I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.

So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.

I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the screw
stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into the
hole, turned again and same result.

I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw but
it didn't.

So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or this
is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.

Any idea what I should do?

MC

On Jun 22, 6:39 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.

So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.

I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the screw
stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into the
hole, turned again and same result.

I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw but
it didn't.

So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or this
is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.

Any idea what I should do?

MC

Get an impact driver kit like Harbor Freight #93481-1VGA. A couple of
hammer whacks ought to get the screw started out. Regarding Kobalt
tools, they are not bad.but not in the same league as Craftsman hand
tools (most of them Americam made) and definitely not at all like
SnapOn, Matco or Mac. The latter three have screw extractors that
actually work, but even these require a skill level well past most DIY
weekend warriors. The biggest problem is that the spud that works to
grab the screw can break since it has to be hard enough to bite into
the screw, and the hardening also makes it brittle. Thus, too much
force leaves you with the screw still tight but now containing a bit
of really hard broken steel. HTH

Joe

On Jun 22, 7:39 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.

So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.

I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the screw
stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into the
hole, turned again and same result.

I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw but
it didn't.

So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or this
is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.

Any idea what I should do?

You didn't say what material the screw is, what the screw is screwed
into, the size of the screw, whether the screw is corroded in place,
etc. The more information, the better the answer.

If the screw is really seized up in there, and the screw is made of
softer metal, you're probably out of luck. If the screw is into metal
try hitting it with some penetrating oil and letting it soak
overnight, then try again.

Drilling deeper? I don't know, how deep did you drill?

R

MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out,
and since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the
surface so cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not
practical.
So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor.

Well it does depend on the size of the screw, but I would think that ¼
inch is not far enough. I would suggest almost as far as the treaded
portion of the easyout.


I bought
one at the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.

I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took
the other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the
hole and turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab
turned but the screw stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped
the plug tab deeper into the hole, turned again and same result.

I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the
screw but it didn't.

So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or
this is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.

Any idea what I should do?

MC

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 19:39:23 -0400, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:

I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.

So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.

I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the screw
stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into the
hole, turned again and same result.

I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw but
it didn't.

So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or this
is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.

Any idea what I should do?

Mr. Cuse, you've been here long enough to know to give all the
details. Is this a screw in wood or metal?

Personally, I own nothing but crap screw extractors (4 for a dollar)
and I've never gotten them to work, partly because most of the screws
involved were too small even for the smallest extractor, but partly
because they don't bite, I think.

I've found the most success with left handed drill bits, in a drill
that runs CCW. There are only two sources of these bits, Vermont
American are not so expensive in the smaller two sizes, but iirc onely
has them and a third size. Harbor Freight has a set of four for
definitely cheap, even at full price. I think when I first saw them
they were half price, so that was even cheaper. I have used the HF
drills zero or one time, and so far so good.

The advantage, especially in wood, is that one can use a small size
that won't enlarge the hole, and the constant CCW spinning might also
unscrew the screw. If not, one can switch to bigger bit that will
drill out all but a trace of the threads, and then the screw almost
certainly comes out.

MC

It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.

On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, wrote:

It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.

Best thread insert : Gardserts

http://www.gardspecialists.com/

"RicodJour" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jun 22, 7:39 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.

So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.

I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the
screw
stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into
the
hole, turned again and same result.

I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw
but
it didn't.

So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or
this
is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.

Any idea what I should do?

You didn't say what material the screw is, what the screw is screwed
into, the size of the screw, whether the screw is corroded in place,
etc. The more information, the better the answer.

If the screw is really seized up in there, and the screw is made of
softer metal, you're probably out of luck. If the screw is into metal
try hitting it with some penetrating oil and letting it soak
overnight, then try again.

Drilling deeper? I don't know, how deep did you drill?

R


The screw is a machine screw - metal to metal. Size is 10-32. I drilled
about 1/4" deepthe entire screw is only about 1/2" deep. It's brass.

Tried with lubricant already and didn't work.

Thanks,

MC

On Jun 23, 3:06 am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

ups.com...



