I have an older model Troy bilt horse. )I belive 1982. It is 6 horse
electric start. I was tilling yesterday and it made a metallic sound
then died. It has no compression when pulling the recoil starter.

I am debating fixing this or scraping and buying a cheaper one. Can
you tell me how much a replacement is? Do you sell rebuild kits for
my
current engine? Here are the numbers on it:


HH60-105116Hser23230


Also, I have found an engine used online. The model is H60-75505R
with
Serial 0096R. It is a manual start. It is sold as is for 75 plus
shipping. Can you tell me if this can be converted to electric start
using my current blown up engine?


Thanks!

stryped wrote:
... it made a metallic sound
then died. It has no compression when pulling the recoil starter.
...

Good chance that you "threw" the connecting rod. If it didn't punch a
hole in the crankcase (which you *probably* would have noticed), it is
readily repaired.

Easy check: take the spark plug out, turn it over (by hand). If you
don't see the piston moving, the rod is gone. Then check back here.

Bob

On Jul 11, 1:26*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
stryped wrote:
... *it made a metallic sound
then died. It has no compression when pulling the recoil starter.
...

Good chance that you "threw" the connecting rod. *If it didn't punch a
hole in the crankcase (which you *probably* would have noticed), it is
readily repaired.

Easy check: take the spark plug out, turn it over (by hand). *If you
don't see the piston moving, the rod is gone. *Then check back here.

Bob

I will do that. It did kind of make a "clanking" sound. It also put
out some white smoke. After it died, I checked the oil and it was bone
dry. (I know i am an idiot).

"stryped" wrote in
message
...
I will do that. It did kind of make a "clanking"
sound. It also put
out some white smoke. After it died, I checked
the oil and it was bone
dry. (I know i am an idiot).

What brand of engine is it? Most of the old
Troy-Bilt's used cast iron Kohler's.
One heck of a tough engine, but not tough enough
to run without oil!

On Jul 11, 1:35*pm, "BillM" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in
...
I will do that. It did kind of make a "clanking"
sound. It also put
out some white smoke. After it died, I checked
the oil and it was bone
dry. (I know i am an idiot).

What brand of engine is it? *Most of the old
Troy-Bilt's used cast iron Kohler's.
One heck of a tough engine, but not tough enough
to run without oil!

It is a techumseh. So if it is a rod, would it be possible for me to
replace it and everythign be good to go?

"stryped" wrote in message
...
On Jul 11, 1:35 pm, "BillM" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in
...
I will do that. It did kind of make a "clanking"
sound. It also put
out some white smoke. After it died, I checked
the oil and it was bone
dry. (I know i am an idiot).

What brand of engine is it? Most of the old
Troy-Bilt's used cast iron Kohler's.
One heck of a tough engine, but not tough enough
to run without oil!

It is a techumseh. So if it is a rod, would it be possible for me to
replace it and everythign be good to go?

If you ran it dry, it is highly likely that there is other damage than a
rod. I have had 3 rods break on small gas engines and all 3 times there was
significant galling on the crank shaft rod journal (which I believe is what
broke the rod). It's free to open up the engine and look, but I expect it
is not economical to repair.

New engines

6hp recoil start $149 (Someone on RCM was recently saying they had shoulder
problems and couldn't use a recoil start, if that's you this won't work.
But if you can't pull start a 6hp I don't tink you should be running a
roto-tiller at all)
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...atname=engines

6hp with electric start $329
http://www.tons-of-tools.com/tecumse...rt-p-3135.html

I have no idea of the replacement cost of a troy built equivalent.

CarlBoyd

Carl Boyd wrote:

"stryped" wrote in message
...
On Jul 11, 1:35 pm, "BillM" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in
...
I will do that. It did kind of make a "clanking"
sound. It also put
out some white smoke. After it died, I checked
the oil and it was bone
dry. (I know i am an idiot).

