When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

On 2/29/2020 9:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right? Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 9:54:30 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/29/2020 9:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right? Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

+1

Was the old one pressure treated? How long did it last? In my experience
pressure treated easily lasts 20+ years. I have 6x6s I put in for edging
beds 25 years ago that are still good. The ones that were already here
are 35, those are failing. And that's full exposure, partly in the ground, etc.
Another question is if something is contributing to it, eg roof water runs
off and drops right at the perimeter, splashes up, gets inside, etc?

In article ,
says...

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right? Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

+1

Was the old one pressure treated? How long did it last? In my experience
pressure treated easily lasts 20+ years. I have 6x6s I put in for edging
beds 25 years ago that are still good. The ones that were already here
are 35, those are failing. And that's full exposure, partly in the ground, etc.
Another question is if something is contributing to it, eg roof water runs
off and drops right at the perimeter, splashes up, gets inside, etc?






There are various grades of the pressure treated lumber. Just get a
good grade.

It could be the metal plate was for termite protection. I don't know
much about that, but have seen some metal used under some houses and was
told it was to help with the termite problem.

On 2/29/2020 10:24 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right? Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

+1

Was the old one pressure treated? How long did it last? In my experience
pressure treated easily lasts 20+ years. I have 6x6s I put in for edging
beds 25 years ago that are still good. The ones that were already here
are 35, those are failing. And that's full exposure, partly in the ground, etc.
Another question is if something is contributing to it, eg roof water runs
off and drops right at the perimeter, splashes up, gets inside, etc?






There are various grades of the pressure treated lumber. Just get a
good grade.

It could be the metal plate was for termite protection. I don't know
much about that, but have seen some metal used under some houses and was
told it was to help with the termite problem.


That's right. I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic. I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.

In article , says...

That's right. I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic. I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.



It seems that most of the 'good stuff' has been banned.

I guess that Roundup (or its components) will be next on the list. That
or the lawyers will price it out of business.

On 2/29/2020 12:51 PM, Frank wrote:
On 2/29/2020 10:24 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right?Â* Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

+1

Was the old one pressure treated?Â*Â* How long did it last?Â* In my
experience
pressure treated easily lasts 20+ years.Â* I have 6x6s I put in for
edging
beds 25 years ago that are still good.Â* The ones that were already here
are 35, those are failing.Â* And that's full exposure, partly in the
ground, etc.
Another question is if something is contributing to it, eg roof water
runs
off and drops right at the perimeter, splashes up, gets inside, etc?






There are various grades of the pressure treated lumber.Â* Just get a
good grade.

It could be the metal plate was for termite protection.Â* I don't know
much about that, but have seen some metal used under some houses and was
told it was to help with the termite problem.


That's right.Â* I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic.Â* I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.

OMG, I was going to stop over and have a beer with you but knowing you
have arsenic PT on your property I'm afraid to come near it. For
safety, maybe you can cover it with asbestos shingles.

On 2/29/20 8:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

The "at my age" part caught my attention. Keeping the sill easy
to cross should be a consideration. Maybe raise it by a brick if
it's really necessary to do that.

On 2/29/2020 12:04 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...
That's right. I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic. I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.


It seems that most of the 'good stuff' has been banned.

I guess that Roundup (or its components) will be next on the list. That
or the lawyers will price it out of business.


