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 11:41:55 -0400, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

Is it something you can take off, measure up and have someone make for you
for less? If they did this, would you be guaranteed to have less slop?

I read posts like this frequently but in reality any machine tool
built before the advent of ball screws had backlash in all its
adjustments. Apprentices were taught to cope with this problem by
making all adjustments in the same direction - opposite to the force
being applied by the cutting tool. In your lathe's case, assuming
normal turning operations, you back the tool off and then readjust it
toward the work until you reach the dial setting you had used for the
previous cut and then as much more as you want for the next cut.

If you want less slop then just make a new nut.... after all, you've
got the lathe to bore and thread the new nut.





Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 15:27:39 -0500, Ignoramus22312
wrote:

I have ordered a nut from McMaster
======
also see
http://www.roton.com/Sleeve_Nut.aspx?line=Acme

It might be better to epoxy the nut in place as it will be easier
to get back out if necessary..... also easier to shim into exact
position. Setscrews might be good also.


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
-------------------------------------------
He that will not apply new remedies,
must expect new evils:
for Time is the greatest innovator: and
if Time, of course, alter things to the worse,
and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better,
what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman.
Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).

On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 16:35:35 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

You can cut a new screw and a new nut.
Make the screw first, as it is pretty easy to do.
========
You can also get a piece of 3-4 X 5 LH "allthread" from the URL I
posted for the nuts
see
http://www.roton.com/Mating_Componen...mber=59502&#PN
for entire rebuild kit [some assembly required]

Unka' George [George McDuffee]
-------------------------------------------
He that will not apply new remedies,
must expect new evils:
for Time is the greatest innovator: and
if Time, of course, alter things to the worse,
and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better,
what shall be the end?

Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman.
Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).

On 2008-07-14, Jon Elson wrote:


Ignoramus22312 wrote:
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.


First, measure the thickness of the thread land of the LEADSCREW at the
ends of travel and the middle. If it is much thinner in the middle, all
of the above plans will end up binding when away from the center of travel.

But, you have a workable lathe! You can cut a new screw and a new nut.
Make the screw first, as it is pretty easy to do. Then, you can cut the
nut, and test-fit with the screw until it is a snug but working fit.
Remember that the cross slide is a LEFT HAND thread! Don't ASK why I
know this so well!

If the screw actually turns out to be fine (unlikely) you can just make
a new nut. But, note that a screw with differential wear is not very
accurate to move from here to there, so if it is worn, and you don't
have a DRO, you really want to take the opportunity to replace/remake it.

I took the screw out. It has some wear, but nothing major. On a cross
slide screw, if I use a new nut, I will have modest backlash, which is
totally OK.

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

On 2008-07-15, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 11:41:55 -0400, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

Is it something you can take off, measure up and have someone make for you
for less? If they did this, would you be guaranteed to have less slop?

I read posts like this frequently but in reality any machine tool
built before the advent of ball screws had backlash in all its
adjustments. Apprentices were taught to cope with this problem by
making all adjustments in the same direction - opposite to the force
being applied by the cutting tool.

You can adjust the cross slide in the opposite direction if you pull
it by hand to "aid" it's motion.

i

In your lathe's case, assuming
normal turning operations, you back the tool off and then readjust it
toward the work until you reach the dial setting you had used for the
previous cut and then as much more as you want for the next cut.

If you want less slop then just make a new nut.... after all, you've
got the lathe to bore and thread the new nut.





Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

snip stuff

Is this what you are refering to?....Paul

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=140238453069

On 2008-07-15, catguy wrote:

"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

snip stuff

Is this what you are refering to?....Paul

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=140238453069


Looks like a great find, but this is for a different Clausing.

i
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Smart boy! Good plan. I had two other lathes, a horizontal mill, 2 vertical
mills, 18" shaper, saws, and all the measurement tools including a precision
level and a set of spindle calibration bars. On your lead screw nut issue,
you must assume wear on both the nut and screw. Of course you will have more
wear on the nut than the screw, but the point is that you will not eliminate
all the back lash without introducing screw bind at the extremities of
travel. Many times the follower nut is a split type with a wedge between the
two halves. This will allow some backlash elimination by winding down the
wedge. I do not know if this is true in your case. A bigger problem is of
course the way wear. This will occur in the location of most use,
eliminating the ability to correctly adjust the gib. This will manifest
itself exactly in the same way as nut bind, so when setting up the nut, back
off the gib to eliminate the confusion and optimize each, one at a time.
Remember, you don't have to have everything perfect for the machine to be
useful. You do have know how to tune it up though. Also on the same subject,
many times the nut is not centered on the leadscrew in the vertical plane at
the factory. Be prepared to remove the alignment pins, mill the mount
surface of the nut or shim the nut as required. This entire operation can be
further complicated if the lathe is equipped with a taper attachment,
because the cross feed leadscrew in many cases is differential, forcing you
to resolve any bind or looseness issues with that end first.
Steve

"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
On 2008-07-14, Steve Lusardi wrote:
I have been reading your threads and it is clear you have never rebuilt a
lathe.

yep

You will find that this is the tip of a big iceberg. You can do 2
things, rebuild it right, use it like it is, or sell it and buy one that
isn't clapped out.

