I've got a scooter that has a 11/16" keyed axle but most replacement wheels
I can find on Ebay have a 13/16" hole. I seem to recall from machine shop
in 1969 that a motor shaft can be fitting with a slip-on "collar" (not sure
of the right word) that would add to the diameter of the shaft/axle and make
the wheel/pulley with the larger opening fit more snuggly.

Any suggestions on where to find such a device or other means to use a
slightly oversized wheel opening on the existing axle? From what I
understand the manufacturer "heavied up" the axle by an 1/8" because they
were getting bent. I've found a lot of replacement wheels (looking to
replace the tube type that's on there now with foam filled puncture proof
tires) and almost every wheel I've found on Ebay is the large hub size.

Thanks in advance for your input!

--
Bobby G.

Robert Green posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


I've got a scooter that has a 11/16" keyed axle but most replacement wheels
I can find on Ebay have a 13/16" hole. I seem to recall from machine shop
in 1969 that a motor shaft can be fitting with a slip-on "collar" (not sure
of the right word) that would add to the diameter of the shaft/axle and make
the wheel/pulley with the larger opening fit more snuggly.

Any suggestions on where to find such a device or other means to use a
slightly oversized wheel opening on the existing axle? From what I
understand the manufacturer "heavied up" the axle by an 1/8" because they
were getting bent. I've found a lot of replacement wheels (looking to
replace the tube type that's on there now with foam filled puncture proof
tires) and almost every wheel I've found on Ebay is the large hub size.

Thanks in advance for your input!

The key in the axle is the problem. I suppose a machine shop could make a
bushing with key-ways in it but economical feasible IDK.

--
Tekkie

"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
Robert Green posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


I've got a scooter that has a 11/16" keyed axle but most replacement
wheels
I can find on Ebay have a 13/16" hole. I seem to recall from machine
shop
in 1969 that a motor shaft can be fitting with a slip-on "collar" (not
sure
of the right word) that would add to the diameter of the shaft/axle and
make
the wheel/pulley with the larger opening fit more snuggly.


The key in the axle is the problem. I suppose a machine shop could make a
bushing with key-ways in it but economical feasible IDK.

I've seen the item I am looking for. It's a springy tube with a channel cut
down the entire center so that it clips onto the undersized axle/shaft. The
channel gives the tube the ability to be undersized enough so that spreading
the channel open slightly when installed makes it stay on pretty tightly.
The channel also serves to allow keyways and setscrews to do their job. In
fact, without the keyways/set screws, the add-on tube would just freewheel.

Now I just need a name/source for the slotted tube I am describing. We used
to use them in machine shop when mounting pulleys on a shaft that was too
small to mount it securely. In 1969. (-:

--
Bobby G.

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
I've got a scooter that has a 11/16" keyed axle but most replacement
wheels
I can find on Ebay have a 13/16" hole. I seem to recall from machine shop
in 1969 that a motor shaft can be fitting with a slip-on "collar" (not
sure
of the right word) that would add to the diameter of the shaft/axle and
make
the wheel/pulley with the larger opening fit more snuggly.

http://www.skf.com/us/products/vehic...its/index.html

SH

Robert Green wrote:
"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
Robert Green posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


I've got a scooter that has a 11/16" keyed axle but most
replacement wheels I can find on Ebay have a 13/16" hole. I seem
to recall from machine shop in 1969 that a motor shaft can be
fitting with a slip-on "collar" (not sure of the right word) that
would add to the diameter of the shaft/axle and make the
wheel/pulley with the larger opening fit more snuggly.


The key in the axle is the problem. I suppose a machine shop could
make a bushing with key-ways in it but economical feasible IDK.

I've seen the item I am looking for. It's a springy tube with a
channel cut down the entire center so that it clips onto the
undersized axle/shaft. The channel gives the tube the ability to be
undersized enough so that spreading the channel open slightly when
installed makes it stay on pretty tightly. The channel also serves to
allow keyways and setscrews to do their job. In fact, without the
keyways/set screws, the add-on tube would just freewheel.

Now I just need a name/source for the slotted tube I am describing.
We used to use them in machine shop when mounting pulleys on a shaft
that was too small to mount it securely. In 1969. (-:

It's called a bushing .

--
Snag

On 7/17/14, 2:58 PM, Robert Green wrote:
I've got a scooter that has a 11/16" keyed axle but most replacement wheels
I can find on Ebay have a 13/16" hole. I seem to recall from machine shop
in 1969 that a motor shaft can be fitting with a slip-on "collar" (not sure
of the right word) that would add to the diameter of the shaft/axle and make
the wheel/pulley with the larger opening fit more snuggly.

Any suggestions on where to find such a device or other means to use a
slightly oversized wheel opening on the existing axle? From what I
understand the manufacturer "heavied up" the axle by an 1/8" because they
were getting bent. I've found a lot of replacement wheels (looking to
replace the tube type that's on there now with foam filled puncture proof
tires) and almost every wheel I've found on Ebay is the large hub size.

Thanks in advance for your input!

--
Bobby G.



McMaster-Carr might have what you describe, but not in your size.

Check http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-re...shings/=svqshr

They also have an extensive list of wheels. Take a look for what you need

http://www.mcmaster.com/#wheels/=svqu2i

On Thu, 17 Jul 2014 17:36:37 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Robert Green wrote:
"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
Robert Green posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP


I've got a scooter that has a 11/16" keyed axle but most
replacement wheels I can find on Ebay have a 13/16" hole. I seem
to recall from machine shop in 1969 that a motor shaft can be
fitting with a slip-on "collar" (not sure of the right word) that
would add to the diameter of the shaft/axle and make the
wheel/pulley with the larger opening fit more snuggly.


The key in the axle is the problem. I suppose a machine shop could
make a bushing with key-ways in it but economical feasible IDK.

I've seen the item I am looking for. It's a springy tube with a
channel cut down the entire center so that it clips onto the
undersized axle/shaft. The channel gives the tube the ability to be
undersized enough so that spreading the channel open slightly when
installed makes it stay on pretty tightly. The channel also serves to
allow keyways and setscrews to do their job. In fact, without the
keyways/set screws, the add-on tube would just freewheel.

Now I just need a name/source for the slotted tube I am describing.
We used to use them in machine shop when mounting pulleys on a shaft
that was too small to mount it securely. In 1969. (-:

It's called a bushing .
But what's wrong with finding the right wheel? The bushings generally
wear quickly when pounded around on a power chair

wrote in message

But what's wrong with finding the right wheel? The bushings generally
wear quickly when pounded around on a power chair

Wheels. It's cost. I got some new foam filled tires and rims for less than
1/5 the price of just new tires ones on Ebay. Factory original equipment
for these items are outrageously priced because as "durable medical
equipment" the list price is set super high to accommodate all the discounts
they give to various insurers.

The chair doesn't get a lot of use so I'll take my chances with the
bushings. If they fail, I'll go to plan B. (-: It looks like I can take a
standard flanged bushing and cut a channel in it with a cut-off tool for the
key. Since the drive force is mostly routed through the keyed slot I
suspect bushing won't take too bad a hit in this instance.

Thanks for your input!

--
Bobby G.

"Sherlock.Homes" wrote in message
...
"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
I've got a scooter that has a 11/16" keyed axle but most replacement
wheels
I can find on Ebay have a 13/16" hole. I seem to recall from machine
shop
in 1969 that a motor shaft can be fitting with a slip-on "collar" (not
sure
of the right word) that would add to the diameter of the shaft/axle and
make
the wheel/pulley with the larger opening fit more snuggly.


http://www.skf.com/us/products/vehic...its/index.html

SH

The adapters are more than I paid for the wheels! Gotta go with something a
little cheaper. Might just try to find some 11/16" ID x 13/16" OD stainless
steel tubing and make my own.

--
Bobby G.

On Thu, 17 Jul 2014 21:32:17 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

wrote in message

But what's wrong with finding the right wheel? The bushings generally
wear quickly when pounded around on a power chair

Wheels. It's cost. I got some new foam filled tires and rims for less than
1/5 the price of just new tires ones on Ebay. Factory original equipment
for these items are outrageously priced because as "durable medical
equipment" the list price is set super high to accommodate all the discounts
they give to various insurers.

The chair doesn't get a lot of use so I'll take my chances with the
bushings. If they fail, I'll go to plan B. (-: It looks like I can take a
standard flanged bushing and cut a channel in it with a cut-off tool for the
key. Since the drive force is mostly routed through the keyed slot I
suspect bushing won't take too bad a hit in this instance.

