My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 14:01:01 -0700 (PDT), mark
wrote:

My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks


I'd go with 2" Sched 80 in a pinch, but IIRC there is a DOM tubing
that fits them exactly. Try metal supermarket. I think it is 2 1/4
inch DOM (1/4 wall).
A lot of these axles have been used un "U" chanel axles too. And in
square tube.
In Sched 80 I'd just put a few "weld blisters" around the shaft to
make them fit snug, and drill a few 1/2" holes through the tube and
plug weld them. In DOM I'd fasten them the same way - at least 4 good
plug welds. Keeps the HAZ away from the end where the axle tube and
stub join.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Apr 3, 6:41*pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 14:01:01 -0700 (PDT), mark
wrote:

My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

I'd go with 2" Sched 80 in a pinch, but IIRC there is a DOM tubing
that fits them exactly. Try metal supermarket. I think it is 2 1/4
inch DOM (1/4 wall).
A lot of these axles have been used un "U" chanel axles too. And in
square tube.
In Sched 80 I'd just put a few "weld blisters" around the shaft to
make them fit snug, and drill a few 1/2" holes through the tube and
plug weld them. In DOM I'd fasten them the same way - at least 4 good
plug welds. Keeps the HAZ away from the end where the axle tube and
stub join.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Only problem with the 2 1/4"DOM is that the spring u-bolts are made to
fit 2 3/8" dia. pipe/tube.

mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

They are for welding onto square tube to make a rocking axle dual
wheel mount, or for a solid set-up, welded to the trailer frame members.
They get used on a lot of farm equipment, too.

Just buy the built axle if you are looking at a standard single wheel
axle design. You can't build a decent safe axle for what they want for
one, unless you have an exceptional scrap pile and the know-how to do it
safely (which, if you are asking....)

Can you jig up the stub axles to keep them in line? Reliably? And weld
them in place accurately?

Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to
spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next try.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

Axles are critical and very inexpensive. Buy a Dexter or some such,
made to your spec, and be happy forever.

i

On 2008-04-04, Trevor Jones wrote:
mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

They are for welding onto square tube to make a rocking axle dual
wheel mount, or for a solid set-up, welded to the trailer frame members.
They get used on a lot of farm equipment, too.

Just buy the built axle if you are looking at a standard single wheel
axle design. You can't build a decent safe axle for what they want for
one, unless you have an exceptional scrap pile and the know-how to do it
safely (which, if you are asking....)

Can you jig up the stub axles to keep them in line? Reliably? And weld
them in place accurately?

Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to
spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next try.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 21:41:23 -0500, Ignoramus18496 wrote:
On 2008-04-04, Trevor Jones wrote:
mark wrote:

My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

They are for welding onto square tube to make a rocking axle dual
wheel mount, or for a solid set-up, welded to the trailer frame members.
They get used on a lot of farm equipment, too.

Just buy the built axle if you are looking at a standard single wheel
axle design. You can't build a decent safe axle for what they want for
one, unless you have an exceptional scrap pile and the know-how to do it
safely (which, if you are asking....)

Can you jig up the stub axles to keep them in line? Reliably? And weld
them in place accurately?

Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to
spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next try.

Axles are critical and very inexpensive. Buy a Dexter or some such,
made to your spec, and be happy forever.

Go get the axle made by Dexter or another axle mfg. company, and it
will come the way you need it, including pre-assembled 7" or 8"
electric brakes and even a set of wheels and tires. The premade axles
include installation kits - all the spring saddles, springs, u-bolts,
shackles, frame saddles and brackets needed to install it safely.

There's way too much fabrication involved, and you have to get ALL
the little details right - or you will deal with failures that could
have multi-fatal consequences.

And fabricating a suspension from scratch is reinventing the wheel
and will cost you dearly in parts and time. The axle company buys all
these pieces in bulk, and you will save in the long run.

The axle tubing has to be the right steel for strength, the welds
holding the spindles on are critical and tricky, and the axle needs a
2 or 3 degree bend in the middle /at an angle/, to provide a bit of
toe-in and camber so it tracks right. They know how much to tweak it,
you would have to experiment till the trailer tracks true.

Save your effort for making the trailer frame and body.

-- Bruce --

On Apr 4, 3:21*am, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 21:41:23 -0500, Ignoramus18496 wrote:
On 2008-04-04, Trevor Jones wrote:
mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

* They are for welding onto square tube to make a rocking axle dual
wheel mount, or for a solid set-up, welded to the trailer frame members..
They get used on a lot of farm equipment, too.

