These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

On 03/31/2016 09:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239




They are of limited usefulness.

If the screw is locked to the point of having it's head break off, one
of those extractors will not work.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:06 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:

On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

Yes, easy out was the first term I heard, a brand name presumably.

Do they actually work?

--
Computers can never replace human stupidity.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:55 +0100, philo wrote:

On 03/31/2016 09:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

They are of limited usefulness.

If the screw is locked to the point of having it's head break off, one
of those extractors will not work.

Often the screw head breaks off because it's rusty. Or more often, the head has not snapped off, but you've damaged the phillips shape etc.

--
Computers can never replace human stupidity.

On 03/31/2016 09:37 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:55 +0100, philo wrote:

On 03/31/2016 09:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

They are of limited usefulness.

If the screw is locked to the point of having it's head break off, one
of those extractors will not work.

Often the screw head breaks off because it's rusty. Or more often, the
head has not snapped off, but you've damaged the phillips shape etc.




If it's rusty, no harm in trying penetrating oil.


If the screw is not seized up but the slot is simply stripped, the
extractor may very well work.

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 7:27:02 AM UTC-7, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Have a set from Snap-On, but have rarely use them. Usually, after drilling thru a busted bolt or whatever, the harden steel extractor breaks off making the problem way worse (time for a carbide bit)
The problem comes because the hole ya drilled went off center and into the structure, preventing the proper use of the tool.
Extracting busted bolts is an "art"
I'd suggest buying a set of "reverse" Cobalt drills.
These usually work if you drill straight down thur the "problem" (unless it's hopeless rusted in place)

"Mr Macaw" wrote in message news
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:06 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke
wrote:

On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

Yes, easy out was the first term I heard, a brand name presumably.

Do they actually work?

--

They work fine in some cases. If the bolt is rusted in to where the
origional head twisted out, they may not work unless you soak the bolt wth
some penetrating oil over night. Then it may be doubtful.

At work we had some rotating machinery that would shear off the bolt heads
and they worked fine for removing them. Sometimes the bolts with hex heads
or other sloted heads would wear out and while the bolt was tight , it was
not rusted in. They work fine for that also.

One of the tricks is to make sure the hole you drill is centered in the
bolt. We often used 'left hand' drill bits to drill the hole and sometimes
the bolts would spin out while doing the drilling.

On 3/31/2016 7:36 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:06 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke
wrote:

On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

Yes, easy out was the first term I heard, a brand name presumably.

Do they actually work?


Sir, pay no heed to these other "fantasy" handymen. I can assure you
they work just fine, but not alone, mind you. One must first create a
depression in the surface of that which is to be extracted, so that the
easy out can burrow deep within and take purchase.

On 3/31/2016 7:48 AM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:
On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 7:27:02 AM UTC-7, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Have a set from Snap-On, but have rarely use them. Usually, after drilling thru a busted bolt or whatever, the harden steel extractor breaks off making the problem way worse (time for a carbide bit)
The problem comes because the hole ya drilled went off center and into the structure, preventing the proper use of the tool.
Extracting busted bolts is an "art"
I'd suggest buying a set of "reverse" Cobalt drills.
These usually work if you drill straight down thur the "problem" (unless it's hopeless(sic) rusted in place)


Honestly! Despicable grammar!

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 10:48:04 AM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 03/31/2016 09:37 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:55 +0100, philo wrote:

On 03/31/2016 09:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

They are of limited usefulness.

If the screw is locked to the point of having it's head break off, one
of those extractors will not work.

Often the screw head breaks off because it's rusty. Or more often, the
head has not snapped off, but you've damaged the phillips shape etc.




If it's rusty, no harm in trying penetrating oil.


If the screw is not seized up but the slot is simply stripped, the
extractor may very well work.

Honda uses short #3 Phillips screws to hold their rotors on during assembly
at the factory. By the time you need to change the rotors, the screws are
often seized in the hub. YouTube has all sorts of videos showing the "best"
technique for getting them out. Of course, the "best" technique differs
from video to video.

I've never tried a screw extractor but I've have drilled the heads off
of one set of rotor screws (8 screws total).