On Jun 22, 7:39 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have a few screws (flat head) that the flat head slot had worn out, and
since the screw is a finish screw it is recessed deep into the surface so
cutting a new slot with a dremel for example is not practical.

So after a few tries I decided to get a screw extractor. I bought one at
the right size at HD brand name KOBALT.

I used the drill bit and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then I took the
other piece that is called the "plug tab" and put that into the hole and
turned it counterclockwise with a wrench. The plug tab turned but the
screw
stays. I then use a hammer and lightly tapped the plug tab deeper into
the
hole, turned again and same result.

I thought it's supposed to "grab" the inside surface and turn the screw
but
it didn't.

So either I am not using it right, or I did not drill deep enough, or
this
is a piece of crap screw extractor and I need to get a good one.

Any idea what I should do?

You didn't say what material the screw is, what the screw is screwed
into, the size of the screw, whether the screw is corroded in place,
etc. The more information, the better the answer.

If the screw is really seized up in there, and the screw is made of
softer metal, you're probably out of luck. If the screw is into metal
try hitting it with some penetrating oil and letting it soak
overnight, then try again.

Drilling deeper? I don't know, how deep did you drill?


The screw is a machine screw - metal to metal. Size is 10-32. I drilled
about 1/4" deepthe entire screw is only about 1/2" deep. It's brass.

Tried with lubricant already and didn't work.

Drill it out and re-tap. Not much choice in the matter. You may have
to bump up one screw size.

R

On Jun 22, 10:45 pm, wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, wrote:
It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.

Best thread insert : Gardserts

http://www.gardspecialists.com/- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I've can't imagine how you could use a screw extractor on a 10-32
screw to begin with. I've never seen one that's small enough to be
used on a screw that small.

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 15:22:00 -0000, wrote:

On Jun 22, 10:45 pm, wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, wrote:
It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.

Best thread insert : Gardserts

http://www.gardspecialists.com/- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I've can't imagine how you could use a screw extractor on a 10-32
screw to begin with. I've never seen one that's small enough to be
used on a screw that small.

You may be right. The original post did not say 10-32 or brass.
My suggestion now would be to let someone with a little more
experience tackle the problem.

On Jun 23, 8:22 am, wrote:
On Jun 22, 10:45 pm, wrote:



On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, wrote:
It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.

Best thread insert : Gardserts

http://www.gardspecialists.com/-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I've can't imagine how you could use a screw extractor on a 10-32
screw to begin with. I've never seen one that's small enough to be
used on a screw that small.

I've used screw extractors on screws as small as #6's.....but its
usually a 50-50 success rate even on the bigger ones.

IMO you need good quality extractors...I have a set of Hanson's that
has extractors for even smaller screws.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html


The trick is to drill down the centerline of the screw, drill the
right size hole......too big & the screw extractor tends to expand the
screw & lock in the hole....too small & you won't get a good bite on
the screw

a brass screw is pretty soft so the extractor might chew it up rather
than bite & extract.

MC, if you've got through hole you might be able to drill with
successively bigger drill until on the threads of the screw are left &
then you can pick at the screw & maybe unwind the thread.

If the hole's not too badly messed up you might be able to chase the
threads & re-use the hole as is...otherwise bump up to the next size
(#12) or do a hole repair with a Heli-coil

cheers
Bob

"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 23, 8:22 am, wrote:
On Jun 22, 10:45 pm, wrote:



On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, wrote:
It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.

Best thread insert : Gardserts

http://www.gardspecialists.com/-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I've can't imagine how you could use a screw extractor on a 10-32
screw to begin with. I've never seen one that's small enough to be
used on a screw that small.

I've used screw extractors on screws as small as #6's.....but its
usually a 50-50 success rate even on the bigger ones.

IMO you need good quality extractors...I have a set of Hanson's that
has extractors for even smaller screws.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html


The trick is to drill down the centerline of the screw, drill the
right size hole......too big & the screw extractor tends to expand the
screw & lock in the hole....too small & you won't get a good bite on
the screw

a brass screw is pretty soft so the extractor might chew it up rather
than bite & extract.

