I have a utility trailer , 5X8 with an expanded metal deck . This trailer
tilts , as it was designed as primarily an ATV hauler , and the axle is
centered under the box . This causes problems with low tongue weight and
stability at highway speeds when I load the Harley up in it . I want to move
the axle back enough to stabilize it at highway speeds with the weight more
or less centered in the box . I don't care if I lose the tilt feature , I'm
not using it anyway . I prefer 2X lumber ramps .
My question is , how far do I move the axle ? Do I want a 60/40 split on
distance ? 55/45 ? ISTR that the ideal tongue weight is 10% of total weight
, which would indicate 55/45 .
But I'm not sure , and this isn't something I can easily try different
configurations . I'd like to be ready to roll by monday am , the wife and I
have been talking about splitting to the land (Ozarks , wooded , no TV, no
telephone) for a few daze .

For those who care - the welds will be made with the tombstone and 6013
rod . The trailer frame is mild steel angle iron , I see no need for 7018 .
Test coupons of the closest material I have on hand will be welded and
cut/tested before I weld the actual trailer . Hmm , I might be able to add
alternate spring mounts and leave the originals in place . I'd be able to
restore the original config if needed that way .
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

On Thu, 8 Sep 2011 21:08:43 -0500, "Snag" wrote:

I have a utility trailer , 5X8 with an expanded metal deck . This trailer
tilts , as it was designed as primarily an ATV hauler , and the axle is
centered under the box . This causes problems with low tongue weight and
stability at highway speeds when I load the Harley up in it . I want to move
the axle back enough to stabilize it at highway speeds with the weight more
or less centered in the box . I don't care if I lose the tilt feature , I'm
not using it anyway . I prefer 2X lumber ramps .
My question is , how far do I move the axle ? Do I want a 60/40 split on
distance ? 55/45 ? ISTR that the ideal tongue weight is 10% of total weight
, which would indicate 55/45 .
But I'm not sure , and this isn't something I can easily try different
configurations . I'd like to be ready to roll by monday am , the wife and I
have been talking about splitting to the land (Ozarks , wooded , no TV, no
telephone) for a few daze .

For those who care - the welds will be made with the tombstone and 6013
rod . The trailer frame is mild steel angle iron , I see no need for 7018 .
Test coupons of the closest material I have on hand will be welded and
cut/tested before I weld the actual trailer . Hmm , I might be able to add
alternate spring mounts and leave the originals in place . I'd be able to
restore the original config if needed that way .

60/40 should do it.

Ive a similar trailer..and because of the fenders being welded to the
frame and sides..there is no easy way to move the axle back that extra
12-16" and I have to load heavy at the front.

I welded up the tilt features after having the locking pin come
out..fortunately while loaded heavy at the front.

Gunner

--
"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry
capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency.
It will be far easier to limit and undo the follies of an
Obama presidency than to restore the necessary common sense
and good judgment to a depraved electorate willing to have
such a man for their? president.. Blaming the prince of the
fools should not blind anyone to the vast confederacy of
fools that made him their prince".

On Thu, 08 Sep 2011 21:08:43 -0500, Snag wrote:

I have a utility trailer , 5X8 with an expanded metal deck . This
trailer tilts , as it was designed as primarily an ATV hauler , and the
axle is centered under the box . This causes problems with low tongue
weight and stability at highway speeds when I load the Harley up in it .
I want to move the axle back enough to stabilize it at highway speeds
with the weight more or less centered in the box . I don't care if I
lose the tilt feature , I'm not using it anyway . I prefer 2X lumber
ramps .
My question is , how far do I move the axle ? Do I want a 60/40 split
on
distance ? 55/45 ? ISTR that the ideal tongue weight is 10% of total
weight , which would indicate 55/45 .
But I'm not sure , and this isn't something I can easily try different
configurations . I'd like to be ready to roll by monday am , the wife
and I have been talking about splitting to the land (Ozarks , wooded ,
no TV, no telephone) for a few daze .

