So, what do you do with hundreds of AA cells?

Flashlights, battery backup for clock radios. Almost everything seems
to use AAs. Some of my flashlights are AAA (remote controls use a lot
of these). A 100 pack lasts us about a year.
CY: I go through a lot of AA cells. Some Rayovac "stay charged" do OK in
my flashlight and digi cam. I use a few AAA cells in flashlights.


I invested in some NiMH which I use for
mini mag light, and digital camera.

They're always dead when I need them. Alkalines are cheap enough that
I don't bother, much, with rechargables.

CY: I did that for a long time. Bought some newer Rayovac, and they seem
OK, and the stay charge ones are also good. For the money, not worth the
bother for you, I see. I can understand that.

The rechargeables I use are
almost all LiIon. I do have AA NiCds in a couple of computer mice.
They get charged constantly (recharge cradle) which isn't really good
for NiCds but I've had them for almost 10 years and have had to
replace the AA NiCds once (one each mouse).

CY: That's good results.


Does your device refuse the lower voltages?

Can't be bothered. I find that primary batteries are better in
flashlights and such.

CY: Glad that works for you.

The Rayovac D cells that leaked, were all
within date. I've got some Infinity Beyond
from Ebay, the AAA nearly all leaked. The
AA are dated to 2006, and still going strong.

I do like to keep batteries in a couple things,
flashlights and fluorescent closet light. Never
sure which will last, leak, etc.

ROV wrote back, they are sending coupons to help
replace the leakers. They sent some coupons to
help with the C cells that leaked (but were out
of date).

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/7/2013 7:49 PM, wrote:
I bought some Duracell Coppertops about three months ago.


The AA package says guaranteed 10 years and the battery itself says
2022 on it.

Yeah, that's what they say. I may believe it with the premium quality
batteries but not with the cheap Chinese stuff. They're cheap enough
to toss. Leaks aren't worth risking.

On Sat, 07 Sep 2013 20:09:51 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

The Rayovac D cells that leaked, were all
within date. I've got some Infinity Beyond
from Ebay, the AAA nearly all leaked. The
AA are dated to 2006, and still going strong.

Did they leak before they were used? I've found that alkalines never
leak until they're used and then go downhill fast. They may have a
long "shelf life" but once used they don't last long (maybe a year)
before leaking.

I do like to keep batteries in a couple things,
flashlights and fluorescent closet light. Never
sure which will last, leak, etc.

Yeah, I just buy the cheapest flashlights I can find. If the
batteries leak, so be it. I try to change the batteries frequently
but if I forget, I haven't lost much. Clocks are another thing. :-(

ROV wrote back, they are sending coupons to help
replace the leakers. They sent some coupons to
help with the C cells that leaked (but were out
of date).

The premium battery companies say they'll replace the appliance if
their products leak. From all reports I've heard, they do a decent
job but they still leak. It's easier to buy cheap and replace often.

i just had two more leakers today... 2x Duracell C cells in a flashlight, dated 2022... well it's 2013 and I'm sick of having to clean this white powder BS out of my devices! and the cells were still strong too, light was super bright. I f**king hate alkalines and can't wait until I get rid of them all! I would have never noticed were I not deliberately checking for leakage... (This isn't a light I use often, it sits in nightstand drawer in case power goes out while I'm asleep) got worried when I had to use a piece of shelf liner to get enough grip on the tailcap to unscrew it... *&^%$^&*)*!!!!

Worst part is, I am pretty sure that those cells are the ones that came included with the flashlight when bought it! And now won't trust it as it's been compromised...

On 9/7/2013 9:05 PM, N8N wrote:
i just had two more leakers today... 2x Duracell C cells in a
flashlight, dated 2022... well it's 2013 and I'm sick of having to
clean this white powder BS out of my devices! and the cells were
still strong too, light was super bright. I f**king hate alkalines
and can't wait until I get rid of them all! I would have never
noticed were I not deliberately checking for leakage... (This isn't a
light I use often, it sits in nightstand drawer in case power goes
out while I'm asleep) got worried when I had to use a piece of shelf
liner to get enough grip on the tailcap to unscrew it...
*&^%$^&*)*!!!!

Worst part is, I am pretty sure that those cells are the ones that
came included with the flashlight when bought it! And now won't
trust it as it's been compromised...


Heck, buy your new batteries and flashlights that have batteries
included in winter. They're less likely to have been sitting in a
hot trailer during transportation. I've had rechargeables leak, even
the hardwired cells. ^_^

TDD

The Rayovac D cells that leaked, were all
within date. I've got some Infinity Beyond
from Ebay, the AAA nearly all leaked. The
AA are dated to 2006, and still going strong.

Did they leak before they were used?
CY: Yes, new, sealed in the packages.


I've found that alkalines never
leak until they're used and then go downhill fast. They may have a
long "shelf life" but once used they don't last long (maybe a year)
before leaking.
CY: I didn't know that. Thank you.


I do like to keep batteries in a couple things,
flashlights and fluorescent closet light. Never
sure which will last, leak, etc.

Yeah, I just buy the cheapest flashlights I can find. If the
batteries leak, so be it. I try to change the batteries frequently
but if I forget, I haven't lost much. Clocks are another thing. :-(
CY: I've got a couple LED mag lights, would be nasty to lose those to
leakers. If I had a bunch around the house, I'd probably use Dollar Tree
2D, and like you say, not a big loss. Clocks, yes, eight or so bucks
each. I change clock batteries here and church, with the time change in
spring and fall. Need 26 batteries for all the clocks at church. Home,
clocks and also two for the thermostat.


ROV wrote back, they are sending coupons to help
replace the leakers. They sent some coupons to
help with the C cells that leaked (but were out
of date).

The premium battery companies say they'll replace the appliance if
their products leak. From all reports I've heard, they do a decent
job but they still leak. It's easier to buy cheap and replace often.
CY: I've done that once, when Duracells leaked in a friend's mag light.
I mailed it back to Duracell for him, and they sent a prepaid debit
card, which could be used for flashlight, or any other thing.

