When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

On 2/29/2020 9:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right? Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 9:54:30 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/29/2020 9:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right? Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

+1

Was the old one pressure treated? How long did it last? In my experience
pressure treated easily lasts 20+ years. I have 6x6s I put in for edging
beds 25 years ago that are still good. The ones that were already here
are 35, those are failing. And that's full exposure, partly in the ground, etc.
Another question is if something is contributing to it, eg roof water runs
off and drops right at the perimeter, splashes up, gets inside, etc?

In article ,
says...

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right? Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

+1

Was the old one pressure treated? How long did it last? In my experience
pressure treated easily lasts 20+ years. I have 6x6s I put in for edging
beds 25 years ago that are still good. The ones that were already here
are 35, those are failing. And that's full exposure, partly in the ground, etc.
Another question is if something is contributing to it, eg roof water runs
off and drops right at the perimeter, splashes up, gets inside, etc?






There are various grades of the pressure treated lumber. Just get a
good grade.

It could be the metal plate was for termite protection. I don't know
much about that, but have seen some metal used under some houses and was
told it was to help with the termite problem.

On 2/29/2020 10:24 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right? Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

+1

Was the old one pressure treated? How long did it last? In my experience
pressure treated easily lasts 20+ years. I have 6x6s I put in for edging
beds 25 years ago that are still good. The ones that were already here
are 35, those are failing. And that's full exposure, partly in the ground, etc.
Another question is if something is contributing to it, eg roof water runs
off and drops right at the perimeter, splashes up, gets inside, etc?






There are various grades of the pressure treated lumber. Just get a
good grade.

It could be the metal plate was for termite protection. I don't know
much about that, but have seen some metal used under some houses and was
told it was to help with the termite problem.


That's right. I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic. I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.

In article , says...

That's right. I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic. I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.



It seems that most of the 'good stuff' has been banned.

I guess that Roundup (or its components) will be next on the list. That
or the lawyers will price it out of business.

On 2/29/2020 12:51 PM, Frank wrote:
On 2/29/2020 10:24 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...

You are going to use pressure treated on the new plate right?Â* Should
last 25 to 50 years so think about how long you are going to last and
decide from there.

+1

Was the old one pressure treated?Â*Â* How long did it last?Â* In my
experience
pressure treated easily lasts 20+ years.Â* I have 6x6s I put in for
edging
beds 25 years ago that are still good.Â* The ones that were already here
are 35, those are failing.Â* And that's full exposure, partly in the
ground, etc.
Another question is if something is contributing to it, eg roof water
runs
off and drops right at the perimeter, splashes up, gets inside, etc?






There are various grades of the pressure treated lumber.Â* Just get a
good grade.

It could be the metal plate was for termite protection.Â* I don't know
much about that, but have seen some metal used under some houses and was
told it was to help with the termite problem.


That's right.Â* I've got old stuff in the ground for over 40 years but
that contained now banned arsenic.Â* I think now they have above ground
and below ground grades probably bases on copper additives.

OMG, I was going to stop over and have a beer with you but knowing you
have arsenic PT on your property I'm afraid to come near it. For
safety, maybe you can cover it with asbestos shingles.

On 2/29/20 8:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

The "at my age" part caught my attention. Keeping the sill easy
to cross should be a consideration. Maybe raise it by a brick if
it's really necessary to do that.

On 2/29/2020 5:42 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 2/29/20 8:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill
plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to
the new sill plate.Â* The floor is concrete slab.Â* The old sill plate
is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird.Â* I haven't seen that
before.Â* It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I
placed one row of concrete block?Â* Block is cheap, it would elevate
the plate a bit above the moisture.Â* It will take a bit longer, but if
it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

Â*Â*Â*Â* The "at my age" part caught my attention.Â*Â* Keeping the sill easy
to cross should be a consideration.Â*Â*Â*Â* Maybe raise it by a brick if
it's really necessary to do that.

I had wooden window sills rot out way above ground. I replaced them
with pressure treated lumber. That was a while back and now I have all
new window and sills are vinyl.

On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 06:48:56 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote:

When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.
Sounds like asolid idea to me. But put a moisture barrier between the
block course and the wood sill. Something like Blue-skin, or ice and
water barrier, or even just a good roofing paper. Keep the wood from
contacting the concrete.

On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 06:48:56 -0800 (PST), TimR wrote:

When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

Most sills are tied to a slab/foundation. Provides horizontal stability. Don't know how
big your shed is, but that's something to keep in mind.

On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 22:12:44 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Sat, 29 Feb 2020 06:48:56 -0800 (PST), TimR wrote:

When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.

