Spent better part of 4 hours installing an automatic drain on my 60 gallon
vertical tank air compressor. It's a Quincy 6.5 hp dual stage.

Time spent was looking for fittings, going to the store, wrong fittings,
wrong threads, scrounge through my collection of brass again, learn to swage
copper tubing and PRESTO I finally had it all together. I had used my car
hoist to raise the compressor off the ground for ease of work. When I
lowered it back down I noticed that it 'rocks' on its mounts (4 legs).
Well, the drain valve assembly is slightly taller than space between the
tank bottom and the ground. About a half of an inch.

Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this compressor to sit
higher off the ground? I'm thinking maybe bolt it to a 3/4" plywood base
and simply cut a, say, 4" diameter circle in the middle of the plywood. Any
better ideas that are quick and easy?

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

The quickest idea is to redo this correctly. This is what I only
learned recently. Sometimes redoing is the best option.

i

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:Hhs4j.3212$6k1.2597@trndny02...
Spent better part of 4 hours installing an automatic drain on my 60 gallon
vertical tank air compressor. It's a Quincy 6.5 hp dual stage.

snip
Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this compressor to
sit higher off the ground? I'm thinking maybe bolt it to a 3/4" plywood
base and simply cut a, say, 4" diameter circle in the middle of the
plywood. Any better ideas that are quick and easy?

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary
If the legs have bolt holes in them you could set bolts in head down with
locknuts on each side of the hole. You could jack it level at the same
time.
Randy

On Sun, 02 Dec 2007 07:26:25 GMT, "Randy Zimmerman"
wrote:


"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:Hhs4j.3212$6k1.2597@trndny02...
Spent better part of 4 hours installing an automatic drain on my 60 gallon
vertical tank air compressor. It's a Quincy 6.5 hp dual stage.

snip
Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this compressor to
sit higher off the ground? I'm thinking maybe bolt it to a 3/4" plywood
base and simply cut a, say, 4" diameter circle in the middle of the
plywood. Any better ideas that are quick and easy?

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary
If the legs have bolt holes in them you could set bolts in head down with
locknuts on each side of the hole. You could jack it level at the same
time.
Randy

Or just make some longer legs and weld them to the existing legs.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Well, the drain valve assembly is slightly taller than space between the
tank bottom and the ground. Â*About a half of an inch.

G. We all do make mistakes. You are not alone!


Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this compressor to
sit higher off the ground?

I'd use some rubber-shoes (if you call it that way). Some round rubber with
a thread sticking out on one side. So you are improving two things at a
time.


Nick
--
The lowcost-DRO:
http://www.yadro.de

Install vibration isolation pads under the feet. Kind of a
win/win deal.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:Hhs4j.3212$6k1.2597@trndny02...
Spent better part of 4 hours installing an automatic drain on my
60 gallon vertical tank air compressor. It's a Quincy 6.5 hp
dual stage.

Time spent was looking for fittings, going to the store, wrong
fittings, wrong threads, scrounge through my collection of brass
again, learn to swage copper tubing and PRESTO I finally had it
all together. I had used my car hoist to raise the compressor
off the ground for ease of work. When I lowered it back down I
noticed that it 'rocks' on its mounts (4 legs). Well, the drain
valve assembly is slightly taller than space between the tank
bottom and the ground. About a half of an inch.

Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this
compressor to sit higher off the ground? I'm thinking maybe
bolt it to a 3/4" plywood base and simply cut a, say, 4"
diameter circle in the middle of the plywood. Any better ideas
that are quick and easy?

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

On Sun, 02 Dec 2007 06:29:59 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:

Spent better part of 4 hours installing an automatic drain on my 60 gallon
vertical tank air compressor. It's a Quincy 6.5 hp dual stage.

