I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job. I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation: crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings must
be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old) foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them
and leave them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

For any quantity of concrete don't even think about mixing it yourself. It
is not just the backbreaking work, it is the quality, consistancy, and time
do do it in batches when a pour should be continuous.

There are alternatives to block and the usual plywood form. Look into using
insulating concrete forms (ICFs) for at least he foundation if nt for the
entire wall. It can be done yourself. Check out www.polysteel.com
www.integraspec.com www.reddiform.com www.standardicf.com

Be sure to get up to speed on all the newer engineered wood products
available. Not to mention al hte ohter building materials that simplify
building.
Ed

In article , Alexander Galkin
wrote:

€ Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it?

If your time has value, you will be ahead to hire pros.

If your time has no value, how will you pay for materials?

In any case, the first thing you need is a design, from a licensed,
local architect.

Best of luck, and let us know how it comes out!

--
Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
(206) 523-9500 www.phoenixhomesinc.com

Alexander Galkin wrote:
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job. I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation: crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings must
be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old) foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.


Hi,
6 feet wide? That is really narrow!
Would feel like tunnel.
Tony

First thing to check is if you can submit the plans for the addition
yourself (many states allow this under an owner builder provision) or if
you're required to have an architect or contractor stamp them. Unless you
are in the sticks you probably will be required to have a structural
engineer look over and stamp your plans. Also if you're putting in any
electrical (probably are) you need to see if based upon the size of your
addition, if you will trigger redoing the smoke detectors in your main house
as they are probably not all interwired together with building power and
battery backup. If you are adding over a certain % of space onto your house
usually you have to retrofit the smoke detectors in the entire building.

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to
pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to
do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job. I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation: crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the
floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

You're going to have to talk to local subcontractors to get their rates,
they vary widely. Typically excavators charge by the hour.


2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings
must
be dug 3 ft at least.

Concrete and steel in most areas of the country has gone up considerably
(steel 3x) in the past year and so the cost difference is probably more than
you would expect.


3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old) foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

My guess is, if the building codes are anything like in Nevada, you're
basically going to build what the structural engineer tells you to build,
unless you want to "upgrade" beyond what the engineer requires.


4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)

I definitely wouldn't be mixing concrete myself, that's not worth hassle,
but you may be able to build footing forms and rebar, but the issue is you
better be able to lay the forms out completely square and level. Most
contractors are using laser levels for this nowdays and not the cheap $50
ones from sears.


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting
my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical
and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

The addition itself will add no separate rooms but instead will extend
kitchen, bathroom and office. 6 ft extension towards backyard is pretty much
what I need.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
news:r9csd.408099$Pl.79232@pd7tw1no...
Alexander Galkin wrote:
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is
actually extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The
addition will be 50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can
myself leaving to pro only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot
do or make no sense to do myself. I have moderate experience in framing,
plumbing, electrical, insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power
tools to do the job. I do not have any experience in building foundation
or putting joist-beam floor system. I am weighing two options for the
addition foundation: crawl space and full basement. Here I have several
questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the
floor with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings
must be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old)
foundation is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar
reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to
do some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them
and leave them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and
build footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have
limited experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after
installing underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting
my Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing,
electrical and internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.
Hi,
6 feet wide? That is really narrow!
Would feel like tunnel.
Tony

I know I need a licensed architect to calculate the load, size and type of
headers, etc. I already talked briefly to an architect and also to a
building inspector while he was inspecting my other project. So when I will
be applying for a permit I will have my plans reviewed and sealed by
architect. Regarding electrical I have new 150 A service panel in my house
and I will be completely upgrading wiring in kitchen, bath and office that
the addition extends. It does not add any separate rooms so I don't think I
need more smoke and CO detectors then I already have. They all but one in
basement and battery powered and not interconnected. Fire inspection was
passed OK.

