Mentioned in the "update on wire brushing" post, I have a 1/2 HP,
110v, Peerless motor that looks maybe 50 years old. It works fine. It
has special ports for lubrication, with little doors that open upwards
and where you just drip some lubricant. They are not grease gun
fittings, they just open up and you can add oil.

My question is, what oil and how much.

i

On 2007-11-16, Randal O'Brian wrote:

"Ignoramus11967" wrote in message
news
Mentioned in the "update on wire brushing" post, I have a 1/2 HP,
110v, Peerless motor that looks maybe 50 years old. It works fine. It
has special ports for lubrication, with little doors that open upwards
and where you just drip some lubricant. They are not grease gun
fittings, they just open up and you can add oil.

My question is, what oil and how much.

i

Go to the hardware and get a can of 3in1 electric motor oil. It will have a
pic of an electric motor on the label. Put about 5 drops in each port for
starts and repeat once a year.

Randal


Randal, thanks, I will buy just that.

i

On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 11:57:03 -0600, Ignoramus11967
wrote:

Mentioned in the "update on wire brushing" post, I have a 1/2 HP,
110v, Peerless motor that looks maybe 50 years old. It works fine. It
has special ports for lubrication, with little doors that open upwards
and where you just drip some lubricant. They are not grease gun
fittings, they just open up and you can add oil.

My question is, what oil and how much.

I would use 20 weight non-detergent. 3-in-1 used to sell
this in a blue can, called, drum roll "Motor Oil" ;-)

About 3-5 drops every 6 months or so depending on use.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

Ignoramus11967 wrote:

My question is, what oil and how much.

WD 40 and more than what fits into the oiler.

And don't forget:
When you want to fart, call your doctor and ask how to do it.


Nick
--
The lowcost-DRO:
http://www.yadro.de

Nick Mueller wrote:
Ignoramus11967 wrote:

My question is, what oil and how much.

WD 40 and more than what fits into the oiler.

And don't forget:
When you want to fart, call your doctor and ask how to do it.


Nick

Nick is correct, for that specific motor, wd-40 is the best choice.

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
...
Nick Mueller wrote:
Ignoramus11967 wrote:

My question is, what oil and how much.

WD 40 and more than what fits into the oiler.

And don't forget:
When you want to fart, call your doctor and ask how to do it.


Nick

Nick is correct, for that specific motor, wd-40 is the best choice.

Are we serious here? WD-40 is a water-displacing rust protectant and
cleaning solvent. It is the LAST thing you want to put into a motor bearing.

20-weight non-detergent, as others have said, is the right stuff.

Nick was being facetious.

--
Ed Huntress

On 2007-11-16, Ed Huntress wrote:
Are we serious here? WD-40 is a water-displacing rust protectant and
cleaning solvent. It is the LAST thing you want to put into a motor bearing.

20-weight non-detergent, as others have said, is the right stuff.

That would be the same as compressor oil, right?

i

"Ignoramus11967" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-16, Ed Huntress wrote:
Are we serious here? WD-40 is a water-displacing rust protectant and
cleaning solvent. It is the LAST thing you want to put into a motor
bearing.

20-weight non-detergent, as others have said, is the right stuff.

That would be the same as compressor oil, right?

I don't know. Look on the can of compressor oil and see. g

Because you use so little of it in a lifetime, it's worth getting some
20-weight machine oil for your motors, and it will come in handy for other
machinery lubricating jobs in a home shop. I'd tell you that the detergent
business doesn't matter in the case of total-loss bearings, like motor
bearings with oil caps but no cups or reservoir, but that would start an
argument here and you might forget sometime and put it in an old machine
with a reservoir, only to get crap into the wicks and choke off oil to
*those* bearings. d8-)

So spring for some of the right stuff. It's worth a couple of bucks.