In all other cases (10 rotors in total) I've been able to get them out
by using the the following method:

1 - Spray the screws with PB Blaster and let it work for a few hours
2 - Put a vice grip on the shaft of a #3 Phillips screwdriver
3 - With the screwdriver held firmly in the screw, rap the end of the
handle with a hammer while using the vice grips to apply turning torque
on the screw.

After a few raps, they tend to (hopefully) break free.

Honda rotors (and many aftermarket rotors for Honda) also have threaded
holes in their rotors so you can screw a bolt in against the hub and pop
the rotor off.

Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:06 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke
wrote:
On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

Yes, easy out was the first term I heard, a brand name presumably.

Do they actually work?

They work IF you can drill a hole into the screw so you can insert them.
Big "if".

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 11:23:33 AM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Mr Macaw" wrote in message news
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:06 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke
wrote:

On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

Yes, easy out was the first term I heard, a brand name presumably.

Do they actually work?

--

They work fine in some cases. If the bolt is rusted in to where the
origional head twisted out, they may not work unless you soak the bolt wth
some penetrating oil over night. Then it may be doubtful.

At work we had some rotating machinery that would shear off the bolt heads
and they worked fine for removing them. Sometimes the bolts with hex heads
or other sloted heads would wear out and while the bolt was tight , it was
not rusted in. They work fine for that also.

One of the tricks is to make sure the hole you drill is centered in the
bolt. We often used 'left hand' drill bits to drill the hole and sometimes
the bolts would spin out while doing the drilling.

+1

I've used them with success. Someone commented that if the bolt is so
stuck that the head twisted off, then the screw extractor can't help.
That ignores the fact that with smaller bolts at least, the hole you
drill helps relieve the holding pressure on the bolt.

On 03/31/2016 10:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 10:48:04 AM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 03/31/2016 09:37 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:55 +0100, philo wrote:

On 03/31/2016 09:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

They are of limited usefulness.

If the screw is locked to the point of having it's head break off, one
of those extractors will not work.

Often the screw head breaks off because it's rusty. Or more often, the
head has not snapped off, but you've damaged the phillips shape etc.




If it's rusty, no harm in trying penetrating oil.


If the screw is not seized up but the slot is simply stripped, the
extractor may very well work.

Honda uses short #3 Phillips screws to hold their rotors on during assembly
at the factory. By the time you need to change the rotors, the screws are
often seized in the hub. YouTube has all sorts of videos showing the "best"
technique for getting them out. Of course, the "best" technique differs
from video to video.

I've never tried a screw extractor but I've have drilled the heads off
of one set of rotor screws (8 screws total).

In all other cases (10 rotors in total) I've been able to get them out
by using the the following method:

1 - Spray the screws with PB Blaster and let it work for a few hours
2 - Put a vice grip on the shaft of a #3 Phillips screwdriver
3 - With the screwdriver held firmly in the screw, rap the end of the
handle with a hammer while using the vice grips to apply turning torque
on the screw.

After a few raps, they tend to (hopefully) break free.

Honda rotors (and many aftermarket rotors for Honda) also have threaded
holes in their rotors so you can screw a bolt in against the hub and pop
the rotor off.




If the parts can take it, often heating with a propane torch will loosen
things up.

OD expands a fraction more than ID

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 17:57:49 +0100, philo wrote:

On 03/31/2016 10:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 10:48:04 AM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 03/31/2016 09:37 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:55 +0100, philo wrote:

On 03/31/2016 09:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

They are of limited usefulness.

If the screw is locked to the point of having it's head break off, one
of those extractors will not work.

Often the screw head breaks off because it's rusty. Or more often, the
head has not snapped off, but you've damaged the phillips shape etc.




If it's rusty, no harm in trying penetrating oil.


If the screw is not seized up but the slot is simply stripped, the
extractor may very well work.

Honda uses short #3 Phillips screws to hold their rotors on during assembly
at the factory. By the time you need to change the rotors, the screws are
often seized in the hub. YouTube has all sorts of videos showing the "best"
technique for getting them out. Of course, the "best" technique differs
from video to video.

I've never tried a screw extractor but I've have drilled the heads off
of one set of rotor screws (8 screws total).

In all other cases (10 rotors in total) I've been able to get them out
by using the the following method:

1 - Spray the screws with PB Blaster and let it work for a few hours
2 - Put a vice grip on the shaft of a #3 Phillips screwdriver
3 - With the screwdriver held firmly in the screw, rap the end of the
handle with a hammer while using the vice grips to apply turning torque
on the screw.