Â* Did you know they spray wheat with Roundup just before it's harvested
? They call it "desiccation" and the objective is to dry the grain more
uniformly so the harvest is bigger/better . YOU EAT THAT **** on every
slice of bread , bite of pasta , anything with wheat in it (which is why
I make all our bread products with flour from non-treated wheat) . And
if you believe that Roundup/glyphosate is harmless , I have a nice piece
of Ozark oceanfront property for sale . I catch anyone on my property
with that **** I'll rip their arm off and beat them to death with it .
Roundup and neonicotinoid insecticides are the worst things you can use
around bees (we currently have 4 hives , with plans to double the hive
count this spring) and I'm glad I live far away from anywhere they're in
widespread use .Â* You've heard about all the insects that "ain't there
anymore" ? Those 2 chemicals are why . Just remember , food chains start
with insects ... and if we kill 'em all off , it's gonna bite us on the
ass .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On 2/29/2020 6:02 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:

Â* Did you know they spray wheat with Roundup just before it's harvested

Did not sound right to me so I quickly Googled:

http://kswheat.com/the-truth-about-r...pport-material

Lawyers are extorting Roundup producer based on epidemiological data
which anyone familiar with knows about the tremendous amount of static
in such data. All the lawyers have to do is convince a jury but the EPA
says it is safe.

On 2/29/2020 3:13 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/29/2020 12:51 PM, Frank wrote:
On 2/29/2020 10:24 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right?Â* Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

+1

Was the old one pressure treated?Â*Â* How long did it last?Â* In my
experience
pressure treated easily lasts 20+ years.Â* I have 6x6s I put in for
edging
beds 25 years ago that are still good.Â* The ones that were already here
are 35, those are failing.Â* And that's full exposure, partly in the
ground, etc.
Another question is if something is contributing to it, eg roof
water runs
off and drops right at the perimeter, splashes up, gets inside, etc?






There are various grades of the pressure treated lumber.Â* Just get a
good grade.

It could be the metal plate was for termite protection.Â* I don't know
much about that, but have seen some metal used under some houses and was
told it was to help with the termite problem.


That's right.Â* I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic.Â* I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.

OMG, I was going to stop over and have a beer with you but knowing you
have arsenic PT on your property I'm afraid to come near it.Â* For
safety, maybe you can cover it with asbestos shingles.

I've also got about a half of a pound of DDT. I had a pound but half
has been used around the house.

On 2/29/2020 5:42 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 2/29/20 8:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill
plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to
the new sill plate.Â* The floor is concrete slab.Â* The old sill plate
is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird.Â* I haven't seen that
before.Â* It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I
placed one row of concrete block?Â* Block is cheap, it would elevate
the plate a bit above the moisture.Â* It will take a bit longer, but if
it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

Â*Â*Â*Â* The "at my age" part caught my attention.Â*Â* Keeping the sill easy
to cross should be a consideration.Â*Â*Â*Â* Maybe raise it by a brick if
it's really necessary to do that.

I had wooden window sills rot out way above ground. I replaced them
with pressure treated lumber. That was a while back and now I have all
new window and sills are vinyl.

On 2/29/2020 5:02 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/29/2020 12:04 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...
That's right.Â* I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic.Â* I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.


It seems that most of the 'good stuff' has been banned.

I guess that Roundup (or its components) will be next on the list.Â* That
or the lawyers will price it out of business.


Â* Did you know they spray wheat with Roundup just before it's harvested
....

Nonsense.

NEVER seen it done here in the major wheat belt and it's certainly not
the norm anywhere. It _might_ be used for special needs in areas with
really short growing season or, more likely, in case of delayed harvest
such that weed growth might be interfering with cutting.

The likelihood any flour commercially grown has seen glyphosate is
essentially zero from US-produced wheat and I'd guess not much more than
that anywhere.

--

On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 06:48:56 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.
Sounds like asolid idea to me. But put a moisture barrier between the
block course and the wood sill. Something like Blue-skin, or ice and
water barrier, or even just a good roofing paper. Keep the wood from
contacting the concrete.

On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 17:02:15 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

On 2/29/2020 12:04 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...
That's right. I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic. I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.


It seems that most of the 'good stuff' has been banned.

I guess that Roundup (or its components) will be next on the list. That
or the lawyers will price it out of business.


