I just got a used abrasive cutoff saw from eBay. Works great except for one
small flaw - the blade seems to be slightly canted so I don't get a
perfectly square cut. I removed the blade and laid it flat on a level floor
so I think the blade itself is ok. There also seems to be a small amount of
wobble in it.

I plan on using it mostly for cutting small 1 inch square aluminum
extrusions such as 80-20 brand.

I was just wondering if there is a way to adjust this offset at all? This is
a cheap saw, as seen he http://www.waycoolgear.com/ebay/cutoffsaw2.jpg

The label only the motor says "Chicago Electric".

Thanks for any help!

pogo wrote:
I just got a used abrasive cutoff saw from eBay. Works great except for one
small flaw - the blade seems to be slightly canted so I don't get a
perfectly square cut. I removed the blade and laid it flat on a level floor
so I think the blade itself is ok. There also seems to be a small amount of
wobble in it.

I plan on using it mostly for cutting small 1 inch square aluminum
extrusions such as 80-20 brand.

I was just wondering if there is a way to adjust this offset at all? This is
a cheap saw, as seen he http://www.waycoolgear.com/ebay/cutoffsaw2.jpg

The label only the motor says "Chicago Electric".

Thanks for any help!




Isn't there an inner flange ? Is it warped ?
Ken Cutt

Can anyone recommend a store in the greater Phoenix, AZ area that has
a good selection of air compressor "stuff." (E.g. air filters for a
Honda GX240 and various compressors, air hoses, connectors, pop off
valves, etc.)

__________________
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You might want to repost this -- you put it underneath mine and it is likely
nobody will see it unless they read my post.

"Barry S." wrote in message
...
Can anyone recommend a store in the greater Phoenix, AZ area that has
a good selection of air compressor "stuff." (E.g. air filters for a
Honda GX240 and various compressors, air hoses, connectors, pop off
valves, etc.)

__________________
Note: To reply, replace the word 'spam' embedded in return address with
'mail'.

Isn't there an inner flange ? Is it warped ?
Ken Cutt

You mean the round metal plates that fit on each side of the blade over the
shaft ? Hmmm. I'll have to take a look. Good idea!

I just got a used abrasive cutoff saw from eBay. Works great except for one
small flaw - the blade seems to be slightly canted so I don't get a
perfectly square cut. I removed the blade and laid it flat on a level
floor
so I think the blade itself is ok. There also seems to be a small amount
of
wobble in it.

In my experience those blades are pretty flexible so it's not unusual to
have some flex that keeps your cut from being square. The faster you cut
the worse it shows so you might try a really slow cut to make sure that's
not what's happening. It's ESPECIALLY bad with anything other than a 90
degree cut because as the blade hits the metal it's forced to the side.

Also, if what you're cutting is something like thin-wall tubing the part
that's being cut off often has a tendancy to ride up as you get toward the
lower wall of the cut (unless it's heavy enough to droop instead) causing
the top of the cut end to press against the blade. Since the sides of the
blade are abrasive this causes the top edge of your piece to be ground down
some. (Did that makes sense? It's easy to show by example but difficult to
describe.) In this case the piece in the vise should have a fairly square
cut but the cutoff piece will be angled.

The label only the motor says "Chicago Electric".

That's Harbor Freight's "House" brand.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44829

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

"pogo" wrote in
:


I plan on using it mostly for cutting small 1 inch square aluminum
extrusions such as 80-20 brand.


A much better solution for 80/20 is a miter saw with a non-ferrous
carbide blade. Abrasive cut-off saw blades are not so good with
aluminum, as they load up easily, which can also be dangerous. We do
tons of 80/20 in a year, and the miter saw is the way to go.
Ours is a Rigid brand (home despot), $299 with a laser line, stand, table
extension and a quick-adjust clamp.



--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

In my experience those blades are pretty flexible so it's not unusual to
have some flex that keeps your cut from being square. The faster you cut
the worse it shows so you might try a really slow cut to make sure that's
not what's happening. It's ESPECIALLY bad with anything other than a 90
degree cut because as the blade hits the metal it's forced to the side.

Also, if what you're cutting is something like thin-wall tubing the part
that's being cut off often has a tendancy to ride up as you get toward the
lower wall of the cut (unless it's heavy enough to droop instead) causing
the top of the cut end to press against the blade. Since the sides of the
blade are abrasive this causes the top edge of your piece to be ground
down
some. (Did that makes sense? It's easy to show by example but difficult
to
describe.) In this case the piece in the vise should have a fairly square
cut but the cutoff piece will be angled.

