Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill press
but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill press to
widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just deflected from
side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it will make the
holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel with one of those
small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4"
hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10 seconds before
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes on
one side?

....
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes
on one side?

The right method is an endmill in a milling machine. Bet you ain't got that.

Drill a 1/4" hole in a fairly thick piece of scrap stock. Clamp it to the
piece you want an offest hole in. Use the scrap stock as a drill bushing
guide to hold the drill on the new center. Feed slow this is hard on drill
bits.

Karl

"Fred" wrote in
:

Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill
press but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill
press to widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just
deflected from side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since
it will make the holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a
Dremel with one of those small cylindrical grinding stone attached to
a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4" hole but the grinding stone only
lasted about 10 seconds before disintegrated. So what is the right
tool/method just to widen those holes on one side?



A rattail file and a vice.


--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

In article , Fred says...

disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes on
one side?

A bridgeport and a small 1/4 inch end mill.

Either that or you need some of those bolts with the built-in
offset. :^)

If you are really, really desperate and need to do this with
a drill press, you can take another small piece of steel
plate, and drill a quarter inch hole somewhere in it. Then
clamp that existing plate and over where you want your
correct hole location to be in your workpiece. Thus forming
a crude drill jig.

Drill down through the jig and *slowly* nibble into the
side of the 'bad location' hole. The upper plate will take
the side load.

To prevent the problem from happening again, centerpunch your
hole locations in the original plate. Then pick up the punch
marks with a pilot drill and start each one.

Now's the time to go and inspect to see that the started hole
is DNO the cross hairs of your marks. If not, it's a lot
easier to 'drift' the hole at this point. Only when your're
satisfied do you drill up to the finish size.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

You don't say how much you missed by. A tapered rotary file can
probably fix your problem. A good sharp drill bit in the drill
press will deflect, but will usually let you gain a little.

Typical disclaimer:
You know you're not supposed to side load the drill press chuck,
it is not a mill. Some of us who do not own mills have been known
to do so.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Fred" wrote in message
...
Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor
drill press but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it
on my drill press to widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill
bit the bid just deflected from side pressure. I do not want to
use a larger bit since it will make the holes too large. I then
try to corrected it with a Dremel with one of those small
cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8" shaft to get in
the 1/4" hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10
seconds before disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method
just to widen those holes on one side?

They are expensive but a small carbide burr on the Dremel will last for many
holes. We often do this for holes punched in plate slightly off location.
The burr we use has a 1/4 shank and half inch diameter body.
Randy

"Fred" wrote in message
...
Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill press
but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill press to
widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just deflected from
side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it will make the
holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel with one of those
small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4"
hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10 seconds before
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes on
one side?

All replies suggested methods of moving the hole over to the proper
location. Of them, the drill jig was best. However, the OP stated he had
already drilled the hole through in the wrong location. So, any attempts to
"move" the hole over, even slightly, will enlarge the hole. That may or may
not be critical to the finished product.

A method that works well is this: Drill out the mislocated hole to the next
size machine screw tap drill diameter. Drill the tap drill hole for a
tightly fitted machine screw, say 75% threads or so. Run a bolt in the hole
and cut it off on both sides so that it stands "a fraction" proud of the
hole. Using an anvil and ball peen hammer, upset the bolt on both sides
such that it expands and locks itself well into the threads in the hole.
Now, go back and accurately lay out the center pop mark for redrilling the
hole in the right location. You don't want to repeat this procedure, do
you?

Bob Swinney





"DanG" wrote in message
news:YOt4f.4395$OM4.2008@dukeread06...
You don't say how much you missed by. A tapered rotary file can probably
fix your problem. A good sharp drill bit in the drill press will deflect,
but will usually let you gain a little.

Typical disclaimer:
You know you're not supposed to side load the drill press chuck, it is not
a mill. Some of us who do not own mills have been known to do so.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Fred" wrote in message
...
Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill
press but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill
press to widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just
deflected from side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it
will make the holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel
with one of those small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8"
shaft to get in the 1/4" hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10
seconds before disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to
widen those holes on one side?

"Robert Swinney" wrote: (clip) cut it off on both sides so that it stands
"a fraction" proud of the hole. Using an anvil and ball peen hammer, upset
the bolt on both sides such that it expands and locks itself well into the
threads in the hole. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I've never actually done this*, but it seems to me that it would be helpful
to countersink both sides also--this would give the excess metal room to
expand and form a "head" on each end.
____________________
* "Cause I never make mistrakes.