"Jeff Smith" wrote in message
news:QLfsd.188947$G15.84425@fed1read03...
First thing to check is if you can submit the plans for the addition
yourself (many states allow this under an owner builder provision) or if
you're required to have an architect or contractor stamp them. Unless you
are in the sticks you probably will be required to have a structural
engineer look over and stamp your plans. Also if you're putting in any
electrical (probably are) you need to see if based upon the size of your
addition, if you will trigger redoing the smoke detectors in your main
house
as they are probably not all interwired together with building power and
battery backup. If you are adding over a certain % of space onto your
house
usually you have to retrofit the smoke detectors in the entire building.

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is
actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will
be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to
pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to
do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job.
I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation:
crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the
floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

You're going to have to talk to local subcontractors to get their rates,
they vary widely. Typically excavators charge by the hour.


2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings
must
be dug 3 ft at least.

Concrete and steel in most areas of the country has gone up considerably
(steel 3x) in the past year and so the cost difference is probably more
than
you would expect.


3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old)
foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

My guess is, if the building codes are anything like in Nevada, you're
basically going to build what the structural engineer tells you to build,
unless you want to "upgrade" beyond what the engineer requires.


4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to
do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and
build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have
limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)

I definitely wouldn't be mixing concrete myself, that's not worth hassle,
but you may be able to build footing forms and rebar, but the issue is you
better be able to lay the forms out completely square and level. Most
contractors are using laser levels for this nowdays and not the cheap $50
ones from sears.


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting
my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical
and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message ...
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job. I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation: crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings must
be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old) foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

That's a lot of work for an extra six feet!
Have you checked with zoning and the building department?
Have you worked out the structural requirements for openings in the
existing wall?
Is there room to move equipment from the street to the back of the
house?
Is there enough vertical distance to fit a roof below the second story
window sills?
Do the existing mechanical & electrical systems have capacity for the
addition?
If the existing basement wall is unreinforced, how is the new wall to
be tied to it?

The cost of excavation has to include digging next to an existing
unreinforced wall without colapsing it; excavating one large enough to
accomodate working room and the angle of repose of the earch;
disposing of the extra earth.

There is more that needs to be taken into account before begining and
the cost to design the work will be no less than for a much larger
addition, since there are some things that must always be done.

Tom Baker

My time does have value. And although I earned 3 times more then an average
tradesmen annually their per hour rate (this is what actually you are paying
them) exceeds probably that of some CEOs. In area where I live it is just
astronomical. Initially I wanted to hire a contractor to install a sewage
ejector pump and change plumbing in my basement when I was building a
basement bath. I called several plumbers to get quotes. One said that job
was too tough and refused even to consider it. Other gave quotes around
$5500. I was shocked. Finally, having no prior plumbing experience but very
good understanding what and how to do I did everything myself in three days.
I did though made one mistake found by a plumbing inspector and that took me
one more day to correct. cost of material was about $200. Besides obvious
economic benefits of doing myself there are two others that other people my
not share. First I really like building, I enjoy it. Second I hate so much
to deal with contractors. I had very little experience with contractors and
almost all of it is negative. I would rather learn to do and then do
something myself then spend time calling several tradesmen, collecting
quotes, bargaining with them, supervising them, etc.

"Lyle B. Harwood" wrote in message
nc.com...
In article , Alexander Galkin
wrote:

? Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it?

If your time has value, you will be ahead to hire pros.

If your time has no value, how will you pay for materials?

In any case, the first thing you need is a design, from a licensed,
local architect.

Best of luck, and let us know how it comes out!

--
Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
(206) 523-9500 www.phoenixhomesinc.com

First of all thank you for your response.

See below my answers to your questions.

"Tom Baker" wrote in message
om...
"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is
actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will
be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to
pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to
do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job.
I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation:
crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the
floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings
must
be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old)
foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to
do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and
build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have
limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting
my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical
and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

That's a lot of work for an extra six feet!

I need six feet to extend kitchen and office. I don't need anything more as
I don't want to reduce my backyard by building larger addition.

Have you checked with zoning and the building department?

No I have not applied for a permit yet and my project is in early planning
stage. That's why I posted my questions here. Depending on what part of it I
will be doing myself I will plan and budget accordingly. I did though speak
to a building inspector while he was inspecting my other project. I don't
beleive zoning department will have any issues with my plans.