* Just buy the built axle if you are looking at a standard single wheel
axle design. You can't build a decent safe axle for what they want for
one, unless you have an exceptional scrap pile and the know-how to do it
safely (which, if you are asking....)

* Can you jig up the stub axles to keep them in line? Reliably? And weld
them in place accurately?

* Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to
spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next try.

Axles are critical and very inexpensive. Buy a Dexter or some such,
made to your spec, and be happy forever.

* Go get the axle made by Dexter or another axle mfg. company, and it
will come the way you need it, including pre-assembled 7" or 8"
electric brakes and even a set of wheels and tires. *The premade axles
include installation kits - all the spring saddles, springs, u-bolts,
shackles, frame saddles and brackets needed to install it safely.

* There's way too much fabrication involved, and you have to get ALL
the little details right - or you will deal with failures that could
have multi-fatal consequences.

* And fabricating a suspension from scratch is reinventing the wheel
and will cost you dearly in parts and time. *The axle company buys all
these pieces in bulk, and you will save in the long run.

* The axle tubing has to be the right steel for strength, the welds
holding the spindles on are critical and tricky, and the axle needs a
2 or 3 degree bend in the middle /at an angle/, to provide a bit of
toe-in and camber so it tracks right. *They know how much to tweak it,
you would have to experiment till the trailer tracks true.

* Save your effort for making the trailer frame and body.

* * * * -- Bruce --- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So nobody know the answer then.
I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with
the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard
as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I
don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be
on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the
axles to the exact width I want.

On 2008-04-04, Bruce L Bergman wrote:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 21:41:23 -0500, Ignoramus18496 wrote:
Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to
spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next try.

Axles are critical and very inexpensive. Buy a Dexter or some such,
made to your spec, and be happy forever.

Go get the axle made by Dexter or another axle mfg. company, and it
will come the way you need it, including pre-assembled 7" or 8"
electric brakes and even a set of wheels and tires. The premade axles
include installation kits - all the spring saddles, springs, u-bolts,
shackles, frame saddles and brackets needed to install it safely.

That was exactly my experience. New 6,000 lbs axle, new tires, new
electric brakes, new mounting hardware, new springs, made exactly to
my spec, just appx. $600 delivered. It works great and does survive
6,000 lbs of weight, at least it did so the last 2 times I tried (both
times with power supplies that weighed 4,500 lbs each).

Making my own axle? Not for me.

It would have cost me a lot more to make homemade, and I would have
missed some gotcha that would ultimately cost me dearly.

There's way too much fabrication involved, and you have to get ALL
the little details right - or you will deal with failures that could
have multi-fatal consequences.

Yes.

And fabricating a suspension from scratch is reinventing the wheel
and will cost you dearly in parts and time. The axle company buys all
these pieces in bulk, and you will save in the long run.

And they know exactly how to put them together so that the axle does
not fall off if you hit a speedbump.

The axle tubing has to be the right steel for strength, the welds
holding the spindles on are critical and tricky, and the axle needs a
2 or 3 degree bend in the middle /at an angle/, to provide a bit of
toe-in and camber so it tracks right. They know how much to tweak it,
you would have to experiment till the trailer tracks true.

They also heat treat their axles after welding, not something
available to a typical home shop.

The main reason why my trailer works so well for me, is that I started
off with two very well made items, the bed and the axle.

i

mark wrote:


So nobody know the answer then.
I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with
the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard
as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I
don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be
on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the
axles to the exact width I want.

15 thou matters very little. Shims will make no difference once the
unit is welded together.

You plan on cutting the trailer up when you are done with it?

Otherwise, it may well end up on the roads.

Better to have the standardized (and proven) axle.

Fill yer boots.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

"mark" wrote in message
news:8065e1d0-d183-4a4a-9a92-

So nobody know the answer then.
I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with
the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard
as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I
don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be
on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the
axles to the exact width I want.

Ah, ahem, Mark. You failed to mention that in your OP.

It was an interesting thread anyway. Fun to watch all the answers you
got. Unfortunately nobody asked what you were going to do with the axle.
Seems like everybody assumed you were going to put it on the road.

B

Mark, for your situation then, I would use a piece of metal pallet strapping
as a shim, drive the stubs into the pipe, and weld around. Adjust fit as
required in a local area around the shim with a die grinder.