Robert Swinney wrote:
All replies suggested methods of moving the hole over to the proper
location. Of them, the drill jig was best. However, the OP stated he had
already drilled the hole through in the wrong location. So, any attempts to
"move" the hole over, even slightly, will enlarge the hole. That may or may
not be critical to the finished product.

A method that works well is this: Drill out the mislocated hole to the next
size machine screw tap drill diameter. Drill the tap drill hole for a
tightly fitted machine screw, say 75% threads or so. Run a bolt in the hole
and cut it off on both sides so that it stands "a fraction" proud of the
hole. Using an anvil and ball peen hammer, upset the bolt on both sides
such that it expands and locks itself well into the threads in the hole.
Now, go back and accurately lay out the center pop mark for redrilling the
hole in the right location. You don't want to repeat this procedure, do
you?

This sounds like the approach I'd take if I
didn't have a mill. Just be sure the screw
is mild steel and not stainless.

I've watched a real machinist handle this problem
in AL tooling plate. He bored a much larger hole,
perhaps 3/4" on the center of the correct hole, but
large enough to completely cover the area of the
wrong hole. He then made a plug of the same
material a couple thou over and pressed it in the
big hole. Then he drilled and tapped the correct
hole in the center of the plug.

As close to a perfect fix that you could get.

Get into the WayBack machine and have Mr. Peabody take you back to where
you started drilling.
Failing that, a 1/8" carbide double-cut bit in the Dremel will make
short work out of elongating one wall of the holes. Note that the torque
and climbing action of the bit will cause it to cut in a direction apx.
45° to the left of the desired path.
JR
Dweller in the cellar
Fred wrote:
Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill press
but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill press to
widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just deflected from
side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it will make the
holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel with one of those
small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4"
hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10 seconds before
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes on
one side?




--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

Anthony wrote:

"Fred" wrote in
:


Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill
press but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill
press to widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just
deflected from side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since
it will make the holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a
Dremel with one of those small cylindrical grinding stone attached to
a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4" hole but the grinding stone only
lasted about 10 seconds before disintegrated. So what is the right
tool/method just to widen those holes on one side?




A rattail file and a vice.


I second that -- it's slow, but it's much more controlled.

Next time verify the correct hole location as you drill. You should be
able to get to within 10 thou on a drillpress if you take your time
marking and center punching. You can even get a light centerpunch off
center and ease it over by careful double-punching or angled punching.
This is a skill I'm only now developing, after years of making slots to
correct poorly drilled holes.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

If I have already finished drilling the hole, I either use a round file
or decide I really could use holes that are one size larger.
Sometimes I do both. Use a round file and then drill with the next
large size drill.

To avoid getting the holes in the wrong place: First center punch
where you want the hole. If you are a little off slant the center
punch and punch some more to move the depression to the right spot.

Next start to drill the hole with a small drill the thickness of the
web of the drill for the right size. If that is off, use the file and
drill with a somewhat bigger drill untill you get the hole centered.

If you are making the holes to mount something, try using a transfer
punch to get the locations right.

For thicker material there are a few more things you can do.

Dan

"Fred" wrote in message
...
Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill
press
but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill press to
widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just deflected from
side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it will make the
holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel with one of
those
small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8" shaft to get in the
1/4"
hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10 seconds before
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes
on
one side?



When you are drilling holes that you intend to match other holes, one of the
best things you can do to help yourself is not use a center punch. Even
with a drill press, if you clamp your work and use a wiggler to locate the
cross hairs from your carefully scribed locations, you should be able to
work to less than .005" consistently, avoiding those flyers.

For what it's worth, and many will choose to argue------a center punch has
no place in the tool box of one that is considered a precision
machinist-----not unless they work with hand tools. There are other methods
that insure proper location and reduce unacceptable results-----although at
the cost of speed. Still, applying such methods are faster than doing a
project twice----or more.

I'm sure it comes as no surprise to any of us when mention is made of the
fact that drills are circular ground and relieved to minimize the amount of
metal in contact with the hole. The circular grind acts as a guide in the
hole, but lacking proper relief for side cutting, they are not well suited
for such cuts.

Harold

Fred wrote:
Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill press
but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill press to
widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just deflected from
side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it will make the
holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel with one of those
small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4"
hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10 seconds before
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes on
one side?




When I just have to move a hole a 'lil bit I grab the nearest size "Saw
Drill" from this set of three I bought from Harbor Freight:

Search for 42804 at:

http://www.harborfreight.com/

They say they're for softer metals only, but I've used 'em more than
once on mild steel and they still seem to be ok.

You just have to remember to "push" the work against them about 90
degrees from the direction you want to move the hole.

