On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

On 8/31/2015 1:55 PM, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 13:30:22 -0500, Muggles wrote:

http://picpaste.com/oLddMY9i.jpg

Have you checked the parts price at NAPA auto parts store? (not sure
what that piece is called but sure you can find it cheaper) And have
a local mechanic install it. A dealership wants you to leave your
purse


Haven't checked that particular store, yet, but I will, thanks.


The online sto http://www.napaonline.com/

My regular mechanic wouldn't do the job. Not sure why. Maybe it needs
some specific tool he doesn't have, or something along those lines.

...or he isn't hungry enough


I'm taking my van back to him tomorrow so he can put a new belt on it.
The one on it now is cracked. At least one thing will get fixed.

--
Maggie

On 8/31/2015 9:40 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:16:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/29/2015 1:18 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 29 Aug 2015 11:47:37 -0500, Muggles wrote:

My van has an oil leak, and I'm currently in the process of looking for
an affordable part. The dealership was going to charge $590 for the
parts to fix the oil filter adapter, and about $100 in labor. Right now
I just add more oil to it occasionally.

What do you mean by "oil filter adapter"? Is this some after market
oil cooler, similar or looks like a radiator coil?

Here's a photo of the engine part that's highlighted in yellow. The
Ford dealership gave that to me.

There are after market add-on coolers for oil and transmission fluids.
Likely used in vehicles doing some heavier hauling, pulling boats or
trailers in mountainous regions.

The Ford winstars and many other ford vehicles of that age have the
"sandwich" oil to water coolers. In light duty use the cooler adapter
can be removed, the coolant hose bypassed, and the oil leak
eliminated.


hmmm I wish I knew how to do that myself, but I'll ask my mechanic
about it.

--
Maggie

On 8/31/2015 9:41 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:18:36 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/29/2015 2:31 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 1:02:19 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 08/29/2015 10:47 AM, Muggles wrote:
I've heard that older vehicles are held together by the old oil and if
you change it the motor thinks the world is coming to an end and won't
start any more.

how old is old? Back before detergent oil you definitely didn't want to
stir the **** up. Back when you adjusted valve clearance, I've pulled
valve covers to find what looked like a thick coating of grease.
suddenly introducing them to detergent oil wasn't a good idea. I think
that's where the paranoia about going from dino to synthetic came from.

Years ago, I had a K car with the 2.2Ltr 4cyl which had some miles on it and some gunk had built up in the engine. I drained the oil and with the valve cover off, I used a parts cleaning brush and diesel fuel to clean the valve train. I then poured a gallon of diesel into the crankcase by pouring it over the valve train washing the rest of the gunk down through the drain holes in the head. After getting the diesel in the crankcase, I took a 1/4" plastic air line and threaded it through the drain holes in the head until it got into the oil pan. The air line was then connected to an air compressor and the air turned on to cause the diesel to splash around in the crankcase to dissolve the gunk. I drained the crankcase and repeated the cleaning. After cleaning and reinstalling the valve cover, I installed a new oil filter then substituted a quart of Rislone for one quart of the new high detergent oil in the crankcase. I ran the car for several hundred miles and the oil was fairly cl
ea
r when I checked it. The little engine stayed clean and the oil wasn't that dirty when changed at 5,000 miles. I never had a problem with the engine which was still running quietly when I sold the car. ^_^

http://rislone.com/product/engine-treatment/

[8~{} Uncle Oil Monster


I think if my old van had clean oil in it it wouldn't want to start!
If the oil was kept clean it would run a lot longer. (and may not
have corroded the oil cooler)


Well, she's 17 yrs old, so a few worn out parts occasionally aren't a
big surprise, I guess.

--
Maggie

On 8/31/2015 9:48 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 13:30:22 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 1:17 PM, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:27:12 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 12:16 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 8/29/2015 1:18 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 29 Aug 2015 11:47:37 -0500, Muggles wrote:

My van has an oil leak, and I'm currently in the process of looking for
an affordable part. The dealership was going to charge $590 for the
parts to fix the oil filter adapter, and about $100 in labor. Right now
I just add more oil to it occasionally.

What do you mean by "oil filter adapter"? Is this some after market
oil cooler, similar or looks like a radiator coil?

Here's a photo of the engine part that's highlighted in yellow. The
Ford dealership gave that to me.

Whoops! Forgot to paste the link:

http://picpaste.com/oLddMY9i.jpg

Have you checked the parts price at NAPA auto parts store? (not sure
what that piece is called but sure you can find it cheaper) And have
a local mechanic install it. A dealership wants you to leave your
purse


Haven't checked that particular store, yet, but I will, thanks.

My regular mechanic wouldn't do the job. Not sure why. Maybe it needs
some specific tool he doesn't have, or something along those lines.
No special tools required, and about a 40 minute job to replace after
it is on the hoist.


OK ... maybe I can see if my mechanic will fix it tomorrow when he is
putting a new belt on it.

--
Maggie

On 8/31/2015 9:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.