Thanks for your input!
I've worked on a few where even the original wheels got "hogged out".
The chairs are heavy, and the whole power train is unsprung weight, so
the bumps are taken up by the wheels and axles. I'd be likely to grab
a couple of hubs and bolt on some trailer wheels. Get 3/4" hubs and
bore them to fit broach the keyway, fit it up and then put a couple
tig spots on it for good measure, and bolt on the rims.

Robert Green wrote:
"Sherlock.Homes" wrote in message
...
"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
I've got a scooter that has a 11/16" keyed axle but most
replacement wheels I can find on Ebay have a 13/16" hole. I seem
to recall from machine shop in 1969 that a motor shaft can be
fitting with a slip-on "collar" (not sure of the right word) that
would add to the diameter of the shaft/axle and make the
wheel/pulley with the larger opening fit more snuggly.


http://www.skf.com/us/products/vehic...its/index.html

SH

The adapters are more than I paid for the wheels! Gotta go with
something a little cheaper. Might just try to find some 11/16" ID x
13/16" OD stainless steel tubing and make my own.

Maybe roll up a pair out of .062" stock ? You'll also want to increase the
key height by that same amount , help prevent it from rolling in the keyway
..

--
Snag

On Thu, 17 Jul 2014 21:32:17 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

wrote in message

But what's wrong with finding the right wheel? The bushings generally
wear quickly when pounded around on a power chair

Wheels. It's cost. I got some new foam filled tires and rims for less than
1/5 the price of just new tires ones on Ebay. Factory original equipment
for these items are outrageously priced because as "durable medical
equipment" the list price is set super high to accommodate all the discounts
they give to various insurers.

The chair doesn't get a lot of use so I'll take my chances with the
bushings. If they fail, I'll go to plan B.

Birth control! I don't think that will help in your situation.

If bushing isn't exactly the word you want, call a real machine shop and
ask them. Call 60 to 30 minutes before they close. That's when they
may have finished their work for the day and have time to talk, although
maybe that's more for office people.

(-: It looks like I can take a
standard flanged bushing and cut a channel in it with a cut-off tool for the
key. Since the drive force is mostly routed through the keyed slot I
suspect bushing won't take too bad a hit in this instance.

Thanks for your input!

"Retired" wrote in message

McMaster-Carr might have what you describe, but not in your size.

I've been noticing that all the fixes I've found are for much larger shafts.

Check http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-re...shings/=svqshr

They also have an extensive list of wheels. Take a look for what you need

http://www.mcmaster.com/#wheels/=svqu2i

I'm sort of stuck with what I've got now. )-:

I'm still going to look for the things we used in machine shop way back when
that clipped onto the motor shaft and had a slot for keyways or set screws.

Thanks for your input!

--
Bobby G.

On Friday, July 18, 2014 4:18:28 AM UTC-4, Robert Green wrote:
I'm still going to look for the things we used in machine shop way back when

that clipped onto the motor shaft and had a slot for keyways or set screws.


When I worked in a manufacturing plant, we didn't use keyways to attach gears.

The problem with a keyway is the gear can only go on the shaft in one position. Sometimes that is okay, but sometimes for timing or other purposes you need the gear at some other angle

So we would bore out the gear enough to get a Ringfeder in between shaft and gear.

http://www.ringfeder.com/en/Internat...cts/RINGFEDER/

I don't see why it wouldn't work for a wheel as well. They certainly handled all the torque a gear needed.

wrote in message

stuff snipped

The chair doesn't get a lot of use so I'll take my chances with the
bushings. If they fail, I'll go to plan B. (-: It looks like I can
take a
standard flanged bushing and cut a channel in it with a cut-off tool for
the
key. Since the drive force is mostly routed through the keyed slot I
suspect bushing won't take too bad a hit in this instance.

Thanks for your input!

I've worked on a few where even the original wheels got "hogged out".
The chairs are heavy, and the whole power train is unsprung weight, so
the bumps are taken up by the wheels and axles. I'd be likely to grab
a couple of hubs and bolt on some trailer wheels. Get 3/4" hubs and
bore them to fit broach the keyway, fit it up and then put a couple
tig spots on it for good measure, and bolt on the rims.

Spoken like a man with access to a machine shop! (-: Wish I had access or
even a Unimate mini lathe (which I've wanted since I took my first machine
shop class in 196x.

The wheels are on their way. Once I get them I'll be able to better assess
the situation. Right now I am hoping the seller measured wrong and they fit
perfectly. If not, I'll find bushings somewhere. This is a very lightly
used unit that mostly runs on paved parking lots and building floors when my
knee's too blown out to walk.

If it was an ATV or even a bariatric wheelchair I'd be in 100% agreement
with you. They take a pounding because of rough terrain in the first
instance and substantial weight in the latter case.

I'm assuming "hogged out" means the hub hole gets worn unevenly and
enlarged. Not a term I've heard before.

Thanks for your input!

--
Bobby G.

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

The chair doesn't get a lot of use so I'll take my chances with the
bushings. If they fail, I'll go to plan B.

Birth control! I don't think that will help in your situation.

Arf, arf!

If bushing isn't exactly the word you want, call a real machine shop and
ask them. Call 60 to 30 minutes before they close. That's when they
may have finished their work for the day and have time to talk, although
maybe that's more for office people.

I've gotten some pretty good leads on what I need. Today I found out the
wheels are split-rims. That means I can transfer the tires from the new
(possibly oversize) rims to the old ones without having to torture my
arthritic hands dismounting a tire from the rim. I can remember doing that
with full size tires before I saw how easy it was for a tire shop to do with
their special machine with the rotating bar. I never did it by hand again
after that!

If there's any lesson I learned from AHR and elsewhere it's that the right
tool for the job is VERY important and many times it pays to rent something
(like a ditch witch) rather than spend hours (days, weeks?) fussing with a
post hole digger to run an underground wire.

My Harbor Freight multifunction tool was bought AFTER I stripped about 100
sq ft of glued down linoleum with a hand scraper. Boy was that a lesson in
having the right tool. BTW, today I got a really nice Pittsburgh 25' tape
measure free with coupon. Much better than the crappy flashlight or the
Centek meters that read high, low and who knows?

So any potential solutions will wait until I can inspect the merchandise.
The USPS says "shipping information has been received" - let's see a) when
the seller actually gets it to the post office and b) when it gets here.

Ironically I was concerned about flats. The current tires have tubes and
one has an as-yet unfound slow leak that started this process. I hadn't
needed to use the scooter for a few months and when I rolled it out of the
van, I heard the familiar thwup, thwup of a flat tire. I had to walk on my
very bum knee to the X-ray center.

I decided then that I wanted to have a spare wheel with tire that I could
carry on the scooter. Then I realized with foam filled tires (the new ones)
I don't NEED a spare because they can't go flat. Ah, old age, where
thinking things through becomes more and more challenging. So if the new
rims don't fit, I'll take the old, worn tube tires off and put the new foam
filled tires on the old rims and sell or junk the rims that are coming with
the new tires. All predicated on the tires being dismountable. They could
be glued onto the rims or not fit the old rims. It's always something.

Now the problem shifts to the nose wheel of the scooter which is a different
size and is actually the most likely to get a flat because it's the leading
wheel. I have been wondering if I can fill it with "fix a flat" goo and
turn it into a foam-filled tire.

--
Bobby G.

"TimR" wrote in message news:cacad5ca-c5c5-

stuff snipped

When I worked in a manufacturing plant, we didn't use keyways to attach
gears.

The problem with a keyway is the gear can only go on the shaft in one
position. Sometimes that is okay, but sometimes for timing or other
purposes you need the gear at some other angle

So we would bore out the gear enough to get a Ringfeder in between shaft
and gear.

http://www.ringfeder.com/en/Internat...cts/RINGFEDER/

I don't see why it wouldn't work for a wheel as well. They certainly
handled all the torque a gear needed.

You're another guy with a machine shop! (-: The ringfeder certainly is an
interesting method of power transfer and I can see exactly why some
applications might need it. I suspect in my case the key keeps the wheel
from unscrewing itself - it's only held onto the axle with a single bolt and
lock washer.

My wife has been saying "just call someone who does this sort of stuff" but
I am still at the point where even if I did that, I would want to understand
the dynamics of the problem. Eventually, old age will force me to delegate
this sort of work, but not until they pry it from my gnarled arthritic
hands! (-:

Thanks for your input!

--
Bobby G.

