Not spinning or agitating. Timer, water on/off ok.

All checked out ok so far: door lift switch, level sensing tube and pressure switch, fuse, all connections good. Motor belt ok.

Tomorrow will check out motor. Any other idears what the trouble cause is?

This guys videos are excellent...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=8m29s&v=h99L254vPK8

Several other good videos. However a couple are wrong so use your own experience. The wiring diagram was in a pocket inside control panel, left side.

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 3 Sep 2019 22:22:46 -0700 (PDT), WGUV
wrote:

Not spinning or agitating. Timer, water on/off ok.

Is this a mechanical timer? If so, that it advances and powers some
functions doesn't mean that the switch powering the the motor is
working. Is there power at the motor when the timer is calling for
agitation? (Actually the same question still applies if it has an
electronic timer.) IOW, how do you know the timer is good, just because
it ticks away to the end of the cycle? Not enough.

All checked out ok so far: door lift switch, level sensing tube and pressure switch, fuse, all connections good. Motor belt ok.

Tomorrow will check out motor. Any other idears what the trouble cause is?

This guys videos are excellent...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=8m29s&v=h99L254vPK8

A) I wouldn't "cut the end" off an extension cord. I'd be more like
to cut the plug and one foot of wire off the extension cord, then add a
plug to the whats left of it, so I'd still have an extesion cod and a
one foot cheater cord to use the way he wants you to.

B) I'd have to think about it some more but I almost certainly wouldn't
cut all four wires. At most I'd cut the ones for the first test. if
they determine that the motor is bad, why cut the other two, just to
determine the same thing?

But I doubt I'd cut any. 40 years ago I bought box of 10**
insulation-piercing alligator clips. They have many uses. Two of them
I connected to a cheater cord like he wants you to make, but better. One
use would be to power the motor without cutting anything ---AFTER I
unplugged the washer and AFTER I deterimined that sending power
backwards from where he wants you to cut the wire would not hurt
anything. On first blush now, I don't think it would.

**They only sold them in boxes of 10


I also have two of my insulation piercing alligator clips on a simple
jumper wire. Before applying power to the motor, I think I would pierce
the inulation and see if there is power to the motor when it's in the
agitate or spin section of the cycle. AFTER making sure the machine is
plugged in and turned on and in the right cycle stage.


I don't like the idea of depending on butt connectors. I think it's
possible to think you've done a good job of crimping and find that it
falls apart when you're not looking.

But it's also not super-easy to apply the in-piercing clips. You may
well have to supplement the spring by manual squeezing (although less
likely maybe since the new clips are better than mine), and I think it's
possible to close the clips while missing the wires. The ohmmeter
function allows you to see if you've hit the wires.


Well, they don't seem to sell clips quite as cheap as the ones I bought
40 years ago. New ones might work better. Most come with wires
attached now.
https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...t-leads/1.html
This seems like the same as above, but without the wires, strangely for
the same price. I'd buy the ones with wires for the same price:
https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...t-clips/1.html

Amazon has an array of other stuff, much of this is not
insluation-piercing, and some does pierce but it's only a needle that
attacheds to a banana plug, so you'd need a wire or two with a banana
plug. Most of them have wires attached, and none are like what I
bought. I guess 40 years make a difference.

Several other good videos. However a couple are wrong so use your own experience. The wiring diagram was in a pocket inside control panel, left side.

Thanks micky. I just realized 40 years ago was 1979.... 40 years seemed a lot longer in the old days.

Below was my comment at the ge site. This model would have been first class if they had given it a good testing before throwing out on the market.


GE® 4.1 IEC Cu. Ft. Colossal Capacity High-Efficiency Washer | WHRE5550KWW | GE Appliances

https://products.geappliances.com/ap...cs/WHRE5550KWW

This model was manufactured 2009-2010. Due to age, you may want to considering a replacement. See All GE Washers:...

Ge should have said this 8 years ago. Terrible washer from day 1.


Rated 1.8 our of 5 with 54 feedback comments

35 out of 50 rates 1. That tells the story. GE misunderstood the purpose of a washer is to clean clothes first, water saving later. Only way to be sure clothes are clean.... Wash small loads and set for max load. Add dertegent, one cup of white distilled vinegar and 1/2 cup of baking soda and works fine. BUT... normal cotton sleeves and thin clothes come out twisted in knots... this does not happen with older ge machines. So much lint with no screen filter, have to clean dryer filter several times per 30 min cycle or it takes an hour to dry. Spinning 700 rpm is much too fast... Leaves permanent creases in clothes. Pump speed too fast for 1.5 in drains typical in 1960-70s tract homes.... required modifying standpipe so that pipe would overflow horizontally to outside and not backup in washer. I have troubleshot nearly every component and circuit... No problem with quality of hardware or basic design. Need real people not programmers to use the products and modify so it works properly. I am not a pro, just a guy who is very happy that the motor that finally failed after 10 years costs $200... so i can get a better machine and have clean clothes again. Will sell good parts, circuit boards, etc on ebay since most are very expensive.

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 4 Sep 2019 18:12:12 -0700 (PDT), WGUV
wrote:

Thanks micky. I just realized 40 years ago was 1979.... 40 years seemed a lot longer in the old days.

Below was my comment at the ge site. This model would have been first class if they had given it a good testing before throwing out on the market.


GE® 4.1 IEC Cu. Ft. Colossal Capacity High-Efficiency Washer | WHRE5550KWW | GE Appliances

https://products.geappliances.com/ap...cs/WHRE5550KWW

This model was manufactured 2009-2010. Due to age, you may want to considering a replacement. See All GE Washers:...

Ge should have said this 8 years ago. Terrible washer from day 1.


Rated 1.8 our of 5 with 54 feedback comments

35 out of 50 rates 1. That tells the story. GE misunderstood the purpose of a washer is to clean clothes first, water saving later. Only way to be sure clothes are clean.... Wash small loads and set for max load. Add dertegent, one cup of white distilled vinegar and 1/2 cup of baking soda and works fine. BUT... normal cotton sleeves and thin clothes come out twisted in knots... this does not happen with older ge machines. So much lint with no screen filter, have to clean dryer filter several times per 30 min cycle or it takes an hour to dry. Spinning 700 rpm is much too fast... Leaves permanent creases in clothes.

I wonder how fast mine goes. 700 is almost 12rp/second. Hard to
believe any washer can do that. It might fly away. I would guess mine
is about 3 or 4 rps / 180 to 240 rpm.

Pump speed too fast for 1.5 in drains typical in 1960-70s tract homes.... required modifying standpipe so that pipe would overflow horizontally to outside and not backup in washer.

I have a laundry sink so that is not an issue, but may people don't,
especially I think the ones with laundry rooms on the 2nd floor.

I have troubleshot nearly every component and circuit... No problem with quality of hardware or basic design. Need real people not programmers to use the products and modify so it works
properly. I am not a pro, just a guy who is very happy that the motor that finally failed after 10 years costs $200... so i can get a better machine and have clean clothes again. Will sell good parts, circuit boards, etc on ebay since most are very expensive.

The only thing i like about this model is i only replaced one low cost electrical part at least 5 years ago and cant remember even what it was. If this failure had been a simple swap out of parts i would fix and keep it. But a 10 years washer is not worth spending over $200 and still not doing a good job cleaning.

GE Washer WHRE5550KWW... Mfr 2009

Biggest negatives have been high speed noisy spin. Lack of lint filter. Pump flowrate is too high for drain pipe size. Whoever dreamed up their agitator-free method did it by theory and did not see that it does not work in normal clothes. Any one of these are reasons i would avoid it.

Will start new thread now

On Thursday, September 5, 2019 at 10:01:47 AM UTC-4, WGUV wrote:
The only thing i like about this model is i only replaced one low cost electrical part at least 5 years ago and cant remember even what it was. If this failure had been a simple swap out of parts i would fix and keep it. But a 10 years washer is not worth spending over $200 and still not doing a good job cleaning.

GE Washer WHRE5550KWW... Mfr 2009

Biggest negatives have been high speed noisy spin. Lack of lint filter. Pump flowrate is too high for drain pipe size. Whoever dreamed up their agitator-free method did it by theory and did not see that it does not work in normal clothes. Any one of these are reasons i would avoid it.

Will start new thread now

Maybe a lesson to learn here is that it can be risky to buy things
that deviate from the tried and true designs? I've never seen an
agitator-free model, except for front loaders, but then I haven't been
looking at washers in a long, long time. Seems to me, agitation is a good
and necessary thing. I would suspect a big potential problem today is
that manufacturer's are being pushed or forced to use less and less
water and energy.