Before someone jumps me to mention "hand grenading" drill press chucks,
my 40+ year old Craftsman floor model's chuck is held on the spindle
with a threaded collar, and the bearings still feel good after all the
sideways hand loading I've given them so far. Sears made power tools
"right" back then, so there!

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

Fred wrote:
Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill press
but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill press to
widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just deflected from
side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it will make the
holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel with one of those
small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4"
hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10 seconds before
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes on
one side?



If what you have in the way of tools is Dremel-ish, try a carbide burr
in the smallest size you can lay your hands upon; no bigger than 1/8".
Your grinding stone was probably too large relative to the hole,
resulting in far too much contact area around its diameter -- CRUNCH!

With the small burr, you might try a piece of steel scrap (perhaps even
sheet metal) with a 1/4" hole in it above and aligned with where you
want the hole to be. This will help you keep the @#$#$^)(&*()!@ burr
where you want it.

--
Fred R
________________
Drop TROU to email.

Leo sez:
". . . I've never actually done this*, but it seems to me that it would be
helpful
to countersink both sides also--this would give the excess metal room to
expand and form a "head" on each end. . . ."

Countersinking would drill away metal in the center that could be better
expanded to the outside. IMO, it is better to begin striking the center
area(s) first with the ball peen, thus forcing that metal to the edges.

Bob Swinney

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"Robert Swinney" wrote: (clip) cut it off on both sides so that it stands
"a fraction" proud of the hole. Using an anvil and ball peen hammer,
upset the bolt on both sides such that it expands and locks itself well
into the threads in the hole. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
____________________
* "Cause I never make mistrakes.

Robert Swinney wrote:
Leo sez:
". . . I've never actually done this*, but it seems to me that it would be
helpful

to countersink both sides also--this would give the excess metal room to
expand and form a "head" on each end. . . ."


Countersinking would drill away metal in the center that could be better
expanded to the outside. IMO, it is better to begin striking the center
area(s) first with the ball peen, thus forcing that metal to the edges.
..snip..

uh Bob,

I think that Leo was referring to the hole what was to be filled, not
the plug material. In fact it would be a good idea, but too often the
material is so thin anyway that countersinking would be difficult to do
without opening the hole beyond all help.

As for drilling the plug material, it does make it easier to expand but
weakens the plug for exactly the reason you state.

George Vigneron

"Anthony" wrote:
"Fred" wrote:

Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill
press but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill
press to widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just
deflected from side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since
it will make the holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a
Dremel with one of those small cylindrical grinding stone attached to
a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4" hole but the grinding stone only
lasted about 10 seconds before disintegrated. So what is the right
tool/method just to widen those holes on one side?



A rattail file and a vice.

That's my machine shop.

Jon

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"Fred" wrote in message
...
Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill
press
but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill press to
widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just deflected from
side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it will make the
holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel with one of
those
small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8" shaft to get in the
1/4"
hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10 seconds before
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes
on
one side?



When you are drilling holes that you intend to match other holes, one of
the
best things you can do to help yourself is not use a center punch.
Even
with a drill press, if you clamp your work and use a wiggler to locate the
cross hairs from your carefully scribed locations, you should be able to
work to less than .005" consistently, avoiding those flyers.

For what it's worth, and many will choose to argue------a center punch has
no place in the tool box of one that is considered a precision
machinist-----not unless they work with hand tools. There are other
methods
that insure proper location and reduce unacceptable results-----although
at
the cost of speed. Still, applying such methods are faster than doing
a
project twice----or more.

I'm sure it comes as no surprise to any of us when mention is made of the
fact that drills are circular ground and relieved to minimize the amount
of
metal in contact with the hole. The circular grind acts as a guide in the
hole, but lacking proper relief for side cutting, they are not well suited
for such cuts.

Harold

Jeeze, Harold! I meant finding center before plugging the hole. You won't
find any center punches in my tool box! Ssshhhh - now if you looked
reeeaal hard, way down near the bottom, there might be an automatic center
punch. Naw! Take that back, I used to have an automatic center punch but
I gave it away to a guy that'd never even heard of one before. Now that
individual is posting frequently on RCM as an expert in the use of center
punches.

Bob Swinney

I had a need to 'move' by about 3/16" a few dozen 9/16" holes through 4-inch
structural steel channel (about 1/4" thick). I made a jig of oak that
wedged tightly in the channel using woodworking clamps and fitted it with a
couple of standard, hardened drill bushings from MSC (next day delivery).
Using a little lubricating oil, it was no problem at all to cut out those
segments using a 12-inch benchtop drill press. The holes, of course, were
left oversize but that was not a problem for the application in question.