Most sills are tied to a slab/foundation. Provides horizontal stability. Don't know how
big your shed is, but that's something to keep in mind.
Bond the block to the slab and embed grip-tite anchors in the blocks
to bolt the sill down. Done all the time. Just need to fill the
blockcavities where the anchors go. Or use wedge anchors in the floor
slab with redi-rod through the block and sill.. If you need wind
resistance you put strong-ties from the sill to the studs.
Theconcern about tripping noted in a previous post is a red herring -
neither the block or the sill plate extend across the door opening,
generally speaking. Cross brace the shed,jack it off the slab, cut off
the rotted studs, insert the anchors and lay the blocks, the isolation
membrane and the sill plates then lower the shed and fasten the studs
to the sill - toe-nail, L bracket, strong-tie- orwhatever method you
like. Without jacking the shed it gets a bit trickier. You can use
jack posts to the rafters or to temporary framing under the top
plates, or you can use toe jacks,. Just make sure you brace it so the
shed can't topple.

Hope I never have to do it to my shed - all the studs are old kiln
dried hardwood pallet material that was a real bugger to cut 20 years
ago - so hard I had to drill pilot holes to drive spikes to put it
together and without substantial pilot holes #8 or #10 construction
screws just snapped off. More worried about the pressure treated
foundation - pressure treated 6X6 white cedar (resawn salvaged hydro
poles) laid on about 4 inches of crushed stone in trench on subsoil,
backfilled with crushed stone, with sidewalk slabs all the way around
and good overhangs with rain gutters. It's 10X10 with a 15X15 roof and
a full 8 feet to the eaves so it is NOT light - - -

On 2/29/2020 6:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.


I replaced the sill plate of my shop in a few spots. I made a "T" out
of 4x4's, and used it on a floor jack to push up on the ceiling joists
to lift the wall slightly from the foundation, hammered the sill plate a
little loose from the wall studs, then either pulled the nails or cut
them off with a hacksaw blade in a hand holder. I then replaced the sill
plate with pressure treated wood, dropped the wall back down and toe
nailed the studs back to the new sill plate.

Concrete wicks water. You could just lay heavy tar paper beneath the
wood to prevent that.

On Tue, 9 Jun 2020 11:24:15 -0700, Bob F wrote:

On 2/29/2020 6:48 AM, TimR wrote:
When the weather warms enough I'll get to replacing some rotted sill plate in my shed.

But I had a thought, which is maybe a dumb idea, I dunno.

I have to cut each stud above the plate, add a section, and connect to the new sill plate. The floor is concrete slab. The old sill plate is wood but metal wrapped, kind of weird. I haven't seen that before. It didn't seem to protect it any though.

What if instead of laying the new sill plate directly on the floor, I placed one row of concrete block? Block is cheap, it would elevate the plate a bit above the moisture. It will take a bit longer, but if it saves me doing this job again at my age it would be worth it.


I replaced the sill plate of my shop in a few spots. I made a "T" out
of 4x4's, and used it on a floor jack to push up on the ceiling joists
to lift the wall slightly from the foundation, hammered the sill plate a
little loose from the wall studs, then either pulled the nails or cut
them off with a hacksaw blade in a hand holder. I then replaced the sill
plate with pressure treated wood, dropped the wall back down and toe
nailed the studs back to the new sill plate.

Concrete wicks water. You could just lay heavy tar paper beneath the
wood to prevent that.
from what he wrote, he did

On Tuesday, June 9, 2020 at 10:33:36 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:

Concrete wicks water. You could just lay heavy tar paper beneath the
wood to prevent that.
from what he wrote, he did

Yes and I have to thank people who mentioned that earlier in the thread. I didn't know that before I started this.

I also have to thank those who mentioned anchoring the block to the slab. I would have thought of anchoring the new sill plate to the block, probably, but might not have realized block should have lateral resistance too.

On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 8:36:51 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Tuesday, June 9, 2020 at 10:33:36 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:

Concrete wicks water. You could just lay heavy tar paper beneath the
wood to prevent that.

Yesterday I found one more reason doing the block wall was a bad idea.

Concrete is porous to water, but not very fast.

We had hurricane Isaias run over our area, and low lying water poured into the shed. In severe rains I've got a bit before, it doesn't drain well from one side of the shed, it's on my list of projects. Anyway, it ran over to my new block wall, which is apparently slightly downhill, and got trapped. In the past it's quickly drained out through the gaps, but now I have concrete block mortared to the slab, and it trapped the water like a swimming pool. I had to drag out the wetvac.