I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

"lbbs" wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

I haven't tried it yet, but I keep eyeing a similar redirection. The oil
tank for my home heating is above ground, very near where the dryer vent
exits. On extreme cold days (teens, single digits), water in the tank will
occasionally freeze up and block the fuel feed. I've been toying with the
idea of extending the vent to encase the tank feed. Hmmm.

Joe F.

On 6-Jan-2004, "lbbs" wrote:

I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

My bro-in-law does that. But we live in New Mexico where excessive
humidity is far from being a problem. It does add humidity to the room
but in this climate it's a blessing. Our average humidity is 30% with
days dropping to single digits.

The drying time doesn't seem to be a problem at all.

"lbbs" wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks




I don't remember exactly where, but I do remember seeing a pipe/hose
contraption that connected to the dryer's outlet and then to the vent to the
outside and had a little slider that allowed you to open and close it. When
closed, the dryer's exhaust went through the thing to the outside and when
open it simply vented it into the room. The handy part was that it was tall
so that the open/closing thing was above the height of the dryer so it was
easy to use.

Probably google-able.

trebor

Dumping uncontrolled humidity and lint-filled air into a home is a bad idea.
If you do, I hope the dryer is electric!
--
Best Regards,
Dennis J Sunday
Home Inspection Systems
Www.homeinspectionsystems.com

"lbbs" wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

First of all, you can't do this safely if you have a gas
dryer, because the carbon monoxide fumes from the gas
combustion are vented along with the hot air.

Second, I doubt the extra humidity in the room would be an
issue, because humidity is usually much lower in the winter
when you would want to reclaim heat from the dryer.

Third, there are products on the market which do what you
want. See, e.g.:

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/energysu...tdryerhea.html
http://www.cetsolar.com/extraheat.htm
http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop...lecto/ex12.htm
http://www.audio-etcetera.com/prod.itml/icOid/107528

The local Home Improvement center might have the diverter/filter you need. I'd
only do this with an electric dryer though.

It's a plastic box you connect in the hose, with a flap and a handle to choose
where to divert the exhaust to - inside or outside.

The "inside" outlet connects to another hose which dumps the warm moist air
into a little container which has a fine lint filter and water on the bottom.
Microscopic lint is trapped when it hits the water, and the warm moist air
skims across the top of the water and out while passing through yet another
nylon-stocking type filter.

lbbs wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks



Years ago I just let the dryer (electric) vent into the room since there was
no way to install a vent pipe. Right away I found that a filter (nylon
stocking) was needed to help control the lint and dust; but the humidity was
not a problem. The outside temperature, house construction and number of
loads would, of course, make a difference. It's not a good idea to load
your walls up with moisture if you have many below-freezing days ahead.

Some catalogs that advertise houshold help gadgets used to show a damper
device that could be set to blow the dryer output back into the room and, as
I recall, it had a built-in filter. Maybe those are still around.

TKM

"lbbs" wrote:

I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

Our compressor coil for the heat pump sits outside near the dryer vent. Every
few months I have to clean the fins on the side near the vent. No way would I
vent dryer air into a living space, unless it was super-filtered. With a basic
filter, the dust increase would be large, and the lung associations have
regularly shown that tiny particles of chemicals can be very damaging to the
lungs. Breathing in detergent and fabric softener isn't my cuppa tea.

A heat exchanger that would warm the incoming replacement air makes more sense
to me. For every cubic foot of air the dryer exhausts to the outside, it pulls
in a cubic foot of cold outside air - or in our case in south Florida, hot
humid outside air.

My electric dryer just blows against the cellar wall, so it's all
recycled energy except what sticks to the wall, which isn't a large
proportion. In fact I don't understand blowing it outside at all.

Of course I don't perfume the laundry. You can stink up an entire
neighborhood with dryer sheets so I can't imagine what it would be
like if confined indoors.
--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

"lbbs" wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks


My mother did it when I was younger. I would too if I knew how to do it
safely.

