I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

Don Y wrote:
I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I have a bigger set of the HF diamond points . Don't overheat them or the
diamonds fall off . Otherwise I've had good success using them . The one
that came apart was sharpening a chain saw when that happened .

--
Snag

On 02/15/2016 06:55 PM, Don Y wrote:
Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I'd stick with Dremel bits. I've never used HF Dremel bits but their
drill bits are suitable for drilling softwood.

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 18:55:50 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I have a bunch of those offshore diamond bits and they work for a
while but get a bunch of them if you are doing any serious work.

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 20:53:13 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:


I have a bigger set of the HF diamond points . Don't overheat them or the
diamonds fall off . Otherwise I've had good success using them . The one
that came apart was sharpening a chain saw when that happened .

--
Snag

That pretty much says how low the quality of the HF bits are. A chainsaw
is not a very hard steel. But that just shows the overall quality of all
HF stuff, and is why I dont buy from them, or recommend them. Ive never
bought bits for a dremel tool, because I never found them tools real
useful for my needs. I got one years ago as a gift, used the bits that
came with it a few times, but I would not even know where to find it
now. However, I'd suggest the bits from dremel, or another company that
makes quality stuff. I've bought off-brand drill bits and they are just
a waste of money, as well as a thing to **** me off when I'm trying to
drill a hole. The same is true to jigsaw, sawsall, and other saw blades.

On 2/15/2016 7:53 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Don Y wrote:
I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I have a bigger set of the HF diamond points .

"Bigger" in terms of number of bits? Or, larger sizes?
(I'd prefer a wider range of sizes but suspect the tool
doesn't really have enough HP to do much with anything
more substantial)

Don't overheat them or the
diamonds fall off . Otherwise I've had good success using them . The one
that came apart was sharpening a chain saw when that happened .

OK, so it's reasonably "capable". (why not a round file and guide for
the saw? seems like you're tempting fate with a motorized tool -- Ooops!)

On 2/15/2016 8:14 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 02/15/2016 06:55 PM, Don Y wrote:
Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I'd stick with Dremel bits. I've never used HF Dremel bits but their drill bits
are suitable for drilling softwood.

That's been my experience with other items that I'd expected to be
"hardened". E.g., a tap & die set was a very ornate set of paperweights!
(when tapping ALUMINUM and soft BRASS)

On 2/15/2016 8:38 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 18:55:50 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I have a bunch of those offshore diamond bits and they work for a
while but get a bunch of them if you are doing any serious work.

Do they just "go dull"? Or, more spectacular failures?

I tried using one of the cylindrical "grinding stones" to make a
shallow "scallop" in the edge of some reasonably soft steel.
All I succeeded in doing was wearing the stone down to nothing
(as if I was dressing a grinding wheel!).

I took out a rat tail file and got the desired result with
two or three strokes!

(i.e., I suspect the grinding stones are for use on plastic or
balsa wood)

wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 20:53:13 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:


I have a bigger set of the HF diamond points . Don't overheat them
or the diamonds fall off . Otherwise I've had good success using
them . The one that came apart was sharpening a chain saw when that
happened .

--
Snag

That pretty much says how low the quality of the HF bits are. A
chainsaw is not a very hard steel. But that just shows the overall
quality of all HF stuff, and is why I dont buy from them, or
recommend them. Ive never bought bits for a dremel tool, because I
never found them tools real useful for my needs. I got one years ago
as a gift, used the bits that came with it a few times, but I would
not even know where to find it now. However, I'd suggest the bits
from dremel, or another company that makes quality stuff. I've bought
off-brand drill bits and they are just a waste of money, as well as a
thing to **** me off when I'm trying to drill a hole. The same is
true to jigsaw, sawsall, and other saw blades.

If you think the teeth on an Oregon saw chain are soft low quality steel ,
you have some learnin' to do . You probably pay someoneto sharpen yours ,
don't you ?

--
Snag

Don Y wrote:
On 2/15/2016 7:53 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Don Y wrote:
I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I have a bigger set of the HF diamond points .

"Bigger" in terms of number of bits? Or, larger sizes?
(I'd prefer a wider range of sizes but suspect the tool
doesn't really have enough HP to do much with anything
more substantial)

Don't overheat them or the
diamonds fall off . Otherwise I've had good success using them . The
one that came apart was sharpening a chain saw when that happened .