--
Ed Huntress

On 2007-11-16, Ed Huntress wrote:

"Ignoramus11967" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-16, Ed Huntress wrote:
Are we serious here? WD-40 is a water-displacing rust protectant and
cleaning solvent. It is the LAST thing you want to put into a motor
bearing.

20-weight non-detergent, as others have said, is the right stuff.

That would be the same as compressor oil, right?

I don't know. Look on the can of compressor oil and see. g

Because you use so little of it in a lifetime, it's worth getting some
20-weight machine oil for your motors, and it will come in handy for other
machinery lubricating jobs in a home shop. I'd tell you that the detergent
business doesn't matter in the case of total-loss bearings, like motor
bearings with oil caps but no cups or reservoir, but that would start an
argument here and you might forget sometime and put it in an old machine
with a reservoir, only to get crap into the wicks and choke off oil to
*those* bearings. d8-)

So spring for some of the right stuff. It's worth a couple of bucks.




OK, I just bought one for motors specifically (3-in-1). Thanks.

i;

In article ,
Ignoramus11967 wrote:

On 2007-11-16, Randal O'Brian wrote:

"Ignoramus11967" wrote in message
news
Mentioned in the "update on wire brushing" post, I have a 1/2 HP,
110v, Peerless motor that looks maybe 50 years old. It works fine. It
has special ports for lubrication, with little doors that open upwards
and where you just drip some lubricant. They are not grease gun
fittings, they just open up and you can add oil.

My question is, what oil and how much.

i

Go to the hardware and get a can of 3in1 electric motor oil. It will have
a
pic of an electric motor on the label. Put about 5 drops in each port for
starts and repeat once a year.

Randal


Randal, thanks, I will buy just that.

If it's really 50 years old, I'd consider cleaning the old oil and gunk
out with kerosene first. WD-40 would work for that. But you do need
real motor oil.

Joe Gwinn

Ed Huntress wrote:

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
...
Nick Mueller wrote:
Ignoramus11967 wrote:

My question is, what oil and how much.

WD 40 and more than what fits into the oiler.

And don't forget:
When you want to fart, call your doctor and ask how to do it.


Nick

Nick is correct, for that specific motor, wd-40 is the best choice.

Are we serious here? WD-40 is a water-displacing rust protectant and
cleaning solvent. It is the LAST thing you want to put into a motor bearing.

completely serious. wd-40 is what he should use in all his motors. You
don't want water in in the bearing areas, now do you?

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
...
Ed Huntress wrote:

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
...
Nick Mueller wrote:
Ignoramus11967 wrote:

My question is, what oil and how much.

WD 40 and more than what fits into the oiler.

And don't forget:
When you want to fart, call your doctor and ask how to do it.


Nick

Nick is correct, for that specific motor, wd-40 is the best choice.

Are we serious here? WD-40 is a water-displacing rust protectant and
cleaning solvent. It is the LAST thing you want to put into a motor
bearing.

completely serious. wd-40 is what he should use in all his motors. You
don't want water in in the bearing areas, now do you?

I'm going to assume you're pulling our legs. However, the fact is that while
some of the ingredients of WD40 are secret, the ones that are known are
Stoddard solvent and mineral oil: paint thinner and baby oil, in other
words. Mineral oil has almost no lubricating properties that you'd consider
for use in a machine. All in all, it's a good product to kill a machine for
which you're looking for an excuse to trash.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote:

... the ones that are known are
Stoddard solvent and mineral oil: paint thinner and baby oil

Baby oil? That's exactly what Iggiot needs.


Nick
--
The lowcost-DRO:
http://www.yadro.de

On 2007-11-16, Ed Huntress wrote:
I'm going to assume you're pulling our legs. However, the fact is that while
some of the ingredients of WD40 are secret, the ones that are known are
Stoddard solvent and mineral oil: paint thinner and baby oil, in other
words. Mineral oil has almost no lubricating properties that you'd consider
for use in a machine. All in all, it's a good product to kill a machine for
which you're looking for an excuse to trash.