"lbbs" nonex wrote in message ...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks


One apartment I lived in had almost no insulation on the exterior walls.
The heating system was OK, but just couldn't keep up in winter, fighting
against all the cold that bled through the walls. We bought a lint filter
for the electric dryer for about $10. Basically, it's a bucket of water.
There is a cover on the bucket of water with several holes in it. One HUGE
hole is where you attatch the end of the dryer hose. Air from the dryer
hits the water in the bucket, where lint is trapped. Then the warm air with
lint removed exits the smaller holes in the side of the bucket cap. It will
raise the temperature of a ~1000 square foot apartment 2 - 4 degrees F,
while the dryer is running. It will also raise the humidity level to about
60% or so. It's not very effective, and overall not a good idea. At BEST,
the effect it has wears off in an hour or two after the clothes are dry.
You'd have to do about 70 loads of laundry a week in a small apartment to
notice any effect on your heating bill. -Dave

lbbs wrote:

I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

We have a condenser dryer, where there is no outside vent...the water
all goes into a reservoir, which we empty after each use. So the heat
does stay in the room, which is our laundry room/pantry. No problems
for us, not even damp on the walls.
--
It's Tis Herself

First this is not for gas dryers.

Second, be ready for increased dust in your home.

Personally I believe it is a bad idea. Have you even seen the stuff in
a vent pipe, even with a filter on it.

Be sure to vent to the home in general. Venting to the same room will
drive up the humidity in that room making the dryer less efficient.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math


"lbbs" wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

I have done this for installation where there was no place to run the vent
outside.. I purchased a special ventless dryer lint trap from an appliance
store..

Just putting a filter or screen on the end didn't work because it filled up
too fast and was clumsy to clean.. The commercial unit had a easy way to
clean the trap.. The moist air and heat stayed in the laundry room and the
windows would steam up.. The drying time was about 10% longer..

Steve

Dave C. wrote:
60% or so. It's not very effective, and overall not a good idea. At BEST,
the effect it has wears off in an hour or two after the clothes are dry.
You'd have to do about 70 loads of laundry a week in a small apartment to
notice any effect on your heating bill. -Dave

It has no effect on your heating bill, at least if you heat electrically and
it's an electric dryer. You get to run the dryer free though where if you vent
it outdoors it costs you to run it.
--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

According to Jonathan Kamens :

Second, I doubt the extra humidity in the room would be an
issue, because humidity is usually much lower in the winter
when you would want to reclaim heat from the dryer.

Hi Jon,

It depends on the circumstances.

Left for work with firm instructions to the SO to "leave the laundry door
open when you run the dryer!".

Half way thru the day, she called me in a panic because all the wallpaper
in the laundry room was sliding off the walls.

She forgot to keep the door open.

She remembers now ;-)
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

lbbs wrote:

I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks


My (electric) dryer was in my kitchen and in winter I never opened the
window to let it vent. The filter was very fine-meshed and there was no
dust or lint on any surfaces. The washing was always run through a
separate spinner, so it wasn't all that wet. The extra humidity wasn't
really a problem; only the window ever showed any condensation and that
disappeared in a few minutes after the dryer finished.

"Marty" wrote in message
m...
"Steve" wrote in message
...
I have done this for installation where there was no place to run the
vent
outside.. I purchased a special ventless dryer lint trap from an
appliance
store..

Just putting a filter or screen on the end didn't work because it filled
up
too fast and was clumsy to clean.. The commercial unit had a easy way to
clean the trap.. The moist air and heat stayed in the laundry room and
the
windows would steam up.. The drying time was about 10% longer..

Steve

Home Depot sells a hot air diverter that allows you to route the hot
air in or outside. It sells for ~$10 Canadian and is easy to install.
It works very well with my electric dryer. I place a piece of old
nylon stocking over the exhaust screen to filter fine lint. As the
winters in my area tend to be cold and dry, the additional heat and
humidity is welcome and I no longer need to run my furnace humidifier.
I typically minimize the amount of detergent and fabric softener used,
so the exhaust air smells clean but not overpowering.