RJ

"mark" wrote in message
...
On Apr 4, 3:21 am, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 21:41:23 -0500, Ignoramus18496 wrote:
On 2008-04-04, Trevor Jones wrote:
mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

They are for welding onto square tube to make a rocking axle dual
wheel mount, or for a solid set-up, welded to the trailer frame
members.
They get used on a lot of farm equipment, too.

Just buy the built axle if you are looking at a standard single wheel
axle design. You can't build a decent safe axle for what they want for
one, unless you have an exceptional scrap pile and the know-how to do
it
safely (which, if you are asking....)

Can you jig up the stub axles to keep them in line? Reliably? And weld
them in place accurately?

Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to
spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next try.

Axles are critical and very inexpensive. Buy a Dexter or some such,
made to your spec, and be happy forever.

Go get the axle made by Dexter or another axle mfg. company, and it
will come the way you need it, including pre-assembled 7" or 8"
electric brakes and even a set of wheels and tires. The premade axles
include installation kits - all the spring saddles, springs, u-bolts,
shackles, frame saddles and brackets needed to install it safely.

There's way too much fabrication involved, and you have to get ALL
the little details right - or you will deal with failures that could
have multi-fatal consequences.

And fabricating a suspension from scratch is reinventing the wheel
and will cost you dearly in parts and time. The axle company buys all
these pieces in bulk, and you will save in the long run.

The axle tubing has to be the right steel for strength, the welds
holding the spindles on are critical and tricky, and the axle needs a
2 or 3 degree bend in the middle /at an angle/, to provide a bit of
toe-in and camber so it tracks right. They know how much to tweak it,
you would have to experiment till the trailer tracks true.

Save your effort for making the trailer frame and body.

-- Bruce --- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So nobody know the answer then.
I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with
the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard
as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I
don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be
on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the
axles to the exact width I want.

On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 15:09:02 -0700 (PDT), mark
wrote:

On Apr 3, 6:41Â*pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 14:01:01 -0700 (PDT), mark
wrote:

My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

I'd go with 2" Sched 80 in a pinch, but IIRC there is a DOM tubing
that fits them exactly. Try metal supermarket. I think it is 2 1/4
inch DOM (1/4 wall).
A lot of these axles have been used un "U" chanel axles too. And in
square tube.
In Sched 80 I'd just put a few "weld blisters" around the shaft to
make them fit snug, and drill a few 1/2" holes through the tube and
plug weld them. In DOM I'd fasten them the same way - at least 4 good
plug welds. Keeps the HAZ away from the end where the axle tube and
stub join.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Only problem with the 2 1/4"DOM is that the spring u-bolts are made to
fit 2 3/8" dia. pipe/tube.
So buy 2.25" U bolts, or reform the 2.1875s to fit

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Fri, 4 Apr 2008 05:16:24 -0700 (PDT), mark
wrote:

On Apr 4, 3:21Â*am, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 21:41:23 -0500, Ignoramus18496 wrote:
On 2008-04-04, Trevor Jones wrote:
mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

Â* They are for welding onto square tube to make a rocking axle dual
wheel mount, or for a solid set-up, welded to the trailer frame members.
They get used on a lot of farm equipment, too.

Â* Just buy the built axle if you are looking at a standard single wheel
axle design. You can't build a decent safe axle for what they want for
one, unless you have an exceptional scrap pile and the know-how to do it
safely (which, if you are asking....)

Â* Can you jig up the stub axles to keep them in line? Reliably? And weld
them in place accurately?

Â* Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to
spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next try.

Axles are critical and very inexpensive. Buy a Dexter or some such,
made to your spec, and be happy forever.

Â* Go get the axle made by Dexter or another axle mfg. company, and it
will come the way you need it, including pre-assembled 7" or 8"
electric brakes and even a set of wheels and tires. Â*The premade axles
include installation kits - all the spring saddles, springs, u-bolts,
shackles, frame saddles and brackets needed to install it safely.

Â* There's way too much fabrication involved, and you have to get ALL
the little details right - or you will deal with failures that could
have multi-fatal consequences.

Â* And fabricating a suspension from scratch is reinventing the wheel
and will cost you dearly in parts and time. Â*The axle company buys all
these pieces in bulk, and you will save in the long run.

Â* The axle tubing has to be the right steel for strength, the welds
holding the spindles on are critical and tricky, and the axle needs a
2 or 3 degree bend in the middle /at an angle/, to provide a bit of
toe-in and camber so it tracks right. Â*They know how much to tweak it,
you would have to experiment till the trailer tracks true.