After a few raps, they tend to (hopefully) break free.

Honda rotors (and many aftermarket rotors for Honda) also have threaded
holes in their rotors so you can screw a bolt in against the hub and pop
the rotor off.




If the parts can take it, often heating with a propane torch will loosen
things up.

OD expands a fraction more than ID

I did that on car wheelnuts once. I think it worked, I can't remember, I tried so many things. The final solution, as they kept tightening during driving, was to get a very long breaker bar and jump up and down on the end of it.

--
After Saddam was captured, eight people were killed and almost
80 wounded by shots fired in the air during celebrations
of the capture.

On 3/31/2016 10:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239


They work much of the time, but not perfect. Usually bet to try other
means first. Penetrating oil, heat

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 18:15:48 +0100, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 3/31/2016 10:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239


They work much of the time, but not perfect. Usually bet to try other
means first. Penetrating oil, heat

In every occurrence I've had, I've broken the slot/pz shape on the top of it, so I need to grab it with something other than a screwdriver. But oil and heat aswell is a good idea.

Is penetrating oil flammable?

--
You are the only person I know that has ever had a brain tumour removed from their arse.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 16:58:53 +0100, dadiOH wrote:

Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:06 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke
wrote:
On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

Yes, easy out was the first term I heard, a brand name presumably.

Do they actually work?

They work IF you can drill a hole into the screw so you can insert them.
Big "if".

Why would that be a problem?

--
Uncle Larry was smoking in a restaurant the other day when a guy came up to him and said, "That smoke's bothering me."
Larry said, "Well, it's killing me. If I don't care about what it's doing to me, why would I give a **** what it's doing to you?"

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 16:41:24 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:

On 3/31/2016 7:48 AM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:
On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 7:27:02 AM UTC-7, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Have a set from Snap-On, but have rarely use them. Usually, after drilling thru a busted bolt or whatever, the harden steel extractor breaks off making the problem way worse (time for a carbide bit)
The problem comes because the hole ya drilled went off center and into the structure, preventing the proper use of the tool.
Extracting busted bolts is an "art"
I'd suggest buying a set of "reverse" Cobalt drills.
These usually work if you drill straight down thur the "problem" (unless it's hopeless(sic) rusted in place)


Honestly! Despicable grammar!

This is not alt.usage.english.

--
Mrs. Jones is having her house painted, and her husband comes home from work and leans against the freshly painted wall.
The next day, she says to the painter, "You wanna see where my husband put his hand last night?"
He sighs and says, "Look lady, I got a tough day's work ahead of me. Why don't you just make us a cup of tea?"

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:48:42 +0100, Shade Tree Guy wrote:

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 7:27:02 AM UTC-7, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Have a set from Snap-On, but have rarely use them. Usually, after drilling thru a busted bolt or whatever, the harden steel extractor breaks off making the problem way worse (time for a carbide bit)
The problem comes because the hole ya drilled went off center and into the structure, preventing the proper use of the tool.
Extracting busted bolts is an "art"
I'd suggest buying a set of "reverse" Cobalt drills.
These usually work if you drill straight down thur the "problem" (unless it's hopeless rusted in place)

A bench drill may be helpful I guess. Or several people holding the drill straight.

--
Mrs. Jones is having her house painted, and her husband comes home from work and leans against the freshly painted wall.
The next day, she says to the painter, "You wanna see where my husband put his hand last night?"
He sighs and says, "Look lady, I got a tough day's work ahead of me. Why don't you just make us a cup of tea?"

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 16:38:05 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:

On 3/31/2016 7:36 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:06 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke
wrote:

On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

Yes, easy out was the first term I heard, a brand name presumably.

Do they actually work?


Sir, pay no heed to these other "fantasy" handymen. I can assure you
they work just fine, but not alone, mind you. One must first create a
depression in the surface of that which is to be extracted, so that the
easy out can burrow deep within and take purchase.

Are you not meant to drill all the way in so the easy out isn't tapping at all?

--
Top Tip. If someone shoves your feet in a fire, quickly put your head in a bucket of iced water. On average, you will be pretty comfortable.

