"Michael Koblic" wrote:

I have never used threadlockers before (but I have only recently discovered
the benefits of internal combustion engine, so forgive me!).

I spent some considerable time on the various web-sites and got only limited
answers to my questions. Here they are, I would be grateful for any advice:

1) How does a $14-threadlocker differ from a $2 Superglue?

Well superglue can be desolved in acetone. At temperatures over 250F
superglue gives up.

Blue loctite generally comes loose with wrench force. Red, well you have to
use heat. I've loosely assembled a nut and bolt using red and then tried to
disassemble it a day or so later. The bolt was distorting as the bond let
go. I was impressed.

I had to know since when the hub cracked on my varidrive, I turned off the
hub, threaded the sheeve and new hub, coated with red loctite and dutch
pinned it for extra insurance.

http://wess.freeshell.org/Driven_fro...b_dutchpin.jpg

5) Where does the "Green" threadlocker fit in strength-wise? I understand
you put it on a fastener already in place, but what kind of result can be
expected?

I've used green. A bit like blue put on the right way. I used it on spoke
nipples that tended to loosen. (Clydesdale body)


Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

I have never used threadlockers before (but I have only recently discovered
the benefits of internal combustion engine, so forgive me!).

I spent some considerable time on the various web-sites and got only limited
answers to my questions. Here they are, I would be grateful for any advice:

1) How does a $14-threadlocker differ from a $2 Superglue? I gather the
threadlockers are anaerobic. Does that mean that superglue is aerobic?
2) How long does it take for a threadlocker (say Loctite 242) to cure?
3) The purple, blue and red are different strengths. I just could not get a
picture of *how much* they differ. I gather you need heat to loosen up the
red, but what about the others?
4) Why the different thread size recommendation?
5) Where does the "Green" threadlocker fit in strength-wise? I understand
you put it on a fastener already in place, but what kind of result can be
expected?

I just did an experiment: Put a 1/2" nut half-way on a bolt and then
dribbled some cheap superglue into the cavity. It took its sweet time curing
(as observed by the behaviour of the small droplet in the middle of the
cavity), but then I had to grip the bolt in a pipe-vise (ordinary vise would
not do) and managed to get the nut off with a 3/4" spanner. On inspection,
only about 3 threads were engaged and there was still residue of uncured
glue on them.

Thanks for help,

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Michael Koblic wrote:
I have never used threadlockers before (but I have only recently discovered
the benefits of internal combustion engine, so forgive me!).

I spent some considerable time on the various web-sites and got only limited
answers to my questions. Here they are, I would be grateful for any advice:

1) How does a $14-threadlocker differ from a $2 Superglue? I gather the
threadlockers are anaerobic. Does that mean that superglue is aerobic?
2) How long does it take for a threadlocker (say Loctite 242) to cure?
3) The purple, blue and red are different strengths. I just could not get a
picture of *how much* they differ. I gather you need heat to loosen up the
red, but what about the others?
4) Why the different thread size recommendation?
5) Where does the "Green" threadlocker fit in strength-wise? I understand
you put it on a fastener already in place, but what kind of result can be
expected?

I just did an experiment: Put a 1/2" nut half-way on a bolt and then
dribbled some cheap superglue into the cavity. It took its sweet time curing
(as observed by the behaviour of the small droplet in the middle of the
cavity), but then I had to grip the bolt in a pipe-vise (ordinary vise would
not do) and managed to get the nut off with a 3/4" spanner. On inspection,
only about 3 threads were engaged and there was still residue of uncured
glue on them.

Thanks for help,


Question 1, a threadlocker gives you some working time for assembly in
terms of minutes or more depending on the product, superglue goes off in
seconds so I would expect it to start setting before the piece may have
been fully assembled.

Question 2, google the likes of "loctite 242", it turns up the technical
documents at Henkel IIRC. Like http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/242-EN.PDF
which probably gives you more information than you wanted to know.

Question 4, from experience it is not a good idea to use a high strength
locker on a small thread ~ 3-4mm or less as you may not be able to get
it undone as the head or drive such as socket may not be strong enough.