OK, so it's reasonably "capable". (why not a round file and guide for
the saw? seems like you're tempting fate with a motorized tool --
Ooops!)

Bigger as in more in the box . I think mine had something like 50 . I was
getting started sharpening my own chains , seemed like a quick way to touch
up the chain . It was , but my inexperience let the teeth get out of balance
side/side and the saw wandered in the cut and bound .
I have since learned how to sharpen a chain properly , and about every 3rd
touch-up I use the file guide to insure I keep the correct angles and edge
profile . I can turn a 40+ foot red oak that's 16" thru at the bottom into
20" chunks in about an hour - includes lopping limbs and cutting anything 4"
and over into stove lengths too .

--
Snag

Don Y wrote:
On 2/15/2016 8:14 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 02/15/2016 06:55 PM, Don Y wrote:
Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I'd stick with Dremel bits. I've never used HF Dremel bits but their
drill bits are suitable for drilling softwood.

That's been my experience with other items that I'd expected to be
"hardened". E.g., a tap & die set was a very ornate set of
paperweights! (when tapping ALUMINUM and soft BRASS)

My HF tap and die set was OK , didn't like tapping 5/16" holes in 304
stainless though . Had 'em since like '03 or so , still chuggin' along .
Except the 5/16-18 ...

--
Snag

"Don Y" wrote in message
...

OK, so it's reasonably "capable". (why not a round file and guide for
the saw? seems like you're tempting fate with a motorized tool -- Ooops!)


I did not seem to get the hang of sharpning the chain saw with a file and
guide to do a very good job. I caught a HF electric sharpner on sale for
about $ 30 and it works fine for the few sharpenings I do every year.
Probably would want a beter quality if I did lots of chains.

Don Y wrote:
On 2/15/2016 8:38 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 18:55:50 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I have a bunch of those offshore diamond bits and they work for a
while but get a bunch of them if you are doing any serious work.

Do they just "go dull"? Or, more spectacular failures?

I tried using one of the cylindrical "grinding stones" to make a
shallow "scallop" in the edge of some reasonably soft steel.
All I succeeded in doing was wearing the stone down to nothing
(as if I was dressing a grinding wheel!).

I took out a rat tail file and got the desired result with
two or three strokes!

(i.e., I suspect the grinding stones are for use on plastic or
balsa wood)

From this and other posts in this thread , you apparently don't know how
to use a Dremel properly . I have a clamp and mount that attaches my Dremel
to my machine lathe . I use it to finish grind precision bearing and other
surfaces using those same stones you're complaining about . Most of the time
it's about choosing the proper tool for the job . You should have grabbed
the file first . Grinders - other than angle grinders , which are another
subject entirely - are usually reserved for finishing operations rather than
shaping or heavy stock removal . .
--
Snag
That enclosed "carport" out in my yard
is a well-equipped
machine shop .

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 21:22:14 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 2/15/2016 8:38 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 18:55:50 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I have a bunch of those offshore diamond bits and they work for a
while but get a bunch of them if you are doing any serious work.

Do they just "go dull"? Or, more spectacular failures?

I tried using one of the cylindrical "grinding stones" to make a
shallow "scallop" in the edge of some reasonably soft steel.
All I succeeded in doing was wearing the stone down to nothing
(as if I was dressing a grinding wheel!).

I took out a rat tail file and got the desired result with
two or three strokes!

(i.e., I suspect the grinding stones are for use on plastic or
balsa wood)


The "diamond" part stops working pretty fast. I was cutting holes in
glass and it took a bit per hole but the price was right.

I also had some of the stones and had the same result as you but it
did get the (small) job done.

I tried a radial brass brush to clean up a battery holder and again,
one bit, one job.

The real dremel bits seem a bit better.

Dremel tools are really just for working on tiny things anyway except
for chain saws. If you get the real chain saw stone, they make
sharpening a chain saw a couple minute thing. It is a lot faster than
a file and it seems to be a lot easier if you don't have a jig.
We have palm trees here and they will eat a chain (sand migrates up
into the trunk) so sharpening is a constant thing.

On 2/15/2016 9:58 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 2/15/2016 8:38 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 18:55:50 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I have a bunch of those offshore diamond bits and they work for a
while but get a bunch of them if you are doing any serious work.

