I'd suggested previously that maybe there is enough room so you could
put a reducing bushing in the T, then go to a new P trap with a slip
joint so that it can properly align. The way this thing was done, it
depends on the length of that nipple, how far it goes in when
tightened up to get a vertical alignment with the sink tailpiece.

I must have missed your earlier post, but your suggestion is a good option.
That would give a little bit of horizontal adjustment for aligning the P-
Trap.

Of course, if NYC doesn't allow plastic pipe as Novel thinks, that may not
be an option.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

Novel,

I was checking for P traps and came across this in Home
Depot. Ever heard of this and at such a low price?
http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Nov...Ptrap.jpg.html

I can't really tell much from that tiny picture, but it doesn't look like
any P-trap I've ever seen. Regardless, standard plastic P-Traps are
usually less than $5, not a big expense.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Nov..._0172.jpg.html

What he needs is a proper plumber to replace the whole messed up
abortion of a drain system he has there. The T-Y into the drain is
installed upside-down, for starters. I've not seen a galvanized drain
system in over 40 years - And the tailpiece into the trap doesn't line
up straight - so the nipple, if he was going to just replace it, needs
to be about half an inch longer. Removing the broken nipple from the
fitting without breaking the pipe above or below is a crap-shoot at
best.

I agree. Novel admits to not being familiar with plumbing work, so it would
be wise to have a real plumber come in and update things.

Several years ago my in-laws asked me to fix their leaky kitchen faucet.
The spout corroded and broke off so I had to track down a new faucet. While
trying to remove the faucet, the old galvanized fittings broke. When I
tried to replace the fittings, the next section of galvanized pipe split
lengthwise. By the time I got back to a usable fitting, I was about 20 feet
from the faucet where I started. I went ahead and replaced the entire
plumbing system with new plastic pipe.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On 6/22/2014 2:17 AM, HerHusband wrote:


As far as I know, PVC and ABS are standard in the national plumbing codes.
Of course, it's entirely possible you have a local code that supercedes the
national code. If that's the case, you would probably have to go with
galvanized again. Here in Washington state, I don't think I've ever even
seen a galvanized P-trap.


I've not kept up, but many big cities with strong unions don't follow
the national codes. Philadelphia used to insist on copper for water
pipes, Chicago used to insist on conduit, not Romex for wiring. Things
may have changed, but they kept the union members entrenched for a long
time after the rest of the country modernized.

On Sunday, June 22, 2014 9:35:10 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 6/22/2014 2:17 AM, HerHusband wrote:





As far as I know, PVC and ABS are standard in the national plumbing codes.

Of course, it's entirely possible you have a local code that supercedes the

national code. If that's the case, you would probably have to go with

galvanized again. Here in Washington state, I don't think I've ever even

seen a galvanized P-trap.





I've not kept up, but many big cities with strong unions don't follow

the national codes. Philadelphia used to insist on copper for water

pipes, Chicago used to insist on conduit, not Romex for wiring. Things

may have changed, but they kept the union members entrenched for a long

time after the rest of the country modernized.

Googling, apparently nyc changed a few years ago. Looks like
PVC is allowed for residential, 5 stories or less. OP could check,
to be sure, if they really care for just a trap.

On Sun, 22 Jun 2014 06:22:10 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

Of course, if NYC doesn't allow plastic pipe as Novel thinks, that may not
be an option.

I know what I would do

"... it is easier to ask for forgiveness than to ask for permission!"

On Sat, 21 Jun 2014 17:39:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

That's probably because it's just a close nipple. Nipples don't
come in any size you want.

I love all this nipple talk. Variety is the spice of life.

On 6/21/2014 7:39 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, June 21, 2014 8:21:46 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jun 2014 06:27:22 -0700, "Pico Rico"

wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 20, 2014 11:47:58 PM UTC-4, HerHusband wrote:
....

system in over 40 years - And the tailpiece into the trap doesn't line
up straight - so the nipple, if he was going to just replace it, needs
to be about half an inch longer.

That's probably because it's just a close nipple. Nipples don't
come in any size you want. ...

It would appear it's a half-inch short because OP said in original post,
the portion of the threads twisted off when the fella' took the trap off...

One can always make one whatever length required altho again as another
said the simpler solution for the drain would be to go to the standard
slip joint.