--
Maggie

On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 9:45:17 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 10:25:14 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Sunday, August 30, 2015 at 9:51:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 30 Aug 2015 17:49:25 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 9:19:36 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 08/29/2015 03:22 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Heck some of the new engines have a separate coil plugged directly on to each spark plug. No more spark plug wires or distributor. ^_^

Yep. I'm one of those people that open the hood when I'm looking at a
new car to make sure I can work on the thing. The Yaris has a polymer
cover over the top of the engine and I assumed the plug wires were
hiding under it, not wanting to start taking the car apart with the
salesman standing there. closer inspection after the purchase showed
there was nothing under there but 4 little plugs with their individual,
computer controlled, coils. At least I could see all 4 lined up in a
row. I have bad memories of cars where only 6 or 7 of the 8 were accessible.

My newest vehicle is a 20 year old Jeep and It's easy to service. The parts are available everywhere and I like it because even though it's two wheel drive, I can go places and climb over things a little Honda fears. Besides, I can get in and out of the SUV without cracking my skull open. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Jeep Monster


Sounds a bit like my little old Ranger --


That ranger pickup of yours is the right height and not too tall that you must climb up into it like a lot of full sized trucks and vans. I have a full sized van that I had a hard time getting in and out of when I could walk. When my pal Stinky, who I let use my Jeep, comes by to pick me up for a field trip, it's not that hard for me to get from a wheelchair into the passenger seat.

For a while, I drove one of those little Ford vans based on the Ranger chassis. It was perfect for running service calls at malls because even with the ladder rack, I could get into parking decks. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster
I had two of those "AeroScares" and loved them too. I sold the first
one at somewhere around 160,000kms - to a friend who took it well over
240,000km. I replaced that 1989 with a 1990 that I took to over
240,000 km before selling it. If the bodies stood up better they would
both have gone a lot farther.

As much as I like the front wheel drive passenger vans, I don't consider them suitable for a service vehicle because they're not built on a rear drive truck chassis. My full sized Dodge V8 powered rear drive van is a unit body but the drivetrain is the same as what's found in the pickup trucks of that era. I haven't driven one of the latest small commercial vans which are front wheel drive but I believe the manufacturers have put heavy duty running gear under the things to make them usable for businesses. I'd like to get a look under the hood of one of them and underneath to see what the drivetrain and suspension looks like. Mercedes is selling a small rear drive van called the "Metris" and other manufacturers have small city vans that are front wheel drive and some have an option for 4 wheel drive. I don't know how they'll hold up but they look good and the specs seem to show they'll get the job done. Holy crap they have a lot of complicated tech that can break. ^_^

http://www.caranddriver.com/ford/transit-connect

[8~{} Uncle Mini Monster

On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 22:57:37 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:41 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:18:36 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/29/2015 2:31 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 1:02:19 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 08/29/2015 10:47 AM, Muggles wrote:
I've heard that older vehicles are held together by the old oil and if
you change it the motor thinks the world is coming to an end and won't
start any more.

how old is old? Back before detergent oil you definitely didn't want to
stir the **** up. Back when you adjusted valve clearance, I've pulled
valve covers to find what looked like a thick coating of grease.
suddenly introducing them to detergent oil wasn't a good idea. I think
that's where the paranoia about going from dino to synthetic came from.

Years ago, I had a K car with the 2.2Ltr 4cyl which had some miles on it and some gunk had built up in the engine. I drained the oil and with the valve cover off, I used a parts cleaning brush and diesel fuel to clean the valve train. I then poured a gallon of diesel into the crankcase by pouring it over the valve train washing the rest of the gunk down through the drain holes in the head. After getting the diesel in the crankcase, I took a 1/4" plastic air line and threaded it through the drain holes in the head until it got into the oil pan. The air line was then connected to an air compressor and the air turned on to cause the diesel to splash around in the crankcase to dissolve the gunk. I drained the crankcase and repeated the cleaning. After cleaning and reinstalling the valve cover, I installed a new oil filter then substituted a quart of Rislone for one quart of the new high detergent oil in the crankcase. I ran the car for several hundred miles and the oil was fairly cl
ea
r when I checked it. The little engine stayed clean and the oil wasn't that dirty when changed at 5,000 miles. I never had a problem with the engine which was still running quietly when I sold the car. ^_^

http://rislone.com/product/engine-treatment/

[8~{} Uncle Oil Monster


I think if my old van had clean oil in it it wouldn't want to start!
If the oil was kept clean it would run a lot longer. (and may not
have corroded the oil cooler)


Well, she's 17 yrs old, so a few worn out parts occasionally aren't a
big surprise, I guess.
Mine is 20 and has 337000km on it - almost showroom condition and
runs and drives like new. Repairs to date virtually nill.

On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 23:00:42 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30

On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 22:48:09 -0400, wrote:

http://picpaste.com/oLddMY9i.jpg

Have you checked the parts price at NAPA auto parts store? (not sure
what that piece is called but sure you can find it cheaper) And have
a local mechanic install it. A dealership wants you to leave your
purse


Haven't checked that particular store, yet, but I will, thanks.