Â* Save your effort for making the trailer frame and body.

Â* Â* Â* Â* -- Bruce --- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So nobody know the answer then.
I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with
the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard
as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I
don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be
on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the
axles to the exact width I want.

So for YOUR APPLICATION the 0.015" oversize of the Sched80 is not an
issue. Go for it. Just make sure the trailer is never used on a public
road, for liability reasons - when you don't need it any more cut it
up, don't sell it.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Apr 4, 1:21*pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Fri, 4 Apr 2008 05:16:24 -0700 (PDT), mark
wrote:





On Apr 4, 3:21*am, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 21:41:23 -0500, Ignoramus18496 wrote:
On 2008-04-04, Trevor Jones wrote:
mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

* They are for welding onto square tube to make a rocking axle dual
wheel mount, or for a solid set-up, welded to the trailer frame members.
They get used on a lot of farm equipment, too.

* Just buy the built axle if you are looking at a standard single wheel
axle design. You can't build a decent safe axle for what they want for
one, unless you have an exceptional scrap pile and the know-how to do it
safely (which, if you are asking....)

* Can you jig up the stub axles to keep them in line? Reliably? And weld
them in place accurately?

* Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to
spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next try.

Axles are critical and very inexpensive. Buy a Dexter or some such,
made to your spec, and be happy forever.

* Go get the axle made by Dexter or another axle mfg. company, and it
will come the way you need it, including pre-assembled 7" or 8"
electric brakes and even a set of wheels and tires. *The premade axles
include installation kits - all the spring saddles, springs, u-bolts,
shackles, frame saddles and brackets needed to install it safely.

* There's way too much fabrication involved, and you have to get ALL
the little details right - or you will deal with failures that could
have multi-fatal consequences.

* And fabricating a suspension from scratch is reinventing the wheel
and will cost you dearly in parts and time. *The axle company buys all
these pieces in bulk, and you will save in the long run.

* The axle tubing has to be the right steel for strength, the welds
holding the spindles on are critical and tricky, and the axle needs a
2 or 3 degree bend in the middle /at an angle/, to provide a bit of
toe-in and camber so it tracks right. *They know how much to tweak it,
you would have to experiment till the trailer tracks true.

* Save your effort for making the trailer frame and body.

* * * * -- Bruce --- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So nobody know the answer then.
I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with
the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard
as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I
don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be
on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the
axles to the exact width I want.

So for YOUR APPLICATION the 0.015" oversize of the Sched80 is not an
issue. Go for it. Just make sure the trailer is never used on a public
road, for liability reasons - when you don't need it any more cut it
up, don't sell it.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Get this, I phoned the manufacturer directly canadian tool and die
http://www.ctd.mb.ca/index.html and they don't even know the answer.
They just make the spinles, not the entire axles. They said these type
of spindle have been around for a very long time and they are simply
copying them and manufacturing them. They said just to put them in
tubes and weld them. Princess auto is the retailer. After much thought
I am just going to get dodge mini van hubs/spindles from the wrecking
yard and make axles from 3" pipe with 1/2" plate flanges and weld them
directly to the frame $150 bucks all said and done. On a side note I
already built a 3 axle trailer this way and and haul my 8000lbs
tractor on it for 4 year now with no problems. I always drill and tap
the hubs in between the bearings for grease fittings and keep them
nicely greased. Thanks to all

If the axle does not have to be tremendously strong, just use the rear axle
out of a front wheel drive car. Some models would make great light trailer
axles, and they're all but ready to use.

RJ

"mark" wrote in message
...
On Apr 4, 1:21 pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Fri, 4 Apr 2008 05:16:24 -0700 (PDT), mark
wrote:





On Apr 4, 3:21 am, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 21:41:23 -0500, Ignoramus18496 wrote:
On 2008-04-04, Trevor Jones wrote:
mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you
can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some
type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt
spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe
maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play
too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

They are for welding onto square tube to make a rocking axle dual
wheel mount, or for a solid set-up, welded to the trailer frame
members.
They get used on a lot of farm equipment, too.

Just buy the built axle if you are looking at a standard single
wheel
axle design. You can't build a decent safe axle for what they want
for
one, unless you have an exceptional scrap pile and the know-how to
do it
safely (which, if you are asking....)