--

On Sunday, June 22, 2014 1:39:14 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/21/2014 7:39 PM, trader_4 wrote:

On Saturday, June 21, 2014 8:21:46 PM UTC-4, wrote:

On Sat, 21 Jun 2014 06:27:22 -0700, "Pico Rico"



wrote:

wrote in message

...

On Friday, June 20, 2014 11:47:58 PM UTC-4, HerHusband wrote:

...



system in over 40 years - And the tailpiece into the trap doesn't line

up straight - so the nipple, if he was going to just replace it, needs

to be about half an inch longer.



That's probably because it's just a close nipple. Nipples don't

come in any size you want. ...



It would appear it's a half-inch short because OP said in original post,

the portion of the threads twisted off when the fella' took the trap off...



One can always make one whatever length required altho again as another

said the simpler solution for the drain would be to go to the standard

slip joint.


But.... What we don't know is if the original length was a standard
close nipple or a length cut to make it fit. If it's standard, they
got mighty lucky..... That sucker has to be pretty close to the right
size to get the tailpiece vertical.

On 6/22/2014 12:51 PM, trader_4 wrote:
....

But.... What we don't know is if the original length was a standard
close nipple or a length cut to make it fit. If it's standard, they
got mighty lucky..... That sucker has to be pretty close to the right
size to get the tailpiece vertical.

Of course it does (have to be the right length, that is), but given a
union plumber in NYC in the 40s or 50s, what's to think he didn't have
the whole shop set up at the time and did it all onsite? I'm guessing
altho afair OP hasn't said that this must be a multi-story brownstone or
something similar -- otherwise the stack pipe would likely not be 3",
either if were single-family dwelling.

The curious thing is how it's assembled from the sink to manage to get
the tailpiece into the trap...there's got to be a slip joint there or
it'll be a real trick...

But, I'm presuming the guy who did it can measure...it would surely have
been nice if our OP had put a ruler or some other fixed-size object in
there when took the picture...

--

On Sunday, June 22, 2014 2:34:00 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/22/2014 12:51 PM, trader_4 wrote:

...



But.... What we don't know is if the original length was a standard

close nipple or a length cut to make it fit. If it's standard, they

got mighty lucky..... That sucker has to be pretty close to the right

size to get the tailpiece vertical.



Of course it does (have to be the right length, that is), but given a

union plumber in NYC in the 40s or 50s, what's to think he didn't have

the whole shop set up at the time and did it all onsite?

I agree. It's precisely my point. If it's not a standard length
nipple, buying one isn't going to work. And I wouldn't trust
the drain guy to have measured it correctly. Folks here are
assuming the reason it's not vertical is because some of the threads
on the end broke off. But these fittings are tapered. I think
you could take 1/2" off the end and it still would tighten up to
about the same length, no? Meaning it may never have been the
right length to begin with.



I'm guessing

altho afair OP hasn't said that this must be a multi-story brownstone or

something similar -- otherwise the stack pipe would likely not be 3",

either if were single-family dwelling.



The curious thing is how it's assembled from the sink to manage to get

the tailpiece into the trap...there's got to be a slip joint there or

it'll be a real trick...


Yep, which is why I said if he can get a new P trap with a slip
joint in there, using a reducing bushing in the T, etc, that
would be much better/easier.





But, I'm presuming the guy who did it can measure...it would surely have

been nice if our OP had put a ruler or some other fixed-size object in

there when took the picture...



--

Maybe, but I'd leave it to the guy who's going to do it to figure out
the best solution, right size, etc. If you hand him the new nipple,
then the new P trap solution is out and if he tightens it up and the
vertical alignment is off, then Doh!

I'm still wondering what the duct tape below the tee is all about.
He said something about that being put there with regard to a
previous snaking of the drain? I couldn't make any sense of that.
I hope he's not saying they made a hole in the pipe to get the
snake in, then covered it with duct tape....

On Sun, 22 Jun 2014 06:22:10 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I'd suggested previously that maybe there is enough room so you could
put a reducing bushing in the T, then go to a new P trap with a slip
joint so that it can properly align. The way this thing was done, it
depends on the length of that nipple, how far it goes in when
tightened up to get a vertical alignment with the sink tailpiece.

I must have missed your earlier post, but your suggestion is a good option.
That would give a little bit of horizontal adjustment for aligning the P-
Trap.

Of course, if NYC doesn't allow plastic pipe as Novel thinks, that may not
be an option.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com
Then use copper/brass. ANYTHING but iron!!!

