In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 3 Sep 2019 22:22:46 -0700 (PDT), WGUV
wrote:

Not spinning or agitating. Timer, water on/off ok.

Is this a mechanical timer? If so, that it advances and powers some
functions doesn't mean that the switch powering the the motor is
working. Is there power at the motor when the timer is calling for
agitation? (Actually the same question still applies if it has an
electronic timer.) IOW, how do you know the timer is good, just because
it ticks away to the end of the cycle? Not enough.

All checked out ok so far: door lift switch, level sensing tube and pressure switch, fuse, all connections good. Motor belt ok.

Tomorrow will check out motor. Any other idears what the trouble cause is?

This guys videos are excellent...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=8m29s&v=h99L254vPK8

A) I wouldn't "cut the end" off an extension cord. I'd be more like
to cut the plug and one foot of wire off the extension cord, then add a
plug to the whats left of it, so I'd still have an extesion cod and a
one foot cheater cord to use the way he wants you to.

B) I'd have to think about it some more but I almost certainly wouldn't
cut all four wires. At most I'd cut the ones for the first test. if
they determine that the motor is bad, why cut the other two, just to
determine the same thing?

But I doubt I'd cut any. 40 years ago I bought box of 10**
insulation-piercing alligator clips. They have many uses. Two of them
I connected to a cheater cord like he wants you to make, but better. One
use would be to power the motor without cutting anything ---AFTER I
unplugged the washer and AFTER I deterimined that sending power
backwards from where he wants you to cut the wire would not hurt
anything. On first blush now, I don't think it would.

**They only sold them in boxes of 10


I also have two of my insulation piercing alligator clips on a simple
jumper wire. Before applying power to the motor, I think I would pierce
the inulation and see if there is power to the motor when it's in the
agitate or spin section of the cycle. AFTER making sure the machine is
plugged in and turned on and in the right cycle stage.


I don't like the idea of depending on butt connectors. I think it's
possible to think you've done a good job of crimping and find that it
falls apart when you're not looking.

But it's also not super-easy to apply the in-piercing clips. You may
well have to supplement the spring by manual squeezing (although less
likely maybe since the new clips are better than mine), and I think it's
possible to close the clips while missing the wires. The ohmmeter
function allows you to see if you've hit the wires.


Well, they don't seem to sell clips quite as cheap as the ones I bought
40 years ago. New ones might work better. Most come with wires
attached now.
https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...t-leads/1.html
This seems like the same as above, but without the wires, strangely for
the same price. I'd buy the ones with wires for the same price:
https://www.allelectronics.com/item/...t-clips/1.html

Amazon has an array of other stuff, much of this is not
insluation-piercing, and some does pierce but it's only a needle that
attacheds to a banana plug, so you'd need a wire or two with a banana
plug. Most of them have wires attached, and none are like what I
bought. I guess 40 years make a difference.

Several other good videos. However a couple are wrong so use your own experience. The wiring diagram was in a pocket inside control panel, left side.