OK, I need to re-roof my home. North Texas, DFW area.

1500 sq ft, simple roof two planes, no dormers etc.
There is an add-on that is basically a raised square, roof of that is a
single plane.
There are 5 skylights, 2-ft and 5-ft approx.
Single layer of asphalt shingles, metal to be applied over that, no removal.
Pitch is 4/12, very shallow.

So I went to Mueller and got a price on materials. $4000 for R-panel.
Installation? "Should be around $2000"
By comparison, last I checked on asphalt was about $2900 total.

So now I'm ready to place the order., and the Mueller people say "$2000
is really low!"

I talk to another roofer. He says "$12,000"

At this point the whole thing is looking like a racket to me.
This is a simple job - simple enough that we're considering doing it
ourselves.

So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:47:37 -0500, Rex
wrote:

So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?
A good start was to post to rec.crafts.metalworking.

Much will depend on exactly what you are looking for in the way
of a roof.

for information click on
http://www.classicmetalroofingsystems.com/
http://explaned.com/view/308?tracker...=&t racku=yes
http://www.oldhousejournal.com/magaz...shingles.shtml
http://metal-roofing-guide.net/
http://www.tamko.com/OurKeyBrands/ME...0/Default.aspx
http://www.westmansteel.ca/residenti...-shingles.html
{canada}



google on
"steel shingles"
and
sale OR discount OR surplus "metal shingles"
and
sale OR discount OR surplus "metal roofs"
for more than you wanted to know.

Unka' George [George McDuffee]
============
Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.

F. George McDuffee wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:47:37 -0500, Rex
wrote:

So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?
A good start was to post to rec.crafts.metalworking.

Much will depend on exactly what you are looking for in the way
of a roof.

R-panels or standing seam.
Doesn't make me much difference, as long as it's watertight.

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:47:37 -0500, Rex wrote:

At this point the whole thing is looking like a racket to me.
This is a simple job - simple enough that we're considering doing it
ourselves.

So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?

Doing a metal roof is a 90-10 project. The 90% of the area covered by
big flat sheets is 10% of the work. Measure carefully, order them cut
to length, screw them down. Only a couple of rules - align the first
sheet _very_ carefully, and don't torque the screws down so hard you
spread the sheets and blow your careful measurements.

At least 90% of your work will be your skylights, the peak and edge
trims, and the resilient sealers around all the free edges. You'll
probably want custom soldered flashings around the skylights, or at
least very carefully sealant-assembled ones. Don't forget the vent
stacks - if one happens to intersect a seam between roofing sheets, it
can be a real pain to seal effectively. Metal moves around with
temperature changes enough that you can't just squirt a bead of
sealant around interruptions.

Done properly, a metal roof is trouble free for a very long time. But
if it is done to the standards of a barn to cut costs, you'll regret
it.

Loren

On Oct 29, 10:47 am, Rex wrote:
OK, I need to re-roof my home. North Texas, DFW area.

1500 sq ft, simple roof two planes, no dormers etc.
There is an add-on that is basically a raised square, roof of that is a
single plane.
There are 5 skylights, 2-ft and 5-ft approx.
Single layer of asphalt shingles, metal to be applied over that, no removal.
Pitch is 4/12, very shallow.

So I went to Mueller and got a price on materials. $4000 for R-panel.
Installation? "Should be around $2000"
By comparison, last I checked on asphalt was about $2900 total.

So now I'm ready to place the order., and the Mueller people say "$2000
is really low!"

I talk to another roofer. He says "$12,000"

At this point the whole thing is looking like a racket to me.
This is a simple job - simple enough that we're considering doing it
ourselves.

So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?

Be aware that a metal roof will "weep" water from condensation and
will eventually cause rot it not properly vented. Be sure and allow
venting at the top and a way for air to enter at the bottom.

Paul in Central Oregon

"Rex" wrote in message
...
OK, I need to re-roof my home. North Texas, DFW area.


I live in S. Florida, where we have had several hurricanes lately, so there
are lots of new roofs in my neighborhood. While once there we had no metal
roofs at all, now they are getting to be common. Metal roofs are getting a very
good reputation here for standing up to hurricane force winds with no damage.

After Wilma, I noticed several roofs in my neighborhood that seemed to have
been homeowner installed, so the job must be something less than impossible.
Just be sure to read the manufacturer's installation instructions and follow
them with religious fervor.

