On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 18:30:49 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:

YOu do have to adjust the cutting wheel to where you want it to go. If you
do not pay attention on where to set it, you could probably cut all the way
through the chain. It comes down with the wheel at an angle, maybe around
30 deg off vertical, what ever the chain needs. That is why I tried to
compair it to an electric miter saw, one that is made to cut molding for a
room. Then the chain is in a movable bracket that you can turn left and
right to match the angle of the cut much as a file would need to be held to
match the angle of the cutting part of the chain.

You do need to check the settings every time you put another chain on to
sharpen.

If you need to cut down the rakes or what ever they are called, you can do
that to.

As it does use electricity and requires removing the chain from the saw you
would want to carry an extra chain or two with you. Probably quicker to
change the chain than to sharpen one in the woods unless you really know
what you are doing with the files.

They are usually around $ 40 but often with the coupon from HF you can find
them on sale for just under $ 30. There are some comercial duty ones from
other companies that start around $ 100 to $ 150. If sharpening lots of
chains you would want one of the beter ones, but as I only sharpen a few a
year if it does 20 chains for me, it is worth it. I can toss it and buy
another. That would get me to an age old enough I should not be fooling with
the saws.


I dont plan to buy one from HF, but I'd like to see a picture of it.
What is it listed under on the HF website? (Or the page URL)?

wrote in message
...

I dont plan to buy one from HF, but I'd like to see a picture of it.
What is it listed under on the HF website? (Or the page URL)?


This is the HF number. Usually every couple of months they have a coupon
for just under $ 30. Or you could use the weekly 20% off.

Item #61613

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...n+saw+sharpner

Lowes has one that looks similar for about $ 43.

Home Depot seems to have 2 brands that are similar.

I bet they are all made in or near the same place in China.

You can go to You Tube and look around for them to see them use.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n89jWZ7x0ZM

I put mine on a piece of 2x4 about a foot long and clamp it in my vise when
I want to use it.

posted for all of us...

I dont plan to buy one from HF, but I'd like to see a picture of it.
What is it listed under on the HF website? (Or the page URL)?

Jeezus you are too lazy to look something like this up yourself.

What a putz.

--
Tekkie

Hi Ralph,

On 2/16/2016 4:30 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

YOu do have to adjust the cutting wheel to where you want it to go. If you
do not pay attention on where to set it, you could probably cut all the way
through the chain.

Do you do that "by eye"? I.e., with the device powered off, lower it
into/onto the blade until it's "where you want it". Then, set a
"stop", retract the mechanism and begin sharpening?

It comes down with the wheel at an angle, maybe around
30 deg off vertical, what ever the chain needs. That is why I tried to
compair it to an electric miter saw, one that is made to cut molding for a
room.

OK, so it's going "in and out" (on an angle, from the side, so to speak)
instead of "up and down".

Then the chain is in a movable bracket that you can turn left and
right to match the angle of the cut much as a file would need to be held to
match the angle of the cutting part of the chain.

You do need to check the settings every time you put another chain on to
sharpen.

Because of variations in chains? Or, because you can't get the new chain
into exactly the same spot that the previous chain was in?

If you need to cut down the rakes or what ever they are called, you can do
that to.

As it does use electricity and requires removing the chain from the saw you
would want to carry an extra chain or two with you. Probably quicker to
change the chain than to sharpen one in the woods unless you really know
what you are doing with the files.

I've sharpened so many chains with a round file+guide that it's now
almost second nature. But, I don't let a chain "get real bad"
before touching it up. So, there's nothing discouraging me from
doing it (whereas if I'd let the chain get really bad, I'd want to
postpone sharpening it -- cuz it was going to be a big ordeal.
That, in turn, means the chain will end up duller when I finally get
around to doing it. frown Easier to just keep it sharp with
a LITTLE effort so it only ever NEEDS a little effort!)

They are usually around $ 40 but often with the coupon from HF you can find
them on sale for just under $ 30. There are some comercial duty ones from
other companies that start around $ 100 to $ 150. If sharpening lots of
chains you would want one of the beter ones, but as I only sharpen a few a
year if it does 20 chains for me, it is worth it. I can toss it and buy
another. That would get me to an age old enough I should not be fooling with
the saws.

You should always stop "fooling with the saws" -- or any tool/activity, for
that matter -- the day *before* you screw up! :

I've inherited a few tools from a friend. Whenever I protest (i.e., I
really don't need to OWN one of these -- esp if I can come borrow YOURS!),
he holds up his mangled (injured) hands with missing parts as if to
prove *he* doesn't need it, either!

On 2/16/2016 5:25 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
wrote in message
...

I dont plan to buy one from HF, but I'd like to see a picture of it.
What is it listed under on the HF website? (Or the page URL)?

This is the HF number. Usually every couple of months they have a coupon
for just under $ 30. Or you could use the weekly 20% off.

Item #61613

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...n+saw+sharpner

Yikes! It's BIG! Would almost require as much space as the *saw* to store it!

