So, not to bore with the details of why, but I need to take the guts out of
a set of struts from a car. The struts have a minimal amount of cylinder
that extend above the spring perch, but that's where I need to cut the top
of the strut off and remove the original shock "guts." One method I've
seen used is one of those pipe cutters that you turn by hand. That may
work, but it's pretty tedious.

My thought was to use my small Jet metal cutting bandsaw (assuming I can
get the thing clamped in there somewhat straight with the spring perch in
the way. But that would mean I'm not only cutting through the strut body
(which is mild steel), but I'm going to be cutting through the shock piston
along the way. Anyone know if shock pistons are hardened or some hard
alloy or something? I know they're coated (obviously), but is the thing
something that might eat my bandsaw blade?

Oh, and the strut will be depressurized first by piercing it with a hole in
the bottom of the body. Most of the oil will drain, but there may still be
some in there. I could also torch cut it and then clean up the cut, I
suppose, but I fear doing that with all that oil that could still be in
there.


--Donnie

--
Donnie Barnes http://www.donniebarnes.com 879. V.

The pistons will eat a bandsaw blade. Sounds like an abrasive cutoff saw
is the quickest.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44829

Donnie Barnes wrote:
So, not to bore with the details of why, but I need to take the guts out of
a set of struts from a car. The struts have a minimal amount of cylinder
that extend above the spring perch, but that's where I need to cut the top
of the strut off and remove the original shock "guts." One method I've
seen used is one of those pipe cutters that you turn by hand. That may
work, but it's pretty tedious.

My thought was to use my small Jet metal cutting bandsaw (assuming I can
get the thing clamped in there somewhat straight with the spring perch in
the way. But that would mean I'm not only cutting through the strut body
(which is mild steel), but I'm going to be cutting through the shock piston
along the way. Anyone know if shock pistons are hardened or some hard
alloy or something? I know they're coated (obviously), but is the thing
something that might eat my bandsaw blade?

Oh, and the strut will be depressurized first by piercing it with a hole in
the bottom of the body. Most of the oil will drain, but there may still be
some in there. I could also torch cut it and then clean up the cut, I
suppose, but I fear doing that with all that oil that could still be in
there.


--Donnie

Donnie Barnes wrote:
So, not to bore with the details of why, but I need to take the guts out of
a set of struts from a car. The struts have a minimal amount of cylinder
that extend above the spring perch, but that's where I need to cut the top
of the strut off and remove the original shock "guts." One method I've
seen used is one of those pipe cutters that you turn by hand. That may
work, but it's pretty tedious.

I used my 10" lathe for a couple last week. I just chucked up the body
kind litely and hit it with a threading cutter (because that's what was
in the toolpost). cut it right open, sprayed oil in a nice 360 pattern.
2nd one I stopped as soon as it broke through, turned the opening down
into the chip pan. Then completed taking it off.

My thought was to use my small Jet metal cutting bandsaw (assuming I can
get the thing clamped in there somewhat straight with the spring perch in
the way. But that would mean I'm not only cutting through the strut body
(which is mild steel), but I'm going to be cutting through the shock piston
along the way. Anyone know if shock pistons are hardened or some hard
alloy or something? I know they're coated (obviously), but is the thing
something that might eat my bandsaw blade?

All is soft stuff except for the shaft itself. Bandsaw won't have any
problem with anything except the hardened shaft surface.

Oh, and the strut will be depressurized first by piercing it with a hole in
the bottom of the body. Most of the oil will drain, but there may still be
some in there. I could also torch cut it and then clean up the cut, I
suppose, but I fear doing that with all that oil that could still be in
there.

It's messy, but I've cut them with a chopsaw, sparks and all, and
nothing caught fire. My purpose is usually to salvage the shafts, so I
don't mind trashing the rest of it.

RoyJ wrote:
The pistons will eat a bandsaw blade. Sounds like an abrasive cutoff saw
is the quickest.

How do you figure? I've cut a lot of shocks over the years. The pistons
are made of cast aluminum, stamped mild steel, or powdered metal. There
are shim springs in them that are hard, but the chances of hitting those
is slim.

On Wed, 09 Nov, Rex B wrote:
I used my 10" lathe for a couple last week. I just chucked up the body
kind litely and hit it with a threading cutter (because that's what was
in the toolpost). cut it right open, sprayed oil in a nice 360 pattern.
2nd one I stopped as soon as it broke through, turned the opening down
into the chip pan. Then completed taking it off.

All I have is a mini-lathe. Unfortunately, these aren't mini-shocks.