Do they just "go dull"? Or, more spectacular failures?

I tried using one of the cylindrical "grinding stones" to make a
shallow "scallop" in the edge of some reasonably soft steel.
All I succeeded in doing was wearing the stone down to nothing
(as if I was dressing a grinding wheel!).

I took out a rat tail file and got the desired result with
two or three strokes!

(i.e., I suspect the grinding stones are for use on plastic or
balsa wood)

From this and other posts in this thread , you apparently don't know how
to use a Dremel properly . I have a clamp and mount that attaches my Dremel
to my machine lathe . I use it to finish grind precision bearing and other
surfaces using those same stones you're complaining about . Most of the time
it's about choosing the proper tool for the job . You should have grabbed
the file first . Grinders - other than angle grinders , which are another
subject entirely - are usually reserved for finishing operations rather than
shaping or heavy stock removal . .

Stand doesn't work when you're trying to deal with something fastened to the
ceiling or *in* a wall. Hence the value of small, and handheld.

On 2/15/2016 9:49 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...

OK, so it's reasonably "capable". (why not a round file and guide for
the saw? seems like you're tempting fate with a motorized tool -- Ooops!)


I did not seem to get the hang of sharpning the chain saw with a file and
guide to do a very good job.

I find the hardest part of sharpening (with file/guide) is keeping
the saw wedged between my thighs (as I usually sharpen it while I'm
in the middle of *using* it -- somewhere in the yard).

I caught a HF electric sharpner on sale for
about $ 30 and it works fine for the few sharpenings I do every year.
Probably would want a beter quality if I did lots of chains.

Does it have a DIFFERENT sort of built-in guide? I.e., how do you keep
from making the sorts of mistakes you'd previously made with the file?

On 2/15/2016 10:12 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 21:22:14 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 2/15/2016 8:38 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 18:55:50 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

I have a bunch of those offshore diamond bits and they work for a
while but get a bunch of them if you are doing any serious work.

Do they just "go dull"? Or, more spectacular failures?

I tried using one of the cylindrical "grinding stones" to make a
shallow "scallop" in the edge of some reasonably soft steel.
All I succeeded in doing was wearing the stone down to nothing
(as if I was dressing a grinding wheel!).

I took out a rat tail file and got the desired result with
two or three strokes!

(i.e., I suspect the grinding stones are for use on plastic or
balsa wood)

The "diamond" part stops working pretty fast. I was cutting holes in
glass and it took a bit per hole but the price was right.

So, just like other HF tools that "loose their edge" quickly.
Drill bits can be resharpened; these more ornate "milling bits"
are essentially use until discard...

I also had some of the stones and had the same result as you but it
did get the (small) job done.

I tried a radial brass brush to clean up a battery holder and again,
one bit, one job.

The real dremel bits seem a bit better.

Yeah, but CONSIDERABLY pricier. :

Dremel tools are really just for working on tiny things anyway except
for chain saws. If you get the real chain saw stone, they make
sharpening a chain saw a couple minute thing. It is a lot faster than
a file and it seems to be a lot easier if you don't have a jig.
We have palm trees here and they will eat a chain (sand migrates up
into the trunk) so sharpening is a constant thing.

Most things here are softwoods (though we have palms, as well -- I've
just never felled one... too messy to *want* one!). Pick the right
time of year (when sap isn't flowing) and they're a piece of cake.
I felled a 25 ft Mulberry (some 40 feet in dia) with just a bow saw
by carefully selecting *when* I did it.

Don Y writes:

On 2/15/2016 9:49 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...

OK, so it's reasonably "capable". (why not a round file and guide for
the saw? seems like you're tempting fate with a motorized tool -- Ooops!)


I did not seem to get the hang of sharpning the chain saw with a file and
guide to do a very good job.

I find the hardest part of sharpening (with file/guide) is keeping
the saw wedged between my thighs (as I usually sharpen it while I'm
in the middle of *using* it -- somewhere in the yard).

I lay it down.
I also don't use the guide, just the round file.
Works for me.

--
Dan Espen

On 2/15/2016 11:10 PM, Dan Espen wrote:
Don Y writes:

On 2/15/2016 9:49 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...