Sorry to hear that. I'm also losing confidence in
batteries of various brand. I've heard that
rechargable nickel metal hydrides don't leak.

One friend of mine who lives in the south uses
NiMH D cells in his lantern.

Know what you mean about not trusting things.
I no longer trust Rayovac D cells, having had
more than 60 of them leak. That size and brand
will never again be left in any device.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/7/2013 10:05 PM, N8N wrote:
i just had two more leakers today... 2x Duracell
C cells in a flashlight, dated 2022... well it's
2013 and I'm sick of having to clean this white
powder BS out of my devices! and the cells were
still strong too, light was super bright. I f**king
hate alkalines and can't wait until I get rid of them
all! I would have never noticed were I not deliberately
checking for leakage... (This isn't a light I use often,
it sits in nightstand drawer in case power goes out
while I'm asleep) got worried when I had to use a
piece of shelf liner to get enough grip on the tailcap
to unscrew it... *&^%$^&*)*!!!!

Worst part is, I am pretty sure that those cells
are the ones that came included with the flashlight
when bought it! And now won't trust it as it's been
compromised...

On 09/07/2013 08:41 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 07 Sep 2013 20:09:51 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

The Rayovac D cells that leaked, were all
within date. I've got some Infinity Beyond
from Ebay, the AAA nearly all leaked. The
AA are dated to 2006, and still going strong.

Did they leak before they were used? I've found that alkalines never
leak until they're used and then go downhill fast. They may have a
long "shelf life" but once used they don't last long (maybe a year)
before leaking.

I do like to keep batteries in a couple things,
flashlights and fluorescent closet light. Never
sure which will last, leak, etc.

Yeah, I just buy the cheapest flashlights I can find. If the
batteries leak, so be it. I try to change the batteries frequently
but if I forget, I haven't lost much. Clocks are another thing. :-(

Actually those little single AA quartz clock mechanisms are available
and cheap. I tend to like my flashlights though!

As I posted last night, I actually lost another one yesterday to
leakers... but it was a 2xC cell "Task Force" light so I'm only out
$30ish. Other than a 4xD Mag-Lite, it's probably the light that I have
with the worst weight-to-light-output ratio, could have been worse...

I didn't do anything wrong with this one though, just happened to check
it and found the cells leaking. It was in my nightstand drawer in case
the power went out, lived in the glovebox of a car for a while before
that, but in any case was rarely used and the cells were still good. If
there was any "abuse" might be temperature extremes, but still...

Worst part is I've bought literally dozens of NiMH AA and AAA cells in
an attempt to eradicate all alkalines from my life but haven't got
around to the few larger-cell devices yet. I'm going to have to do that
soon, as one of those devices is my Simpson 260, and if I lost that I'd
be mad. ("just take the batteries out when you're not using it" isn't a
viable strategy as it takes about 5-10 minutes to do so.)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 9/8/2013 7:13 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:



Yeah, I just buy the cheapest flashlights I can find. If the
batteries leak, so be it. I try to change the batteries frequently
but if I forget, I haven't lost much. Clocks are another thing. :-(

Actually those little single AA quartz clock mechanisms are available
and cheap. I tend to like my flashlights though!

CY: Which is fine, if you have the skills to change out the clock
mechanism. Many folks don't. Flashlights? Yes, sure is nice to see what
I'm working on, I'm a repair guy. I use my minimag nearly every day.
Also to be able to walk around at night when the power is out. Or
outdoors. A couple days ago, I visited some friends who live out in the
country. Needed my light to get back to the car, it sure gets dark.


As I posted last night, I actually lost another one yesterday to
leakers... but it was a 2xC cell "Task Force" light so I'm only out
$30ish.

CY: I think I've seen those in Home Depot. Did you try to clean out the
crud? They do look like fun, but I've got other lights.


Other than a 4xD Mag-Lite, it's probably the light that I have
with the worst weight-to-light-output ratio, could have been worse...


CY: Oops, maybe better that I don't have one?

I didn't do anything wrong with this one though, just happened to check
it and found the cells leaking. It was in my nightstand drawer in case
the power went out, lived in the glovebox of a car for a while before
that, but in any case was rarely used and the cells were still good. If
there was any "abuse" might be temperature extremes, but still...

CY: Sounds like there was enough "in date" left, they should have been
fine. But were not, of course. I have a couple of lights I really should
check and replace the batteries. i've heard Mag C or D lights leak,
because the tail cap spring is very powerful.



Worst part is I've bought literally dozens of NiMH AA and AAA cells in
an attempt to eradicate all alkalines from my life but haven't got
around to the few larger-cell devices yet.

CY: I've had excellent results with the stay charged NiMH. I have some
for my pocket light and digital camera. I rotate them every couple days
with charged ones, so maybe it's not a true test.

I'm going to have to do that
soon, as one of those devices is my Simpson 260, and if I lost that I'd
be mad. ("just take the batteries out when you're not using it" isn't a
viable strategy as it takes about 5-10 minutes to do so.)

CY: I had a Simpson. It got crushed in the back of my van, and that was
a very sad moment. I found that very useful meter.


nate

On 09/08/2013 07:31 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/8/2013 7:13 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:



Yeah, I just buy the cheapest flashlights I can find. If the
batteries leak, so be it. I try to change the batteries frequently
but if I forget, I haven't lost much. Clocks are another thing. :-(

Actually those little single AA quartz clock mechanisms are available
and cheap. I tend to like my flashlights though!

CY: Which is fine, if you have the skills to change out the clock
mechanism. Many folks don't. Flashlights? Yes, sure is nice to see what
I'm working on, I'm a repair guy. I use my minimag nearly every day.
Also to be able to walk around at night when the power is out. Or
outdoors. A couple days ago, I visited some friends who live out in the
country. Needed my light to get back to the car, it sure gets dark.


As I posted last night, I actually lost another one yesterday to
leakers... but it was a 2xC cell "Task Force" light so I'm only out
$30ish.

