On 10/20/2015 7:53 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/20/2015 12:42 PM, Cindy Hamilton wrote:
We have one, too. Sadly, my husband's shoulder isn't up to the task
of feeding in the brush anymore. I'd like to sell it, but he's
paranoid (probably rightly so) about craigslist and similar venues.

If you don't like the potential buyer, just give them an up close demo of how
the chipper works.

"We're gonna need another Timmy!"

On 10/20/2015 10:36 AM, Don Y wrote:
It looks like you're using the same sort of criteria that I've adopted:
things with no or few/coarse moving parts. Or, low usage/disposable.

That's about it but I did buy a small bench vise that I took back the
next day. All I was asking of it was to hold a sear I was stoning but
the jaws were too sloppy and out of parallel to even do that. I went
down the road to the ranch supply and got another cheap Chinese version
that was usable.

On 10/20/2015 04:20 PM, wrote:
Our local Naperville Illinois police department encourages folks to use its parking lot for transactions.

I lived in a small Maine town two doors down from the police station.
They had a big lot and didn't mind me parking there. Then one night the
locals rolled one of the cops personal ride over because they were
****ed at him. I wasn't so confident after that.

Stephen King novels set in southern Maine aren't really novels, that's
just how it is.

On 10/20/2015 8:01 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/20/2015 10:36 AM, Don Y wrote:
It looks like you're using the same sort of criteria that I've adopted:
things with no or few/coarse moving parts. Or, low usage/disposable.

That's about it but I did buy a small bench vise that I took back the next day.
All I was asking of it was to hold a sear I was stoning but the jaws were too
sloppy and out of parallel to even do that. I went down the road to the ranch
supply and got another cheap Chinese version that was usable.

For years, I've been telling myself I should get a decent bench vise.
But, each time I *think* I *really* need one, I manage to come up with
a way to NOT need it. This is A Good Thing because finding a place
to *mount* one would be a real chore! :-/

On 10/20/2015 2:30 AM, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 00:00:51 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 10/19/2015 11:58 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/19/2015 10:45 PM, Don Y wrote:
So, the question is, what tools to avoid, consider and criteria
used in making those decisions? And criteria to use in "broad brush"
dismissals of whole categories of tools?

I have some of their sockets and open wrenches that aren't too bad.
They're in an unsecured tool tube on the bike so if they're ripped off I
haven't lost much.

A floor jack spit the lift pad at me the first time I used it. After
replacing the rivet it's serviceable. I have an electric impact driver
that works. I don't use it very often but for the price, around $50
iirc, it was worth it.

A set of number drills works okay for soft material. C-clamps are hard
to screw up. A chain breaker did its job. A tubing flaring tool was
utter crap.

Fortunately I can walk to HF during lunch hour and see the stuff first
hand. It's too hit or miss otherwise.

I bought a small chipper shredder there and so far it works fine.


Shredder? Is this for paper?

No. It's for chopping/shredding up small tree branches and leaves.

Chipper? You're quite a gal. I don't know anyone who owns his own
one of those.


It's just an electric chipper, and it only does small branches.

--
Maggie

On 10/20/2015 1:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 3:48:03 PM UTC-4, Don Y wrote:
On 10/20/2015 11:42 AM, Cindy Hamilton wrote:
On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 3:30:49 AM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 00:00:51 -0500, Muggles wrote:

I bought a small chipper shredder there and so far it works fine.

Shredder? Is this for paper?

Chipper? You're quite a gal. I don't know anyone who owns his own
one of those.

We have one, too. Sadly, my husband's shoulder isn't up to the task
of feeding in the brush anymore. I'd like to sell it, but he's
paranoid (probably rightly so) about craigslist and similar venues.

Use a disposable (i.e., not one that you want to KEEP) email account
for selling on CL. Don't bring them to your house (may not be possible
depending on the item) but, instead, arrange to meet somewhere else,
"public"). Insist on cash. Have a friend with you during the transaction.

Craigslist uses a 2-way mail relay, which hides the actual email addresses
used during an email conversation.

*If* you opt to use their relay!

Using their relay puts another dependency in your email exchanges;
i.e., both parties rely on CL's servers being up and accessible
(they've been hacked in the past).

But, it also leaves your "means of communication" subject to
article expiration *and* cancelation! So, if the item you are opting
to sell, ISO, etc. doesn't see any action in the "expiration period"
(varies by type of post), CL takes itself out of the "loop".

So, if someone saved (printed, etc.) your CL post but didn't immediately
act on it at that time, there is a risk that they may not be able to
respond when they want to respond.

And, if folks "prohibit" your post (because you are competing with
their post *or* because they want to take advantage of your post
and prevent others from seeing it), then the linkage disappears.

Finally, the sites that "harvest" CL posts (sort of mirroring)
don't always successfully preserve the CL links (esp see above).

Putting a (disposable) email address *in* the post (even if trivially
disguised) allows anyone who sees the body of your post to contact
you UNTIL *YOU* CANCEL THE (disposable) EMAIL ACCOUNT!

[This is a huge advantage over telephone contacts -- where you can't
easily change your contact number!]

However, anything that is in the body of the email, as well as the "real
name" field is passed to the recipient. For example, if you have any
personal information in your signature, such as a phone number or email
address, obviously that is going to be passed to the recipient.

Actually, I think if you use the relay, CL checks the message
body for email addresses and won't accept the message with that
content. (I'd have to double-check that)

I have a couple of email addresses that I use for website registrations,
others that I use for Craigslist, eBay, etc. I get spam on the
"registration" email addresses, but the Craigslist and eBay ones have
stayed clean for years. None of those email addresses have any personally
identifiable information, not even my real name.

