I know I need a licensed architect to calculate the load, size and type of
headers, etc. I already talked briefly to an architect and also to a
building inspector while he was inspecting my other project. So when I will
be applying for a permit I will have my plans reviewed and sealed by
architect. Regarding electrical I have new 150 A service panel in my house
and I will be completely upgrading wiring in kitchen, bath and office that
the addition extends. It does not add any separate rooms so I don't think I
need more smoke and CO detectors then I already have. They all but one in
basement and battery powered and not interconnected. Fire inspection was
passed OK.
"Jeff Smith" wrote in message
news:QLfsd.188947$G15.84425@fed1read03...
First thing to check is if you can submit the plans for the addition
yourself (many states allow this under an owner builder provision) or if
you're required to have an architect or contractor stamp them. Unless you
are in the sticks you probably will be required to have a structural
engineer look over and stamp your plans. Also if you're putting in any
electrical (probably are) you need to see if based upon the size of your
addition, if you will trigger redoing the smoke detectors in your main
house
as they are probably not all interwired together with building power and
battery backup. If you are adding over a certain % of space onto your
house
usually you have to retrofit the smoke detectors in the entire building.
"Alexander Galkin" wrote in message
...
I am planning an addition to my 2 story colonial. The addition is
actually
extending first floor along the side facing backyard. The addition will
be
50 ft long by 6 ft wide. I want to do as much as I can myself leaving to
pro
only that part of the job that I absolutely cannot do or make no sense to
do
myself. I have moderate experience in framing, plumbing, electrical,
insulation, drywalling and have all necessary power tools to do the job.
I
do not have any experience in building foundation or putting joist-beam
floor system. I am weighing two options for the addition foundation:
crawl
space and full basement. Here I have several questions:
1. While I realize that every project has it many specifics what the
approximate cost would be to excavate hole for the 50 ft x 6X ft addition
foundation, build the foundation walls and slab, backfill and put the
floor
with no subfloor? I line in Central NJ.
You're going to have to talk to local subcontractors to get their rates,
they vary widely. Typically excavators charge by the hour.
2. What's the approximate cost difference of building full basement vs.
crawl space? Frost line in my area is 3 ft so trenches for the footings
must
be dug 3 ft at least.
Concrete and steel in most areas of the country has gone up considerably
(steel 3x) in the past year and so the cost difference is probably more
than
you would expect.
3. What's the approximate cost and benefits difference of concrete
monolithic vs.cinder blocks foundation? My house (55 years old)
foundation
is built using cinder block with I believe no rebar reinforcement.
My guess is, if the building codes are anything like in Nevada, you're
basically going to build what the structural engineer tells you to build,
unless you want to "upgrade" beyond what the engineer requires.
4. Is it feasible both economically and from time perspective trying to
do
some of foundation work myself? Could you advise me if any of the
following
foundation tasks I can do myself or I should forget about them and leave
them to pro:
- building footing forms and put rebar in them
- renting gas powered concrete mixer or get ready mixed concrete and
build
footings myself
- building foundation walls using cinder blocks
Is above what I can really do myself or it is not worth it? I have
limited
experience with concrete (redoing parts of basement slab after installing
underslab plumbing)
I definitely wouldn't be mixing concrete myself, that's not worth hassle,
but you may be able to build footing forms and rebar, but the issue is you
better be able to lay the forms out completely square and level. Most
contractors are using laser levels for this nowdays and not the cheap $50
ones from sears.
I believe having foundation built and floor put I can take over enlisting
my
Dad's and friend's help to put frame, siding, roof, plumbing, electrical
and
internal finish.
Any comments and advise would be greatly appreciated.
|