Can you jig up the stub axles to keep them in line? Reliably? And
weld
them in place accurately?

Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to
spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next
try.

Axles are critical and very inexpensive. Buy a Dexter or some such,
made to your spec, and be happy forever.

Go get the axle made by Dexter or another axle mfg. company, and it
will come the way you need it, including pre-assembled 7" or 8"
electric brakes and even a set of wheels and tires. The premade axles
include installation kits - all the spring saddles, springs, u-bolts,
shackles, frame saddles and brackets needed to install it safely.

There's way too much fabrication involved, and you have to get ALL
the little details right - or you will deal with failures that could
have multi-fatal consequences.

And fabricating a suspension from scratch is reinventing the wheel
and will cost you dearly in parts and time. The axle company buys all
these pieces in bulk, and you will save in the long run.

The axle tubing has to be the right steel for strength, the welds
holding the spindles on are critical and tricky, and the axle needs a
2 or 3 degree bend in the middle /at an angle/, to provide a bit of
toe-in and camber so it tracks right. They know how much to tweak it,
you would have to experiment till the trailer tracks true.

Save your effort for making the trailer frame and body.

-- Bruce --- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So nobody know the answer then.
I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with
the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard
as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I
don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be
on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the
axles to the exact width I want.

So for YOUR APPLICATION the 0.015" oversize of the Sched80 is not an
issue. Go for it. Just make sure the trailer is never used on a public
road, for liability reasons - when you don't need it any more cut it
up, don't sell it.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Get this, I phoned the manufacturer directly canadian tool and die
http://www.ctd.mb.ca/index.html and they don't even know the answer.
They just make the spinles, not the entire axles. They said these type
of spindle have been around for a very long time and they are simply
copying them and manufacturing them. They said just to put them in
tubes and weld them. Princess auto is the retailer. After much thought
I am just going to get dodge mini van hubs/spindles from the wrecking
yard and make axles from 3" pipe with 1/2" plate flanges and weld them
directly to the frame $150 bucks all said and done. On a side note I
already built a 3 axle trailer this way and and haul my 8000lbs
tractor on it for 4 year now with no problems. I always drill and tap
the hubs in between the bearings for grease fittings and keep them
nicely greased. Thanks to all

On Apr 5, 1:44*pm, Ronald Thompson
wrote:
clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:



On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 15:09:02 -0700 (PDT), mark
wrote:

On Apr 3, 6:41 pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 14:01:01 -0700 (PDT), mark
wrote:

My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks
I'd go with 2" Sched 80 in a pinch, but IIRC there is a DOM tubing
that fits them exactly. Try metal supermarket. I think it is 2 1/4
inch DOM (1/4 wall).
A lot of these axles have been used un "U" chanel axles too. And in
square tube.
In Sched 80 I'd just put a few "weld blisters" around the shaft to
make them fit snug, and drill a few 1/2" holes through the tube and
plug weld them. In DOM I'd fasten them the same way - at least 4 good
plug welds. Keeps the HAZ away from the end where the axle tube and
stub join.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
Only problem with the 2 1/4"DOM is that the spring u-bolts are made to
fit 2 3/8" dia. pipe/tube.
*So buy *2.25" U bolts, or reform the 2.1875s to fit

Hmmm...
Wouldn't 2" id 1/4" wall pipe be 2.5" in diameter?

--

Ron Thompson
Riding my '07 XL883C Sportster
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast,
right beside the Kennedy Space Center,
USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com
My hobby pages are hehttp://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:http://castinghobbywiki.plansandprojects.com/

The member map is hehttp://www.frappr.com/castinghobby

This ain't football, you can't just sit in a computer chair and memorize
facts.
-Ron Thompson- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What are you commenting on? I am the original poster and I was looking
for 1 3/4"id heavy walled pipe/tubing, the closest I could find was
2"sch 80 pipe which is 1.90"id and 2.375"od.

What is DOM?