* Did you know they spray wheat with Roundup just before it's harvested
? They call it "desiccation" and the objective is to dry the grain more
uniformly so the harvest is bigger/better . YOU EAT THAT **** on every
slice of bread , bite of pasta , anything with wheat in it (which is why
I make all our bread products with flour from non-treated wheat) . And
if you believe that Roundup/glyphosate is harmless , I have a nice piece
of Ozark oceanfront property for sale . I catch anyone on my property
with that **** I'll rip their arm off and beat them to death with it .
Roundup and neonicotinoid insecticides are the worst things you can use
around bees (we currently have 4 hives , with plans to double the hive
count this spring) and I'm glad I live far away from anywhere they're in
widespread use .* You've heard about all the insects that "ain't there
anymore" ? Those 2 chemicals are why . Just remember , food chains start
with insects ... and if we kill 'em all off , it's gonna bite us on the
ass .
Never seen it used on wheet. It IS used on Soybeans - particularly
those bound for industrial use

On 2/29/2020 6:49 PM, Frank wrote:
On 2/29/2020 3:13 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/29/2020 12:51 PM, Frank wrote:
On 2/29/2020 10:24 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right?Â* Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

+1

Was the old one pressure treated?Â*Â* How long did it last?Â* In my
experience
pressure treated easily lasts 20+ years.Â* I have 6x6s I put in for
edging
beds 25 years ago that are still good.Â* The ones that were already
here
are 35, those are failing.Â* And that's full exposure, partly in the
ground, etc.
Another question is if something is contributing to it, eg roof
water runs
off and drops right at the perimeter, splashes up, gets inside, etc?






There are various grades of the pressure treated lumber.Â* Just get a
good grade.

It could be the metal plate was for termite protection.Â* I don't know
much about that, but have seen some metal used under some houses and
was
told it was to help with the termite problem.


That's right.Â* I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic.Â* I think now they have above
ground and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.

OMG, I was going to stop over and have a beer with you but knowing you
have arsenic PT on your property I'm afraid to come near it.Â* For
safety, maybe you can cover it with asbestos shingles.

I've also got about a half of a pound of DDT.Â* I had a pound but half
has been used around the house.

I had chlordane for a while too, finally used it up. Good stuff when
used properly.

On 2/29/20 7:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 2/29/2020 5:02 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/29/2020 12:04 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...
That's right.Â* I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic.Â* I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.


It seems that most of the 'good stuff' has been banned.

I guess that Roundup (or its components) will be next on the list.Â* That
or the lawyers will price it out of business.


Â*Â* Did you know they spray wheat with Roundup just before it's harvested
...

Nonsense.

NEVER seen it done here in the major wheat belt and it's certainly not the norm anywhere.Â* ItÂ* _might_ be used for special needs in areas with really short growing season or, more likely, in case of delayed harvest such that weed growth might be
interfering with cutting.

The likelihood any flour commercially grown has seen glyphosate is essentially zero from US-produced wheat and I'd guess not much more than that anywhere.

--

Don't get out much?

https://www.ecowatch.com/roundup-cancer-1882187755.html

On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 06:48:56 -0800 (PST), TimR wrote:

When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

Most sills are tied to a slab/foundation. Provides horizontal stability. Don't know how
big your shed is, but that's something to keep in mind.

On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 22:12:44 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 06:48:56 -0800 (PST), TimR wrote:

When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

Most sills are tied to a slab/foundation. Provides horizontal stability. Don't know how
big your shed is, but that's something to keep in mind.
Bond the block to the slab and embed grip-tite anchors in the blocks
to bolt the sill down. Done all the time. Just need to fill the
blockcavities where the anchors go. Or use wedge anchors in the floor
slab with redi-rod through the block and sill.. If you need wind
resistance you put strong-ties from the sill to the studs.
Theconcern about tripping noted in a previous post is a red herring -
neither the block or the sill plate extend across the door opening,
generally speaking. Cross brace the shed,jack it off the slab, cut off
the rotted studs, insert the anchors and lay the blocks, the isolation
membrane and the sill plates then lower the shed and fasten the studs
to the sill - toe-nail, L bracket, strong-tie- orwhatever method you
like. Without jacking the shed it gets a bit trickier. You can use
jack posts to the rafters or to temporary framing under the top
plates, or you can use toe jacks,. Just make sure you brace it so the
shed can't topple.