Michael Koblic wrote:

1) How does a $14-threadlocker differ from a $2 Superglue? I gather the
threadlockers are anaerobic. Does that mean that superglue is aerobic?


I'm told Loctite type products are sold in containers that allow air to
permeate through the walls. So, don't decant the stuff into glass jars
for example, or it'll all go off.

My nephew had a toy slot car, where the transmission pinion had come
loose from the motor shaft. Man in shop selling these cars said it was a
common problem, but to just use some superglue to fix. I thought Loctite
would be better, but it didn't take long for it to come loose again. I
then tried the superglue, and it didn't happened again. Probably the
wrong grade of Loctite for the job, but I have a new respect for the glue.

Jordan

"David Billington" wrote in message
...
Question 2, google the likes of "loctite 242", it turns up the technical
documents at Henkel IIRC. Like http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/242-EN.PDF
which probably gives you more information than you wanted to know.

I spent 3 hours yesterday looking for this very page! All I got is MSDS and
other waffle! Grrrrr!

Thanks, this is all good stuff I wanted to know.

And a supplementary: Does anyone believe there is a significant difference
between threadlockers by different manufacturers (Loctite, Permatex,
Safe-t-lok etc. etc.)?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Super glue can be very strong, but it can also be quite brittle. I wouldn't
trust it where there a cyclic stresses or vibration.

"Michael Koblic" wrote in message
rvecommunications...

"David Billington" wrote in message
...
Question 2, google the likes of "loctite 242", it turns up the technical
documents at Henkel IIRC. Like http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/242-EN.PDF
which probably gives you more information than you wanted to know.

I spent 3 hours yesterday looking for this very page! All I got is MSDS
and other waffle! Grrrrr!

Thanks, this is all good stuff I wanted to know.

And a supplementary: Does anyone believe there is a significant difference
between threadlockers by different manufacturers (Loctite, Permatex,
Safe-t-lok etc. etc.)?

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

I think Loctite is now owned by Permatex, so perhaps their products are the
same. I have no idea about Saft-t-lok but for routine use I suspect any of
the products would be satisfactory. For critical or production use I would
think that testing would be advisable.

Don Young

Another problem with threadlockers I just miserably discovered was that
they are *lethal* to some plastics. I was trying to assemble some banana
jacks with brass nuts on brass posts with plastic standoff bushings for
insulation, and the plastic parts literally crumbled after a few minutes
from the bit of Loctite 242 that wicked over from the metal. I had
different jacks that must have used a different plastic species, because
they were OK with the same contact. I see the Loctite sez "not normally
recommended for use on plastics", but really, what a weasling warning.

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Another problem with threadlockers I just miserably discovered was that
they are *lethal* to some plastics. I was trying to assemble some banana
jacks with brass nuts on brass posts with plastic standoff bushings for
insulation, and the plastic parts literally crumbled after a few minutes
from the bit of Loctite 242 that wicked over from the metal. I had
different jacks that must have used a different plastic species, because
they were OK with the same contact. I see the Loctite sez "not normally
recommended for use on plastics", but really, what a weasling warning.

IIRC loctite type products also give a significantly lower strength bond
on brass than they do on steel.

"Michael Koblic" writes:

1) How does a $14-threadlocker differ from a $2 Superglue? I gather the
threadlockers are anaerobic. Does that mean that superglue is aerobic?

Cyanoacrylate (super glue) sets on contact with water vapour in the air
(or on your skin, if applied there). It's stored in a container that is
sealed to prevent contact with the air.

Threadlockers are weird plastics that remain liquid as long as they are
in contact with oxygen. They are stored in bottles that are permeable
to oxygen, and which have a significant air space above the liquid.
They set only when you isolate them from oxygen, such as in the space
between a bolt and nut thread.

Dave

On May 19, 3:06*pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:
I have never used threadlockers before (but I have only recently discovered
the benefits of internal combustion engine, so forgive me!).