On Fri, 18 Jul 2014 23:33:50 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

The chair doesn't get a lot of use so I'll take my chances with the
bushings. If they fail, I'll go to plan B.

Birth control! I don't think that will help in your situation.

Arf, arf!

If bushing isn't exactly the word you want, call a real machine shop and
ask them. Call 60 to 30 minutes before they close. That's when they
may have finished their work for the day and have time to talk, although
maybe that's more for office people.

I've gotten some pretty good leads on what I need. Today I found out the
wheels are split-rims. That means I can transfer the tires from the new
(possibly oversize) rims to the old ones without having to torture my
arthritic hands dismounting a tire from the rim. I can remember doing that
with full size tires before I saw how easy it was for a tire shop to do with
their special machine with the rotating bar. I never did it by hand again
after that!

Those guys cheat.

In another thread, we talked a little about jackhammers. When I was in
Managua, Nicaragua, in 1971, they were tearing up a sidewalk and using a
a steel rod, maybe 1/2" diam. x 5'. That's all they were using. No
jackhammer, no power at all. I was only inside for 15 minutes. I don't
know how long it took them.

If there's any lesson I learned from AHR and elsewhere it's that the right
tool for the job is VERY important and many times it pays to rent something
(like a ditch witch) rather than spend hours (days, weeks?) fussing with a
post hole digger to run an underground wire.

My Harbor Freight multifunction tool was bought AFTER I stripped about 100
sq ft of glued down linoleum with a hand scraper. Boy was that a lesson in
having the right tool. BTW, today I got a really nice Pittsburgh 25' tape
measure free with coupon. Much better than the crappy flashlight or the
Centek meters that read high, low and who knows?

So any potential solutions will wait until I can inspect the merchandise.
The USPS says "shipping information has been received" - let's see a) when
the seller actually gets it to the post office and b) when it gets here.

I love watching tracking on a package. It's like going to the horse
races, but I always win.

Ironically I was concerned about flats. The current tires have tubes and
one has an as-yet unfound slow leak that started this process. I hadn't
needed to use the scooter for a few months and when I rolled it out of the
van, I heard the familiar thwup, thwup of a flat tire. I had to walk on my
very bum knee to the X-ray center.

I decided then that I wanted to have a spare wheel with tire that I could
carry on the scooter. Then I realized with foam filled tires (the new ones)
I don't NEED a spare because they can't go flat. Ah, old age, where
thinking things through becomes more and more challenging. So if the new

I can see that time approaching. A friend who's only 55 bought a new
house and I reminded her to get one-story. She'd already decided to.

How old are you?

rims don't fit, I'll take the old, worn tube tires off and put the new foam
filled tires on the old rims and sell or junk the rims that are coming with
the new tires. All predicated on the tires being dismountable. They could
be glued onto the rims

I doubt that.

or not fit the old rims. It's always something.

Now the problem shifts to the nose wheel of the scooter which is a different
size and is actually the most likely to get a flat because it's the leading
wheel. I have been wondering if I can fill it with "fix a flat" goo and
turn it into a foam-filled tire.

I don't think so. :-) There's a difference between goo and foam.

I've used fix-a-flat a lot**. Sometimes it only lasts long enough to get
to the service station, which is still a good deal. But other times I
drove on the tire for weeks or maybe months. I hear repairmen don't
like it, because it makes fixing the tire on the inside a mess. I
think the place where I buy tires has a sign warning people not to use
it.

Until about 2 years ago, and for the previous 35 years, I carried 3 cans
of the stuff. One can to use. One can so that when I had used the
first can, I still had a can, and the third can so then when I used the
first can I still had two cans and didn't have to go to the store right
away. Why this sort of logic didn't cause me to carry 4 cans, I don't
quite know. I'd have to think about to remember what I decided 30 years
ago. But I hav so few flats here, I only carry one can now.

I also had a slow leak last year and I used a big can of Green Slime for
that. It made it even slower. I've only needed air one time in 8
months.

I don't think goo or slime work with tube tires. I also don't think
you can have a slow leak if the leak is in the tube (not counting the
valve)

On Fri, 18 Jul 2014 23:15:17 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

wrote in message

stuff snipped

The chair doesn't get a lot of use so I'll take my chances with the
bushings. If they fail, I'll go to plan B. (-: It looks like I can
take a
standard flanged bushing and cut a channel in it with a cut-off tool for
the
key. Since the drive force is mostly routed through the keyed slot I
suspect bushing won't take too bad a hit in this instance.

Thanks for your input!

I've worked on a few where even the original wheels got "hogged out".
The chairs are heavy, and the whole power train is unsprung weight, so
the bumps are taken up by the wheels and axles. I'd be likely to grab
a couple of hubs and bolt on some trailer wheels. Get 3/4" hubs and
bore them to fit broach the keyway, fit it up and then put a couple
tig spots on it for good measure, and bolt on the rims.

Spoken like a man with access to a machine shop! (-: Wish I had access or
even a Unimate mini lathe (which I've wanted since I took my first machine
shop class in 196x.

For most projects the Unimate is too small. I have a Myford Super 7
and it is more often than not too small. and too light for what I'd
LIKE to do. Thankfully a good friend has a 10 inch heavy duty unit
that is available for mr to use when necessary.

The wheels are on their way. Once I get them I'll be able to better assess
the situation. Right now I am hoping the seller measured wrong and they fit
perfectly. If not, I'll find bushings somewhere. This is a very lightly
used unit that mostly runs on paved parking lots and building floors when my
knee's too blown out to walk.

If it was an ATV or even a bariatric wheelchair I'd be in 100% agreement
with you. They take a pounding because of rough terrain in the first
instance and substantial weight in the latter case.

The average chair user is over 200 lbs. So is the average chair
I'm assuming "hogged out" means the hub hole gets worn unevenly and
enlarged. Not a term I've heard before.

You got it. If you are lucky it is only the wheel or hub that wears,
and the axle lives to destroy another wheel. Quite often the keyway
also wears. Then it's time to break out the torch and rebuild it with
brass, and turn it down and re-broach it. Never as good as original,
but usually good for another couple years if done right.

Thanks for your input!

On Fri, 18 Jul 2014 23:33:50 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

The chair doesn't get a lot of use so I'll take my chances with the
bushings. If they fail, I'll go to plan B.

Birth control! I don't think that will help in your situation.

Arf, arf!

If bushing isn't exactly the word you want, call a real machine shop and
ask them. Call 60 to 30 minutes before they close. That's when they
may have finished their work for the day and have time to talk, although
maybe that's more for office people.

I've gotten some pretty good leads on what I need. Today I found out the
wheels are split-rims. That means I can transfer the tires from the new
(possibly oversize) rims to the old ones without having to torture my
arthritic hands dismounting a tire from the rim. I can remember doing that
with full size tires before I saw how easy it was for a tire shop to do with
their special machine with the rotating bar. I never did it by hand again
after that!

If there's any lesson I learned from AHR and elsewhere it's that the right
tool for the job is VERY important and many times it pays to rent something
(like a ditch witch) rather than spend hours (days, weeks?) fussing with a
post hole digger to run an underground wire.

My Harbor Freight multifunction tool was bought AFTER I stripped about 100
sq ft of glued down linoleum with a hand scraper. Boy was that a lesson in
having the right tool. BTW, today I got a really nice Pittsburgh 25' tape
measure free with coupon. Much better than the crappy flashlight or the
Centek meters that read high, low and who knows?

So any potential solutions will wait until I can inspect the merchandise.
The USPS says "shipping information has been received" - let's see a) when
the seller actually gets it to the post office and b) when it gets here.

Ironically I was concerned about flats. The current tires have tubes and
one has an as-yet unfound slow leak that started this process. I hadn't
needed to use the scooter for a few months and when I rolled it out of the
van, I heard the familiar thwup, thwup of a flat tire. I had to walk on my
very bum knee to the X-ray center.

I decided then that I wanted to have a spare wheel with tire that I could
carry on the scooter. Then I realized with foam filled tires (the new ones)
I don't NEED a spare because they can't go flat. Ah, old age, where
thinking things through becomes more and more challenging. So if the new
rims don't fit, I'll take the old, worn tube tires off and put the new foam
filled tires on the old rims and sell or junk the rims that are coming with
the new tires. All predicated on the tires being dismountable. They could
be glued onto the rims or not fit the old rims. It's always something.