My regular mechanic wouldn't do the job. Not sure why. Maybe it needs
some specific tool he doesn't have, or something along those lines.

No special tools required, and about a 40 minute job to replace after
it is on the hoist.

What is that part called and how is it fastened to the block? *.jpg
does not show any bolts...

On 9/1/2015 11:51 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 22:57:37 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:41 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:18:36 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/29/2015 2:31 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 1:02:19 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 08/29/2015 10:47 AM, Muggles wrote:
I've heard that older vehicles are held together by the old oil and if
you change it the motor thinks the world is coming to an end and won't
start any more.

how old is old? Back before detergent oil you definitely didn't want to
stir the **** up. Back when you adjusted valve clearance, I've pulled
valve covers to find what looked like a thick coating of grease.
suddenly introducing them to detergent oil wasn't a good idea. I think
that's where the paranoia about going from dino to synthetic came from.

Years ago, I had a K car with the 2.2Ltr 4cyl which had some miles on it and some gunk had built up in the engine. I drained the oil and with the valve cover off, I used a parts cleaning brush and diesel fuel to clean the valve train. I then poured a gallon of diesel into the crankcase by pouring it over the valve train washing the rest of the gunk down through the drain holes in the head. After getting the diesel in the crankcase, I took a 1/4" plastic air line and threaded it through the drain holes in the head until it got into the oil pan. The air line was then connected to an air compressor and the air turned on to cause the diesel to splash around in the crankcase to dissolve the gunk. I drained the crankcase and repeated the cleaning. After cleaning and reinstalling the valve cover, I installed a new oil filter then substituted a quart of Rislone for one quart of the new high detergent oil in the crankcase. I ran the car for several hundred miles and the oil was fairly
cl
ea
r when I checked it. The little engine stayed clean and the oil wasn't that dirty when changed at 5,000 miles. I never had a problem with the engine which was still running quietly when I sold the car. ^_^

http://rislone.com/product/engine-treatment/

[8~{} Uncle Oil Monster


I think if my old van had clean oil in it it wouldn't want to start!
If the oil was kept clean it would run a lot longer. (and may not
have corroded the oil cooler)


Well, she's 17 yrs old, so a few worn out parts occasionally aren't a
big surprise, I guess.
Mine is 20 and has 337000km on it - almost showroom condition and
runs and drives like new. Repairs to date virtually nill.


What kind of car is it?

--
Maggie

On 9/1/2015 11:52 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 23:00:42 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.

--
Maggie

On Tue, 01 Sep 2015 10:45:46 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 22:48:09 -0400, wrote:

http://picpaste.com/oLddMY9i.jpg

Have you checked the parts price at NAPA auto parts store? (not sure
what that piece is called but sure you can find it cheaper) And have
a local mechanic install it. A dealership wants you to leave your
purse


Haven't checked that particular store, yet, but I will, thanks.

My regular mechanic wouldn't do the job. Not sure why. Maybe it needs
some specific tool he doesn't have, or something along those lines.

No special tools required, and about a 40 minute job to replace after
it is on the hoist.

What is that part called and how is it fastened to the block? *.jpg
does not show any bolts...

Officially, it is a Liquid-to-liquid layered-core oil coolers (LCOCs)
It's commonly called an "oil cooler donut" and is fastened to the
block by an adapter that threads on in place of the filter, and that
the filter then threads onto. VERY large chance the oil leak is just
the gasket between the block and the sandwich (just a big "O" ring
like on an oil filter)
Most common supplier is Modine.(who invented the concept)

See
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...lter-leak.html
for details.

Its a "dumb as rocks" type of repair - sure far from "rocket science"
What the dummy who put the website together got wrong is what he calls
the "oil line" is in fact the other coolant line. Water in one end and
out the other. All the oil is supposed to stay inside the cooler, and
will unless the gasket goes bad or the donut gets perforated (quite
uncommon, by the way - compared to bad "O" rings.

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:52:22 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:51 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 22:57:37 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:41 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:18:36 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/29/2015 2:31 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 1:02:19 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 08/29/2015 10:47 AM, Muggles wrote:
I've heard that older vehicles are held together by the old oil and if
you change it the motor thinks the world is coming to an end and won't
start any more.

how old is old? Back before detergent oil you definitely didn't want to
stir the **** up. Back when you adjusted valve clearance, I've pulled
valve covers to find what looked like a thick coating of grease.
suddenly introducing them to detergent oil wasn't a good idea. I think
that's where the paranoia about going from dino to synthetic came from.