So let's examine the first option. You don't have the tools to make your
own
parts, so you either have to buy the parts or pay some one else to make
them. The advantage is you will know how to do this right the next time.
You
will spend a lot more money and time than you think and finally
understand
why it was sold for what you paid in the first place.

The second option will teach you how to use a lathe. It will also teach
you
the tricks necessary to do accurate work with junk. (very valuable) Most
importantly, sooner or later you will get a chance to use a good machine
and
then you will understand the difference first hand. After that, you will
know why your machine was sold for the price you paid.

The third choice is one you should make, but won't, until you experience
either option 1 or option 2.

Lastly, how do I know this? Because the brass nut is not brass. It is
bronze. Probably Phosphor or Silicon Aluminum and much harder than brass.
Please do not take offense to this reply. I am not trying to insult you.
This is solid advice because many of us have been there and done this
before, including me. I think this task is not only beyond your skill
set,
but you probably do not have access to a complete machine shop that this
task will require. Furthermore, I really do not want to see you to waste
the
money option 1 will cost, because it isn't economically prudent. You are
far
better off spending the correct money for a good machine. Let me put
option
1 in perspective. The last lathe I rebuilt was a 13 x 40, late model
South
Bend and it wasn't clapped out. It took me 18 months and $3,000 and I had
all the tools I needed before hand. That cost did not include the
purchase
price. I did it because I liked the machine, not because it was the smart
thing to do. Another thought you need to make is that the cost of the
working machine typically represents about 50% of the total investment.
The
rest is the investment in tools and accessories. Often this last 50% can
be
even more. So I suggest you think about compatibility of tool cross use
and
the cost and general availability of the tool family, as this can vary
widely as well.
Steve

Steve, what did you have to fix with your lathe?

As far as the machine shop goes, I have a mill, which is not much but
it lets me do quite a few things that I need.

Anyway, I think that you are right. And I had some experiences with
DIY projects that ended up costing many times more than would be new
brandname items, if I take the cost of my time into consideration.

Anyhow, for now, my plan is to keep the lathe for a couple of months,
learn how to use it a little bit, fix easy things (such as that on/off
switch that I talked about, nut etc) and then I will sell it, properly
described of course.

i


"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.




--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their
inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Steve, can you share, what did you have to do to fix up your lathe?

I do not want to eliminate all backlash, just some. The screw has
wear, but not much.

I will post some numbers on the backlash prior and after the
replacement.

i

On 2008-07-15, Steve Lusardi wrote:
Smart boy! Good plan. I had two other lathes, a horizontal mill, 2 vertical
mills, 18" shaper, saws, and all the measurement tools including a precision
level and a set of spindle calibration bars. On your lead screw nut issue,
you must assume wear on both the nut and screw. Of course you will have more
wear on the nut than the screw, but the point is that you will not eliminate
all the back lash without introducing screw bind at the extremities of
travel. Many times the follower nut is a split type with a wedge between the
two halves. This will allow some backlash elimination by winding down the
wedge. I do not know if this is true in your case. A bigger problem is of
course the way wear. This will occur in the location of most use,
eliminating the ability to correctly adjust the gib. This will manifest
itself exactly in the same way as nut bind, so when setting up the nut, back
off the gib to eliminate the confusion and optimize each, one at a time.
Remember, you don't have to have everything perfect for the machine to be
useful. You do have know how to tune it up though. Also on the same subject,
many times the nut is not centered on the leadscrew in the vertical plane at
the factory. Be prepared to remove the alignment pins, mill the mount
surface of the nut or shim the nut as required. This entire operation can be
further complicated if the lathe is equipped with a taper attachment,
because the cross feed leadscrew in many cases is differential, forcing you
to resolve any bind or looseness issues with that end first.
Steve

"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
On 2008-07-14, Steve Lusardi wrote:
I have been reading your threads and it is clear you have never rebuilt a
lathe.

yep

You will find that this is the tip of a big iceberg. You can do 2
things, rebuild it right, use it like it is, or sell it and buy one that
isn't clapped out.