On Sun, 22 Jun 2014 10:02:39 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 21 Jun 2014 17:39:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

That's probably because it's just a close nipple. Nipples don't
come in any size you want.

I love all this nipple talk. Variety is the spice of life.
Actually they do - standard to every half inch - but to every quarter
are available (or were last I needed one - admittedly over a decade
ago) Not hard to custom make a nipple any size you need if you have a
pipe threader available - havr it made at your local plumbing supply,
or even Home Despot.

On Sun, 22 Jun 2014 12:39:14 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 6/21/2014 7:39 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Saturday, June 21, 2014 8:21:46 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jun 2014 06:27:22 -0700, "Pico Rico"

wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Friday, June 20, 2014 11:47:58 PM UTC-4, HerHusband wrote:
...

system in over 40 years - And the tailpiece into the trap doesn't line
up straight - so the nipple, if he was going to just replace it, needs
to be about half an inch longer.

That's probably because it's just a close nipple. Nipples don't
come in any size you want. ...

It would appear it's a half-inch short because OP said in original post,
the portion of the threads twisted off when the fella' took the trap off...

Np, that part is still there, stuck in the "T" fitting.

One can always make one whatever length required altho again as another
said the simpler solution for the drain would be to go to the standard
slip joint.

On Sunday, June 22, 2014 3:41:20 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jun 2014 10:02:39 -0700, Oren wrote:



On Sat, 21 Jun 2014 17:39:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4

wrote:



That's probably because it's just a close nipple. Nipples don't

come in any size you want.



I love all this nipple talk. Variety is the spice of life.

Actually they do - standard to every half inch - but to every quarter

are available (or were last I needed one - admittedly over a decade

ago) Not hard to custom make a nipple any size you need if you have a

pipe threader available - havr it made at your local plumbing supply,

or even Home Despot.

You know, I give it up. He should just go buy the ****ing nipple when
there is likely a better solution available. He should go all over
NYC to find the mythical store that stocks nipples in every length
down to 1/4". If he can't find it, then he should get HD to thread
it to the exact length required, based on what a drain cleaner told
him. Hell there is even general agreement here that from the pic,
it doesn't look 3" in diameter. Then he should hand whatever he buys
to the plumber so that the plumber he's paying $150 an hour can shove
it in, whether it's the right solution or not.

Happy now?

On 6/22/2014 2:07 PM, trader_4 wrote:
....

I agree. It's precisely my point. If it's not a standard length
nipple, buying one isn't going to work. And I wouldn't trust
the drain guy to have measured it correctly. Folks here are
assuming the reason it's not vertical is because some of the threads
on the end broke off. But these fittings are tapered. I think
you could take 1/2" off the end and it still would tighten up to
about the same length, no? Meaning it may never have been the
right length to begin with.

Maybe, maybe not (originally perfect length, that is)--we have no way to
know. I'm at least one who thinks from OPs original posting that it is
so that the threads twisted off in the trap when removed, yes. And, yes
NPT are tapered but once broke off the end, the remaining are larger and
unless he happened to have a 3" die set with him (what's the odds of
that if just the snaker-guy? ) he can't rethread so they'll snug up
quite soon...in fact, I'm somewhat surprised he was able to get it back
on, but appears to have done so.

....

Yep, which is why I said if he can get a new P trap with a slip
joint in there, using a reducing bushing in the T, etc, that
would be much better/easier.

Which I also said quite some time ago...


But, I'm presuming the guy who did it can measure...it would surely have
been nice if our OP had put a ruler or some other fixed-size object in
there when took the picture...

....

Maybe, but I'd leave it to the guy who's going to do it to figure out
the best solution, right size, etc. If you hand him the new nipple,
then the new P trap solution is out and if he tightens it up and the
vertical alignment is off, then Doh!

Well, I've not said anything against that at all, necessarily, only that
if the OP wants to just go back w/ the original, there's no real reason
not to imo -- I don't think any of the other "issues" raised are truly
significant in the bigger schemes of things. I'd guess it'll go another
40 yr before it clogs again unless OP is putting something down it that
shouldn't and then it'll clog just as well, anyway, if so...

As for the ruler wish, I was only interested in the true dimensions just
as a point of curiosity about it really being 3" drain there--that's
just remarkable if so it would seem...

I'm still wondering what the duct tape below the tee is all about.
He said something about that being put there with regard to a
previous snaking of the drain? I couldn't make any sense of that.
I hope he's not saying they made a hole in the pipe to get the
snake in, then covered it with duct tape....