Have you worked out the structural requirements for openings in the
existing wall?

Not yet. I plan to consult and get my plans signed by a lisensed architect
before applying for a permit.

Is there room to move equipment from the street to the back of the
house?

I can remove part of the fence that separates back yard from front yard to
allow excavator and other equiptment and materials to be moved from driveway
to backyard working site. At the same time I want all job to be done as
carefully as possible. I don't want entire backyard to be turned upside
down. Especially I worry about centures old oaks on my backyard. Although
all trees are not in close proximity to the potential building zone I don't
want to take chances. Do you have some advise what I should do to make as
little damage to backyard as possible? I have no idea what type of excavator
is needed. I also don't know how concrete is delivered and poured for the
footings. I know there are concrete deliveries with pump that allow to pump
concrete for the structure on backyard while truck is standing on driveway.
But since that amount of concrete for the footings is relatively small
hiring a concrete pump truck might be very expensive. That's why I asked it
if it feasible to rent gas powered concrete mixer (my local HD has one). I
can then have coarse aggregate, cement and sand deliverd and dumped on
driveway. I also leaning to building walls using cinder blocks as they also
can be dumped on driveway and I can move them to the work site later.

Is there enough vertical distance to fit a roof below the second story
window sills?

Yes. Actually, the shed roof I am palnning will have the same pitch as my
house roof for the six foot wall extension.

Do the existing mechanical & electrical systems have capacity for the
addition?

I don't understand what "mechanical" means. I do intend to replace all
wiring for the kitchen, bath and office that will be extended. The bath will
also be completely renovated and its plumbing will be fully replaced.

If the existing basement wall is unreinforced, how is the new wall to
be tied to it?

I talked to a building inpector and also read in books. Holes will be driled
in existing foundation and rebar will be inserted in to them where addition
foundation attaches to existing foundation. I do plan to rebar reinforce
footings and foundation walls regardles of how they will be built. I also
plan to waterproof the addition foundation if it will have full basement but
I didn't think yet on waterproofing method.


The cost of excavation has to include digging next to an existing
unreinforced wall without colapsing it; excavating one large enough to
accomodate working room and the angle of repose of the earch;
disposing of the extra earth.

I understand that. Excavating will be done by a pro.


There is more that needs to be taken into account before begining and
the cost to design the work will be no less than for a much larger
addition, since there are some things that must always be done.

Tom Baker

In a previous post Alexander Galkin says...
So when I will
be applying for a permit I will have my plans reviewed and sealed by
architect.


In most states this is illegal. Most states require the plans to be
prepared under the "direct supervision" of the design professional.
Direct supervision is usually defined as "in the design professional's
office".

--
Bob Morrison
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA

One important ingredient was left out of your original post, Alexander:

Why would you (or most anyone else) want a six-foot wide by fifty-foot long
basement, whether cost effective vs crawl space or not? That is really the
basis of your problem.

Off hand, I'd say, it might be good for coal storage (if you ever have a use
for that much, if any, coal) or a very narrow, indoor lap pool (for lapping
underwater) or maybe a cistern or root cellar . . . but now I'm getting too
practical to be plain silly. Off hand, I'd go with a crawl space, just
because the basement isn't likely to be cost effective regardless of the
likely usefulness.

Jim

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to
pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to
do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job. I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation: crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the
floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings
must
be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old) foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting
my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical
and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

I want to build a sauna in the additional basement space. 6 ft wide is
enough for that.

"lazenby" wrote in message
...
One important ingredient was left out of your original post, Alexander:

Why would you (or most anyone else) want a six-foot wide by fifty-foot
long
basement, whether cost effective vs crawl space or not? That is really
the
basis of your problem.

Off hand, I'd say, it might be good for coal storage (if you ever have a
use
for that much, if any, coal) or a very narrow, indoor lap pool (for
lapping
underwater) or maybe a cistern or root cellar . . . but now I'm getting
too
practical to be plain silly. Off hand, I'd go with a crawl space, just
because the basement isn't likely to be cost effective regardless of the
likely usefulness.