I would recommended you thoroughly clean the dryer vent hose at least
1-2 times per year. If you decide to use a home made nylon filter like
i do, remove and clean the nylon with a lint brush between loads and
ensure you do not overdry your laundry. Also monitor your house
humidity and route the exhaust air outside if the house becomes too
humid to prevent moisture damage. I tend to space out my laundry
throughout the week, completing 2-3 loads at a time, to ensure a
steady output of humidity.

Hope this helps,

Marty
Edmonton Alberta Canada

As a fellow Edmontonian, let me point out that NO diversion...except to the
outdoors, should be made to the exhaust was a clothes dryer using natural
gas or propane as a fuel.

"rb608" wrote in message
...


I haven't tried it yet, but I keep eyeing a similar redirection. The oil
tank for my home heating is above ground, very near where the dryer vent
exits. On extreme cold days (teens, single digits), water in the tank
will
occasionally freeze up and block the fuel feed. I've been toying with the
idea of extending the vent to encase the tank feed. Hmmm.

It's probably not water in the fuel. All heating oil contains paraffin
(wax) dissolved in it. When the oil get cold, the wax freezes out, blocking
the fuel feed.

Marty wrote:
snip
Home Depot sells a hot air diverter that allows you to route the hot
air in or outside. It sells for ~$10 Canadian and is easy to install.
It works very well with my electric dryer. I place a piece of old
nylon stocking over the exhaust screen to filter fine lint. As the
winters in my area tend to be cold and dry, the additional heat and
humidity is welcome and I no longer need to run my furnace humidifier.
I typically minimize the amount of detergent and fabric softener used,
so the exhaust air smells clean but not overpowering.
snip

Thanks, Marty. I've been waiting for someone to post where to get one
of those. In the winter we keep a pot of water on the stove to keep
the humidity up. Your solution will really help.

Albert

"Heathcliff Bambino" wrote in message
om...


Go to the nearest gas station and pick up a couple bottles of gasline
antifreeze and dump them in your oil tank. It's an alcohol that mixes
with the water and prevents it from freezing. Your furnace can burn
it just fine. Do it whenever you get the tank filled.

Actually..no..
Alcohol absorbs water..and no, the furnace cant burn it just fine.
IF he was going to do this, and not simply use the tanks water drain plug he
would use a diesel mix....

BUT.....


Unless the furnace is stuttering, or tripping the control box for the CAD,
there isnt any water in the tank to worry about. The filter assembly will
separate the water, and trap it, and depending on his temps, its not water
freezing in the lines, but the fuel is waxing.

"lbbs" wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks




Lot of problems.

Lint, and lots of it.
Uncontrolled humidity release
If you have a gas dryer, CO release into the home.
And its against all codes now. There IS a reason for that.

As someone else suggested, if you are that worried about saving a buck, get
a heat recovery unit for your central air system, and have it installed.

"Albert" wrote in message
...
Marty wrote:
snip
Home Depot sells a hot air diverter that allows you to route the hot
air in or outside. It sells for ~$10 Canadian and is easy to install.
It works very well with my electric dryer. I place a piece of old
nylon stocking over the exhaust screen to filter fine lint. As the
winters in my area tend to be cold and dry, the additional heat and
humidity is welcome and I no longer need to run my furnace humidifier.
I typically minimize the amount of detergent and fabric softener used,
so the exhaust air smells clean but not overpowering.
snip

Thanks, Marty. I've been waiting for someone to post where to get one
of those. In the winter we keep a pot of water on the stove to keep
the humidity up. Your solution will really help.

Albert


Get one while you can....mechanical code prohibits the use of these in most
areas that follow the IBC, and many stores here no longer carry them.
Thankfully...

"Albert" wrote in message
...
Marty wrote:
snip
Home Depot sells a hot air diverter that allows you to route the hot
air in or outside. It sells for ~$10 Canadian and is easy to install.
It works very well with my electric dryer. I place a piece of old
nylon stocking over the exhaust screen to filter fine lint. As the
winters in my area tend to be cold and dry, the additional heat and
humidity is welcome and I no longer need to run my furnace humidifier.
I typically minimize the amount of detergent and fabric softener used,
so the exhaust air smells clean but not overpowering.
snip

Thanks, Marty. I've been waiting for someone to post where to get one
of those. In the winter we keep a pot of water on the stove to keep
the humidity up. Your solution will really help.