MC, if you've got through hole you might be able to drill with
successively bigger drill until on the threads of the screw are left &
then you can pick at the screw & maybe unwind the thread.

If the hole's not too badly messed up you might be able to chase the
threads & re-use the hole as is...otherwise bump up to the next size
(#12) or do a hole repair with a Heli-coil

cheers
Bob




Thanks Bob. I have drilled it all the way through and inserted the screw
extractor and no good it won't bite. I then took a dremel with a cut off
wheel to cut a deeper slot and tried again - it turned ... but bad news, the
screw head came off and the rest of the screw is still inside the hole and
none of it is protruding from the hole for me to get with a plier.

So now I have a short screw inside the hole, I guess I need to use a bigger
drill bit but I think more than likely I will damage the thread of the hole
since I don't trust myself to be able to drill totally straight and
centered. I have about 7 screws that are refusing to be extracted out of
16.

MC

On Jun 24, 10:06 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Jun 23, 8:22 am, wrote:
On Jun 22, 10:45 pm, wrote:

On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, wrote:
It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.

Best thread insert : Gardserts

http://www.gardspecialists.com/-Hidequoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I've can't imagine how you could use a screw extractor on a 10-32
screw to begin with. I've never seen one that's small enough to be
used on a screw that small.

I've used screw extractors on screws as small as #6's.....but its
usually a 50-50 success rate even on the bigger ones.

IMO you need good quality extractors...I have a set of Hanson's that
has extractors for even smaller screws.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html

The trick is to drill down the centerline of the screw, drill the
right size hole......too big & the screw extractor tends to expand the
screw & lock in the hole....too small & you won't get a good bite on
the screw

a brass screw is pretty soft so the extractor might chew it up rather
than bite & extract.

MC, if you've got through hole you might be able to drill with
successively bigger drill until on the threads of the screw are left &
then you can pick at the screw & maybe unwind the thread.

If the hole's not too badly messed up you might be able to chase the
threads & re-use the hole as is...otherwise bump up to the next size
(#12) or do a hole repair with a Heli-coil

cheers
Bob

Thanks Bob. I have drilled it all the way through and inserted the screw
extractor and no good it won't bite. I then took a dremel with a cut off
wheel to cut a deeper slot and tried again - it turned ... but bad news, the
screw head came off and the rest of the screw is still inside the hole and
none of it is protruding from the hole for me to get with a plier.

So now I have a short screw inside the hole, I guess I need to use a bigger
drill bit but I think more than likely I will damage the thread of the hole
since I don't trust myself to be able to drill totally straight and
centered. I have about 7 screws that are refusing to be extracted out of
16.

MC

Did you read my earlier post? I know from years doing mechanical work
that stubborn screws can be easily removed with an IMPACT DRIVER (not
an air impact wrench). This is a simple tool that works with another
simple tool, a hammer. Nearly 99% of professional mechanics will have
one in their toolbox, but the general public and every one of your
post responders seems to be blissfully unaware of this essential and
low cost device. For under $10 you can likely solve your problem, $15
if you need a hammer, and if it doesn't work due to corrosion or some
other mechanical mishap you can then do a drill out and Helicoil
routine knowing that the situation was hopeless to begin with. Good
luck.

Joe

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 20:27:55 -0700, Joe wrote:

Did you read my earlier post?

He does seem to have ignored some of the posts, doesn't he.

I know from years doing mechanical work
that stubborn screws can be easily removed with an IMPACT DRIVER (not
an air impact wrench). This is a simple tool that works with another
simple tool, a hammer. Nearly 99% of professional mechanics will have
one in their toolbox, but the general public and every one of your
post responders seems to be blissfully unaware of this essential and

I know about these. I have two, and used them a lot on the old
motorcycle. But you had post already when I did, so no need to
mention them.

He's ignored my suggestion of left handed bits, also.

low cost device. For under $10 you can likely solve your problem, $15

JCWhitney has a good one with a big handle, and a rubber protection
bumper. They have the small one too.


if you need a hammer, and if it doesn't work due to corrosion or some
other mechanical mishap you can then do a drill out and Helicoil
routine knowing that the situation was hopeless to begin with. Good
luck.