Jim

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is
actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will
be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to
pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to
do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job.
I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation:
crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the
floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings
must
be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old)
foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to
do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and
build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have
limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting
my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical
and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

Fifty feet long! I wasn't being silly after all. A sauna lap pool.

Saunas are a good thing! Why not put it on the grade level addition?
No need to hide it.

Jim


"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I want to build a sauna in the additional basement space. 6 ft wide is
enough for that.

"lazenby" wrote in message
...
One important ingredient was left out of your original post, Alexander:

Why would you (or most anyone else) want a six-foot wide by fifty-foot
long
basement, whether cost effective vs crawl space or not? That is really
the
basis of your problem.

Off hand, I'd say, it might be good for coal storage (if you ever have a
use
for that much, if any, coal) or a very narrow, indoor lap pool (for
lapping
underwater) or maybe a cistern or root cellar . . . but now I'm getting
too
practical to be plain silly. Off hand, I'd go with a crawl space, just
because the basement isn't likely to be cost effective regardless of the
likely usefulness.

Jim

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is
actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will
be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving
to
pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense
to
do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the
job.
I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation:
crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft
addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the
floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings
must
be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old)
foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to
do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and
leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and
build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have
limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after
installing
underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over
enlisting
my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing,
electrical
and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

Building inspector explained to me that structural changes must be approved
and signed by a licensed architect. Who prepared them does not matter. I
also happen to have a brother-in-law who is a licensed architect though not
in my state.

"Bob Morrison" wrote in message
k.net...
In a previous post Alexander Galkin says...
So when I will
be applying for a permit I will have my plans reviewed and sealed by
architect.


In most states this is illegal. Most states require the plans to be
prepared under the "direct supervision" of the design professional.
Direct supervision is usually defined as "in the design professional's
office".

--
Bob Morrison
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA

"lazenby" wrote in message
...
One important ingredient was left out of your original post, Alexander:

Why would you (or most anyone else) want a six-foot wide by fifty-foot
long
basement, whether cost effective vs crawl space or not?

But the basement is right nest to the existing basement. I'vd love to have
the extra 300 sq. ft. of storage! Cut the existing foundation for access.
Not a big deal in the scheme of things.

On 12/4/2004 12:16 PM US(ET), lazenby took fingers to keys, and typed
the following:

One important ingredient was left out of your original post, Alexander:

Why would you (or most anyone else) want a six-foot wide by fifty-foot long
basement, whether cost effective vs crawl space or not? That is really the
basis of your problem.

Off hand, I'd say, it might be good for coal storage (if you ever have a use
for that much, if any, coal) or a very narrow, indoor lap pool (for lapping
underwater) or maybe a cistern or root cellar . . . but now I'm getting too
practical to be plain silly. Off hand, I'd go with a crawl space, just
because the basement isn't likely to be cost effective regardless of the
likely usefulness.


I could use a 6' extension on my basement. It seems we accumulate more
'stuff' than we get rid of, therefore, additional storage space is
always welcome.
Where I live, the footings have to be 48" deep. Another 48" added on is
no big deal.

Jim

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...


I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to


pro


only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to


do


myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job. I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation: crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the


floor


with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings


must


be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old) foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the


following


foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting


my


Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical


and


internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

I didn't read every word of every reply, but let me add that it will be
difficult to divvy up jobs and sub-jobs between yourself and a contractor
because a contractor usually doesn't want to take over from a DIYer and for
good reason, and often doesn't want to take over from another contractor.
So, what you CAN do yourself still might not be practical.
-B (contractor who has been burned by taking over somebody else's mess)

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to
pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to
do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job. I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation: crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the
floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings
must
be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old) foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting
my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical
and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

In a previous post Alexander Galkin says...
Building inspector explained to me that structural changes must be approved
and signed by a licensed architect. Who prepared them does not matter.


Alexander:

I don't know what state you are located in, but the building inspector
is not the last word on this issue. In fact, most don't know enough
about the state licensing laws and minimum design procedures to put in a
teacup. Ever heard of trying to do a "lateral analyst of one wall of
new addition". Patently ridiculous! Yet, that was the comment from the
building inspector.