Hope I never have to do it to my shed - all the studs are old kiln
dried hardwood pallet material that was a real bugger to cut 20 years
ago - so hard I had to drill pilot holes to drive spikes to put it
together and without substantial pilot holes #8 or #10 construction
screws just snapped off. More worried about the pressure treated
foundation - pressure treated 6X6 white cedar (resawn salvaged hydro
poles) laid on about 4 inches of crushed stone in trench on subsoil,
backfilled with crushed stone, with sidewalk slabs all the way around
and good overhangs with rain gutters. It's 10X10 with a 15X15 roof and
a full 8 feet to the eaves so it is NOT light - - -

On 2/29/2020 7:00 PM, devnull wrote:
On 2/29/20 7:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 2/29/2020 5:02 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/29/2020 12:04 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...
That's right.Â* I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic.Â* I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.


It seems that most of the 'good stuff' has been banned.

I guess that Roundup (or its components) will be next on the list.
That
or the lawyers will price it out of business.


Â*Â* Did you know they spray wheat with Roundup just before it's harvested
...

Nonsense.

NEVER seen it done here in the major wheat belt and it's certainly not
the norm anywhere.Â* ItÂ* _might_ be used for special needs in areas
with really short growing season or, more likely, in case of delayed
harvest such that weed growth might be interfering with cutting.

The likelihood any flour commercially grown has seen glyphosate is
essentially zero from US-produced wheat and I'd guess not much more
than that anywhere.

--

Don't get out much?

https://www.ecowatch.com/roundup-cancer-1882187755.html

I'm out in the wheat fields and have been for 60+ years. NEVER used
glyphosate on wheat before harvest.

--

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 6:02:13 PM UTC-5, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/29/2020 12:04 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...
That's right. I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic. I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.


It seems that most of the 'good stuff' has been banned.

I guess that Roundup (or its components) will be next on the list. That
or the lawyers will price it out of business.


Â* Did you know they spray wheat with Roundup just before it's harvested
? They call it "desiccation" and the objective is to dry the grain more
uniformly so the harvest is bigger/better . YOU EAT THAT **** on every
slice of bread , bite of pasta , anything with wheat in it (which is why
I make all our bread products with flour from non-treated wheat) .

That is a usage that should be banned.


And
if you believe that Roundup/glyphosate is harmless , I have a nice piece
of Ozark oceanfront property for sale . I catch anyone on my property
with that **** I'll rip their arm off and beat them to death with it .

That seems like a gross overreaction.



Roundup and neonicotinoid insecticides are the worst things you can use
around bees (we currently have 4 hives , with plans to double the hive
count this spring) and I'm glad I live far away from anywhere they're in
widespread use .Â* You've heard about all the insects that "ain't there
anymore" ? Those 2 chemicals are why .

The scientists actually studying colony collapse for years now don't
agree. For example, it's occurring in areas with no pesticide usage.
And CCD has occurred since at least the 1800s, periods where bees
died off for no known reason.





Just remember , food chains start
with insects ... and if we kill 'em all off , it's gonna bite us on the
ass .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 7:09:50 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 2/29/2020 5:02 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/29/2020 12:04 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...
That's right.Â* I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic.Â* I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.


It seems that most of the 'good stuff' has been banned.

I guess that Roundup (or its components) will be next on the list.Â* That
or the lawyers will price it out of business.


Â* Did you know they spray wheat with Roundup just before it's harvested
...

Nonsense.