Vaughn

wrote:
On Oct 29, 10:47 am, Rex wrote:
OK, I need to re-roof my home. North Texas, DFW area.

1500 sq ft, simple roof two planes, no dormers etc.
There is an add-on that is basically a raised square, roof of that is a
single plane.
There are 5 skylights, 2-ft and 5-ft approx.
Single layer of asphalt shingles, metal to be applied over that, no removal.
Pitch is 4/12, very shallow.

So I went to Mueller and got a price on materials. $4000 for R-panel.
Installation? "Should be around $2000"
By comparison, last I checked on asphalt was about $2900 total.

So now I'm ready to place the order., and the Mueller people say "$2000
is really low!"

I talk to another roofer. He says "$12,000"

At this point the whole thing is looking like a racket to me.
This is a simple job - simple enough that we're considering doing it
ourselves.

So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?

Be aware that a metal roof will "weep" water from condensation and
will eventually cause rot it not properly vented. Be sure and allow
venting at the top and a way for air to enter at the bottom.

Interesting. this is to be laid directly atop a non-leaking asphalt
shingle layer. We intend to change to ridge vent, and cut soffit vents.
I presume the small airspace in the raised portion of the metal would
breed condensation, with the open ends at the bottom allowing drainage.
Or are those open ends typically capped?

Rex,

Mueller will deal and deal good if they think another mfg. is going to get
the order.

Get a very low quote from another supplier, don't mention the price but go
back to Mueller at least five times while they try to shave the price.


"Rex" wrote in message
...
OK, I need to re-roof my home. North Texas, DFW area.

1500 sq ft, simple roof two planes, no dormers etc.
There is an add-on that is basically a raised square, roof of that is a
single plane.
There are 5 skylights, 2-ft and 5-ft approx.
Single layer of asphalt shingles, metal to be applied over that, no
removal.
Pitch is 4/12, very shallow.

So I went to Mueller and got a price on materials. $4000 for R-panel.
Installation? "Should be around $2000"
By comparison, last I checked on asphalt was about $2900 total.

So now I'm ready to place the order., and the Mueller people say "$2000 is
really low!"

I talk to another roofer. He says "$12,000"

At this point the whole thing is looking like a racket to me.
This is a simple job - simple enough that we're considering doing it
ourselves.

So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?

I don't think that applies in Texas. I grew up in South Carolina 25
miles from the coast and the standing seam steel roof is now 80-90
years old with no rot in the framing and no drip marks on the rafters.
All the old houses are roofed that way. Standing seam is expensive to
have installed. The screw down stuff is easy to install but flashing
around skylights and stuff has to be done properly but I wouldn't
think it would be any harder to learn than flashing for any other roof
covering. Since I only patched and painted the roof I can safely say I
can't tell you how to flash it but if they can you can learn how.
Karl


On Oct 29, 10:50 am, wrote:
On Oct 29, 10:47 am, Rex wrote:





OK, I need to re-roof my home. North Texas, DFW area.

1500 sq ft, simple roof two planes, no dormers etc.
There is an add-on that is basically a raised square, roof of that is a
single plane.
There are 5 skylights, 2-ft and 5-ft approx.
Single layer of asphalt shingles, metal to be applied over that, no removal.
Pitch is 4/12, very shallow.

So I went to Mueller and got a price on materials. $4000 for R-panel.
Installation? "Should be around $2000"
By comparison, last I checked on asphalt was about $2900 total.

So now I'm ready to place the order., and the Mueller people say "$2000
is really low!"

I talk to another roofer. He says "$12,000"

At this point the whole thing is looking like a racket to me.
This is a simple job - simple enough that we're considering doing it
ourselves.

So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?

Be aware that a metal roof will "weep" water from condensation and
will eventually cause rot it not properly vented. Be sure and allow
venting at the top and a way for air to enter at the bottom.

Paul in Central Oregon- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

jusme wrote:
Rex,

Mueller will deal and deal good if they think another mfg. is going to get
the order.

Get a very low quote from another supplier, don't mention the price but go
back to Mueller at least five times while they try to shave the price.

That's good to know.
I figured on finding someone who has a commercial account there, but no
luck so far.

Thanks



"Rex" wrote in message
...
OK, I need to re-roof my home. North Texas, DFW area.