What brand of engine is it? Most of the old
Troy-Bilt's used cast iron Kohler's.
One heck of a tough engine, but not tough enough
to run without oil!

It is a techumseh. So if it is a rod, would it be possible for me to
replace it and everythign be good to go?

If you ran it dry, it is highly likely that there is other damage than a
rod. I have had 3 rods break on small gas engines and all 3 times there was
significant galling on the crank shaft rod journal (which I believe is what
broke the rod). It's free to open up the engine and look, but I expect it
is not economical to repair.

New engines

6hp recoil start $149 (Someone on RCM was recently saying they had shoulder
problems and couldn't use a recoil start, if that's you this won't work.
But if you can't pull start a 6hp I don't tink you should be running a
roto-tiller at all)
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...atname=engines

6hp with electric start $329
http://www.tons-of-tools.com/tecumse...rt-p-3135.html

I have no idea of the replacement cost of a troy built equivalent.

CarlBoyd

Northern Tool carries a large array of engines, many in their retail
stores if there is one near you. Should be very easy to replace if it's
a pretty standard engine.

Carl Boyd wrote:
If you ran it dry, it is highly likely that there is other damage than a rod.

Good point. Probably the next most vulnerable would be the cam lobes &
lifters. But even when it looks dry, there can still be enough of a
left-over film to go quite a while.

I have had 3 rods break on small gas engines and all 3 times there was
significant galling on the crank shaft rod journal (which I believe is what
broke the rod). It's free to open up the engine and look, but I expect it
is not economical to repair.

....

I replaced a broken rod in a 12 hp B&S engine. It had failed by seizing
on its crank. The crank *looked* galled, but it was aluminum from the
rod that had "welded" to it. (The crank was cast iron & the rod
aluminum without any bearing insert. Likely the OP's situation.) Any
how, the aluminum cleaned off the crank & it was undamaged. Cast iron
being so much harder than aluminum, it's what you'd expect.

OP: first things first - just check it, then we'll talk about fixing it!

Bob

On Jul 11, 2:07*pm, "Carl Boyd" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message

...
On Jul 11, 1:35 pm, "BillM" wrote:

"stryped" wrote in
...
I will do that. It did kind of make a "clanking"
sound. It also put
out some white smoke. After it died, I checked
the oil and it was bone
dry. (I know i am an idiot).

What brand of engine is it? Most of the old
Troy-Bilt's used cast iron Kohler's.
One heck of a tough engine, but not tough enough
to run without oil!
It is a techumseh. So if it is a rod, would it be possible for me to
replace it and everythign be good to go?

If you ran it dry, it is highly likely that there is other damage than a
rod. *I have had 3 rods break on small gas engines and all 3 times there was
significant galling on the crank shaft rod journal (which I believe is what
broke the rod). *It's free to open up the engine and look, but I expect it
is not economical to repair.

New engines

6hp recoil start $149 (Someone on RCM was recently saying they had shoulder
problems and couldn't use a recoil start, if that's you this won't work.
But if you can't pull start a 6hp I don't tink you should be running a
roto-tiller at all)http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...109&item=28-16...

6hp with electric start $329http://www.tons-of-tools.com/tecumseh-power-sport-ohh60-oh195ea-elect...

I have no idea of the replacement cost of a troy built equivalent.

CarlBoyd

Do you know if these are direct bolt in replacements? Shaft size and
everythign correct? I have no idea on what I currently have.

"stryped" wrote in
message news:2b4baa08-e13a-47ce-9060-Do you know
if these are direct bolt in replacements? Shaft
size and
everythign correct? I have no idea on what I
currently have.

1. Disassemble
2. Repair/replace as needed
3.Re-assemble

Tecumseh, B&S, Honda, and Kohler make their respective engines in
various series where all sorts of parts can be mixed and matched to meet
customer needs. Cranks will all have the same interior dimensions but
shaft length, key, taper/no taper, bolt hole, etc are all different.
Ditto for flywheels (electric start), recoil starter config, built in
reduction gear, mounting holes, etc etc.