I spent some considerable time on the various web-sites and got only limited
answers to my questions. Here they are, I would be grateful for any advice:

1) How does a $14-threadlocker differ from a $2 Superglue? I gather the
threadlockers are anaerobic. Does that mean that superglue is aerobic?
2) How long does it take for a threadlocker (say Loctite 242) to cure?
3) The purple, blue and red are different strengths. I just could not get a
picture of *how much* they differ. I gather you need heat to loosen up the
red, but what about the others?
4) Why the different thread size recommendation?
5) Where does the "Green" threadlocker fit in strength-wise? I understand
you put it on a fastener already in place, but what kind of result can be
expected?

I just did an experiment: Put a 1/2" nut half-way on a bolt and then
dribbled some cheap superglue into the cavity. It took its sweet time curing
(as observed by the behaviour of the small droplet in the middle of the
cavity), but then I had to grip the bolt in a pipe-vise (ordinary vise would
not do) and managed to get the nut off with a 3/4" spanner. On inspection,
only about 3 threads were engaged and there was still residue of uncured
glue on them.

Thanks for help,

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Superglue is cyanoacrylic stuff, cures by exposure to moisture.
Generally has a short shelf life even if refrigerated. NOT the same
stuff as Loctite threadlockers and cousins. Those are methacrylates
that cure by exposure to metal ions and exclusion of oxygen.
Packaging is such that there is no metal in it and the bottles/tubes
are air-permeable. I've had Loctite be able to cure after sitting for
years on the shelf.

Now don't get confused, Loctite also makes/packages cyanoacrylic glues
under the Loctite name, but like I said, NOT the same stuff. Cure
rate for the threadlockers depends on contamination of the threads
involved, grade of threadlocker and size of gap to be filled. Some
grades work better than others with wider gaps. Temperature has a lot
to do with things, a slow pass over a 100 watt light bulb can speed
things up a lot as well as cleaning stuff off with the primer/
accelerator. Some types refuse to cure at all if the gap is too
large. Too much oxygen, not enough metal. Best to have grease-free
parts and close tolerances.

Stan

On May 20, 6:15 pm, wrote:
On May 19, 3:06 pm, "Michael Koblic" wrote:



I have never used threadlockers before (but I have only recently discovered
the benefits of internal combustion engine, so forgive me!).

I spent some considerable time on the various web-sites and got only limited
answers to my questions. Here they are, I would be grateful for any advice:

1) How does a $14-threadlocker differ from a $2 Superglue? I gather the
threadlockers are anaerobic. Does that mean that superglue is aerobic?
2) How long does it take for a threadlocker (say Loctite 242) to cure?
3) The purple, blue and red are different strengths. I just could not get a
picture of *how much* they differ. I gather you need heat to loosen up the
red, but what about the others?
4) Why the different thread size recommendation?
5) Where does the "Green" threadlocker fit in strength-wise? I understand
you put it on a fastener already in place, but what kind of result can be
expected?

I just did an experiment: Put a 1/2" nut half-way on a bolt and then
dribbled some cheap superglue into the cavity. It took its sweet time curing
(as observed by the behaviour of the small droplet in the middle of the
cavity), but then I had to grip the bolt in a pipe-vise (ordinary vise would
not do) and managed to get the nut off with a 3/4" spanner. On inspection,
only about 3 threads were engaged and there was still residue of uncured
glue on them.

Thanks for help,

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

Superglue is cyanoacrylic stuff, cures by exposure to moisture.
Generally has a short shelf life even if refrigerated. NOT the same
stuff as Loctite threadlockers and cousins. Those are methacrylates
that cure by exposure to metal ions and exclusion of oxygen.
Packaging is such that there is no metal in it and the bottles/tubes
are air-permeable. I've had Loctite be able to cure after sitting for
years on the shelf.

Now don't get confused, Loctite also makes/packages cyanoacrylic glues
under the Loctite name, but like I said, NOT the same stuff. Cure
rate for the threadlockers depends on contamination of the threads
involved, grade of threadlocker and size of gap to be filled. Some
grades work better than others with wider gaps. Temperature has a lot
to do with things, a slow pass over a 100 watt light bulb can speed
things up a lot as well as cleaning stuff off with the primer/
accelerator. Some types refuse to cure at all if the gap is too
large. Too much oxygen, not enough metal. Best to have grease-free
parts and close tolerances.

