Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/4/2014 12:12 PM, Oren wrote:
I replaced my WH and could not get it lit. Closed the ball valve,
disconnected the line at the valve and opened the valve until I
smelled the odor. Closed the valve, connected the line and opened the
valve - presto, the WH fired right up.

It's not a total waste of usenet. At least
the rest of us get ideas how to keep a WH
going.

Hi,
I don't think Oren is blonde.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/4/2014 1:07 PM, Oren wrote:

A blonde goes to a auto parts store and asks for a Seven Ten cap.


What do polish Coke bottles say
on the bottom?

Hi,
Let me guess, The other end?.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 02:41:02 -0700, "Julie Bove"
wrote:


"philo " wrote in message


(Snip
if it was not drafting properly, then it was senseless to attempt a
repair or replacement...the venting must be fixed!

The venting was either done wrong or your chimney may be plugged.

I have no clue and apparently neither do they. It did work for a while.
Now it simply will not light at all. I did try again twice.

I agree that venting may be the problem (bird nest?) but usually, it
would light and then go out once the burner was on. Could be the
overheating burned out the thermocouple or something though.

Be sure they check the vent at both ends and run something through it.

They are working on it now. There is a bad part. Something to do with
letting the gas in. Also the venting may not be right. They were given the
International venting code but the guy wants to check the Washington Code
before doing anything because changing the venting will be expensive. There
is no Thermocouple on this kind. It's newer. It has a Thermo...something
else. Can't remember the name but it's fine.

"philo " wrote in message
...
On 09/04/2014 04:41 AM, Julie Bove wrote:

"do anything about it tonight. So... We wait.

Only thing I can figure is that it might be the venting. That is the
only thing they didn't check. They did say that the last one wasn't
drafting properly or something like that.
X






snip

if it was not drafting properly, then it was senseless to attempt a
repair or replacement...the venting must be fixed!

The venting was either done wrong or your chimney may be plugged.

I have no clue and apparently neither do they. It did work for a while.
Now it simply will not light at all. I did try again twice.



Maybe have a chimney expert look at it.

They may have to redo the venting. We'll see.

"Pete C." wrote in message
news

Julie Bove wrote:

"philo " wrote in message
...
On 09/04/2014 02:02 AM, Julie Bove wrote:
Oh so annoying! I had called the plumber because it was getting to
where our replacement water heater had to be lit once a day.
Initially
we had a new one installed on New Year's Eve, 2009. It worked for a
while but then I had to keep relighting it. At first it was perhaps
every three months, then every week then like every half an hour.

They never could find out what was wrong with it. They replaced every
part they could and finally just gave us a new one. And it was fine
at
first. But the same problems started happening up until now! I just
relight it perhaps 2 hours ago when daughter took a shower and ran out
of hot water. I had gotten to the point of being OCD in checking it
to
make sure it was still lit. And it had been the last time I looked.
And even though it is a 50 gallon tank, apparently when it goes out,
the
water cools very quickly.

So I relit it, called the plumber because it was getting to where I
had
to light it daily. Plumber asked me some questions about it and I had
to go out there to look at it. And it it wasn't lit! So it went out
less than 20 minutes after I lit it. And now it won't light at all.
Grrr... Grrr... Grrr...

I am sick of this. And they can't do anything about it tonight. Guy
said he could come out here but I would have to pay $150 just to get
him
out as it would be after hours charges. But he had no clue whether or
not he could do anything about it tonight. So... We wait.

Only thing I can figure is that it might be the venting. That is the
only thing they didn't check. They did say that the last one wasn't
drafting properly or something like that.
X




(Snip
if it was not drafting properly, then it was senseless to attempt a
repair or replacement...the venting must be fixed!

The venting was either done wrong or your chimney may be plugged.

I have no clue and apparently neither do they. It did work for a while.
Now it simply will not light at all. I did try again twice.

Perhaps have the gas company check? If it won't light at all it's
probably not a chimney/draft issue. Are there other gas appliances that
are working properly?

Plumber got it to light right away but he had difficulty moving the button.
I said that happens. It's either easy to move or it's sticky. There are no
other gas appliances. He does think the venting may be wrong for this kind
of water heater but may have been fine for the old one.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
Julie Bove wrote:

"philo " wrote in message
...
On 09/04/2014 02:02 AM, Julie Bove wrote:
Oh so annoying! I had called the plumber because it was getting to
where our replacement water heater had to be lit once a day. Initially
we had a new one installed on New Year's Eve, 2009. It worked for a
while but then I had to keep relighting it. At first it was perhaps
every three months, then every week then like every half an hour.

They never could find out what was wrong with it. They replaced every
part they could and finally just gave us a new one. And it was fine at
first. But the same problems started happening up until now! I just
relight it perhaps 2 hours ago when daughter took a shower and ran out
of hot water. I had gotten to the point of being OCD in checking it to
make sure it was still lit. And it had been the last time I looked.
And even though it is a 50 gallon tank, apparently when it goes out,
the
water cools very quickly.

So I relit it, called the plumber because it was getting to where I had
to light it daily. Plumber asked me some questions about it and I had
to go out there to look at it. And it it wasn't lit! So it went out
less than 20 minutes after I lit it. And now it won't light at all.
Grrr... Grrr... Grrr...

I am sick of this. And they can't do anything about it tonight. Guy
said he could come out here but I would have to pay $150 just to get
him
out as it would be after hours charges. But he had no clue whether or
not he could do anything about it tonight. So... We wait.

Only thing I can figure is that it might be the venting. That is the
only thing they didn't check. They did say that the last one wasn't
drafting properly or something like that.
X




(Snip
if it was not drafting properly, then it was senseless to attempt a
repair or replacement...the venting must be fixed!

The venting was either done wrong or your chimney may be plugged.

I have no clue and apparently neither do they. It did work for a while.
Now it simply will not light at all. I did try again twice.
Hi,
For now light a candle and stick it in the burner chamber, does it stay
lit? If so, gas sup[ply is OK?
Venting or gas supply, what else could be the trouble?
How is the venting done? Tied into furnace stack or all by itself?
Often we tend to over look most simple basic things experts do that all
the time too wasting time.
What kinda chimney?

By itself. Don't know what kind of chimney. But they did the flame test
before and said that it wasn't drafting right.