Now the problem shifts to the nose wheel of the scooter which is a different
size and is actually the most likely to get a flat because it's the leading
wheel. I have been wondering if I can fill it with "fix a flat" goo and
turn it into a foam-filled tire.
Fill it with urethane insulation foam. The fix-a-flat stuff is
generally less than effective..
Remove the valve stem. blow the tire full of slow expanding foam, and
quickly screw on a METAL valve cap. A plastic one might stay on for a
minute or two. Too little foam and you'l have a flat spot. Too much
and it MIGHT blow the tire off the rim.(or split it)

On Sat, 19 Jul 2014 01:15:37 -0400, micky
wrote:



I don't think goo or slime work with tube tires. I also don't think
you can have a slow leak if the leak is in the tube (not counting the
valve)
I've seen my share of "pourous" inner tubes that passed air right
through the rubber, enough to flatten the tire over a couple months,
but slowly enough that you could never find a leak immersing the tube
in soapy water at low pressure. VERY common problem with cheap
chinese or vietnamese bicycle tire tubes.

On Friday, July 18, 2014 11:39:09 PM UTC-4, Robert Green wrote:
You're another guy with a machine shop! (-: The ringfeder certainly is an

interesting method of power transfer and I can see exactly why some

applications might need it. I suspect in my case the key keeps the wheel

from unscrewing itself - it's only held onto the axle with a single bolt and

lock washer.

Actually I was thinking a ringfeder might be better for a less equipped person because it is self adjusting with only hand tools (hex wrenches) and has a fairly large adjustment range, and holds very securely. It's also easily removable.

What I hadn't thought about was that you'd probably have to bore out the hole in the wheel slightly, and yes that would need a lathe or broach and about five minutes work in a machine shop. Still, it might be worth paying to have that done for a set.

On Sat, 19 Jul 2014 18:23:05 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 19 Jul 2014 01:15:37 -0400, micky
wrote:



I don't think goo or slime work with tube tires. I also don't think
you can have a slow leak if the leak is in the tube (not counting the
valve)
I've seen my share of "pourous" inner tubes that passed air right
through the rubber, enough to flatten the tire over a couple months,
but slowly enough that you could never find a leak immersing the tube
in soapy water at low pressure. VERY common problem with cheap
chinese or vietnamese bicycle tire tubes.

Good to know.

I actually bought, maybe 10 years ago from JCWhitney, a foam "inner
tube". For my exact size tire.

Very hard to put on, but that' s not too surpising. Apparently a bit
too long, because one little bump for every rotation. I hoped that
would go away but rode it last year, same bump. But not flat in 9
years. If it werent' for the bump, I'd look for and buy another one.

On Sat, 19 Jul 2014 18:10:42 -0400, wrote:



You got it. If you are lucky it is only the wheel or hub that wears,
and the axle lives to destroy another wheel. Quite often the keyway
also wears. Then it's time to break out the torch and rebuild it with
brass, and turn it down and re-broach it. Never as good as original,
but usually good for another couple years if done right.

Thanks for your input!

I'm taking the wheels off an unrepairable Black and Decker lawnmower,
and hoped they woudl fit a garbage can whose wheel just broke off, but
the can's axle is small. I haven't tried to do it, or to find a
bushing yet.

On Sat, 19 Jul 2014 23:46:01 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sat, 19 Jul 2014 18:10:42 -0400, wrote:



You got it. If you are lucky it is only the wheel or hub that wears,
and the axle lives to destroy another wheel. Quite often the keyway
also wears. Then it's time to break out the torch and rebuild it with
brass, and turn it down and re-broach it. Never as good as original,
but usually good for another couple years if done right.

Thanks for your input!

I'm taking the wheels off an unrepairable Black and Decker lawnmower,
and hoped they woudl fit a garbage can whose wheel just broke off, but
the can's axle is small. I haven't tried to do it, or to find a
bushing yet.
Often you can find a "stripper bolt" - made for use in dies - that
fits the wheel hole and threads into the smaller hole - likely won't
work for your garbage can. For this low speed low load app, even a
plastic bushing would do the job - particularly in a plastic wheel.

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

I saw how easy it was for a tire shop to do with
their special machine with the rotating bar. I never did it by hand
again
after that!

Those guys cheat.

I remember thinking the last time I pulled a tire from the rim how much
gorillas at the National Zoo love playing with tires and how much easier it
would be to dismount the tire if I had a tame gorilla handy.

In another thread, we talked a little about jackhammers. When I was in
Managua, Nicaragua, in 1971, they were tearing up a sidewalk and using a
a steel rod, maybe 1/2" diam. x 5'. That's all they were using. No
jackhammer, no power at all. I was only inside for 15 minutes. I don't
know how long it took them.

I wonder if we would still be digging if we had to build the Panama Canal
without steam shovels, which IIRC were a "miracle invention" of their era.

So any potential solutions will wait until I can inspect the merchandise.
The USPS says "shipping information has been received" - let's see a)
when
the seller actually gets it to the post office and b) when it gets here.

I love watching tracking on a package. It's like going to the horse
races, but I always win.

It just left JAX FL and will be here tomorrow. Then I will find out if the
axle and hub are incompatible and will proceed accordingly. Clare and
others have convinced me I don't want to try to use rims that have an
oversized hub hole. Nothing good can come of it but plenty of bad things
can. I'm just hoping the seller measured wrong.

Ironically I was concerned about flats. The current tires have tubes and
one has an as-yet unfound slow leak that started this process. I hadn't
needed to use the scooter for a few months and when I rolled it out of
the
van, I heard the familiar thwup, thwup of a flat tire. I had to walk on
my
very bum knee to the X-ray center.

I decided then that I wanted to have a spare wheel with tire that I could
carry on the scooter. Then I realized with foam filled tires (the new
ones)
I don't NEED a spare because they can't go flat. Ah, old age, where
thinking things through becomes more and more challenging. So if the new

I can see that time approaching. A friend who's only 55 bought a new
house and I reminded her to get one-story. She'd already decided to.

How old are you?

Not even as old as you are by a few years, IIRC.

Now the problem shifts to the nose wheel of the scooter which is a
different
size and is actually the most likely to get a flat because it's the
leading
wheel. I have been wondering if I can fill it with "fix a flat" goo and
turn it into a foam-filled tire.

I don't think so. :-) There's a difference between goo and foam.

To connoisseurs, I am sure.

I've used fix-a-flat a lot**. Sometimes it only lasts long enough to get
to the service station, which is still a good deal. But other times I
drove on the tire for weeks or maybe months. I hear repairmen don't
like it, because it makes fixing the tire on the inside a mess. I
think the place where I buy tires has a sign warning people not to use
it.

NTW certainly had and I remember being there when some poor woman was told
she needed a new tire because she had fixed a nearly new tire with FaF.

Until about 2 years ago, and for the previous 35 years, I carried 3 cans
of the stuff. One can to use. One can so that when I had used the
first can, I still had a can, and the third can so then when I used the
first can I still had two cans and didn't have to go to the store right
away. Why this sort of logic didn't cause me to carry 4 cans, I don't
quite know. I'd have to think about to remember what I decided 30 years
ago. But I hav so few flats here, I only carry one can now.

My wife had a can of FaF explode in the trunk. She still carries one but
it's now wrapped inside two plastic bags and slightly worn-out cloth
shopping bag. It makes a hell of a mess. I had a similar disaster with 3M
spray adhesive. Had to scrap a few things that were right near the can when
it blew itself up like a Middle-Eastern terrorist.

I also had a slow leak last year and I used a big can of Green Slime for
that. It made it even slower. I've only needed air one time in 8
months.

There were a lot of stop-gap measures I could have taken but there are no
AAA tow-trucks for disabled scooters so I want to solve this problem as
permanently as possible and foam filled tires seem a good choice. Will they
make the ride so hard that the scooter shakes itself apart? Well, then
there's always Ebay. Scooters are cheap there because they really only
sell, like cars, in a local market. If it died today I got my $175 out of
it. It was almost brand new when I bought it.

I don't think goo or slime work with tube tires. I also don't think
you can have a slow leak if the leak is in the tube (not counting the
valve)

Sure you can. I remember lots of them when I had a bike, sometime in the
middle of the last century. I had a little lit with a cheese-grater type
device to abrade the rubber, a tube of goo and various sized rubber patches.
You just can't test for them without pulling the tube.

The question is do I pay another ten bucks to buy a spare inner tube for the
tires I am dismounting? I think the answer is "no" because I will end up
with two warn but still serviceable tube tires (with one having a slow leak)
if I switch to the foam ones. We'll see tomorrow.