Years ago, I had a K car with the 2.2Ltr 4cyl which had some miles on it and some gunk had built up in the engine. I drained the oil and with the valve cover off, I used a parts cleaning brush and diesel fuel to clean the valve train. I then poured a gallon of diesel into the crankcase by pouring it over the valve train washing the rest of the gunk down through the drain holes in the head. After getting the diesel in the crankcase, I took a 1/4" plastic air line and threaded it through the drain holes in the head until it got into the oil pan. The air line was then connected to an air compressor and the air turned on to cause the diesel to splash around in the crankcase to dissolve the gunk. I drained the crankcase and repeated the cleaning. After cleaning and reinstalling the valve cover, I installed a new oil filter then substituted a quart of Rislone for one quart of the new high detergent oil in the crankcase. I ran the car for several hundred miles and the oil was fairly
cl
ea
r when I checked it. The little engine stayed clean and the oil wasn't that dirty when changed at 5,000 miles. I never had a problem with the engine which was still running quietly when I sold the car. ^_^

http://rislone.com/product/engine-treatment/

[8~{} Uncle Oil Monster


I think if my old van had clean oil in it it wouldn't want to start!
If the oil was kept clean it would run a lot longer. (and may not
have corroded the oil cooler)


Well, she's 17 yrs old, so a few worn out parts occasionally aren't a
big surprise, I guess.
Mine is 20 and has 337000km on it - almost showroom condition and
runs and drives like new. Repairs to date virtually nill.


What kind of car is it?
It is an old Ford Ranger standard cab long-box pickup with a matching
fiberglass cap. 4 liter V6, 5 speed, 3.55 posi rear end, originally
came with 14" tires and 10.25" front rotors - converted to 16 inch
wheels and 11 inch rotors. Otherwise stock and original except for
clutch, "U" joints and windshield (and a couple light bulbs). Still
original rear brakes, exhaust, - everything. It came without A/C and I
installed A/C on it a couple years ago. Really glad to have it again
today, with 29C and 36 or 38 Humidex.

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:52 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 23:00:42 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.
5w20 or 5w30 was specified by the factory. Depending where you live
10W40 might be a good alternative in the summer if it has high mileage
or is staring to use a wee bit of oil (not lose it) - and if in Texas
or Arkansas or other hot place, even 20W50 for the summer.

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.


5W30 oil changes viscosity. Best I can tell it is thinner (5) in
winter and 30 in summer. I've been known to use 40W

On Tue, 01 Sep 2015 14:36:51 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.


5W30 oil changes viscosity. Best I can tell it is thinner (5) in
winter and 30 in summer. I've been known to use 40W
No, actually it changes viscosity LESS than a straight grade oil.
To put it simply - which means not 100% accurate - cold 5w30 oil acts
like cold 5 weight oil, and hot 5w30 oil behaves like hot 30 weight
oil. Oil behaves like corn syrup or honey. The colder it gets the
thicker it gets.. The warmer it gets the thinner it gets.

The way it is done is using a thin base oil (like SAE5) and adding a
viscosity index improver - which is a long chain polymer that curls
and uncurls with temperature, thickening the oil as it warms up.

The hot 5w30 is still thinner than cold 5 weight oil - just not as
much thinner

On 9/1/2015 3:38 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 01 Sep 2015 10:45:46 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 22:48:09 -0400, wrote:

http://picpaste.com/oLddMY9i.jpg

Have you checked the parts price at NAPA auto parts store? (not sure
what that piece is called but sure you can find it cheaper) And have
a local mechanic install it. A dealership wants you to leave your
purse


Haven't checked that particular store, yet, but I will, thanks.

My regular mechanic wouldn't do the job. Not sure why. Maybe it needs
some specific tool he doesn't have, or something along those lines.

No special tools required, and about a 40 minute job to replace after
it is on the hoist.

What is that part called and how is it fastened to the block? *.jpg
does not show any bolts...

Officially, it is a Liquid-to-liquid layered-core oil coolers (LCOCs)
It's commonly called an "oil cooler donut" and is fastened to the
block by an adapter that threads on in place of the filter, and that
the filter then threads onto. VERY large chance the oil leak is just
the gasket between the block and the sandwich (just a big "O" ring
like on an oil filter)
Most common supplier is Modine.(who invented the concept)

See
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...lter-leak.html
for details.

Its a "dumb as rocks" type of repair - sure far from "rocket science"
What the dummy who put the website together got wrong is what he calls
the "oil line" is in fact the other coolant line. Water in one end and
out the other. All the oil is supposed to stay inside the cooler, and
will unless the gasket goes bad or the donut gets perforated (quite
uncommon, by the way - compared to bad "O" rings.


I was wondering if I could order/replace just that O ring, or does the O
ring only come with the cooler part? Everyone's been telling me the same
thing about the O ring, but they aren't mechanics.

--
Maggie

On 9/1/2015 3:47 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:52:22 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:51 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 22:57:37 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:41 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:18:36 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/29/2015 2:31 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 1:02:19 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 08/29/2015 10:47 AM, Muggles wrote:
I've heard that older vehicles are held together by the old oil and if
you change it the motor thinks the world is coming to an end and won't
start any more.

how old is old? Back before detergent oil you definitely didn't want to
stir the **** up. Back when you adjusted valve clearance, I've pulled
valve covers to find what looked like a thick coating of grease.
suddenly introducing them to detergent oil wasn't a good idea. I think
that's where the paranoia about going from dino to synthetic came from.