For those who care - the welds will be made with the tombstone and
6013
rod . The trailer frame is mild steel angle iron , I see no need for
7018 . Test coupons of the closest material I have on hand will be
welded and cut/tested before I weld the actual trailer . Hmm , I might
be able to add alternate spring mounts and leave the originals in place
. I'd be able to restore the original config if needed that way .

You want 60/40, or 55/45 by weight, not length.

I know it'd be a bitch, but I don't know how much -- have you tried just
putting the Harley on backwards and going for a drive? If nothing else,
it'll give you an idea of the weight distribution.

I'd go find a feed store or other operation with a scale, and weigh the
front and back of the bike. This would tell me the weight distribution
of the bike (which should be at least somewhat heavier in back, and lots
more if it has a good amount of rake to it). Then I'd figure out just
where the axle needed to be to get the weights right.

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com

On Sep 9, 12:23*pm, Tim wrote:
On Thu, 08 Sep 2011 21:08:43 -0500, Snag wrote:
I have a utility trailer , 5X8 with an expanded metal deck . This
trailer tilts , as it was designed as primarily an ATV hauler , and the
axle is centered under the box . This causes problems with low tongue
weight and stability at highway speeds when I load the Harley up in it ..
I want to move the axle back enough to stabilize it at highway speeds
with the weight more or less centered in the box . I don't care if I
lose the tilt feature , I'm not using it anyway . I prefer 2X lumber
ramps .
* My question is , how far do I move the axle ? Do I want a 60/40 split
* on
distance ? 55/45 ? ISTR that the ideal tongue weight is 10% of total
weight , which would indicate 55/45 .
* But I'm not sure , and this isn't something I can easily try different
configurations . I'd like to be ready to roll by monday am , the wife
and I have been talking about splitting to the land (Ozarks , wooded ,
no TV, no telephone) for a few daze .

* For those who care - the welds will be made with the tombstone and
* 6013
rod . The trailer frame is mild steel angle iron , I see no need for
7018 . Test coupons of the closest material I have on hand will be
welded and cut/tested before I weld the actual trailer . Hmm , I might
be able to add alternate spring mounts and leave the originals in place
. I'd be able to restore the original config if needed that way .

You want 60/40, or 55/45 by weight, not length.

I know it'd be a bitch, but I don't know how much -- have you tried just
putting the Harley on backwards and going for a drive? *If nothing else,
it'll give you an idea of the weight distribution.

I'd go find a feed store or other operation with a scale, and weigh the
front and back of the bike. *This would tell me the weight distribution
of the bike (which should be at least somewhat heavier in back, and lots
more if it has a good amount of rake to it). *Then I'd figure out just
where the axle needed to be to get the weights right.

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consultingwww.wescottdesign.com

Alternately, cut the front "fence" and lay some U-channel so you can
move the front wheel forward onto the tongue.
Might be easier, and retain the current configuration for other duties.

Rex wrote:
On Sep 9, 12:23 pm, Tim wrote:
On Thu, 08 Sep 2011 21:08:43 -0500, Snag wrote:
I have a utility trailer , 5X8 with an expanded metal deck . This
trailer tilts , as it was designed as primarily an ATV hauler , and
the axle is centered under the box . This causes problems with low
tongue weight and stability at highway speeds when I load the
Harley up in it . I want to move the axle back enough to stabilize
it at highway speeds with the weight more or less centered in the
box . I don't care if I lose the tilt feature , I'm not using it
anyway . I prefer 2X lumber ramps .
My question is , how far do I move the axle ? Do I want a 60/40
split on
distance ? 55/45 ? ISTR that the ideal tongue weight is 10% of total
weight , which would indicate 55/45 .
But I'm not sure , and this isn't something I can easily try
different configurations . I'd like to be ready to roll by monday
am , the wife and I have been talking about splitting to the land
(Ozarks , wooded , no TV, no telephone) for a few daze .