Don't know, don't think I _want_ to know...

--

if NYC doesn't allow plastic pipe as Novel thinks, that may
not be an option.

Then use copper/brass. ANYTHING but iron!!!

Galvanized pipe is inexpensive and easy to find most anywhere.

Around here, copper pipe over 1" is unheard of and would surely be
expensive if you could find it.

Brass pipe is a bit rare in large sizes, but it's always expensive when I
can locate it. The few times I've needed large brass fittings, I have
ordered them online from plumbingsupply.com.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On Friday, June 20, 2014 8:49:16 AM UTC-4, novel wrote:
Plumber came to kitchen to take care of my clogged drain after I failed to do it myself. Below the sink, he took off the trap that had what he called a 3" pipe attached to it. Well as he was trying to remove it, part of the thread broke off. it was old and rusted. Now, he told me to have it replace. His job did not call for replacing pipes and had me sign a waver for that. That's fine. Now what I want to know is how to go about getting that pipe. I'm sure its not ready made, or maybe I am wrong. I know it probably won't be available in a regular hardware store. He said to ask for a 3" pipe, threaded on both ends and 3" long. Isn't that what they call a 'coupler"?

To all you guys... and gals? It is a single home. I will check about the PVC's if its necessary, when the plumber comes this morning to check it out. The drain cleaner did put a ruler to it after I questioned him and he did say 3" by 3" threaded at both ends. Obviously with that size, its not centered, so I guess its going to be at least longer than 3"...but again I will leave that up to the plumber. It definitely has to be removed cause like I said, part of the thread going into the T broke off that is why we taped it and its holding up pretty good considering.

On Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:08:01 -0700 (PDT), novel
wrote:

To all you guys... and gals? It is a single home. I will check about the PVC's if its necessary, when the plumber comes this morning to check it out. The drain cleaner did put a ruler to it after I questioned him and he did say 3" by 3" threaded at both ends. Obviously with that size, its not centered, so I guess its going to be at least longer than 3"...but again I will leave that up to the plumber. It definitely has to be removed cause like I said, part of the thread going into the T broke off that is why we taped it and its holding up pretty good considering.

When the job is done, please post another photo - post-mortem

On Monday, June 23, 2014 9:08:01 AM UTC-4, novel wrote:
On Friday, June 20, 2014 8:49:16 AM UTC-4, novel wrote:

Plumber came to kitchen to take care of my clogged drain after I failed to do it myself. Below the sink, he took off the trap that had what he called a 3" pipe attached to it. Well as he was trying to remove it, part of the thread broke off. it was old and rusted. Now, he told me to have it replace. His job did not call for replacing pipes and had me sign a waver for that. That's fine. Now what I want to know is how to go about getting that pipe. I'm sure its not ready made, or maybe I am wrong. I know it probably won't be available in a regular hardware store. He said to ask for a 3" pipe, threaded on both ends and 3" long. Isn't that what they call a 'coupler"?



To all you guys... and gals? It is a single home. I will check about the PVC's if its necessary, when the plumber comes this morning to check it out.. The drain cleaner did put a ruler to it after I questioned him and he did say 3" by 3" threaded at both ends. Obviously with that size, its not centered, so I guess its going to be at least longer than 3"...

No idea what that means. If it's 3" long, it's 3"
long.


but again I will leave that up to the plumber. It definitely has to be removed cause like I said, part of the thread going into the T broke off that is why we taped it and its holding up pretty good considering.

On 6/23/2014 8:08 AM, novel wrote:
On Friday, June 20, 2014 8:49:16 AM UTC-4, novel wrote:
....

To all you guys... and gals? It is a single home. I will check about
the PVC's if its necessary, when the plumber comes this morning to
check it out. The drain cleaner did put a ruler to it after I
questioned him and he did say 3" by 3" threaded at both ends.
Obviously with that size, its not centered, so I guess its going to
be at least longer than 3"...but again I will leave that up to the
plumber. It definitely has to be removed cause like I said, part of
the thread going into the T broke off that is why we taped it and its
holding up pretty good considering.

Is it a multi-story home then? What's above that stack?

That they used a full 3" trap is amazing to me--I don't think I've ever
seen such outside a commercial kitchen or the like.