Years ago, I had a K car with the 2.2Ltr 4cyl which had some miles on it and some gunk had built up in the engine. I drained the oil and with the valve cover off, I used a parts cleaning brush and diesel fuel to clean the valve train. I then poured a gallon of diesel into the crankcase by pouring it over the valve train washing the rest of the gunk down through the drain holes in the head. After getting the diesel in the crankcase, I took a 1/4" plastic air line and threaded it through the drain holes in the head until it got into the oil pan. The air line was then connected to an air compressor and the air turned on to cause the diesel to splash around in the crankcase to dissolve the gunk. I drained the crankcase and repeated the cleaning. After cleaning and reinstalling the valve cover, I installed a new oil filter then substituted a quart of Rislone for one quart of the new high detergent oil in the crankcase. I ran the car for several hundred miles and the oil was fairl
y
cl
ea
r when I checked it. The little engine stayed clean and the oil wasn't that dirty when changed at 5,000 miles. I never had a problem with the engine which was still running quietly when I sold the car. ^_^

http://rislone.com/product/engine-treatment/

[8~{} Uncle Oil Monster


I think if my old van had clean oil in it it wouldn't want to start!
If the oil was kept clean it would run a lot longer. (and may not
have corroded the oil cooler)


Well, she's 17 yrs old, so a few worn out parts occasionally aren't a
big surprise, I guess.
Mine is 20 and has 337000km on it - almost showroom condition and
runs and drives like new. Repairs to date virtually nill.


What kind of car is it?
It is an old Ford Ranger standard cab long-box pickup with a matching
fiberglass cap. 4 liter V6, 5 speed, 3.55 posi rear end, originally
came with 14" tires and 10.25" front rotors - converted to 16 inch
wheels and 11 inch rotors. Otherwise stock and original except for
clutch, "U" joints and windshield (and a couple light bulbs). Still
original rear brakes, exhaust, - everything. It came without A/C and I
installed A/C on it a couple years ago. Really glad to have it again
today, with 29C and 36 or 38 Humidex.


Ford seems to have made some really good cars over the years. I got the
belt replaced today. I tried to call another dealership to see if
they'd fix the oil leak, but their service dept. never answered, or
called me back. I guess Mondays are crazy for them, so I'll try again in
another day or so.

--
Maggie

On 9/1/2015 3:49 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:52 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 23:00:42 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.
5w20 or 5w30 was specified by the factory. Depending where you live
10W40 might be a good alternative in the summer if it has high mileage
or is staring to use a wee bit of oil (not lose it) - and if in Texas
or Arkansas or other hot place, even 20W50 for the summer.


The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?

--
Maggie

On 9/1/2015 8:37 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 01 Sep 2015 14:36:51 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.


5W30 oil changes viscosity. Best I can tell it is thinner (5) in
winter and 30 in summer. I've been known to use 40W
No, actually it changes viscosity LESS than a straight grade oil.
To put it simply - which means not 100% accurate - cold 5w30 oil acts
like cold 5 weight oil, and hot 5w30 oil behaves like hot 30 weight
oil. Oil behaves like corn syrup or honey. The colder it gets the
thicker it gets.. The warmer it gets the thinner it gets.

The way it is done is using a thin base oil (like SAE5) and adding a
viscosity index improver - which is a long chain polymer that curls
and uncurls with temperature, thickening the oil as it warms up.

The hot 5w30 is still thinner than cold 5 weight oil - just not as
much thinner


A while back I tried putting in some oil that is supposed to plug oil
leaks, and it worked for a while. If I tried it again, do you think
it'd work, or not help at all?

--
Maggie

On 09/01/2015 09:02 PM, Muggles wrote:
The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?

Around here, that's referred to as 'hardly broken in'. In a state where
the towns big enough to have a Burger King are 100 miles apart, it adds
up fast. Because of that most of the mileage is accumulated at 80 mph
with very little stop and go driving or idling in endless traffic jams.
A Boston van that never saw the other side of 128 and had 110,000 would
likely be ready for the crusher.

On 9/1/2015 11:09 PM, Muggles wrote:


A while back I tried putting in some oil that is supposed to plug oil
leaks, and it worked for a while. If I tried it again, do you think
it'd work, or not help at all?


Additives are a crap shoot. May work, may destroy the engine if it
plugs the wrong holes. Nothing is better than the right fix. As you've
already seen, it is not a permanent fix.

On 9/1/2015 11:02 PM, Muggles wrote:


The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?


Below average. Most people put 10,000 to 12,000 a year.

On Wed, 2 Sep 2015 10:13:08 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:02 PM, Muggles wrote:


The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?


Below average. Most people put 10,000 to 12,000 a year.

My '94 Bronco has 141,000 miles. Regular oil changes and no oil leaks.
It needs some other TLC, though

2006 Toyota - same with only 110,000 miles.

On 9/2/2015 9:38 AM, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 2 Sep 2015 10:13:08 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:02 PM, Muggles wrote:


The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?


Below average. Most people put 10,000 to 12,000 a year.

