I'm tired of not being able to force grease into chassis fittings with my
existing grease guns. Mostly working on my '48 & '52 Pontiacs and my
children's newer cars.
Yes, I've never paid more than $ 24 bucks for a grease gun. Have two manual
guns and one air powered. All the guns prefer to dispense the grease
alongside the zerk fitting rather than into the fitting.

I'm willing to pay a good price and throw all my cheap guns away. Any
recommendations???

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
I'm tired of not being able to force grease into chassis fittings with my
existing grease guns.

Suggest just try a good quality nozzle - the bit that fits onto grease
nipple. They all seem to be the same thread (?), and might be a better
fit to the nipples.

Sounds more like human err than equipment failure. Usually when a zerk
fitting will not take grease it's because the grease in the fitting or just
beyond it has hardened and it takes more pressure to break it loose than the
pressure being exerted to hold the gun against the fitting or the gun is not
aligned correctly to the zerk.
On straight, not angled fittings, there is a tool made that clears out
hardened grease in a zerk. It's merely a tube with a rod inside to act as a
piston and the nose fits a zerk. You put some light oil into the cylinder,
put it on the zerk and then hit the top of the rod with a hammer. This will
open the zerk and passage ways.
Dick

--
Richard H. Neighbors
Building and repairing fine billiard cues for real pool players at
affordable prices.
Over 35 years exp. Located in Cincinnati OH
ph.# 513 233-7499
e-mail
web site http://www.dickiecues.com
"Jordan" wrote in message
...
Ivan Vegvary wrote:
I'm tired of not being able to force grease into chassis fittings with my
existing grease guns.

Suggest just try a good quality nozzle - the bit that fits onto grease
nipple. They all seem to be the same thread (?), and might be a better fit
to the nipples.

The quality of the zerk connection is important. Replacing the fitting
sometimes helps.
Decades ago I can remember being chewed out by my aircraft maintenance
instructor for pushing the fitting straight onto the nipple. That old
English instructor demanded that the connection be rolled on and off the
zerk to preserve the fit. I have no idea if it made a difference.
Randy


"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:YDy1g.1196$Fy1.1142@trnddc02...
I'm tired of not being able to force grease into chassis fittings with my
existing grease guns. Mostly working on my '48 & '52 Pontiacs and my
children's newer cars.
Yes, I've never paid more than $ 24 bucks for a grease gun. Have two manual
guns and one air powered. All the guns prefer to dispense the grease
alongside the zerk fitting rather than into the fitting.

I'm willing to pay a good price and throw all my cheap guns away. Any
recommendations???

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:YDy1g.1196$Fy1.1142@trnddc02...
I'm tired of not being able to force grease into chassis fittings with my
existing grease guns. Mostly working on my '48 & '52 Pontiacs and my
children's newer cars.
Yes, I've never paid more than $ 24 bucks for a grease gun. Have two manual
guns and one air powered. All the guns prefer to dispense the grease
alongside the zerk fitting rather than into the fitting.

Sometimes this just means that the other side of the zerk is a impacted
mass of dried up grease (well, you hope it was once grease). Sometimes
replacing the zerk helps, other times you need to disassemble the thing
to get the crap out so that grease can flow again, as the zerk was not
where the problem was. All it takes is someone ignoring the joint for a
few years/decades. I have a bit too much experience with this on my
backhoe, as some former owner did not believe in the stuff (as evidenced
by the coat of paint, not particularly new paint, which lay unbroken
over many zerks).

Note - if you think the problem is the end of your grease gun, you can
buy replacements (end and/or end and tube/hose), and if your existing
guns are not actually too bad, just screw off the old and screw on the
new.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

I use many tubes of grease per year on the farm. I hear on el cheapo grease
guns.

I don't know the brand name, but I bought one from the Snap-on truck (brand
of tools). You would not believe the difference!!!

I got the same story with screwdrivers. I used to just buy Sears Crapsman.
After using a couple of the high grade units, I won't go back.

You gets what you pays for.