On Thu, 5 Sep 2019 07:42:41 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, September 5, 2019 at 10:01:47 AM UTC-4, WGUV wrote:
The only thing i like about this model is i only replaced one low cost electrical part at least 5 years ago and cant remember even what it was. If this failure had been a simple swap out of parts i would fix and keep it. But a 10 years washer is not worth spending over $200 and still not doing a good job cleaning.

GE Washer WHRE5550KWW... Mfr 2009

Biggest negatives have been high speed noisy spin. Lack of lint filter. Pump flowrate is too high for drain pipe size. Whoever dreamed up their agitator-free method did it by theory and did not see that it does not work in normal clothes. Any one of these are reasons i would avoid it.

Will start new thread now

Maybe a lesson to learn here is that it can be risky to buy things
that deviate from the tried and true designs? I've never seen an
agitator-free model, except for front loaders, but then I haven't been
looking at washers in a long, long time. Seems to me, agitation is a good
and necessary thing. I would suspect a big potential problem today is
that manufacturer's are being pushed or forced to use less and less
water and energy.

I've avoided agitator free models for that reason. The biggest problem is even "bad"
washers usually usually outlast the lifetime of the reviews. "Discontinued."
I bought a GE model WJRE5500G1WW 12 years ago that's still working fine.
But when my basement flooded 5 years ago I spent about $300 for a new motor and
shaft/clutch, so I count 5 years service. And that model is "discontinued."

In article ,
says...

Maybe a lesson to learn here is that it can be risky to buy things
that deviate from the tried and true designs? I've never seen an
agitator-free model, except for front loaders, but then I haven't been
looking at washers in a long, long time. Seems to me, agitation is a good
and necessary thing. I would suspect a big potential problem today is
that manufacturer's are being pushed or forced to use less and less
water and energy.



We bought a Maytag top loading washer a few months back. I don't think
you could call the thing that sticks up about 3 inches an agitator.
Atleast not what I am think of that goes up and down. This machine has
a clear top. Youcan see the cloths just swishing back and forth.

That thing sure makes funny noises as it works. It messes aorund for a
short time to weigh the cloths and then puts in the ammount of water it
thinks it needs. Only thing it does like the old one is spin dry.

I hope it holds together. It does say a 10 year wattenty on the motor.



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Good to hear the comments. If my ge had cleaned well i would soend $$$ ti fix. But poor service *and* expensive repairs and ge recommending replacing after ten years...... Duheeee....

FYi, heres a trouble chart for the motor. Easy to check, will post the results when i get over the urge to **** on it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6k2STiay2mI

Computers and software have their place but not in washers... or just about anywhere else.

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 5 Sep 2019 07:01:41 -0700 (PDT), WGUV
wrote:


Biggest negatives have been high speed noisy spin. Lack of lint filter. Pum=

Mine, a Sears whirlpool made in 1979, doesn't have a lint filter either.
The manual says it has a lint chopper. Maybe yours has that too.

This might be good, but I'm one of 4 houses where when the stream nearby
is at flood stage, it overflows the sewer manhole cover in the middle of
the extended stream bed, and it backs up into my basement. I put in a
one-way valve in sink drain but it didn't work, I think because chopped
up lint kept the door from closing all the way.

If I lived somewhere else, a lint chopper would be okay with me,
assuming they are legal and afaik they are.

p flowrate is too high for drain pipe size. Whoever dreamed up their agitat=
or-free method did it by theory and did not see that it does not work in no=
rmal clothes. Any one of these are reasons i would avoid it.

Will start new thread now

If it has no agitator, how does it push the soapy water through the
clothing?

Do you mean it has one of those vertical things with fins going one
direction, so the clothing tumbles?

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 5 Sep 2019 18:06:27 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

Maybe a lesson to learn here is that it can be risky to buy things
that deviate from the tried and true designs? I've never seen an
agitator-free model, except for front loaders, but then I haven't been
looking at washers in a long, long time. Seems to me, agitation is a good
and necessary thing. I would suspect a big potential problem today is
that manufacturer's are being pushed or forced to use less and less
water and energy.



We bought a Maytag top loading washer a few months back. I don't think
you could call the thing that sticks up about 3 inches an agitator.
Atleast not what I am think of that goes up and down. This machine has
a clear top. Youcan see the cloths just swishing back and forth.

That thing sure makes funny noises as it works. It messes aorund for a
short time to weigh the cloths and then puts in the ammount of water it
thinks it needs. Only thing it does like the old one is spin dry.

I hope it holds together. It does say a 10 year wattenty on the motor.

That sounds very good. AIUI, if it fails in less than 10 years, you get
a free watten.