"Retirednoguilt" wrote in message
...
On 9/4/2014 3:02 AM, Julie Bove wrote:
Oh so annoying! I had called the plumber because it was getting to
where our replacement water heater had to be lit once a day.
Initially we had a new one installed on New Year's Eve, 2009. It
worked for a while but then I had to keep relighting it. At first it
was perhaps every three months, then every week then like every half
an hour.

They never could find out what was wrong with it. They replaced
every part they could and finally just gave us a new one. And it was
fine at first. But the same problems started happening up until now!
I just relight it perhaps 2 hours ago when daughter took a shower and
ran out of hot water. I had gotten to the point of being OCD in
checking it to make sure it was still lit. And it had been the last
time I looked. And even though it is a 50 gallon tank, apparently
when it goes out, the water cools very quickly.

So I relit it, called the plumber because it was getting to where I
had to light it daily. Plumber asked me some questions about it and
I had to go out there to look at it. And it it wasn't lit! So it
went out less than 20 minutes after I lit it. And now it won't light
at all. Grrr... Grrr... Grrr...

I am sick of this. And they can't do anything about it tonight. Guy
said he could come out here but I would have to pay $150 just to get
him out as it would be after hours charges. But he had no clue
whether or not he could do anything about it tonight. So... We
wait.

Only thing I can figure is that it might be the venting. That is the
only thing they didn't check. They did say that the last one wasn't
drafting properly or something like that.

I thought maybe that it had something to do with humidity. We had a
few humid days lately and it seemed to go out when it was humid.
Then the torrential downpour throughout the night last night that
knocked the power out. Amazingly enough the thing stayed lit through
all that.

Any evidence of condensation dripping on pilot light? If in the end you
can't get it to work and have to replace the water heater, get one with a
pilot-less ignition.

Nope.

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, September 4, 2014 7:03:14 AM UTC-4, Retirednoguilt wrote:
On 9/4/2014 3:02 AM, Julie Bove wrote:

Oh so annoying! I had called the plumber because it was getting to

where our replacement water heater had to be lit once a day.

Initially we had a new one installed on New Year's Eve, 2009. It

worked for a while but then I had to keep relighting it. At first it

was perhaps every three months, then every week then like every half

an hour.



They never could find out what was wrong with it. They replaced

every part they could and finally just gave us a new one. And it was

fine at first. But the same problems started happening up until now!

I just relight it perhaps 2 hours ago when daughter took a shower and

ran out of hot water. I had gotten to the point of being OCD in

checking it to make sure it was still lit. And it had been the last

time I looked. And even though it is a 50 gallon tank, apparently

when it goes out, the water cools very quickly.



So I relit it, called the plumber because it was getting to where I

had to light it daily. Plumber asked me some questions about it and

I had to go out there to look at it. And it it wasn't lit! So it

went out less than 20 minutes after I lit it. And now it won't light

at all. Grrr... Grrr... Grrr...



I am sick of this. And they can't do anything about it tonight. Guy

said he could come out here but I would have to pay $150 just to get

him out as it would be after hours charges. But he had no clue

whether or not he could do anything about it tonight. So... We

wait.



Only thing I can figure is that it might be the venting. That is the

only thing they didn't check. They did say that the last one wasn't

drafting properly or something like that.



I thought maybe that it had something to do with humidity. We had a

few humid days lately and it seemed to go out when it was humid.

Then the torrential downpour throughout the night last night that

knocked the power out. Amazingly enough the thing stayed lit through

all that.



Any evidence of condensation dripping on pilot light? If in the end you

can't get it to work and have to replace the water heater, get one with

a pilot-less ignition.

We went through this same situation with Julie months ago. Suggestions
were
made about checking the venting, how it's vented, any wind blowing into
garage
where the WH is located, possible bad thermocouples, ie all the obvious
things.
As I recall, the TC had been replaced at least once and the gas control
valve
had also been replaced. And I think it happened
with the garage door open or shut, ruling out some sudden gusts blowing
into the
garage. I don't recall hearing how or if it was resolved then. But it's
kind
of surprising that she would pay for a plumber to come out, again, and
still
no one has checked the venting? How about some pics at least of the
venting?

IDK exactly how venting could cause this either. Even if the vent were
blocked,
the pilot light wouldn't go out. It doesn't even need the vent for the
pilot light to remain lit. For it to go out, I would think it would need
the
venting to be arranged so that somehow it results in a sudden gust hitting
the pilot light. I presume the pilot orifice, tube between the valve and
orifice have been carefully checked?

If she can't find someone competent, then the other option is to just bite
the
bullet and get a new WH, one that doesn't use a pilot light.

Because the garage is so small, the venting goes at an odd angle. It's
complicated to explain but basically it needs to have a good 6 feet going
straight up and this doesn't.

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, September 4, 2014 3:02:28 AM UTC-4, Julie Bove wrote:
Oh so annoying! I had called the plumber because it was getting to where

our replacement water heater had to be lit once a day. Initially we had
a

new one installed on New Year's Eve, 2009. It worked for a while but
then I

had to keep relighting it. At first it was perhaps every three months,
then

every week then like every half an hour.



They never could find out what was wrong with it. They replaced every
part

they could and finally just gave us a new one. And it was fine at first.

But the same problems started happening up until now! I just relight it

perhaps 2 hours ago when daughter took a shower and ran out of hot water.
I

had gotten to the point of being OCD in checking it to make sure it was

still lit. And it had been the last time I looked. And even though it
is a

50 gallon tank, apparently when it goes out, the water cools very
quickly.



So I relit it, called the plumber because it was getting to where I had
to

light it daily. Plumber asked me some questions about it and I had to go

out there to look at it. And it it wasn't lit! So it went out less than
20

minutes after I lit it. And now it won't light at all. Grrr... Grrr...

Grrr...



I am sick of this. And they can't do anything about it tonight. Guy
said

he could come out here but I would have to pay $150 just to get him out
as

it would be after hours charges. But he had no clue whether or not he
could

do anything about it tonight. So... We wait.



Only thing I can figure is that it might be the venting. That is the
only

thing they didn't check. They did say that the last one wasn't drafting

properly or something like that.



I thought maybe that it had something to do with humidity. We had a few

humid days lately and it seemed to go out when it was humid. Then the

torrential downpour throughout the night last night that knocked the
power

out. Amazingly enough the thing stayed lit through all that.

a realtive of mine had this problem, turned out to be low gas pressure in
her neighborhood, it was a intermittenly bad regulat owned by the gas
company.....

this occured many states away so i am sorry but lack details.