1500 sq ft, simple roof two planes, no dormers etc.
There is an add-on that is basically a raised square, roof of that is a
single plane.
There are 5 skylights, 2-ft and 5-ft approx.
Single layer of asphalt shingles, metal to be applied over that, no
removal.
Pitch is 4/12, very shallow.

So I went to Mueller and got a price on materials. $4000 for R-panel.
Installation? "Should be around $2000"
By comparison, last I checked on asphalt was about $2900 total.

So now I'm ready to place the order., and the Mueller people say "$2000 is
really low!"

I talk to another roofer. He says "$12,000"

At this point the whole thing is looking like a racket to me.
This is a simple job - simple enough that we're considering doing it
ourselves.

So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?

Rex wrote in
:


That's good to know.
I figured on finding someone who has a commercial account there, but
no luck so far.


I would highly recommend lathing the roof. With no air moving between the
tin and shingles, moisture will build up and creep behind the shingles. 1"
x lathing should work.


--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:25:27 GMT, Anthony
wrote:

I would highly recommend lathing the roof. With no air moving between the
tin and shingles, moisture will build up and creep behind the shingles. 1"
x lathing should work.

How do you (and the poster from Oregon) propose to have air movement
under the metal roof and above the asphalt shingles without creating
bat heaven there? The guys who installed my (similar to R-Panel) roof
left out the sealers on the part under the solar collectors, and the
bats moved in and multiplied. I like having bats around, but after a
few years the smell was unbearable.

I ended up having to disconnect and remove the solar collectors,
remove a large area of roofing, clean up the mess, and re-assemble
everything. You can believe I sealed and caulked every possible
opening, no matter how tiny. It was amazing to see how small a space a
bat can squeeze through.

Granted, my metal is not installed over a layer of asphalt, or any
other moisture barrier. I wouldn't expect the tab shingles to be a
problem, but there is probably a relatively continuous layer of
roofing paper under them that might be enough of a barrier to cause
condensation. If it was my roof, I'd strip off the asphalt before
applying metal. Solves the moisture issue, lets you seal the metal
tightly against living things, and avoids the smell of roasting
asphalt oozing into your house when the sun shines on the metal.

Loren

Loren Amelang wrote in
:


How do you (and the poster from Oregon) propose to have air movement
under the metal roof and above the asphalt shingles without creating
bat heaven there? The guys who installed my (similar to R-Panel) roof
left out the sealers on the part under the solar collectors, and the
bats moved in and multiplied. I like having bats around, but after a
few years the smell was unbearable.



It requires a ridge vent, and vents below the metal, usually in the soffet.
Some small slots in the sheeting/asphalt near the eaves will provide the
air at the bottom. There would be a lathe at the edge of the eave, so no
bats can get in there.

--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

Anthony wrote:
There would be a lathe at the edge of the eave

metalworking content

Hardware cloth?


"Loren Amelang" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:25:27 GMT, Anthony
wrote:

I would highly recommend lathing the roof. With no air moving between the
tin and shingles, moisture will build up and creep behind the shingles. 1"
x lathing should work.

How do you (and the poster from Oregon) propose to have air movement
under the metal roof and above the asphalt shingles without creating
bat heaven there? The guys who installed my (similar to R-Panel) roof
left out the sealers on the part under the solar collectors, and the
bats moved in and multiplied. I like having bats around, but after a
few years the smell was unbearable.

I ended up having to disconnect and remove the solar collectors,
remove a large area of roofing, clean up the mess, and re-assemble
everything. You can believe I sealed and caulked every possible
opening, no matter how tiny. It was amazing to see how small a space a
bat can squeeze through.

Granted, my metal is not installed over a layer of asphalt, or any
other moisture barrier. I wouldn't expect the tab shingles to be a
problem, but there is probably a relatively continuous layer of
roofing paper under them that might be enough of a barrier to cause
condensation. If it was my roof, I'd strip off the asphalt before
applying metal. Solves the moisture issue, lets you seal the metal
tightly against living things, and avoids the smell of roasting
asphalt oozing into your house when the sun shines on the metal.

Loren

On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:10:29 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Anthony quickly quoth:

Loren Amelang wrote in
:


How do you (and the poster from Oregon) propose to have air movement
under the metal roof and above the asphalt shingles without creating
bat heaven there? The guys who installed my (similar to R-Panel) roof
left out the sealers on the part under the solar collectors, and the
bats moved in and multiplied. I like having bats around, but after a
few years the smell was unbearable.