The label only the motor says "Chicago Electric".

That's Harbor Freight's "House" brand.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44829

GREAT information! I thought I had noticed the blade flexing a little but
wasn't sure. I don't think that's causing the major angle problem, but it
doesn't help much.

Thanks again !
JCD

A much better solution for 80/20 is a miter saw with a non-ferrous
carbide blade. Abrasive cut-off saw blades are not so good with
aluminum, as they load up easily, which can also be dangerous. We do
tons of 80/20 in a year, and the miter saw is the way to go.
Ours is a Rigid brand (home despot), $299 with a laser line, stand, table
extension and a quick-adjust clamp.

This is exactly what I needed to know! Thank you very much!

Do you have a favorite brand for the blade ? Do you mount it in the normal
direction ? ( Someone suggesting using a plywood veneer blade mounted
backwards one time ... )

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

I think this may apply to me ! :-)

Thanks again! Very helpful!

"pogo" wrote in
:


Do you have a favorite brand for the blade ? Do you mount it in the
normal direction ? ( Someone suggesting using a plywood veneer blade
mounted backwards one time ... )



Do not mount it backwards. We use blades from McMaster-Carr. Make sure
you get 'non-ferrous metal cutting blades'. They have a different grade
of carbide, and a different grind from normal carbide blades.
I also suggest a good vac, helps keep the mess down, and makes it easier
to clean up.
Use a good wax or light oil on the blade.


--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

Do not mount it backwards. We use blades from McMaster-Carr. Make sure
you get 'non-ferrous metal cutting blades'. They have a different grade
of carbide, and a different grind from normal carbide blades.
I also suggest a good vac, helps keep the mess down, and makes it easier
to clean up.
Use a good wax or light oil on the blade.

Thanks yet again!

I was "window shopping" today and noticed some very affordable 10" mitre
saws at Sears(Craftsman) and also Home Depot (Rigid & Ryobi). Would you
recommend the 14" ones over the smaller blade ones for any reason? All of
the models I looked at had 15 amp motors.

I wonder if the larger blades might last longer and therefore be worth the
extra investment both in a machine and the blade itself ?

I can see myself making maybe 50 to 100 cuts of the 8020 extrusions in the
near future. If I get to the point of making more then I would be willing to
invest in a more expensive saw if there is good compensation for the extra
expense. I would also very likely be using it for some moulding & trim work
now and then.

Thanks!
JCD

"pogo" wrote in
:


I was "window shopping" today and noticed some very affordable 10"
mitre saws at Sears(Craftsman) and also Home Depot (Rigid & Ryobi).
Would you recommend the 14" ones over the smaller blade ones for any
reason? All of the models I looked at had 15 amp motors.

I wonder if the larger blades might last longer and therefore be worth
the extra investment both in a machine and the blade itself ?

I can see myself making maybe 50 to 100 cuts of the 8020 extrusions in
the near future. If I get to the point of making more then I would be
willing to invest in a more expensive saw if there is good
compensation for the extra expense. I would also very likely be using
it for some moulding & trim work now and then.


I definately recommend the 12" or 14".
The reason for us to use the 12" is we cut up to the 40-8016 size 80/20.
A 12" saw will do this, a 10" will not.
The blade we use is McMaster Carr #6910A58, $75.54, 60 Tooth with a 12°
hook angle. We have been on the same blade, under heavy daily use, (By
heavy daily use, I am talking about 80-100 cuts a day minimum, in
extrusion, or solid aluminum bar stock/squares/rounds or tubing.) for
over 6 months. It is beginning to show some wear and aluminum build-up on
the edges though. But it has a lot of cut time on it.

--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

On Mon, 13 Feb 2006 16:33:25 -0500, "pogo"
wrote:

In my experience those blades are pretty flexible so it's not unusual to
have some flex that keeps your cut from being square. The faster you cut
the worse it shows so you might try a really slow cut to make sure that's
not what's happening. It's ESPECIALLY bad with anything other than a 90
degree cut because as the blade hits the metal it's forced to the side.

Also, if what you're cutting is something like thin-wall tubing the part
that's being cut off often has a tendancy to ride up as you get toward the
lower wall of the cut (unless it's heavy enough to droop instead) causing
the top of the cut end to press against the blade. Since the sides of the
blade are abrasive this causes the top edge of your piece to be ground
down
some. (Did that makes sense? It's easy to show by example but difficult
to
describe.) In this case the piece in the vise should have a fairly square
cut but the cutoff piece will be angled.

The label only the motor says "Chicago Electric".