CY: I think I've seen those in Home Depot. Did you try to clean out the
crud? They do look like fun, but I've got other lights.


Other than a 4xD Mag-Lite, it's probably the light that I have
with the worst weight-to-light-output ratio, could have been worse...


CY: Oops, maybe better that I don't have one?

I didn't do anything wrong with this one though, just happened to check
it and found the cells leaking. It was in my nightstand drawer in case
the power went out, lived in the glovebox of a car for a while before
that, but in any case was rarely used and the cells were still good. If
there was any "abuse" might be temperature extremes, but still...

CY: Sounds like there was enough "in date" left, they should have been
fine. But were not, of course. I have a couple of lights I really should
check and replace the batteries. i've heard Mag C or D lights leak,
because the tail cap spring is very powerful.



Worst part is I've bought literally dozens of NiMH AA and AAA cells in
an attempt to eradicate all alkalines from my life but haven't got
around to the few larger-cell devices yet.

CY: I've had excellent results with the stay charged NiMH. I have some
for my pocket light and digital camera. I rotate them every couple days
with charged ones, so maybe it's not a true test.

I'm going to have to do that
soon, as one of those devices is my Simpson 260, and if I lost that I'd
be mad. ("just take the batteries out when you're not using it" isn't a
viable strategy as it takes about 5-10 minutes to do so.)

CY: I had a Simpson. It got crushed in the back of my van, and that was
a very sad moment. I found that very useful meter.


Don't let my comments about the Task Force (Lowes) light discourage you
from buying it, if you think it will be useful to you. For $30 it is a
hell of a little light with the only functional drawback being that it
is not waterproof. The machining is a little crude on the threads but
other than that can't complain too much. It was a great deal maybe 3-4
years ago when it was introduced (which is why it became my default
"stash in strategic locations" light); if they still sell them, get the
2-C cell one with the 3W Cree LED.

Compared to, say, a Surefire 6P with a Malkoff LED drop in, it ain't
much (actually light output is comparable but the quality of the
Surefire is so much better) but it will blow your mag-lite away.

And literally as I started typing this the power went out, so having
flashlights is a Good Thing (tm). Gotta go power down and shut off the
beepers on all the UPS units.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 9/8/2013 8:14 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
As I posted last night, I actually lost another one yesterday to
leakers... but it was a 2xC cell "Task Force" light so I'm only out
$30ish.
Other than a 4xD Mag-Lite, it's probably the light that I have
with the worst weight-to-light-output ratio, could have been worse...


CY: Oops, maybe better that I don't have one?


Don't let my comments about the Task Force (Lowes) light discourage you
from buying it, if you think it will be useful to you. For $30 it is a
hell of a little light with the only functional drawback being that it
is not waterproof.
CY: Thank you. It does look like a good light. Pocket size,
barely. And appears to have good light output. I am up to
my eyes in debt, and can't really afford the money. I also
have other lights that are able to do what I need, so can't
justify the cost. But, it does look fun.


The machining is a little crude on the threads but
other than that can't complain too much.
CY: Harbor Freight has similar problem. I have to put a
dab of grease or Vaseline on the threads. They are much
better, then. The three AAA cell short lights from HF
have really coarse threads.



It was a great deal maybe 3-4 years ago when it was
introduced (which is why it became my default
"stash in strategic locations" light); if they still
sell them, get the 2-C cell one with the 3W Cree LED.

CY: Sounds good. I have assortment of lights that take
two AA cells. Some of them are brighter than my old
Duracell Durabeam, which takes 2 D cells and doesn't fit
at all well in my pocket.



Compared to, say, a Surefire 6P with a Malkoff LED drop in, it ain't
much (actually light output is comparable but the quality of the
Surefire is so much better) but it will blow your mag-lite away.

CY: Some of the LED lights now days are really awe inspiring.
The earlier LED were blue, which I didn't like. But the Mag
LED with factory installed bulb, are pure white. Wish I had
more money to buy more.


And literally as I started typing this the power went out, so having
flashlights is a Good Thing (tm). Gotta go power down and shut off the
beepers on all the UPS units.
CY: Git im. Hope you got your flash light cleaned out, so
you can have light. Water can remove some of the white crud,
but sometimes the terminals are corroded.


nate

On a Yahoo! email list, another writer reminds me she
had a LOT of Rayovac D cells leak. And you had Duracells.

Oh, forgot. If you can't save that Lowe's light, you
can mail it back to Duracell for their warranty replace-
ment. The one time I did that, Dura sent me a debit card.
I was only able to use the debit card three times, and
then it locked up on me. So, spend it fast and in one
place if you get a debit card from them. Cost me about
$15 to mail the light, for a $30 debit card, so it
wasn't a huge money maker.

Sure has been unhappy for me, pitching over 60 Rayovac
D cells into the trash. Ah, well. They did ship replacement
cells for the first batch, and promised coupons for the
second. So, they do honor the leak replace guarantee.



..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/8/2013 8:14 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
Don't let my comments about the Task Force (Lowes) light discourage you
from buying it, if you think it will be useful to you. For $30 it is a
hell of a little light with the only functional drawback being that it
is not waterproof. The machining is a little crude on the threads but
other than that can't complain too much. It was a great deal maybe 3-4
years ago when it was introduced (which is why it became my default
"stash in strategic locations" light); if they still sell them, get the
2-C cell one with the 3W Cree LED.

Compared to, say, a Surefire 6P with a Malkoff LED drop in, it ain't
much (actually light output is comparable but the quality of the
Surefire is so much better) but it will blow your mag-lite away.

And literally as I started typing this the power went out, so having
flashlights is a Good Thing (tm). Gotta go power down and shut off the
beepers on all the UPS units.

nate

On 09/08/2013 08:40 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On a Yahoo! email list, another writer reminds me she
had a LOT of Rayovac D cells leak. And you had Duracells.

Oh, forgot. If you can't save that Lowe's light, you
can mail it back to Duracell for their warranty replace-
ment. The one time I did that, Dura sent me a debit card.
I was only able to use the debit card three times, and
then it locked up on me. So, spend it fast and in one
place if you get a debit card from them. Cost me about
$15 to mail the light, for a $30 debit card, so it
wasn't a huge money maker.