Time spent was looking for fittings, going to the store, wrong fittings,
wrong threads, scrounge through my collection of brass again, learn to swage
copper tubing and PRESTO I finally had it all together. I had used my car
hoist to raise the compressor off the ground for ease of work. When I
lowered it back down I noticed that it 'rocks' on its mounts (4 legs).
Well, the drain valve assembly is slightly taller than space between the
tank bottom and the ground. About a half of an inch.

Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this compressor to sit
higher off the ground? I'm thinking maybe bolt it to a 3/4" plywood base
and simply cut a, say, 4" diameter circle in the middle of the plywood. Any
better ideas that are quick and easy?

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

Hey Ivan,

First off, my compressor shipped years ago with the tank legs bolted
to a wooden "frame". I never took that wood off, and always felt that
it helped reduce the noise when operating on the concrete floor. So
that would theoretically allow more space under than you have. More
recently I located the compressor such that it blocks the electrics
and motor of one of my lathes. Not good, so I stuck four casters on
the "corners" of the wood to make it possible to move the compressor
around. It's actually pretty easy to move, yet it surprisingly
doesn't "walk around" when running. OOMV on that!

Didn't the very bottom of the tank on yours already have an outlet
with a 90 degree fitting and a length of 1/4" or 3/8" pipe to a
manual valve projecting outboard of the tank?

The pipe projecting from under the tank on mine already had the manual
drain valve factory installed. The "open" side of the drain valve has
a short nipple, a 90, and a 3" nipple. This last 90 and the 3" nipple
allow the "discharge" during draining to be loosely aimed in a desired
direction.

All I did was mount a (female threaded) male quick-disconnect nipple
on the end of the 3" piece, and mounted all the "automatic stuff" on
the female of the quick disconnect coupling. The manual valve then is
set and remains "open". This allows fast removal of the "automatic
stuff" if need be, and then would still allow use of the manual
valve without further effort. I still discharge mine into an
absorbent "sock".

I close the main tank supply-line valve and shut my compressor power
off at night, just in case it were to blow a hose or something. My
automatic drain is set to discharge for 10 seconds when power is
turned on in the morning, and every 4 hours, whether the compressor
has run or not. Simplified things. I rarely see much of any moisture
in the discharge area, so I believe it works very well.

Photos available on request.

Take care. Season's Greetings.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

ps......... this thread reminds me that some time back, I helped
"Kory" out with information on how I did mine. I have not read
anything from him for a loooonnnggg time. Anybody know why?

In article Hhs4j.3212$6k1.2597@trndny02,
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote:

Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this compressor to sit
higher off the ground? I'm thinking maybe bolt it to a 3/4" plywood base
and simply cut a, say, 4" diameter circle in the middle of the plywood. Any
better ideas that are quick and easy?

Buy 4 hockey pucks and 4 carriage bolts. Drill the pucks, counter bore
just a smidge to clear the head, stuff in the carriage bolts, bolt to
feet.

Alternative 2, with vibration-damping possibilities - find a used tire
of a size that will allow you to bolt the compressor feet to the
sidewall - drill/punch 4 holes, bolt it on, done.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in
news:Hhs4j.3212$6k1.2597@trndny02:


Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this compressor
to sit higher off the ground? I'm thinking maybe bolt it to a 3/4"
plywood base and simply cut a, say, 4" diameter circle in the middle
of the plywood. Any better ideas that are quick and easy?


Use the KISS principle... 4 short pcs of 2x4 bolted to the legs to act as
feet/vibration absorbers.



--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

"Ignoramus13880" wrote in message
...
The quickest idea is to redo this correctly. This is what I only
learned recently. Sometimes redoing is the best option.

i
Iggy, at first I had no idea what the hell you're talking about. Then,
reading other posts I realized that, yes, there is another solution and I
will redo accordingly. I'll simply put a 3/8" "ell" at the compressor
bottom outlet and bring the whole "automatic drain" assembly toward the edge
of the vertical tank where there is more clearance (i.e., tank bottom is
rounded, more clearance near edge). Somewhere along the 3/8" horizontal run
I will put a "tee" and reinstall the original drain cock. And yes, I will
also raise the whole assembly with some sort of vibration damping material

Thanks Iggy, you always inspire thought!

