Yowza... Not a big problem for me as we have a work around... But I sure
could use a better process... So...

Some of my multiple spindle heads have small needle bearings installed to
support the shafts laterally while they drill vertically... Some of these
are as small as .250" ID up to around .400" ID.

Most are installed in aluminum and steel blind holes with no way of pushing
them out from behind.

Anyone know of a tool or method of removing these without damaging the
housing (esp. aluminum) that they are mounted in?

In some cases, they are double stacked and are of either the same size or
two sizes - larger ID and OD unit on top of a smaller one in a blind hole
below, etc. When stacked, they have thrust bearings between or a step in
the housing if thrust is not an issue.

Any ideas, assistance, etc would be greatly appreciated. ...Especially if
it is a tool or manual process rather than EDM, etc.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
(908) 542-0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
Yowza... Not a big problem for me as we have a work around... But I sure
could use a better process... So...

Some of my multiple spindle heads have small needle bearings installed to
support the shafts laterally while they drill vertically... Some of these
are as small as .250" ID up to around .400" ID.

Most are installed in aluminum and steel blind holes with no way of pushing
them out from behind.

Anyone know of a tool or method of removing these without damaging the
housing (esp. aluminum) that they are mounted in?

In some cases, they are double stacked and are of either the same size or
two sizes - larger ID and OD unit on top of a smaller one in a blind hole
below, etc. When stacked, they have thrust bearings between or a step in
the housing if thrust is not an issue.

Any ideas, assistance, etc would be greatly appreciated. ...Especially if
it is a tool or manual process rather than EDM, etc.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
Joe, I used to have a similar problem with brass bushings in pumps, the
bushings would be at the bottom of a blind hole. We used to put about
1/2" of oil(or grease) in the hole and use a piece of round stock that
fil ID of the bushing. After filling the hole and inserting the round
stock we would hit the round stock with a hammer, driving the oil to the
bottom of the hole, which would cause the bushing to lift a little. It
usually took 4 or 5 attempts and the bushing would lift enought that we
could use a modified gear puller to remove the bushing. I don't know if
this would work for you, but it might be worth a try.

Greg

Greg Postma wrote:
Joe AutoDrill wrote:

Yowza... Not a big problem for me as we have a work around... But I
sure could use a better process... So...

Some of my multiple spindle heads have small needle bearings installed
to support the shafts laterally while they drill vertically... Some of
these are as small as .250" ID up to around .400" ID.

Most are installed in aluminum and steel blind holes with no way of
pushing them out from behind.

Anyone know of a tool or method of removing these without damaging the
housing (esp. aluminum) that they are mounted in?

In some cases, they are double stacked and are of either the same size
or two sizes - larger ID and OD unit on top of a smaller one in a
blind hole below, etc. When stacked, they have thrust bearings
between or a step in the housing if thrust is not an issue.

Any ideas, assistance, etc would be greatly appreciated.
...Especially if it is a tool or manual process rather than EDM, etc.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.

Joe, I used to have a similar problem with brass bushings in pumps, the
bushings would be at the bottom of a blind hole. We used to put about
1/2" of oil(or grease) in the hole and use a piece of round stock that
fil ID of the bushing. After filling the hole and inserting the round
stock we would hit the round stock with a hammer, driving the oil to the
bottom of the hole, which would cause the bushing to lift a little. It
usually took 4 or 5 attempts and the bushing would lift enought that we
could use a modified gear puller to remove the bushing. I don't know if
this would work for you, but it might be worth a try.

That's a great technique I've used many times, but it doesn't work for
needle bearings, unless they have an inner race (rare) and are sealed.
The grease just comes right out (in your face) between the rollers.
One possibilible variation might be to turn a punch to the correct
diameter to fit the ID. Then relieve the diameter from the business end
to double the thickness of the target bearing. Fit a sleeve of some sort
of plastic or silicone that can conform to the needle bearings enough to
seal it.
For the larger bearings, you might even be able to use a tube with an
oversleeve to seal the OD to the needle bearing. Fit a plunger to the ID
and use that to pump the grease.
Beyond that, the only thing I know of is a slidehammer.

Don't know if it's useful to this discussion, but I have seen equipment
with dowels and sealed bearings in blind holes, that have a drilled port
to the backside of the recess. That port is threaded for a grease zerk
for extraction purposes.

That's a great technique I've used many times, but it doesn't work for
needle bearings, unless they have an inner race (rare) and are sealed.

Agreed. Great technique and idea... But ours look sorta like this:

http://www.mfgsupply.com/img/rotary/29-2949.jpg

What I had in mind was a reverse puller "thing" that spreads out inside the
needle bearing with "hooks" under it somehow... But no such animal exists
that I'm aware of.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
(908) 542-0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 16:55:25 GMT, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

That's a great technique I've used many times, but it doesn't work for
needle bearings, unless they have an inner race (rare) and are sealed.