NEVER seen it done here in the major wheat belt and it's certainly not
the norm anywhere. It _might_ be used for special needs in areas with
really short growing season or, more likely, in case of delayed harvest
such that weed growth might be interfering with cutting.

The likelihood any flour commercially grown has seen glyphosate is
essentially zero from US-produced wheat and I'd guess not much more than
that anywhere.

--

It may not be from spraying before harvest, but somehow traces of
glyphosate are showing up in a lot of foods. And Monsanto has a huge
business selling genetically modified seeds so that the crops can be
sprayed with RU to kill weeds, but not the crop. So while they may
not be spraying it before harvest, they are spraying it on a lot
of crops during the season. Looks to me like
it's similar to any other chemical, pesticide used on crops. Some
traces will wind up in the food. The only question is how much and
what's a safe level. RU doesn't appear to be particularly dangerous,
the traces left probably aren't a problem. That's the opinion of the
FDA, etc anyway.

On 3/1/2020 6:16 AM, dpb wrote:
On 2/29/2020 7:00 PM, devnull wrote:
On 2/29/20 7:09 PM, dpb wrote:
On 2/29/2020 5:02 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 2/29/2020 12:04 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...
That's right.Â* I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic.Â* I think now they have above
ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.


It seems that most of the 'good stuff' has been banned.

I guess that Roundup (or its components) will be next on the list.
That
or the lawyers will price it out of business.


Â*Â* Did you know they spray wheat with Roundup just before it's
harvested
...

Nonsense.

NEVER seen it done here in the major wheat belt and it's certainly
not the norm anywhere.Â* ItÂ* _might_ be used for special needs in
areas with really short growing season or, more likely, in case of
delayed harvest such that weed growth might be interfering with cutting.

The likelihood any flour commercially grown has seen glyphosate is
essentially zero from US-produced wheat and I'd guess not much more
than that anywhere.

--

Don't get out much?

https://www.ecowatch.com/roundup-cancer-1882187755.html

I'm out in the wheat fields and have been for 60+ years.Â* NEVER used
glyphosate on wheat before harvest.

--



Looked at cite and it is highly biased. Today we have not only fake
news but fake science.

On 2/29/2020 7:56 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/29/2020 6:49 PM, Frank wrote:
On 2/29/2020 3:13 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/29/2020 12:51 PM, Frank wrote:
On 2/29/2020 10:24 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right?
Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last
and
decide from there.

+1

Was the old one pressure treated?Â*Â* How long did it last?Â* In my
experience
pressure treated easily lasts 20+ years.Â* I have 6x6s I put in for
edging
beds 25 years ago that are still good.Â* The ones that were already
here
are 35, those are failing.Â* And that's full exposure, partly in
the ground, etc.
Another question is if something is contributing to it, eg roof
water runs
off and drops right at the perimeter, splashes up, gets inside, etc?






There are various grades of the pressure treated lumber.Â* Just get a
good grade.

It could be the metal plate was for termite protection.Â* I don't know
much about that, but have seen some metal used under some houses
and was
told it was to help with the termite problem.


That's right.Â* I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years
but that contained now banned arsenic.Â* I think now they have above
ground and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.

OMG, I was going to stop over and have a beer with you but knowing
you have arsenic PT on your property I'm afraid to come near it.Â* For
safety, maybe you can cover it with asbestos shingles.

I've also got about a half of a pound of DDT.Â* I had a pound but half
has been used around the house.

I had chlordane for a while too, finally used it up.Â* Good stuff when
used properly.

We have termites in the area and every year I would spray diazinone
around the perimeter of the house for them and ants. But now it is
banned for homeowners so I few years ago I had professional treatment
supposedly good for 20 year. EPA has been a real PITA with us home
owners who like to do these things ourselves.

There are termite treatments available to homeowners but their lifetime
is short as a year for stuff you just put down and only a couple of
years for stuff you bury. Chlordane once buried is good forever.

Update of an old thread.