The plan to let the plumber dude arrange as sees fit is probably best
bet; you might ask about the idea of reversing the T direction and what
is the tape around the lower exit line going on down doing? If he's
going to be out anyway, better do what should be done at one time if
there's something fishy there.

What's below the sink/floor? Access hopefully not a slab???

--

On Sun, 22 Jun 2014 13:08:39 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

You know, I give it up. He should just go buy the ****ing nipple when
there is likely a better solution available. He should go all over
NYC to find the mythical store that stocks nipples in every length
down to 1/4". If he can't find it, then he should get HD to thread
it to the exact length required, based on what a drain cleaner told
him. Hell there is even general agreement here that from the pic,
it doesn't look 3" in diameter. Then he should hand whatever he buys
to the plumber so that the plumber he's paying $150 an hour can shove
it in, whether it's the right solution or not.

Happy now?

Well, I tried to point out that anything is possible in Brooklyn.

On Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:20:08 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

if NYC doesn't allow plastic pipe as Novel thinks, that may
not be an option.

Then use copper/brass. ANYTHING but iron!!!

Galvanized pipe is inexpensive and easy to find most anywhere.

Around here, copper pipe over 1" is unheard of and would surely be
expensive if you could find it.

Brass pipe is a bit rare in large sizes, but it's always expensive when I
can locate it. The few times I've needed large brass fittings, I have
ordered them online from plumbingsupply.com.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

Brass drainkits are extremely common - plastic is taking over, but
brass traps, tailpeices, and fittings are available froam any decent
plumbing supplier in all the common drain sizes (I still do NOT
believe the drain referenced is 3 inch)

On Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:08:01 -0700 (PDT), novel
wrote:

On Friday, June 20, 2014 8:49:16 AM UTC-4, novel wrote:
Plumber came to kitchen to take care of my clogged drain after I failed to do it myself. Below the sink, he took off the trap that had what he called a 3" pipe attached to it. Well as he was trying to remove it, part of the thread broke off. it was old and rusted. Now, he told me to have it replace. His job did not call for replacing pipes and had me sign a waver for that. That's fine. Now what I want to know is how to go about getting that pipe. I'm sure its not ready made, or maybe I am wrong. I know it probably won't be available in a regular hardware store. He said to ask for a 3" pipe, threaded on both ends and 3" long. Isn't that what they call a 'coupler"?

To all you guys... and gals? It is a single home. I will check about the PVC's if its necessary, when the plumber comes this morning to check it out. The drain cleaner did put a ruler to it after I questioned him and he did say 3" by 3" threaded at both ends. Obviously with that size, its not centered, so I guess its going to be at least longer than 3"...but again I will leave that up to the plumber. It definitely has to be removed cause like I said, part of the thread going into the T broke off that is why we taped it and its holding up pretty good considering.
In the picture the nipple sure looks considerably longer than the
diameter -----

On 6/23/2014 1:48 PM, wrote:
(I still do NOT
believe the drain referenced is 3 inch)


I'd say inch and a quarter, or inch and a half.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

HerHusband writes:
Novel,

Here is the picture the red tape is covering the pipe in
question..sorry, its the best i can do
http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Nov..._0172.jpg.html

Anthony, yes a 'real plumber' did that years ago before I bought the
house according to the previous owner in order to snake it straight
down and then taped it. I am a diy..but particularly not in plumbing
of that nature so i would have to leave all to the discretion of a
real plumber. To the best of my knowledge, PVC's are not allowed or
were not allowed in NYC.

As far as I know, PVC and ABS are standard in the national plumbing codes.
Of course, it's entirely possible you have a local code that supercedes the
national code. If that's the case, you would probably have to go with
galvanized again. Here in Washington state, I don't think I've ever even
seen a galvanized P-trap.


More likely to be brass, usually chrome-plated.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 6/23/2014 1:48 PM, wrote:
(I still do NOT
believe the drain referenced is 3 inch)


I'd say inch and a quarter, or inch and a half.

where the red tape is is 3" pipe. do some measuring to other items in the
photo.

On 6/23/2014 3:36 PM, Pico Rico wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 6/23/2014 1:48 PM, wrote:
(I still do NOT
believe the drain referenced is 3 inch)


I'd say inch and a quarter, or inch and a half.

where the red tape is is 3" pipe. do some measuring to other items in the
photo.