Ivan Vegvary

On 2007-12-02, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

"Ignoramus13880" wrote in message
...
The quickest idea is to redo this correctly. This is what I only
learned recently. Sometimes redoing is the best option.

Iggy, at first I had no idea what the hell you're talking about. Then,
reading other posts I realized that, yes, there is another solution and I
will redo accordingly. I'll simply put a 3/8" "ell" at the compressor
bottom outlet and bring the whole "automatic drain" assembly toward the edge
of the vertical tank where there is more clearance (i.e., tank bottom is
rounded, more clearance near edge). Somewhere along the 3/8" horizontal run
I will put a "tee" and reinstall the original drain cock. And yes, I will
also raise the whole assembly with some sort of vibration damping material

Thanks Iggy, you always inspire thought!

Ivan, that's great, and that's how I would do it also.

i

"Brian Lawson" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 02 Dec 2007 06:29:59 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"

First off, my compressor shipped years ago with the tank legs bolted
to a wooden "frame". I never took that wood off, and always felt that
it helped reduce the noise when operating on the concrete floor. So
that would theoretically allow more space under than you have. More
recently I located the compressor such that it blocks the electrics
and motor of one of my lathes. Not good, so I stuck four casters on
the "corners" of the wood to make it possible to move the compressor
around. It's actually pretty easy to move, yet it surprisingly
doesn't "walk around" when running. OOMV on that!

Didn't the very bottom of the tank on yours already have an outlet
with a 90 degree fitting and a length of 1/4" or 3/8" pipe to a
manual valve projecting outboard of the tank?

No 90° fitting on this baby! But, until I read your kind reply I had never
considered that the whole assembly could be brought to the edge where there
is not only more room but is accessible. I never quite believed that people
complied with the "Drain Compressor Daily or after each use" caution that is
posted on the compressor. On mine you would have to lie flat on your back
to reach under and loosen the petcock. Wasn't about to do that "daily".

Thanks Brian
Ivan Vegvary

"Ecnerwal" wrote in message
...
In article Hhs4j.3212$6k1.2597@trndny02,
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote:

Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this compressor to
sit
higher off the ground? I'm thinking maybe bolt it to a 3/4" plywood base
and simply cut a, say, 4" diameter circle in the middle of the plywood.
Any
better ideas that are quick and easy?

Buy 4 hockey pucks and 4 carriage bolts. Drill the pucks, counter bore
just a smidge to clear the head, stuff in the carriage bolts, bolt to
feet.

Alternative 2, with vibration-damping possibilities - find a used tire
of a size that will allow you to bolt the compressor feet to the
sidewall - drill/punch 4 holes, bolt it on, done.

Thanks, will be looking for rubber scrap right away.
Ivan Vegvary

"Anthony" wrote in message
...
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in
news:Hhs4j.3212$6k1.2597@trndny02:


Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this compressor
to sit higher off the ground? I'm thinking maybe bolt it to a 3/4"
plywood base and simply cut a, say, 4" diameter circle in the middle
of the plywood. Any better ideas that are quick and easy?


Use the KISS principle... 4 short pcs of 2x4 bolted to the legs to act as
feet/vibration absorbers.

Thanks, will be using your 2x4 solution until I find some rubber.

Ivan Vegvary

The best vibration solution for my compressor was to follow Gunner's
suggestion and use some used plush carpeting.

i

On Sun, 02 Dec 2007 06:29:59 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:

Spent better part of 4 hours installing an automatic drain on my 60 gallon
vertical tank air compressor. It's a Quincy 6.5 hp dual stage.