I routinely create and discard email addresses. Where possible, I'll
try *truly* "disposable address services" but those are becoming
too well known and many sites will scan for their attempted use,
and blocking them.

On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 23:26:29 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 10/20/2015 2:30 AM, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 00:00:51 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 10/19/2015 11:58 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/19/2015 10:45 PM, Don Y wrote:
So, the question is, what tools to avoid, consider and criteria
used in making those decisions? And criteria to use in "broad brush"
dismissals of whole categories of tools?

I have some of their sockets and open wrenches that aren't too bad.
They're in an unsecured tool tube on the bike so if they're ripped off I
haven't lost much.

A floor jack spit the lift pad at me the first time I used it. After
replacing the rivet it's serviceable. I have an electric impact driver
that works. I don't use it very often but for the price, around $50
iirc, it was worth it.

A set of number drills works okay for soft material. C-clamps are hard
to screw up. A chain breaker did its job. A tubing flaring tool was
utter crap.

Fortunately I can walk to HF during lunch hour and see the stuff first
hand. It's too hit or miss otherwise.

I bought a small chipper shredder there and so far it works fine.


Shredder? Is this for paper?

No. It's for chopping/shredding up small tree branches and leaves.

Chipper? You're quite a gal. I don't know anyone who owns his own
one of those.


It's just an electric chipper, and it only does small branches.

I never heard of that before.

I read the Freecycle mailing list, and when I reply I always give my
phone number. When I offer something, I give my phone number if they
let me, and certainly in my first reply to anyone who answer. It
takes so much less time by phone, but only one person has ever called
me.

One woman insisted on meeting me in a shopping center. First she
offered to drop it off at my house but when I lived 3 miles away that
was too much, so i had to meet her near her. 10 emails back and forth
to pick the time, and after all that, she didn't tell me what her car
looked like. I drove all over the big lot and then waited near the
entrance.

I was supposed to get a 9" and 14" tv, but it was a typo and I got
stuck with a 19" tv. I had no choice but to take it.

Then she said she had some remotes, and she also said she thought she
recognized me. We agreed that I used to run the outdoor club she was
a member of, 20 years ago. I emailed, well, since you've known me for
20 years, maybe you could leave the remotes outside your house and I
could pick them up. No. Or you could drop them off. No. They
weren't for the tv's she gave me so I gave up on them.

I did about 20 events a year for 8 years and I don't actually remember
either her or her name. She must have been a lot younger and cuter
then but I still don't remember her. And she thinks I will attack
her now? Gimme a break.

Most other people are far less scared, say where they live, let me
come over at night even. Although I had a guy who gave me a
water-immersed camera who was practically naked when he answered the
door. He didn't do anything untoward, however. I coudl have fixed
the camera except they no longer make the cell battery that was inside
it. The replacement is probably too big to fit.

On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 09:36:00 -0700, Don Y
wrote:


Hmmmm... I will have to note that. The guy who gave me the jack stands also
gave me a (tiny) floor jack (not a bottle jack). As with most HF things,
I'm not keen on putting my body *under* something that it must support!

20 yeas ago I bought jack stands from Western Auto. 4 or 5 years
later, a friend was using them to work on his car and one of them
partially collapsed. He wasn't under it though. Just the Plymouth
ewquivalent of a LeBaron, nothing heavy.


when I took it back, I didnt' want to spring for the next higher
price, so I took another pair just like the ones I had. So far they
haven't broken but when I worked on my car the last time, I used 4
jack stands and two jacks at the same time. I was still scared.

On 10/20/2015 10:59 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 10/20/2015 7:53 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/20/2015 12:42 PM, Cindy Hamilton wrote:
We have one, too. Sadly, my husband's shoulder isn't up to the task
of feeding in the brush anymore. I'd like to sell it, but he's
paranoid (probably rightly so) about craigslist and similar venues.

If you don't like the potential buyer, just give them an up close demo
of how
the chipper works.

"We're gonna need another Timmy!"



"I didn't know you were ..... think I'll head off, now."

"Now, cut that out!"

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/21/2015 1:08 AM, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 09:36:00 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

Hmmmm... I will have to note that. The guy who gave me the jack stands also
gave me a (tiny) floor jack (not a bottle jack). As with most HF things,
I'm not keen on putting my body *under* something that it must support!

20 yeas ago I bought jack stands from Western Auto. 4 or 5 years
later, a friend was using them to work on his car and one of them
partially collapsed. He wasn't under it though. Just the Plymouth
ewquivalent of a LeBaron, nothing heavy.

when I took it back, I didnt' want to spring for the next higher
price, so I took another pair just like the ones I had. So far they
haven't broken but when I worked on my car the last time, I used 4
jack stands and two jacks at the same time. I was still scared.

The problem with things like jack stands is they *seem* to fit the
criteria of "simple, no moving parts" -- sort of like autobody tools,
anvils, etc.: "Can't *possibly* be anything 'wrong' with something
as simple as this!"

But, few folks can look at a casting and determine if the metal is
brittle, porous, etc. I.e., will it actually support the expected
load or will it fail. How thick does that thing REALLY need to be to
meet it's stated characteristics?

On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 11:26:26 PM UTC-5, Muggles wrote:
On 10/20/2015 2:30 AM, Micky wrote:

Shredder? Is this for paper?

No. It's for chopping/shredding up small tree branches and leaves.

Chipper? You're quite a gal. I don't know anyone who owns his own
one of those.


It's just an electric chipper, and it only does small branches.

--
Maggie

This was sarcasm, because you're a woman. Also, "Micky" is not "micky".