It requires a ridge vent, and vents below the metal, usually in the soffet.
Some small slots in the sheeting/asphalt near the eaves will provide the
air at the bottom. There would be a lathe at the edge of the eave, so no
bats can get in there.

Tell us more about this turning up at the soffits and eaves, Tony.
Isn't it hard to work up there on your lathe?
Knowledge and timber shouldn't be much used till they are seasoned.
-- Oliver Wendell Holmes

Not far from you is Dublin, call Bradberry Building Supply 254 445
4030 they will be hard to beat. They can cut all the metal and all you
have to do is screw it down.
Another place in Dublin is Prime Building Components 254 445 3416 same
song different verse. Prime is larger with several stores in the area.
I have heard a little higher.

Scott

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:41:25 -0600, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

:So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?
:A good start was to post to rec.crafts.metalworking.

Maybe, but I'd have thought of alt.home.repair first. Or better yet,
cross posted.

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 13:13:38 -0700, Loren Amelang
wrote:

:On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:47:37 -0500, Rex wrote:
:
:At this point the whole thing is looking like a racket to me.
:This is a simple job - simple enough that we're considering doing it
:ourselves.
:
:So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?
:
oing a metal roof is a 90-10 project. The 90% of the area covered by
:big flat sheets is 10% of the work. Measure carefully, order them cut
:to length, screw them down. Only a couple of rules - align the first
:sheet _very_ carefully, and don't torque the screws down so hard you
:spread the sheets and blow your careful measurements.
:
:At least 90% of your work will be your skylights, the peak and edge
:trims, and the resilient sealers around all the free edges. You'll
robably want custom soldered flashings around the skylights, or at
:least very carefully sealant-assembled ones. Don't forget the vent
:stacks - if one happens to intersect a seam between roofing sheets, it
:can be a real pain to seal effectively. Metal moves around with
:temperature changes enough that you can't just squirt a bead of
:sealant around interruptions.
:
one properly, a metal roof is trouble free for a very long time. But
:if it is done to the standards of a barn to cut costs, you'll regret
:it.
:
:Loren

I'm wondering how practical a metal roof would be for my garage, which
is WAY past due for a reroof. it's virtually completely flat, 20 x 30
feet. I think there's a slight rake because there's a gutter along one
30 foot side. Normally, a flat roof would mean hot tar, virtually
impossible DIY and probably only good for 7 years. I figure a metal roof
properly/adequately installed might last a LOT longer, possibly with
occasional upkeep of some kind. Can anyone on this?

Dan

PS Sorry to hijack this thread a bit.

On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 16:57:12 GMT, Dan_Musicant
wrote:

I'm wondering how practical a metal roof would be for my garage, which
is WAY past due for a reroof. it's virtually completely flat, 20 x 30
feet. I think there's a slight rake because there's a gutter along one
30 foot side. Normally, a flat roof would mean hot tar, virtually
impossible DIY and probably only good for 7 years. I figure a metal roof
properly/adequately installed might last a LOT longer, possibly with
occasional upkeep of some kind. Can anyone on this?

I have a perfectly flat R-Panel metal roof over a 10'x10' gazebo/deck
area. It doesn't leak, so long as I ocasionally rake the accumulated
vegetation off of it. Once the leaves and eventual compost get as deep
as the ridges in the metal, water will take the easy path. It probably
won't last as long as a sloped roof due to corrosion under the damp
compost. All depends on your ratio of falling vegetation and spiders
to heavy rain...

Also have a hot tar and fiberglass mat roof that is perfectly good
after 22 years. Where do you get 7? There is also torchdown, which
might be DIY, and various continuous membrane systems that probably
aren't.