I'm betting a new problem, completely unpredicted, will arise then. I can't
tell you how many times *that* has happened. Bought a toaster oven from
Amazon and the sizes given were wildly incorrect. Wouldn't fit. Thankfully
Amazon makes it cheap and easy to return stuff, especially when it's their
mistake. Ironically, I just checked and two years later, the size is STILL
listed incorrectly. Oh well. They apologize for their mistakes, they just
don't fix them.

--
Bobby G.

wrote in message

stuff snipped

Spoken like a man with access to a machine shop! (-: Wish I had access
or
even a Unimate mini lathe (which I've wanted since I took my first
machine
shop class in 196x.

For most projects the Unimate is too small. I have a Myford Super 7
and it is more often than not too small. and too light for what I'd
LIKE to do. Thankfully a good friend has a 10 inch heavy duty unit
that is available for mr to use when necessary.

I learned on machines that were War Department surplus (and so marked along
with labels like "Loose Lips Sink Ships.") They were huge machines all run
from an overhead drive system with long, long belts in cages that reached up
from the lathes to the ceiling. Made for great entertainment when a belt
broke. We even had turret lathes, hydraulic shapers (a MOST dangerous
machine to let high schoolers near) and a few other exotic machine shop
tools. Almost all my good machine shop stories concern the hydraulic ram of
the shaper and what happened when the cutting head was set too low and
rammed into the work or the vise holding the work. It sounded like Thor
****ted someone with his hammer.

If it was an ATV or even a bariatric wheelchair I'd be in 100% agreement
with you. They take a pounding because of rough terrain in the first
instance and substantial weight in the latter case.

The average chair user is over 200 lbs. So is the average chair

There are wildly different usage patterns though. A bariatric chair has big
dual 80AH batteries and heavy duty motors on each wheel as well as a
reinforced frame. It's meant for severely obese people. I bought one of
those from Ebay but it's just too damn heavy for me to use so it sits in the
basement. I got it VERY cheap because someone connected the new batteries
by twisting the heavy duty wires together and binding them with masking
tape!!!!! The store selling it was only concerned that I sign a receipt
that said "operates smoothly" even though it lurched every time the wires
stopping touching. Its caster wheels are the size of the scooter's drive
wheels.

I'm assuming "hogged out" means the hub hole gets worn unevenly and
enlarged. Not a term I've heard before.

You got it. If you are lucky it is only the wheel or hub that wears,
and the axle lives to destroy another wheel. Quite often the keyway
also wears. Then it's time to break out the torch and rebuild it with
brass, and turn it down and re-broach it. Never as good as original,
but usually good for another couple years if done right.

Very good reasons not to eff around with bushings and other patches. You've
convinced me it's not worth even testing bushings. Let's hope the new tires
come off the oversized hub hole rims or that the guy selling them measured
wrong and they are the right size hub holes to begin with. We'll find out
tomorrow.

--
Bobby G.

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

I'm taking the wheels off an unrepairable Black and Decker lawnmower,
and hoped they woudl fit a garbage can whose wheel just broke off, but
the can's axle is small. I haven't tried to do it, or to find a
bushing yet.

Harbor Freight has a large assortment of wheels (none of them fit my
scooter) that might fit your can. From 5 to 10 bucks.

--
Bobby G.

wrote in message

I've seen my share of "pourous" inner tubes that passed air right
through the rubber, enough to flatten the tire over a couple months,
but slowly enough that you could never find a leak immersing the tube
in soapy water at low pressure. VERY common problem with cheap
chinese or vietnamese bicycle tire tubes.

I guess that clinches my decision not to get a new tube for the bad tire.

--
Bobby G.

wrote in message

stuff snipped

Fill it with urethane insulation foam. The fix-a-flat stuff is
generally less than effective..
Remove the valve stem. blow the tire full of slow expanding foam, and
quickly screw on a METAL valve cap. A plastic one might stay on for a
minute or two. Too little foam and you'l have a flat spot. Too much
and it MIGHT blow the tire off the rim.(or split it)

I might try that on the tube that's got the slow leak or on the nose wheel.

Thanks

--
Bobby G.

On Sun, 20 Jul 2014 13:35:38 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

I'm taking the wheels off an unrepairable Black and Decker lawnmower,
and hoped they woudl fit a garbage can whose wheel just broke off, but
the can's axle is small. I haven't tried to do it, or to find a
bushing yet.

Harbor Freight has a large assortment of wheels (none of them fit my
scooter) that might fit your can. From 5 to 10 bucks.

I'll remember that for something else, but it's too much money for this.
Here the goal is to use the wheels that I'm taking off the lawnmower.

As far as fxing the garbage can, when my trash overflows into it, I just
drag it to the curb on one wheel. (It turns out Baltimore County
discourages the use of garbage cans with wheels because they break. I
guess they break when the garbage man throws the whole thing back on the
ground, which I think is fair. Though for some reaosn for the last
year, they've been putting all the garbage cans upright with their lids
sitting on top. I wonder why. )

But in a week or two I'll post a question about fixing lawnmowers.

On Sun, 20 Jul 2014 13:38:36 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

wrote in message

stuff snipped

Fill it with urethane insulation foam. The fix-a-flat stuff is
generally less than effective..
Remove the valve stem. blow the tire full of slow expanding foam, and
quickly screw on a METAL valve cap. A plastic one might stay on for a
minute or two. Too little foam and you'l have a flat spot. Too much
and it MIGHT blow the tire off the rim.(or split it)

At ACE hardware today. They had green slime filled tubes for lawnmowers
or something with wheels.

I might try that on the tube that's got the slow leak or on the nose wheel.

Thanks

On Sun, 20 Jul 2014 13:11:53 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message

stuff snipped

I saw how easy it was for a tire shop to do with
their special machine with the rotating bar. I never did it by hand
again
after that!

Those guys cheat.

MISSA, START HERE


I remember thinking the last time I pulled a tire from the rim how much
gorillas at the National Zoo love playing with tires and how much easier it
would be to dismount the tire if I had a tame gorilla handy.

I was watching a gorilla on TV, and I noticed that he had a better
manicure than I do.


In another thread, we talked a little about jackhammers. When I was in
Managua, Nicaragua, in 1971, they were tearing up a sidewalk and using a
a steel rod, maybe 1/2" diam. x 5'. That's all they were using. No
jackhammer, no power at all. I was only inside for 15 minutes. I don't
know how long it took them.

I wonder if we would still be digging if we had to build the Panama Canal
without steam shovels, which IIRC were a "miracle invention" of their era.

Missa, continue where it says start here again, but you may find a
little of the middle interesting.

So any potential solutions will wait until I can inspect the merchandise.
The USPS says "shipping information has been received" - let's see a)
when
the seller actually gets it to the post office and b) when it gets here.

I love watching tracking on a package. It's like going to the horse
races, but I always win.

It just left JAX FL and will be here tomorrow. Then I will find out if the
axle and hub are incompatible and will proceed accordingly. Clare and
others have convinced me I don't want to try to use rims that have an
oversized hub hole. Nothing good can come of it but plenty of bad things
can. I'm just hoping the seller measured wrong.

Ironically I was concerned about flats. The current tires have tubes and
one has an as-yet unfound slow leak that started this process. I hadn't
needed to use the scooter for a few months and when I rolled it out of
the
van, I heard the familiar thwup, thwup of a flat tire. I had to walk on
my
very bum knee to the X-ray center.

I decided then that I wanted to have a spare wheel with tire that I could
carry on the scooter. Then I realized with foam filled tires (the new
ones)
I don't NEED a spare because they can't go flat. Ah, old age, where
thinking things through becomes more and more challenging. So if the new

I can see that time approaching. A friend who's only 55 bought a new
house and I reminded her to get one-story. She'd already decided to.

How old are you?

Not even as old as you are by a few years, IIRC.

Oh, that's right we talked aobut this.

Now the problem shifts to the nose wheel of the scooter which is a
different
size and is actually the most likely to get a flat because it's the
leading
wheel. I have been wondering if I can fill it with "fix a flat" goo and
turn it into a foam-filled tire.

MISSA, START HERE AGAIN MAYBE.

I don't think so. :-) There's a difference between goo and foam.

To connoisseurs, I am sure.

BUT SURELY HERE.

I've used fix-a-flat a lot**. Sometimes it only lasts long enough to get
to the service station, which is still a good deal. But other times I
drove on the tire for weeks or maybe months. I hear repairmen don't
like it, because it makes fixing the tire on the inside a mess. I
think the place where I buy tires has a sign warning people not to use
it.