On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 at 4:08:52 AM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 09:36:00 -0700, Don Y
wrote:


Hmmmm... I will have to note that. The guy who gave me the jack stands also
gave me a (tiny) floor jack (not a bottle jack). As with most HF things,
I'm not keen on putting my body *under* something that it must support!

20 yeas ago I bought jack stands from Western Auto. 4 or 5 years
later, a friend was using them to work on his car and one of them
partially collapsed. He wasn't under it though. Just the Plymouth
ewquivalent of a LeBaron, nothing heavy.


when I took it back, I didnt' want to spring for the next higher
price, so I took another pair just like the ones I had. So far they
haven't broken but when I worked on my car the last time, I used 4
jack stands and two jacks at the same time. I was still scared.

I was replacing all 4 rotors this weekend and wanted to take the old rotors
off while waiting for the FedEx truck to deliver the new parts. I only have
2 jack stands, so I used those for the front and then built "cribbing"
with some PT 4x4's for the rear. Once I had all 4 wheels off the vehicle,
I realized that the cribbing was way safer than the jack stands, so I
probably should have used the cribbing under the front. Oh well. I used my
floor jack to take a little pressure off of the jack stands, just in case.

(I was actually hoping the parts would be there in time to finish
the fronts before jacking up the rear, but that didn't happen, so I kept
going with the take off.)

Anyway, I got the fronts done first and then put the wheels back on as a
3rd layer of protection.

The FedEx driver laughed when he pulled up to the house. As soon as he
saw the van up in the air with the wheels off, he said "Well, that
explains why these boxes are so heavy!"

On 10/21/2015 9:50 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
The FedEx driver laughed when he pulled up to the house. As soon as he
saw the van up in the air with the wheels off, he said "Well, that
explains why these boxes are so heavy!"


Nice sense of humor, the driver has.
Thanks, gave me a smile.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/19/2015 9:45 PM, Don Y wrote:
With the advent of Harbor Fright, it seems like expectations
in hand tool quality has gone into the toilet.

lip snip

Grandpa always sed, "A tool in the hand beats one in the bush."
Discuss..............

On 10/21/2015 2:08 AM, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 23:26:29 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 10/20/2015 2:30 AM, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 00:00:51 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 10/19/2015 11:58 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/19/2015 10:45 PM, Don Y wrote:
So, the question is, what tools to avoid, consider and criteria
used in making those decisions? And criteria to use in "broad brush"
dismissals of whole categories of tools?

I have some of their sockets and open wrenches that aren't too bad.
They're in an unsecured tool tube on the bike so if they're ripped off I
haven't lost much.

A floor jack spit the lift pad at me the first time I used it. After
replacing the rivet it's serviceable. I have an electric impact driver
that works. I don't use it very often but for the price, around $50
iirc, it was worth it.

A set of number drills works okay for soft material. C-clamps are hard
to screw up. A chain breaker did its job. A tubing flaring tool was
utter crap.

Fortunately I can walk to HF during lunch hour and see the stuff first
hand. It's too hit or miss otherwise.

I bought a small chipper shredder there and so far it works fine.


Shredder? Is this for paper?

No. It's for chopping/shredding up small tree branches and leaves.

Chipper? You're quite a gal. I don't know anyone who owns his own
one of those.


It's just an electric chipper, and it only does small branches.

I never heard of that before.


This is the one I bought from the
http://www.harborfreight.com/14-Amp-...der-61714.html



--
Maggie

On 2015-10-21, rbowman wrote:

Stephen King novels set in southern Maine aren't really novels, that's
just how it is.

You mean life in southerm Maine sucks as bad as Stephen King novels??

Thanks for the warning.

nb

On 2015-10-21, Micky wrote:

20 yeas ago I bought jack stands from Western Auto.

40 yrs ago, I bought a pair of Wizard brand multiple slip-joint pliers
at Grand Auto. Best pair o' plier I ever owned. Better even than
Channellock pliers and at half the price.

This is why most tools must be judged individually and not by brand.

nb

On Wed, 21 Oct 2015 10:56:56 -0500, Muggles wrote:


I bought a small chipper shredder there and so far it works fine.


Shredder? Is this for paper?

No. It's for chopping/shredding up small tree branches and leaves.

Chipper? You're quite a gal. I don't know anyone who owns his own
one of those.


It's just an electric chipper, and it only does small branches.

I never heard of that before.


This is the one I bought from the
http://www.harborfreight.com/14-Amp-...der-61714.html

Amazing!

On Wed, 21 Oct 2015 05:30:53 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 10/21/2015 1:08 AM, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 09:36:00 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

Hmmmm... I will have to note that. The guy who gave me the jack stands also
gave me a (tiny) floor jack (not a bottle jack). As with most HF things,
I'm not keen on putting my body *under* something that it must support!

20 yeas ago I bought jack stands from Western Auto. 4 or 5 years
later, a friend was using them to work on his car and one of them
partially collapsed. He wasn't under it though. Just the Plymouth
ewquivalent of a LeBaron, nothing heavy.

when I took it back, I didnt' want to spring for the next higher
price, so I took another pair just like the ones I had. So far they
haven't broken but when I worked on my car the last time, I used 4
jack stands and two jacks at the same time. I was still scared.

The problem with things like jack stands is they *seem* to fit the
criteria of "simple, no moving parts" -- sort of like autobody tools,
anvils, etc.: "Can't *possibly* be anything 'wrong' with something
as simple as this!"

But, few folks can look at a casting and determine if the metal is
brittle, porous, etc. I.e., will it actually support the expected
load or will it fail. How thick does that thing REALLY need to be to
meet it's stated characteristics?