Loren

On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 16:57:12 GMT, Dan_Musicant
wrote:

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 13:13:38 -0700, Loren Amelang
wrote:

:On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:47:37 -0500, Rex wrote:
:
:At this point the whole thing is looking like a racket to me.
:This is a simple job - simple enough that we're considering doing it
:ourselves.
:
:So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?
:
oing a metal roof is a 90-10 project. The 90% of the area covered by
:big flat sheets is 10% of the work. Measure carefully, order them cut
:to length, screw them down. Only a couple of rules - align the first
:sheet _very_ carefully, and don't torque the screws down so hard you
:spread the sheets and blow your careful measurements.
:
:At least 90% of your work will be your skylights, the peak and edge
:trims, and the resilient sealers around all the free edges. You'll
robably want custom soldered flashings around the skylights, or at
:least very carefully sealant-assembled ones. Don't forget the vent
:stacks - if one happens to intersect a seam between roofing sheets, it
:can be a real pain to seal effectively. Metal moves around with
:temperature changes enough that you can't just squirt a bead of
:sealant around interruptions.
:
one properly, a metal roof is trouble free for a very long time. But
:if it is done to the standards of a barn to cut costs, you'll regret
:it.
:
:Loren

I'm wondering how practical a metal roof would be for my garage, which
is WAY past due for a reroof. it's virtually completely flat, 20 x 30
feet. I think there's a slight rake because there's a gutter along one
30 foot side. Normally, a flat roof would mean hot tar, virtually
impossible DIY and probably only good for 7 years. I figure a metal roof
properly/adequately installed might last a LOT longer, possibly with
occasional upkeep of some kind. Can anyone on this?

Dan

PS Sorry to hijack this thread a bit.

On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 16:57:12 GMT, Dan_Musicant
wrote:

I'm wondering how practical a metal roof would be for my garage, which
is WAY past due for a reroof. it's virtually completely flat, 20 x 30
feet. I think there's a slight rake because there's a gutter along one
30 foot side. Normally, a flat roof would mean hot tar, virtually
impossible DIY and probably only good for 7 years. I figure a metal roof
properly/adequately installed might last a LOT longer, possibly with
occasional upkeep of some kind. Can anyone on this?

I wouldn't go with metal on a practically dead-flat roof because of
the 'standing water going over the edges of the seams' problem. And
there has to be at least a little slope for drainage - that close to
flat, you'll have low spots that puddle, and rust will start...

Torch-down Modified roll roofing on a properly prepared substrate
(felt and underlayment) would hold up fine - that's our back patio.

Better than tar, because that's too easy to mess up in the
application. And then there's the gravel and rocks that get
everywhere other than on top of the roof...

-- Bruce --

On Nov 1, 6:57 am, Dan_Musicant wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 13:13:38 -0700, Loren Amelang
wrote:

:On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 12:47:37 -0500, Rex wrote:
:
:At this point the whole thing is looking like a racket to me.
:This is a simple job - simple enough that we're considering doing it
:ourselves.
:
:So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?
:
oing a metal roof is a 90-10 project. The 90% of the area covered by
:big flat sheets is 10% of the work. Measure carefully, order them cut
:to length, screw them down. Only a couple of rules - align the first
:sheet _very_ carefully, and don't torque the screws down so hard you
:spread the sheets and blow your careful measurements.
:
:At least 90% of your work will be your skylights, the peak and edge
:trims, and the resilient sealers around all the free edges. You'll
robably want custom soldered flashings around the skylights, or at
:least very carefully sealant-assembled ones. Don't forget the vent
:stacks - if one happens to intersect a seam between roofing sheets, it
:can be a real pain to seal effectively. Metal moves around with
:temperature changes enough that you can't just squirt a bead of
:sealant around interruptions.
:
one properly, a metal roof is trouble free for a very long time. But
:if it is done to the standards of a barn to cut costs, you'll regret
:it.
:
:Loren

I'm wondering how practical a metal roof would be for my garage, which
is WAY past due for a reroof. it's virtually completely flat, 20 x 30
feet. I think there's a slight rake because there's a gutter along one
30 foot side. Normally, a flat roof would mean hot tar, virtually
impossible DIY and probably only good for 7 years. I figure a metal roof
properly/adequately installed might last a LOT longer, possibly with
occasional upkeep of some kind. Can anyone on this?

Dan

PS Sorry to hijack this thread a bit.

My parents boiler room had a slightly sloped steel roof. Never
leaked.
Karl

On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 22:32:59 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 16:57:12 GMT, Dan_Musicant
wrote:

I'm wondering how practical a metal roof would be for my garage, which
is WAY past due for a reroof. it's virtually completely flat, 20 x 30
feet. I think there's a slight rake because there's a gutter along one
30 foot side. Normally, a flat roof would mean hot tar, virtually
impossible DIY and probably only good for 7 years. I figure a metal roof
properly/adequately installed might last a LOT longer, possibly with
occasional upkeep of some kind. Can anyone on this?