My '94 Bronco has 141,000 miles. Regular oil changes and no oil leaks.
It needs some other TLC, though

2006 Toyota - same with only 110,000 miles.

'85 Monte Carlo with 65K

On 9/2/2015 8:40 AM, rbowman wrote:
On 09/01/2015 09:02 PM, Muggles wrote:
The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?

Around here, that's referred to as 'hardly broken in'. In a state where
the towns big enough to have a Burger King are 100 miles apart, it adds
up fast. Because of that most of the mileage is accumulated at 80 mph
with very little stop and go driving or idling in endless traffic jams.
A Boston van that never saw the other side of 128 and had 110,000 would
likely be ready for the crusher.

I'd say about 80% is highway miles. The rest accumulated around town.

--
Maggie

On 9/2/2015 9:11 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/1/2015 11:09 PM, Muggles wrote:


A while back I tried putting in some oil that is supposed to plug oil
leaks, and it worked for a while. If I tried it again, do you think
it'd work, or not help at all?


Additives are a crap shoot. May work, may destroy the engine if it
plugs the wrong holes. Nothing is better than the right fix. As you've
already seen, it is not a permanent fix.

OK thanks for the info.

--
Maggie

On 9/2/2015 9:13 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/1/2015 11:02 PM, Muggles wrote:


The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?


Below average. Most people put 10,000 to 12,000 a year.

ahh so normal would be around 17K to 204K?

--
Maggie

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 21:57:53 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 3:38 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 01 Sep 2015 10:45:46 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 22:48:09 -0400, wrote:

http://picpaste.com/oLddMY9i.jpg

Have you checked the parts price at NAPA auto parts store? (not sure
what that piece is called but sure you can find it cheaper) And have
a local mechanic install it. A dealership wants you to leave your
purse


Haven't checked that particular store, yet, but I will, thanks.

My regular mechanic wouldn't do the job. Not sure why. Maybe it needs
some specific tool he doesn't have, or something along those lines.

No special tools required, and about a 40 minute job to replace after
it is on the hoist.

What is that part called and how is it fastened to the block? *.jpg
does not show any bolts...

Officially, it is a Liquid-to-liquid layered-core oil coolers (LCOCs)
It's commonly called an "oil cooler donut" and is fastened to the
block by an adapter that threads on in place of the filter, and that
the filter then threads onto. VERY large chance the oil leak is just
the gasket between the block and the sandwich (just a big "O" ring
like on an oil filter)
Most common supplier is Modine.(who invented the concept)

See
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...lter-leak.html
for details.

Its a "dumb as rocks" type of repair - sure far from "rocket science"
What the dummy who put the website together got wrong is what he calls
the "oil line" is in fact the other coolant line. Water in one end and
out the other. All the oil is supposed to stay inside the cooler, and
will unless the gasket goes bad or the donut gets perforated (quite
uncommon, by the way - compared to bad "O" rings.


I was wondering if I could order/replace just that O ring, or does the O
ring only come with the cooler part? Everyone's been telling me the same
thing about the O ring, but they aren't mechanics.
The o-ring is available separately from the dealer for under 10 bux.

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 22:02:53 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 3:49 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:52 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 23:00:42 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.
5w20 or 5w30 was specified by the factory. Depending where you live
10W40 might be a good alternative in the summer if it has high mileage
or is staring to use a wee bit of oil (not lose it) - and if in Texas
or Arkansas or other hot place, even 20W50 for the summer.


The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?
Exactly what van do you have, with which engine?? Generally speaking
110 thousand miles on a '98 would be low mileage for the year.

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 22:09:40 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 8:37 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 01 Sep 2015 14:36:51 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.


5W30 oil changes viscosity. Best I can tell it is thinner (5) in
winter and 30 in summer. I've been known to use 40W
No, actually it changes viscosity LESS than a straight grade oil.
To put it simply - which means not 100% accurate - cold 5w30 oil acts
like cold 5 weight oil, and hot 5w30 oil behaves like hot 30 weight
oil. Oil behaves like corn syrup or honey. The colder it gets the
thicker it gets.. The warmer it gets the thinner it gets.

The way it is done is using a thin base oil (like SAE5) and adding a
viscosity index improver - which is a long chain polymer that curls
and uncurls with temperature, thickening the oil as it warms up.

The hot 5w30 is still thinner than cold 5 weight oil - just not as
much thinner


A while back I tried putting in some oil that is supposed to plug oil
leaks, and it worked for a while. If I tried it again, do you think
it'd work, or not help at all?
Don't waste your money - most of those oil stop-leak products just
soften the rubber in seals and gaskets - which can effectively stop
some leaks - at least for a while. Second time 'round unlikely to be
anywhere near as effective. Some additives are really good for some
problems. This is one additive that is not much good for anything - in
my professional opinion.

On 9/2/2015 6:35 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 21:57:53 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 3:38 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 01 Sep 2015 10:45:46 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 22:48:09 -0400, wrote:

http://picpaste.com/oLddMY9i.jpg

Have you checked the parts price at NAPA auto parts store? (not sure
what that piece is called but sure you can find it cheaper) And have
a local mechanic install it. A dealership wants you to leave your
purse


Haven't checked that particular store, yet, but I will, thanks.