So let's examine the first option. You don't have the tools to make your
own
parts, so you either have to buy the parts or pay some one else to make
them. The advantage is you will know how to do this right the next time.
You
will spend a lot more money and time than you think and finally
understand
why it was sold for what you paid in the first place.

The second option will teach you how to use a lathe. It will also teach
you
the tricks necessary to do accurate work with junk. (very valuable) Most
importantly, sooner or later you will get a chance to use a good machine
and
then you will understand the difference first hand. After that, you will
know why your machine was sold for the price you paid.

The third choice is one you should make, but won't, until you experience
either option 1 or option 2.

Lastly, how do I know this? Because the brass nut is not brass. It is
bronze. Probably Phosphor or Silicon Aluminum and much harder than brass.
Please do not take offense to this reply. I am not trying to insult you.
This is solid advice because many of us have been there and done this
before, including me. I think this task is not only beyond your skill
set,
but you probably do not have access to a complete machine shop that this
task will require. Furthermore, I really do not want to see you to waste
the
money option 1 will cost, because it isn't economically prudent. You are
far
better off spending the correct money for a good machine. Let me put
option
1 in perspective. The last lathe I rebuilt was a 13 x 40, late model
South
Bend and it wasn't clapped out. It took me 18 months and $3,000 and I had
all the tools I needed before hand. That cost did not include the
purchase
price. I did it because I liked the machine, not because it was the smart
thing to do. Another thought you need to make is that the cost of the
working machine typically represents about 50% of the total investment.
The
rest is the investment in tools and accessories. Often this last 50% can
be
even more. So I suggest you think about compatibility of tool cross use
and
the cost and general availability of the tool family, as this can vary
widely as well.
Steve

Steve, what did you have to fix with your lathe?

As far as the machine shop goes, I have a mill, which is not much but
it lets me do quite a few things that I need.

Anyway, I think that you are right. And I had some experiences with
DIY projects that ended up costing many times more than would be new
brandname items, if I take the cost of my time into consideration.

Anyhow, for now, my plan is to keep the lathe for a couple of months,
learn how to use it a little bit, fix easy things (such as that on/off
switch that I talked about, nut etc) and then I will sell it, properly
described of course.

i


"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.







--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
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On Jul 14, 2:06*pm, Ignoramus22312 ignoramus22...@NOSPAM.
22312.invalid wrote:

What about facing?
--

What about facing?

John Martin

"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
On 2008-07-14, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:36:05 -0500, Ignoramus22312
wrote:


Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

4) Split the nut and make it adjustable. I've done this on two
machines, a lathe and a surface grinder.

It is in such a bad shape, that doing so would not help.

On the lathe, the nut was rectangular and there was enough material
around the thread to install two guide pins and two adjusting
screws. Drill and ream for the guides before cutting the nut in
two.

The grinder's nut was cylindrical with a thin wall. I cut it in half
and turned a fine male thread on each piece. A coupler with matching
threads and the same OD as the nut allows for lash adjustment.

None of these options will account for the inevitable unequal wear in
the lead screw.

The lead screw is just $22 at McMaster-Carr, I will just buy it if I
find a lot of wear on the existing one, but I expect (and saw) most of
the wear on the brass nut. So I will start with the nut first.


I'm not positive, but suspect that the nuts and leadscrews sold by
McMaster-Carr might be somewhat low precision. That might not be important
for the compound or cross slide where travel is usually short, but you
should be aware of it so you can make an informed decision.

Mike

On 2008-07-15, Mike Henry wrote:

"Ignoramus22312" wrote in message
...
On 2008-07-14, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:36:05 -0500, Ignoramus22312
wrote:


Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

4) Split the nut and make it adjustable. I've done this on two
machines, a lathe and a surface grinder.

It is in such a bad shape, that doing so would not help.

On the lathe, the nut was rectangular and there was enough material
around the thread to install two guide pins and two adjusting
screws. Drill and ream for the guides before cutting the nut in
two.

The grinder's nut was cylindrical with a thin wall. I cut it in half
and turned a fine male thread on each piece. A coupler with matching
threads and the same OD as the nut allows for lash adjustment.

None of these options will account for the inevitable unequal wear in
the lead screw.

The lead screw is just $22 at McMaster-Carr, I will just buy it if I
find a lot of wear on the existing one, but I expect (and saw) most of
the wear on the brass nut. So I will start with the nut first.


I'm not positive, but suspect that the nuts and leadscrews sold by
McMaster-Carr might be somewhat low precision. That might not be important
for the compound or cross slide where travel is usually short, but you
should be aware of it so you can make an informed decision.


I think that all cross slides should have backlash, I just want to
have it smaller. I think that I can do it without breaking anything
and can always reuse the old nut.