I wouldn't go with metal on a practically dead-flat roof because of
the 'standing water going over the edges of the seams' problem. And
there has to be at least a little slope for drainage - that close to
flat, you'll have low spots that puddle, and rust will start...

So he could always frame up some tiny trusses and go with metal,
insulating the open space created after ventilating the roof properly.


Torch-down Modified roll roofing on a properly prepared substrate
(felt and underlayment) would hold up fine - that's our back patio.

Tell me about torching-down MRR, please. Speaking of which, I just
swung by HF yesterday and picked up one of the self-igniting weed
torches. I've heard they're good for hot tar mods, too. I need to redo
my back porch with a downward angle and reroof. The original installer
had it V-shaped (tilting back toward the house to drain into the
gutters) and it leaks into my back wall. sigh I'll probably go with
MRR or maybe shingles. It's only 8x10ish. Then again, once I get it
stripped, I may want to move to metal or just peel more off and go
with fiberglass for the extra light in the dining room. We'll see.


Better than tar, because that's too easy to mess up in the
application. And then there's the gravel and rocks that get
everywhere other than on top of the roof...

I hate finding tiny rocks everywhere. Barefoot, they're painful as
hell. Shoed, they're slippery and dangerous. Mowing, they're little
marbles whizzing off into nearby car/house windows and into people at
light speed. Lovely things, wot?

--
Knowledge and timber shouldn't be much used till they are seasoned.
-- Oliver Wendell Holmes

Rex wrote:

So what do I need to do to get a cost-effective metal roof?

Rex,

http://www.metalsales.us.com/RPanel/index.html#

I'd read the technical information on this companies website. Sure helped
me out.

When I've seen metal laid over existing asphalt shingles, 2x4 are laid
horizontally across roof to provide an anchor point, venting, and to smooth
out the attachment surface.

The ribbed panels over lap, there is a caulking tape that should be used on
overlap, the rib ends are filled by formed foam strips to keep the critters
out and a ridge cap is used with a breathing filler also to provide
ventilation with out critters.

Wes

On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 05:26:27 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 22:32:59 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:
On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 16:57:12 GMT, Dan_Musicant
wrote:

I'm wondering how practical a metal roof would be for my garage, which
is WAY past due for a reroof. it's virtually completely flat, 20 x 30
feet. I think there's a slight rake because there's a gutter along one
30 foot side. Normally, a flat roof would mean hot tar, virtually
impossible DIY and probably only good for 7 years. I figure a metal roof
properly/adequately installed might last a LOT longer, possibly with
occasional upkeep of some kind. Can anyone on this?

I wouldn't go with metal on a practically dead-flat roof because of
the 'standing water going over the edges of the seams' problem. And
there has to be at least a little slope for drainage - that close to
flat, you'll have low spots that puddle, and rust will start...

So he could always frame up some tiny trusses and go with metal,
insulating the open space created after ventilating the roof properly.

You could false it out and put some slope there, and then have
enough slope to use a metal roof. Remember to add eave vents on the
ends and perhaps a bit of ridge vent at the center, so there is some
air circulation in the new "attic".

Torch-down Modified roll roofing on a properly prepared substrate
(felt and underlayment) would hold up fine - that's our back patio.

Tell me about torching-down MRR, please. Speaking of which, I just
swung by HF yesterday and picked up one of the self-igniting weed
torches. I've heard they're good for hot tar mods, too.

That's all it takes - you start to place the roofing from the bottom
of the roof and flip it over, heat the backing with the weed torch
till it melts, then flip it over and press down the edges with a heavy
floor roller.

Hope you got the torch with the pilot light valve and the trigger
main valve - much better control over the intensity. The piezo
lighter is of dubious value - IMHO something to break when dropped.

I need to redo
my back porch with a downward angle and reroof. The original installer
had it V-shaped (tilting back toward the house to drain into the
gutters) and it leaks into my back wall. sigh

Get a sheetmetal specialist to look at it - they do make special
metal for rain-gutter use, with an edge that you torch the Modified
Roofing on the patio roof down to. The other edge is tucked under the
drip edge metal from the house roof, and caulked.

That, or put a scupper drain at the low spot of the patio roof, and
take the Modified Roll up to and under the regular roof shingles.
Always more than one way to attack a problem like that.