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 1:24:01 PM UTC-4, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 16:38:05 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:

On 3/31/2016 7:36 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:06 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke
wrote:

On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

Yes, easy out was the first term I heard, a brand name presumably.

Do they actually work?


Sir, pay no heed to these other "fantasy" handymen. I can assure you
they work just fine, but not alone, mind you. One must first create a
depression in the surface of that which is to be extracted, so that the
easy out can burrow deep within and take purchase.

Are you not meant to drill all the way in so the easy out isn't tapping at all?



Depression? You drill a HOLE for the easy out.

On 03/31/2016 12:14 PM, Mr Macaw wrote:
X
After a few raps, they tend to (hopefully) break free.

Honda rotors (and many aftermarket rotors for Honda) also have threaded
holes in their rotors so you can screw a bolt in against the hub and pop
the rotor off.




If the parts can take it, often heating with a propane torch will loosen
things up.

OD expands a fraction more than ID

I did that on car wheelnuts once. I think it worked, I can't remember,
I tried so many things. The final solution, as they kept tightening
during driving, was to get a very long breaker bar and jump up and down
on the end of it.




I've used the heating technique successfully many times for slightly
rusted nuts and bolts.


There was one time I had to remove a tire soon after I had a flat fixed.
They *way* over-tightened it so I put a long pipe on the end of my
"four-way" and ended up bending it all to hell.


I took the car back and told them thy put the wheel on too tightly,
then showed them my twisted "four-way" and said: "and I am NOT a weakling."


I later got a much better quality "four-way" my original was kind of a
cheap piece of crap.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:03:15 +0100, philo wrote:

On 03/31/2016 12:14 PM, Mr Macaw wrote:
X
After a few raps, they tend to (hopefully) break free.

Honda rotors (and many aftermarket rotors for Honda) also have threaded
holes in their rotors so you can screw a bolt in against the hub and pop
the rotor off.




If the parts can take it, often heating with a propane torch will loosen
things up.

OD expands a fraction more than ID

I did that on car wheelnuts once. I think it worked, I can't remember,
I tried so many things. The final solution, as they kept tightening
during driving, was to get a very long breaker bar and jump up and down
on the end of it.




I've used the heating technique successfully many times for slightly
rusted nuts and bolts.


There was one time I had to remove a tire soon after I had a flat fixed.
They *way* over-tightened it so I put a long pipe on the end of my
"four-way" and ended up bending it all to hell.


I took the car back and told them thy put the wheel on too tightly,
then showed them my twisted "four-way" and said: "and I am NOT a weakling."


I later got a much better quality "four-way" my original was kind of a
cheap piece of crap.

I remember melting a bolt using a blowtorch once. I guess you can weld with torches. It was only a handheld propane/butane one.

--
€œWhats the difference between a British and an Iraqi tank?€�
€œI dont know.€�
€œWelcome to the US Air Force.€�

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 18:37:48 +0100, trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 1:24:01 PM UTC-4, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 16:38:05 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke wrote:

On 3/31/2016 7:36 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:06 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke
wrote:

On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

Yes, easy out was the first term I heard, a brand name presumably.

Do they actually work?


Sir, pay no heed to these other "fantasy" handymen. I can assure you
they work just fine, but not alone, mind you. One must first create a
depression in the surface of that which is to be extracted, so that the
easy out can burrow deep within and take purchase.

Are you not meant to drill all the way in so the easy out isn't tapping at all?



Depression? You drill a HOLE for the easy out.

My point exactly. Same as a pilot hole for a screw.

--
Definition of a secretary:
An office fixture that isn't permanent until it's been screwed on the boss's desk.

On 3/31/2016 2:03 PM, philo wrote:
I've used the heating technique successfully many times for slightly
rusted nuts and bolts.


There was one time I had to remove a tire soon after I had a flat fixed.
They *way* over-tightened it so I put a long pipe on the end of my
"four-way" and ended up bending it all to hell.


I took the car back and told them thy put the wheel on too tightly,
then showed them my twisted "four-way" and said: "and I am NOT a weakling."


I later got a much better quality "four-way" my original was kind of a
cheap piece of crap.


Now days I insist they put the lugs on loosely, and
I'll torque them myself. Some garages balk at that
idea, "your wheel will fall off".

I've had some success by using my left foot to push
down on the four way, right (or both) hand to pull
up on the right side.

Also had some success with my HF brand 25 inch breaker
bar, and black impact sockets.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:26:55 +0100, "Mr Macaw" wrote:

These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Very limited use. If the screw/bolt is seized, which is normally the
reason you've twisted it off, the extractor commonly breaks unless
you've drilled a large enough hole to practically collapse the
screw/bolt anyway. Better to have a good diamond point and round nose
chisel, quality drill bits, and taps to correct damaged threads.
I'm really leery about cracking an EZ out in a stud, because you just
made more work for yourself. Done it more than once.
YMMV.

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 2:03:20 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 03/31/2016 12:14 PM, Mr Macaw wrote:
X
After a few raps, they tend to (hopefully) break free.

Honda rotors (and many aftermarket rotors for Honda) also have threaded
holes in their rotors so you can screw a bolt in against the hub and pop
the rotor off.




If the parts can take it, often heating with a propane torch will loosen
things up.

OD expands a fraction more than ID

I did that on car wheelnuts once. I think it worked, I can't remember,
I tried so many things. The final solution, as they kept tightening
during driving, was to get a very long breaker bar and jump up and down
on the end of it.




I've used the heating technique successfully many times for slightly
rusted nuts and bolts.


There was one time I had to remove a tire soon after I had a flat fixed.
They *way* over-tightened it so I put a long pipe on the end of my
"four-way" and ended up bending it all to hell.


I took the car back and told them thy put the wheel on too tightly,
then showed them my twisted "four-way" and said: "and I am NOT a weakling."


I later got a much better quality "four-way" my original was kind of a
cheap piece of crap.

I have always hated four-ways. Long ago, I made sure I had the proper
"single bar" tire iron for all of my cars.

Now I have the proper sized 1/2" sockets, a 25" breaker bar to loosen them
and a torque wrench to put them back on properly.

Even the rusted lugs on my trailer came right off after 2+ years of being
ignored. Breaker bars area so cool!

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:24:31 +0100, Stormin Mormon wrote:

On 3/31/2016 2:03 PM, philo wrote:
I've used the heating technique successfully many times for slightly
rusted nuts and bolts.


There was one time I had to remove a tire soon after I had a flat fixed.
They *way* over-tightened it so I put a long pipe on the end of my
"four-way" and ended up bending it all to hell.


I took the car back and told them thy put the wheel on too tightly,
then showed them my twisted "four-way" and said: "and I am NOT a weakling."


I later got a much better quality "four-way" my original was kind of a
cheap piece of crap.


Now days I insist they put the lugs on loosely, and
I'll torque them myself. Some garages balk at that
idea, "your wheel will fall off".

I've had some success by using my left foot to push
down on the four way, right (or both) hand to pull
up on the right side.

Also had some success with my HF brand 25 inch breaker
bar, and black impact sockets.

Every time I've seen a mechanic put them on, he uses a tool powered by a compressor, with a torque limiter which slips when they're tight enough.

--
Women are not served here. You have to bring your own.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:29:49 +0100, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 2:03:20 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 03/31/2016 12:14 PM, Mr Macaw wrote:
X
After a few raps, they tend to (hopefully) break free.

Honda rotors (and many aftermarket rotors for Honda) also have threaded
holes in their rotors so you can screw a bolt in against the hub and pop
the rotor off.




If the parts can take it, often heating with a propane torch will loosen
things up.

OD expands a fraction more than ID

I did that on car wheelnuts once. I think it worked, I can't remember,
I tried so many things. The final solution, as they kept tightening
during driving, was to get a very long breaker bar and jump up and down
on the end of it.




I've used the heating technique successfully many times for slightly
rusted nuts and bolts.


There was one time I had to remove a tire soon after I had a flat fixed.
They *way* over-tightened it so I put a long pipe on the end of my
"four-way" and ended up bending it all to hell.


I took the car back and told them thy put the wheel on too tightly,
then showed them my twisted "four-way" and said: "and I am NOT a weakling."


I later got a much better quality "four-way" my original was kind of a
cheap piece of crap.

I have always hated four-ways. Long ago, I made sure I had the proper
"single bar" tire iron for all of my cars.

Now I have the proper sized 1/2" sockets, a 25" breaker bar to loosen them
and a torque wrench to put them back on properly.

Even the rusted lugs on my trailer came right off after 2+ years of being
ignored. Breaker bars area so cool!

To put them back on, I just put them on with half the maximum force I can apply. That way I know I can apply twice the force to remove them later.

--
A juggler, driving to his next performance, is stopped by the police. "What are these matches and lighter fluid doing in your car?" asks the cop.
"I'm a juggler and I juggle flaming torches in my act."
"Oh yeah?" says the doubtful cop. "Lets see you do it." The juggler gets out and starts juggling the blazing torches masterfully.
A couple driving by slows down to watch. "Wow," says the driver to his wife. "I'm glad I quit drinking. Look at the test they're giving now!"

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...

Now days I insist they put the lugs on loosely, and
I'll torque them myself. Some garages balk at that
idea, "your wheel will fall off".


Discount Tire where I got my last 2 sets of tires for the vehicles impressed
me. They have a large window where you can see the work being done. They
use impact wrenches to tighten the lug nuts, but for a final tighten they
use a torque wrench.

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 2:37:25 PM UTC-4, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:29:49 +0100, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 2:03:20 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 03/31/2016 12:14 PM, Mr Macaw wrote:
X
After a few raps, they tend to (hopefully) break free.

Honda rotors (and many aftermarket rotors for Honda) also have threaded
holes in their rotors so you can screw a bolt in against the hub and pop
the rotor off.




If the parts can take it, often heating with a propane torch will loosen
things up.

OD expands a fraction more than ID

I did that on car wheelnuts once. I think it worked, I can't remember,
I tried so many things. The final solution, as they kept tightening
during driving, was to get a very long breaker bar and jump up and down
on the end of it.




I've used the heating technique successfully many times for slightly
rusted nuts and bolts.


There was one time I had to remove a tire soon after I had a flat fixed.
They *way* over-tightened it so I put a long pipe on the end of my
"four-way" and ended up bending it all to hell.


I took the car back and told them thy put the wheel on too tightly,
then showed them my twisted "four-way" and said: "and I am NOT a weakling."


I later got a much better quality "four-way" my original was kind of a
cheap piece of crap.

I have always hated four-ways. Long ago, I made sure I had the proper
"single bar" tire iron for all of my cars.

Now I have the proper sized 1/2" sockets, a 25" breaker bar to loosen them
and a torque wrench to put them back on properly.

Even the rusted lugs on my trailer came right off after 2+ years of being
ignored. Breaker bars area so cool!

To put them back on, I just put them on with half the maximum force I can apply. That way I know I can apply twice the force to remove them later.


You do realize that every vehicle has specific torque values that they
want you to use, don't you?

My vehicles range from 80 ft-lbs to 94 ft-lbs.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:38:22 +0100, Ralph Mowery wrote:


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...

Now days I insist they put the lugs on loosely, and
I'll torque them myself. Some garages balk at that
idea, "your wheel will fall off".


Discount Tire where I got my last 2 sets of tires for the vehicles impressed
me. They have a large window where you can see the work being done. They
use impact wrenches to tighten the lug nuts, but for a final tighten they
use a torque wrench.

Here they use a compressor powered torque limited thing which looks like a handheld electric drill. And as for the window, why? I just hang around in the garage where they're working.

--
I married my wife for her looks...but not the ones she's been giving me lately!

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:55:25 +0100, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 2:37:25 PM UTC-4, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:29:49 +0100, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 2:03:20 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 03/31/2016 12:14 PM, Mr Macaw wrote:
X
After a few raps, they tend to (hopefully) break free.

Honda rotors (and many aftermarket rotors for Honda) also have threaded
holes in their rotors so you can screw a bolt in against the hub and pop
the rotor off.




If the parts can take it, often heating with a propane torch will loosen
things up.

OD expands a fraction more than ID

I did that on car wheelnuts once. I think it worked, I can't remember,
I tried so many things. The final solution, as they kept tightening
during driving, was to get a very long breaker bar and jump up and down
on the end of it.




I've used the heating technique successfully many times for slightly
rusted nuts and bolts.


There was one time I had to remove a tire soon after I had a flat fixed.
They *way* over-tightened it so I put a long pipe on the end of my
"four-way" and ended up bending it all to hell.


I took the car back and told them thy put the wheel on too tightly,
then showed them my twisted "four-way" and said: "and I am NOT a weakling."


I later got a much better quality "four-way" my original was kind of a
cheap piece of crap.

I have always hated four-ways. Long ago, I made sure I had the proper
"single bar" tire iron for all of my cars.

Now I have the proper sized 1/2" sockets, a 25" breaker bar to loosen them
and a torque wrench to put them back on properly.

Even the rusted lugs on my trailer came right off after 2+ years of being
ignored. Breaker bars area so cool!

To put them back on, I just put them on with half the maximum force I can apply. That way I know I can apply twice the force to remove them later.


You do realize that every vehicle has specific torque values that they
want you to use, don't you?

My vehicles range from 80 ft-lbs to 94 ft-lbs.

Why does it have to be that exact? As long you can get it back off, it doesn't come off by itself, and you don't snap the bolt, who cares what the precise number is?

--
What's the fastest thing in Wales?
A virgin sheep.

Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 16:58:53 +0100, dadiOH wrote:

Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:06 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke
wrote:
On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

Yes, easy out was the first term I heard, a brand name presumably.

Do they actually work?

They work IF you can drill a hole into the screw so you can insert
them. Big "if".

Why would that be a problem?

Depends upon the size (diameter) of the screw. I use a lot of #8
screws...trying to drill a vertical hole into that, deep enough for the
extractor and leaving enough meat in the screw for the extractor is pretty
much an exercise in futility.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 20:03:35 +0100, "Mr Macaw" wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:55:25 +0100, DerbyDad03 wrote:



My vehicles range from 80 ft-lbs to 94 ft-lbs.

Why does it have to be that exact? As long you can get it back off, it doesn't come off by itself, and you don't snap the bolt, who cares what the precise number is?

You can distort the rotors.

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 3:03:43 PM UTC-4, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:55:25 +0100, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 2:37:25 PM UTC-4, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:29:49 +0100, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 2:03:20 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 03/31/2016 12:14 PM, Mr Macaw wrote:
X
After a few raps, they tend to (hopefully) break free.

Honda rotors (and many aftermarket rotors for Honda) also have threaded
holes in their rotors so you can screw a bolt in against the hub and pop
the rotor off.




If the parts can take it, often heating with a propane torch will loosen
things up.

OD expands a fraction more than ID

I did that on car wheelnuts once. I think it worked, I can't remember,
I tried so many things. The final solution, as they kept tightening
during driving, was to get a very long breaker bar and jump up and down
on the end of it.




I've used the heating technique successfully many times for slightly
rusted nuts and bolts.


There was one time I had to remove a tire soon after I had a flat fixed.
They *way* over-tightened it so I put a long pipe on the end of my
"four-way" and ended up bending it all to hell.


I took the car back and told them thy put the wheel on too tightly,
then showed them my twisted "four-way" and said: "and I am NOT a weakling."


I later got a much better quality "four-way" my original was kind of a
cheap piece of crap.

I have always hated four-ways. Long ago, I made sure I had the proper
"single bar" tire iron for all of my cars.

Now I have the proper sized 1/2" sockets, a 25" breaker bar to loosen them
and a torque wrench to put them back on properly.

Even the rusted lugs on my trailer came right off after 2+ years of being
ignored. Breaker bars area so cool!

To put them back on, I just put them on with half the maximum force I can apply. That way I know I can apply twice the force to remove them later.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 20:22:40 +0100, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 3:03:43 PM UTC-4, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:55:25 +0100, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 2:37:25 PM UTC-4, Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 19:29:49 +0100, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 2:03:20 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 03/31/2016 12:14 PM, Mr Macaw wrote:
X
After a few raps, they tend to (hopefully) break free.

Honda rotors (and many aftermarket rotors for Honda) also have threaded
holes in their rotors so you can screw a bolt in against the hub and pop
the rotor off.




If the parts can take it, often heating with a propane torch will loosen
things up.

OD expands a fraction more than ID

I did that on car wheelnuts once. I think it worked, I can't remember,
I tried so many things. The final solution, as they kept tightening
during driving, was to get a very long breaker bar and jump up and down
on the end of it.




I've used the heating technique successfully many times for slightly
rusted nuts and bolts.


There was one time I had to remove a tire soon after I had a flat fixed.
They *way* over-tightened it so I put a long pipe on the end of my
"four-way" and ended up bending it all to hell.


I took the car back and told them thy put the wheel on too tightly,
then showed them my twisted "four-way" and said: "and I am NOT a weakling."


I later got a much better quality "four-way" my original was kind of a
cheap piece of crap.

I have always hated four-ways. Long ago, I made sure I had the proper
"single bar" tire iron for all of my cars.

Now I have the proper sized 1/2" sockets, a 25" breaker bar to loosen them
and a torque wrench to put them back on properly.

Even the rusted lugs on my trailer came right off after 2+ years of being
ignored. Breaker bars area so cool!

To put them back on, I just put them on with half the maximum force I can apply. That way I know I can apply twice the force to remove them later.


You do realize that every vehicle has specific torque values that they
want you to use, don't you?

My vehicles range from 80 ft-lbs to 94 ft-lbs.

Why does it have to be that exact? As long you can get it back off, it doesn't come off by itself, and you don't snap the bolt, who cares what the precise number is?


Problems Caused by Improper Torque
There are several different issues that lug nuts with an improper amount of torque can cause. The problems can range in severity depending on whether they are over or under tightened and how far the amount of torque deviates from what is required. Some of the most common lug nut related problems are listed below.

Stretched Wheel Studs
The wheel studs that the lug nuts attach to are designed to provide a tiny amount of give when being tightened. They may stretch a small amount, but not enough to cause any damage when the proper amount of torque is applied. Over-tightening, however, can put too much strain on the wheel studs, weakening them and causing them to suddenly snap while driving, if not during the tightening process itself.

Warped Brake Rotors
Over-tightening the lug nuts is also a major contributor to warped or damaged brake rotors. Once the brake rotors are damaged, a vehicle will shake or vibrate upon braking. The problem is even more pronounced when lug nuts are tightened unevenly or in the wrong pattern, putting more force on some areas of the wheel than others. Depending on the severity, this can be quite dangerous as well as costly to repair. In the worst cases, it becomes difficult or impossible to adequately control a vehicle upon braking.

Unbalanced Wheels
If lug nuts aren't tightened enough, it can be just as dangerous. A loose wheel will wobble and become unbalanced, and this can cause stress to the wheel studs, among other issues. The wobbling can eventually loosen all of the lug nuts until they fall off completely, at which point there would be nothing holding the entire wheel on the vehicle. This can obviously lead to catastrophic circumstances while driving.

Funny how those never actually happen.

--
Sweet dreams are made of cheese, who am I to diss a Brie? I cheddar the world and the feta cheese, everybody's looking for Stilton.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 20:16:34 +0100, dadiOH wrote:

Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 16:58:53 +0100, dadiOH wrote:

Mr Macaw wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2016 15:34:06 +0100, Colonel Edmund J. Burke
wrote:
On 3/31/2016 7:26 AM, Mr Macaw wrote:
These sound useful, ever used anything like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181742384239

Over hear they are called Easy Outs.
I've used 'em in my many handymanish wanderings, so to speak.

Yes, easy out was the first term I heard, a brand name presumably.

Do they actually work?

They work IF you can drill a hole into the screw so you can insert
them. Big "if".

Why would that be a problem?

Depends upon the size (diameter) of the screw. I use a lot of #8
screws...trying to drill a vertical hole into that, deep enough for the
extractor and leaving enough meat in the screw for the extractor is pretty
much an exercise in futility.

A bench drill with the correct width of bit on it should work.

--
Sweet dreams are made of cheese, who am I to diss a Brie? I cheddar the world and the feta cheese, everybody's looking for Stilton.

On 03/31/2016 01:36 PM, Mr Macaw wrote:


Now days I insist they put the lugs on loosely, and
I'll torque them myself. Some garages balk at that
idea, "your wheel will fall off".

I've had some success by using my left foot to push
down on the four way, right (or both) hand to pull
up on the right side.

Also had some success with my HF brand 25 inch breaker
bar, and black impact sockets.

Every time I've seen a mechanic put them on, he uses a tool powered by a
compressor, with a torque limiter which slips when they're tight enough.




Yep, that's the way it's supposed to be