I would NEVER put my seal on a set of drawings prepared by the owner.
That's a good way to lose one's license.

--
Bob Morrison
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA

I am not going to build 50 ft long sauna. I plan to build sauna in part of
new basement space if the cost of building basement is not considerably
higher then building a crawl space. 6 ft wide is enough for sauna I want to
build. I have now problem using rest of the space for storage.

"lazenby" wrote in message
...
Fifty feet long! I wasn't being silly after all. A sauna lap pool.

Saunas are a good thing! Why not put it on the grade level addition?
No need to hide it.

Jim


"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I want to build a sauna in the additional basement space. 6 ft wide is
enough for that.

"lazenby" wrote in message
...
One important ingredient was left out of your original post, Alexander:

Why would you (or most anyone else) want a six-foot wide by fifty-foot
long
basement, whether cost effective vs crawl space or not? That is really
the
basis of your problem.

Off hand, I'd say, it might be good for coal storage (if you ever have
a
use
for that much, if any, coal) or a very narrow, indoor lap pool (for
lapping
underwater) or maybe a cistern or root cellar . . . but now I'm getting
too
practical to be plain silly. Off hand, I'd go with a crawl space, just
because the basement isn't likely to be cost effective regardless of
the
likely usefulness.

Jim

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is
actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition
will
be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving
to
pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense
to
do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the
job.
I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting
joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation:
crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft
addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the
floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement
vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the
footings
must
be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old)
foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying
to
do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and
leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and
build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have
limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after
installing
underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over
enlisting
my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing,
electrical
and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

I understand that. However, I do not see why problems may arise if one
contractor will excavate, I will build footing forms, another pour footings
and the third contractor will build basement walls. I saw a TV show when a
homeowner put chicken wire and then contractor applied stucco.

"B" wrote in message
. com...
I didn't read every word of every reply, but let me add that it will be
difficult to divvy up jobs and sub-jobs between yourself and a contractor
because a contractor usually doesn't want to take over from a DIYer and
for
good reason, and often doesn't want to take over from another contractor.
So, what you CAN do yourself still might not be practical.
-B (contractor who has been burned by taking over somebody else's mess)

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is
actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will
be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to
pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to
do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job.
I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation:
crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:

1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the
floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.

2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings
must
be dug 3 ft at least.

3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old)
foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.

4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to
do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:

- building footing forms and put rebar in them

- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and
build
footings myself

- building foundation walls using cinder blocks

Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have
limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)


I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting
my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical
and
internal finish.

Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.

"Lyle B. Harwood" wrote in message
nc.com...
In article , Alexander Galkin
wrote:

? Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it?

If your time has value, you will be ahead to hire pros.

If your time has no value, how will you pay for materials?

In any case, the first thing you need is a design, from a licensed,
local architect.

I doubt I'm the only one that sees this, but you never post anything of
value and you always piggyback on someone else's response. Just like that
little dog that follows the big bulldog. "Hey, hey, hey Spike! Get 'em
Spike, get 'em!" Also, just do everyone a favor and try not to be the
moderator of the NG.

In article , Alexander Galkin
wrote:

€ Second I hate so much to deal with contractors. I had very little
€ experience with contractors and almost all of it is negative. I would
€ rather learn to do and then do something myself then spend time
€ calling several tradesmen, collecting quotes, bargaining with them,
€ supervising them, etc.

Best of luck, and let us know how it comes out!

--
Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
(206) 523-9500 www.phoenixhomesinc.com

In article , Alexander Galkin
wrote:

€ However, I do not see why problems may arise if one contractor will
€ excavate, I will build footing forms, another pour footings and the
€ third contractor will build basement walls.

You will.

Best of luck, and let us know how it comes out!