NTW (National Tire Warehouse) certainly had and I remember being there when some poor woman was told
she needed a new tire because she had fixed a nearly new tire with FaF.

She should go to a working class n'hood where they don't play games like
that.

I had the pipe that's part of the catalytic converter, in front of it,
separate. Two or three shops in my n'hood wanted to replace the
converter for hundreds of dollars. I went to a n'hood that's not even
poor, just working class (I hate that use of class, but don't know a
synonym.) The guy at the muffler shop didn't object at all to
repairing it, and he let me watch as he welded a bead 360 degrees around
it, then went back and welded a second bead 360 degrees around it. Did
a very skilled job, a great job. Only wanted maybe 30 dollars. I think
I gave him 40. (No one tips auto repairmen here, afaik, but people do
in NYC, so I do sometimes. Especiallly here. I still saved maybe 260
dollars. That's a lot of money.) And the weld was good until I got
rid of the car.

I told my ex-girlfriend about this. She's a Baltimore native or maybe
she's savvy for other reasons. She told me to go to a shop in a
working class n'hood.

Now Missa can quit when she gets bored, though maybe she won't.

Until about 2 years ago, and for the previous 35 years, I carried 3 cans
of the stuff. One can to use. One can so that when I had used the
first can, I still had a can, and the third can so then when I used the
first can I still had two cans and didn't have to go to the store right
away. Why this sort of logic didn't cause me to carry 4 cans, I don't
quite know. I'd have to think about to remember what I decided 30 years
ago. But I hav so few flats here, I only carry one can now.

My wife had a can of FaF explode in the trunk.

OOOH. What color was the car?

She still carries one but
it's now wrapped inside two plastic bags and slightly worn-out cloth
shopping bag. It makes a hell of a mess. I had a similar disaster with 3M
spray adhesive.

That sounds even worse.

Had to scrap a few things that were right near the can when
it blew itself up like a Middle-Eastern terrorist.

I also had a slow leak last year and I used a big can of Green Slime for
that. It made it even slower. I've only needed air one time in 8
months.

There were a lot of stop-gap measures I could have taken but there are no
AAA tow-trucks for disabled scooters

Hey, that's a need that needs to be filled. Maybe that's how we'll get
rich. Start the ASA.

so I want to solve this problem as
permanently as possible and foam filled tires seem a good choice. Will they
make the ride so hard that the scooter shakes itself apart? Well, then

Bicycle tires are suppopsed to be firm, so maybe this is a bad
comparison. My solid foam bicycle "tube" on the front wheel doesn't
change the ride (except for that bump every rotation, but your foam
won't be solid foam, will it be? I thought it was liquid foam or
something. Anyhow since they're making it all in one location, I'm sure
there won't be a bump. The tire I put the "tube" in was about 20
years old. I found lots of bike tires on the street in NYC --- I don't
know why -- and brought some with me.

there's always Ebay. Scooters are cheap there because they really only
sell, like cars, in a local market. If it died today I got my $175 out of
it. It was almost brand new when I bought it.

The whole scooter was 175!!! That is cheap.

I don't think goo or slime work with tube tires. I also don't think
you can have a slow leak if the leak is in the tube (not counting the
valve)

Sure you can. I remember lots of them when I had a bike, sometime in the
middle of the last century. I had a little lit with a cheese-grater type
device to abrade the rubber, a tube of goo and various sized rubber patches.
You just can't test for them without pulling the tube.

I didn't remember that those could be slow. I stand corrected by you
and Clare.

The question is do I pay another ten bucks to buy a spare inner tube for the
tires I am dismounting? I think the answer is "no" because I will end up
with two warn but still serviceable tube tires (with one having a slow leak)
if I switch to the foam ones. We'll see tomorrow.

I'm betting a new problem, completely unpredicted, will arise then. I can't
tell you how many times *that* has happened. Bought a toaster oven from
Amazon and the sizes given were wildly incorrect. Wouldn't fit. Thankfully
Amazon makes it cheap and easy to return stuff, especially when it's their

Good to know.

mistake. Ironically, I just checked and two years later, the size is STILL
listed incorrectly. Oh well. They apologize for their mistakes, they just
don't fix them.

LOL. Some of the things sold online have dimensions but the dimensions
are of the box! But that wasn't your situation or it would have fit
with ease.

On Mon, 21 Jul 2014 03:53:20 -0400, micky
wrote:

I think the place where I buy tires has a sign warning people not to use it.


NTW (National Tire Warehouse) certainly had and I remember being there when some poor woman was told
she needed a new tire because she had fixed a nearly new tire with FaF.

She should go to a working class n'hood where they don't play games like
that.

Well come to think of it, Dana's Used Tires is in a working class n'hood
and that was the place I refer to at the top here. And they have a
sign I think prohibiting goo. But Dana's is unusual. You can get in,
buy 2 used tires, maybe from a car that was wrecked, get them mounted
and dynamically balanced, pay, and be out in as little as 5 minutes. 15
would be very slow. They don't want to get slowed down by goo.

I had the pipe that's part of the catalytic converter, in front of it,
separate. Two or three shops in my n'hood wanted to replace the
converter for hundreds of dollars. I went to a n'hood that's not even
poor, just working class (I hate that use of class, but don't know a
synonym.) The guy at the muffler shop didn't object at all to
repairing it, and he let me watch as he welded a bead 360 degrees around
it, then went back and welded a second bead 360 degrees around it. Did
a very skilled job, a great job. Only wanted maybe 30 dollars. I think
I gave him 40. (No one tips auto repairmen here, afaik, but people do
in NYC, so I do sometimes. Especiallly here. I still saved maybe 260
dollars. That's a lot of money.) And the weld was good until I got
rid of the car.

I told my ex-girlfriend about this. She's a Baltimore native or maybe
she's savvy for other reasons. She told me to go to a shop in a
working class n'hood.

"micky" wrote in message

I remember thinking the last time I pulled a tire from the rim how much
gorillas at the National Zoo love playing with tires and how much easier
it
would be to dismount the tire if I had a tame gorilla handy.

I was watching a gorilla on TV, and I noticed that he had a better
manicure than I do.

Not something I think I'd admit to. (-:

I knew something unexpected would go wrong with the tires. Aside from the
microwave and the toaster oven dying on the same day, the USPS site says
"Delivered at 9:51AM" but there's no box at any of the doors. I had this
happen once before when they delivered a package to the college kids living
across the street and it just vanished. )-:

--
Bobby G.

"micky" wrote in message

Harbor Freight has a large assortment of wheels (none of them fit my
scooter) that might fit your can. From 5 to 10 bucks.

As far as fxing the garbage can, when my trash overflows into it, I just
drag it to the curb on one wheel.

When that wheel goes, then you have a problem! (-: Can you attach casters
to the bottom of the can? There are always casters to be "repurposed" lying
around in my boxes of spare parts. Got some great, industrial quality ones
at HF for $3. You could make wheels out of 3/4" ply.

(It turns out Baltimore County
discourages the use of garbage cans with wheels because they break. I
guess they break when the garbage man throws the whole thing back on the
ground, which I think is fair.

They even break the huge rolling carts we use tossing them around where i
live. I've learned how to nudge them out of the driveway in the van when
they dump my neighbor's can at the end of my driveway.

But in a week or two I'll post a question about fixing lawnmowers.

How are they spare wheels if you're going to repair the mower?

Got the two wheels. Post Office said about the "delivered" error "sometimes
the system hiccups." How comforting.

They are very much brand new - but the wrong hub size as I suspected. Oh
well, can't have everything. Still much cheaper than just the tires and
inserts alone so now I'll have two nice rims that fit nothing!

Then I saw "tube type" on the tire wall and freaked until I noticed that a)
there wasn't any valve sticking out and b) I could see the foam insert
through the hole in the rim where the stem goes. Now to find the
appropriate socket wrenches and split those rims. I am hoping this is a
simple procedure. I've had tire lug nuts on cars that were apparently put
on by Hercules.

--
Bobby G.

On Mon, 21 Jul 2014 18:25:36 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message

Harbor Freight has a large assortment of wheels (none of them fit my
scooter) that might fit your can. From 5 to 10 bucks.

As far as fxing the garbage can, when my trash overflows into it, I just
drag it to the curb on one wheel.

When that wheel goes, then you have a problem! (-: Can you attach casters
to the bottom of the can? There are always casters to be "repurposed" lying
around in my boxes of spare parts.

I have lots of casters from desk chairs, but that' about all.

Got some great, industrial quality ones
at HF for $3. You could make wheels out of 3/4" ply.