Odds are very good that some mix of used and new parts would fix your
engine. Odds of finding an exact replacement in stock at Northern Tool
are not good at all.

Tear it down, see what you have, what went wrong. Teardown takes less
than an hour.

stryped wrote:
On Jul 11, 2:07 pm, "Carl Boyd" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message

...
On Jul 11, 1:35 pm, "BillM" wrote:

"stryped" wrote in
...
I will do that. It did kind of make a "clanking"
sound. It also put
out some white smoke. After it died, I checked
the oil and it was bone
dry. (I know i am an idiot).
What brand of engine is it? Most of the old
Troy-Bilt's used cast iron Kohler's.
One heck of a tough engine, but not tough enough
to run without oil!
It is a techumseh. So if it is a rod, would it be possible for me to
replace it and everythign be good to go?
If you ran it dry, it is highly likely that there is other damage than a
rod. I have had 3 rods break on small gas engines and all 3 times there was
significant galling on the crank shaft rod journal (which I believe is what
broke the rod). It's free to open up the engine and look, but I expect it
is not economical to repair.

New engines

6hp recoil start $149 (Someone on RCM was recently saying they had shoulder
problems and couldn't use a recoil start, if that's you this won't work.
But if you can't pull start a 6hp I don't tink you should be running a
roto-tiller at all)http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...109&item=28-16...

6hp with electric start $329http://www.tons-of-tools.com/tecumseh-power-sport-ohh60-oh195ea-elect...

I have no idea of the replacement cost of a troy built equivalent.

CarlBoyd

Do you know if these are direct bolt in replacements? Shaft size and
everythign correct? I have no idea on what I currently have.

stryped wrote:


Do you know if these are direct bolt in replacements? Shaft size and
everythign correct? I have no idea on what I currently have.

Yup! Direct replacement!

Think about that.

If you have not positively ID'd the engine, how, really, would we know
if the engine in the catalog is a direct replacement?

Figure out what you have, and what is actually wrong with it (to
determine whether it amounts to a simple repair, or a cost effective
transplant case) and take notes.

Horizontal or vertical shaft?

Shaft diameter and length? Connection method?

Any numbers stamped into the case?

Model number of the tiller?

Accessories like tanks and mufflers are easy enough to butcher into a
workable solution. Buying a motor with a tapered stub of a output shaft,
is going to leave you kinda ****ed, if what you need is a straight shaft
with a keyway on it.

If you need (or want ) a tiller, a brand new engine on the old one is
a far cheaper option than a new tiller.
A new engine may well be cheaper than the new parts, even if the
engine is not completely kacked, if you are stuck choosing between
dealer parts and a surplus store engine.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

On Fri, 11 Jul 2008 11:07:02 -0700, stryped wrote:

I have an older model Troy bilt horse. )I belive 1982. It is 6 horse
electric start. I was tilling yesterday and it made a metallic sound
then died. It has no compression when pulling the recoil starter.

HH60-105116Hser23230


Stryped, don't you have the Troy-Bilt book that came with the tiller.
It has pretty much everything you need in the way of instructions to strip
down and work on the engine I believe.
Our Troy-Bilt was purchased in about 1973 with that same Tecumseh 6 hp but
manual start - I just this summer passed it on to a buddy as we've moved
into an apartment; still running the same engine with no replacement parts
except a carb tune-up kit. Mind you I have worn out 4 sets of tines!
If you go for a replacement engine you need the reduced shaft, keyed, and
tapped for the bolt which secures the reverse fibre disc, measure each of
these 3 items before purchase. I believe the 4 mounting bolt holes should
be pretty standard, but it wouldn't hurt to check the bolt-circle on yours
against the replacement.
So there - 4 thingies to check out for your replacement.
HTH,
Mike in BC on a beautiful summer's day and gas in Burns Lake is still only
$1.399 a litre. Don't I feel warm and fuzzy! (sarcasm dripping fast)

stryped wrote:

Easy check: take the spark plug out, turn it over (by hand). *If you
don't see the piston moving, the rod is gone. *Then check back here.