OP should call their gas supplier to get the homes gad pressure checked.

simple stuff can screw stuff up.

my step sons van broke down. he called me in the middle of the night
saying it just quit. The gas gauge was flakey in that van, but he assured
me it wasnt out of gas.

van got towed to garage I told the garage check to make sure it has gas..

880 bucks later with a new battery and new fuel pump, the garage gave up
and said we dont know whats wrong.

hadvan towed to dealer, they were very busy. van sat for 5 days..

dealer noted gas gauge showed empty, put in one gallon of gas, van started
right up....

conclusions.....

van ran out of gas, stepson and garage didnt catch that van was out of
gas.

dealer was nice only charged for gasoline..

The gas pressure actually checked out fine.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
bob haller wrote:
On Thursday, September 4, 2014 3:02:28 AM UTC-4, Julie Bove wrote:
Oh so annoying! I had called the plumber because it was getting to
where

our replacement water heater had to be lit once a day. Initially we had
a

new one installed on New Year's Eve, 2009. It worked for a while but
then I

had to keep relighting it. At first it was perhaps every three months,
then

every week then like every half an hour.



They never could find out what was wrong with it. They replaced every
part

they could and finally just gave us a new one. And it was fine at
first.

But the same problems started happening up until now! I just relight it

perhaps 2 hours ago when daughter took a shower and ran out of hot
water. I

had gotten to the point of being OCD in checking it to make sure it was

still lit. And it had been the last time I looked. And even though it
is a

50 gallon tank, apparently when it goes out, the water cools very
quickly.



So I relit it, called the plumber because it was getting to where I had
to

light it daily. Plumber asked me some questions about it and I had to
go

out there to look at it. And it it wasn't lit! So it went out less
than 20

minutes after I lit it. And now it won't light at all. Grrr...
Grrr...

Grrr...



I am sick of this. And they can't do anything about it tonight. Guy
said

he could come out here but I would have to pay $150 just to get him out
as

it would be after hours charges. But he had no clue whether or not he
could

do anything about it tonight. So... We wait.



Only thing I can figure is that it might be the venting. That is the
only

thing they didn't check. They did say that the last one wasn't drafting

properly or something like that.



I thought maybe that it had something to do with humidity. We had a few

humid days lately and it seemed to go out when it was humid. Then the

torrential downpour throughout the night last night that knocked the
power

out. Amazingly enough the thing stayed lit through all that.

a realtive of mine had this problem, turned out to be low gas pressure in
her neighborhood, it was a intermittenly bad regulat owned by the gas
company.....

this occured many states away so i am sorry but lack details.

OP should call their gas supplier to get the homes gad pressure checked.

simple stuff can screw stuff up.

my step sons van broke down. he called me in the middle of the night
saying it just quit. The gas gauge was flakey in that van, but he assured
me it wasnt out of gas.

van got towed to garage I told the garage check to make sure it has gas..

880 bucks later with a new battery and new fuel pump, the garage gave up
and said we dont know whats wrong.

hadvan towed to dealer, they were very busy. van sat for 5 days..

dealer noted gas gauge showed empty, put in one gallon of gas, van
started right up....

conclusions.....

van ran out of gas, stepson and garage didnt catch that van was out of
gas.

dealer was nice only charged for gasoline..



Hi,
Most experienced techs often over look simplest basic things.
Some times green horns are better at trouble-shooting. Rule of thumb,
don't leave out any even slightest possibility.

I have two of them now. They seem to be checking everything.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
news
On 9/4/2014 3:02 AM, Julie Bove wrote:
Oh so annoying! I had called the plumber because it was getting to
where our replacement water heater had to be lit once a day. Initially
we had a new one installed on New Year's Eve, 2009. It worked for a
while but then I had to keep relighting it. At first it was perhaps
every three months, then every week then like every half an hour.

They never could find out what was wrong with it. They replaced every
part they could and finally just gave us a new one. And it was fine at
first. But the same problems started happening up until now! I just
relight it perhaps 2 hours ago when daughter took a shower and ran out
of hot water. I had gotten to the point of being OCD in checking it to
make sure it was still lit. And it had been the last time I looked.
And even though it is a 50 gallon tank, apparently when it goes out, the
water cools very quickly.

So I relit it, called the plumber because it was getting to where I had
to light it daily. Plumber asked me some questions about it and I had
to go out there to look at it. And it it wasn't lit! So it went out
less than 20 minutes after I lit it. And now it won't light at all.
Grrr... Grrr... Grrr...

I am sick of this. And they can't do anything about it tonight. Guy
said he could come out here but I would have to pay $150 just to get him
out as it would be after hours charges. But he had no clue whether or
not he could do anything about it tonight. So... We wait.

Only thing I can figure is that it might be the venting. That is the
only thing they didn't check. They did say that the last one wasn't
drafting properly or something like that.

I thought maybe that it had something to do with humidity. We had a few
humid days lately and it seemed to go out when it was humid. Then the
torrential downpour throughout the night last night that knocked the
power out. Amazingly enough the thing stayed lit through all that.

I'm very sorry to hear. Must be annoying. Did you want to ask
the folks on this list for ideas? Maybe someone will have
ideas what to check.

I can think of one or two, but you didn't ask.

The plumbers are checking it now. It's just frustrating that I have already
paid enough out in repairs to at least equal the cost of the original tank
and installation.

"Moe DeLoughan" wrote in message
...
On 9/4/2014 7:03 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/4/2014 3:02 AM, Julie Bove wrote:
Oh so annoying! I had called the plumber because it was getting to
where our replacement water heater had to be lit once a day. Initially
we had a new one installed on New Year's Eve, 2009. It worked for a
while but then I had to keep relighting it. At first it was perhaps
every three months, then every week then like every half an hour.

I'm very sorry to hear. Must be annoying. Did you want to ask
the folks on this list for ideas? Maybe someone will have
ideas what to check.

I can think of one or two, but you didn't ask.


Ha, Stormy, you nailed it - and her. Julie is into playing games. The game
she plays is the classic "Yeah, but". That's the one where a person
complains about something in order to get another person to reply with a
suggested solution. But the complainer will shoot down every single
suggestion with a "yeah, but", until the other person gives up in
frustration. The longer the complainer can keep the game running, the more
points she scores.