Stan

Threadlockers won't cure in the presence of oxygen, nor in
absence of iron unless a primer is used. So on brass or aluminum they
don't cure well without the primer (or accelerator or catalyst or
whatever you want to call it. Loctite sells the primer. 7649N or some
such number.
Loctite 222 is purple low-strength stuff for small
fasteners. Smal screws will twist off with stringer threadlockers. 242
is blue and medium strength, and is handy for sealing air line
fittings. Sets almost instantly. 262 is high-strength, red. 292 is
green and runny for wicking into already-fastened parts. There are a
bunch more, like RC680 for retaining bearings and so forth, and
another for sealing hydraulic fittings. Forget the number. Go he
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut..._compounds.htm

Dan

"Dave Martindale" wrote in message
...
"Michael Koblic" writes:

1) How does a $14-threadlocker differ from a $2 Superglue? I gather the
threadlockers are anaerobic. Does that mean that superglue is aerobic?

Cyanoacrylate (super glue) sets on contact with water vapour in the air
(or on your skin, if applied there). It's stored in a container that is
sealed to prevent contact with the air.

Threadlockers are weird plastics that remain liquid as long as they are
in contact with oxygen. They are stored in bottles that are permeable
to oxygen, and which have a significant air space above the liquid.
They set only when you isolate them from oxygen, such as in the space
between a bolt and nut thread.

Dave

no, the above statement about superglue is just plain wrong - it does NOT
cure upon contact with moisture in the air - you are thinking of Silicone
rubber - I use superglue on woodturning projects (some examples might be
seen in the gallery on my web page or at www.woodturners.org) - and I keep
the bottle in my shop, open to the air - the current 1 pint bottle has been
there for 3 years and it has not hardened up. What makes it harden up is
lack of air and contact with a foreign substance - in particular there is
something in the fungus that gets into wood that really catalyzes the
reaction - but for sure it isn't moisture.


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On 2008-05-21, David R. Birch wrote:
wrote:

Threadlockers won't cure in the presence of oxygen, nor in
absence of iron unless a primer is used. So on brass or aluminum they
don't cure well without the primer (or accelerator or catalyst or
whatever you want to call it. Loctite sells the primer. 7649N or some
such number.
Loctite 222 is purple low-strength stuff for small
fasteners. Smal screws will twist off with stringer threadlockers. 242
is blue and medium strength, and is handy for sealing air line
fittings. Sets almost instantly. 262 is high-strength, red. 292 is
green and runny for wicking into already-fastened parts. There are a
bunch more, like RC680 for retaining bearings and so forth, and
another for sealing hydraulic fittings. Forget the number. Go he
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut..._compounds.htm

Dan

What would be the best for securely fastening a military Mauser rear
sight base that surrounds the barrel? It does not have to be easily
removed.

Well ... mine was soft soldered in place.

And I think that the repeated (though small) expansion of the
barrel during firing will break the joint of any threadlocker like
Loctite, which gets rather brittle as it sets up.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 20 May 2008 21:49:36 -0500, "David R. Birch"
wrote:

wrote:

Threadlockers won't cure in the presence of oxygen, nor in
absence of iron unless a primer is used. So on brass or aluminum they
don't cure well without the primer (or accelerator or catalyst or
whatever you want to call it. Loctite sells the primer. 7649N or some
such number.
Loctite 222 is purple low-strength stuff for small
fasteners. Smal screws will twist off with stringer threadlockers. 242
is blue and medium strength, and is handy for sealing air line
fittings. Sets almost instantly. 262 is high-strength, red. 292 is
green and runny for wicking into already-fastened parts. There are a
bunch more, like RC680 for retaining bearings and so forth, and
another for sealing hydraulic fittings. Forget the number. Go he
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut..._compounds.htm

Dan

What would be the best for securely fastening a military Mauser rear
sight base that surrounds the barrel? It does not have to be easily
removed.

David


Silver solder.

Unless you never will fire the rifle. 5 rapid fire shots could cause
the barrel to heat enough to break the bond.

