On 2/19/2016 10:54 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Don Y" wrote in message
...
YOu do have to adjust the cutting wheel to where you want it to go. If
you
do not pay attention on where to set it, you could probably cut all the
way
through the chain.

Do you do that "by eye"? I.e., with the device powered off, lower it
into/onto the blade until it's "where you want it". Then, set a
"stop", retract the mechanism and begin sharpening?

With the power off the wheel you lower the cutting wheel and adjust it 'by
eye' and set a stop as to how far down you want it to cut. There is another
adjustment as to where the chain stops at. Once you get the two or three
adjustments made all you have to do is advance the chain to the next tooth
and bring the wheel down. When this is done for all the teeth facing one
direction you move the part that holds the chain to the othe side and then
repeat the cutting of the othe teeth.

OK. And, the chains where the chain length precludes "evenly spaced"
teeth you would notice a cutter "in the wrong position" (it would be
out of place by one or more "links" so unlikely you'll fail to notice)

You do need to check the settings every time you put another chain on to
sharpen.

Because of variations in chains? Or, because you can't get the new chain
into exactly the same spot that the previous chain was in?

Because of the variations in the chain. If you start with a new chain for
the first sharpening, the second sharpening will need to be adjusted to
compensate for the removed material of the chain tooth.

OK.

I've sharpened so many chains with a round file+guide that it's now
almost second nature. But, I don't let a chain "get real bad"
before touching it up. So, there's nothing discouraging me from
doing it (whereas if I'd let the chain get really bad, I'd want to
postpone sharpening it -- cuz it was going to be a big ordeal.
That, in turn, means the chain will end up duller when I finally get
around to doing it. frown Easier to just keep it sharp with
a LITTLE effort so it only ever NEEDS a little effort!)

It probably would be easier to hit it with a file if you have the skill to
do it. I just don't seem to be able to develope that skill. I don't use
the saw very much so don't get a chance to practice. For less than $ 30 it
is about the cost of the files and guides. If it only sharpens about 10
chains it would be worth the cost.

No doubt! I'm overly concerned with storing things as we don't really have
(enough) places to do so. E.g., no attic or basement so that leaves
closets and garage. Garage gets warm -- even with insulated door -- and
I'm not keen on reaching into boxes that have been out there (scorpions,
black widow spiders, etc.).

So, I opt for small things that I can "inspect" at a glance ("Any spiders
hiding in that mechanism?"). All of my "power tools" (larger items) are
stored in "sealed" containers -- which means they take up even MORE space!