OK, so it's reasonably "capable". (why not a round file and guide for
the saw? seems like you're tempting fate with a motorized tool -- Ooops!)


I did not seem to get the hang of sharpning the chain saw with a file and
guide to do a very good job.

I find the hardest part of sharpening (with file/guide) is keeping
the saw wedged between my thighs (as I usually sharpen it while I'm
in the middle of *using* it -- somewhere in the yard).

I lay it down.

With the blade flat on the ground (or parallel to it)?
If so, how do you keep fuel mixture and chain oil from
seeping out?

I also don't use the guide, just the round file.

How do you keep the file from wandering too deep into the gullet?

Works for me.

I straddle the saw, bar pointing away from me, so it's not going
anywhere. Then, move the chain, by hand, until I can locate a
convenient reference (often, two left or two right cutters in
a row, instead of alternating; sometimes a different spacing
between adjacent cutters).

I *kiss* each left cutter, advance chain to next left cutter,
repeat until I've moved through the entire length of the chain.
Then, swap hands and do the right cutters.

Guide makes sure the file stays "high" on the cutter (but not
TOO high) from one to the next. Witness marks on the top side
of the guide help me hold it at the correct angle in relation to
the bar.

I have another gauge that I use to check the height of the rakers
(and a flat file for those). But, they tend not to need to be
tweeked.

Run a finger gently over each tooth to verify they "catch" my
flesh, just a bit.

I keep a wrench (to loosen the bar), screwdriver (to adjust bar tension),
file and guide in my pocket when using saw. I don't want to let the
"inconvenience" of having to return home to fetch them deter me from
keeping the saw nice and sharp.

*Big* difference between a "really sharp" chain and one that you've let
go a wee bit too long. Usually pretty obvious while you're using the saw:
does *it* do the work? Or, do *you* have to PUSH it through the wood?

If I hear a neighbor using a saw, I'll usually wander over to see
how much "work" it is for them. As it only takes a few minutes
to touch up a chain, I'll often offer to do so -- and watch their
eyes light up, afterwards, at how much easier the saw is to use.

[Of course, *they* never seem to grasp the idea that THEY should
be doing this instead of forcing a dull saw to do the work...]

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 22:28:09 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

If you think the teeth on an Oregon saw chain are soft low quality steel ,
you have some learnin' to do . You probably pay someoneto sharpen yours ,
don't you ?


Not low quality steel, but they are not made from a super hard steel
either.

You're right about paying someone, (sort of). I only have an electric
chain saw and electric pole chain saw. I gave up on gas powered ones,
because I dont use them enough and it seemed everytime I needed to use
one, the carb would have to be rebuilt, even though I would drain the
gas. If a large tree needs to be dealt with, I trade the wood to someone
to cut it down. I dont burn wood anyhow. As for my electric ones, I have
a friend who has an actual chain sharpening machine. I take him a 6-pack
and he sharpens my chain. It's a perfect job, which I could never do by
hand, and he can do it in 10 minutes. It used to take me hours to do it
by hand and it still never cut well. It was not worth my time doing it
by hand, in fact before I met this guy, I usually just touched it up a
few times with a file, then I just bought a new chain. They're not that
costly for the small electric saws.

My friend spent big money for that machine, but he uses it all the time.
For my occasional use, it would not be worth buying.

I like to do most of my own stuff, but cant see spending hours to
sharpen a chain, and still it's not right. Thats why machines are made
for jobs like that. Not only do they do a perfect job, but do it in
minutes, rather than hours.

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 23:49:05 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Don Y" wrote in message
...

OK, so it's reasonably "capable". (why not a round file and guide for
the saw? seems like you're tempting fate with a motorized tool -- Ooops!)


I did not seem to get the hang of sharpning the chain saw with a file and
guide to do a very good job. I caught a HF electric sharpner on sale for
about $ 30 and it works fine for the few sharpenings I do every year.
Probably would want a beter quality if I did lots of chains.


Years ago, I bought one of those guides, and probably spent close to $30
for it. I was never happy with the results and I still wasted at least
an hour on a chain. I think I got $2 for it when I sold it at an
auction. Replacement chains are about $18 for my small saw. Hardly worth
the cost of the guide, files, and all the time involved. In the time I
spend shapening the chain, I can have a whole tree down and cut up. Time
is money!