Time spent was looking for fittings, going to the store, wrong fittings,
wrong threads, scrounge through my collection of brass again, learn to swage
copper tubing and PRESTO I finally had it all together. I had used my car
hoist to raise the compressor off the ground for ease of work. When I
lowered it back down I noticed that it 'rocks' on its mounts (4 legs).
Well, the drain valve assembly is slightly taller than space between the
tank bottom and the ground. About a half of an inch.

Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this compressor to sit
higher off the ground? I'm thinking maybe bolt it to a 3/4" plywood base
and simply cut a, say, 4" diameter circle in the middle of the plywood. Any
better ideas that are quick and easy?

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

Bolt a couple of 2X4s to the legs.
Or weld a couple lenths of steel tube (square) to the bottom of the
legs if there is no way to bolt 2X4s on.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sun, 02 Dec 2007 11:46:51 -0600, Ignoramus5639
wrote:

The best vibration solution for my compressor was to follow Gunner's
suggestion and use some used plush carpeting.

i
My compressor tank is a used 100 lb (or possibly larger?) propane
tank. The bottom "rink" is a snug fit inside a 15" compact spare tire
rim. So, I plunked the tank into the rim and spotted a few welds to
hold it tthere. The rubber tire is the isolation mount and widens the
base enugh to make it very stable.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Hey Ivan,

Want pictures?

Brian Lawson.

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
On Sun, 02 Dec 2007 17:18:03 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:


"Brian Lawson" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 02 Dec 2007 06:29:59 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"

First off, my compressor shipped years ago with the tank legs bolted
to a wooden "frame". I never took that wood off, and always felt that
it helped reduce the noise when operating on the concrete floor. So
that would theoretically allow more space under than you have. More
recently I located the compressor such that it blocks the electrics
and motor of one of my lathes. Not good, so I stuck four casters on
the "corners" of the wood to make it possible to move the compressor
around. It's actually pretty easy to move, yet it surprisingly
doesn't "walk around" when running. OOMV on that!

Didn't the very bottom of the tank on yours already have an outlet
with a 90 degree fitting and a length of 1/4" or 3/8" pipe to a
manual valve projecting outboard of the tank?

No 90° fitting on this baby! But, until I read your kind reply I had never
considered that the whole assembly could be brought to the edge where there
is not only more room but is accessible. I never quite believed that people
complied with the "Drain Compressor Daily or after each use" caution that is
posted on the compressor. On mine you would have to lie flat on your back
to reach under and loosen the petcock. Wasn't about to do that "daily".

Thanks Brian
Ivan Vegvary

No 90� fitting on this baby! But, until I read your kind reply I had never
considered that the whole assembly could be brought to the edge where there
is not only more room but is accessible. I never quite believed that people
complied with the "Drain Compressor Daily or after each use" caution that is
posted on the compressor. On mine you would have to lie flat on your back
to reach under and loosen the petcock. Wasn't about to do that "daily".

Ivan: When you move the valve, move it high enough that you can reach
it without having to bend
over. We remote ours to right by the power switch and run some Tygon
tubing into the sink drain nearby.
That way when it gets shut off, it takes just a second extra to drain
the tank.
Just remember to secure the drain end so that it doesn't whip when you
open the valve. With it like that
you are more likely to get in the habit of draining it pretty often.

Craig C.

wrote in message
...

Ivan: When you move the valve, move it high enough that you can reach
it without having to bend over.

Okay Craig, what do you mean by "high enough"? Does the valve not have to
be at low point to drain the tank? If I have the valve, say, 2 feet high
would I not end up with 2 feet of water in the tank? I'm not seeing the
picture, please explain.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

"Brian Lawson" wrote in message
...
Hey Ivan,

Want pictures?

Brian Lawson.

Brian,
Sure, I would love to have pictures!!!!

Ivan Vegvary

In article DeL4j.3842$Uy.659@trndny07,
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote:
Okay Craig, what do you mean by "high enough"? Does the valve not have to
be at low point to drain the tank? If I have the valve, say, 2 feet high
would I not end up with 2 feet of water in the tank? I'm not seeing the
picture, please explain.