That's Harbor Freight's "House" brand.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44829

GREAT information! I thought I had noticed the blade flexing a little but
wasn't sure. I don't think that's causing the major angle problem, but it
doesn't help much.

Thanks again !
JCD

Depending on age..there was indeed a manufacture called Chicago
Electric. I have a rather elderly 8" grinder with that logo and an
address in Chicago.

Gunner



"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them;
the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."
- Proverbs 22:3

Anthony wrote:

"pogo" wrote in
:




I was "window shopping" today and noticed some very affordable 10"
mitre saws at Sears(Craftsman) and also Home Depot (Rigid & Ryobi).
Would you recommend the 14" ones over the smaller blade ones for any
reason? All of the models I looked at had 15 amp motors.

I wonder if the larger blades might last longer and therefore be worth
the extra investment both in a machine and the blade itself ?

I can see myself making maybe 50 to 100 cuts of the 8020 extrusions in
the near future. If I get to the point of making more then I would be
willing to invest in a more expensive saw if there is good
compensation for the extra expense. I would also very likely be using
it for some moulding & trim work now and then.




I definately recommend the 12" or 14".
The reason for us to use the 12" is we cut up to the 40-8016 size 80/20.
A 12" saw will do this, a 10" will not.
The blade we use is McMaster Carr #6910A58, $75.54, 60 Tooth with a 12°
hook angle. We have been on the same blade, under heavy daily use, (By
heavy daily use, I am talking about 80-100 cuts a day minimum, in
extrusion, or solid aluminum bar stock/squares/rounds or tubing.) for
over 6 months. It is beginning to show some wear and aluminum build-up on
the edges though. But it has a lot of cut time on it.



What Anthony said...only louder.

The only thing I am a little confused about is the 12 degree hook angle.
We generally use a negative rake, about 5 degrees. A positive rake
seems to want to self feed a bit and can get scary in the wrong situation.

One thing about chop saws used to cut AL parts....faster is better.
Although most saws like this run at a standard speed of about 3450, I
have a 7000 RPM radial arm saw and you definitely notice a cleaner cut
that is more on the end of burrless (self feeding scary nightmare
though!). The same goes for our jump saws that we use to cut AL tubing
on a daily basis.

Oh yea...to the point of the question....12" minimum. Nothing worse
than being 1/8" too small to cut the part you need.

Koz

What Anthony said...only louder.
...
though!). The same goes for our jump saws that we use to cut AL tubing
on a daily basis.

Thanks for some more good info! What is a "jump saw" ?

In article ,
says...


I can see myself making maybe 50 to 100 cuts of the 8020 extrusions in the
near future. If I get to the point of making more then I would be willing to
invest in a more expensive saw if there is good compensation for the extra
expense. I would also very likely be using it for some moulding & trim work
now and then.


I use a fair amount of 80-20 type extrusion (usually Item), and rarely
cut it myself. Though you can make clean, accurate cuts with the methods
described, I find it's well worth doing an accurate design and having
the factory do the cutting. Item charges $1.50/cut, with no premium on
the cost of the material. At $20-$40/meter for the extrusion, I prefer
to let the vendor make the mistakes.

Ned Simmons

Ned Simmons wrote in
:



I use a fair amount of 80-20 type extrusion (usually Item), and rarely
cut it myself. Though you can make clean, accurate cuts with the
methods described, I find it's well worth doing an accurate design and
having the factory do the cutting. Item charges $1.50/cut, with no
premium on the cost of the material. At $20-$40/meter for the
extrusion, I prefer to let the vendor make the mistakes.

Ned,
That works fine if you are building from scratch new. Doesn't work so
well when you are adapting to a set of old machines that were hand-built
to begin with, or maybe have been modified 100 times over the years.
We are set-up to do this in-house. Mill for the anchors, saw for the
extrusion, etc.
At 100+ cuts a day...that $1.50/cut adds up considerably in short order.
Not to mention the lead time involved.


--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

pogo wrote:

What Anthony said...only louder.
...
though!). The same goes for our jump saws that we use to cut AL tubing
on a daily basis.



Thanks for some more good info! What is a "jump saw" ?




One example at http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0549

Blade jumps straight up through the table into the work, usually by
pressing a foot pedal. Really fast when you are making cut after cut on
material. It only does straight 90 degree cuts though (in 99% of cases).

I've seen similar used in the wood products industry to high-grade stock
to be end joined later. They were making about 150 cuts a minute by
hand and without blade guards. The operator had to decide where to cut
and make the cut (hand on each side of the blade holding the stock down)
at the rate of 2 to 3 per second. It was a little surprising that they
still had fingers.

Koz