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 22:58:38 -0600, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

(i.e., I suspect the grinding stones are for use on plastic or
balsa wood)


I never found those tiny dremel grinder bits to last long either (on
metal). The one thing I did use mine for was grinding a nice (almost
square) hole in a door frame for a door-knob striker plate. I'd just
drill a 5/8" hole, then use the dremel tool to make a nice hole to fit
the striker plate. Much nicer job than a chisel. That's probably the
only real useful thing I got from that tool. If I need to cut off a
bolt, I use my angle grinder. A $2 wheel will cut 30 bolts, but it would
probably take $15 or $20 worth of dremel bits to cut one 3/8" bolt.

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 00:12:54 -0500, wrote:

We have palm trees here and they will eat a chain (sand migrates up
into the trunk) so sharpening is a constant thing.

Really, I never knew that. How does the sand get into the tree trunk?
That's weird!

On 2/15/2016 7:55 PM, Don Y wrote:
I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html


http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html


though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?
You should be able to find better quality bits at almost any
hardware supplier. HF bits are typically low quality.

Bill

On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 18:55:50 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?




http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...30,43409,43425

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,43072,43086



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 00:50:56 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I lay it down.

With the blade flat on the ground (or parallel to it)?
If so, how do you keep fuel mixture and chain oil from
seeping out?


Huh?
My old ranger 33 won't leak gas or oil in any position.
I still sharpen it sitting upright.

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 05:20:51 -0600, wrote:

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 00:12:54 -0500, wrote:

We have palm trees here and they will eat a chain (sand migrates up
into the trunk) so sharpening is a constant thing.

Really, I never knew that. How does the sand get into the tree trunk?
That's weird!

It gets pulled up with the water. This is not beach sand, it is a very
fine grit but it will knock the edge off of chain saw teeth right
away. The closer to the ground you get, the more sand so always start
cutting up a palm log from the top and when you get about 6-8 feet
from the root end, plan on sharpening your saw a couple times before
you are done. If I really do not need to cut it off right at the
ground, I will take a palm about eye high and leave the rest. After
about a year, you can just push it over. The roots rot out pretty fast
after it dies. On a sable, shove a bunch of air plants in the boots
and it looks like you planned it to be that way.

Don Y writes:

On 2/15/2016 11:10 PM, Dan Espen wrote:
Don Y writes:

On 2/15/2016 9:49 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...

OK, so it's reasonably "capable". (why not a round file and guide for
the saw? seems like you're tempting fate with a motorized tool -- Ooops!)


I did not seem to get the hang of sharpning the chain saw with a file and
guide to do a very good job.

I find the hardest part of sharpening (with file/guide) is keeping
the saw wedged between my thighs (as I usually sharpen it while I'm
in the middle of *using* it -- somewhere in the yard).

I lay it down.

With the blade flat on the ground (or parallel to it)?
If so, how do you keep fuel mixture and chain oil from
seeping out?

I keep it upright, just put it down.

I also don't use the guide, just the round file.

How do you keep the file from wandering too deep into the gullet?

Just put the file into the round grove. I realize it's the upper part
that needs the sharp edge so I press a little upward.

Works for me.

I straddle the saw, bar pointing away from me, so it's not going
anywhere. Then, move the chain, by hand, until I can locate a
convenient reference (often, two left or two right cutters in
a row, instead of alternating; sometimes a different spacing
between adjacent cutters).

I *kiss* each left cutter, advance chain to next left cutter,
repeat until I've moved through the entire length of the chain.
Then, swap hands and do the right cutters.

Guide makes sure the file stays "high" on the cutter (but not
TOO high) from one to the next. Witness marks on the top side
of the guide help me hold it at the correct angle in relation to
the bar.

I have another gauge that I use to check the height of the rakers
(and a flat file for those). But, they tend not to need to be
tweeked.

Run a finger gently over each tooth to verify they "catch" my
flesh, just a bit.

I keep a wrench (to loosen the bar), screwdriver (to adjust bar tension),
file and guide in my pocket when using saw. I don't want to let the
"inconvenience" of having to return home to fetch them deter me from
keeping the saw nice and sharp.