I'll probably go with
MRR or maybe shingles. It's only 8x10ish. Then again, once I get it
stripped, I may want to move to metal or just peel more off and go
with fiberglass for the extra light in the dining room. We'll see.

Regular roofing with some simple "single-pane" skylights with curbs
is going to hold up better than fiberglass sheeting. When the
fiberglass goes bad you have to replace the whole roof again.

You may have to special order the "cheap skylights", because they
figure they're all being used into an inhabited space and have to be
double pane for the thermal insulation. If you are over an open
patio, there are no such restrictions - you might even want the ones
with the ventilation louvers on the top edge of the curbs.

-- Bruce --

On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 11:08:09 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 05:26:27 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

So he could always frame up some tiny trusses and go with metal,
insulating the open space created after ventilating the roof properly.

You could false it out and put some slope there, and then have
enough slope to use a metal roof. Remember to add eave vents on the
ends and perhaps a bit of ridge vent at the center, so there is some
air circulation in the new "attic".

I was thinking of venting the roof vs. the "attic".


Torch-down Modified roll roofing on a properly prepared substrate
(felt and underlayment) would hold up fine - that's our back patio.

Tell me about torching-down MRR, please. Speaking of which, I just
swung by HF yesterday and picked up one of the self-igniting weed
torches. I've heard they're good for hot tar mods, too.

That's all it takes - you start to place the roofing from the bottom
of the roof and flip it over, heat the backing with the weed torch
till it melts, then flip it over and press down the edges with a heavy
floor roller.

Cool!


Hope you got the torch with the pilot light valve and the trigger
main valve - much better control over the intensity. The piezo
lighter is of dubious value - IMHO something to break when dropped.

I spent the extra $10 and got the igniter. Yes, it has the flow valve
and a burst lever for fuel savings when it's not actively in use. $30
on sale at HF. I'll try it out on the weeds tomorrow if it's a burn
day. My neighbor has one which keeps going out, so I opted for the
piezo starter. He has his relegated to the burn pile only.


I need to redo
my back porch with a downward angle and reroof. The original installer
had it V-shaped (tilting back toward the house to drain into the
gutters) and it leaks into my back wall. sigh

Get a sheetmetal specialist to look at it - they do make special
metal for rain-gutter use, with an edge that you torch the Modified
Roofing on the patio roof down to. The other edge is tucked under the
drip edge metal from the house roof, and caulked.

ChaCHING! Pass. I'm too che^H^H^Hfrugal for that.


That, or put a scupper drain at the low spot of the patio roof, and
take the Modified Roll up to and under the regular roof shingles.
Always more than one way to attack a problem like that.

I'd rather just take the 4x8 out, pull a few nails, adjust the 2x8s,
paper it, and gutter the end. Tilting the patio cover toward the roof
has always been a bad idea AFAIC.


I'll probably go with
MRR or maybe shingles. It's only 8x10ish. Then again, once I get it
stripped, I may want to move to metal or just peel more off and go
with fiberglass for the extra light in the dining room. We'll see.

Regular roofing with some simple "single-pane" skylights with curbs
is going to hold up better than fiberglass sheeting. When the
fiberglass goes bad you have to replace the whole roof again.

$75 a decade ain't a hard pill to swallow. But that would be loud in
the rain. I think the rolled roofing on a reversed tilt is my best
bet. I already have a roll of felt for redoing the pump house roof.
Maybe a coat of white paint on the back patio would light the house
more easily. The white shop floor, despite how easily it shows dirt,
is really great. I can find those dropped hardware pieces (Jesus clips
and such) MUCH easier now and it brightened the whole shop
considerably.

--
Knowledge and timber shouldn't be much used till they are seasoned.
-- Oliver Wendell Holmes

Dan_Musicant wrote:

I'm wondering how practical a metal roof would be for my garage, which
is WAY past due for a reroof. it's virtually completely flat, 20 x 30
feet. I think there's a slight rake because there's a gutter along one
30 foot side. Normally, a flat roof would mean hot tar, virtually
impossible DIY and probably only good for 7 years. I figure a metal roof
properly/adequately installed might last a LOT longer, possibly with
occasional upkeep of some kind. Can anyone on this?

When I did the metal roof over my place the pitch was 2 1/2 in twelve. Not
so great in snow country. I added structural members to change the pitch to
5 in 12.

Wes