--
Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
(206) 523-9500 www.phoenixhomesinc.com

I'm sure to get a lot of negative responses for this, but here goes:

Go to the library and read every book you can on residential construction.
Rent the excavation equipment and do everything yourself. Have a licensed
engineer draw and stamp the prints and ask him about any code questions you
may have. I built my own ~3600 sqft house. I did everything on it and 95% of
my knowledge came from the local library and questions posed to the local
building officials and engineer. The inspector never came back twice for the
same inspection. I spent ~$165k for materials and land. I sold it a year
later for $227k. The equity I made was well worth the late nights and
weekends.

Residential construction is one of the easier trades. If you have a small to
moderate amount of common sense, can read and understand codes written to a
9th grade level, and remember most of your high school math, you'll have no
problems.

Biggest thing of all is be prepared and organized prior to starting the
project and you'll do ok.

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
snip

The cost of excavation has to include digging next to an existing
unreinforced wall without colapsing it; excavating one large enough to
accomodate working room and the angle of repose of the earch;
disposing of the extra earth.

I understand that. Excavating will be done by a pro.

I could be wrong, but you shouldn't have any problems with collapsing the
existing foundation. Once the subfloor is in, which yours has been for ~50
years, an effective box is created. That's why it's normally advised to not
backfill until the subfloor is installed. Just don't hit the wall with the
hoe.

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I want to build a sauna in the additional basement space. 6 ft wide is
enough for that.

Do you mean 50 ft wide and 6 ft long/deep?

"John" wrote in message
...
"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
snip

The cost of excavation has to include digging next to an existing
unreinforced wall without colapsing it; excavating one large enough to
accomodate working room and the angle of repose of the earch;
disposing of the extra earth.

I understand that. Excavating will be done by a pro.

I could be wrong, but you shouldn't have any problems with collapsing the
existing foundation. Once the subfloor is in, which yours has been for ~50
years, an effective box is created. That's why it's normally advised to
not
backfill until the subfloor is installed. Just don't hit the wall with the
hoe.


In large commercial buildings, excavation next to an existing foundation is
a very touchy (and expensive) endeavor, and involves some serious inspection
(before and after) and monitoring of the existing structure. I can't imagine
it being such a casual job on a residence but I could be wrong.

JTMcC.

On 12/5/2004 1:48 AM US(ET), John took fingers to keys, and typed the
following:

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...


snip





The cost of excavation has to include digging next to an existing
unreinforced wall without colapsing it; excavating one large enough to
accomodate working room and the angle of repose of the earch;
disposing of the extra earth.


I understand that. Excavating will be done by a pro.



I could be wrong, but you shouldn't have any problems with collapsing the
existing foundation. Once the subfloor is in, which yours has been for ~50
years, an effective box is created. That's why it's normally advised to not
backfill until the subfloor is installed. Just don't hit the wall with the
hoe.

What about the current joist ends and exterior walls that rely upon the
existing foundation for support?

"willshak" wrote in message
...
On 12/5/2004 1:48 AM US(ET), John took fingers to keys, and typed the
following:

"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...


snip





The cost of excavation has to include digging next to an existing
unreinforced wall without colapsing it; excavating one large enough to
accomodate working room and the angle of repose of the earch;
disposing of the extra earth.


I understand that. Excavating will be done by a pro.



I could be wrong, but you shouldn't have any problems with collapsing the
existing foundation. Once the subfloor is in, which yours has been for
~50
years, an effective box is created. That's why it's normally advised to
not
backfill until the subfloor is installed. Just don't hit the wall with
the
hoe.

What about the current joist ends and exterior walls that rely upon the
existing foundation for support?

We're only at the excavation point in this thread.

In article , JTMcC
wrote:

€ n large commercial buildings, excavation next to an existing foundation is
€ a very touchy (and expensive) endeavor, and involves some serious inspection
€ (before and after) and monitoring of the existing structure. I can't imagine
€ it being such a casual job on a residence but I could be wrong.

In my experience, all here in Seattle, with commercial the issue is the
duty to maintain horizontal support to an adjacent property- the
doctrine called "late support".

In my experience with residential, the units are usually free standing,
far enough apart and shallow enough that there isn't significant danger
of removing horizontal support.

Obviously, exceptions occur on hills and in medium density multi
family, and in those cases your statements are absolutely correct, but
for the most part, in many Seattle neighborhoods, you aren't going to
disturb your neighbor's land by removing your foundation.