*Big* difference between a "really sharp" chain and one that you've let
go a wee bit too long. Usually pretty obvious while you're using the saw:
does *it* do the work? Or, do *you* have to PUSH it through the wood?

If I hear a neighbor using a saw, I'll usually wander over to see
how much "work" it is for them. As it only takes a few minutes
to touch up a chain, I'll often offer to do so -- and watch their
eyes light up, afterwards, at how much easier the saw is to use.

[Of course, *they* never seem to grasp the idea that THEY should
be doing this instead of forcing a dull saw to do the work...]

Yes, I get the same "cuts better" effect from sharpening.
After Sandy I had a crew come in with one guy that seemed to really
know what he was doing. He sharpened his saw the same way. Just
a round file.

--
Dan Espen

"Don Y" wrote in message
...
On 2/15/2016 9:49 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...


I caught a HF electric sharpner on sale for
about $ 30 and it works fine for the few sharpenings I do every year.
Probably would want a beter quality if I did lots of chains.

Does it have a DIFFERENT sort of built-in guide? I.e., how do you keep
from making the sorts of mistakes you'd previously made with the file?


This sharpner looks something similar to a small chop saw or miter saw with
an abrasive wheel. YOu place the chain in a guide and adjust the wheel to
where you want it to cut and how deep to cut. After that all you have to do
is just move the wheel down and up and advance the chain to the next
position. When all the teeth going one way are sharpened you move it to the
new position and sharpen the other teeth. This is done with the chain off
the saw so it does pay to have an extra chain with you if away from the
house. The saw cuts great after this as all the teeth are the same.

If I did much sharpening I would get one of the beter quality ones, but I
thought for less than $ 30 it would be worth a try no more sharpening than I
do.

"Dan Espen" wrote in message
...
Yes, I get the same "cuts better" effect from sharpening.
After Sandy I had a crew come in with one guy that seemed to really
know what he was doing. He sharpened his saw the same way. Just
a round file.

--
Some seem to have good skills at doing things free hand, but I don't seem to
be able to. When I paint I have to tape where I don't want it to go and
cover every thing that I don't want painted. The actual paint job looks
good, but I make a big mess on the drop cloths. Same with the chain saw. I
put mine in a vise in the shop and use file and guide and it just barley
cuts beter than before I sharpen it. The HF sharpner works very well for me
as after I adjust it, it is just mechanical work and no skill.

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 09:45:38 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 05:20:51 -0600, wrote:

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 00:12:54 -0500, wrote:

We have palm trees here and they will eat a chain (sand migrates up
into the trunk) so sharpening is a constant thing.

Really, I never knew that. How does the sand get into the tree trunk?
That's weird!

It gets pulled up with the water. This is not beach sand, it is a very
fine grit but it will knock the edge off of chain saw teeth right
away. The closer to the ground you get, the more sand so always start
cutting up a palm log from the top and when you get about 6-8 feet
from the root end, plan on sharpening your saw a couple times before
you are done. If I really do not need to cut it off right at the
ground, I will take a palm about eye high and leave the rest. After
about a year, you can just push it over. The roots rot out pretty fast
after it dies. On a sable, shove a bunch of air plants in the boots
and it looks like you planned it to be that way.

Thanks for the info. I learned something new. I have never dealt with
palm trees since they dont grow up here in the north.
Apparently their wood is very porous.
Is there any use for that wood? For lumber or firewood?

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 10:10:13 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:

a round file.

--
Some seem to have good skills at doing things free hand, but I don't seem to
be able to. When I paint I have to tape where I don't want it to go and
cover every thing that I don't want painted. The actual paint job looks
good, but I make a big mess on the drop cloths. Same with the chain saw. I
put mine in a vise in the shop and use file and guide and it just barley
cuts beter than before I sharpen it. The HF sharpner works very well for me
as after I adjust it, it is just mechanical work and no skill.


I can paint freehand better than I can using tape, because tape often
bleeds, or pulls off paint when I remove the tape. I just use a quality
angle brush.

But I cant sharpen a chain saw worth ****, freehand or even with a
guide. I also cant sharpen drill bits, and I've read articles and did
everything I was supposed to.... Some things are best left to the pros,
and their top of the line machines.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 10:10:13 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:

I can paint freehand better than I can using tape, because tape often
bleeds, or pulls off paint when I remove the tape. I just use a quality
angle brush.