All is soft stuff except for the shaft itself. Bandsaw won't have any
problem with anything except the hardened shaft surface.

I don't like the "except" above. I assume you mean it will just slow it
down somewhat.

It's messy, but I've cut them with a chopsaw, sparks and all, and
nothing caught fire. My purpose is usually to salvage the shafts, so I
don't mind trashing the rest of it.

Hmm, didn't think of doing that. I've got one of those, and it isn't a
mini-chopsaw, so I should be fine. Probably faster than waiting on that
bandsaw, too.

Just out of curiosity, what do you salvage the shafts for?


--Donnie

--
Donnie Barnes http://www.donniebarnes.com 879. V.

Oops, I meant the shaft. The pistons are soft. The shell is just mild
steel.

Rex B wrote:

RoyJ wrote:

The pistons will eat a bandsaw blade. Sounds like an abrasive cutoff
saw is the quickest.


How do you figure? I've cut a lot of shocks over the years. The pistons
are made of cast aluminum, stamped mild steel, or powdered metal. There
are shim springs in them that are hard, but the chances of hitting those
is slim.

It is just the surface of the shaft that is hard. Chrome plated. Once
you get below the plating it is easy to cut.
Dan

Rex B wrote:


All is soft stuff except for the shaft itself. Bandsaw won't have any
problem with anything except the hardened shaft surface.

All is soft stuff except for the shaft itself. Bandsaw won't have any
problem with anything except the hardened shaft surface.


I don't like the "except" above. I assume you mean it will just slow it
down somewhat.

The shaft is hard-chromed. I doubt a bandsaw will be able to bite into
it. The hard part stops about an inch from the treaded part, typically.
It's obvious by looking at it.


It's messy, but I've cut them with a chopsaw, sparks and all, and
nothing caught fire. My purpose is usually to salvage the shafts, so I
don't mind trashing the rest of it.


Hmm, didn't think of doing that. I've got one of those, and it isn't a
mini-chopsaw, so I should be fine. Probably faster than waiting on that
bandsaw, too.

Absolutely. I try to cut them close to the base, as the inner cylinder
is some nice tubing that is useful. I try to miss it.

Just out of curiosity, what do you salvage the shafts for?

They make great arbors. Both ends are threaded on a reduced shank. The
shaft is very accurate If you need to mount a gear, just turn the shaft
to the ID, slip the gear on, then use spacers and nut to hold it. After
a couple uses the shafting becomes stock for miscellaneous projects.
I've seen shock rods used as replacement shafts for a QC box. They
are often just the right OD, and all they need is a keyway. Very nice
low-friction shafts.

Donnie Barnes wrote:

On Wed, 09 Nov, Rex B wrote:


I used my 10" lathe for a couple last week. I just chucked up the body
kind litely and hit it with a threading cutter (because that's what was
in the toolpost). cut it right open, sprayed oil in a nice 360 pattern.
2nd one I stopped as soon as it broke through, turned the opening down
into the chip pan. Then completed taking it off.



All I have is a mini-lathe. Unfortunately, these aren't mini-shocks.



All is soft stuff except for the shaft itself. Bandsaw won't have any
problem with anything except the hardened shaft surface.



I don't like the "except" above. I assume you mean it will just slow it
down somewhat.


Nope, the strut rods are hardened chrome, and no cutting tool will cut that
surface. The inside is also darn hard, but can be cut with difficulty
by carbide cutters.
The chromed surface, however, can only be cut by grinding wheels or abrasive
saw blades. The inside of the shaft is still too hard to bandsaw with
any blade
I have.

Jon

wrote:
: It is just the surface of the shaft that is hard. Chrome plated. Once
: you get below the plating it is easy to cut.
: Dan

: Rex B wrote:


: All is soft stuff except for the shaft itself. Bandsaw won't have any
: problem with anything except the hardened shaft surface.
:

Nope, the strut rods are hardened chrome, and no cutting tool will cut that
surface. The inside is also darn hard, but can be cut with difficulty
by carbide cutters.
The chromed surface, however, can only be cut by grinding wheels or
abrasive
saw blades. The inside of the shaft is still too hard to bandsaw with
any blade
I have.

I haven't had any problem turning these once past the 'crust'.
Doesn't turn very pretty, but it's machinable for my purposes. I don't
think my HF bandsaw would have a problem cutting a de-chromed section.
but I may have to try it now.