The OP was looking at the usual pipe size tables. Typical one looks like:
http://www.intercononline.com/welding/schedule.htm
Schedule 40 pipe is designed to have an ID very slightly larger than the
nominal pipe size. So 2" schedule 40 is 2.067". Schedule 80 was a
"extra heavy wall" pipe, uses the same fittings (OD related), sothe ID
is well under 2"


Ronald Thompson wrote:
clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 15:09:02 -0700 (PDT), mark
wrote:

On Apr 3, 6:41 pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 14:01:01 -0700 (PDT), mark
wrote:

My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks
I'd go with 2" Sched 80 in a pinch, but IIRC there is a DOM tubing
that fits them exactly. Try metal supermarket. I think it is 2 1/4
inch DOM (1/4 wall).
A lot of these axles have been used un "U" chanel axles too. And in
square tube.
In Sched 80 I'd just put a few "weld blisters" around the shaft to
make them fit snug, and drill a few 1/2" holes through the tube and
plug weld them. In DOM I'd fasten them the same way - at least 4 good
plug welds. Keeps the HAZ away from the end where the axle tube and
stub join.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
Only problem with the 2 1/4"DOM is that the spring u-bolts are made to
fit 2 3/8" dia. pipe/tube.
So buy 2.25" U bolts, or reform the 2.1875s to fit

Hmmm...
Wouldn't 2" id 1/4" wall pipe be 2.5" in diameter?

I was watching the other replies, no one seemed to pick up on the fact
that you misstated the the difference in sizes. The schedule 80 is
indeed 1.90" but the axle stub is 1.750" or .150" smaller (10x larger
play than the .015" listed in your post). That will indeed require some
sort of shimming or massive plug welds to accommodate the misfit.

mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 02:40:08 GMT, Dan@ (Dan ) wrote:

What is DOM?

Drawn Over Mandrel.

All pipe and steel tubing is made from strip stock that is folded
into a tube and the seam is butt welded. The mandrel drawing process
smooths out the welding seam left on the inside of the pipe for extra
strength, and makes sure there are no burrs on the inside of the
tubing.

For electrical conduit burrs on the inside are very bad, they cut
the wire insulation and cause shorts. For telescoping tubing internal
seams are bad, because they block you from sliding the next smaller
tubing inside that one.

-- Bruce --

On Apr 5, 11:55*pm, RoyJ wrote:
I was watching the other replies, no one seemed to pick up on the fact
that you misstated the the difference in sizes. The schedule 80 is
indeed 1.90" but the axle stub is 1.750" or .150" smaller (10x larger
play than the .015" listed in your post). That will indeed require some
sort of shimming or massive plug welds to accommodate the misfit.



mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

14 gauge sheet metal rolled up as a shim would work nicely then, it is
0.074". Doesn't this whole thing not make any sense. Why don't they
make the spindles to fit commonly available pipe or tubing.

On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 02:40:08 GMT, Dan@ (Dan ) wrote:

What is DOM?
Drawn ove mandrel.
It is electrically welded tubing that "thinks" it is seamless.
Perfectly round bore with no weld bead - also known as structural
tubing - in contrast to Sched 80 PIPE which has a discernable welded
seam and is only "nominally" sized.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Does this mean there is no such thing as seamless pipe?


On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 17:22:46 -0400, clare at snyder dot ontario dot
canada wrote:

On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 02:40:08 GMT, Dan@ (Dan ) wrote:

What is DOM?
Drawn ove mandrel.
It is electrically welded tubing that "thinks" it is seamless.
Perfectly round bore with no weld bead - also known as structural
tubing - in contrast to Sched 80 PIPE which has a discernable welded
seam and is only "nominally" sized.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 23:51:58 GMT, Dan@ (Dan ) wrote:

Does this mean there is no such thing as seamless pipe?

No, there IS such a thing as seamless pipe, but it ain't cheap - and
structural tubing is more likely to be DOM

Seamless (SMLS) Steel Pipe is made from a solid round steel €˜billet
which is heated and pushed or pulled over a form until the steel is
shaped into a hollow tube. The seamless pipe is then finished to
dimensional and wall thickness specifications in sizes from 1/8 inch
to 26 inch OD.

a seamless PIPE is manufactured, for example, from a billet of steel
about 10 inches in diameter and 6 to 8 feet long. After heating to
over 1000 degrees C., a hole is pierced through the center to form a
very thick-walled tube. Hot rolling and cold drawing then
progressively reduces the wall thickness and diameter of this tube
until it is sized for the particular end purpose. Seamless is a costly
method of manufacture; restricted both in size of outside diameter and
in length.


Generally used as boiler tubing.



On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 17:22:46 -0400, clare at snyder dot ontario dot
canada wrote:

On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 02:40:08 GMT, Dan@ (Dan ) wrote:

What is DOM?
Drawn ove mandrel.
It is electrically welded tubing that "thinks" it is seamless.
Perfectly round bore with no weld bead - also known as structural
tubing - in contrast to Sched 80 PIPE which has a discernable welded
seam and is only "nominally" sized.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 21:28:38 -0400, clare at snyder dot ontario dot
canada wrote:
On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 23:51:58 GMT, Dan@ (Dan ) wrote:

Does this mean there is no such thing as seamless pipe?