But I cant sharpen a chain saw worth ****, freehand or even with a
guide. I also cant sharpen drill bits, and I've read articles and did
everything I was supposed to.... Some things are best left to the pros,
and their top of the line machines.


I received a Drill Doctor machine for Christmas a few years ago. Works well
on the bits that I never learned to sharpen. No more than I use a drill I
probably would have been beter off if I just buy new drill bits any time I
needed a sharp one.

On 2/16/2016 7:48 AM, Dan Espen wrote:
I also don't use the guide, just the round file.

How do you keep the file from wandering too deep into the gullet?

Just put the file into the round grove. I realize it's the upper part
that needs the sharp edge so I press a little upward.

Even with the guide, I have an overwhelming "urge" to move the
file lower into the gullet. It is only the guide that prevents
me from doing so (I invariably have to examine the guide to see
why it won't let me put the file where *I* want it to go!)

*Big* difference between a "really sharp" chain and one that you've let
go a wee bit too long. Usually pretty obvious while you're using the saw:
does *it* do the work? Or, do *you* have to PUSH it through the wood?

Yes, I get the same "cuts better" effect from sharpening.
After Sandy I had a crew come in with one guy that seemed to really
know what he was doing. He sharpened his saw the same way. Just
a round file.

Keeping it "on hand" (so there's no disincentive to using it) and
not getting carried away (trying to remove too much material)
seems to make it easier to keep the saw (chain) operating at its
sweet spot.

I've a healthy respect for chainsaws; never want to find myself
"forcing it" -- to do ANYTHING! :

On 2/16/2016 7:04 AM, Bill Gill wrote:
On 2/15/2016 7:55 PM, Don Y wrote:
I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html


http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html



though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?
You should be able to find better quality bits at almost any
hardware supplier. HF bits are typically low quality.

Yes, but most "stores" sell either individual bits (at an ooutrageous
price) *or* "864 piece kits" (with 863 of them being little bits of
sandpaper!).

I was hoping to find a *kit* of metal bits similar to what I posted
(above URLs) -- in a better price than the $6/each (bit!) by way
of being part of a larger "collection" (yet better quality than the
HF stuff)

On 2/16/2016 8:03 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...
On 2/15/2016 9:49 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...


I caught a HF electric sharpner on sale for
about $ 30 and it works fine for the few sharpenings I do every year.
Probably would want a beter quality if I did lots of chains.

Does it have a DIFFERENT sort of built-in guide? I.e., how do you keep
from making the sorts of mistakes you'd previously made with the file?


This sharpner looks something similar to a small chop saw or miter saw with
an abrasive wheel. YOu place the chain in a guide and adjust the wheel to
where you want it to cut and how deep to cut.

Is this a "judgement call"? Or, does the guide effectively *tell*
you where to set the adjustment?

I.e., can you screw this up (and ruin your chain)?

After that all you have to do
is just move the wheel down and up and advance the chain to the next

Are you entering the cutter from the *side*? I can't see how you can go
"up and down" and still keep the cutting corner with that slight "leading
overhang"...

position. When all the teeth going one way are sharpened you move it to the
new position and sharpen the other teeth. This is done with the chain off
the saw so it does pay to have an extra chain with you if away from the
house. The saw cuts great after this as all the teeth are the same.

If I did much sharpening I would get one of the beter quality ones, but I
thought for less than $ 30 it would be worth a try no more sharpening than I
do.

I will have to look at it next time at HF. I suspect the fact that
it "requires electricity" (meaning it wouldn't be useful outside
the house) may work against it.

On 2/16/2016 7:32 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 18:55:50 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...30,43409,43425

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,43072,43086

These appear to be "abrasive" (as in "gritty"). I was hoping for
something more along the lines of:
http://i01.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/940/215/579/579215940_461.jpg

I want to be able to aggressively remove material -- within the constraints
of the dinky abilities of such a tool.

In the past, I've used this to:
- "route" channels for wires between dimensioned lumber and drywall
- reshape a weep hole in the bottom (metal) pan of swamp cooler
- shape PVC parts to specific contours
- remove high spots on (installed!) aluminum and copper flashing
etc.