I think to mount screw-mount casters, I'd have to stick my head way down
in the garbage can. Probably smells too bad to do that.

The *goal* is to use the lawnmower wheels. If I can't use them, I'll
keep dragging, but only when the first two garbage cans have filled up.
That's not often.

(It turns out Baltimore County
discourages the use of garbage cans with wheels because they break. I
guess they break when the garbage man throws the whole thing back on the
ground, which I think is fair.

They even break the huge rolling carts we use tossing them around where i
live. I've learned how to nudge them out of the driveway in the van when
they dump my neighbor's can at the end of my driveway.

But in a week or two I'll post a question about fixing lawnmowers.

How are they spare wheels if you're going to repair the mower?

I have 4 lawnmowers,
An electric one that broke in June,

An electric that belongs to a friend's landlady that broke before June,
whose metal cylinder surrounding the motor is crumbling. That's the one
that's scrapped. I got four wheels, the on-off switch with cable. The
bridge rectifier, a big wing nut, motor brushes and the things that hold
them on, (both used in many of their motors)

A gas mower that worked okay before I got the electric, but has suffered
from not being run for 2 years. And won't start.

A "new" electric, which works well.

Got the two wheels. Post Office said about the "delivered" error "sometimes
the system hiccups." How comforting.

That's good. I wonder where they spent the night.

They are very much brand new - but the wrong hub size as I suspected. Oh
well, can't have everything. Still much cheaper than just the tires and
inserts alone so now I'll have two nice rims that fit nothing!

Then I saw "tube type" on the tire wall and freaked until I noticed that a)
there wasn't any valve sticking out and b) I could see the foam insert
through the hole in the rim where the stem goes. Now to find the
appropriate socket wrenches and split those rims. I am hoping this is a
simple procedure. I've had tire lug nuts on cars that were apparently put
on by Hercules.

I'll bet.

"micky" wrote in message
There are always casters to be "repurposed" lying
around in my boxes of spare parts.

I have lots of casters from desk chairs, but that' about all.

Got some great, industrial quality ones
at HF for $3. You could make wheels out of 3/4" ply.

I think to mount screw-mount casters, I'd have to stick my head way down
in the garbage can. Probably smells too bad to do that.

Probably right. Scotch that idea! (Where did that term come from?)

Gotta love the net, asked and answered:

http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-sco2.htm

I can remember a time at college when I would make lists of terms I would
come across when studying to look up later in the engineering library. Now
it's so much easier - although less likely to meet librarians like the very
"hair up in a bun" sssshhing type woman I met that became quite a different
person outside the library. Never judge a book by its cover.

The *goal* is to use the lawnmower wheels. If I can't use them, I'll
keep dragging, but only when the first two garbage cans have filled up.
That's not often.

I have that overflow can! (-: But it's county owned and when they break
it, they replace it (about 3 to 5 years, IIRC). I pay for it indirectly, I
am sure, and at a rate that would astound me if I knew, but I don't.

I am going to have to take pictures of the wheels I am "converting" because
there are remarkable differences between the old and the new ones and I am
not really sure why each wheel was designed the way it was.

How are they spare wheels if you're going to repair the mower?

I have 4 lawnmowers,
An electric one that broke in June,

I should have known. You are a self-confessed trash hound that makes new
faucets appear magically in the weeds. You do know that "I found it in the
weeds" sounds suspiciously like "it fell off a truck" - the Soprano's motto.
g

An electric that belongs to a friend's landlady that broke before June,
whose metal cylinder surrounding the motor is crumbling. That's the one
that's scrapped. I got four wheels, the on-off switch with cable. The
bridge rectifier, a big wing nut, motor brushes and the things that hold
them on, (both used in many of their motors)

With the advent of Arthur(itis) I no longer collect spare parts if they
require significant breakdown. It makes my hands shake like a junkie to toss
something that might have value, though. My 30 year old (exactly, last
month) Litton microwave first started making noise (fan, probably and then
yesterday started emitting *very* stinky magic smoke.

The real test of my resolve to no longer collect things I'll likely never
use will come this week. If I can tote the oven to the curb without
"cracking it" I'll know I am no longer a spare parts junkie. I think it
uses safety screw heads that I might not even have tools for. That would
make scrapping it whole even easier.

My palms are starting to sweat and I am thinking - what if only the fan's
bad? Nope - I paid $79 for it 30 years ago. I got my money's worth. Maybe
it was fixable before the stinky smoke but I suspect it's now degraded a
whole level.

My wife wants it gone because it doesn't clean up well and I repaired the
handle with steel wire and epoxy and it looks it. I like it because it has
a simple spring-wound twist timer that has never failed, a common fault of
modern units.

A gas mower that worked okay before I got the electric, but has suffered
from not being run for 2 years. And won't start.

I wouldn't start either after not running for 2 years.

A "new" electric, which works well.

Before I hired Romero and Pedro to do the lawn for $40 every two weeks, I
used a very nice B&D rechargeable whose battery died. From B&D, $120, from
OEM's, $65 and with two standard 12V 12AH UPS batteries, which I intend to
strap in series, only $44 with batteries that have other uses in the
wintertime and so won't degrade in storage.

Fortunately the two 12/12AH's are almost exactly the same size as the big,
square 12/24AH battery I am replacing with them. The front's small enough
to do when it's cool enough to do it. Had one friend keel over mowing the
lawn in 90F/96%RH weather. That's when I started paying Romero and crew.
Cheaper than heart attack rehab.

It's hard to give up on stuff you've been able to do all your life. It's
even harder to watch someone do it less well than the way you would have
done it but to bite your tongue if you want them to come back.

I've learned not to complain about minor fit and finish issues but to open
my mouth if there's a safety or serious common sense issue. Repairing a cut
through trimmer cord with duct tape was something I didn't complain about
last time but would if it happened again.

Now to find the
appropriate socket wrenches and split those rims. I am hoping this is a
simple procedure. I've had tire lug nuts on cars that were apparently
put
on by Hercules.

I'll bet.

Especially since I can't seem to find my deep sockets and the nuts I need to
loosen (I was going to write for some odd reason "unloosen" which I guess
actually means tighten). The nuts I need to "untighten" are deep inside the
rim where nothing but a socket will fit. Not even sure if my sockets are
metric or even if the nuts are. What I do know is that they are just large
enough to be too large for the biggest socket in my 110 pc socket driver and
bit set.

--
Bobby G.

"micky" wrote in message

I don't think goo or slime work with tube tires. I also don't think
you can have a slow leak if the leak is in the tube (not counting the
valve)

Oddly enough, I finally got the slow leak tube dismounted and before I could
even get it to the tub for a leak check, I notice it oozing green slime from
a tiny hole in the tube on the center of the outermost edge of the tube (the
contact patch) where you would expect a puncture to occur.

The tube expanded to about twice its normal size even with just a few pounds
of air pressure (I don't remember bike tubes doing that and never had a
tube-tired car). I was too afear'd to inflate it further, but there's
clearly green goop in it. Not sure whether to buy a new one or repair this
one or ditch it since I've got foam tires now.

As I was loosening the split rims I noticed that the remaining nuts were
getting harder and harder to remove (I had to hit the wrench with a hammer
to loosen them - no lock washers, either which I thought was odd). Then I
realized "D'oh" it would probably be a good idea to deflate the inner tube
and then I could hear the rubber tire start to detach from the rims. Should
have remembered that about tires. Senility strikes again.

It's a good thing I reflexively mark all pieces with sharpie like this A B
on two mating parts because as soon as they were apart I couldn't remember
which way the three pieces fit together. I took photos but they were
useless because when a surprise part falls out, it's hard to capture it on a
still camera.

Next time I'll just set up the video camera focused on the workbench. The
other day, I took apart a halogen hand-held spotlight and the trigger spring
bounced high in the air and then disappeared in the distance somewhere. I
hate that. Now to dismount the new tires from their non-fitting rims and
transfer them to my old rims, hopefully without incident.

OK - latest incident. Old tires came off old rims pretty easily. New rims
seem to have been hydraulically pressed together and I'll have to build some
sort of circular jig to mount the tire on so I hammer the split rims apart.
I've moved the inner hub about 1/8" from its start position but the hub has
to float free so I can punch it out. Right now, when I hit the hub it's
actually sitting on the metal rim so it goes nowhere. I'm starting to
think - I might just have to fix the tube and forget about these new
heels. )-:

I wonder why they would do this? The whole point of split rims is to make
the tire easier to change but if you have to have a hydraulic press or build
a special platform to separate the two halves, what's the point?