No, there IS such a thing as seamless pipe, but it ain't cheap - and
structural tubing is more likely to be DOM

Seamless (SMLS) Steel Pipe is made from a solid round steel ‘billet’
which is heated and pushed or pulled over a form until the steel is
shaped into a hollow tube. The seamless pipe is then finished to
dimensional and wall thickness specifications in sizes from 1/8 inch
to 26 inch OD.

a seamless PIPE is manufactured, for example, from a billet of steel
about 10 inches in diameter and 6 to 8 feet long. After heating to
over 1000 degrees C., a hole is pierced through the center to form a
very thick-walled tube. Hot rolling and cold drawing then
progressively reduces the wall thickness and diameter of this tube
until it is sized for the particular end purpose. Seamless is a costly
method of manufacture; restricted both in size of outside diameter and
in length.

Generally used as boiler tubing.

And no doubt other critical stuff like piping high-pressure
hydraulic systems, high pressure refrigerant to water condensers (dump
the heat to a cooling tower) or evaporators (process water chillers)
or life safety uses like cylinder gases.

If you don't need it, don't specify it - or you have to pay.

-- Bruce --

They use 1-3/4" stock because it is the smallest (read cheapest material
cost) that will turn down to fit the 1.71 grease seal and bearing sizes
that is standard on heavier duty hubs.

If I were in the business of manufacturing axles, I'd have my supplier
turn the spindles to give a tight fit on the axle tubes I needed for
strength and cost. That might not be 1-3/4" raw stock.

mark wrote:
On Apr 5, 11:55 pm, RoyJ wrote:
I was watching the other replies, no one seemed to pick up on the fact
that you misstated the the difference in sizes. The schedule 80 is
indeed 1.90" but the axle stub is 1.750" or .150" smaller (10x larger
play than the .015" listed in your post). That will indeed require some
sort of shimming or massive plug welds to accommodate the misfit.



mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -

14 gauge sheet metal rolled up as a shim would work nicely then, it is
0.074". Doesn't this whole thing not make any sense. Why don't they
make the spindles to fit commonly available pipe or tubing.

On Apr 4, 6:16*am, mark wrote:
On Apr 4, 3:21*am, Bruce L. Bergman





wrote:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 21:41:23 -0500, Ignoramus18496 wrote:
On 2008-04-04, Trevor Jones wrote:
mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

* They are for welding onto square tube to make a rocking axle dual
wheel mount, or for a solid set-up, welded to the trailer frame members.
They get used on a lot of farm equipment, too.

* Just buy the built axle if you are looking at a standard single wheel
axle design. You can't build a decent safe axle for what they want for
one, unless you have an exceptional scrap pile and the know-how to do it
safely (which, if you are asking....)

* Can you jig up the stub axles to keep them in line? Reliably? And weld
them in place accurately?

* Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to
spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next try..

Axles are critical and very inexpensive. Buy a Dexter or some such,
made to your spec, and be happy forever.

* Go get the axle made by Dexter or another axle mfg. company, and it
will come the way you need it, including pre-assembled 7" or 8"
electric brakes and even a set of wheels and tires. *The premade axles
include installation kits - all the spring saddles, springs, u-bolts,
shackles, frame saddles and brackets needed to install it safely.

* There's way too much fabrication involved, and you have to get ALL
the little details right - or you will deal with failures that could
have multi-fatal consequences.

* And fabricating a suspension from scratch is reinventing the wheel
and will cost you dearly in parts and time. *The axle company buys all
these pieces in bulk, and you will save in the long run.

* The axle tubing has to be the right steel for strength, the welds
holding the spindles on are critical and tricky, and the axle needs a
2 or 3 degree bend in the middle /at an angle/, to provide a bit of
toe-in and camber so it tracks right. *They know how much to tweak it,
you would have to experiment till the trailer tracks true.

* Save your effort for making the trailer frame and body.

* * * * -- Bruce --- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So nobody know the answer then.
I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with
the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard
as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I
don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be
on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the
axles to the exact width I want.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

LOL...another "smart" guy.

And when the day comes that you or your estate sells your
trailer...will you be willing to accept the liability if the buyer or
driving public is harmed by your POS when it self destructs?