Bob

I will do that. It did kind of make a "clanking" sound. It also put
out some white smoke. After it died, I checked the oil and it was bone
dry. (I know i am an idiot).

IIRC, my cousin did the same thing with a lawn mower 35 or so years ago. I replaced the
rod, had to polish off some stuck aluminum from the crank. It worked fine and cousin
checked the oil after that.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Fri, 11 Jul 2008 11:46:06 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Jul 11, 1:35=A0pm, "BillM" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in
=
.com...
I will do that. It did kind of make a "clanking"
sound. It also put
out some white smoke. After it died, I checked
the oil and it was bone
dry. (I know i am an idiot).

What brand of engine is it? =A0Most of the old
Troy-Bilt's used cast iron Kohler's.
One heck of a tough engine, but not tough enough
to run without oil!

It is a techumseh. So if it is a rod, would it be possible for me to
replace it and everythign be good to go?
Since this is a metalworking newsgroup maybe you should consider
repairing what you can and replacing what you can't. I had a similar
experience with an old Merry Tiller with a Clinton engine. Though I
thought I had checked the oil I obviously hadn't because when the rod
broke the engine was almost out of oil. Since Clinton engines are no
longer sold in the USA (maybe nowhere else either) I used google and
found a new old stock connecting rod to replace the old one that was
now in pieces. After cleaning the aluminum off of the crank throw it
became obvious that the crank would need to be reground or re-turned.
Using the 4 jaw and some aluminum tooling I turned the crank throw and
polished it. Now it was .030" undersize. So I bored out the connecting
..070 oversize and made new bronze bearing shells. Because bronze
doesn't loctite well to aluminum I used bronze pins as well as loctite
to hold the bearing shells in the connecting rod. The camshaft was
bent as well but it was easily straightened in the vise. The motor now
has at least 150 hours on it since being repaired and still runs well.
ERS

stryped wrote:
I have an older model Troy bilt horse. )I belive 1982. It is 6 horse
electric start. I was tilling yesterday and it made a metallic sound
then died. It has no compression when pulling the recoil starter.

I am debating fixing this or scraping and buying a cheaper one. Can
you tell me how much a replacement is? Do you sell rebuild kits for
my
current engine? Here are the numbers on it:


HH60-105116Hser23230


Also, I have found an engine used online. The model is H60-75505R
with
Serial 0096R. It is a manual start. It is sold as is for 75 plus
shipping. Can you tell me if this can be converted to electric start
using my current blown up engine?


Thanks!

My " Horse" model has a valve that sometimes sticks open. It make
metallic sounds and stops running
I change the oil and squirt somthing in the spark plug hole and then on
the valves. Turn it over a few time and it runs again. Don't remember
what I used the last time it acted up.

I really should take better care of it, but, hey it still works.

Bill K7NOM

On Fri, 11 Jul 2008 20:50:26 GMT, "BillM"
wrote:


"stryped" wrote in
message news:2b4baa08-e13a-47ce-9060-Do you know
if these are direct bolt in replacements? Shaft
size and
everythign correct? I have no idea on what I
currently have.

1. Disassemble
2. Repair/replace as needed
3.Re-assemble

Last year, Saturday morning saleing, a guy tried to sell me a B&S 3.5
disassembled in a box. Claimed mostly new parts that he never got
around to putting back together. This was just after I had dragged two
of them home for free, complete with wheels, blades and handles; all
they needed was a half hour of TLC. The other day, a 6.25 showed up
with a sticky recoil.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

My dad had the same thing happen and believe it or not.......went to harbor
freight and bought their 6 hp and it works great. He has been using it over
a year now. It is recoil start only though :-(. He said the shaft was the
same size but he had to get metric bolts to mount it but the orginal holes
were in the right place and size to work. Take good measurements. Your
mileage will/ may vary.
Good Luck Lyndell

"stryped" wrote in message
...
I have an older model Troy bilt horse. )I belive 1982. It is 6 horse
electric start. I was tilling yesterday and it made a metallic sound
then died. It has no compression when pulling the recoil starter.