Agreed. Great technique and idea... But ours look sorta like this:

http://www.mfgsupply.com/img/rotary/29-2949.jpg

What I had in mind was a reverse puller "thing" that spreads out inside the
needle bearing with "hooks" under it somehow... But no such animal exists
that I'm aware of.

They exist but you do have to look for them. I've got a larger
version of what you need in the shop.

I'll try to explain with text though this where a picture is worth a
thousand words.

Start with a piece of round stock the size of the hole you're going
into (actually it could be larger and just turned down to that size on
the end). Turn a "hook" on the end by going undersized a little before
the end. Drill a hole through it lengthwise for a the expander. Slit
the hook end in 2 or 4 segments. Make a tapered expander bolt to go in
the hole of the first. When tightened the taper will force the hooks
out to get a grip.

For the pulling part you've got several options. Either attach it to
a slide hammer or thread the outside and using a nut, washer, and
piece of pipe to do the pulling. More sophisticated is to use a hollow
ram porta power cylinder for the pulling (shouldn't be needed here).

If the above doesn't get the idea across I'll try to get some pics so
that you can understand.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm

In article , Wayne Cook says...

Start with a piece of round stock the size of the hole you're going
into (actually it could be larger and just turned down to that size on
the end). Turn a "hook" on the end by going undersized a little before
the end. Drill a hole through it lengthwise for a the expander. Slit
the hook end in 2 or 4 segments. Make a tapered expander bolt to go in
the hole of the first. When tightened the taper will force the hooks
out to get a grip.

I think snap-on actually sells those bearing extractors like that,
for getting in behind blind races or bearings. But for a one-off
like this, a home-made on works pretty well, I've done this.

The step should have a square edge if there's a bit of room behind
the bearing to hook in - if it's *really* blind then you have to
rely on the chamfer on the bearing OD to give some purchase, in
which case a pointy, 45 degree per side, edge seems to work best.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

If the above doesn't get the idea across I'll try to get some pics so
that you can understand.

Over in the CNC group, someone posted a part number which led me to this:

http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/detail.php3?id=252

If I can find one that goes a bit smaller, I'm all set! ...And so the
search continues.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
(908) 542-0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 18:34:51 GMT, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

If the above doesn't get the idea across I'll try to get some pics so
that you can understand.

Over in the CNC group, someone posted a part number which led me to this:

http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/detail.php3?id=252

If I can find one that goes a bit smaller, I'm all set! ...And so the
search continues.


What's this. Are you trying to sully this groups operating principle
of "It's better make a tool than buy one even if it cost's 10 times as
much."

:-)

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm

If you have any room behind the bearing you might be able to use a
pilot bearing puller with a slide hammmer.

If the aluminum housings are free of the rest of the assembly you can
pour boiling water over the housing and the bearings will pretty much
fall out. You might have to tap the housing a bit but it works
reliably.

Cheers,

Kelley

On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 16:55:25 GMT, "Joe AutoDrill"
wrote:

That's a great technique I've used many times, but it doesn't work for
needle bearings, unless they have an inner race (rare) and are sealed.

Agreed. Great technique and idea... But ours look sorta like this:

http://www.mfgsupply.com/img/rotary/29-2949.jpg

What I had in mind was a reverse puller "thing" that spreads out inside the
needle bearing with "hooks" under it somehow... But no such animal exists
that I'm aware of.

What's this. Are you trying to sully this groups operating principle
of "It's better make a tool than buy one even if it cost's 10 times as
much."

Sorta. I'm not as strong of a subscriber to the idea of false economy as
some are.

:-)

Oh, sorry... :-) :-)
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
(908) 542-0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

"Greg Postma" wrote in message
...
Joe, I used to have a similar problem with brass bushings in pumps, the
bushings would be at the bottom of a blind hole. We used to put about
1/2" of oil(or grease) in the hole and use a piece of round stock that
fil ID of the bushing. After filling the hole and inserting the round
stock we would hit the round stock with a hammer, driving the oil to the
bottom of the hole, which would cause the bushing to lift a little. It
usually took 4 or 5 attempts and the bushing would lift enought that we
could use a modified gear puller to remove the bushing. I don't know if
this would work for you, but it might be worth a try.

That is the trick I use when changing the pilot bearing while doing a clutch
job.

It works good!

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

Try going to Motion industries or some other bearing house and they should
be able to sell you a puller.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.


"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
news:f7e1f.10431$WD5.6960@trndny06...
If the above doesn't get the idea across I'll try to get some pics so
that you can understand.