Julie's not here for solutions. She's here to play her game.

What game? I said that I called the plumber. There are two of them here
now. The tank is still under warranty but... I only have a one year
warranty with Day and Nite.

"nestork" wrote in message
...

I would watch the pilot light flame with all the windows and doors in
the house closed and the dryer and bathroom ceiling fan running.

I'm thinking that if the dryer is blowing air out of the house, make up
air needs to get into the house somewhere, and we may have a situation
where the downdraft through the water heater flue gas ducting may be
causing a down draft through the water heater. The water heater may be
fitted with a safety device which detects that "roll out" and shuts off
the water heater, including gas to the pilot light.

I'm thinking that with the warm weather lately, people have their A/C
running and would close their windows and doors to prevent the loss of
that cooling to the outside, thereby preventing make-up air coming in
anywhere except the water heater flue duct.

No other gas appliances and no AC.

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, September 4, 2014 9:04:42 AM UTC-4, nestork wrote:
I would watch the pilot light flame with all the windows and doors in

the house closed and the dryer and bathroom ceiling fan running.



I'm thinking that if the dryer is blowing air out of the house, make up

air needs to get into the house somewhere, and we may have a situation

where the downdraft through the water heater flue gas ducting may be

causing a down draft through the water heater. The water heater may be

fitted with a safety device which detects that "roll out" and shuts off

the water heater, including gas to the pilot light.



I'm thinking that with the warm weather lately, people have their A/C

running and would close their windows and doors to prevent the loss of

that cooling to the outside, thereby preventing make-up air coming in

anywhere except the water heater flue duct.



Julie went through this whole thing months ago. WH is in the garage.
And back then she said it made no difference if the garage door is open
or closed. I wonder if there is a chance the garage is so airtight that
shutting the garage door to the house could blow it out? I've never seen
a garage that tight, but who knows.

We have been having really wacky weather. We did lose power late Tues. into
Wed. morning. Plumber said a lot of people did have trouble during that
time because of weird winds. And that makes sense. But it doesn't explain
the pattern of it going out every three months, then two months, then
monthly, weekly, daily, etc. And I had to relight it every day for at least
a week. I didn't keep a record.

There is a bad part but... Is the part bad because the wrong venting made
it go bad? That remains to be seen.

"Bob F" wrote in message
...
trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, September 4, 2014 9:04:42 AM UTC-4, nestork wrote:
I would watch the pilot light flame with all the windows and doors in

the house closed and the dryer and bathroom ceiling fan running.



I'm thinking that if the dryer is blowing air out of the house, make
up

air needs to get into the house somewhere, and we may have a
situation

where the downdraft through the water heater flue gas ducting may be

causing a down draft through the water heater. The water heater may
be

fitted with a safety device which detects that "roll out" and shuts
off

the water heater, including gas to the pilot light.



I'm thinking that with the warm weather lately, people have their A/C

running and would close their windows and doors to prevent the loss
of

that cooling to the outside, thereby preventing make-up air coming in

anywhere except the water heater flue duct.



Julie went through this whole thing months ago. WH is in the garage.
And back then she said it made no difference if the garage door is
open or closed. I wonder if there is a chance the garage is so
airtight that shutting the garage door to the house could blow it
out? I've never seen a garage that tight, but who knows.

If the garage has a swing down door, closing that quickly (or opening
quickly) could blow the pilot out.

It's one of those with the hinged pieces on an opener.

On Thursday, September 4, 2014 5:13:54 PM UTC-5, Julie Bove wrote:
There

is no Thermocouple on this kind. It's newer. It has a Thermo...something

else. Can't remember the name but it's fine.

Thermopile...perhaps?

"Arthur Conan Doyle" wrote in message
news:frog0atq0j1o2qmqk4bninrjcrl3s1h4ak@None...
"Julie Bove" wrote:

It worked for a while but then I
had to keep relighting it. At first it was perhaps every three months,
then
every week then like every half an hour.

Modern gas water heaters use a sealed flame arrestor chamber for the
burner.
This was mandated for those who put the WH in a garage where there may be
flamable vapors.

The flame arrestor is usually implemented as a honeycomb like vent panel
under
the burner. Unfortunately, the very reason that this was implemented
(garage
location) makes the solution a PITA as garages tend to be dusty and dirty.
The
dirt quickly blocks the honeycomb vent and the oxygen sensor for the
burner
shuts the flame down.

Clean the honeycomb vent and see if your problem goes away.

Plumber did think of that but my garage is very clean. It's an odd little
garage. Not big enough for a car. Maybe a Smart Car. I mainly use it for
a pantry and other storage.

He did replace the pilot assembly and will be checking to see how the
venting should be. He said on these newer units, everything is much more
finicky.

"philo " wrote in message
...
On 09/04/2014 08:09 AM, Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
"Julie Bove" wrote:

It worked for a while but then I
had to keep relighting it. At first it was perhaps every three months,
then
every week then like every half an hour.

Modern gas water heaters use a sealed flame arrestor chamber for the
burner.
This was mandated for those who put the WH in a garage where there may be
flamable vapors.

The flame arrestor is usually implemented as a honeycomb like vent panel
under
the burner. Unfortunately, the very reason that this was implemented
(garage
location) makes the solution a PITA as garages tend to be dusty and
dirty. The
dirt quickly blocks the honeycomb vent and the oxygen sensor for the
burner
shuts the flame down.

Clean the honeycomb vent and see if your problem goes away.




She said the water heater is new, so it should not be dirty yet.

OTOH, I just realized there is something fishy about this story...
I don't think they even make water heaters with pilot lights any more.

They do. It's a Bradford White. Not new but not old. This was installed 2
years ago.

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, September 4, 2014 9:20:45 AM UTC-4, philo wrote:
On 09/04/2014 08:09 AM, Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:

"Julie Bove" wrote:



It worked for a while but then I

had to keep relighting it. At first it was perhaps every three months,
then

every week then like every half an hour.



Modern gas water heaters use a sealed flame arrestor chamber for the
burner.

This was mandated for those who put the WH in a garage where there may
be

flamable vapors.



The flame arrestor is usually implemented as a honeycomb like vent panel
under

the burner. Unfortunately, the very reason that this was implemented
(garage

location) makes the solution a PITA as garages tend to be dusty and
dirty. The

dirt quickly blocks the honeycomb vent and the oxygen sensor for the
burner

shuts the flame down.



