Is there a standard interval between studding on a plasterboard wall ?
should I be able to find the first studding by measuring out from an
exterior wall ?

ta

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mike wrote:

Is there a standard interval between studding on a plasterboard wall ?
should I be able to find the first studding by measuring out from an
exterior wall ?

ta

They're often (but not always) on 18" centres to fit 6' x 3' plasterboard
sheets. The end gaps may be different if the total length isn't an integral
multiple of the general interval - and there's no way of knowing which were
the start and finish ends.

You can get a stud finder for a few quid which makes a reasonable job of
finding the studs. It's a lot better than trying to second guess where they
might be!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mike wrote:

snip


I've got an old Rapitest stud/joist/pipe/cable detector, bought 10 years ago
after I detected a cable with a drill bit.
Unfortunately, I've lost the destructions, and I don't know if its still
working or not. It seems to be working fine when switched to 'metal' mode,
(i.e. it squeals and the light comes on over a cable) - in 'wood mode' even
with the sensitivity set to full, it detects nothing - put it on a
windowledge and the light stays off and the very faintest of a ticking noise
can be heard - might just change the battery

2 other questions - ;-)
1) the wall is an internal wall 2.4m long between two bedrooms, with only
the loft above. Will there definitely be studding, or am looking for
something that is not there ?
2) PP9 batteries - how come they are only ever found in devices you only use
once in a blue moon, and how come their lifespan is always bluemoon ?. I
really cant see any justification for not using AA cells

ta

In article , Mike
writes

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mike wrote:

snip


I've got an old Rapitest stud/joist/pipe/cable detector, bought 10 years ago
after I detected a cable with a drill bit.
Unfortunately, I've lost the destructions, and I don't know if its still
working or not. It seems to be working fine when switched to 'metal' mode,
(i.e. it squeals and the light comes on over a cable) - in 'wood mode' even
with the sensitivity set to full, it detects nothing - put it on a
windowledge and the light stays off and the very faintest of a ticking noise
can be heard - might just change the battery

2 other questions - ;-)
1) the wall is an internal wall 2.4m long between two bedrooms, with only
the loft above. Will there definitely be studding, or am looking for
something that is not there ?
2) PP9 batteries - how come they are only ever found in devices you only use
once in a blue moon, and how come their lifespan is always bluemoon ?. I
really cant see any justification for not using AA cells

I think you mean PP3. PP9's are enormous. The problem is you only get 3V
off two AA's, and much electronics needs the higher 9V of the PP3 to
work.

The other setting on my detector is not for wood, but for electrical
cables, and I think yours might be the same.

I find studs on the metal setting, just play with the sensitivity. Even
if you can't detect the stud, you should find some nails where the
boards are nailed on.
--
Tim Mitchell

I would beg to differ
Studs, joists, refters etc normally (and I hasten to add not always) are at
400mm centres 16" in old money. Most professionals would use 2400 x1200
sheets not 1800 x 900. If the board is 12.5 mm thick then it is possible to
go at 600 centres

Mike

On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 16:06:00 +0100, Mike wrote:

I've got an old Rapitest stud/joist/pipe/cable detector, bought 10 years ago
after I detected a cable with a drill bit.
Unfortunately, I've lost the destructions, and I don't know if its still
working or not. It seems to be working fine when switched to 'metal' mode,
(i.e. it squeals and the light comes on over a cable) - in 'wood mode' even
with the sensitivity set to full, it detects nothing - put it on a
windowledge and the light stays off and the very faintest of a ticking noise
can be heard - might just change the battery

Have you tried leaving it in metal mode and using it to find the
plasterboard screws/nails ?
Don't forget that there will probably be one or more rows of noggins going
between the studs, so once you have found what you think is a stud, go up
and down to make sure.
Are there any switches/sockets in the wall? You could (taking all
appropriate precautions of course) remove the faceplate and backbox and
probe through the hole to find the studs either side.

2 other questions - ;-)
1) the wall is an internal wall 2.4m long between two bedrooms, with only
the loft above. Will there definitely be studding, or am looking for
something that is not there ?

Yes, unless it is a brick/block wall :-)

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mike wrote:


2 other questions - ;-)
1) the wall is an internal wall 2.4m long between two bedrooms, with
only the loft above. Will there definitely be studding, or am looking
for something that is not there ?

Yes. You may even see the tops of the uprights in the loft - but there's
probably a horizontal member right over the top, so you won't.

2) PP9 batteries - how come they are only ever found in devices you
only use once in a blue moon, and how come their lifespan is always
bluemoon ?. I really cant see any justification for not using AA
cells

You probably mean PP3 - which are 9v. You would need 6 AAs to get 9v.
Duracel PP3s have a shelf life of quite a few years!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

You can usually find the studs by tapping lightly with e.g. a pin
hammer, and listening to the sound - it goes higher over the stud. If
you do this and mark with chalk as you go you soon build up a picture.
You can test for stud presence by probing with a thin bradawl or
screwdriver.
Do cheap stud detectors work? All the ones I've tried were no good.
Metal detectors OK though.
cheers

Jacob

"Mike Taylor" wrote in message ...
I would beg to differ
Studs, joists, refters etc normally (and I hasten to add not always) are at
400mm centres 16" in old money. Most professionals would use 2400 x1200
sheets not 1800 x 900. If the board is 12.5 mm thick then it is possible to
go at 600 centres


there are various spacings that have been used, one wall I have has
irregular spacings. Just tap, where its hollow theres no wood behind,
where its dull there wood there. Often you'll find 16 or 24" spacing,
but no guarantees.