The process is, therefore, quite a bit more casual after an initial
inspection.

--
Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
(206) 523-9500 www.phoenixhomesinc.com

"Lyle B. Harwood" wrote in message
nc.com...
In article , JTMcC
wrote:

? n large commercial buildings, excavation next to an existing foundation
is
? a very touchy (and expensive) endeavor, and involves some serious
inspection
? (before and after) and monitoring of the existing structure. I can't
imagine
? it being such a casual job on a residence but I could be wrong.

In my experience, all here in Seattle, with commercial the issue is the
duty to maintain horizontal support to an adjacent property- the
doctrine called "late support".

In my experience with residential, the units are usually free standing,
far enough apart and shallow enough that there isn't significant danger
of removing horizontal support.

Obviously, exceptions occur on hills and in medium density multi
family, and in those cases your statements are absolutely correct, but
for the most part, in many Seattle neighborhoods, you aren't going to
disturb your neighbor's land by removing your foundation.

The process is, therefore, quite a bit more casual after an initial
inspection.

--
Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
(206) 523-9500 www.phoenixhomesinc.com

I'm not talking about "far apart", I'm talking about excavating directly
next to an existing foundation. In commercial construction it is done
rarely, and at great expense and effort under strict scrutiny. Existing
cracks are meticulously mapped, strain gages are installed, cubic dollars
are spent. And damage is guaranteed, the goal becomes to minimize it. It is
never treated casually, especially by the engineers and insurance companies
involved.
Maybe the poster is looking to excavate a distance from his existing
foundation, but I got the impression his addition basement was to be
directly adjacent to it.

JTMcC.

I just rcently drew my own house plans and I have an engineer doing the
structural plans right now. Not sure if you mean directly stamping an owners
drawings or if you mean you wouldn't stamp drawings you drew and calculated
based upon an owners drawings, but I had no problems finding several
engineers that would take my owner builder drawings and produce and stamp a
set of structural drawings and calculations. It was pretty cheap too.

-Jeff

"Bob Morrison" wrote in message
k.net...
In a previous post Alexander Galkin says...
Building inspector explained to me that structural changes must be
approved
and signed by a licensed architect. Who prepared them does not matter.


Alexander:

I don't know what state you are located in, but the building inspector
is not the last word on this issue. In fact, most don't know enough
about the state licensing laws and minimum design procedures to put in a
teacup. Ever heard of trying to do a "lateral analyst of one wall of
new addition". Patently ridiculous! Yet, that was the comment from the
building inspector.

I would NEVER put my seal on a set of drawings prepared by the owner.
That's a good way to lose one's license.

--
Bob Morrison
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA

In a previous post Jeff Smith says...
I just rcently drew my own house plans and I have an engineer doing the
structural plans right now. Not sure if you mean directly stamping an owners
drawings or if you mean you wouldn't stamp drawings you drew and calculated
based upon an owners drawings, but I had no problems finding several
engineers that would take my owner builder drawings and produce and stamp a
set of structural drawings and calculations. It was pretty cheap too.


Jeff:

The procedure you describe is acceptable and I would do the job that way
myself. The OP was describing a scenario wherein he expected the
architect or engineer to stamp drawings prepared by the home owner.
That is the situation that is not allowed under most state laws.

BTW, I'm glad the process worked well for you. I try to set my fees low
enough to encourage home owners to take advantage of having an
engineered set of plans. Yet, I don't want to underprice the value of
the service received.

I guess I must be doing something right since I have consistently
maintained at least a 4 week backlog of work.


--
Bob Morrison
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA

I see you are still on this news Lyle!!!
"Lyle B. Harwood" wrote in message
nc.com...
In article , Alexander Galkin
wrote:

? Second I hate so much to deal with contractors. I had very little
? experience with contractors and almost all of it is negative. I would
? rather learn to do and then do something myself then spend time
? calling several tradesmen, collecting quotes, bargaining with them,
? supervising them, etc.

Best of luck, and let us know how it comes out!

--
Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
(206) 523-9500 www.phoenixhomesinc.com