Sure has been unhappy for me, pitching over 60 Rayovac
D cells into the trash. Ah, well. They did ship replacement
cells for the first batch, and promised coupons for the
second. So, they do honor the leak replace guarantee.

Well, the light was functioning, it was just on a whim that I pulled it
out to check it and was unable to unscrew the tailcap without tools.
I've already got the metal bits soaking in a Mason jar, although that's
as far as I got as the kitchen is kind of dark (north-east facing window
with trees close by) and I hosed the switch down with Deoxit. Hopefully
that will be all that's required.

The annoying thing is I literally just got another batch of NiMHs in the
mail two days ago and am waiting for the Chinese eBay dude to get back
to me about a quantity purchase of the cell adapters that we were
discussing, but too late to prevent incident with this light.

I always grease threads and O-rings as a matter of course but for some
reason hadn't on this light...

thanks

nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 9/8/2013 8:48 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:

Oh, forgot. If you can't save that Lowe's light, you
can mail it back to Duracell for their warranty replace-
ment. The one time I did that, Dura sent me a debit card.

Well, the light was functioning, it was just on a whim that I pulled it
out to check it and was unable to unscrew the tailcap without tools.

CY: Sounds like a very good whim. I think I should go around
and check all my battery devices. A couple days ago, I found
a leaky AA cell in the shaver I keep in the truck.

I've already got the metal bits soaking in a Mason jar, although that's
as far as I got as the kitchen is kind of dark (north-east facing window
with trees close by) and I hosed the switch down with Deoxit. Hopefully
that will be all that's required.

CY: Since the crud is alkaline, it should be water soluble.
My guess is you dry out the light, and it should be OK. Might
want to put some grease on the contacts, and on the tail cap
threads. Kitchen dark? use a flashlight. (I know; not funny,
Chris!)


The annoying thing is I literally just got another batch of NiMHs in the
mail two days ago and am waiting for the Chinese eBay dude to get back
to me about a quantity purchase of the cell adapters that we were
discussing, but too late to prevent incident with this light.
CY: Man, that's some rough timing. Isn't that the way?
The bright side, maybe some lurkers are reading this, and
will get the idea to go check all their batteries.

CY: Are your newly arrived batteries charged? So you can
use them during your power cut?


I always grease threads and O-rings as a matter of course but for some
reason hadn't on this light...
CY: Ah, well. Can't remember every thing all the time. As
much as you and I do try.


thanks

nate

On 09/08/2013 09:10 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/8/2013 8:48 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:

Oh, forgot. If you can't save that Lowe's light, you
can mail it back to Duracell for their warranty replace-
ment. The one time I did that, Dura sent me a debit card.

Well, the light was functioning, it was just on a whim that I pulled it
out to check it and was unable to unscrew the tailcap without tools.

CY: Sounds like a very good whim. I think I should go around
and check all my battery devices. A couple days ago, I found
a leaky AA cell in the shaver I keep in the truck.

I've already got the metal bits soaking in a Mason jar, although that's
as far as I got as the kitchen is kind of dark (north-east facing window
with trees close by) and I hosed the switch down with Deoxit. Hopefully
that will be all that's required.

CY: Since the crud is alkaline, it should be water soluble.
My guess is you dry out the light, and it should be OK. Might
want to put some grease on the contacts, and on the tail cap
threads. Kitchen dark? use a flashlight. (I know; not funny,
Chris!)


The annoying thing is I literally just got another batch of NiMHs in the
mail two days ago and am waiting for the Chinese eBay dude to get back
to me about a quantity purchase of the cell adapters that we were
discussing, but too late to prevent incident with this light.
CY: Man, that's some rough timing. Isn't that the way?
The bright side, maybe some lurkers are reading this, and
will get the idea to go check all their batteries.

CY: Are your newly arrived batteries charged? So you can
use them during your power cut?


I always grease threads and O-rings as a matter of course but for some
reason hadn't on this light...
CY: Ah, well. Can't remember every thing all the time. As
much as you and I do try.


Well, power came back on and light seems to be working... but I have
only two C cells in the entire house (out of another similar light)
fortunately I already had my Surefire hanging from my belt because I'm
planning on having to replace a friend's fuse panel in his car later
today so I looked spectacularly prepared

I guess I will have to drive to Micro Center later because I know that
they sell the Tenergy Centura C cells there... I have two crappy old
"CTA" brand C cells that I think I got from DX but having abused them on
a dumb charger for years I think that their capacity is probably more
like an AA now...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

CY: Best of luck with the light you're restoring.
I hope it dries out, greases up, and works for
many more years. Sounds useful.

On 9/8/2013 10:04 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:

CY: Ah, well. Can't remember every thing all the time. As
much as you and I do try.


Well, power came back on and light seems to be working... but I have
only two C cells in the entire house (out of another similar light)

CY: I've heard a few bad things about Rayovac. Please
consider some other brand when you go to buy.

fortunately I already had my Surefire hanging from my belt because I'm
planning on having to replace a friend's fuse panel in his car later
today so I looked spectacularly prepared

CY: we never doubted you. You have my respect.
I also try to stay within reach of a battery
light of some kind, at all times.


I guess I will have to drive to Micro Center later because I know that
they sell the Tenergy Centura C cells there...

CY: I'm not familiar with that brand. Please consider
telephone before you drive. With a power cut, the
herds of sheeple may have gone and bought them all.
C cells often sell out last, as fewer people have C
cell flash lights, I find.

I have two crappy old
"CTA" brand C cells that I think I got from DX but having abused them on
a dumb charger for years I think that their capacity is probably more
like an AA now...

CY: Some C and D rechargable are rated for 2500, so
they are more like AA.


nate

On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 07:13:14 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:

On 09/07/2013 08:41 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 07 Sep 2013 20:09:51 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

The Rayovac D cells that leaked, were all
within date. I've got some Infinity Beyond
from Ebay, the AAA nearly all leaked. The
AA are dated to 2006, and still going strong.

