On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 11:08:09 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 05:26:27 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

So he could always frame up some tiny trusses and go with metal,
insulating the open space created after ventilating the roof properly.

You could false it out and put some slope there, and then have
enough slope to use a metal roof. Remember to add eave vents on the
ends and perhaps a bit of ridge vent at the center, so there is some
air circulation in the new "attic".

I was thinking of venting the roof vs. the "attic".


Torch-down Modified roll roofing on a properly prepared substrate
(felt and underlayment) would hold up fine - that's our back patio.

Tell me about torching-down MRR, please. Speaking of which, I just
swung by HF yesterday and picked up one of the self-igniting weed
torches. I've heard they're good for hot tar mods, too.

That's all it takes - you start to place the roofing from the bottom
of the roof and flip it over, heat the backing with the weed torch
till it melts, then flip it over and press down the edges with a heavy
floor roller.

Cool!


Hope you got the torch with the pilot light valve and the trigger
main valve - much better control over the intensity. The piezo
lighter is of dubious value - IMHO something to break when dropped.

I spent the extra $10 and got the igniter. Yes, it has the flow valve
and a burst lever for fuel savings when it's not actively in use. $30
on sale at HF. I'll try it out on the weeds tomorrow if it's a burn
day. My neighbor has one which keeps going out, so I opted for the
piezo starter. He has his relegated to the burn pile only.


I need to redo
my back porch with a downward angle and reroof. The original installer
had it V-shaped (tilting back toward the house to drain into the
gutters) and it leaks into my back wall. sigh

Get a sheetmetal specialist to look at it - they do make special
metal for rain-gutter use, with an edge that you torch the Modified
Roofing on the patio roof down to. The other edge is tucked under the
drip edge metal from the house roof, and caulked.

ChaCHING! Pass. I'm too che^H^H^Hfrugal for that.


That, or put a scupper drain at the low spot of the patio roof, and
take the Modified Roll up to and under the regular roof shingles.
Always more than one way to attack a problem like that.

I'd rather just take the 4x8 out, pull a few nails, adjust the 2x8s,
paper it, and gutter the end. Tilting the patio cover toward the roof
has always been a bad idea AFAIC.


I'll probably go with
MRR or maybe shingles. It's only 8x10ish. Then again, once I get it
stripped, I may want to move to metal or just peel more off and go
with fiberglass for the extra light in the dining room. We'll see.

Regular roofing with some simple "single-pane" skylights with curbs
is going to hold up better than fiberglass sheeting. When the
fiberglass goes bad you have to replace the whole roof again.

$75 a decade ain't a hard pill to swallow. But that would be loud in
the rain. I think the rolled roofing on a reversed tilt is my best
bet. I already have a roll of felt for redoing the pump house roof.
Maybe a coat of white paint on the back patio would light the house
more easily. The white shop floor, despite how easily it shows dirt,
is really great. I can find those dropped hardware pieces (Jesus clips
and such) MUCH easier now and it brightened the whole shop
considerably.

--
Knowledge and timber shouldn't be much used till they are seasoned.
-- Oliver Wendell Holmes