Joe

On Jun 24, 8:27 pm, Joe wrote:
On Jun 24, 10:06 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:



"BobK207" wrote in message

roups.com...

On Jun 23, 8:22 am, wrote:
On Jun 22, 10:45 pm, wrote:

On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, wrote:
It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.

Best thread insert : Gardserts

http://www.gardspecialists.com/-Hidequotedtext -

- Show quoted text -

I've can't imagine how you could use a screw extractor on a 10-32
screw to begin with. I've never seen one that's small enough to be
used on a screw that small.

I've used screw extractors on screws as small as #6's.....but its
usually a 50-50 success rate even on the bigger ones.

IMO you need good quality extractors...I have a set of Hanson's that
has extractors for even smaller screws.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html

The trick is to drill down the centerline of the screw, drill the
right size hole......too big & the screw extractor tends to expand the
screw & lock in the hole....too small & you won't get a good bite on
the screw

a brass screw is pretty soft so the extractor might chew it up rather
than bite & extract.

MC, if you've got through hole you might be able to drill with
successively bigger drill until on the threads of the screw are left &
then you can pick at the screw & maybe unwind the thread.

If the hole's not too badly messed up you might be able to chase the
threads & re-use the hole as is...otherwise bump up to the next size
(#12) or do a hole repair with a Heli-coil

cheers
Bob

Thanks Bob. I have drilled it all the way through and inserted the screw
extractor and no good it won't bite. I then took a dremel with a cut off
wheel to cut a deeper slot and tried again - it turned ... but bad news, the
screw head came off and the rest of the screw is still inside the hole and
none of it is protruding from the hole for me to get with a plier.

So now I have a short screw inside the hole, I guess I need to use a bigger
drill bit but I think more than likely I will damage the thread of the hole
since I don't trust myself to be able to drill totally straight and
centered. I have about 7 screws that are refusing to be extracted out of
16.

MC

Did you read my earlier post? I know from years doing mechanical work
that stubborn screws can be easily removed with an IMPACT DRIVER (not
an air impact wrench). This is a simple tool that works with another
simple tool, a hammer. Nearly 99% of professional mechanics will have
one in their toolbox, but the general public and every one of your
post responders seems to be blissfully unaware of this essential and
low cost device. For under $10 you can likely solve your problem, $15
if you need a hammer, and if it doesn't work due to corrosion or some
other mechanical mishap you can then do a drill out and Helicoil
routine knowing that the situation was hopeless to begin with. Good
luck.

Joe

Joe-

Just because some of us didn't suggest an impact driver doesn't mean
we don't know of their existence or their usefulness. .... I have one
but don't think it is the solution in this situation. Of couse I'm
not standing next to the screws in question..

Brass screw, 10-32

IMO doesn't seem like a good candidate for the impact driver
treatment.....................

MC-

Failing screw extraction I'd opt for successive drilling...if the hole
material is steel, it will tend to keep the drill drilling in the
brass (softer material) You can drill up close to the screw minor
diameter & then "pick" the remaining thread out.

Even a damaged threaded hole has some decent holding ability..... a
10-32 brass screw needs only about four good threads if the hole is
steel, 6 threads if the hole is brass.

A 1/2" of thread (16 threads) for a 10-32 is a bit much.....you could
have a fair amount of those threads damaged & still secure a brass
screw


cheers
Bob

"Joe" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Jun 24, 10:06 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Jun 23, 8:22 am, wrote:
On Jun 22, 10:45 pm, wrote:

On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, wrote:
It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the drill
at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all
the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until
smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool
grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.

Best thread insert : Gardserts

http://www.gardspecialists.com/-Hidequoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I've can't imagine how you could use a screw extractor on a 10-32
screw to begin with. I've never seen one that's small enough to be
used on a screw that small.

I've used screw extractors on screws as small as #6's.....but its
usually a 50-50 success rate even on the bigger ones.

IMO you need good quality extractors...I have a set of Hanson's that
has extractors for even smaller screws.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html

The trick is to drill down the centerline of the screw, drill the
right size hole......too big & the screw extractor tends to expand the
screw & lock in the hole....too small & you won't get a good bite on
the screw

a brass screw is pretty soft so the extractor might chew it up rather
than bite & extract.