Clean the honeycomb vent and see if your problem goes away.









She said the water heater is new, so it should not be dirty yet.



OTOH, I just realized there is something fishy about this story...

I don't think they even make water heaters with pilot lights any more.

They make and sell lots of water heaters with pilot lights, they are the
common, entry level models. I agree the story may be fishy, mainly
because we went through this whole thing with Julie months ago, yet she's
starting it up as if it's new.

---

No I'm not. I repeated the story. It's a very similar story and it's
happening again. I do understand that the venting may well be wrong. But
what doesn't make sense to me is why each of the units when new, worked for
about 3 months with no problems, then the problems began every 3 months,
every two months, every month, every week, every day then worse. To me it
would either work or not. I could understand it going out once in a while
due to weird weather or something. Just not this pattern but...

The plumber said once in a while this does happen. He said that these units
are normally very good but occasionally there are bad ones or they just have
to keep replacing things for whatever reason. It was also testing as
slightly hotter than it should have been. He said if it is running too hot
or too cold that can make the pilot light go out.

"philo " wrote in message
...
On 09/04/2014 09:00 AM, Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
philo wrote:

She said the water heater is new, so it should not be dirty yet.

New is relative - in a dirty environment it doesn't take very long for
the
honeycomb filter to get dirty.

OTOH, I just realized there is something fishy about this story...
I don't think they even make water heaters with pilot lights any more.

Pilots for gas water heaters are still quite common. It's not an energy
loss
situation (like an oven range) because the heat from the pilot still goes
into
the water.




My house is nearly 120 years old and the basement is pretty dusty and I've
never had any such problem.


I've been informed that they still do make water heaters with pilot
lights, so I know the OP is not trolling.

I did just recall however that I had a gas appliance (can't recall if it
was a drier or a water heater) with a pilot light adjustment.

If it was set too low it would alway go out...I'd check that .

I had it set to the "hot" position. Well, prior to the plumber coming. I
just got so fed up and frustrated that I turned it off. Water should be
about 120 degrees at that setting. When he tested the water coming out of
the tank, it was 105 which was odd. It had been running cold and had only
been on for perhaps 10 minutes but he said that may have been enough,
coupled with our unseasonably warm weather.

What wasn't right though was that 20 minutes after lighting the pilot, the
water at that setting was 145. So that wasn't good. I did have two air
fresheners sitting on the top of it. The kind in the plastic jars with the
beads inside. One new, one opened. He said those could have caused a
problem. Likely not but they could have.

"philo " wrote in message
...
On 09/04/2014 02:48 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
philo wrote:
On 09/04/2014 09:00 AM, Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
philo wrote:

She said the water heater is new, so it should not be dirty yet.

New is relative - in a dirty environment it doesn't take very long for
the
honeycomb filter to get dirty.

OTOH, I just realized there is something fishy about this story...
I don't think they even make water heaters with pilot lights any more.

Pilots for gas water heaters are still quite common. It's not an
energy loss
situation (like an oven range) because the heat from the pilot still
goes into
the water.




My house is nearly 120 years old and the basement is pretty dusty and
I've never had any such problem.


I've been informed that they still do make water heaters with pilot
lights, so I know the OP is not trolling.

I did just recall however that I had a gas appliance (can't recall if it
was a drier or a water heater) with a pilot light adjustment.

If it was set too low it would alway go out...I'd check that .
Hi,
It sure does. The adj. screw is in the gas vlve body. Little cap covers
the hole which has adj. screw pilot flame. My camping trailer WH had it.



This water heater stuff looks pretty straightforward

here is the first Google hit

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/adjust-...ght-47952.html


The contractor must be pretty inexperienced

They checked a variety of things. This particular guy was new to this
company as of about a year ago. He fixed my sink prior. But I don't think
he is new to the business. He did have a trainee with him. He put in a new
pilot light assembly.

"Bob F" wrote in message
...
Julie Bove wrote:
Oh so annoying! I had called the plumber because it was getting to
where our replacement water heater had to be lit once a day. Initially we
had a new one installed on New Year's Eve, 2009. It
worked for a while but then I had to keep relighting it. At first it
was perhaps every three months, then every week then like every half
an hour.
They never could find out what was wrong with it. They replaced
every part they could and finally just gave us a new one. And it was
fine at first. But the same problems started happening up until now! I
just relight it perhaps 2 hours ago when daughter took a shower and
ran out of hot water. I had gotten to the point of being OCD in
checking it to make sure it was still lit. And it had been the last
time I looked. And even though it is a 50 gallon tank, apparently
when it goes out, the water cools very quickly.
So I relit it, called the plumber because it was getting to where I
had to light it daily. Plumber asked me some questions about it and
I had to go out there to look at it. And it it wasn't lit! So it
went out less than 20 minutes after I lit it. And now it won't light
at all. Grrr... Grrr... Grrr...

If it won't light at all, it could just be infant failure of a new heater.
It is unlikely to be the same problem that causes the old one to act up.
Does the pilot light but won't stay on, or just not light?

It's not new. It's about 2 years old. He put in a new pilot light
assembly. He had no trouble at all lighting it although he did have trouble
moving the round knob. I told him that it does that sometimes. It's either
easy to move or it sticks. Don't know why.

Some of these Bradford-White's have 2 thermo-piles and operate a vent damper motor that uses the voltage from one (or both) of the thermo-piles. There is a micro-switch in the vent damper...if this is out of position...the burner will not light. I've also had a bad connection (crimped spade) on a thermo-pile that was replaced. Causing a loss of pilot flame.

Julie Bove wrote:

"Bob F" wrote in message
...
Julie Bove wrote:
Oh so annoying! I had called the plumber because it was getting to
where our replacement water heater had to be lit once a day.
Initially we had a new one installed on New Year's Eve, 2009. It
worked for a while but then I had to keep relighting it. At first it
was perhaps every three months, then every week then like every half
an hour.
They never could find out what was wrong with it. They replaced
every part they could and finally just gave us a new one. And it was
fine at first. But the same problems started happening up until now!
I just relight it perhaps 2 hours ago when daughter took a shower and
ran out of hot water. I had gotten to the point of being OCD in
checking it to make sure it was still lit. And it had been the last
time I looked. And even though it is a 50 gallon tank, apparently
when it goes out, the water cools very quickly.
So I relit it, called the plumber because it was getting to where I
had to light it daily. Plumber asked me some questions about it and
I had to go out there to look at it. And it it wasn't lit! So it
went out less than 20 minutes after I lit it. And now it won't light
at all. Grrr... Grrr... Grrr...