The drill bushings protect the spindle bearings from excessive side loads,
assuming the work is rigidly clamped. Their extreme hardness minimized wear
on the drill and friction and galling that might occur with softer bushing
material.

David Merrill

"Karl Townsend" remove .NOT to reply wrote
in message nk.net...
...
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those
holes
on one side?

The right method is an endmill in a milling machine. Bet you ain't got
that.

Drill a 1/4" hole in a fairly thick piece of scrap stock. Clamp it to the
piece you want an offest hole in. Use the scrap stock as a drill bushing
guide to hold the drill on the new center. Feed slow this is hard on drill
bits.

Karl

Anthony wrote:

"Fred" wrote in
:

Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill
press but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill
press to widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just
deflected from side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since
it will make the holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a
Dremel with one of those small cylindrical grinding stone attached to
a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4" hole but the grinding stone only
lasted about 10 seconds before disintegrated. So what is the right
tool/method just to widen those holes on one side?



A rattail file and a vice.

--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email



What is the best way to catch a rat to get its tail?
I already have plenty of vices.

John

Fred wrote:

Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill press
but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill press to
widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just deflected from
side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it will make the
holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel with one of those
small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4"
hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10 seconds before
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes on
one side?


If you got a welder, drill out the hole bigger till the hole is big
enough to cover the place where you want it. Put a copper rod where you
want the hole and weld up the rest.

Then grind it smooth.


John

"john" wrote: What is the best way to catch a rat (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Just look in the file cabinet under "r."

"john" wrote: (clip) Put a copper rod where you want the hole and weld up
the rest.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
John, can you weld around a copper rod without melting it?

Leo Lichtman wrote:

"john" wrote: (clip) Put a copper rod where you want the hole and weld up
the rest.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
John, can you weld around a copper rod without melting it?


yup

Leo Lichtman wrote:

"john" wrote: (clip) Put a copper rod where you want the hole and weld up
the rest.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
John, can you weld around a copper rod without melting it?


or if you have problems use a copper tube and run water through it.

John

Yep. A few holes will remind you to do a better job of measuring in the
future.

Anthony wrote:

"Fred" wrote in
:


Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill
press but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill
press to widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just
deflected from side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since
it will make the holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a
Dremel with one of those small cylindrical grinding stone attached to
a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4" hole but the grinding stone only
lasted about 10 seconds before disintegrated. So what is the right
tool/method just to widen those holes on one side?




A rattail file and a vice.

Right way is an end mill in a mill, usual way is a rat tail file, fixing
lots of them is a special fixture with a drill bushing.

Fred wrote:

Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill press
but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill press to
widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just deflected from
side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it will make the
holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel with one of those
small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4"
hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10 seconds before
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes on
one side?

On Sun, 16 Oct 2005 05:53:42 -0700, "Fred" wrote:

Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill press
but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill press to
widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just deflected from
side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it will make the
holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel with one of those
small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4"
hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10 seconds before
disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to widen those holes on
one side?

A milling machine.

Or a die grinder with a 4 flute endmill in it. Not for the faint of
heart.....or those that are bleeders

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

"Fred" wrote in message
...
Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill
press but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill
press to widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just
deflected from side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since it
will make the holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a Dremel
with one of those small cylindrical grinding stone attached to a 1/8"
shaft to get in the 1/4" hole but the grinding stone only lasted about 10
seconds before disintegrated. So what is the right tool/method just to
widen those holes on one side?

Next time, get an optical center punch!

Anthony wrote:

"Fred" wrote in
:


Drilling 1/4" holes on a 1/8" thick mild steel plate on a floor drill
press but a few of the holes were off. Try to corrected it on my drill
press to widen the holes with the same 1/4" drill bit the bid just
deflected from side pressure. I do not want to use a larger bit since
it will make the holes too large. I then try to corrected it with a
Dremel with one of those small cylindrical grinding stone attached to
a 1/8" shaft to get in the 1/4" hole but the grinding stone only
lasted about 10 seconds before disintegrated. So what is the right
tool/method just to widen those holes on one side?




A rattail file and a vice.


Hand filing is often overlooked by people who love machines.

Clamp your work well, use a sharp file (new one if necessary), watch the
angles you use as you hold the file, and you may be amazed as to how
much control you have and how much metal you can remove in a short time.

Rich

Rich wrote in
:


Hand filing is often overlooked by people who love machines.

Clamp your work well, use a sharp file (new one if necessary), watch
the angles you use as you hold the file, and you may be amazed as to
how much control you have and how much metal you can remove in a short
time.

Rich


And how much time you can save...

--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email