MC, if you've got through hole you might be able to drill with
successively bigger drill until on the threads of the screw are left &
then you can pick at the screw & maybe unwind the thread.

If the hole's not too badly messed up you might be able to chase the
threads & re-use the hole as is...otherwise bump up to the next size
(#12) or do a hole repair with a Heli-coil

cheers
Bob

Thanks Bob. I have drilled it all the way through and inserted the screw
extractor and no good it won't bite. I then took a dremel with a cut off
wheel to cut a deeper slot and tried again - it turned ... but bad news,
the
screw head came off and the rest of the screw is still inside the hole
and
none of it is protruding from the hole for me to get with a plier.

So now I have a short screw inside the hole, I guess I need to use a
bigger
drill bit but I think more than likely I will damage the thread of the
hole
since I don't trust myself to be able to drill totally straight and
centered. I have about 7 screws that are refusing to be extracted out of
16.

MC

Did you read my earlier post? I know from years doing mechanical work
that stubborn screws can be easily removed with an IMPACT DRIVER (not
an air impact wrench). This is a simple tool that works with another
simple tool, a hammer. Nearly 99% of professional mechanics will have
one in their toolbox, but the general public and every one of your
post responders seems to be blissfully unaware of this essential and
low cost device. For under $10 you can likely solve your problem, $15
if you need a hammer, and if it doesn't work due to corrosion or some
other mechanical mishap you can then do a drill out and Helicoil
routine knowing that the situation was hopeless to begin with. Good
luck.

Joe



I did, I ordered the impact driver from the site you recommended and plan to
wait and give that a try on my other stubborn screws. Thanks.

MC

"mm" wrote in message
...
He's ignored my suggestion of left handed bits, also.

No I did not. I do have one left handed bit and tried it but it did not
work. The one I had was a bit small however I thought the screw extractor
would have more bite but I think the brass was just too soft. One of the
things on the back of my mind was to try a bigger left hand bit if the
impact driver approach fails.

Thanks.

MC

On Mon, 25 Jun 2007 03:45:50 -0400, "MiamiCuse"
wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
.. .
He's ignored my suggestion of left handed bits, also.

No I did not. I do have one left handed bit and tried it but it did not
work. The one I had was a bit small however I thought the screw extractor
would have more bite but I think the brass was just too soft. One of the
things on the back of my mind was to try a bigger left hand bit if the
impact driver approach fails.

Thanks for posting.

Thanks.

You're welcom.e

MC

"BobK207" wrote in message
ups.com...

MC-

Failing screw extraction I'd opt for successive drilling...if the hole
material is steel, it will tend to keep the drill drilling in the
brass (softer material) You can drill up close to the screw minor
diameter & then "pick" the remaining thread out.

Even a damaged threaded hole has some decent holding ability..... a
10-32 brass screw needs only about four good threads if the hole is
steel, 6 threads if the hole is brass.

A 1/2" of thread (16 threads) for a 10-32 is a bit much.....you could
have a fair amount of those threads damaged & still secure a brass
screw


cheers
Bob



Thanks Bob. I will try that - at this point is the only thing I can try and
if that fails (I mean if I manage to completely mess up the threads of the
hole) then I have to retab at a larger size. I hope not as I am not
experienced with that at all and do not have the right tools to do it.
Keeping my fingers crossed.

MC

"BobK207" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jun 24, 8:27 pm, Joe wrote:
On Jun 24, 10:06 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:



"BobK207" wrote in message

roups.com...

On Jun 23, 8:22 am, wrote:
On Jun 22, 10:45 pm, wrote:

On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, wrote:
It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the
drill at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all
the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until
smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool
grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long
as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.

Best thread insert : Gardserts

http://www.gardspecialists.com/-Hidequotedtext -

- Show quoted text -

I've can't imagine how you could use a screw extractor on a 10-32
screw to begin with. I've never seen one that's small enough to be
used on a screw that small.