The problem with building a platform with a cutout to hammer the other rim
half through is that that rubber of the tire will be in contact with it,
giving a lot of unwanted bounce to each hammer blow.

I guess it's time to ask Google: "Secrets of splitting a Shoprider tire
rim."

No joy. Led me to the instructions for splitting the old rims with no
hammering or pressing involved. )-: I already knew that.

Just surrendered and sent an email to Shoprider tech support to make sure I
am doing this the right way. The rims have two Allen head setscrews that
look like they might be used to split the rims, but preliminary testing
proved inconclusive because my weak hands couldn't generate a lot of torque
with an Allen wrench aligned so that the long end is parallel to the hole.

It's always something . . .

--
Bobby G.

On Tue, 22 Jul 2014 08:41:41 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"micky" wrote in message
There are always casters to be "repurposed" lying
around in my boxes of spare parts.

I have lots of casters from desk chairs, but that' about all.

Got some great, industrial quality ones
at HF for $3. You could make wheels out of 3/4" ply.

I think to mount screw-mount casters, I'd have to stick my head way down
in the garbage can. Probably smells too bad to do that.

Probably right. Scotch that idea! (Where did that term come from?)

Gotta love the net, asked and answered:

http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-sco2.htm

I can remember a time at college when I would make lists of terms I would
come across when studying to look up later in the engineering library. Now
it's so much easier - although less likely to meet librarians like the very
"hair up in a bun" sssshhing type woman I met that became quite a different
person outside the library. Never judge a book by its cover.

Is this about marryin' the librarian?

The *goal* is to use the lawnmower wheels. If I can't use them, I'll
keep dragging, but only when the first two garbage cans have filled up.
That's not often.

I have that overflow can! (-: But it's county owned and when they break
it, they replace it (about 3 to 5 years, IIRC). I pay for it indirectly, I
am sure, and at a rate that would astound me if I knew, but I don't.

I had an old plastic can with a half dozen vertical slits from the
bottom about 12 inches up, but it still worked. I just didn't put
things in it that could make their way out. But Baltimore County took
it away one day. Now I read in their Trash Guide that if you want a
garbage can, waste basket, or *laundry basket* removed, you have to
write a note specifically telling them to do so. I guess someone else
complained.

I am going to have to take pictures of the wheels I am "converting" because
there are remarkable differences between the old and the new ones and I am
not really sure why each wheel was designed the way it was.

How are they spare wheels if you're going to repair the mower?

I have 4 lawnmowers,
An electric one that broke in June,

I should have known. You are a self-confessed trash hound that makes new
faucets appear magically in the weeds. You do know that "I found it in the
weeds" sounds suspiciously like "it fell off a truck" - the Soprano's motto.
g

No. It was literally in the grass. And the only thing in the grass
too. No trash, no litter. And just what I needed. And not the first
time.

After college when I moved from Chicago to Brooklyn, I had bought 3
bicycles at the police auction, to sell to incoming students at a
profit. Sold 2 but not the last one, which was gold and had
accessories. Left it chained in the basement of my apt for a year, and
came back determined to sell it, which I did, but I removed the
speedometer. Years later I decided to put the speedometer on my
current bike, but the inside of the cable was missing. I couldn't
believe I was that careless, because I knew it had a cable inside the
housing, like bike brakes and gear controls.

A couple months later, I go see my mother in Pa. As she sometimes did,
she gave me a piece of junk hardware, and it was the very cable that
belonged inside the biicycle speedometer. She had found it while
walking across a parking lot in Allentown, Pa. When she bent down to
pick it up, her husband said "What do you want that for? And she said
Micky might want it. I spent years trying to figure out if I had been
in Pa. and lost it there myself, but I drove straight through from Chi.
to NY, with a trailer that I never opened.

An electric that belongs to a friend's landlady that broke before June,
whose metal cylinder surrounding the motor is crumbling. That's the one
that's scrapped. I got four wheels, the on-off switch with cable. The
bridge rectifier, a big wing nut, motor brushes and the things that hold
them on, (both used in many of their motors)

With the advent of Arthur(itis) I no longer collect spare parts if they
require significant breakdown. It makes my hands shake like a junkie to toss
something that might have value, though. My 30 year old (exactly, last
month) Litton microwave first started making noise (fan, probably and then
yesterday started emitting *very* stinky magic smoke.

At least that would be either hard or expensive to fix.

The real test of my resolve to no longer collect things I'll likely never
use will come this week. If I can tote the oven to the curb without
"cracking it" I'll know I am no longer a spare parts junkie. I think it
uses safety screw heads that I might not even have tools for. That would
make scrapping it whole even easier.

Yeah, it will.

I bought a photocopier from work for a dollar, needed a 30 dollar
heater/ixer for the ink, made a couple hundred copies before it broke
again, and when I scrapped it 20 years ago, I saved the rollers, about
the size of baker's rolling pins. They don't fit with anything else I
have stored and I want to throw them away, but ...... the things you'll
never use are the things that would be hard to buy if you needed them.
The things you are likely to use, you can buy if you need one.
..
My palms are starting to sweat and I am thinking - what if only the fan's
bad? Nope - I paid $79 for it 30 years ago. I got my money's worth. Maybe
it was fixable before the stinky smoke but I suspect it's now degraded a
whole level.

Yes, the smell is a bad sign. The lawnmower I junked smelled like
burning something, though I saw no smoke.

My wife wants it gone because it doesn't clean up well and I repaired the
handle with steel wire and epoxy and it looks it. I like it because it has
a simple spring-wound twist timer that has never failed, a common fault of
modern units.

Yeah, yeah. Most timers work. I'll admit the new ones are too
complicated. The one I'm using now, I went to pick up something a
Freecycler was giving me, and in the driveway on its side with the door
open was a microwave. I figured they were thowing it away, so I asked
and she said I could have it. She had melted some plastic in it and
thought it was poisonous to use. She had 3 little kids, and maybe I'd
be ridiculously careful too if I had little kids. I woudl certaainly be
more careful than I am with myself, and there was some "dirt" on the
inside oven walls, so I didn't try to convince her that the microwave
was safe. I dl'd the manual and there are ways to tell it how much the
food weighs and what the food is and it knows how long to cook it, but I
can't remember, and I don't know how much the food weighs. And there's
a popcorn button if you push 1, 2, or 3 times it's for different size
bags!! I knew that for a while, but I've forgotten now.


A gas mower that worked okay before I got the electric, but has suffered
from not being run for 2 years. And won't start.

I wouldn't start either after not running for 2 years.

A "new" electric, which works well.

Before I hired Romero and Pedro to do the lawn for $40 every two weeks, I
used a very nice B&D rechargeable whose battery died. From B&D, $120, from
OEM's, $65 and with two standard 12V 12AH UPS batteries, which I intend to
strap in series, only $44 with batteries that have other uses in the
wintertime and so won't degrade in storage.

Maybe that would have been a good idea. Craig's list had a battery one
for sale, iirc.

Fortunately the two 12/12AH's are almost exactly the same size as the big,
square 12/24AH battery I am replacing with them. The front's small enough
to do when it's cool enough to do it. Had one friend keel over mowing the
lawn in 90F/96%RH weather.

Wow.

That's when I started paying Romero and crew.
Cheaper than heart attack rehab.

It's hard to give up on stuff you've been able to do all your life. It's
even harder to watch someone do it less well than the way you would have
done it but to bite your tongue if you want them to come back.

I've learned not to complain about minor fit and finish issues but to open
my mouth if there's a safety or serious common sense issue. Repairing a cut
through trimmer cord with duct tape was something I didn't complain about
last time but would if it happened again.

Now to find the
appropriate socket wrenches and split those rims. I am hoping this is a
simple procedure. I've had tire lug nuts on cars that were apparently
put
on by Hercules.

I'll bet.

Especially since I can't seem to find my deep sockets and the nuts I need to
loosen (I was going to write for some odd reason "unloosen" which I guess
actually means tighten). The nuts I need to "untighten" are deep inside the
rim where nothing but a socket will fit. Not even sure if my sockets are
metric or even if the nuts are. What I do know is that they are just large
enough to be too large for the biggest socket in my 110 pc socket driver and
bit set.

Didn't something come with the car? Of course I bent my almost
L-shaped jack-handle, lug-wrench by standing on it to get a lug nut off.
Well standing on it worked for a couple nuts, but for the last one I
sort of jumped up and down. I was only 180 then iirc.