Did they leak before they were used? I've found that alkalines never
leak until they're used and then go downhill fast. They may have a
long "shelf life" but once used they don't last long (maybe a year)
before leaking.

I do like to keep batteries in a couple things,
flashlights and fluorescent closet light. Never
sure which will last, leak, etc.

Yeah, I just buy the cheapest flashlights I can find. If the
batteries leak, so be it. I try to change the batteries frequently
but if I forget, I haven't lost much. Clocks are another thing. :-(

Actually those little single AA quartz clock mechanisms are available
and cheap. I tend to like my flashlights though!

Yeah, I have one to replace (noting to do with leaking, though). OTOH,
my Internet (clock) radios are not cheap.

As I posted last night, I actually lost another one yesterday to
leakers... but it was a 2xC cell "Task Force" light so I'm only out
$30ish. Other than a 4xD Mag-Lite, it's probably the light that I have
with the worst weight-to-light-output ratio, could have been worse...

I don't think I have a flashlight that I paid half that for. I just
bought a couple of $1 3xAAA HFs. If the batteries leak, I'm really
not that concerned.

I didn't do anything wrong with this one though, just happened to check
it and found the cells leaking. It was in my nightstand drawer in case
the power went out, lived in the glovebox of a car for a while before
that, but in any case was rarely used and the cells were still good. If
there was any "abuse" might be temperature extremes, but still...

A car is the worst environment for a battery that one can imagine.
It's amazing that starter batteries last as long as they do.

Worst part is I've bought literally dozens of NiMH AA and AAA cells in
an attempt to eradicate all alkalines from my life but haven't got
around to the few larger-cell devices yet. I'm going to have to do that
soon, as one of those devices is my Simpson 260, and if I lost that I'd
be mad. ("just take the batteries out when you're not using it" isn't a
viable strategy as it takes about 5-10 minutes to do so.)

There are many reasons I don't own a '260 but I get your point. I do
take the batteries out of my laser levels, and such. I probably only
use them once or twice a year and at ~$100 each, it's easier to pull
the batteries.

On Sunday, September 8, 2013 12:21:15 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 07:13:14 -0400, Nate Nagel

wrote:



On 09/07/2013 08:41 PM, wrote:

On Sat, 07 Sep 2013 20:09:51 -0400, Stormin Mormon

wrote:



The Rayovac D cells that leaked, were all

within date. I've got some Infinity Beyond

from Ebay, the AAA nearly all leaked. The

AA are dated to 2006, and still going strong.



Did they leak before they were used? I've found that alkalines never

leak until they're used and then go downhill fast. They may have a

long "shelf life" but once used they don't last long (maybe a year)

before leaking.



I do like to keep batteries in a couple things,

flashlights and fluorescent closet light. Never

sure which will last, leak, etc.



Yeah, I just buy the cheapest flashlights I can find. If the

batteries leak, so be it. I try to change the batteries frequently

but if I forget, I haven't lost much. Clocks are another thing. :-(



Actually those little single AA quartz clock mechanisms are available

and cheap. I tend to like my flashlights though!



Yeah, I have one to replace (noting to do with leaking, though). OTOH,

my Internet (clock) radios are not cheap.



As I posted last night, I actually lost another one yesterday to

leakers... but it was a 2xC cell "Task Force" light so I'm only out

$30ish. Other than a 4xD Mag-Lite, it's probably the light that I have

with the worst weight-to-light-output ratio, could have been worse...



I don't think I have a flashlight that I paid half that for. I just

bought a couple of $1 3xAAA HFs. If the batteries leak, I'm really

not that concerned.


That's a viable strategy. I've had a long standing discussion with a friend of mine regarding the "cheap and disposable" vs. "quality but 'spensive" paradigm when it comes to tools. I have a real Skil brand circular saw, a Snap-On torque wrench, a Milwaukee Sawzall, angle grinder, 1/2" drill, etc. Most of his tools are from the Freight.

Now, if you run the numbers - he's probably right from an economic perspective, and I'm powerless to argue against it. However, there's an intangible satisfaction from knowing that your tools are going to work at a moment's notice.

The same discussion applies here. I like my Surefire flashlight. There's really no economic justification for having it, but it feels quality in the hand, the threads are butter smooth, and I *know* deep down inside that if it fails to work, that new cells will fix it, because there's really no other failure mode that is likely. But for what it cost, I could have bought four of the TF lights, or a whole shedload of HF lights.

BUT... when you make that decision, then you have to use quality cells, because you don't want your quality device to die a premature death because of leaking cells.

a) I'm way too lazy to pull the cells from items that aren't in current use.. sometimes it's just impractical (see below.)

b) I have WAY too many devices that use various cells. Downstairs, I have SIX remote controls, each of which uses two AA or AAA cells, because of all the stuff rscked up in the TV stand (TV, receiver, cable box, PS3, CD player, VCR, tuner) some of which would be prohibitively expensive to replace were they destroyed - my tuner is a Sangean HDT-1x which has been discontinued for several years now, and were it to die I don't know what I would replace it with as any comparable unit is much more expensive than what I paid for it! So I have an incentive to keep the remote functioning. Probably the smart thing to do would be to suck it up and get one of those Logitech Harmony remotes, which would also likely make the home entertainment system usable by the non-technically-inclined... but they're 'spensive too. That, a few battery powered tools, and a couple smaller flashlights that operate off AAs is where the first batch of NiMHs that I bought ended up.


I didn't do anything wrong with this one though, just happened to check

it and found the cells leaking. It was in my nightstand drawer in case

the power went out, lived in the glovebox of a car for a while before

that, but in any case was rarely used and the cells were still good. If

there was any "abuse" might be temperature extremes, but still...



A car is the worst environment for a battery that one can imagine.

It's amazing that starter batteries last as long as they do.


Agree somewhat, but the cells were still well charged, usually it is when they are discharged that they leak.


Worst part is I've bought literally dozens of NiMH AA and AAA cells in

an attempt to eradicate all alkalines from my life but haven't got

around to the few larger-cell devices yet. I'm going to have to do that

soon, as one of those devices is my Simpson 260, and if I lost that I'd

be mad. ("just take the batteries out when you're not using it" isn't a

viable strategy as it takes about 5-10 minutes to do so.)



There are many reasons I don't own a '260 but I get your point. I do

take the batteries out of my laser levels, and such. I probably only

use them once or twice a year and at ~$100 each, it's easier to pull

the batteries.

Well, I also have two Fluke meters that use 9V batteries... for some reason those don't seem to leak nearly as often as single cells though.

I tend to end up using one multimeter or other at least once a week, and in all cases removing the cells/batteries requires at least a screwdriver, so I'm thinking switching to NiMH is in the cards.

nate

On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 07:13:14 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:

Worst part is I've bought literally dozens of NiMH AA and AAA cells in
an attempt to eradicate all alkalines from my life but haven't got
around to the few larger-cell devices yet. I'm going to have to do that
soon,

Read the package very carefully. I've found that most NiMH D cells on
the market are the same amp-hour rating as it's sister AA. In fact
I've opened a few and found an AA cell inside, complete with the label
it would have if sold in a package.

There are physical adapters to do that. I've tried them and they work
but the difference in ahr capacity makes for very little run time per
charge.

as one of those devices is my Simpson 260, and if I lost that I'd
be mad. ("just take the batteries out when you're not using it" isn't a
viable strategy as it takes about 5-10 minutes to do so.)

Good man. I have three, two in perfect condition, the third a little
wounded but usable. I have lots of digital too but once in a while the
old one earns it's keep.

Winston_Smith wrote:
On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 07:13:14 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:

Worst part is I've bought literally dozens of NiMH AA and AAA cells in
an attempt to eradicate all alkalines from my life but haven't got
around to the few larger-cell devices yet. I'm going to have to do that
soon,

Read the package very carefully. I've found that most NiMH D cells on
the market are the same amp-hour rating as it's sister AA. In fact
I've opened a few and found an AA cell inside, complete with the label
it would have if sold in a package.

There are physical adapters to do that. I've tried them and they work
but the difference in ahr capacity makes for very little run time per
charge.

as one of those devices is my Simpson 260, and if I lost that I'd
be mad. ("just take the batteries out when you're not using it" isn't a
viable strategy as it takes about 5-10 minutes to do so.)

Good man. I have three, two in perfect condition, the third a little
wounded but usable. I have lots of digital too but once in a while the
old one earns it's keep.

Hi,
Same here. Latest version Simpson 260, dependable, tough work horse.

On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 06:52:38 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

The Rayovac D cells that leaked, were all
within date. I've got some Infinity Beyond
from Ebay, the AAA nearly all leaked. The
AA are dated to 2006, and still going strong.

Did they leak before they were used?
CY: Yes, new, sealed in the packages.

Amazing. Never seen that one.

snip

Yeah, I just buy the cheapest flashlights I can find. If the
batteries leak, so be it. I try to change the batteries frequently
but if I forget, I haven't lost much. Clocks are another thing. :-(
CY: I've got a couple LED mag lights, would be nasty to lose those to
leakers. If I had a bunch around the house, I'd probably use Dollar Tree
2D, and like you say, not a big loss. Clocks, yes, eight or so bucks
each. I change clock batteries here and church, with the time change in
spring and fall. Need 26 batteries for all the clocks at church. Home,
clocks and also two for the thermostat.

...or $200 each (Internet clock radio).


ROV wrote back, they are sending coupons to help
replace the leakers. They sent some coupons to
help with the C cells that leaked (but were out
of date).

The premium battery companies say they'll replace the appliance if
their products leak. From all reports I've heard, they do a decent
job but they still leak. It's easier to buy cheap and replace often.
CY: I've done that once, when Duracells leaked in a friend's mag light.
I mailed it back to Duracell for him, and they sent a prepaid debit
card, which could be used for flashlight, or any other thing.

I've heard similar from others. If the appliance is worth anything,
brand-name batteries (copper of bunny) are probably the way to go.

On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 07:31:14 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 9/8/2013 7:13 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:



Yeah, I just buy the cheapest flashlights I can find. If the
batteries leak, so be it. I try to change the batteries frequently
but if I forget, I haven't lost much. Clocks are another thing. :-(

Actually those little single AA quartz clock mechanisms are available
and cheap. I tend to like my flashlights though!

CY: Which is fine, if you have the skills to change out the clock
mechanism. Many folks don't.

Most are really simple. Pull off the hands, unscrew the nut around
the hub, pull motor - reverse the process. The motors are available
in many hobby type stores, for cheap.

On Sun, 8 Sep 2013 09:39:53 -0700 (PDT), N8N
wrote:

On Sunday, September 8, 2013 12:21:15 PM UTC-4, wrote:
snip

I don't think I have a flashlight that I paid half that for. I just

bought a couple of $1 3xAAA HFs. If the batteries leak, I'm really

not that concerned.


That's a viable strategy. I've had a long standing discussion with a friend of mine regarding the "cheap and disposable" vs. "quality but 'spensive" paradigm when it comes to tools. I have a real Skil brand circular saw, a Snap-On torque wrench, a Milwaukee Sawzall, angle grinder, 1/2" drill, etc. Most of his tools are from the Freight.

Now, if you run the numbers - he's probably right from an economic perspective, and I'm powerless to argue against it. However, there's an intangible satisfaction from knowing that your tools are going to work at a moment's notice.

That might be true if the cheap tool actually works. I've bought
enough crap in my life to swear off cheap tools, forever. Saws that
don't cut straight to drills that don't. Even though I'm a DIYer, I
can't afford cheap tools.

For flashlights around the house, anything works. Just salt enough of
them around that one will be within reach when the lights go out.
OTOH, if I were a cop, I'd probably want a nice 6x'D' Maglight. ;-)

The same discussion applies here. I like my Surefire flashlight. There's really no economic justification for having it, but it feels quality in the hand, the threads are butter smooth, and I *know* deep down inside that if it fails to work, that new cells will fix it, because there's really no other failure mode that is likely. But for what it cost, I could have bought four of the TF lights, or a whole shedload of HF lights.

One of the HFs will more likely be within reach, too. ;-)

BUT... when you make that decision, then you have to use quality cells, because you don't want your quality device to die a premature death because of leaking cells.

The problem is that they all leak. The only advantage of the
expensive brands is the warranty. That's too late, IMO.

a) I'm way too lazy to pull the cells from items that aren't in current use. sometimes it's just impractical (see below.)

I hear you. I just do it occasionally. If I have a drawer full of
batteries, I just replace cells when I reach for the widget. I don't
store any batteries in more expensive gear (laser levels, DVMs, etc.)
that aren't in continuous use. I put new batteries in at every use
then pull and toss them when I put the tools away.

b) I have WAY too many devices that use various cells. Downstairs, I have SIX remote controls, each of which uses two AA or AAA cells, because of all the stuff rscked up in the TV stand (TV, receiver, cable box, PS3, CD player, VCR, tuner) some of which would be prohibitively expensive to replace were they destroyed - my tuner is a Sangean HDT-1x which has been discontinued for several years now, and were it to die I don't know what I would replace it with as any comparable unit is much more expensive than what I paid for it! So I have an incentive to keep the remote functioning. Probably the smart thing to do would be to suck it up and get one of those Logitech Harmony remotes, which would also likely make the home entertainment system usable by the non-technically-inclined... but they're 'spensive too. That, a few battery powered tools, and a couple smaller flashlights that operate off AAs is where the first batch of NiMHs that I bought ended up.

Yeah, doesn't everyone? Mine go through batteries fast enough that
they don't leak. I don't think I've had a set of batteries in a
remote last a year for decades.

I didn't do anything wrong with this one though, just happened to check

it and found the cells leaking. It was in my nightstand drawer in case

the power went out, lived in the glovebox of a car for a while before

that, but in any case was rarely used and the cells were still good. If

there was any "abuse" might be temperature extremes, but still...



A car is the worst environment for a battery that one can imagine.

It's amazing that starter batteries last as long as they do.


Agree somewhat, but the cells were still well charged, usually it is when they are discharged that they leak.

Heat is a killer. Do *NOT* store cordless tools in a garage.
Lead-acid chemistry is more tolerant that others but heat still
destroys car batteries. It's not cold that kills them. That's just
when you find out that the last summer did them in.

Worst part is I've bought literally dozens of NiMH AA and AAA cells in

an attempt to eradicate all alkalines from my life but haven't got

around to the few larger-cell devices yet. I'm going to have to do that

soon, as one of those devices is my Simpson 260, and if I lost that I'd

be mad. ("just take the batteries out when you're not using it" isn't a

viable strategy as it takes about 5-10 minutes to do so.)



There are many reasons I don't own a '260 but I get your point. I do

take the batteries out of my laser levels, and such. I probably only

use them once or twice a year and at ~$100 each, it's easier to pull

the batteries.

Well, I also have two Fluke meters that use 9V batteries... for some reason those don't seem to leak nearly as often as single cells though.

I've notices that, as well. Yes, I own a couple of Flukes and a pot
full of HFs. The HFs are bait. I've had a couple of Flukes run away
and not come home.

I tend to end up using one multimeter or other at least once a week, and in all cases removing the cells/batteries requires at least a screwdriver, so I'm thinking switching to NiMH is in the cards.

I may use mine at home once a year. They pay me too much to do
electronics on my time. ;-)

Sounds like a horror novel. Pull their hands
off, unscrew the nut, and pull the motor.
Gives me the shivers.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/8/2013 5:00 PM, wrote:

CY: Which is fine, if you have the skills to change out the clock
mechanism. Many folks don't.

Most are really simple. Pull off the hands, unscrew the nut around
the hub, pull motor - reverse the process. The motors are available
in many hobby type stores, for cheap.

On 9/8/2013 5:17 PM, wrote:
That's a viable strategy. I've had a long standing
discussion with a friend of mine regarding the "cheap
and disposable" vs. "quality but 'spensive" paradigm
when it comes to tools. I have a real Skil brand
circular saw, a Snap-On torque wrench, a Milwaukee
Sawzall, angle grinder, 1/2" drill, etc. Most of
his tools are from the Freight.


That might be true if the cheap tool actually works. I've bought
enough crap in my life to swear off cheap tools, forever. Saws that
don't cut straight to drills that don't. Even though I'm a DIYer, I
can't afford cheap tools.
CY: Some of the HF stuff actually works. The challenge is to find which
ones.


For flashlights around the house, anything works. Just salt enough of
them around that one will be within reach when the lights go out.

CY: The military talks about using your pistol to fight your way back to
your rifle. Rifle to fight back to your unit. The light in your pocket
helps find the real flash light in storage.


OTOH, if I were a cop, I'd probably want a nice 6x'D' Maglight. ;-)

CY: Real cops carry tasers, pistol, and so on. Rent a cops
and security guys like 6D mags for the plausible deniability.

The same discussion applies here. I like my Surefire
flashlight. There's really no economic justification for
having it, but it feels quality in the hand, the threads
are butter smooth, and I *know* deep down inside that if
it fails to work, that new cells will fix it, because
there's really no other failure mode that is likely.
But for what it cost, I could have bought four of the
TF lights, or a whole shedload of HF lights.

CY:Nice that someone out there has quality.


One of the HFs will more likely be within reach, too. ;-)


CY: Yeah, a HF in the hand beats....

BUT... when you make that decision, then you have
to use quality cells, because you don't want your
quality device to die a premature death because of
leaking cells.

The problem is that they all leak. The only advantage of the
expensive brands is the warranty. That's too late, IMO.

CY: I've had enough leak. You're right, none is exempt.