I've used screw extractors on screws as small as #6's.....but its
usually a 50-50 success rate even on the bigger ones.

IMO you need good quality extractors...I have a set of Hanson's that
has extractors for even smaller screws.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html

The trick is to drill down the centerline of the screw, drill the
right size hole......too big & the screw extractor tends to expand
the
screw & lock in the hole....too small & you won't get a good bite on
the screw

a brass screw is pretty soft so the extractor might chew it up rather
than bite & extract.

MC, if you've got through hole you might be able to drill with
successively bigger drill until on the threads of the screw are left
&
then you can pick at the screw & maybe unwind the thread.

If the hole's not too badly messed up you might be able to chase the
threads & re-use the hole as is...otherwise bump up to the next size
(#12) or do a hole repair with a Heli-coil

cheers
Bob

Thanks Bob. I have drilled it all the way through and inserted the
screw
extractor and no good it won't bite. I then took a dremel with a cut
off
wheel to cut a deeper slot and tried again - it turned ... but bad
news, the
screw head came off and the rest of the screw is still inside the hole
and
none of it is protruding from the hole for me to get with a plier.

So now I have a short screw inside the hole, I guess I need to use a
bigger
drill bit but I think more than likely I will damage the thread of the
hole
since I don't trust myself to be able to drill totally straight and
centered. I have about 7 screws that are refusing to be extracted out
of
16.

MC

Did you read my earlier post? I know from years doing mechanical work
that stubborn screws can be easily removed with an IMPACT DRIVER (not
an air impact wrench). This is a simple tool that works with another
simple tool, a hammer. Nearly 99% of professional mechanics will have
one in their toolbox, but the general public and every one of your
post responders seems to be blissfully unaware of this essential and
low cost device. For under $10 you can likely solve your problem, $15
if you need a hammer, and if it doesn't work due to corrosion or some
other mechanical mishap you can then do a drill out and Helicoil
routine knowing that the situation was hopeless to begin with. Good
luck.

Joe

Joe-

Just because some of us didn't suggest an impact driver doesn't mean
we don't know of their existence or their usefulness. .... I have one
but don't think it is the solution in this situation. Of couse I'm
not standing next to the screws in question..

Brass screw, 10-32

IMO doesn't seem like a good candidate for the impact driver
treatment.....................

MC-

Failing screw extraction I'd opt for successive drilling...if the hole
material is steel, it will tend to keep the drill drilling in the
brass (softer material) You can drill up close to the screw minor
diameter & then "pick" the remaining thread out.

Even a damaged threaded hole has some decent holding ability..... a
10-32 brass screw needs only about four good threads if the hole is
steel, 6 threads if the hole is brass.

A 1/2" of thread (16 threads) for a 10-32 is a bit much.....you could
have a fair amount of those threads damaged & still secure a brass
screw


cheers
Bob



Bob thank you very much for this advise. I finally tried what you suggested
to drill it successively with larger sizes. I was prepared to completely
ruining the thread. I tried one smaller size drill bit and drilled all the
way through, then inserted a replacement screw, it actually went into the
thread and turned one revolution! So I tried a bigger drill bit and drilled
again, slowly and steadily, and afterwards I tried the screw again and it
went in, with slight resistance but the threads are fine! I have to pick
out the pile of metal collected at the bottom of the hole but the original
threads are still good. Thanks again!

MC

On Jul 4, 9:04 am, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message

ups.com...



On Jun 24, 8:27 pm, Joe wrote:
On Jun 24, 10:06 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:

"BobK207" wrote in message

roups.com...

On Jun 23, 8:22 am, wrote:
On Jun 22, 10:45 pm, wrote:

On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:41:30 -0400, wrote:
It is most important that keep the drill centered. Guide the
drill at
an angle until you get hole in the right location and then slowly
straighten the drill. Do not break the drill. Drill the screw all
the
way through.

If you think loctite may have been used then heat the area until
smoke
shows the loctite burning.

When cool insert the extractor and tap downward to make the tool
grab.
This should remove it if you kept the drill centered.

If not drill the hole through with a root diameter drill as long
as
you can keep it centered. If you can Re-Tap.