Over in the CNC group, someone posted a part number which led me to this:

http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/detail.php3?id=252

If I can find one that goes a bit smaller, I'm all set! ...And so the
search continues.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
(908) 542-0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

That's a great technique I've used many times, but it doesn't work for
needle bearings, unless they have an inner race (rare) and are sealed.

Agreed. Great technique and idea... But ours look sorta like this:

http://www.mfgsupply.com/img/rotary/29-2949.jpg

What I had in mind was a reverse puller "thing" that spreads out inside the
needle bearing with "hooks" under it somehow... But no such animal exists
that I'm aware of.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
(908) 542-0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R



Joe,
You may be able to turn a shaft to "just fit" down inside the
bearings, but then turn down that diameter a bit more but leave a
ridge on the very end. Split the shaft on the end, bore it out from
the backside and make sort of an expanding mandrel with a ridge on the
very end which will "hook" onto the case of the bearing. You could
even get "fancy" and make the ring sharpened on the outside diameter
so it would wedge itself between the bottom of the hole and the
"frame" of the bearing. HTH
Ken.

Start with a "Dyna Bolt" or similar brand concrete anchor bolt. These are
available in a range of sizes that will suit the inside diameters you
mentioned, so select one that will just fit inside your bearing. I'm
assuming that the bearings are to be removed as they are worn out so you
don't need to re-use the original bearings. This can also work on bushes or
ball bearings.

Drop the bolt down the hole and tighten just enough to catch the bearing
below the edge and pull out the bolt. If you want to get fancy you could
turn a groove on the bolt's expanding case so it catches the end of the
bearing easier. You may need to use a selection of washers or pipe off-cuts
to suit the outside diameter or shape of your housings.

Once the partly expanded bolt has a catch on the bearing, a slide hammer, or
a lever can be used to apply the removing force. One lever I have used was a
3 foot length of steel pipe with an oversize hole drilled through it about 6
inches from the end and this was under the nut. You could find a small block
of wood to protect the aluminium housing from marking.

The cost of the concrete bolts is far lower than the replacement bearings
and can be considered as expendable, but can often be re-used for concrete
application later.

Hope this helps,
Peter


"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
news:boa1f.2742$gL5.2229@trndny08...
Yowza... Not a big problem for me as we have a work around... But I sure
could use a better process... So...

Some of my multiple spindle heads have small needle bearings installed to
support the shafts laterally while they drill vertically... Some of these
are as small as .250" ID up to around .400" ID.

Most are installed in aluminum and steel blind holes with no way of
pushing
them out from behind.

Anyone know of a tool or method of removing these without damaging the
housing (esp. aluminum) that they are mounted in?

In some cases, they are double stacked and are of either the same size or
two sizes - larger ID and OD unit on top of a smaller one in a blind hole
below, etc. When stacked, they have thrust bearings between or a step in
the housing if thrust is not an issue.

Any ideas, assistance, etc would be greatly appreciated. ...Especially if
it is a tool or manual process rather than EDM, etc.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
(908) 542-0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com

V8013-R

Rex B wrote in :

That's a great technique I've used many times, but it doesn't work for
needle bearings, unless they have an inner race (rare) and are sealed.
The grease just comes right out (in your face) between the rollers.

Packing with grease will work on needle bearings, not in one shot, but it
does work.

Find the closest fitting shaft, biggest hammer you can comfortably swing,
and thickest grease you have. Use a good cloth shop towel around the hand
holding the shaft, as the grease will shoot out at very dangerous
velocity, you dont want to get your eyes or anything tender near there.
It may take a dozen or more times of repacking the grease just for one
hit, but it will come out eventually.

One possibilible variation might be to turn a punch to the correct
diameter to fit the ID. Then relieve the diameter from the business
end to double the thickness of the target bearing. Fit a sleeve of
some sort of plastic or silicone that can conform to the needle
bearings enough to
seal it.
For the larger bearings, you might even be able to use a tube with
an
oversleeve to seal the OD to the needle bearing. Fit a plunger to the
ID and use that to pump the grease.
Beyond that, the only thing I know of is a slidehammer.


The more of the hole you can seal the better, but as long as you cant
bottom out the driver too easily, it will transfer energy into the
bearing.

Don't know if it's useful to this discussion, but I have seen
equipment with dowels and sealed bearings in blind holes, that have a
drilled port to the backside of the recess. That port is threaded for
a grease zerk for extraction purposes.


Same principle, but you really need a fresh zerk fitting and coupler on
the grease gun or the leakage will kill you. Most of the
bearings/bushings I drive out with this method are larger then my grease
gun piston.

Jeff