Albert

Cheaper to simply not drain the bathtub until next time the tub is needed.
Surface area of water in tub is much greater than pot on stove.

Jonathan Kamens wrote:
First of all, you can't do this safely if you have a gas
dryer, because the carbon monoxide fumes from the gas
combustion are vented along with the hot air.

Hope this isn't a dumb question - bear with me if it is. I'm just
puzzled is all, and a real mechanical dweeb when it comes to stuff
like this.

I have both a gas clothes dryer and a gas stove ... (also gas furnace
and gas water heater), but here's the question ... if there are
dangerous carbon monoxide fumes that are released from a gas dryer
due to gas combustion, how come I don't have that problem when I use the
gas stove and gas oven? Or do I? Am I supposed to be venting the fumes
from my gas stove elements to the outside someplace? If so, nobody ever
told me that - it's been over 8 years without a problem. I *do* have the
gas dryer vented to outside, and the furnace as well - just not the
stove or the water heater.

thanks for any explanation offered.

ing

in article , Arri London at wrote
on 1/6/04 7:05 PM:

lbbs wrote:

I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks


My (electric) dryer was in my kitchen and in winter I never opened the
window to let it vent. The filter was very fine-meshed and there was no
dust or lint on any surfaces. The washing was always run through a
separate spinner, so it wasn't all that wet. The extra humidity wasn't
really a problem; only the window ever showed any condensation and that
disappeared in a few minutes after the dryer finished.

In climates where the winter is cold and dry (like MN & WI) having the extra
humidity and heat inside is a boon, but you want to be able to switch it
back to venting outside in summer, 'cause then the heat and humidity are a
drag. Also want to monitor the humidity-get a humidistat. They're pretty
cheap. You don't want the humidity to get over 50% if you can help it.
That can do damage to your house, as well as encouraging dust mites and
mold.

I've seen indoor dryer vent attachments in Home Trends (a catalog). I think
they have a website.

Chris OE

--

"ing" wrote in message
. ..
Jonathan Kamens wrote:
First of all, you can't do this safely if you have a gas
dryer, because the carbon monoxide fumes from the gas
combustion are vented along with the hot air.

Hope this isn't a dumb question - bear with me if it is. I'm just
puzzled is all, and a real mechanical dweeb when it comes to stuff
like this.

I have both a gas clothes dryer and a gas stove ... (also gas furnace
and gas water heater), but here's the question ... if there are
dangerous carbon monoxide fumes that are released from a gas dryer
due to gas combustion, how come I don't have that problem when I use the
gas stove and gas oven? Or do I? Am I supposed to be venting the fumes
from my gas stove elements to the outside someplace? If so, nobody ever
told me that - it's been over 8 years without a problem. I *do* have the
gas dryer vented to outside, and the furnace as well - just not the
stove or the water heater.

Don't know about gas stoves BUT not having a water heater vented?? I thought
even the super efficient ones (gas powered) were vented.


thanks for any explanation offered.

ing

According to Lou :

"rb608" wrote in message
...

I haven't tried it yet, but I keep eyeing a similar redirection. The oil
tank for my home heating is above ground, very near where the dryer vent
exits. On extreme cold days (teens, single digits), water in the tank
will
occasionally freeze up and block the fuel feed. I've been toying with the
idea of extending the vent to encase the tank feed. Hmmm.

It's probably not water in the fuel. All heating oil contains paraffin
(wax) dissolved in it. When the oil get cold, the wax freezes out, blocking
the fuel feed.

Heating oil (and diesel) _is_ essentially "paraffin wax" -
it's just that it's (supposed to be) above its melting point.

In more extreme climates, you have to pay attention, because normal "summer
weight" fuel oils and diesels can freeze at 10-15F. With a result that looks
very much like candle wax. Normal winter weight is usually more like -35F,
but in some cases you need it even lower than that.

I used to work in a refinery lab, and one of the tests we routinely did
was check freeze points on fuel oils and diesel fuels.