Come to think of it, one of the replacements is bent too, but in a
way I can't understand. The jack stand is like a teepee with only
4 vertical posts, made of angle iron. Then near the bottom are flat
pieces of iron connecting each pair of adjacent posts (legs). One
of these horizontal pieces is bent, and I don't see how that could
have happened in use. It seems like it would have to be lying on
its side and have some weight put on it, but I don't think I ever did
that.

Oh yeah, I still have one other jackstand from a previous set. Looks
weaker, no fancy lever to release height, just a metal pin to hold the
center part up, and I used that too. That had thinner metal and it
would sink into the blacktop a little bit**, leaving dents where the
legs were, but I think the dents went away. The local middle-aged
busy-body wanted to know why I was using so much.

**Don't do this when it's above 90 iirc. That, or 85 was the temp at
which the weight of the car left jackstand imprints in the blacktop.

On 10/21/2015 12:14 PM, Micky wrote:
On Wed, 21 Oct 2015 10:56:56 -0500, Muggles wrote:


I bought a small chipper shredder there and so far it works fine.


Shredder? Is this for paper?

No. It's for chopping/shredding up small tree branches and leaves.

Chipper? You're quite a gal. I don't know anyone who owns his own
one of those.


It's just an electric chipper, and it only does small branches.

I never heard of that before.


This is the one I bought from the
http://www.harborfreight.com/14-Amp-...der-61714.html

Amazing!


I researched user reviews on that one and most reviews I read said it
was a good product. The first time I used it the chipper didn't skip a
beat chopping up everything I fed it. I had a pretty large pile of tree
branches and garden stuff, including trimmed grape vines, and it only
took about an hour to chop it all into a small trash bag size pile of
mulch which I put onto my flower bed.

--
Maggie

On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 at 1:24:35 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
On Wed, 21 Oct 2015 05:30:53 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 10/21/2015 1:08 AM, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 09:36:00 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

Hmmmm... I will have to note that. The guy who gave me the jack stands also
gave me a (tiny) floor jack (not a bottle jack). As with most HF things,
I'm not keen on putting my body *under* something that it must support!

20 yeas ago I bought jack stands from Western Auto. 4 or 5 years
later, a friend was using them to work on his car and one of them
partially collapsed. He wasn't under it though. Just the Plymouth
ewquivalent of a LeBaron, nothing heavy.

when I took it back, I didnt' want to spring for the next higher
price, so I took another pair just like the ones I had. So far they
haven't broken but when I worked on my car the last time, I used 4
jack stands and two jacks at the same time. I was still scared.

The problem with things like jack stands is they *seem* to fit the
criteria of "simple, no moving parts" -- sort of like autobody tools,
anvils, etc.: "Can't *possibly* be anything 'wrong' with something
as simple as this!"

But, few folks can look at a casting and determine if the metal is
brittle, porous, etc. I.e., will it actually support the expected
load or will it fail. How thick does that thing REALLY need to be to
meet it's stated characteristics?

Come to think of it, one of the replacements is bent too, but in a
way I can't understand. The jack stand is like a teepee with only
4 vertical posts, made of angle iron. Then near the bottom are flat
pieces of iron connecting each pair of adjacent posts (legs). One
of these horizontal pieces is bent, and I don't see how that could
have happened in use. It seems like it would have to be lying on
its side and have some weight put on it, but I don't think I ever did
that.

Oh yeah, I still have one other jackstand from a previous set. Looks
weaker, no fancy lever to release height, just a metal pin to hold the
center part up, and I used that too. That had thinner metal and it
would sink into the blacktop a little bit**, leaving dents where the
legs were, but I think the dents went away. The local middle-aged
busy-body wanted to know why I was using so much.

**Don't do this when it's above 90 iirc. That, or 85 was the temp at
which the weight of the car left jackstand imprints in the blacktop.

I have a few 12" x 12" x 1/4" steel plates left over from a project. I
put one under each jack stand before setting the vehicle down on them. This
prevents the driveway dents and provides a nice solid base. I'll bet I
could use the jack stands on grass/gravel/dirt with the steel plates
underneath them. I use the plates regardless of the weather. It can't hurt.

When I used the PT wood cribbing to hold up the rear end during my recent
brake job, I put a plate on top of the cribbing so that the jack point
flange on my Ody didn't sink into the wood.

On Wed, 21 Oct 2015 05:30:53 -0700, Don Y
wrote:


when I took it back, I didnt' want to spring for the next higher
price, so I took another pair just like the ones I had. So far they
haven't broken but when I worked on my car the last time, I used 4
jack stands and two jacks at the same time. I was still scared.

The problem with things like jack stands is they *seem* to fit the
criteria of "simple, no moving parts" -- sort of like autobody tools,
anvils, etc.: "Can't *possibly* be anything 'wrong' with something
as simple as this!"

But, few folks can look at a casting and determine if the metal is
brittle, porous, etc. I.e., will it actually support the expected
load or will it fail. How thick does that thing REALLY need to be to
meet it's stated characteristics?


I've never trusted jack stands. I have some pieces of railroad ties
about 3' long that I put under the tires, and if needed, a few blocks of
2x10 if I want it a little higher. That's in addition to leaving my
(quality) floor jack in place, after lowering it enough so the tires are
tight against the wooden blocks. The other two tires still on the ground
are well blocked too. I dont raise all 4 tires. That's just not safe.
I'd rather take it to a garage with a hoist and pay the bill if needed.