If this still fails then purchase a thread insert and follow the
directions.

Best thread insert : Gardserts

http://www.gardspecialists.com/-Hidequotedtext-

- Show quoted text -

I've can't imagine how you could use a screw extractor on a 10-32
screw to begin with. I've never seen one that's small enough to be
used on a screw that small.

I've used screw extractors on screws as small as #6's.....but its
usually a 50-50 success rate even on the bigger ones.

IMO you need good quality extractors...I have a set of Hanson's that
has extractors for even smaller screws.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html

The trick is to drill down the centerline of the screw, drill the
right size hole......too big & the screw extractor tends to expand
the
screw & lock in the hole....too small & you won't get a good bite on
the screw

a brass screw is pretty soft so the extractor might chew it up rather
than bite & extract.

MC, if you've got through hole you might be able to drill with
successively bigger drill until on the threads of the screw are left
&
then you can pick at the screw & maybe unwind the thread.

If the hole's not too badly messed up you might be able to chase the
threads & re-use the hole as is...otherwise bump up to the next size
(#12) or do a hole repair with a Heli-coil

cheers
Bob

Thanks Bob. I have drilled it all the way through and inserted the
screw
extractor and no good it won't bite. I then took a dremel with a cut
off
wheel to cut a deeper slot and tried again - it turned ... but bad
news, the
screw head came off and the rest of the screw is still inside the hole
and
none of it is protruding from the hole for me to get with a plier.

So now I have a short screw inside the hole, I guess I need to use a
bigger
drill bit but I think more than likely I will damage the thread of the
hole
since I don't trust myself to be able to drill totally straight and
centered. I have about 7 screws that are refusing to be extracted out
of
16.

MC

Did you read my earlier post? I know from years doing mechanical work
that stubborn screws can be easily removed with an IMPACT DRIVER (not
an air impact wrench). This is a simple tool that works with another
simple tool, a hammer. Nearly 99% of professional mechanics will have
one in their toolbox, but the general public and every one of your
post responders seems to be blissfully unaware of this essential and
low cost device. For under $10 you can likely solve your problem, $15
if you need a hammer, and if it doesn't work due to corrosion or some
other mechanical mishap you can then do a drill out and Helicoil
routine knowing that the situation was hopeless to begin with. Good
luck.

Joe

Joe-

Just because some of us didn't suggest an impact driver doesn't mean
we don't know of their existence or their usefulness. .... I have one
but don't think it is the solution in this situation. Of couse I'm
not standing next to the screws in question..

Brass screw, 10-32

IMO doesn't seem like a good candidate for the impact driver
treatment.....................

MC-

Failing screw extraction I'd opt for successive drilling...if the hole
material is steel, it will tend to keep the drill drilling in the
brass (softer material) You can drill up close to the screw minor
diameter & then "pick" the remaining thread out.

Even a damaged threaded hole has some decent holding ability..... a
10-32 brass screw needs only about four good threads if the hole is
steel, 6 threads if the hole is brass.

A 1/2" of thread (16 threads) for a 10-32 is a bit much.....you could
have a fair amount of those threads damaged & still secure a brass
screw

cheers
Bob

Bob thank you very much for this advise. I finally tried what you suggested
to drill it successively with larger sizes. I was prepared to completely
ruining the thread. I tried one smaller size drill bit and drilled all the
way through, then inserted a replacement screw, it actually went into the
thread and turned one revolution! So I tried a bigger drill bit and drilled
again, slowly and steadily, and afterwards I tried the screw again and it
went in, with slight resistance but the threads are fine! I have to pick
out the pile of metal collected at the bottom of the hole but the original
threads are still good. Thanks again!

MC

MC-

Thanks for the followup......I've messed up & fixed a fair number of
threads / stuck screws.

I think the reason the successive drilling worked out is that the
brass is so soft but that's also why the extractor didn't work.

A steel screw would have been more difficutl to drive but the
extractor would have bit (in a steel screw) rather than slipped as in
the brass screw.

To remove the debris you might consider a shop vac rigged up with a
small probe.

cheers
Bob