I decided to go ahead with the block on the first wall. (This part of the shed is an addition and has three rotted walls, each about 12 feet in length. The other half of the shed has had little damage.)

I'm making progress on the first wall, taking my time and learning as I go. This was the worst wall, with the studs rotted farther up, so I had to cut them higher anyway. I'm taking the advice to anchor the block and use J bolts on the sill, by the way, and put a moisture barrier between block and wood.

And what I learned is this was a BAD idea. It's going to work. But the skill involved in laying block straight and level is not to be underestimated.. The other two walls will just get pressure treated sill secured to the floor.

The sill plate that rotted was a 2x4 and I'm not sure it was pressure treated. It was wrapped in thin sheet metal and they might have figured that was enough.

On 2/29/2020 6:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.


I replaced the sill plate of my shop in a few spots. I made a "T" out
of 4x4's, and used it on a floor jack to push up on the ceiling joists
to lift the wall slightly from the foundation, hammered the sill plate a
little loose from the wall studs, then either pulled the nails or cut
them off with a hacksaw blade in a hand holder. I then replaced the sill
plate with pressure treated wood, dropped the wall back down and toe
nailed the studs back to the new sill plate.

Concrete wicks water. You could just lay heavy tar paper beneath the
wood to prevent that.

On 6/9/2020 6:53 AM, TimR wrote:
Update of an old thread.

I decided to go ahead with the block on the first wall. (This part of the shed is an addition and has three rotted walls, each about 12 feet in length. The other half of the shed has had little damage.)

I'm making progress on the first wall, taking my time and learning as I go. This was the worst wall, with the studs rotted farther up, so I had to cut them higher anyway. I'm taking the advice to anchor the block and use J bolts on the sill, by the way, and put a moisture barrier between block and wood.

And what I learned is this was a BAD idea. It's going to work. But the skill involved in laying block straight and level is not to be underestimated. The other two walls will just get pressure treated sill secured to the floor.

The sill plate that rotted was a 2x4 and I'm not sure it was pressure treated. It was wrapped in thin sheet metal and they might have figured that was enough.


Or, it could have trapped water inside which could not evaporate, and
caused the problem.

On Tue, 9 Jun 2020 11:24:15 -0700, Bob F wrote:

On 2/29/2020 6:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.


I replaced the sill plate of my shop in a few spots. I made a "T" out
of 4x4's, and used it on a floor jack to push up on the ceiling joists
to lift the wall slightly from the foundation, hammered the sill plate a
little loose from the wall studs, then either pulled the nails or cut
them off with a hacksaw blade in a hand holder. I then replaced the sill
plate with pressure treated wood, dropped the wall back down and toe
nailed the studs back to the new sill plate.

Concrete wicks water. You could just lay heavy tar paper beneath the
wood to prevent that.
from what he wrote, he did

On Tuesday, June 9, 2020 at 10:33:36 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:

Concrete wicks water. You could just lay heavy tar paper beneath the
wood to prevent that.
from what he wrote, he did

Yes and I have to thank people who mentioned that earlier in the thread. I didn't know that before I started this.

I also have to thank those who mentioned anchoring the block to the slab. I would have thought of anchoring the new sill plate to the block, probably, but might not have realized block should have lateral resistance too.

On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 8:36:51 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Tuesday, June 9, 2020 at 10:33:36 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:

Concrete wicks water. You could just lay heavy tar paper beneath the
wood to prevent that.

Yesterday I found one more reason doing the block wall was a bad idea.

Concrete is porous to water, but not very fast.

We had hurricane Isaias run over our area, and low lying water poured into the shed. In severe rains I've got a bit before, it doesn't drain well from one side of the shed, it's on my list of projects. Anyway, it ran over to my new block wall, which is apparently slightly downhill, and got trapped. In the past it's quickly drained out through the gaps, but now I have concrete block mortared to the slab, and it trapped the water like a swimming pool. I had to drag out the wetvac.