If it won't light at all, it could just be infant failure of a new
heater. It is unlikely to be the same problem that causes the old one
to act up. Does the pilot light but won't stay on, or just not light?

It's not new. It's about 2 years old. He put in a new pilot light
assembly. He had no trouble at all lighting it although he did have
trouble moving the round knob. I told him that it does that sometimes.
It's either easy to move or it sticks. Don't know why.
Hi,
That is gas valve aass'y. Then that ssould be first one to replace!!!

On 09/04/2014 06:02 PM, Julie Bove wrote:

"philo " wrote in message
...
On 09/04/2014 02:48 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
philo wrote:
On 09/04/2014 09:00 AM, Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
philo wrote:

She said the water heater is new, so it should not be dirty yet.

New is relative - in a dirty environment it doesn't take very long for
the
honeycomb filter to get dirty.

OTOH, I just realized there is something fishy about this story...
I don't think they even make water heaters with pilot lights any
more.

Pilots for gas water heaters are still quite common. It's not an
energy loss
situation (like an oven range) because the heat from the pilot still
goes into
the water.




My house is nearly 120 years old and the basement is pretty dusty and
I've never had any such problem.


I've been informed that they still do make water heaters with pilot
lights, so I know the OP is not trolling.

I did just recall however that I had a gas appliance (can't recall
if it
was a drier or a water heater) with a pilot light adjustment.

If it was set too low it would alway go out...I'd check that .
Hi,
It sure does. The adj. screw is in the gas vlve body. Little cap covers
the hole which has adj. screw pilot flame. My camping trailer WH had it.



This water heater stuff looks pretty straightforward

here is the first Google hit

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/adjust-...ght-47952.html


The contractor must be pretty inexperienced

They checked a variety of things. This particular guy was new to this
company as of about a year ago. He fixed my sink prior. But I don't
think he is new to the business. He did have a trainee with him. He
put in a new pilot light assembly.


But he apparently did not adjust it, so the guy must be very new..

probably you should call someone who knows how to do the job correctly

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 16:00:31 -0700, "Julie Bove"
wrote:


"philo " wrote in message
...
On 09/04/2014 09:00 AM, Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
philo wrote:

She said the water heater is new, so it should not be dirty yet.

New is relative - in a dirty environment it doesn't take very long for
the
honeycomb filter to get dirty.

OTOH, I just realized there is something fishy about this story...
I don't think they even make water heaters with pilot lights any more.

Pilots for gas water heaters are still quite common. It's not an energy
loss
situation (like an oven range) because the heat from the pilot still goes
into
the water.




My house is nearly 120 years old and the basement is pretty dusty and I've
never had any such problem.


I've been informed that they still do make water heaters with pilot
lights, so I know the OP is not trolling.

I did just recall however that I had a gas appliance (can't recall if it
was a drier or a water heater) with a pilot light adjustment.

If it was set too low it would alway go out...I'd check that .

I had it set to the "hot" position. Well, prior to the plumber coming. I
just got so fed up and frustrated that I turned it off. Water should be
about 120 degrees at that setting.

Philo is talking about the pilot light size adjustment, not the water
heater temperature adjustment, which you are talking about.

Apparently on some or all GWH, there is a screw that adjusts the size of
the pilot flame. The screw is I read here covered by a cap. I'm
thininking mayb a plastic cap that just pushes on over the screw and
comes off by pulling, if you can get your fingers on it, or maybe by
lifting the cap at the bottom in two places, perhaps one place at a
time, if you can't get your fingers in there. Since the plumber
just changed the pilot light assembly, it seems at least one would have
had the pilot light adjustment correct, but maybe not if there is
inadquate gas pressure in general. I don't know how long it will
take the gas company to check the pressure and then fix it if is low.
Maybe you can save yourself the wait by opening up the valve a little
bit.

If you find the screw, keep track of many turns you make - by looking at
the white label on the side of a screwdriver, or by using a Sharpie to
make a line on the side of any tool you are using that doesn't have a
label -- and write it down. and if you later find that wasn't the real
problem. you can turn it back to where it was.


The honeycomb thing sounds like a lead to me. Do you have one? Did it
get changed when the pilot light assembly got changed? Is it dirty?
Was it dirty. I have to go now.


When he tested the water coming out of
the tank, it was 105 which was odd. It had been running cold and had only
been on for perhaps 10 minutes but he said that may have been enough,
coupled with our unseasonably warm weather.

10 minutes is enough to heat the water more than 105? Maybe if the
water that comes out is right where the heat is applied, but even then,
does't water convection mix the just heated water with cold water?

What wasn't right though was that 20 minutes after lighting the pilot, the
water at that setting was 145. So that wasn't good. I did have two air
fresheners sitting on the top of it. The kind in the plastic jars with the
beads inside. One new, one opened. He said those could have caused a
problem. Likely not but they could have.

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:13:54 -0700, "Julie Bove"
wrote:


They are working on it now. There is a bad part. Something to do with
letting the gas in. Also the venting may not be right. They were given the
International venting code but the guy wants to check the Washington Code
before doing anything because changing the venting will be expensive. There
is no Thermocouple on this kind. It's newer. It has a Thermo...something

You can't count on there being a couple these days. There might be
three of them, or four, or two of the same kind. If there are two of
the same kind, it won't bend when it gets hot, because they expand at
the same rate.

else. Can't remember the name but it's fine.

wrote:
On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 08:32:05 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Moe DeLoughan wrote:

Back when I was a young 'un, I drove an old beater with an
unreliable gas gauge. I got in the habit of setting the trip
odometer every time I filled up and noting the miles I'd used on
that tankful. I knew when I'd put about 250 miles on, it was
getting close to time to fill the tank. It's now a habit. I never
look at the gas gauge, I check my trip odometer.

The gas guage causes me to look at the trip odometer. That decides
if It's time to get gas. The trip odometer is a way more accurate
indicator of how much gas is in the tank.

Unless you left the vehicle idle, or it sprung a leak, or someone used
a "mexican credit card", or your brakes started to drag, or you pulled
a heavy load or had heand - all of which will cause the vehicle to run
out of gas sooner than the odo would indicate.