I am debating fixing this or scraping and buying a cheaper one. Can
you tell me how much a replacement is? Do you sell rebuild kits for
my
current engine? Here are the numbers on it:


HH60-105116Hser23230


Also, I have found an engine used online. The model is H60-75505R
with
Serial 0096R. It is a manual start. It is sold as is for 75 plus
shipping. Can you tell me if this can be converted to electric start
using my current blown up engine?


Thanks!

Update:

Took spark plug out. The piston is not moving. WIth the tiller in
gear, pulling the recoil starter, the tiller will move. (Meaning I
guess the crank is not snapped in half or soemthing.

I plan on taking the engine out tonight.

By the way, I have a 3.5 horse engine layign around. It was attached
ot a pump at one time. Think this would work? It would probably be
underpowered.



On Jul 12, 2:05*pm, "Lyndell Thompson" wrote:
*My dad had the same thing happen and believe it or not.......went to harbor
freight and bought their 6 hp and it works great. He has been using it over
a year now. It is recoil start only though :-(. He said the shaft was the
same size but he had to get metric bolts to mount it but the orginal holes
were in the right place and size to work. Take good measurements. Your
mileage will/ may vary.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Good Luck * * * Lyndell

"stryped" wrote in message

...



I have an older model Troy bilt horse. )I belive 1982. It is 6 horse
electric start. I was tilling yesterday and it made a metallic sound
then died. It has no compression when pulling the recoil starter.

I am debating fixing this or scraping and buying a cheaper one. Can
you tell me how much a replacement is? Do you sell rebuild kits for
my
current engine? Here are the numbers on it:

HH60-105116Hser23230

Also, I have found an engine used online. The model is H60-75505R
with
Serial 0096R. It is a manual start. It is sold as is for 75 plus
shipping. Can you tell me if this can be converted to electric start
using my current blown up engine?

Thanks!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If it is the rod, could I weld it?????

On Jul 14, 7:31*am, stryped wrote:
Update:

Took spark plug out. The piston is not moving. WIth the tiller in
gear, pulling the recoil starter, the tiller will move. (Meaning I
guess the crank is not snapped in half or soemthing.

I plan on taking the engine out tonight.

By the way, I have a 3.5 horse engine layign around. It was attached
ot a pump at one time. Think this would work? It would probably be
underpowered.

On Jul 12, 2:05*pm, "Lyndell Thompson" wrote:



*My dad had the same thing happen and believe it or not.......went to harbor
freight and bought their 6 hp and it works great. He has been using it over
a year now. It is recoil start only though :-(. He said the shaft was the
same size but he had to get metric bolts to mount it but the orginal holes
were in the right place and size to work. Take good measurements. Your
mileage will/ may vary.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Good Luck * * * Lyndell

"stryped" wrote in message

....

I have an older model Troy bilt horse. )I belive 1982. It is 6 horse
electric start. I was tilling yesterday and it made a metallic sound
then died. It has no compression when pulling the recoil starter.

I am debating fixing this or scraping and buying a cheaper one. Can
you tell me how much a replacement is? Do you sell rebuild kits for
my
current engine? Here are the numbers on it:

HH60-105116Hser23230

Also, I have found an engine used online. The model is H60-75505R
with
Serial 0096R. It is a manual start. It is sold as is for 75 plus
shipping. Can you tell me if this can be converted to electric start
using my current blown up engine?

Thanks!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Jul 14, 8:55*am, stryped wrote:
If it is the rod, could I weld it?????

Probably, if you want to make a lamp out of it. You have zero chance
of keeping the two bores parallel because weld metal shrinks as it
cools.