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Default Should take better care of my Troy-bilt tiller (long).

Half of this memorial weekend was dedicated to the neglected Troy-belt. My
7hp cast iron Kohler horse tiller was purchased new from the mid 1970s. Not
that much use really, only on second set of bolo tines, but much neglected
left out in the open for a while and not maintained and loan it to all my
neighbors throughout the years. Couple of them did a few numbers to it like
ripping the pull rope off, lugging the engine all day long and ran the
tiller into the fence post and broke the carburetor right off into many
pieces and didn't tell me about it until I got it back weeks later. So it
looks old and warn out. Anyways, got around to it this weekend and try to
start it up. Flat tire, no spark, no gas so won't run. Tire was leaking from
the edge of the rim. A bitch to separate the tire from the rim and next time
I'll get a long tire spoon at Harbor Freight. Brush wired all the rust off
from the inside rim, added a coat of primer, reinstalled tire - now it hold
the air fine and not leaking.

Next was to fix the no spark situation. Did something stupid and took a lot
longer than necessary. Anyway, I visually inspected the points (big mistake,
explain later) and the contacts looked new and the spring action was strong.
Next was to measure resistance on both magneto primary and secondary - both
open circuits. Thought the magneto was fried. Kind of long process to remove
the flywheel and magneto but got it done anyway. Check clearance on magneto
with shims to get maximum induced voltage. Turnout best without shims - long
monkey motions in installing and removing the flywheel a couple more times
to check the clearances. Still no spark. Took the magneto on my kitchen
table and tested it with a single battery D cell - we have spark on the
secondary, a few thousand volts at that! Reinstalled the whole mess back and
tested for spark again. No spark, what the heck! Ok, I than put my meter
across the points and crank up the old Kohler. With the points closed and
tight, the meter read infinite ohms. So that was the problem even the
contact surfaces looked perfect and new. Only took couple of seconds to
clean up the points so this most day process of removing the flywheel could
have been avoided. Note to self: Always check the points with a meter before
tearing up the engine to get at the magneto. Visual inspection is worthless.

Next remove the carburetor, install the plug and squirt some starting fluid
and gave it pull. It started right up ... wonderful!

Now if I fix the carburetor, I could do some tilling the next day. I happen
to have a ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning parts but never tried a whole
carburetor. Put in a few drops of dish washing detergent and added hot water
(a trick learned from the wife on cleaning greasy hood filters). Put the
carb in, turn on the ultrasonic cleaner and went to bed. Next morning took
out the carb and blow dry with compressed air. Reinstall the carb and it
started right up - the Troy-bilt haven't sounded so good in years.

Might as well change the engine oil while I'm at it. Oil was black, really
black but not what your think. Oil looks fresh as it was the black graphite
oil from years ago. Remember those? Way did they stop making it? I must put
the oil in and let the tiller sat for years.

The last thing was to change the transmission oil. What came out of the
transmission was some thick slight foamy dark mustard yellow stuff - almost
about a gallon! Was it the 90 weight oil mixed with some water and rust?
Anyone knows? I have a little leak from the front end on the transmission.
Hope I don't have to tear into the tranny - maybe another chore for another
long weekend.

This much neglected Troy-belt with the cast iron Kohler engine has outlived
three lawn mowers (including one Honda mower I had for over 25 years!), 3
weed wackers, 2 chain saws and 6 cars. I think now it could outlast me.






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Default Should take better care of my Troy-bilt tiller (long).

I can appreciate your feelings, as I have a 1970s Troy-bilt tiller only mine
has a Tecumseh cast iron engine. Now that Troy-bilt is no longer made and
the company is defunct, I have greater appreciation of its quality and
durability.

"** Frank **" wrote in message
...
Half of this memorial weekend was dedicated to the neglected Troy-belt. My
7hp cast iron Kohler horse tiller was purchased new from the mid 1970s.
Not that much use really, only on second set of bolo tines, but much
neglected left out in the open for a while and not maintained and loan it
to all my neighbors throughout the years. Couple of them did a few numbers
to it like ripping the pull rope off, lugging the engine all day long and
ran the tiller into the fence post and broke the carburetor right off into
many pieces and didn't tell me about it until I got it back weeks later.
So it looks old and warn out. Anyways, got around to it this weekend and
try to start it up. Flat tire, no spark, no gas so won't run. Tire was
leaking from the edge of the rim. A bitch to separate the tire from the
rim and next time I'll get a long tire spoon at Harbor Freight. Brush
wired all the rust off from the inside rim, added a coat of primer,
reinstalled tire - now it hold the air fine and not leaking.

Next was to fix the no spark situation. Did something stupid and took a
lot longer than necessary. Anyway, I visually inspected the points (big
mistake, explain later) and the contacts looked new and the spring action
was strong. Next was to measure resistance on both magneto primary and
secondary - both open circuits. Thought the magneto was fried. Kind of
long process to remove the flywheel and magneto but got it done anyway.
Check clearance on magneto with shims to get maximum induced voltage.
Turnout best without shims - long monkey motions in installing and
removing the flywheel a couple more times to check the clearances. Still
no spark. Took the magneto on my kitchen table and tested it with a single
battery D cell - we have spark on the secondary, a few thousand volts at
that! Reinstalled the whole mess back and tested for spark again. No
spark, what the heck! Ok, I than put my meter across the points and crank
up the old Kohler. With the points closed and tight, the meter read
infinite ohms. So that was the problem even the contact surfaces looked
perfect and new. Only took couple of seconds to clean up the points so
this most day process of removing the flywheel could have been avoided.
Note to self: Always check the points with a meter before tearing up the
engine to get at the magneto. Visual inspection is worthless.

Next remove the carburetor, install the plug and squirt some starting
fluid and gave it pull. It started right up ... wonderful!

Now if I fix the carburetor, I could do some tilling the next day. I
happen to have a ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning parts but never tried a
whole carburetor. Put in a few drops of dish washing detergent and added
hot water (a trick learned from the wife on cleaning greasy hood filters).
Put the carb in, turn on the ultrasonic cleaner and went to bed. Next
morning took out the carb and blow dry with compressed air. Reinstall the
carb and it started right up - the Troy-bilt haven't sounded so good in
years.

Might as well change the engine oil while I'm at it. Oil was black, really
black but not what your think. Oil looks fresh as it was the black
graphite oil from years ago. Remember those? Way did they stop making it?
I must put the oil in and let the tiller sat for years.

The last thing was to change the transmission oil. What came out of the
transmission was some thick slight foamy dark mustard yellow stuff -
almost about a gallon! Was it the 90 weight oil mixed with some water and
rust? Anyone knows? I have a little leak from the front end on the
transmission. Hope I don't have to tear into the tranny - maybe another
chore for another long weekend.

This much neglected Troy-belt with the cast iron Kohler engine has
outlived three lawn mowers (including one Honda mower I had for over 25
years!), 3 weed wackers, 2 chain saws and 6 cars. I think now it could
outlast me.








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Default Should take better care of my Troy-bilt tiller (long).

EXT wrote:
I can appreciate your feelings, as I have a 1970s Troy-bilt tiller only mine
has a Tecumseh cast iron engine. Now that Troy-bilt is no longer made and
the company is defunct...


?

They're not in Troy, NY anymore...

But they're still being made... albeit without the "lifetime warranty"
that mine came with.

www.troybilt.com

As with many good(& not so good) companies, they have been
bought/sold/acquired, & evolved, but the brand & it's tiller
architecture continues on. Google up "Rototiller Inc.", WatCo, Garden
Way, & MTD for more info.

Rob

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