I don't do the first few thing, and if I'm driving with unusual loads, I'm smart
enough to compensate. I'm not trying to use every last drop in the tank either.
The fact is that in my experience, gfas gauges are very inaccurate and
non-linear.

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:47:00 -0700 (PDT), BenDarrenBach
wrote:

On Thursday, September 4, 2014 5:13:54 PM UTC-5, Julie Bove wrote:
There

is no Thermocouple on this kind. It's newer. It has a Thermo...something

else. Can't remember the name but it's fine.

Thermopile...perhaps?

Or there might be a pile of them.

"BenDarrenBach" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, September 4, 2014 5:13:54 PM UTC-5, Julie Bove wrote:
There

is no Thermocouple on this kind. It's newer. It has a
Thermo...something

else. Can't remember the name but it's fine.

Thermopile...perhaps?

That might be.

"BenDarrenBach" wrote in message
...
Some of these Bradford-White's have 2 thermo-piles and operate a vent damper
motor that uses the voltage from one (or both) of the thermo-piles. There is
a micro-switch in the vent damper...if this is out of position...the burner
will not light. I've also had a bad connection (crimped spade) on a
thermo-pile that was replaced. Causing a loss of pilot flame.

Interesting! Thanks! I don't think that I have that kind but I might.

"micky" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 16:00:31 -0700, "Julie Bove"
wrote:


"philo " wrote in message
...
On 09/04/2014 09:00 AM, Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
philo wrote:

She said the water heater is new, so it should not be dirty yet.

New is relative - in a dirty environment it doesn't take very long for
the
honeycomb filter to get dirty.

OTOH, I just realized there is something fishy about this story...
I don't think they even make water heaters with pilot lights any more.

Pilots for gas water heaters are still quite common. It's not an energy
loss
situation (like an oven range) because the heat from the pilot still
goes
into
the water.




My house is nearly 120 years old and the basement is pretty dusty and
I've
never had any such problem.


I've been informed that they still do make water heaters with pilot
lights, so I know the OP is not trolling.

I did just recall however that I had a gas appliance (can't recall if it
was a drier or a water heater) with a pilot light adjustment.

If it was set too low it would alway go out...I'd check that .

I had it set to the "hot" position. Well, prior to the plumber coming. I
just got so fed up and frustrated that I turned it off. Water should be
about 120 degrees at that setting.

Philo is talking about the pilot light size adjustment, not the water
heater temperature adjustment, which you are talking about.

Apparently on some or all GWH, there is a screw that adjusts the size of
the pilot flame. The screw is I read here covered by a cap. I'm
thininking mayb a plastic cap that just pushes on over the screw and
comes off by pulling, if you can get your fingers on it, or maybe by
lifting the cap at the bottom in two places, perhaps one place at a
time, if you can't get your fingers in there. Since the plumber
just changed the pilot light assembly, it seems at least one would have
had the pilot light adjustment correct, but maybe not if there is
inadquate gas pressure in general. I don't know how long it will
take the gas company to check the pressure and then fix it if is low.
Maybe you can save yourself the wait by opening up the valve a little
bit.

If you find the screw, keep track of many turns you make - by looking at
the white label on the side of a screwdriver, or by using a Sharpie to
make a line on the side of any tool you are using that doesn't have a
label -- and write it down. and if you later find that wasn't the real
problem. you can turn it back to where it was.


The honeycomb thing sounds like a lead to me. Do you have one? Did it
get changed when the pilot light assembly got changed? Is it dirty?
Was it dirty. I have to go now.

I don't know. I would just as soon not poke around in there.


When he tested the water coming out of
the tank, it was 105 which was odd. It had been running cold and had only
been on for perhaps 10 minutes but he said that may have been enough,
coupled with our unseasonably warm weather.

10 minutes is enough to heat the water more than 105? Maybe if the
water that comes out is right where the heat is applied, but even then,
does't water convection mix the just heated water with cold water?

I don't know. Something didn't sound right to me. Water went to cold, then
it was only on for 10 minutes and 15 hours later it was still hot?

"philo " wrote in message
...
On 09/04/2014 06:02 PM, Julie Bove wrote:

"philo " wrote in message
...
On 09/04/2014 02:48 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
philo wrote:
On 09/04/2014 09:00 AM, Arthur Conan Doyle wrote:
philo wrote:

She said the water heater is new, so it should not be dirty yet.

New is relative - in a dirty environment it doesn't take very long
for
the
honeycomb filter to get dirty.

OTOH, I just realized there is something fishy about this story...
I don't think they even make water heaters with pilot lights any
more.

Pilots for gas water heaters are still quite common. It's not an
energy loss
situation (like an oven range) because the heat from the pilot still
goes into
the water.




My house is nearly 120 years old and the basement is pretty dusty and
I've never had any such problem.


I've been informed that they still do make water heaters with pilot
lights, so I know the OP is not trolling.

I did just recall however that I had a gas appliance (can't recall
if it
was a drier or a water heater) with a pilot light adjustment.

If it was set too low it would alway go out...I'd check that .
Hi,
It sure does. The adj. screw is in the gas vlve body. Little cap covers
the hole which has adj. screw pilot flame. My camping trailer WH had
it.



This water heater stuff looks pretty straightforward

here is the first Google hit

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/adjust-...ght-47952.html


The contractor must be pretty inexperienced

They checked a variety of things. This particular guy was new to this
company as of about a year ago. He fixed my sink prior. But I don't
think he is new to the business. He did have a trainee with him. He
put in a new pilot light assembly.


But he apparently did not adjust it, so the guy must be very new..

probably you should call someone who knows how to do the job correctly

I don't know if he adjusted it or not. I was trying to watch but seeing as
how I don't know what they were doing unless they told me specifically,
well...

On 04 Sep 2014 19:05:34 GMT, Zaky Waky wrote:

wrote in
:

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 08:32:05 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Moe DeLoughan wrote:

Back when I was a young 'un, I drove an old beater with an
unreliable gas gauge. I got in the habit of setting the trip
odometer every time I filled up and noting the miles I'd used on
that tankful. I knew when I'd put about 250 miles on, it was getting
close to time to fill the tank. It's now a habit. I never look at
the gas gauge, I check my trip odometer.

The gas guage causes me to look at the trip odometer. That decides if
It's time to get gas. The trip odometer is a way more accurate
indicator of how much gas is in the tank.