On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 at 2:09:10 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 21 Oct 2015 05:30:53 -0700, Don Y
wrote:


when I took it back, I didnt' want to spring for the next higher
price, so I took another pair just like the ones I had. So far they
haven't broken but when I worked on my car the last time, I used 4
jack stands and two jacks at the same time. I was still scared.

The problem with things like jack stands is they *seem* to fit the
criteria of "simple, no moving parts" -- sort of like autobody tools,
anvils, etc.: "Can't *possibly* be anything 'wrong' with something
as simple as this!"

But, few folks can look at a casting and determine if the metal is
brittle, porous, etc. I.e., will it actually support the expected
load or will it fail. How thick does that thing REALLY need to be to
meet it's stated characteristics?


I've never trusted jack stands. I have some pieces of railroad ties
about 3' long that I put under the tires, and if needed, a few blocks of
2x10 if I want it a little higher. That's in addition to leaving my
(quality) floor jack in place, after lowering it enough so the tires are
tight against the wooden blocks. The other two tires still on the ground
are well blocked too. I dont raise all 4 tires. That's just not safe.
I'd rather take it to a garage with a hoist and pay the bill if needed.

What do you do if the wheels have to come off?

On Wed, 21 Oct 2015 11:11:10 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

What do you do if the wheels have to come off?

I prefer a four-way lug wrench :-\

On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 3:10:59 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 3:48:03 PM UTC-4, Don Y wrote:
On 10/20/2015 11:42 AM, Cindy Hamilton wrote:
On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 3:30:49 AM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 00:00:51 -0500, Muggles wrote:

I bought a small chipper shredder there and so far it works fine.

Shredder? Is this for paper?

Chipper? You're quite a gal. I don't know anyone who owns his own
one of those.

We have one, too. Sadly, my husband's shoulder isn't up to the task
of feeding in the brush anymore. I'd like to sell it, but he's
paranoid (probably rightly so) about craigslist and similar venues.

Use a disposable (i.e., not one that you want to KEEP) email account
for selling on CL. Don't bring them to your house (may not be possible
depending on the item) but, instead, arrange to meet somewhere else,
"public"). Insist on cash. Have a friend with you during the transaction.


Craigslist uses a 2-way mail relay, which hides the actual email addresses
used during an email conversation.

However, anything that is in the body of the email, as well as the "real
name" field is passed to the recipient. For example, if you have any
personal information in your signature, such as a phone number or email
address, obviously that is going to be passed to the recipient.

I have a couple of email addresses that I use for website registrations,
others that I use for Craigslist, eBay, etc. I get spam on the
"registration" email addresses, but the Craigslist and eBay ones have
stayed clean for years. None of those email addresses have any personally
identifiable information, not even my real name.

I've tried doxing myself online and find little if anything when using my real name. I've been in stealth mode for so long that I had to jump through all kinds of hoops to convince a prepaid CC issuer that I actually existed. It had something to do with the overreaching intrusive ant-terrorism laws that have yet to catch any real terrorists. Yet non citizens are allowed to enter my country illegally and vote for Democrats without an ID or any proof as to who they are. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Terrorist Monster

On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 at 2:20:35 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 21 Oct 2015 11:11:10 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

What do you do if the wheels have to come off?

I prefer a four-way lug wrench :-\

So you can do all four at once?

On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 3:18:50 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 11:42:04 -0700 (PDT), Cindy Hamilton
wrote:

On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 3:30:49 AM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 00:00:51 -0500, Muggles wrote:

I bought a small chipper shredder there and so far it works fine.

Shredder? Is this for paper?

Chipper? You're quite a gal. I don't know anyone who owns his own
one of those.

We have one, too. Sadly, my husband's shoulder isn't up to the task
of feeding in the brush anymore. I'd like to sell it, but he's
paranoid (probably rightly so) about craigslist and similar venues.

Cindy Hamilton

Meet in public. Preferably at a local police station with
video/cameras. I never use any e-mail, give my number so when a
person calls I set my conditions -- when and where and pack a gun

Never sell diamonds or such on CL. You can set yourself up for a home
invasion. Buying a car? Hide the cash and meet at a police station.

An story I heard the other day mentions "safe zones" dealing with CL
transactions. Signs are posted at police stations.

Sample:

_Craigslist safe zone created by police _

http://www.examiner.com/article/craigslist-safe-zone-created-by-police

If you meet at a police station, the cops will confiscate your money claiming that you're going to use it to buy drugs. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Cop Monster

On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 5:45:06 PM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 09:09:48 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 10/19/2015 11:45 PM, Don Y wrote:
...

This got me to thinking what other tools I *might* (not *will*!)
consider buying from HF. I.e., the "possible buy" list is considerably
shorter than the "wouldn't buy" list!
...

The polished Pittsburgh wrench sets are good buy for any but the hardest
of uses...I find them easily hard enough jaws don't spread without
excessive force like using a cheater on one and they have a nice
feel...and, you've not lost a fortune if they're carried to field on
farm, say, and manage to lose one or two in the sand...

A professional mechanic in a clean shop may well elect SnapOn or MAC,
surely...

My son is a professional truck mechanic - suspensions.
The hardest use. Fire, garbage, crane trucks. All of them.
He uses a lot of HF Pittsburgh wrenches on a daily basis.
And HF prybars. And HF impact sockets. They replace the ones he
breaks.
He buys some Mac and Snapon from the truck occasionally, when he
needs a certain tool - impact wrenches eg. They are rebranded
Ingersoll Rand.
I only have a multi-tool from HF. It works well, but doesn't have
much working history. My hand and power tools are mostly Craftsman.
I have a Milwaukee Sawzall. Ridgid pipe wrenches.
I've bought maybe 3 sets of Craftsman wrenches in my life - when they
were on sale and came with a good tool box. If the HF wasn't 20 miles
I'd shop there for some tools. Just have to select the right ones.