I.e., places where "fineness of finish" isn't as important as
"(re)moving a lot in a little time"

On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 11:28:48 -0600, wrote:

Thanks for the info. I learned something new. I have never dealt with
palm trees since they dont grow up here in the north.
Apparently their wood is very porous.
Is there any use for that wood? For lumber or firewood?


Not really.

Don Y posted for all of us...



On 2/16/2016 7:32 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 15 Feb 2016 18:55:50 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I tend to use my (off-brand) mototool as a grinder/minirouter.
So, most of the 8,000 bits in these "kits" are useless sanding
disks, sanding drums, etc. Essentially useless for my needs.

I'd like to buy a similar "kit" of USEFUL (to me) metal bits. Like:

http://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-point-rotary-bit-set-20-pc-69653.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/high-carbon-steel-rotary-rasp-set-10-pc-68830.html

though I am always leary of HF's quality.

Any other sources of similar "bits"? Or, experiences with either
of the above?

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...30,43409,43425

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,43072,43086

These appear to be "abrasive" (as in "gritty"). I was hoping for
something more along the lines of:
http://i01.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/940/215/579/579215940_461.jpg

I want to be able to aggressively remove material -- within the constraints
of the dinky abilities of such a tool.

In the past, I've used this to:
- "route" channels for wires between dimensioned lumber and drywall
- reshape a weep hole in the bottom (metal) pan of swamp cooler
- shape PVC parts to specific contours
- remove high spots on (installed!) aluminum and copper flashing
etc.

I.e., places where "fineness of finish" isn't as important as
"(re)moving a lot in a little time"

These are burrs or cutters. Made to be used in a router. I doubt a Dremel
has enough HP to do the job.

--
Tekkie

"Don Y" wrote in message
...
On 2/16/2016 8:03 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...
On 2/15/2016 9:49 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...


I caught a HF electric sharpner on sale for
about $ 30 and it works fine for the few sharpenings I do every year.
Probably would want a beter quality if I did lots of chains.

Does it have a DIFFERENT sort of built-in guide? I.e., how do you keep
from making the sorts of mistakes you'd previously made with the file?


This sharpner looks something similar to a small chop saw or miter saw
with
an abrasive wheel. YOu place the chain in a guide and adjust the wheel
to
where you want it to cut and how deep to cut.

Is this a "judgement call"? Or, does the guide effectively *tell*
you where to set the adjustment?

I.e., can you screw this up (and ruin your chain)?

After that all you have to do
is just move the wheel down and up and advance the chain to the next

Are you entering the cutter from the *side*? I can't see how you can go
"up and down" and still keep the cutting corner with that slight "leading
overhang"...

position. When all the teeth going one way are sharpened you move it to
the
new position and sharpen the other teeth. This is done with the chain
off
the saw so it does pay to have an extra chain with you if away from the
house. The saw cuts great after this as all the teeth are the same.

If I did much sharpening I would get one of the beter quality ones, but I
thought for less than $ 30 it would be worth a try no more sharpening
than I
do.

I will have to look at it next time at HF. I suspect the fact that
it "requires electricity" (meaning it wouldn't be useful outside
the house) may work against it.


YOu do have to adjust the cutting wheel to where you want it to go. If you
do not pay attention on where to set it, you could probably cut all the way
through the chain. It comes down with the wheel at an angle, maybe around
30 deg off vertical, what ever the chain needs. That is why I tried to
compair it to an electric miter saw, one that is made to cut molding for a
room. Then the chain is in a movable bracket that you can turn left and
right to match the angle of the cut much as a file would need to be held to
match the angle of the cutting part of the chain.

You do need to check the settings every time you put another chain on to
sharpen.

If you need to cut down the rakes or what ever they are called, you can do
that to.

As it does use electricity and requires removing the chain from the saw you
would want to carry an extra chain or two with you. Probably quicker to
change the chain than to sharpen one in the woods unless you really know
what you are doing with the files.

They are usually around $ 40 but often with the coupon from HF you can find
them on sale for just under $ 30. There are some comercial duty ones from
other companies that start around $ 100 to $ 150. If sharpening lots of
chains you would want one of the beter ones, but as I only sharpen a few a
year if it does 20 chains for me, it is worth it. I can toss it and buy
another. That would get me to an age old enough I should not be fooling with
the saws.