If I wanted to ruin a motor, I would take a 3450 RPM 3 phase motor and
run it at 400 Hz from a VFD. Would be more fun that putting WD40 in
bearings.

i

"Ignoramus11967" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-16, Ed Huntress wrote:
I'm going to assume you're pulling our legs. However, the fact is that
while
some of the ingredients of WD40 are secret, the ones that are known are
Stoddard solvent and mineral oil: paint thinner and baby oil, in other
words. Mineral oil has almost no lubricating properties that you'd
consider
for use in a machine. All in all, it's a good product to kill a machine
for
which you're looking for an excuse to trash.

If I wanted to ruin a motor, I would take a 3450 RPM 3 phase motor and
run it at 400 Hz from a VFD. Would be more fun that putting WD40 in
bearings.

i

It might be harder to cover up when you took it back to the store. d8-)

Lamp oil is good. That will kill a bearing pretty quick, like the time a
high school friend of mine decided to clean out the crap in the sump of a
Chevy V8 that he bought by running kerosene in the crankcase for a couple of
days. It made quite a smell when it fried.

--
Ed Huntress

On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 20:54:44 +0100, Nick Mueller
wrote:

Ignoramus11967 wrote:

My question is, what oil and how much.

WD 40 and more than what fits into the oiler.

And don't forget:
When you want to fart, call your doctor and ask how to do it.


Nick
NOT.
WD40 is NOT a lubricant. The instructions on several old motors I've
had kicking around specify #20 and #30 oil. The 3in1 "motor" oil in
the blue container is for motors over 1/4 HP. and is SAE #20. They
also make an oil for small electric motors. Do NOT use this on larger
motors.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 14:34:26 -0600, Ignoramus11967
wrote:

On 2007-11-16, Ed Huntress wrote:
Are we serious here? WD-40 is a water-displacing rust protectant and
cleaning solvent. It is the LAST thing you want to put into a motor bearing.

20-weight non-detergent, as others have said, is the right stuff.

That would be the same as compressor oil, right?

i
Not the same, but compressor oil would work. Definitely better than
WD40.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 20:54:44 +0100, Nick Mueller
wrote:

Ignoramus11967 wrote:

My question is, what oil and how much.

WD 40 and more than what fits into the oiler.

And don't forget:
When you want to fart, call your doctor and ask how to do it.


Nick


Well, if you recommend WD-40 as a lubricant you probably need to call
your doctor as WD-40 is basically kerosine which is not exactly the
correct lubricant for an electric motor.


Bruce-in-Bangkok
(Note:remove underscores
from address for reply)

Ignoramus11967 wrote:
Mentioned in the "update on wire brushing" post, I have a 1/2 HP,
110v, Peerless motor that looks maybe 50 years old. It works fine. It
has special ports for lubrication, with little doors that open upwards
and where you just drip some lubricant. They are not grease gun
fittings, they just open up and you can add oil.

My question is, what oil and how much.

i
If it is a babbit bearing motor with slinger rings, you use
something like 20W or 30W oil. Probably the same with oil wick
design, although those may need to have the gummed-up oil
dissolved so the wicks can oil the bearings. You may just have
to replace the wicks with cotton shoelaces.

Jon

In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"Ignoramus11967" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-16, Ed Huntress wrote:
I'm going to assume you're pulling our legs. However, the fact is that
while
some of the ingredients of WD40 are secret, the ones that are known are
Stoddard solvent and mineral oil: paint thinner and baby oil, in other
words. Mineral oil has almost no lubricating properties that you'd
consider
for use in a machine. All in all, it's a good product to kill a machine
for
which you're looking for an excuse to trash.