Some of the items I've purchased at Harbor Freight were actually made in The U.S.A. It's odd since most of our manufacturing has been driven out of the country. There is a site that is a directory and search engine for American made products and several sites that sell products manufactured in The States. It might be interesting if someone opened a brick and mortar store that sold only items made in USA. I wonder how it would do? ^_^

http://americansworking.com/

http://www.madeinusa.org/

http://madeintheusa.com/

http://www.stillmadeinusa.com/

http://madeinusaforever.com/

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page...ade%20In%20USA

[8~{} Uncle American Monster

On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 at 12:27:53 AM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 10/20/2015 1:10 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 3:48:03 PM UTC-4, Don Y wrote:
On 10/20/2015 11:42 AM, Cindy Hamilton wrote:
On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 3:30:49 AM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 00:00:51 -0500, Muggles wrote:

I bought a small chipper shredder there and so far it works fine.

Shredder? Is this for paper?

Chipper? You're quite a gal. I don't know anyone who owns his own
one of those.

We have one, too. Sadly, my husband's shoulder isn't up to the task
of feeding in the brush anymore. I'd like to sell it, but he's
paranoid (probably rightly so) about craigslist and similar venues.

Use a disposable (i.e., not one that you want to KEEP) email account
for selling on CL. Don't bring them to your house (may not be possible
depending on the item) but, instead, arrange to meet somewhere else,
"public"). Insist on cash. Have a friend with you during the transaction.

Craigslist uses a 2-way mail relay, which hides the actual email addresses
used during an email conversation.

*If* you opt to use their relay!

Using their relay puts another dependency in your email exchanges;
i.e., both parties rely on CL's servers being up and accessible
(they've been hacked in the past).

But, it also leaves your "means of communication" subject to
article expiration *and* cancelation! So, if the item you are opting
to sell, ISO, etc. doesn't see any action in the "expiration period"
(varies by type of post), CL takes itself out of the "loop".

So, if someone saved (printed, etc.) your CL post but didn't immediately
act on it at that time, there is a risk that they may not be able to
respond when they want to respond.

And, if folks "prohibit" your post (because you are competing with
their post *or* because they want to take advantage of your post
and prevent others from seeing it), then the linkage disappears.

Finally, the sites that "harvest" CL posts (sort of mirroring)
don't always successfully preserve the CL links (esp see above).

Putting a (disposable) email address *in* the post (even if trivially
disguised) allows anyone who sees the body of your post to contact
you UNTIL *YOU* CANCEL THE (disposable) EMAIL ACCOUNT!

[This is a huge advantage over telephone contacts -- where you can't
easily change your contact number!]

However, anything that is in the body of the email, as well as the "real
name" field is passed to the recipient. For example, if you have any
personal information in your signature, such as a phone number or email
address, obviously that is going to be passed to the recipient.

Actually, I think if you use the relay, CL checks the message
body for email addresses and won't accept the message with that
content. (I'd have to double-check that)

I have a couple of email addresses that I use for website registrations,
others that I use for Craigslist, eBay, etc. I get spam on the
"registration" email addresses, but the Craigslist and eBay ones have
stayed clean for years. None of those email addresses have any personally
identifiable information, not even my real name.

I routinely create and discard email addresses. Where possible, I'll
try *truly* "disposable address services" but those are becoming
too well known and many sites will scan for their attempted use,
and blocking them.

I miss the old Craigslist where nekid women advertised their services. Dammit, the old fuddy-duddies always interfere and ruin anything that's fun or interesting. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Disappointed Monster

On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 at 8:50:27 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, October 21, 2015 at 4:08:52 AM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
On Tue, 20 Oct 2015 09:36:00 -0700, Don Y
wrote:


Hmmmm... I will have to note that. The guy who gave me the jack stands also
gave me a (tiny) floor jack (not a bottle jack). As with most HF things,
I'm not keen on putting my body *under* something that it must support!

20 yeas ago I bought jack stands from Western Auto. 4 or 5 years
later, a friend was using them to work on his car and one of them
partially collapsed. He wasn't under it though. Just the Plymouth
ewquivalent of a LeBaron, nothing heavy.


when I took it back, I didnt' want to spring for the next higher
price, so I took another pair just like the ones I had. So far they
haven't broken but when I worked on my car the last time, I used 4
jack stands and two jacks at the same time. I was still scared.

I was replacing all 4 rotors this weekend and wanted to take the old rotors
off while waiting for the FedEx truck to deliver the new parts. I only have
2 jack stands, so I used those for the front and then built "cribbing"
with some PT 4x4's for the rear. Once I had all 4 wheels off the vehicle,
I realized that the cribbing was way safer than the jack stands, so I
probably should have used the cribbing under the front. Oh well. I used my
floor jack to take a little pressure off of the jack stands, just in case..

(I was actually hoping the parts would be there in time to finish
the fronts before jacking up the rear, but that didn't happen, so I kept
going with the take off.)

Anyway, I got the fronts done first and then put the wheels back on as a
3rd layer of protection.

The FedEx driver laughed when he pulled up to the house. As soon as he
saw the van up in the air with the wheels off, he said "Well, that
explains why these boxes are so heavy!"