Gunner

On Tue, 20 May 2008 20:48:49 -0700, "William Noble"
wrote:


"Dave Martindale" wrote in message
...
"Michael Koblic" writes:

1) How does a $14-threadlocker differ from a $2 Superglue? I gather the
threadlockers are anaerobic. Does that mean that superglue is aerobic?

Cyanoacrylate (super glue) sets on contact with water vapour in the air
(or on your skin, if applied there). It's stored in a container that is
sealed to prevent contact with the air.

Threadlockers are weird plastics that remain liquid as long as they are
in contact with oxygen. They are stored in bottles that are permeable
to oxygen, and which have a significant air space above the liquid.
They set only when you isolate them from oxygen, such as in the space
between a bolt and nut thread.

Dave

no, the above statement about superglue is just plain wrong - it does NOT
cure upon contact with moisture in the air - you are thinking of Silicone
rubber - I use superglue on woodturning projects (some examples might be
seen in the gallery on my web page or at www.woodturners.org) - and I keep
the bottle in my shop, open to the air - the current 1 pint bottle has been
there for 3 years and it has not hardened up. What makes it harden up is
lack of air and contact with a foreign substance - in particular there is
something in the fungus that gets into wood that really catalyzes the
reaction - but for sure it isn't moisture.


** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

for cyanoacrylate glue (alpha cyanoacrylate ester) it does indeed get
set by contact with moisture.

I dont know what glue you are using but it doesnt sound like cyano.
Stealth Pilot

"William Noble" wrote in message
...

"Dave Martindale" wrote in message
...
"Michael Koblic" writes:

1) How does a $14-threadlocker differ from a $2 Superglue? I gather the
threadlockers are anaerobic. Does that mean that superglue is aerobic?

Cyanoacrylate (super glue) sets on contact with water vapour in the air
(or on your skin, if applied there). It's stored in a container that is
sealed to prevent contact with the air.

Threadlockers are weird plastics that remain liquid as long as they are
in contact with oxygen. They are stored in bottles that are permeable
to oxygen, and which have a significant air space above the liquid.
They set only when you isolate them from oxygen, such as in the space
between a bolt and nut thread.

Dave

no, the above statement about superglue is just plain wrong - it does NOT
cure upon contact with moisture in the air - you are thinking of Silicone
rubber - I use superglue on woodturning projects (some examples might be
seen in the gallery on my web page or at www.woodturners.org) - and I keep
the bottle in my shop, open to the air - the current 1 pint bottle has
been there for 3 years and it has not hardened up. What makes it harden
up is lack of air and contact with a foreign substance - in particular
there is something in the fungus that gets into wood that really catalyzes
the reaction - but for sure it isn't moisture.

Something is getting misconscrewed here, William. Cyanoacrylate glues
("superglue") are generally moisture-cure, aerobic adhesives. The acrylic
adhesives used in the standard varietes of Loctite and competing
thread-lockers are acrylic adhesives formulated to be anaerobic-curing.

I don't know if it's possible to make an anaerobic cyanoacrylate, but maybe
so. That's not what you buy in the hardware stores, though.

Dave's description is correct. I spent a day at Loctite's headquarters many
years ago going over exactly this subject with them, researching a 12-page
American Machinist Special Report on adhesive assembly in metalworking.
Those little plastic vials that Loctite comes in are porous to oxygen.

--
Ed Huntress

Stealth Pilot writes:

for cyanoacrylate glue (alpha cyanoacrylate ester) it does indeed get
set by contact with moisture.

CA glues set by polymerization on their own, not like polymers which set by
combining with external stuff (which is why they'll eventually set up in
the tube even if kept in zero humidity). Accelerators are available to
trigger this polymerization. Mere water is not one of them, and a good
thing, too. The instant bonding to skin is not due to water, as any simple
experiment will show.

"David R. Birch" wrote:

What would be the best for securely fastening a military Mauser rear
sight base that surrounds the barrel? It does not have to be easily
removed.

Staking?

On 2008-05-21, Gunner wrote:
On Tue, 20 May 2008 21:49:36 -0500, "David R. Birch"
wrote:

[ ... ]

What would be the best for securely fastening a military Mauser rear
sight base that surrounds the barrel? It does not have to be easily
removed.