Unless you left the vehicle idle, or it sprung a leak, or someone used
a "mexican credit card", or your brakes started to drag, or you pulled
a heavy load or had heand - all of which will cause the vehicle to run
out of gas sooner than the odo would indicate.


Does Moe seem like the kind of guy who would do or not notice any of those
things? He doesn't seem like that to me. So your comment is simply
contrarian for the sake of being contrarian. The sure sign of an asshole.
Takes one to know one you wacky cracker.

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 19:47:37 -0700, "Julie Bove"
wrote:



10 minutes is enough to heat the water more than 105? Maybe if the
water that comes out is right where the heat is applied, but even then,
does't water convection mix the just heated water with cold water?

I don't know. Something didn't sound right to me. Water went to cold, then
it was only on for 10 minutes and 15 hours later it was still hot?

Well, I live alone, and I've gone two days with hot water after turning
off the wh. Just me, no laundry or dishwasher. Maybe I was going out
of town so I turned it off early. Or maybe there was a power outage.

I have an electric wh. They may have better insulation than gas do,
although I think it was just an inch and a half of the pink fiberglass.
Is that a lot? . How much less could gas have?

(They talk about a glass tank and I was worried bringing it home and
down to the basement that I'd break the glass. It's not glass. It's
bendable "plastic:, somewhere between milky white and clear, with maybe
glass in it for all I know There is no way it could break. Are
others any different?)

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 19:26:12 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 08:32:05 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Moe DeLoughan wrote:

Back when I was a young 'un, I drove an old beater with an
unreliable gas gauge. I got in the habit of setting the trip
odometer every time I filled up and noting the miles I'd used on
that tankful. I knew when I'd put about 250 miles on, it was
getting close to time to fill the tank. It's now a habit. I never
look at the gas gauge, I check my trip odometer.

The gas guage causes me to look at the trip odometer. That decides
if It's time to get gas. The trip odometer is a way more accurate
indicator of how much gas is in the tank.

Unless you left the vehicle idle, or it sprung a leak, or someone used
a "mexican credit card", or your brakes started to drag, or you pulled
a heavy load or had heand - all of which will cause the vehicle to run
out of gas sooner than the odo would indicate.

I don't do the first few thing, and if I'm driving with unusual loads, I'm smart
enough to compensate. I'm not trying to use every last drop in the tank either.
The fact is that in my experience, gfas gauges are very inaccurate and
non-linear.

s are not made to be "accurate" or "Linear". They are simply a fuel
level indicator. They are GENERALLY very repeatable. I have never,
personally, owned a car that the fuel guage would read too low one
time and too high the next, and I've only had one that would
effectively run out of gas before the guage showed empty - and on that
one (1995 Pontiac TransSport) it wasn't a guage issue. If I hit rough
road (washboad) with lessr than 1/4 tank the bottom of the plastic
tank would shake so much the fuel pickup sucked air, and the engine
ran out of gas. Bleed the air out of the injector rail, and it would
start right up and go another 70km or more on smooth roads.
Most cars are set up to turn on the low fuel warning with a 20 mile or
30km "reserve". I had one that when it said empty it WAS empty, and
one that would go 100km after the guage stopped moving below empty -
but both were CONSISTENT that way.

I DO zero my ODO at every fillup - and I DO watch the trip meter - but
I watch the fuel guage to determine when I need fuel. My Ranger can
give me 15MPG, or it can give me 27MPG - and that is a BIG difference
in the number of miles I get on a tank!!!!!

Same with the Taurus. 22-34MPG depending on road conditions, fuel,
speed, temperature etc, all on the same trip (3000 miles) over a 2
week period.

On 09/04/2014 09:48 PM, Julie Bove wrote:



This water heater stuff looks pretty straightforward

here is the first Google hit

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/adjust-...ght-47952.html


The contractor must be pretty inexperienced

They checked a variety of things. This particular guy was new to this
company as of about a year ago. He fixed my sink prior. But I don't
think he is new to the business. He did have a trainee with him. He
put in a new pilot light assembly.


But he apparently did not adjust it, so the guy must be very new..

probably you should call someone who knows how to do the job correctly

I don't know if he adjusted it or not. I was trying to watch but seeing
as how I don't know what they were doing unless they told me
specifically, well...



You are entitled to ask

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:23:02 -0700, "Julie Bove"
wrote in

The plumbers are checking it now. It's just frustrating that I have already
paid enough out in repairs to at least equal the cost of the original tank
and installation.

What is the make/model of the water heater?
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"CRNG" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 15:23:02 -0700, "Julie Bove"
wrote in

The plumbers are checking it now. It's just frustrating that I have
already
paid enough out in repairs to at least equal the cost of the original tank
and installation.

What is the make/model of the water heater?

Not sure of the model. It's on there somewhere as I heard the plumber
talking about it. I just didn't see it. It's a 50 gallon, Bradford White.

"micky" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 19:47:37 -0700, "Julie Bove"
wrote:



10 minutes is enough to heat the water more than 105? Maybe if the
water that comes out is right where the heat is applied, but even then,
does't water convection mix the just heated water with cold water?

I don't know. Something didn't sound right to me. Water went to cold,
then
it was only on for 10 minutes and 15 hours later it was still hot?

Well, I live alone, and I've gone two days with hot water after turning
off the wh. Just me, no laundry or dishwasher. Maybe I was going out
of town so I turned it off early. Or maybe there was a power outage.

I have an electric wh. They may have better insulation than gas do,
although I think it was just an inch and a half of the pink fiberglass.
Is that a lot? . How much less could gas have?

(They talk about a glass tank and I was worried bringing it home and
down to the basement that I'd break the glass. It's not glass. It's
bendable "plastic:, somewhere between milky white and clear, with maybe
glass in it for all I know There is no way it could break. Are
others any different?)

I personally don't use a lot of hot water. I take quick showers, rarely use
the dishwasher and almost always wash clothing in cold. But... Both
daughter and husband take super long showers and she is guilty of letting
the shower run for 10-20 minutes or longer before getting in it. Twice she
has fallen asleep with the shower running. I don't even notice until I
realize that it is very quiet and then I can feel the steam wafting out
here. By then the entire room is dripping wet. Neither she nor husband
will use the vent fan! Oh and body take super hot showers. I can not bear
to get in the water at the temperature they do.