When I was kid on the farm, we'd use a repurposed swing set A-frame and a ratcheting chain hoist to pick up one end of the Dart or Valiant, build pillars out of concrete blocks under four corners of the vehicle and it was high enough in the air so that we could walk under the car to work on it. I miss the farm because the driveway was 1/4 mile long and you could do anything you wanted without a neighbor commenting on it unless you did what my dad once did. One of his students at the college was in The National Guard and the young soldier gave my dad a shell burst simulator which amounted to a giant dangerous firecracker with a kill radius of 15 yards. Dad pulled the pin and threw the evil thing as far as he could as the fuse made the whistling sound of an incoming round or bomb. The explosion was deafening and the shock wave felt like a punch in the chest. The sound of the blast echoed up and down the valley. We started getting calls from neighbors who were calling everyone to find out what happened. I would have told them that a NASA spaceship had crash landed on our farm but my mom wouldn't me. ^__^

[8~{} Uncle Blast Monster

On Monday, October 19, 2015 at 11:45:03 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

I have older Craftsman, S-K, and one very old Snap-On ratchet for hand-tools. These were either inherited, gifts, or garage sale finds. Most of my power tools were close-out sale, Craftsman (they would regularly sell an older-style for $29.99). My shop grinder, orbit-sander, and circ-saw were all that price...all-metal, and can run all day and just get warm! 45-50 yrs old.

I have 2 tie-rod tools from HF...I've never had a chance to use them.

On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 10:03:55 AM UTC-4, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, October 19, 2015 at 11:45:03 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

I have older Craftsman, S-K, and one very old Snap-On ratchet for hand-tools. These were either inherited, gifts, or garage sale finds. Most of my power tools were close-out sale, Craftsman (they would regularly sell an older-style for $29.99). My shop grinder, orbit-sander, and circ-saw were all that price...all-metal, and can run all day and just get warm! 45-50 yrs old.

I have 2 tie-rod tools from HF...I've never had a chance to use them.

I used to buy the Craftsman close-outs and other sale items in the $29.99
class. Then I had the opportunity to try some *real* power tools and
realized that price really, really matters.

I owned a $29.99 Craftsman circular saw when I had the opportunity to spend
a day with a Porter Cable#743K 7 ¼" Blade-Left Circular Saw. Sure, it was
at least $100 more than the Craftsman, but Holy Crap! what a difference.

Left blade for easy sight lines, blade brake for safety, directional dust port, case, power, low-noise, etc. I never looked back and eventually
upgraded all of my power tools. The Craftsman stuff may still *work*, but
not at the quality level of the more expensive tools.

On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 7:03:55 AM UTC-7, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, October 19, 2015 at 11:45:03 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

I have older Craftsman, S-K, and one very old Snap-On ratchet for hand-tools. These were either inherited, gifts, or garage sale finds. Most of my power tools were close-out sale, Craftsman (they would regularly sell an older-style for $29.99). My shop grinder, orbit-sander, and circ-saw were all that price...all-metal, and can run all day and just get warm! 45-50 yrs old.

I have 2 tie-rod tools from HF...I've never had a chance to use them.

Snap-on 12 drawer roll chest with $10+K worth of tools, 90% of 'em Snap-on

On 10/22/2015 7:47 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 10:03:55 AM UTC-4, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, October 19, 2015 at 11:45:03 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

I have older Craftsman, S-K, and one very old Snap-On ratchet for hand-tools. These were either inherited, gifts, or garage sale finds. Most of my power tools were close-out sale, Craftsman (they would regularly sell an older-style for $29.99). My shop grinder, orbit-sander, and circ-saw were all that price...all-metal, and can run all day and just get warm! 45-50 yrs old.

I have 2 tie-rod tools from HF...I've never had a chance to use them.

I used to buy the Craftsman close-outs and other sale items in the $29.99
class. Then I had the opportunity to try some *real* power tools and
realized that price really, really matters.

I owned a $29.99 Craftsman circular saw when I had the opportunity to spend
a day with a Porter Cable#743K 7 ¼" Blade-Left Circular Saw. Sure, it was
at least $100 more than the Craftsman, but Holy Crap! what a difference.

Left blade for easy sight lines, blade brake for safety, directional dust port, case, power, low-noise, etc. I never looked back and eventually
upgraded all of my power tools. The Craftsman stuff may still *work*, but
not at the quality level of the more expensive tools.

I've not found a single circular saw to be "universally appropriate".
"Blade left" puts the sight line in a convenient location for a right
handed operator -- but, puts the weight of the saw over the "scrap piece"
with normal cutting patterns; i.e., you have to learn to put the scrap
end to the *left* when cutting with these saws.

[The same sort of argument applies for "blade right" sidewinders.]

Both tend to put the operator's hand *above* the blade.

I've found a worm drive often is easier at "getting the job done"
as I can usually rely on its extra weight (they are probably
twice as heavy as a sidewinder) and you can *push* from behind
instead of leaning over the saw. It's also the only sort of saw
with which I would even CONSIDER attempting a plunge cut!

As to your other comments tools, in general, I have found a
noticeable difference in life expectancy from tools that were
"inexpensive" (and CHEAP!) vs. "better investments".

One trivial way of deciding how much effort the manufacturer
puts into his product is to look at a tool and see just how
symmetric a tool that *should* be symmetric (by design)
actually is, in practice.

E.g., common (flat) screwdrivers are often cold-formed (swaged).
As such, their tips should be *perfectly* symmetrical -- unless
the manufacturer didn't care where the raw stock was placed in the
die!

So, a tip should look like
------+
/ |
-----/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

and not

-----+
/ |
------/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

You'd see a similar pattern in a "cabinet tip" screwdriver;
the flats meeting the cylindrical shaft at the same point,
not offset by some amount.

And, of course, there are lots of not-visible characteristics that
you will only discover from good/bad experiences: how hard is
the steel? How robust is the finish? Why does this scredriver
have a round shaft while this other is *square*? etc.