Really? Seems a bit large for sink drain.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 6/21/2014 7:59 PM, novel wrote:

question..sorry, its the best i can do

http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Nov..._0172.jpg.html



Sure looks like inch and a half pipe, to me.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 6/23/2014 3:36 PM, Pico Rico wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 6/23/2014 1:48 PM, wrote:
(I still do NOT
believe the drain referenced is 3 inch)


I'd say inch and a quarter, or inch and a half.

where the red tape is is 3" pipe. do some measuring to other items in
the
photo.


Really? Seems a bit large for sink drain.


This whole thing seems a bit much. But look how much bigger the red taped
pipe is compared to the vertical drain just under the sink. They had a 3"
pipe there for some other reason, and plumbed this sink to it.

Brass drainkits are extremely common - plastic is taking over, but
brass traps, tailpeices, and fittings are available froam any decent
plumbing supplier in all the common drain sizes

I was thinking of the main fittings like the pipe nipple or the tee in the
main stack, rather than the P-trap assembly. For example,
plumbingsupply.com shows a 2" brass tee costing $38. Ouch. Of course, those
fittings are made for supply lines, not drains. I've never seen drain lines
made of brass (solid, not plated steel).

In any case, the only P-trap assemblies I have seen here in WA state are
PVC, ABS, or chromed steel. I could probably special order brass if I
wanted to, but it's not something available off the shelf.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

good place to use a couple of ferncos. I think I saw a T fernco some years ago.

On 6/24/2014 8:05 AM, bob haller wrote:
good place to use a couple of ferncos. I think
I saw a T fernco some years ago.


Was Mr. T Fernco black?

http://scienceblogs.com/startswithab...he-a-team.jpeg

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Monday, June 23, 2014 6:00:57 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/21/2014 7:59 PM, novel wrote:



question..sorry, its the best i can do



http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Nov..._0172.jpg.html







Sure looks like inch and a half pipe, to me.



Some strange physics in your world. Maybe you're taveling
backwards at the speed of light and suffering from relativity
disorder. To the rest of us, in that pic clearly the nipple
is much larger than 1 1/2". As others have pointed out, you
can tell that two ways:

A - The nipple compared to the tailpiece coming down from the sink.

B - The width of the nipple compared to it's measured length, which
is said to be 3".

It might not be 3", but I think everyone else here would put
money on it being greater than 1 1/2"

On Tuesday, June 24, 2014 8:51:50 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, June 23, 2014 6:00:57 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:

On 6/21/2014 7:59 PM, novel wrote:







question..sorry, its the best i can do







http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Nov..._0172.jpg.html















Sure looks like inch and a half pipe, to me.







Some strange physics in your world. Maybe you're taveling

backwards at the speed of light and suffering from relativity

disorder. To the rest of us, in that pic clearly the nipple

is much larger than 1 1/2". As others have pointed out, you

can tell that two ways:



A - The nipple compared to the tailpiece coming down from the sink.



B - The width of the nipple compared to it's measured length, which

is said to be 3".



It might not be 3", but I think everyone else here would put

money on it being greater than 1 1/2"

There seems to be a lot of questions regarding my 3" pipe.. I am the OP here. Some said to measure with a ruler..I went a step further by circling it with a string, than lied it down a ruler and it measured 6". So half of that, I believe would be the diameter...so do the math. It was circled around the red tape area cause that is where it was inserted into the T-pipe. Regardless, a genuine plumber is coming today to take all out and replaced with the latest P trap and etc, minus the T-pipe. Thanks to all...except the troll caller. LOL

On Tuesday, June 24, 2014 10:44:21 AM UTC-4, novel wrote:
On Tuesday, June 24, 2014 8:51:50 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

On Monday, June 23, 2014 6:00:57 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:



On 6/21/2014 7:59 PM, novel wrote:















question..sorry, its the best i can do















http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Nov..._0172.jpg.html































Sure looks like inch and a half pipe, to me.















Some strange physics in your world. Maybe you're taveling



backwards at the speed of light and suffering from relativity



disorder. To the rest of us, in that pic clearly the nipple



is much larger than 1 1/2". As others have pointed out, you



can tell that two ways:







A - The nipple compared to the tailpiece coming down from the sink.







B - The width of the nipple compared to it's measured length, which



is said to be 3".







It might not be 3", but I think everyone else here would put



money on it being greater than 1 1/2"



There seems to be a lot of questions regarding my 3" pipe.. I am the OP here. Some said to measure with a ruler..I went a step further by circling it with a string, than lied it down a ruler and it measured 6". So half of that, I believe would be the diameter...

no, 1/2 of that is half the circumference.


so do the math. It was circled around the red tape area cause that is where it was inserted into the T-pipe.