For those who care - the welds will be made with the tombstone and
6013
rod . The trailer frame is mild steel angle iron , I see no need for
7018 . Test coupons of the closest material I have on hand will be
welded and cut/tested before I weld the actual trailer . Hmm , I
might be able to add alternate spring mounts and leave the
originals in place . I'd be able to restore the original config if
needed that way .

You want 60/40, or 55/45 by weight, not length.

I know it'd be a bitch, but I don't know how much -- have you tried
just putting the Harley on backwards and going for a drive? If
nothing else, it'll give you an idea of the weight distribution.

I'd go find a feed store or other operation with a scale, and weigh
the front and back of the bike. This would tell me the weight
distribution of the bike (which should be at least somewhat heavier
in back, and lots more if it has a good amount of rake to it). Then
I'd figure out just where the axle needed to be to get the weights
right.

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consultingwww.wescottdesign.com

Alternately, cut the front "fence" and lay some U-channel so you can
move the front wheel forward onto the tongue.
Might be easier, and retain the current configuration for other
duties.

I was looking it over earlier today with an eye to doing just that .
There's a cross support just behind the axle , right where the axle would
need to be if I moved it . I'll lose the tilt function , but I doubt I'll
ever use it - this trailer was bought for the primary purpose of hauling
bikes .
I'll definitely need to do some bracing to maintain structural integrity
and rigidity across the front . Time to go dig thru my "supply depot" out
behind the shed !
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

On 9/9/2011 5:15 PM, Snag wrote:

I was looking it over earlier today with an eye to doing just that .
There's a cross support just behind the axle , right where the axle would
need to be if I moved it . I'll lose the tilt function , but I doubt I'll
ever use it - this trailer was bought for the primary purpose of hauling
bikes .
I'll definitely need to do some bracing to maintain structural integrity
and rigidity across the front . Time to go dig thru my "supply depot" out
behind the shed !
--
Snag


At least you have a supply depot behind the shed.

I have to BUY scraps for my trailer project!



Richard

On Thu, 8 Sep 2011 21:08:43 -0500, "Snag"
wrote:

I have a utility trailer , 5X8 with an expanded metal deck . This trailer
tilts , as it was designed as primarily an ATV hauler , and the axle is
centered under the box . This causes problems with low tongue weight and
stability at highway speeds when I load the Harley up in it . I want to move
the axle back enough to stabilize it at highway speeds with the weight more
or less centered in the box . I don't care if I lose the tilt feature , I'm
not using it anyway . I prefer 2X lumber ramps .
My question is , how far do I move the axle ? Do I want a 60/40 split on
distance ? 55/45 ? ISTR that the ideal tongue weight is 10% of total weight
, which would indicate 55/45 .
But I'm not sure , and this isn't something I can easily try different
configurations . I'd like to be ready to roll by monday am , the wife and I
have been talking about splitting to the land (Ozarks , wooded , no TV, no
telephone) for a few daze .

For those who care - the welds will be made with the tombstone and 6013
rod . The trailer frame is mild steel angle iron , I see no need for 7018 .
Test coupons of the closest material I have on hand will be welded and
cut/tested before I weld the actual trailer . Hmm , I might be able to add
alternate spring mounts and leave the originals in place . I'd be able to
restore the original config if needed that way .

I'd go for the simple and easy solution. Put the bike on the trailer
and add ballast to the front of the trailer.

Jim Levie wrote:
On Thu, 8 Sep 2011 21:08:43 -0500, "Snag"
wrote:

I have a utility trailer , 5X8 with an expanded metal deck . This
trailer tilts , as it was designed as primarily an ATV hauler , and
the axle is centered under the box . This causes problems with low
tongue weight and stability at highway speeds when I load the Harley
up in it .

I'd go for the simple and easy solution. Put the bike on the trailer
and add ballast to the front of the trailer.

Pretty much what I decided after considering all my options . Big cooler ,
a toolbox , suitcases , etc will be enough to give me 10% tongue load .
I considered notching the top rail to let the bike roll forward some , but
couldn't figger a way to reinforce that area . Major structural integrity
problem , IMO .
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !