I bought an old farmhouse & I'm in the process of rewiring. I have looked
everywhere on the unit but can't find if it's 120, 220 or what. I tried
to search online but I'm left with more questions. I'm lost, please help.

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...rd-769935-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups

On 11/9/13 6:44 PM, Tiffany wrote:
I bought an old farmhouse & I'm in the process of rewiring. I have looked
everywhere on the unit but can't find if it's 120, 220 or what. I tried
to search online but I'm left with more questions. I'm lost, please help.

How does one know the original posting date of these homeowners hub
questions?

Tiffany wrote:
I bought an old farmhouse & I'm in the process of rewiring. I have looked
everywhere on the unit but can't find if it's 120, 220 or what. I tried
to search online but I'm left with more questions. I'm lost, please help.

By the date of the post.

Look at all the other ones. The dates of the posts are years old. This one
is dated today.

Temporarily hook it up to 120V. Turn it on and see how it works, in terms of giving off heat. If it is meant for 240V, the heat output will be 1/4 of its normal output, so it should be a 240V hookup. Don't try it on 240V first, because if it is a 120V unit, running it on 240V will cause it to put put 4 times correct output and will fry it in a few seconds.

Tiffany:

Typically on 220 volt appliances, there will be three places to connect the three wires going to the appliance, and those three places will be in a recognizable "row". You always connect the white neutral wire to the middle location and the red and black power wires to the outside locations. It doesn't matter whether the black goes on this side or that, or the red for that matter, as long as the white is in the middle and the red and black are on either side, you're good.

If there is a location for a ground wire, it will not be on that recognizable "row", for if it were, it could cause confusion.

So, look at the terminal block on that heater where you connect the wires. If you see a recognizable "row" of three connection sites, it's almost certainly a 220 volt heater. Otherwise, it's a 120 VAC heater, in which case there will be only two connection points and possibly a place to connect a ground wire as well.

You won't hurt a 220 volt appliance by trying to drive it with only 120 VAC. All that will happen is that the heating elements won't get nearly as hot as they should.

So, maybe the safest bet is to try connecting 120 VAC to the heater and see if it works properly. If not, it's probably cuz it needs 220 VAC power.

On Sat, 09 Nov 2013 18:58:48 -0600, Dean Hoffman
" wrote:

On 11/9/13 6:44 PM, Tiffany wrote:
I bought an old farmhouse & I'm in the process of rewiring. I have looked
everywhere on the unit but can't find if it's 120, 220 or what. I tried
to search online but I'm left with more questions. I'm lost, please help.

How does one know the original posting date of these homeowners hub
questions?

Look in the headers for the Date: tag.

The originals of the antiques don't show if you're using a decent
server.

On Saturday, November 9, 2013 10:56:12 PM UTC-5, nestork wrote:
'Tiffany[_2_ Wrote:

;3147253']I bought an old farmhouse & I'm in the process of rewiring. I

have looked

everywhere on the unit but can't find if it's 120, 220 or what. I

tried

to search online but I'm left with more questions. I'm lost, please

help.



--

posted from

'Wiring an Emerson Electric Baseboard' (http://tinyurl.com/kfjuve3)

using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface

to home and garden related groups



Tiffany:



Typically on 220 volt appliances, there will be three places to connect

the three wires going to the appliance, and those three places will be

in a recognizable "row". You always connect the white neutral wire to

the middle location and the red and black power wires to the outside

locations.

Typically a 240V heater like that isn't going to have a neutral connection
because it's 240V, none is required and it would serve no purpose.

On 11/9/2013 10:56 PM, nestork wrote:
'Tiffany[_2_ Wrote:
;3147253']I bought an old farmhouse & I'm in the process of rewiring. I
have looked
everywhere on the unit but can't find if it's 120, 220 or what. I
tried
to search online but I'm left with more questions. I'm lost, please
help.

--
posted from
'Wiring an Emerson Electric Baseboard' (http://tinyurl.com/kfjuve3)
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups
Tiffany:

Typically on 220 volt appliances, there will be three places to connect
the three wires going to the appliance, and those three places will be
in a recognizable "row". You always connect the white neutral wire to
the middle location and the red and black power wires to the outside
locations. It doesn't matter whether the black goes on this side or
that, or the red for that matter, as long as the white is in the middle
and the red and black are on either side, you're good.

If there is a location for a ground wire, it will not be on that
recognizable "row", for if it were, it could cause confusion.

So, look at the terminal block on that heater where you connect the
wires. If you see a recognizable "row" of three connection sites, it's
almost certainly a 220 volt heater. Otherwise, it's a 120 VAC heater,
in which case there will be only two connection points and possibly a
place to connect a ground wire as well.

You won't hurt a 220 volt appliance by trying to drive it with only 120
VAC. All that will happen is that the heating elements won't get nearly
as hot as they should.

So, maybe the safest bet is to try connecting 120 VAC to the heater and
see if it works properly. If not, it's probably cuz it needs 220 VAC
power.




Electric baseboard heaters don't use terminal blocks, they have wire
tails at both ends of the heater, so you can feed it from either end,
and they leave them wire nutted together so you don't have to open up
both ends to make your connections. It won't have a white neutral
connection, unless it is 120 volt

On Sun, 10 Nov 2013 07:53:03 -0500, RBM wrote:

On 11/9/2013 10:56 PM, nestork wrote:
'Tiffany[_2_ Wrote:
;3147253']I bought an old farmhouse & I'm in the process of rewiring. I
have looked
everywhere on the unit but can't find if it's 120, 220 or what. I
tried
to search online but I'm left with more questions. I'm lost, please
help.

--
posted from
'Wiring an Emerson Electric Baseboard' (http://tinyurl.com/kfjuve3)
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups
Tiffany:

Typically on 220 volt appliances, there will be three places to connect
the three wires going to the appliance, and those three places will be
in a recognizable "row". You always connect the white neutral wire to
the middle location and the red and black power wires to the outside
locations. It doesn't matter whether the black goes on this side or
that, or the red for that matter, as long as the white is in the middle
and the red and black are on either side, you're good.

If there is a location for a ground wire, it will not be on that
recognizable "row", for if it were, it could cause confusion.

So, look at the terminal block on that heater where you connect the
wires. If you see a recognizable "row" of three connection sites, it's
almost certainly a 220 volt heater. Otherwise, it's a 120 VAC heater,
in which case there will be only two connection points and possibly a
place to connect a ground wire as well.

You won't hurt a 220 volt appliance by trying to drive it with only 120
VAC. All that will happen is that the heating elements won't get nearly
as hot as they should.

So, maybe the safest bet is to try connecting 120 VAC to the heater and
see if it works properly. If not, it's probably cuz it needs 220 VAC
power.




Electric baseboard heaters don't use terminal blocks, they have wire
tails at both ends of the heater, so you can feed it from either end,
and they leave them wire nutted together so you don't have to open up
both ends to make your connections. It won't have a white neutral
connection, unless it is 120 volt
Correct - MOST 220 volt baseboard heaters will have 2 black or a
black and red, while a 120 will have a black and a white. What
wattage is the heater? Any model number on it??

" wrote:
Temporarily hook it up to 120V. Turn it on and see how it works, in
terms of giving off heat. If it is meant for 240V, the heat output will
be 1/4 of its normal output, so it should be a 240V hookup. Don't try it
on 240V first, because if it is a 120V unit, running it on 240V will
cause it to put put 4 times correct output and will fry it in a few seconds.

How do you know it's operating at 1/4 of normal output if you don't know
what normal output is?

On Sun, 10 Nov 2013 13:21:23 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

" wrote:
Temporarily hook it up to 120V. Turn it on and see how it works, in
terms of giving off heat. If it is meant for 240V, the heat output will
be 1/4 of its normal output, so it should be a 240V hookup. Don't try it
on 240V first, because if it is a 120V unit, running it on 240V will
cause it to put put 4 times correct output and will fry it in a few seconds.

How do you know it's operating at 1/4 of normal output if you don't know
what normal output is?
Barely warm compared to lotsa heat

nestork wrote in :

Tiffany: Pay no attention at all to this guy. He does not know what he's talking about.

Typically on 220 volt appliances, there will be three places to connect
the three wires going to the appliance, and those three places will be
in a recognizable "row". You always connect the white neutral wire to
the middle location and the red and black power wires to the outside
locations. It doesn't matter whether the black goes on this side or
that, or the red for that matter, as long as the white is in the middle
and the red and black are on either side, you're good.

Complete nonsense. On a 240V heater, there will be no neutral connection at all, and no white
wire in the circuit.

Doug Miller wrote in
:

nestork wrote in
:

Tiffany: Pay no attention at all to this guy. He does not know
what he's talking about.

Typically on 220 volt appliances, there will be three places to
connect the three wires going to the appliance, and those three
places will be in a recognizable "row". You always connect the
white neutral wire to the middle location and the red and black
power wires to the outside locations. It doesn't matter
whether the black goes on this side or that, or the red for
that matter, as long as the white is in the middle and the red
and black are on either side, you're good.

Complete nonsense. On a 240V heater, there will be no neutral
connection at all, and no white wire in the circuit.

I meant to say, no *red* wire in the circuit -- only white and
black, usually. Sorry for any confusion. Caught that right *after*
I posted, unfortunately... :-(

Doug Miller writes:
Doug Miller wrote in
:

nestork wrote in
:

Tiffany: Pay no attention at all to this guy. He does not know
what he's talking about.

Typically on 220 volt appliances, there will be three places to
connect the three wires going to the appliance, and those three
places will be in a recognizable "row". You always connect the
white neutral wire to the middle location and the red and black
power wires to the outside locations. It doesn't matter
whether the black goes on this side or that, or the red for
that matter, as long as the white is in the middle and the red
and black are on either side, you're good.

Complete nonsense. On a 240V heater, there will be no neutral
connection at all, and no white wire in the circuit.

I meant to say, no *red* wire in the circuit -- only white and
black, usually. Sorry for any confusion. Caught that right *after*
I posted, unfortunately... :-(


If a white wire is used as a current-carrying conductor in a 240VAC
circuit, shouldn't it be marked appropriately at both ends?

Most of my 240VAC devices use brown, blue, yellow, black or red
for the line conductors (12AWG THHN, for the most part, in EMT). YMMV.

A 240VAC appliance with a connector block will generally be marked
L1 and L2 for the two line connections, and if it does have a
need for 120VAC, will have a third connection marked N for the
grounded conductor. Plus the frame ground to which the grounding
conductor is connected.

replying to , Tiffany wrote:
hrhofmann wrote:

Temporarily hook it up to 120V. Turn it on and see how it works, in terms

of giving off heat. If it is meant for 240V, the heat output will be 1/4
o
f its normal output, so it should be a 240V hookup. Don't try it on 240V
f
irst, because if it is a 120V unit, running it on 240V will cause it to
put
put 4 times correct output and will fry it in a few seconds.


Thank you for the advice!

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...rd-769935-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups

(Scott Lurndal) wrote in :

Doug Miller writes:
Doug Miller wrote in
6:

nestork wrote in
:

Tiffany: Pay no attention at all to this guy. He does not know
what he's talking about.

Typically on 220 volt appliances, there will be three places to
connect the three wires going to the appliance, and those three
places will be in a recognizable "row". You always connect the
white neutral wire to the middle location and the red and black
power wires to the outside locations. It doesn't matter
whether the black goes on this side or that, or the red for
that matter, as long as the white is in the middle and the red
and black are on either side, you're good.

Complete nonsense. On a 240V heater, there will be no neutral
connection at all, and no white wire in the circuit.

I meant to say, no *red* wire in the circuit -- only white and
black, usually. Sorry for any confusion. Caught that right *after*
I posted, unfortunately... :-(


If a white wire is used as a current-carrying conductor in a 240VAC
circuit, shouldn't it be marked appropriately at both ends?

Yes, it should -- doesn't mean that it *is*, and in my experience it usually isn't.

Most of my 240VAC devices use brown, blue, yellow, black or red
for the line conductors (12AWG THHN, for the most part, in EMT). YMMV.

Much more common is 12/2 Romex: one black, one white, one uninsulated.

A 240VAC appliance with a connector block will generally be marked
L1 and L2 for the two line connections, and if it does have a
need for 120VAC, will have a third connection marked N for the
grounded conductor. Plus the frame ground to which the grounding
conductor is connected.

Agreed.

"Dean Hoffman" " wrote in message
...
On 11/9/13 6:44 PM, Tiffany wrote:
I bought an old farmhouse & I'm in the process of rewiring. I have
looked
everywhere on the unit but can't find if it's 120, 220 or what. I tried
to search online but I'm left with more questions. I'm lost, please
help.

How does one know the original posting date of these homeowners hub
questions?

I look at the signature line on the original post, which in this case was:

"posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...rd-769935-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups"

Then I click on the homeownershub link and I see the original message. On
the left hand side of that page, I see when it was originally posted. In
the above case, the original post is dated November 9, 2013.

On Saturday, November 9, 2013 6:44:01 PM UTC-6, Tiffany wrote:
I bought an old farmhouse & I'm in the process of rewiring. I have looked everywhere on the unit but can't find if it's 120, 220 or what. I tried to search online but I'm left with more questions. I'm lost, please help. -- posted from http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...rd-769935-.htm using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to home and garden related groups

Tiffany,

Please report back what you did and what you found out by doing it.

On Sat, 09 Nov 2013 18:58:48 -0600, Dean Hoffman
" wrote:

On 11/9/13 6:44 PM, Tiffany wrote:
I bought an old farmhouse & I'm in the process of rewiring. I have looked
everywhere on the unit but can't find if it's 120, 220 or what. I tried
to search online but I'm left with more questions. I'm lost, please help.

How does one know the original posting date of these homeowners hub
questions?

Sometimes it's listed. Not this time.
I dont reply to any of them. You're likely not talking to anyone, so
why bother! I'd like to find a way to filter them all, so they are
deleted.

On 11/13/13 6:00 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 09 Nov 2013 18:58:48 -0600, Dean Hoffman
" wrote:

On 11/9/13 6:44 PM, Tiffany wrote:
I bought an old farmhouse & I'm in the process of rewiring. I have looked
everywhere on the unit but can't find if it's 120, 220 or what. I tried
to search online but I'm left with more questions. I'm lost, please help.

How does one know the original posting date of these homeowners hub
questions?is

Sometimes it's listed. Not this time.
I dont reply to any of them. You're likely not talking to anyone, so
why bother! I'd like to find a way to filter them all, so they are
deleted.


I answered one awhile back about pipes under a trailer house.
Others pointed out the thread was years old. Nothing I could find put
the date older than November of this year. The date on the site even
put it in this year. I figured there was something hidden out in plain
sight I was missing. No loss, I was just curious.