Karl

"Ecnerwal" wrote in message
...
"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:YDy1g.1196$Fy1.1142@trnddc02...
I'm tired of not being able to force grease into chassis fittings with my
existing grease guns. Mostly working on my '48 & '52 Pontiacs and my
children's newer cars.
Yes, I've never paid more than $ 24 bucks for a grease gun. Have two
manual
guns and one air powered. All the guns prefer to dispense the grease
alongside the zerk fitting rather than into the fitting.

Sometimes this just means that the other side of the zerk is a impacted
mass of dried up grease (well, you hope it was once grease). Sometimes
replacing the zerk helps, other times you need to disassemble the thing
to get the crap out so that grease can flow again, as the zerk was not
where the problem was.

Sometimes heat works, although it's a smoky job and lighting the grease up
is always a possibility.

In article WdB1g.40872$P01.1544@pd7tw3no,
"R. Zimmerman" wrote:

The quality of the zerk connection is important. Replacing the fitting
sometimes helps.
Decades ago I can remember being chewed out by my aircraft maintenance
instructor for pushing the fitting straight onto the nipple. That old
English instructor demanded that the connection be rolled on and off the
zerk to preserve the fit. I have no idea if it made a difference.
Randy

I was also taught this in A&P school. Don't ever recall seeing it in
print though...

A good quality coupling/nozzle really makes a big difference, costs
little and lasts practically forever. A good investment if there ever
was one. The one I have rotates around, and can be quickly one hand
configured to reach most any zerk you can find.

OT observation mode on.

Here's a partial list of tool related things I've learned through the
years not to skimp ON.

A good high tension hack saw frame. Better yet, 3 good high tension
frames, one for 18, 24 and 32 TPI blades.

A good bench Vise (properly mounted with the fixed jaw just beyond the
bench edge, allowing long objects to be held vertically). I have a
dedicated ceiling mounted spot light trained right on my Wilton.

Good shop lighting.

A nice for real steel anvil. Doesn't have to be huge unless you really
have a need... however 55 to 65 lbs min.

If you do any automotive work, a top of the line professional floor
jack, along with a set of nice big beefy jack stands.

A nice set of dial or digital calipers. (And take good care of them)

A good combination square.

A good 3/8" drill motor. (I still prefer the old corded drills as they
are smaller, powerful, and won't surprise you with a battery being down
when you need it. Cordless i agree is the way to go if you need the
portability.)

I could go on all night, probably should have started a new thread.

OT observation mode OFF.

Erik



Erik

Very high on the "don't skimp" list:

Vise grip brand locking pliers.

Crow bars and Pry bars made in the USA only.


______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Erik" wrote in message
...
In article WdB1g.40872$P01.1544@pd7tw3no,
"R. Zimmerman" wrote:

The quality of the zerk connection is important. Replacing the
fitting
sometimes helps.
Decades ago I can remember being chewed out by my aircraft
maintenance
instructor for pushing the fitting straight onto the nipple.
That old
English instructor demanded that the connection be rolled on
and off the
zerk to preserve the fit. I have no idea if it made a
difference.
Randy

I was also taught this in A&P school. Don't ever recall seeing
it in
print though...

A good quality coupling/nozzle really makes a big difference,
costs
little and lasts practically forever. A good investment if there
ever
was one. The one I have rotates around, and can be quickly one
hand
configured to reach most any zerk you can find.

OT observation mode on.

Here's a partial list of tool related things I've learned
through the
years not to skimp ON.

A good high tension hack saw frame. Better yet, 3 good high
tension
frames, one for 18, 24 and 32 TPI blades.

A good bench Vise (properly mounted with the fixed jaw just
beyond the
bench edge, allowing long objects to be held vertically). I have
a
dedicated ceiling mounted spot light trained right on my Wilton.

Good shop lighting.

A nice for real steel anvil. Doesn't have to be huge unless you
really
have a need... however 55 to 65 lbs min.

If you do any automotive work, a top of the line professional
floor
jack, along with a set of nice big beefy jack stands.

A nice set of dial or digital calipers. (And take good care of
them)

A good combination square.

A good 3/8" drill motor. (I still prefer the old corded drills
as they
are smaller, powerful, and won't surprise you with a battery
being down
when you need it. Cordless i agree is the way to go if you need
the
portability.)