On 9 Nov 2005 14:28:33 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Donnie
Barnes quickly quoth:

So, not to bore with the details of why, but I need to take the guts out of
a set of struts from a car. The struts have a minimal amount of cylinder
that extend above the spring perch, but that's where I need to cut the top
of the strut off and remove the original shock "guts." One method I've
seen used is one of those pipe cutters that you turn by hand. That may
work, but it's pretty tedious.

I've salvaged several strut rod shafts by cutting the housing open
with a 4x1/16" cutoff blade in a die grinder. HF sells the disks in
10-packs for $5 on sale quite often.

Since they were old and worn out, they were already depressurized.


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Donnie Barnes wrote in article
...
So, not to bore with the details of why, but I need to take the guts out
of
a set of struts from a car.

Ah, yes!

Spec. Miata requiring "stock" shocks....

No need to "bore" us with the "details...."

We have a pretty good idea.....

We currently "adjust" a lot of "stock shocks" ourselves for our oval-track
customers.

Right now, we're doing some research in the fluids area.......

On Wed, 09 Nov, Larry Jaques wrote:
I've salvaged several strut rod shafts by cutting the housing open
with a 4x1/16" cutoff blade in a die grinder. HF sells the disks in
10-packs for $5 on sale quite often.

Thanks. Looks like I'll be using the chop saw or a cutoff wheel.

Since they were old and worn out, they were already depressurized.

Yeah, and that's obvious when that's the case. Mine aren't depressurized,
but I'm cannibalizing them nonetheless.

In case anyone cares, it's common to do this on strut cars to replace the
shocks with single adjustable race shocks. It's easier for them to
manufacture an "insert" that goes in the original strut body than to
manufacture complete replacment struts.

So you drill a small hole in the bottom of the strut to depressurize, then
cut the top of the strut off and remove guts. Then drill a larger hole in
the bottom, insert the new shock, and run bolt through bottom hole into new
shock to hold it in place.


--Donnie

--
Donnie Barnes http://www.donniebarnes.com 879. V.

On Wed, 09 Nov, * wrote:
Donnie Barnes wrote in article
n...
So, not to bore with the details of why, but I need to take the guts out
of
a set of struts from a car.

Ah, yes!

Spec. Miata requiring "stock" shocks....

No need to "bore" us with the "details...."

We have a pretty good idea.....

We currently "adjust" a lot of "stock shocks" ourselves for our oval-track
customers.

Right now, we're doing some research in the fluids area.......

Err, while you might normally be on to something, you might note that
Miatas are double wishbone cars and my original (and subsequent) posts have
been about cutting *struts*, not shocks.

Besides, the Spec Miata shocks are Bilsteins that you can take apart
without cutting. :-)


--Donnie

--
Donnie Barnes http://www.donniebarnes.com 879. V.

Rex B wrote:
Nope, the strut rods are hardened chrome, and no cutting tool will cut
that
surface. The inside is also darn hard, but can be cut with difficulty
by carbide cutters.
The chromed surface, however, can only be cut by grinding wheels or
abrasive
saw blades. The inside of the shaft is still too hard to bandsaw with
any blade
I have.


I haven't had any problem turning these once past the 'crust'.
Doesn't turn very pretty, but it's machinable for my purposes. I don't
think my HF bandsaw would have a problem cutting a de-chromed section.
but I may have to try it now.

Only if you are willing to lose a blade. I can't vouch for ALL strut
rods, but the one pair I have are pretty darn hard stuff, and it ate my
bandsaw blade in one second. I had ground below the chrome first.
I had to do all work by grinding or turning with carbide tools, and it
was quite hard on the carbide, too. I made an extension punch for an
air chisel, and use it as a "mini jackhammer" for blasting holes through
concrete walls. It does an amazing job without any attempt to harden
it, even. I do have to resharpen the point on the thing a dozen times
while making the hole, though.

Jon

On Thu, 10 Nov, Jon Elson wrote:
Only if you are willing to lose a blade. I can't vouch for ALL strut
rods, but the one pair I have are pretty darn hard stuff, and it ate my
bandsaw blade in one second. I had ground below the chrome first.
I had to do all work by grinding or turning with carbide tools, and it
was quite hard on the carbide, too. I made an extension punch for an
air chisel, and use it as a "mini jackhammer" for blasting holes through
concrete walls. It does an amazing job without any attempt to harden
it, even. I do have to resharpen the point on the thing a dozen times
while making the hole, though.

Gee, and to think I didn't think I'd have any use for those shafts when
done. :-)


--Donnie

--
Donnie Barnes http://www.donniebarnes.com 879. V.