Lawyers love guys like you....and make alot of money off you.

Buy the axle.

TMT

On Apr 4, 7:05*am, "Bernie" wrote:
"mark" wrote in message

news:8065e1d0-d183-4a4a-9a92-

So nobody know the answer then.
I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with
the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard
as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I
don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be
on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the
axles to the exact width I want.

Ah, ahem, Mark. You failed to mention that in your OP.

It was an interesting thread anyway. Fun to watch all the answers you
got. Unfortunately nobody asked what you were going to do with the axle.
Seems like everybody assumed you were going to put it on the road.

B

Any trailer sooner or later goes on the road.

TMT

On Tue, 8 Apr 2008 18:38:31 -0700 (PDT), Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

On Apr 4, 6:16Â*am, mark wrote:
On Apr 4, 3:21Â*am, Bruce L. Bergman





wrote:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 21:41:23 -0500, Ignoramus18496 wrote:
On 2008-04-04, Trevor Jones wrote:
mark wrote:
My local trailer building supply house has "high speed stub axle
assemblies" with a stub 4"long and 1/3/4"in diameter made so you can
build your own axles. I assume they are designed to go into some type
of pipe or tubing and welded in place but what kind. The u bolt spring
hangers they sell are for 2 3/8"dia . This leads me to believe maybe
2"schedule 80 pipe which is 2 3/8"OD but 1.90"ID. Is 0.015" play too
much, should they be wrapped with shimstock? There is 2 3/8"tubing
available but the ID is 1.749" so they won't fit that. The seller
(princess auto) has no idea either. Thanks

Â* They are for welding onto square tube to make a rocking axle dual
wheel mount, or for a solid set-up, welded to the trailer frame members.
They get used on a lot of farm equipment, too.

Â* Just buy the built axle if you are looking at a standard single wheel
axle design. You can't build a decent safe axle for what they want for
one, unless you have an exceptional scrap pile and the know-how to do it
safely (which, if you are asking....)

Â* Can you jig up the stub axles to keep them in line? Reliably? And weld
them in place accurately?

Â* Just askin'. Better to realistically assess the chances now, than to
spend a bunch of money, then have to do it all again for the next try.

Axles are critical and very inexpensive. Buy a Dexter or some such,
made to your spec, and be happy forever.

Â* Go get the axle made by Dexter or another axle mfg. company, and it
will come the way you need it, including pre-assembled 7" or 8"
electric brakes and even a set of wheels and tires. Â*The premade axles
include installation kits - all the spring saddles, springs, u-bolts,
shackles, frame saddles and brackets needed to install it safely.

Â* There's way too much fabrication involved, and you have to get ALL
the little details right - or you will deal with failures that could
have multi-fatal consequences.

Â* And fabricating a suspension from scratch is reinventing the wheel
and will cost you dearly in parts and time. Â*The axle company buys all
these pieces in bulk, and you will save in the long run.

Â* The axle tubing has to be the right steel for strength, the welds
holding the spindles on are critical and tricky, and the axle needs a
2 or 3 degree bend in the middle /at an angle/, to provide a bit of
toe-in and camber so it tracks right. Â*They know how much to tweak it,
you would have to experiment till the trailer tracks true.

Â* Save your effort for making the trailer frame and body.

Â* Â* Â* Â* -- Bruce --- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So nobody know the answer then.
I like how you all give advise but have no idea what I am doing with
the axles. I am building a boat trailer that will never leave my yard
as I live on the water and have my own launch, I don't want brakes, I
don't want suspension. Toe in/out etc doesn't matter, it will never be
on pavement. These spindle are on sale right now and I can build the
axles to the exact width I want.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

LOL...another "smart" guy.

And when the day comes that you or your estate sells your
trailer...will you be willing to accept the liability if the buyer or
driving public is harmed by your POS when it self destructs?

Lawyers love guys like you....and make alot of money off you.

Buy the axle.

TMT

Everybody talks about home built trailers self destructing.
I've seen more factory built crap fail than the usually overbuilt
home-made trailers.
The home-made trailer might eat tires at a phenominal rate - but
generally what I see is a lot better than the wall-mart / northern
tool / home depot crap.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

And when the day comes that you or your estate sells your
trailer...will you be willing to accept the liability if the buyer or
driving public is harmed by your POS when it self destructs?

If there is his estate, then he is dead, how can he have liability?

i