If I wanted to ruin a motor, I would take a 3450 RPM 3 phase motor and
run it at 400 Hz from a VFD. Would be more fun that putting WD40 in
bearings.

i

It might be harder to cover up when you took it back to the store. d8-)

Lamp oil is good. That will kill a bearing pretty quick, like the time a
high school friend of mine decided to clean out the crap in the sump of a
Chevy V8 that he bought by running kerosene in the crankcase for a couple of
days. It made quite a smell when it fried.

Kerosene in the oil to clean an engine is an old trick, but one did it
for a few hours at most, and not under load. Maybe this is how WD-40
was really invented, never mind the legend on the website.

Joe Gwinn

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"Ignoramus11967" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-16, Ed Huntress wrote:
I'm going to assume you're pulling our legs. However, the fact is that
while
some of the ingredients of WD40 are secret, the ones that are known
are
Stoddard solvent and mineral oil: paint thinner and baby oil, in other
words. Mineral oil has almost no lubricating properties that you'd
consider
for use in a machine. All in all, it's a good product to kill a
machine
for
which you're looking for an excuse to trash.

If I wanted to ruin a motor, I would take a 3450 RPM 3 phase motor and
run it at 400 Hz from a VFD. Would be more fun that putting WD40 in
bearings.

i

It might be harder to cover up when you took it back to the store. d8-)

Lamp oil is good. That will kill a bearing pretty quick, like the time a
high school friend of mine decided to clean out the crap in the sump of a
Chevy V8 that he bought by running kerosene in the crankcase for a couple
of
days. It made quite a smell when it fried.

Kerosene in the oil to clean an engine is an old trick, but one did it
for a few hours at most, and not under load. Maybe this is how WD-40
was really invented, never mind the legend on the website.

The one guy I've ever talked to who did this much, a mechanic who
specialized in converting car engines for marine use, told me that 1), it
usually doesn't do any good; and 2) it often fries your engine. He did a lot
of old Stars and Fords from the early '30s and Packards from the '50s, which
were once popular conversions. It was a last-ditch, desperate measure if you
were doing a cheap conversion, he said.

I don't know what WD40 says, beyond what's in their MSDS. And that doesn't
tell you much.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed, it's always humorous to see the many distorted interpretations of a
useful tip.

I've heard that a flush with kero can help remove the remaining dirty oil
during an oil change, and seems entirely sensible. After the dirty oil is
drained, a quart-or-so of kero is poured in and runs out the drain hole.

How this would get to the point of running an engine, and driving the car
for several days is beyond comprehension.

I could possibly see how some folks might add a quart of kero, after
removing a quart of dirty oil, and operate the vehicle for a short time, in
an attempt to try to remove built-up deposits or gummy residues before an
oil change.

The most reasonable one I've heard was to add a quart of Rislone after
removing a quart of dirty oil, and operate the vehicle for maybe (as much
as) a couple of hundred miles, for additional internal cleaning, prior to an
oil change.

I don't do any of the above anymore.. what ever comes out when the plug is
removed is replaced with fresh oil, plus enough for the new filter.

WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...


Lamp oil is good. That will kill a bearing pretty quick, like the time a
high school friend of mine decided to clean out the crap in the sump of a
Chevy V8 that he bought by running kerosene in the crankcase for a couple
of days. It made quite a smell when it fried.

--
Ed Huntress

"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
Ed, it's always humorous to see the many distorted interpretations of a
useful tip.

Oh, yeah. A lot of them fly around here. Fortunately there also are a lot of
knowledgeable people here who usually catch them before they breed.


I've heard that a flush with kero can help remove the remaining dirty oil
during an oil change, and seems entirely sensible. After the dirty oil is
drained, a quart-or-so of kero is poured in and runs out the drain hole.

I think you really have to stir up any of that oil-and-water glop in a
poorly cared-for engine. Whether just running kero through it would do
anything is problematic.


How this would get to the point of running an engine, and driving the car
for several days is beyond comprehension.

Well, they used to do it, 'way back, and even into the '50s. But my
impression is that it's mostly an old-wive's tale that has ruined a lot of
engines.


I could possibly see how some folks might add a quart of kero, after
removing a quart of dirty oil, and operate the vehicle for a short time,
in an attempt to try to remove built-up deposits or gummy residues before
an oil change.

The most reasonable one I've heard was to add a quart of Rislone after
removing a quart of dirty oil, and operate the vehicle for maybe (as much
as) a couple of hundred miles, for additional internal cleaning, prior to
an oil change.

I don't do any of the above anymore.. what ever comes out when the plug is
removed is replaced with fresh oil, plus enough for the new filter.

The detergents in modern oil are so good that, if they won't do it, you're
ready for one of those internal pressure/pumping treatments at Jiffy Lube,
or even an engine tear-down and cleaning.

Modern engines won't tolerate that kind of playing around, in any case. It
was different when castings were thick and soft, and pistons were C.I.
rather than aluminum. My dad used to tell me how *his* dad would de-carbon
the head on the ol' Model A -- using an O/A torch with the head still on.
g

--
Ed Huntress

In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"Ignoramus11967" wrote in message
...
On 2007-11-16, Ed Huntress wrote:
I'm going to assume you're pulling our legs. However, the fact is that
while some of the ingredients of WD40 are secret, the ones that are known
are Stoddard solvent and mineral oil: paint thinner and baby oil, in other
words. Mineral oil has almost no lubricating properties that you'd
consider for use in a machine. All in all, it's a good product to kill a
machine for which you're looking for an excuse to trash.

If I wanted to ruin a motor, I would take a 3450 RPM 3 phase motor and
run it at 400 Hz from a VFD. Would be more fun that putting WD40 in
bearings.

i

It might be harder to cover up when you took it back to the store. d8-)

Lamp oil is good. That will kill a bearing pretty quick, like the time a
high school friend of mine decided to clean out the crap in the sump of a
Chevy V8 that he bought by running kerosene in the crankcase for a couple
of days. It made quite a smell when it fried.

Kerosene in the oil to clean an engine is an old trick, but one did it
for a few hours at most, and not under load. Maybe this is how WD-40
was really invented, never mind the legend on the website.

The one guy I've ever talked to who did this much, a mechanic who
specialized in converting car engines for marine use, told me that 1), it
usually doesn't do any good; and 2) it often fries your engine. He did a lot
of old Stars and Fords from the early '30s and Packards from the '50s, which
were once popular conversions. It was a last-ditch, desperate measure if you
were doing a cheap conversion, he said.

I believe it. I heard the trick from a coworker who was also an
experienced shady-tree mechanic from rural PA. It may depend on the
engine kind. He didn't report a high failure rate, but he would be one
to know just how far he could push it.

When the metal becomes too clean, it will weld nicely.

Hmm. If it didn't usually do any good, why did the mechanic even bother?


I don't know what WD40 says, beyond what's in their MSDS. And that doesn't
tell you much.

It's a saga on their website (?) that says that what became WD-40 was
the 40th formula they tried. One wonders what took so long.

Joe Gwinn

the kerosene thing is mentioned in the service manual for my 1938 plymouth -
as I recall, add, idle, drain, and refil with regular oil - no longer
practiced, we have detergents in oil.


"Wild_Bill" wrote in message
...
Ed, it's always humorous to see the many distorted interpretations of a
useful tip.

I've heard that a flush with kero can help remove the remaining dirty oil
during an oil change, and seems entirely sensible. After the dirty oil is
drained, a quart-or-so of kero is poured in and runs out the drain hole.

How this would get to the point of running an engine, and driving the car
for several days is beyond comprehension.

I could possibly see how some folks might add a quart of kero, after
removing a quart of dirty oil, and operate the vehicle for a short time,
in an attempt to try to remove built-up deposits or gummy residues before
an oil change.

The most reasonable one I've heard was to add a quart of Rislone after
removing a quart of dirty oil, and operate the vehicle for maybe (as much
as) a couple of hundred miles, for additional internal cleaning, prior to
an oil change.

I don't do any of the above anymore.. what ever comes out when the plug is
removed is replaced with fresh oil, plus enough for the new filter.

WB
.........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...


Lamp oil is good. That will kill a bearing pretty quick, like the time a
high school friend of mine decided to clean out the crap in the sump of a
Chevy V8 that he bought by running kerosene in the crankcase for a couple
of days. It made quite a smell when it fried.

--
Ed Huntress





--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"Ignoramus11967" wrote in
message
...
On 2007-11-16, Ed Huntress wrote:
I'm going to assume you're pulling our legs. However, the fact is
that
while some of the ingredients of WD40 are secret, the ones that are
known
are Stoddard solvent and mineral oil: paint thinner and baby oil,
in other
words. Mineral oil has almost no lubricating properties that you'd
consider for use in a machine. All in all, it's a good product to
kill a
machine for which you're looking for an excuse to trash.

If I wanted to ruin a motor, I would take a 3450 RPM 3 phase motor
and
run it at 400 Hz from a VFD. Would be more fun that putting WD40 in
bearings.

i

It might be harder to cover up when you took it back to the store.
d8-)

Lamp oil is good. That will kill a bearing pretty quick, like the time
a
high school friend of mine decided to clean out the crap in the sump
of a
Chevy V8 that he bought by running kerosene in the crankcase for a
couple
of days. It made quite a smell when it fried.

Kerosene in the oil to clean an engine is an old trick, but one did it
for a few hours at most, and not under load. Maybe this is how WD-40
was really invented, never mind the legend on the website.

The one guy I've ever talked to who did this much, a mechanic who
specialized in converting car engines for marine use, told me that 1), it
usually doesn't do any good; and 2) it often fries your engine. He did a
lot
of old Stars and Fords from the early '30s and Packards from the '50s,
which
were once popular conversions. It was a last-ditch, desperate measure if
you
were doing a cheap conversion, he said.

I believe it. I heard the trick from a coworker who was also an
experienced shady-tree mechanic from rural PA. It may depend on the
engine kind. He didn't report a high failure rate, but he would be one
to know just how far he could push it.

When the metal becomes too clean, it will weld nicely.

Hmm. If it didn't usually do any good, why did the mechanic even bother?

Good question. People would bring in old engines and ask him to convert
them. Those were probably the ones that were hopeless but he'd tell them he
could "cure it or kill it" if they wanted to take a chance.

Doing those conversions was pretty good business back in the '50s.

I don't know what WD40 says, beyond what's in their MSDS. And that
doesn't
tell you much.

It's a saga on their website (?) that says that what became WD-40 was
the 40th formula they tried. One wonders what took so long.

Oh, that one. I thought they'd dressed it up recently or something.

That reminds me of a personna I once adopted as a joke, in which I claimed
to have been the inventor of WD39, but then I gave up. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 17 Nov 2007 12:54:23 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Wild_Bill" quickly quoth:

Ed, it's always humorous to see the many distorted interpretations of a
useful tip.

I've heard that a flush with kero can help remove the remaining dirty oil
during an oil change, and seems entirely sensible. After the dirty oil is
drained, a quart-or-so of kero is poured in and runs out the drain hole.

How this would get to the point of running an engine, and driving the car
for several days is beyond comprehension.

I could possibly see how some folks might add a quart of kero, after
removing a quart of dirty oil, and operate the vehicle for a short time, in
an attempt to try to remove built-up deposits or gummy residues before an
oil change.

The most reasonable one I've heard was to add a quart of Rislone after
removing a quart of dirty oil, and operate the vehicle for maybe (as much
as) a couple of hundred miles, for additional internal cleaning, prior to an
oil change.

I don't do any of the above anymore.. what ever comes out when the plug is
removed is replaced with fresh oil, plus enough for the new filter.