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On 2008-07-14, Ignoramus22312 wrote:
Now that I have my lathe "working", I started looking at its condition
a little more closely. On my lathe, the cross slide is moved by a
3/4-5 ACME screw, that moves a brass nut attached to the cross slide.

There is a lot of wear in this, as in, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" of slop.

I was thinking about fixing this.

Three things come to mind.

1) Buy a McMaster ACME brass nut 95270A123 and attach it to a custom
made part to fit under the cross slide.

Hmm ... maybe.

2) Do something clever like wax the screw and inject epoxy into the
nut to take up the slop.

I don't know what the design of this nut is, but the nut for my
Clausing 5418 is a 'T' shape in bronze with the vertical bar of the 'T'
upside down -- running through the top of the cross-slide. In its
center it has a spring-loaded ball and a bore down to the leadscrew so
you can oil it regularly.

Note; that half of the slop is likely to be wear in the
leadscrew itself. To check this out -- crank to the very outer position
which still has the leadscrew fully inside the nut and check how much
backlash you have there. What you find there will be what comes from
the nut, and what is in the middle will be from the wear on the
leadscrew, since the leadscrew tends to wear mostly in the middle. If
you discover that the leadscrew is a large component of the slop, you
should plan to either purchase and replace the leadscrew too, or to make
a replacement leadscrew (left-hand ACME threading).

As for the epoxy you want to put in -- look up "Moglice" which
is an epoxy designed for just this kind of work -- rebuilding nuts and
the sliding surfaces on the carriage.

Oh yes -- if you try the epoxy/Moglice approach and the
leadscrew is worn, if you have the leadscrew in the most worn section
while you pour the epoxy, you probably can never get the leadscrew out
of the nut. :-)

3) Make a replacement part on the mill and lathe.

Check the design. I think that this is probably the best route.
And make a new leadscrew while you are about it.

Has anyone dealt with this issue. Clausing wants $750 (not a typo) to
custom make this part for me.

:-)

There must not be many of these made here. I think that the
machine you got was made in England, not in the USA.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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On 2008-07-15, Bruce in Bangkok wrote:
On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 11:41:55 -0400, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

[ ... ]

Is it something you can take off, measure up and have someone make for you
for less? If they did this, would you be guaranteed to have less slop?

I read posts like this frequently but in reality any machine tool
built before the advent of ball screws had backlash in all its
adjustments. Apprentices were taught to cope with this problem by
making all adjustments in the same direction - opposite to the force
being applied by the cutting tool. In your lathe's case, assuming
normal turning operations, you back the tool off and then readjust it
toward the work until you reach the dial setting you had used for the
previous cut and then as much more as you want for the next cut.

And -- one thing which you can do is to mount a dial indicator
with a two or three inch travel so it measures the motion of the cross
slide. This will be more accurate than a worn leadscrew in a worn nut.
(If it were just the nut worn, you would have the same backlash all the
way through the range, and your dials would be accurate enough.
However, if the leadscrew is worn, that will be more so in the middle of
the range, and will introduce extra errors -- unless you are measuring
cross-slide travel with something which does not depend on the
leadscrew.

My 5418 had the leadscrew and nut so badly worn that it was
producing 0.070" of backlash in the middle of travel -- and this on a
1/2" diameter leadscrew which produced a full 0.100" travel per rotation
when in good shape.

However -- the leadscrew and nut were a lot less expensive for
mine -- at least back when I got it. :-)

If you want less slop then just make a new nut.... after all, you've
got the lathe to bore and thread the new nut.

And at least you have a larger bore than I did. Beware that you
will probably need to make a left-hand thread ACME, not just a normal
ACME if your cross-slide is like mine. Check it out before you order
anything.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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On 2008-07-14, Ignoramus22312 wrote:
On 2008-07-14, Paul K. Dickman wrote:
First off, make sure everything is tight. 1/8 in is a boatload of slop for a
5 tpi nut. It mean your threads are only .075 thick at the base.

Yes. They are very thin. The whole brass nut looks like totally worn
****. (but the steel screw looks good, superficially).

Check the width of the crest of the thread on the screw.
Compare the crest in the middle and at the extreme ends to get an idea
of how worn it is. (The accurate way to do this is with an optical
comparator and with dial indicators on the slides.)

As an example, the cross-slide leadscrew in my Clausing 5418
looked like this at the ends (as it should) (Of course -- view with a
fixed pitch font like Courier -- I expect Iggy to do this normally, but
others may not):
_ _ _ _
_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_

But the middle looked like this:

_/\__/\__/\__/\ _

The nut was worn too -- but not nearly as much as the leadscrew.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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