My regular mechanic wouldn't do the job. Not sure why. Maybe it needs
some specific tool he doesn't have, or something along those lines.

No special tools required, and about a 40 minute job to replace after
it is on the hoist.

What is that part called and how is it fastened to the block? *.jpg
does not show any bolts...

Officially, it is a Liquid-to-liquid layered-core oil coolers (LCOCs)
It's commonly called an "oil cooler donut" and is fastened to the
block by an adapter that threads on in place of the filter, and that
the filter then threads onto. VERY large chance the oil leak is just
the gasket between the block and the sandwich (just a big "O" ring
like on an oil filter)
Most common supplier is Modine.(who invented the concept)

See
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...lter-leak.html
for details.

Its a "dumb as rocks" type of repair - sure far from "rocket science"
What the dummy who put the website together got wrong is what he calls
the "oil line" is in fact the other coolant line. Water in one end and
out the other. All the oil is supposed to stay inside the cooler, and
will unless the gasket goes bad or the donut gets perforated (quite
uncommon, by the way - compared to bad "O" rings.


I was wondering if I could order/replace just that O ring, or does the O
ring only come with the cooler part? Everyone's been telling me the same
thing about the O ring, but they aren't mechanics.
The o-ring is available separately from the dealer for under 10 bux.


great!

--
Maggie

On 9/2/2015 6:37 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 22:02:53 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 3:49 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:52 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 23:00:42 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.
5w20 or 5w30 was specified by the factory. Depending where you live
10W40 might be a good alternative in the summer if it has high mileage
or is staring to use a wee bit of oil (not lose it) - and if in Texas
or Arkansas or other hot place, even 20W50 for the summer.


The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?
Exactly what van do you have, with which engine?? Generally speaking
110 thousand miles on a '98 would be low mileage for the year.


'98 Ford Windstar with 3.8L 6cyl engine.

--
Maggie

On 9/2/2015 6:39 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 22:09:40 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 8:37 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 01 Sep 2015 14:36:51 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.


5W30 oil changes viscosity. Best I can tell it is thinner (5) in
winter and 30 in summer. I've been known to use 40W
No, actually it changes viscosity LESS than a straight grade oil.
To put it simply - which means not 100% accurate - cold 5w30 oil acts
like cold 5 weight oil, and hot 5w30 oil behaves like hot 30 weight
oil. Oil behaves like corn syrup or honey. The colder it gets the
thicker it gets.. The warmer it gets the thinner it gets.

The way it is done is using a thin base oil (like SAE5) and adding a
viscosity index improver - which is a long chain polymer that curls
and uncurls with temperature, thickening the oil as it warms up.

The hot 5w30 is still thinner than cold 5 weight oil - just not as
much thinner


A while back I tried putting in some oil that is supposed to plug oil
leaks, and it worked for a while. If I tried it again, do you think
it'd work, or not help at all?
Don't waste your money - most of those oil stop-leak products just
soften the rubber in seals and gaskets - which can effectively stop
some leaks - at least for a while. Second time 'round unlikely to be
anywhere near as effective. Some additives are really good for some
problems. This is one additive that is not much good for anything - in
my professional opinion.


ok Thanks for the info!

--
Maggie

On Wed, 2 Sep 2015 18:42:51 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/2/2015 6:37 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 22:02:53 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 3:49 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:52 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 23:00:42 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.
5w20 or 5w30 was specified by the factory. Depending where you live
10W40 might be a good alternative in the summer if it has high mileage
or is staring to use a wee bit of oil (not lose it) - and if in Texas
or Arkansas or other hot place, even 20W50 for the summer.


The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?
Exactly what van do you have, with which engine?? Generally speaking
110 thousand miles on a '98 would be low mileage for the year.


'98 Ford Windstar with 3.8L 6cyl engine.
That's what I was afraid of. One of Ford's "better ideas" that wasn't
all it should/could have been - and the 3.8 is one of Ford's poorer
motors. That said, it's still a whole lot better than anything "the
general" had to offer at the time - and with any maintenance it is
often good for close to 200000 miles. That engine suffered from
timing cover and intake manifold leads as well as the oil cooler
gasket problem - and if ANY antifreeze gets into the oil, stop right
there and don't spend another penny on it. Antifreeze takes the
bearings of THAT particular engine out in a jiffy - the engine starts
to knock and there is NOTHING that can be done about it short of
replacing the engine.

What kind of shape is the body in - and where are you located??

On 9/2/2015 7:37 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 22:02:53 -0500, Muggles wrote:

The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?
Exactly what van do you have, with which engine?? Generally speaking
110 thousand miles on a '98 would be low mileage for the year.


My 98 Blazer has about 265k miles. I do take it
on service calls, not just to work every day.