The OP may wish to consider discussing with his fuel oil supplier what he's
getting. They should be able to give him the exact specifications. He may
have to pay attention to what the supplier is providing in any particular
season, and judging whether he'll be using the summer weight stuff up before
it gets that cold. Then again, a good supplier should be taking his usage
patterns into consideration when he fills the tank, and not "pushing"
summer weight into the winter.

If the problem recurs this winter, a top up of winter-weight may solve
the problem.

Extending the vent (and/or tenting it with plastic, say) may be a good
solution until you get the situation settled.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

According to Sharix :

"ing" wrote in message
. ..
from my gas stove elements to the outside someplace? If so, nobody ever
told me that - it's been over 8 years without a problem. I *do* have the
gas dryer vented to outside, and the furnace as well - just not the
stove or the water heater.

Don't know about gas stoves BUT not having a water heater vented?? I thought
even the super efficient ones (gas powered) were vented.

I've never heard of one that wasn't. The high efficiency types often have
plastic pipe vents sticking out a wall, and may not appear to be vented to
those who're not familiar with the new units.

Gas stoves/ovens don't need to be vented nearly as much as furnaces
or water heaters simply because they don't burn nearly as much gas
to operate. Secondly, furnaces and water heaters tend to be more
enclosed, leading to more likely "pooling" of CO.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On 7 Jan 2004 04:02:44 GMT, (Chris Lewis) wrote:

Secondly, furnaces and water heaters tend to be more
enclosed, leading to more likely "pooling" of CO.

"pooling"?
I thougt it had to do with too much recycling of the combustion makeup air.

--
-john


~~~~~~~~
Always listen to experts. They will explain what
can't be done and why. Then do it. - Robert Heinlein
~~~~~~~~

"lbbs" wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks


Ya, I did . . . first I used one of those plastic box things that you flip a
lever and air is vented either outside or through a wire screen fliter.
Then I just disconnected the exhaust hose and used a rubber band to hold a
large pillowcase over the end, and ya, that worked better.
Usually in winter, indoor humidity levels get pretty low, so I don't think
there will be much problem with extra drying time. I didn't have any
problem. All ya gotta do is turn the pillowcase inside out once a month
and run it through the washer, and you'll be golden . . .
--Tock

On Wed, 07 Jan 2004 07:14:35 GMT, wrote:

Usually in winter, indoor humidity levels get pretty low,

Storm windows can greatly alleviate humidity loss.

I make mine on a frame of 5/8 inch unfinished bolding stock,
mitred, glued, and stapled at the corners. Then 3 mil acetate sheet is
stretched over the frame and stapled down. Finally, foam weather stripping
is attached around the frame's perimeter, to make a tight seal against the
window casing.
--
-john


~~~~~~~~
Always listen to experts. They will explain what
can't be done and why. Then do it. - Robert Heinlein
~~~~~~~~

"lbbs" wrote in message
...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

I tried it once....The entire room from floor to ceiling was one drippy wet
mess.
Horrible.

~^Johnny^~ wrote:

I make mine on a frame of 5/8 inch unfinished bolding stock,
mitred, glued, and stapled at the corners. Then 3 mil acetate sheet is
stretched over the frame and stapled down. Finally, foam weather stripping
is attached around the frame's perimeter, to make a tight seal against the
window casing.

How do you fasten it to the window casing? Just screws?

---
Signature has been removed to save disk space.

We bought a cheap unit at Home Depot that filtered out the link and allowed
the warm air to circulate through the house. But it also circulates a lot of
humidity. We took it off and wouldn't recommend it.

Paull wrote in message
...

On 6-Jan-2004, "lbbs" wrote:

I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house
would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not
be
a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

My bro-in-law does that. But we live in New Mexico where excessive
humidity is far from being a problem. It does add humidity to the room
but in this climate it's a blessing. Our average humidity is 30% with
days dropping to single digits.

The drying time doesn't seem to be a problem at all.




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"lbbs" wrote in message ...
I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks

don't do it. Air from dryers is saturated with micro fibers from
clothing. This is NOT good stuff to breathe.

If ur looking to save power, hang laundry to dry.