Although its possible to have a solid wood wall, with eg half inch ply
sheet instead of framework, its very unlikely.

Regards, NT

On Tue, 31 Aug 2004 16:06:00 +0100, "Mike" strung
together this:

1) the wall is an internal wall 2.4m long between two bedrooms, with only
the loft above. Will there definitely be studding, or am looking for
something that is not there ?

No, there won't 'definitely' be studding. It could be a paramount wall
which would only have a piece of 2x2 every 1200mm.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

In article ,
Mike wrote:
2) PP9 batteries - how come they are only ever found in devices you only
use once in a blue moon, and how come their lifespan is always bluemoon
?. I really cant see any justification for not using AA cells

I'd guess you mean PP3? AA cells to make up 9 volts would take up a lot of
space. You could have an internal invertor to give 9 volts or so from 3,
and indeed many pro devices use this. Not sure about the costs, though.

--
*How come you never hear about gruntled employees? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Mike wrote:

2) PP9 batteries - how come they are only ever found in devices you only
use once in a blue moon, and how come their lifespan is always bluemoon
?. I really cant see any justification for not using AA cells


I'd guess you mean PP3? AA cells to make up 9 volts would take up a lot of
space. You could have an internal invertor to give 9 volts or so from 3,
and indeed many pro devices use this. Not sure about the costs, though.

I replaced the PP9 in my roberts radio with a spare 8.4v Nicad pack from
a toy plane. Its been great. Runing now for 2 years at zero cost of
battery replacement, and my R/C charger recharges it in 20 minutes...

PP3 sized rechargeables are available as well.

In article ,
jacob wrote:
You can usually find the studs by tapping lightly with e.g. a pin
hammer, and listening to the sound - it goes higher over the stud.

I've always just used a knuckle. But I'm Scottish...

--
*If tennis elbow is painful, imagine suffering with tennis balls *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I'd guess you mean PP3? AA cells to make up 9 volts would take up a
lot of space. You could have an internal invertor to give 9 volts or
so from 3, and indeed many pro devices use this. Not sure about the
costs, though.

I replaced the PP9 in my roberts radio with a spare 8.4v Nicad pack from
a toy plane. Its been great. Runing now for 2 years at zero cost of
battery replacement, and my R/C charger recharges it in 20 minutes...

PP3 sized rechargeables are available as well.

The problem with pro gear that uses something like a PP3 - radio mics etc
- is that they are designed to be as small as possible given a reasonable
battery life. And no rechargeable comes close to an alkaline in this
respect.

Many churches etc will get away with using a NiCad PP3, given that they
only need a couple of hours life. TV etc requires at least 6 hours so they
can be changed during a break.

--
*I'm not being rude. You're just insignificant

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I'd guess you mean PP3? AA cells to make up 9 volts would take up a
lot of space. You could have an internal invertor to give 9 volts or
so from 3, and indeed many pro devices use this. Not sure about the
costs, though.


I replaced the PP9 in my roberts radio with a spare 8.4v Nicad pack from
a toy plane. Its been great. Runing now for 2 years at zero cost of
battery replacement, and my R/C charger recharges it in 20 minutes...


PP3 sized rechargeables are available as well.


The problem with pro gear that uses something like a PP3 - radio mics etc
- is that they are designed to be as small as possible given a reasonable
battery life. And no rechargeable comes close to an alkaline in this
respect.

Many churches etc will get away with using a NiCad PP3, given that they
only need a couple of hours life. TV etc requires at least 6 hours so they
can be changed during a break.

I wonder if they cold handle 2 cell lithium packs? I'd say you could
getr up to an ampere hour at 7v or so, which wold equate to several days
of use at the sort of 10-15mA thata PP3 normally is cpaable of.

I'd agree that 7 Nicads in a PP3 sized box is likley to be about 80mA/h...

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The problem with pro gear that uses something like a PP3 - radio mics
etc - is that they are designed to be as small as possible given a
reasonable battery life. And no rechargeable comes close to an
alkaline in this respect.

Many churches etc will get away with using a NiCad PP3, given that
they only need a couple of hours life. TV etc requires at least 6
hours so they can be changed during a break.

I wonder if they cold handle 2 cell lithium packs? I'd say you could
getr up to an ampere hour at 7v or so, which wold equate to several days
of use at the sort of 10-15mA thata PP3 normally is cpaable of.

I'd agree that 7 Nicads in a PP3 sized box is likley to be about
80mA/h...

Trouble with pro use is you tend to change the batteries early - just to
be on the safe side. On a 'live' transmission, you'd use one set of
batteries for rehersal, and then one for dress run and transmission. And
since the operators rarely pay for the batteries, you want the cheapest
that will just do what's needed. So rarely Duracell.

With your own kit, where you're paying for the batteries and keep a
careful check on their use, longer lasting types can make financial sense.
Until the spark want a freebie for his walkman, that is...

--
*The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.