Having seen several pounds of sludge come off the interior of an old
engine and completely plug/foul the oil filter (which opened the pump
bypass, putting crud in the bearings) I recommend against any of the
above. I don't think the guy ever changed oil, just added when it was
low. Anyway, bearings do NOT like the crunchy gunk and get loud when
it's run past their surfaces. When we pulled the rocker covers, there
was a quarter inch of caked crap still on them, and the oil pan was
half full of solids which melted off the block. 35 years later, I
still wonder how that engine ever ran.

Use a good detergent oil (my fave is Castrol GTX) and leave whatever
crud is on the walls of the engine where they are. If you want to
remove crud, overhaul the engine.

WD-40 is not a lubricant, nor is straight STP. Use oil instead.

--
After all, it is those who have a deep and real inner life who
are best able to deal with the irritating details of outer life.
-- Evelyn Underhill

"William Noble" wrote in message
.. .
the kerosene thing is mentioned in the service manual for my 1938
plymouth - as I recall, add, idle, drain, and refil with regular oil - no
longer practiced, we have detergents in oil.

I can imagine it would work on really old engines if you did it regularly
and just ran the engine lightly. My guess is that the problems crop up when
you use it to try to salvage an engine that's already full of crud, and you
run it too hard or long.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 17 Nov 2007 21:16:13 -0500, "Ed Huntress"
wrote:


"William Noble" wrote in message
. ..
the kerosene thing is mentioned in the service manual for my 1938
plymouth - as I recall, add, idle, drain, and refil with regular oil - no
longer practiced, we have detergents in oil.

I can imagine it would work on really old engines if you did it regularly
and just ran the engine lightly. My guess is that the problems crop up when
you use it to try to salvage an engine that's already full of crud, and you
run it too hard or long.


You are correct Ed.
On older engines it was actually "recommended" and "common practice"
to add a quart of Kero, stove oil, or diesel fuel to the crankcase and
run it for 20 minutes or so before draining the oil.
The oil was non-detergent, and in most cases the engine had no oil
filter. The oil was changed at 1000 mile intervals, and very often it
was not necessary to drain a quart before addin the kero as the oil
level was already down a quart.

Done regularly there was no deposit build-up to warry about.

In later years, another common "fix" which was less agressive was to
put Shaler Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) or Dexron transmission
fluid in the oil of a neglected engine. The dirtier the engine was,
the less you put in and the oftener you changed the oil. A pint per
change, changed every 250 miles, wouild safely clean up a pretty badly
gummed up engine within 1000 miles or so.

The only engine I ever blew this way was a 1965 225 valiant with about
100,000 miles on what was likely about 2 oil changes. The crud was
hard as diamond and we chipped away as much as we could from the
rocker area. Most likely some of that crud dropped into the pan and
likely did more to contribute to the plugging of the inlet screen 20
miles later than the addition of a quart of furnace oil to the
crankcase did.
The engine was likely beyond salvage either way, even before we opened
it up to attempt to adjust the valve clearances.



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"Stormin Mormon" fired this volley in
:

Typically two or one drops of oil every couple months. More often, if
you use the motor a lot.

Stormy, I have a very old Craftsman 1/2-horse motor on my Cincy#2 mill.
The motor weighs about 120lb. It's badged with "two drops of 10W oil per
bearing, twice a year. Do not over-lubricate."

LLoyd

On Nov 20, 1:32 pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" fired this volley :

Typically two or one drops of oil every couple months. More often, if
you use the motor a lot.

Stormy, I have a very old Craftsman 1/2-horse motor on my Cincy#2 mill.
The motor weighs about 120lb. It's badged with "two drops of 10W oil per
bearing, twice a year. Do not over-lubricate."

LLoyd


Even that might be too much. I remember a GE ball bearing motor that
GE recommended greasing every ten years if used 8 hours a day.

Dan