Lowes has one that looks similar for about $ 43.

Home Depot seems to have 2 brands that are similar.

I bet they are all made in or near the same place in China.

People's Chain Saw Sharpener Factory #8774

You can go to You Tube and look around for them to see them use.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n89jWZ7x0ZM

Seemed to have only interested itself in unboxing and skipped
over how to set it up for a particular chain. (no doubt another
video! : )

I put mine on a piece of 2x4 about a foot long and clamp it in my vise when
I want to use it.

Makes sense. Not the sort of thing you'd probably want to leave out,
taking up bench space!

"Don Y" wrote in message
...
YOu do have to adjust the cutting wheel to where you want it to go. If
you
do not pay attention on where to set it, you could probably cut all the
way
through the chain.

Do you do that "by eye"? I.e., with the device powered off, lower it
into/onto the blade until it's "where you want it". Then, set a
"stop", retract the mechanism and begin sharpening?

With the power off the wheel you lower the cutting wheel and adjust it 'by
eye' and set a stop as to how far down you want it to cut. There is another
adjustment as to where the chain stops at. Once you get the two or three
adjustments made all you have to do is advance the chain to the next tooth
and bring the wheel down. When this is done for all the teeth facing one
direction you move the part that holds the chain to the othe side and then
repeat the cutting of the othe teeth.


It comes down with the wheel at an angle, maybe around
30 deg off vertical, what ever the chain needs. That is why I tried to
compair it to an electric miter saw, one that is made to cut molding for
a
room.


You do need to check the settings every time you put another chain on to
sharpen.

Because of variations in chains? Or, because you can't get the new chain
into exactly the same spot that the previous chain was in?


Because of the variations in the chain. If you start with a new chain for
the first sharpening, the second sharpening will need to be adjusted to
compensate for the removed material of the chain tooth.



I've sharpened so many chains with a round file+guide that it's now
almost second nature. But, I don't let a chain "get real bad"
before touching it up. So, there's nothing discouraging me from
doing it (whereas if I'd let the chain get really bad, I'd want to
postpone sharpening it -- cuz it was going to be a big ordeal.
That, in turn, means the chain will end up duller when I finally get
around to doing it. frown Easier to just keep it sharp with
a LITTLE effort so it only ever NEEDS a little effort!)


It probably would be easier to hit it with a file if you have the skill to
do it. I just don't seem to be able to develope that skill. I don't use
the saw very much so don't get a chance to practice. For less than $ 30 it
is about the cost of the files and guides. If it only sharpens about 10
chains it would be worth the cost.

On 2/19/2016 10:54 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...
YOu do have to adjust the cutting wheel to where you want it to go. If
you
do not pay attention on where to set it, you could probably cut all the
way
through the chain.

Do you do that "by eye"? I.e., with the device powered off, lower it
into/onto the blade until it's "where you want it". Then, set a
"stop", retract the mechanism and begin sharpening?

With the power off the wheel you lower the cutting wheel and adjust it 'by
eye' and set a stop as to how far down you want it to cut. There is another
adjustment as to where the chain stops at. Once you get the two or three
adjustments made all you have to do is advance the chain to the next tooth
and bring the wheel down. When this is done for all the teeth facing one
direction you move the part that holds the chain to the othe side and then
repeat the cutting of the othe teeth.

OK. And, the chains where the chain length precludes "evenly spaced"
teeth you would notice a cutter "in the wrong position" (it would be
out of place by one or more "links" so unlikely you'll fail to notice)

You do need to check the settings every time you put another chain on to
sharpen.

Because of variations in chains? Or, because you can't get the new chain
into exactly the same spot that the previous chain was in?

Because of the variations in the chain. If you start with a new chain for
the first sharpening, the second sharpening will need to be adjusted to
compensate for the removed material of the chain tooth.

OK.

I've sharpened so many chains with a round file+guide that it's now
almost second nature. But, I don't let a chain "get real bad"
before touching it up. So, there's nothing discouraging me from
doing it (whereas if I'd let the chain get really bad, I'd want to
postpone sharpening it -- cuz it was going to be a big ordeal.
That, in turn, means the chain will end up duller when I finally get
around to doing it. frown Easier to just keep it sharp with
a LITTLE effort so it only ever NEEDS a little effort!)

It probably would be easier to hit it with a file if you have the skill to
do it. I just don't seem to be able to develope that skill. I don't use
the saw very much so don't get a chance to practice. For less than $ 30 it
is about the cost of the files and guides. If it only sharpens about 10
chains it would be worth the cost.

No doubt! I'm overly concerned with storing things as we don't really have
(enough) places to do so. E.g., no attic or basement so that leaves
closets and garage. Garage gets warm -- even with insulated door -- and
I'm not keen on reaching into boxes that have been out there (scorpions,
black widow spiders, etc.).

So, I opt for small things that I can "inspect" at a glance ("Any spiders
hiding in that mechanism?"). All of my "power tools" (larger items) are
stored in "sealed" containers -- which means they take up even MORE space!