-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 9/2/2015 7:28 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 2 Sep 2015 18:42:51 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/2/2015 6:37 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 22:02:53 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 3:49 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:52 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 23:00:42 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.
5w20 or 5w30 was specified by the factory. Depending where you live
10W40 might be a good alternative in the summer if it has high mileage
or is staring to use a wee bit of oil (not lose it) - and if in Texas
or Arkansas or other hot place, even 20W50 for the summer.


The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?
Exactly what van do you have, with which engine?? Generally speaking
110 thousand miles on a '98 would be low mileage for the year.


'98 Ford Windstar with 3.8L 6cyl engine.
That's what I was afraid of. One of Ford's "better ideas" that wasn't
all it should/could have been - and the 3.8 is one of Ford's poorer
motors. That said, it's still a whole lot better than anything "the
general" had to offer at the time - and with any maintenance it is
often good for close to 200000 miles. That engine suffered from
timing cover and intake manifold leads as well as the oil cooler
gasket problem - and if ANY antifreeze gets into the oil, stop right
there and don't spend another penny on it. Antifreeze takes the
bearings of THAT particular engine out in a jiffy - the engine starts
to knock and there is NOTHING that can be done about it short of
replacing the engine.

Now that you mention it, the overflow container for the antifreeze is
dirty like it has had some oil in it at some point, but I haven't
actually seen any oil floating in it.


What kind of shape is the body in - and where are you located??


The body is in OK shape. A little worn here or there and a tiny bit of
rust showing near the drivers side back.

--
Maggie

On 2015-09-02 8:28 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 2 Sep 2015 18:42:51 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/2/2015 6:37 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 22:02:53 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 3:49 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:52 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 23:00:42 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.
5w20 or 5w30 was specified by the factory. Depending where you live
10W40 might be a good alternative in the summer if it has high mileage
or is staring to use a wee bit of oil (not lose it) - and if in Texas
or Arkansas or other hot place, even 20W50 for the summer.


The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?
Exactly what van do you have, with which engine?? Generally speaking
110 thousand miles on a '98 would be low mileage for the year.


'98 Ford Windstar with 3.8L 6cyl engine.
That's what I was afraid of. One of Ford's "better ideas" that wasn't
all it should/could have been - and the 3.8 is one of Ford's poorer
motors. That said, it's still a whole lot better than anything "the
general" had to offer at the time - and with any maintenance it is
often good for close to 200000 miles. That engine suffered from
timing cover and intake manifold leads as well as the oil cooler
gasket problem - and if ANY antifreeze gets into the oil, stop right
there and don't spend another penny on it. Antifreeze takes the
bearings of THAT particular engine out in a jiffy - the engine starts
to knock and there is NOTHING that can be done about it short of
replacing the engine.

What kind of shape is the body in - and where are you located??

I got about 140K km, on a Ford 3.8 in an 89 TBird, beautiful car, then
stuff happened.

--
Froz...

Quando omni flunkus, moritati

On Thu, 3 Sep 2015 00:15:29 -0400, FrozenNorth
wrote:

On 2015-09-02 8:28 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 2 Sep 2015 18:42:51 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/2/2015 6:37 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 22:02:53 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 3:49 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 1 Sep 2015 12:53:07 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 9/1/2015 11:52 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 23:00:42 -0500, Muggles wrote:

On 8/31/2015 9:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 08/31/2015 10:49 AM, Muggles wrote:
17 year mini van

That's probably always had detergent oil.

I dunno. I was told to put 5w30 oil in it.
Never been a non-retergent 5W30


I don't know what sort of oil it is, just that's what I was told to put
in it because of it's age.
5w20 or 5w30 was specified by the factory. Depending where you live
10W40 might be a good alternative in the summer if it has high mileage
or is staring to use a wee bit of oil (not lose it) - and if in Texas
or Arkansas or other hot place, even 20W50 for the summer.


The mileage on it is 110,187. Is that considered high or low miles for
a '98 van?
Exactly what van do you have, with which engine?? Generally speaking
110 thousand miles on a '98 would be low mileage for the year.


'98 Ford Windstar with 3.8L 6cyl engine.
That's what I was afraid of. One of Ford's "better ideas" that wasn't
all it should/could have been - and the 3.8 is one of Ford's poorer
motors. That said, it's still a whole lot better than anything "the
general" had to offer at the time - and with any maintenance it is
often good for close to 200000 miles. That engine suffered from
timing cover and intake manifold leads as well as the oil cooler
gasket problem - and if ANY antifreeze gets into the oil, stop right
there and don't spend another penny on it. Antifreeze takes the
bearings of THAT particular engine out in a jiffy - the engine starts
to knock and there is NOTHING that can be done about it short of
replacing the engine.

What kind of shape is the body in - and where are you located??

I got about 140K km, on a Ford 3.8 in an 89 TBird, beautiful car, then
stuff happened.
Brotherinlaw had same car, block warped - crank and bearings replaced
under warranty didn't last 50,000 km - when he tried to have it
rebuilt good mechanic found the block was out of true and could not
even be line bored. Threw it back together and traded it back in to
the selling dealer who also did the warranty repair - - -