On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 4:36:36 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

So, a tip should look like
------+
/ |
-----/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

and not

-----+
/ |
------/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

I have no idea what you're attempting to convey here??? I, and I think most, use Philips-head so you can power-drive them. Try using less words, and get to the point. Please!

On 10/22/2015 3:03 PM, bob_villa wrote:
On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 4:36:36 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

So, a tip should look like
------+
/ |
-----/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

and not

-----+
/ |
------/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

I have no idea what you're attempting to convey here??? I, and I think most, use Philips-head so you can power-drive them. Try using less words, and get to the point. Please!

If you can't read WORDS, then look at the PICTURES. If you can't see the
difference, then, by all means, buy your tools (and health care!) at
HF!

On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 6:34:39 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
On 10/22/2015 3:03 PM, bob_villa wrote:
On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 4:36:36 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

So, a tip should look like
------+
/ |
-----/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

and not

-----+
/ |
------/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

I have no idea what you're attempting to convey here??? I, and I think most, use Philips-head so you can power-drive them. Try using less words, and get to the point. Please!

If you can't read WORDS, then look at the PICTURES. If you can't see the
difference, then, by all means, buy your tools (and health care!) at
HF!

There *IS* a difference, but your meaning is *NOT* apparent. (I commend you for getting to the point though!)

On 10/22/2015 4:46 PM, bob_villa wrote:
I have no idea what you're attempting to convey here??? I, and I think most, use Philips-head so you can power-drive them. Try using less words, and get to the point. Please!

If you can't read WORDS, then look at the PICTURES. If you can't see the
difference, then, by all means, buy your tools (and health care!) at
HF!

There *IS* a difference, but your meaning is *NOT* apparent. (I commend you for getting to the point though!)

Get a (typical) slotted screwdriver -- AS INDICATED IN THE TEXT OF MY POST.

Hold it up to the screen with the handle off to the left. Considering
the limitations of ASCII art, can you see a resemblance between the
shape of the screwdriver tip and the image on the screen:

------+
/ |
-----/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

Now, dig out a dictionary and look up the word "symmetry" -- also indicated
in my TEXT. Study the above illustration and see if you can identify the
SYMMETRY present in THAT image.

Now, consult the OTHER image in my post:

-----+
/ |
------/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

With the SYMMETRY concept fresh in your mind, see if you can identify how
this second image differs from the first.

Then, imagine how that would relate to the physical screwdriver in your
hand!

Next, imagine how a machine would *intend* to produce a screwdriver
having the original image's shape and why it might, instead, produce
the shape of the second image.

Finally, imagine why a company would opt for #2 instead of #1 -- or,
conversely, why a BETTER company would strive for #1 and consider #2
to be *scrap*.

Another way of thinking about it: there are lots of ways to put paint
on a house. How would you decide on the quality of painter A's work
vs. that of painter B?

[Of course, this has been yet another lengthy explanation so I suspect
you're still stuck on image #1...]

On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 8:34:52 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

Get a (typical) slotted screwdriver -- AS INDICATED IN THE TEXT OF MY POST.

Hold it up to the screen with the handle off to the left. Considering
the limitations of ASCII art, can you see a resemblance between the
shape of the screwdriver tip and the image on the screen:

------+
/ |
-----/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

Now, dig out a dictionary and look up the word "symmetry" -- also indicated
in my TEXT. Study the above illustration and see if you can identify the
SYMMETRY present in THAT image.

Now, consult the OTHER image in my post:

-----+
/ |
------/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

With the SYMMETRY concept fresh in your mind, see if you can identify how
this second image differs from the first.

Then, imagine how that would relate to the physical screwdriver in your
hand!

Next, imagine how a machine would *intend* to produce a screwdriver
having the original image's shape and why it might, instead, produce
the shape of the second image.

Finally, imagine why a company would opt for #2 instead of #1 -- or,
conversely, why a BETTER company would strive for #1 and consider #2
to be *scrap*.

The only thing I notice is a straight edge perpendicular to the shaft? Most flat-blades need to be "tuned" anyway on fine grinder...so it makes little difference.

________
______/ |
|
______ | Would it be more like this?
\________|

On 10/22/2015 7:22 PM, bob_villa wrote:
On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 8:34:52 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

Get a (typical) slotted screwdriver -- AS INDICATED IN THE TEXT OF MY POST.

Hold it up to the screen with the handle off to the left. Considering
the limitations of ASCII art, can you see a resemblance between the
shape of the screwdriver tip and the image on the screen:

------+
/ |
-----/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

Now, dig out a dictionary and look up the word "symmetry" -- also indicated
in my TEXT. Study the above illustration and see if you can identify the
SYMMETRY present in THAT image.

Now, consult the OTHER image in my post:

-----+
/ |
------/ |
-----\ |
\ |
------+

With the SYMMETRY concept fresh in your mind, see if you can identify how
this second image differs from the first.

Then, imagine how that would relate to the physical screwdriver in your
hand!

Next, imagine how a machine would *intend* to produce a screwdriver
having the original image's shape and why it might, instead, produce
the shape of the second image.

Finally, imagine why a company would opt for #2 instead of #1 -- or,
conversely, why a BETTER company would strive for #1 and consider #2
to be *scrap*.

The only thing I notice is a straight edge perpendicular to the shaft? Most flat-blades need to be "tuned" anyway on fine grinder...so it makes little difference.

________
______/ |
|
______ | Would it be more like this?
\________|


A *sloppy* product looks like:

_________
_____/ |
|
______ |
\________|