6"/pi = 6/3.14 = 1.91 inches.

That is the outside dimension, pipe is called out by the inside dimension.
What you have is a 1 1/2" pipe. I'll be damned, Stormin was right. How
that can jive with what we see in the pic, ie the length of the nipple,
the size of the tailpiece, IDK. The tailpiece looks about half the
size of the nipple. But heh, it is what it is.





Regardless, a genuine plumber is coming today to take all out and replaced with the latest P trap and etc, minus the T-pipe. Thanks to all...except the troll caller. LOL



Aside from thinking you were a troll, based on your first post, I supplied
many posts with accurate, helpful information. And in the end, you're doing
exactly what I said to do, ie don't buy anything, call a plumber and let
them come up with the right solution.

So, screw you. You obviously can't do grade school math. And the
drain cleaner who you called a plumber is no genius either, because
he told you to buy a 3" x 3" nipple. If you'd done that, you'd be sitting
there with your useless nipple in your hand.

On 6/24/2014 10:44 AM, novel wrote:

There seems to be a lot of questions regarding
my 3" pipe.. I am the OP here. Some said to measure
with a ruler..I went a step further by circling it
with a string, than lied it down a ruler and it
measured 6". So half of that, I believe would be
the diameter...so do the math. It was circled around
the red tape area cause that is where it was inserted
into the T-pipe. Regardless, a genuine plumber is
coming today to take all out and replaced with the
latest P trap and etc, minus the T-pipe. Thanks to
all...except the troll caller. LOL


Uhm, that's the wrong divisor. You need pi, not half.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 6/24/2014 11:45 AM, trader_4 wrote:

so do the math. It was circled around the red tape
area cause that is where it was inserted into the T-pipe.

6"/pi = 6/3.14 = 1.91 inches.

That is the outside dimension, pipe is called out by the inside dimension.
What you have is a 1 1/2" pipe. I'll be damned, Stormin was right.


I should print this out, and have it framed.
Happens so seldom.



--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Novel,

http://s349.photobucket.com/user/Nov..._0172.jpg.html
There seems to be a lot of questions regarding my 3" pipe.. I am the
OP here. Some said to measure with a ruler..I went a step further by
circling it with a string, than lied it down a ruler and it measured
6". So half of that, I believe would be the diameter...so do the math.
It was circled around the red tape area cause that is where it was
inserted into the T-pipe.

I'm terrible at math, so I used an online calculator to find the diameter:

http://www.onlineconversion.com/circlesolve.htm

6" circumference = 1.91" diameter

Then I looked up the outside diameter of galvanized pipe:

http://products.anssteel.com/viewite...ized-standard-
steel-pipe

1-1/2" galvanized appears to be closest to your 1.91" measurement.

That's a bit smaller than I expected. Dang, I guessed 2" pipe.

I knew it wasn't 3" based on the size of the bleach or vinegar bottle next
to it. The PVC tailpiece is usually 1-1/4 or 1-1/2, and the trap looks
larger than the tailpiece. The P-trap also looks like it reduces slightly
where it drops from the red taped area. 2" seemed the most likely.

I blame it on trick photography and/or photoshop.

It's one of those infinity photos where 3" pipe drains upward into a 1-
1/2" stack.

Thanks for clearing up the debate. Like trying to guess the number of
marbles in a jar, that was a fun side diversion.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 04:39:29 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

Brass drainkits are extremely common - plastic is taking over, but
brass traps, tailpeices, and fittings are available froam any decent
plumbing supplier in all the common drain sizes

I was thinking of the main fittings like the pipe nipple or the tee in the
main stack, rather than the P-trap assembly. For example,
plumbingsupply.com shows a 2" brass tee costing $38. Ouch. Of course, those
fittings are made for supply lines, not drains. I've never seen drain lines
made of brass (solid, not plated steel).

In any case, the only P-trap assemblies I have seen here in WA state are
PVC, ABS, or chromed steel. I could probably special order brass if I
wanted to, but it's not something available off the shelf.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

Look at:
http://www.matco-norca.com/category....s/Traps/id/217
The price list is available onlune. $40 ish for brass traps. That's
cast brass. The lightweight drawn brass are a lot less. $23 for one
from Home despot (see
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/bras...140625002530:s)