"Dave, Chris & Ben Oinonen Ehren" wrote:

in article , Arri London at wrote
on 1/6/04 7:05 PM:

lbbs wrote:

I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might not be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks


My (electric) dryer was in my kitchen and in winter I never opened the
window to let it vent. The filter was very fine-meshed and there was no
dust or lint on any surfaces. The washing was always run through a
separate spinner, so it wasn't all that wet. The extra humidity wasn't
really a problem; only the window ever showed any condensation and that
disappeared in a few minutes after the dryer finished.

In climates where the winter is cold and dry (like MN & WI) having the extra
humidity and heat inside is a boon, but you want to be able to switch it
back to venting outside in summer, 'cause then the heat and humidity are a
drag. Also want to monitor the humidity-get a humidistat. They're pretty
cheap. You don't want the humidity to get over 50% if you can help it.
That can do damage to your house, as well as encouraging dust mites and
mold.

That wasn't really a problem in London. Outside humidity can easily be
50 percent or more on a regular basis. As for dust mites and moulds,
keeping the house clean really does minimise those problems.
LOL not to mention my flat was in a 260+-year old church. Any wood was
buried within metre-thick walls of stone and later concrete. The floors
were also concrete about 2 foot thick. Mould was never an issue.


I've seen indoor dryer vent attachments in Home Trends (a catalog). I think
they have a website.

Chris OE

--

"Arri London" wrote in message
...
"Dave, Chris & Ben Oinonen Ehren" wrote:

in article , Arri London at
wrote
on 1/6/04 7:05 PM:

lbbs wrote:

I imagine putting some find of a filter at the end of the vent house
would
do the trick, and direct the vent into the laundry room. Some one
mentioned that the added humidity in the room might actually make the
drying
process take longer (it need dry air). Although in my case might
not be a
problem because the room is very large (24x24). Anyone ever tried
this,
did it work good, any problems? Thanks


My (electric) dryer was in my kitchen and in winter I never opened the
window to let it vent. The filter was very fine-meshed and there was
no
dust or lint on any surfaces. The washing was always run through a
separate spinner, so it wasn't all that wet. The extra humidity wasn't
really a problem; only the window ever showed any condensation and
that
disappeared in a few minutes after the dryer finished.

In climates where the winter is cold and dry (like MN & WI) having the
extra
humidity and heat inside is a boon, but you want to be able to switch it
back to venting outside in summer, 'cause then the heat and humidity are
a
drag. Also want to monitor the humidity-get a humidistat. They're
pretty
cheap. You don't want the humidity to get over 50% if you can help it.
That can do damage to your house, as well as encouraging dust mites and
mold.

That wasn't really a problem in London. Outside humidity can easily be
50 percent or more on a regular basis. As for dust mites and moulds,
keeping the house clean really does minimise those problems.
LOL not to mention my flat was in a 260+-year old church. Any wood was
buried within metre-thick walls of stone and later concrete. The floors
were also concrete about 2 foot thick. Mould was never an issue.

How do they run plumbing and wiring and ductwork in such a structure?




I've seen indoor dryer vent attachments in Home Trends (a catalog). I
think
they have a website.

Chris OE

--

I am suppose that heat can be captured or recycled back into inside air, not
by actually blowing vent air inside house but by sending it throu a coil of
pipes with heatsinks that would take heat from the hot air passing through
it and radiate it back into room. I have seen a similar technique using for
allowing air ventalation from inside to outside by exchanging the heat
energy from from to exhaust by conduction through metal.

"~^Johnny^~" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 07 Jan 2004 07:14:35 GMT, wrote:

Usually in winter, indoor humidity levels get pretty low,

Storm windows can greatly alleviate humidity loss.

I make mine on a frame of 5/8 inch unfinished bolding stock,
mitred, glued, and stapled at the corners. Then 3 mil acetate sheet is
stretched over the frame and stapled down. Finally, foam weather
stripping
is attached around the frame's perimeter, to make a tight seal against
the
window casing.
--
-john


~~~~~~~~
Always listen to experts. They will explain what
can't be done and why. Then do it. - Robert Heinlein
~~~~~~~~