If the valve is connected at one end to an open drain, and at the other
end to the low point in the tank, by a pipe of any reasonable (smaller
is better, here) size, the air in the tank will push the water out of
the low part of the tank and out of the pipe. When air vents you're
done. That's a slight mis-statement, but pretty close to true. Wait a
few seconds with the valve closed for what's left to puddle, and let it
go again. If it helps you to think of a soda siphon bottle, do that. if
you don't know what one of those is, it won't help you to think about
one (youngster.)

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On 2007-12-03, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

wrote in message
...

Ivan: When you move the valve, move it high enough that you can reach
it without having to bend over.

Okay Craig, what do you mean by "high enough"? Does the valve not have to
be at low point to drain the tank? If I have the valve, say, 2 feet high
would I not end up with 2 feet of water in the tank? I'm not seeing the
picture, please explain.

On the quincy that I had briefly, there was a very interesting drain
contraption (which I am not sure if it will work well if it ever
freezes).

There was a flare adaptor and a soft copper line going from the tank
bottom up, up up and to the wall. It went pretty high, and went down
into a 2" pipe maybe 2x48 size. The pipe was capped, and a small
nipple welded into the bottom cap, with the valve attached.

Under the valve, there was an extra bit of hose leading into a bucket,
which collected the water and crud.

If you opened the valve, the stuff would drain, slowly and nicely.

i

On Sun, 02 Dec 2007 06:29:59 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:

Spent better part of 4 hours installing an automatic drain on my 60 gallon
vertical tank air compressor. It's a Quincy 6.5 hp dual stage.

Time spent was looking for fittings, going to the store, wrong fittings,
wrong threads, scrounge through my collection of brass again, learn to swage
copper tubing and PRESTO I finally had it all together. I had used my car
hoist to raise the compressor off the ground for ease of work. When I
lowered it back down I noticed that it 'rocks' on its mounts (4 legs).
Well, the drain valve assembly is slightly taller than space between the
tank bottom and the ground. About a half of an inch.

Anybody have any bright ideas about how to easily get this compressor to sit
higher off the ground? I'm thinking maybe bolt it to a 3/4" plywood base
and simply cut a, say, 4" diameter circle in the middle of the plywood. Any
better ideas that are quick and easy?

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary


Yes. Stick a couple 4x4s under it. Makes it quieter too.

Gunner

Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Okay Craig, what do you mean by "high enough"? Does the valve not have to
be at low point to drain the tank? If I have the valve, say, 2 feet high
would I not end up with 2 feet of water in the tank? I'm not seeing the
picture, please explain.


Hey Ivan: As long as one side of the valve is connected by tubing or
piping to the bottom of the tank,
tank, it is going to drain when you open the valve. It really doesn't
matter too much as to what the physical
distance is through the piping from the tank to the valve, as long as
you are not adding hundreds
of feet.....The one side of the valve is always going to see tank
pressure wether there is 1' of
tubing between the valve and tank or 100'. We just mounted the valve
within a short distance from
the wall switch for the compressor so that it was very handy to open
when you were shutting down the
compressor. No bending over or reaching under the tank to get to the
valve.

Hope that this and other replies have helped clarify for you.

Craig C.

On Mon, 03 Dec 2007 04:04:34 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:


"Brian Lawson" wrote in message
.. .
Hey Ivan,

Want pictures?

Brian Lawson.

Brian,
Sure, I would love to have pictures!!!!

Ivan Vegvary



SENT offlist

"Brian Lawson" wrote in message
...
Hey Ivan,

Want pictures?

Brian Lawson.

Brian,
Thanks for the pictures. Have to thank you here because my computer
(Microsoft Outlook) will not allow me to send you an email reply.


Message from my server:
"the message could not be sent because one of the recipients was rejected by
the server. Server Response: '550 No such user here'.
Error Number 0x800ccc79"


Ivan Vegvary