I could go on all night, probably should have started a new
thread.

OT observation mode OFF.

Erik



Erik

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:YDy1g.1196$Fy1.1142@trnddc02...
I'm tired of not being able to force grease into chassis fittings with my
existing grease guns. Mostly working on my '48 & '52 Pontiacs and my
children's newer cars.
Yes, I've never paid more than $ 24 bucks for a grease gun. Have two
manual guns and one air powered. All the guns prefer to dispense the
grease alongside the zerk fitting rather than into the fitting.

I'm willing to pay a good price and throw all my cheap guns away. Any
recommendations???

Thanks,
Ivan Vegvary

My grease gun nozzels/sockets.. are adjustable like a chuck. Loosen it up
to a good slipp fit for most zerks and tighten it down wile on the zerk for
the tough ones. I don't like the idea of blowing the nasty hard gunk into
the bearings so I usually remove, clean or replaece and reinstall the zerks
that won't take grease.

Glenn

we do a fair amount of line boring and bearing repair on off the road
equipment at work and usually the cause of the failed , galled wore out
bearing / bushing is the grease lines have become completely plugged
along their entire length , a real hard thing to do in some spots ...


well i made our guys a couple of adapters to allow them to hook up the
10000 psi power unit to purge through the grease line , don't recommend
doing it with the bearing/ pins / bushings in place but boy does it ever
clean out a passageway

I don't like the idea of blowing the nasty hard gunk into
the bearings so I usually remove, clean or replaece and reinstall the zerks
that won't take grease.

Glenn


I used to have an English car, that instead of nipples had plugs on all
grease points. The advice was to remove plug, fit a clean nipple and
then grease. Quite a job!
For suspension parts, lifting vehicle off ground (not by the wheels)
helps get the grease where it's needed.

In article ,
Jordan wrote:

I used to have an English car, that instead of nipples had plugs on all
grease points. The advice was to remove plug, fit a clean nipple and
then grease. Quite a job!

Certainly makes the labor cost for a basic service higher, and provides
even more opportunity to get dirt in there.

What I find difficult to believe is that I've only ever seen one place
(Clark's Corvair Parts, which I met when I was owned by a '65
convertible for a few years and thus needed to keep their catalog handy)
that had or suggested zerk covers to keep the crap out of them - small,
inexpensive rubber parts. I never really feel that "wiping with a clean
rag" is exactly adequate when the zerk is covered with dirt and sand to
begin with.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:YDy1g.1196$Fy1.1142@trnddc02...
I'm tired of not being able to force grease into chassis fittings with my
existing grease guns. Mostly working on my '48 & '52 Pontiacs and my
children's newer cars.
Yes, I've never paid more than $ 24 bucks for a grease gun. Have two
manual guns and one air powered. All the guns prefer to dispense the
grease alongside the zerk fitting rather than into the fitting.

I'm willing to pay a good price and throw all my cheap guns away. Any
recommendations???


I've never seen a mid-priced grease gun that didn't work. You may have
another problem.

Sometimes the ball-checks in zerks freeze up, or dirt clogs the passages.
If one holds the gun nozzle firmly against the zerk, and grease only escapes
around it, suspect a clogged fitting.

Most zerks are easily changed, but if you can't, there's a manual 'hammer'
tool available (Northern Tools) to clear a clogged zerk. It fits over the
fitting like a grease gun nozzle, and with a blow of a hammer, forces light
oil into the fitting to purge it. After such cleaning, a full flushing of
the affected joint with fresh grease finishes the job.

By the way... DONT use the hammer tool on a sealed ball bearing. It'll blow
the seals out.
For that matter, you should never lubricate a bearing unless it's running,
anyway.

I have several machines with close-running bushed shafts. They require a
lot of pressure to lubricate. The cheap ($16) Ace Hardware gun I have does
fine. The baby 'mini-gun' I bought from Discount Auto works fine, too.

LLoyd

I know it might seem a funny thing to suggest, but do you have a JCB
excavator dealership near you? I bought a grease gun from my local
dealer for £9 (about $15 I think) and it's the best grease gun I've ever
used. It's bright yellow so I never lose it, too.

Chris