David


Silver solder.

Unless you never will fire the rifle. 5 rapid fire shots could cause
the barrel to heat enough to break the bond.

The thermal expansion -- or just the mechanical expansion during
the moment of firing. It doesn't take much of that to break the bond of
Loctite.

Silver solder for a rear sight base soldered to the top surface
of the barrel only -- but My 8mm Mauser had the rear sight base as part
of a sleeve which fit around the whole barrel, and it was attached with
soft solder -- since I was able to heat it enough to slide it off with a
propane torch and little difficulty.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 21 May 2008 16:38:12 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Stealth Pilot writes:

for cyanoacrylate glue (alpha cyanoacrylate ester) it does indeed get
set by contact with moisture.

CA glues set by polymerization on their own, not like polymers which set by
combining with external stuff (which is why they'll eventually set up in
the tube even if kept in zero humidity). Accelerators are available to
trigger this polymerization. Mere water is not one of them, and a good
thing, too. The instant bonding to skin is not due to water, as any simple
experiment will show.

********

Stealth Pilot wrote:
On Wed, 21 May 2008 16:38:12 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:


Stealth Pilot writes:


for cyanoacrylate glue (alpha cyanoacrylate ester) it does indeed get
set by contact with moisture.

CA glues set by polymerization on their own, not like polymers which set by
combining with external stuff (which is why they'll eventually set up in
the tube even if kept in zero humidity). Accelerators are available to
trigger this polymerization. Mere water is not one of them, and a good
thing, too. The instant bonding to skin is not due to water, as any simple
experiment will show.


********


Mix up a solution of baking soda and water for an instant accellerator.

I've used dry baking soda and CA as "tack welds" to hold fiberglass
parts together for final bonding.

Richard
--

On Thu, 22 May 2008 14:48:24 -0500, cavelamb himself
wrote:

Stealth Pilot wrote:
On Wed, 21 May 2008 16:38:12 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:


Stealth Pilot writes:


for cyanoacrylate glue (alpha cyanoacrylate ester) it does indeed get
set by contact with moisture.

CA glues set by polymerization on their own, not like polymers which set by
combining with external stuff (which is why they'll eventually set up in
the tube even if kept in zero humidity). Accelerators are available to
trigger this polymerization. Mere water is not one of them, and a good
thing, too. The instant bonding to skin is not due to water, as any simple
experiment will show.


********


Mix up a solution of baking soda and water for an instant accellerator.

I've used dry baking soda and CA as "tack welds" to hold fiberglass
parts together for final bonding.

Richard

my god you're at the leading edge of technology.
I think I was doing that in the early 80's.
.....and this proves what???

there is moisture evaporating from your skin most of the time.
Stealth Pilot

Michael Koblic wrote in article
ommunications...
I have never used threadlockers before (but I have only recently
discovered
the benefits of internal combustion engine, so forgive me!).

I spent some considerable time on the various web-sites and got only
limited
answers to my questions. Here they are, I would be grateful for any
advice:

1) How does a $14-threadlocker differ from a $2 Superglue? I gather the
threadlockers are anaerobic. Does that mean that superglue is aerobic?
2) How long does it take for a threadlocker (say Loctite 242) to cure?
3) The purple, blue and red are different strengths. I just could not get
a
picture of *how much* they differ. I gather you need heat to loosen up
the
red, but what about the others?
4) Why the different thread size recommendation?
5) Where does the "Green" threadlocker fit in strength-wise? I understand

you put it on a fastener already in place, but what kind of result can be

expected?

I just did an experiment: Put a 1/2" nut half-way on a bolt and then
dribbled some cheap superglue into the cavity. It took its sweet time
curing
(as observed by the behaviour of the small droplet in the middle of the
cavity), but then I had to grip the bolt in a pipe-vise (ordinary vise
would
not do) and managed to get the nut off with a 3/4" spanner. On
inspection,
only about 3 threads were engaged and there was still residue of uncured
glue on them.

Thanks for help,

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC




I'm sure roofing tar would give you a similar result.

Why not use it - at $12/gallon - instead of the correct tool for the job?