I hear you. I just do it occasionally. If I have a drawer full of
batteries, I just replace cells when I reach for the widget. I don't
store any batteries in more expensive gear (laser levels, DVMs, etc.)
that aren't in continuous use. I put new batteries in at every use
then pull and toss them when I put the tools away.

CY: You toss part used batteries? What a waste.


That, a
few battery powered tools, and a couple smaller flashlights
that operate off AAs is where the first batch of NiMHs that
I bought ended up.

CY: neat, I also use NiMH in my daily driver flash light.


Well, I also have two Fluke meters that use 9V batteries...
for some reason those don't seem to leak nearly as often as
single cells though.

I've notices that, as well. Yes, I own a couple of Flukes and a pot
full of HFs. The HFs are bait. I've had a couple of Flukes run away
and not come home.
CY: I like being able to have HF meter in nearly every tool box.
If I blow one up, let out the smoke, it's no big deal.


I tend to end up using one multimeter or other at least
once a week, and in all cases removing the cells/batteries
requires at least a screwdriver, so I'm thinking switching
to NiMH is in the cards.

I may use mine at home once a year. They pay me too much to do
electronics on my time. ;-)
CY: Good on you!

On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 18:11:31 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Sounds like a horror novel. Pull their hands
off, unscrew the nut, and pull the motor.
Gives me the shivers.

Better not change a tire. You'll have to screw your nuts onto studs
and tighten them as tightly as you can.

On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 18:20:32 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 9/8/2013 5:17 PM, wrote:
That's a viable strategy. I've had a long standing
discussion with a friend of mine regarding the "cheap
and disposable" vs. "quality but 'spensive" paradigm
when it comes to tools. I have a real Skil brand
circular saw, a Snap-On torque wrench, a Milwaukee
Sawzall, angle grinder, 1/2" drill, etc. Most of
his tools are from the Freight.


That might be true if the cheap tool actually works. I've bought
enough crap in my life to swear off cheap tools, forever. Saws that
don't cut straight to drills that don't. Even though I'm a DIYer, I
can't afford cheap tools.
CY: Some of the HF stuff actually works. The challenge is to find which
ones.

For varying values of "work", sure. OTOH, I'm looking seriously at
their steel tool chests. They seem to be very nice at a good price
point; very good roller slides for many hundreds less than the
competition.

For flashlights around the house, anything works. Just salt enough of
them around that one will be within reach when the lights go out.

CY: The military talks about using your pistol to fight your way back to
your rifle. Rifle to fight back to your unit. The light in your pocket
helps find the real flash light in storage.

....which has leaking batteries. ;-)

OTOH, if I were a cop, I'd probably want a nice 6x'D' Maglight. ;-)

CY: Real cops carry tasers, pistol, and so on. Rent a cops
and security guys like 6D mags for the plausible deniability.

You've never seen a real cop with a 2' Maglight? Traffic and state
cops all seem to carry them.
snip

I hear you. I just do it occasionally. If I have a drawer full of
batteries, I just replace cells when I reach for the widget. I don't
store any batteries in more expensive gear (laser levels, DVMs, etc.)
that aren't in continuous use. I put new batteries in at every use
then pull and toss them when I put the tools away.

CY: You toss part used batteries? What a waste.

Better than keeping them until they leak. That's the choice.

snip

I've notices that, as well. Yes, I own a couple of Flukes and a pot
full of HFs. The HFs are bait. I've had a couple of Flukes run away
and not come home.
CY: I like being able to have HF meter in nearly every tool box.
If I blow one up, let out the smoke, it's no big deal.


I tend to end up using one multimeter or other at least
once a week, and in all cases removing the cells/batteries
requires at least a screwdriver, so I'm thinking switching
to NiMH is in the cards.

I may use mine at home once a year. They pay me too much to do
electronics on my time. ;-)
CY: Good on you!

Dunno, work is fun but doing it at home, too, doesn't seem like so
much. I'd rather make sawdust. Same sorts of thinking but more of a
sense of accomplishment.

On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 19:50:42 -0400, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 18:11:31 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Sounds like a horror novel. Pull their hands
off, unscrew the nut, and pull the motor.
Gives me the shivers.

Better not change a tire.

No fears. Stormin' posted that he hires people to change his flats and
mow his lawn.

You'll have to screw your nuts onto studs
and tighten them as tightly as you can.

Strip the threads and back off half a turn.

On 09/08/2013 07:59 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 18:20:32 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 9/8/2013 5:17 PM, wrote:
That's a viable strategy. I've had a long standing
discussion with a friend of mine regarding the "cheap
and disposable" vs. "quality but 'spensive" paradigm
when it comes to tools. I have a real Skil brand
circular saw, a Snap-On torque wrench, a Milwaukee
Sawzall, angle grinder, 1/2" drill, etc. Most of
his tools are from the Freight.


That might be true if the cheap tool actually works. I've bought
enough crap in my life to swear off cheap tools, forever. Saws that
don't cut straight to drills that don't. Even though I'm a DIYer, I
can't afford cheap tools.
CY: Some of the HF stuff actually works. The challenge is to find which
ones.

For varying values of "work", sure. OTOH, I'm looking seriously at
their steel tool chests. They seem to be very nice at a good price
point; very good roller slides for many hundreds less than the
competition.


They do seem nice, I'd stay away from the ones with regular nylon slides
though. Of course I have a Crapsman cheapest of the cheap roll cabinet
for household tool storage that I think I paid $120 for both pieces and
despite my expectation that it would fall apart in a couple years it's
still together...!

For flashlights around the house, anything works. Just salt enough of
them around that one will be within reach when the lights go out.

CY: The military talks about using your pistol to fight your way back to
your rifle. Rifle to fight back to your unit. The light in your pocket
helps find the real flash light in storage.

...which has leaking batteries. ;-)

OTOH, if I were a cop, I'd probably want a nice 6x'D' Maglight. ;-)

CY: Real cops carry tasers, pistol, and so on. Rent a cops
and security guys like 6D mags for the plausible deniability.

You've never seen a real cop with a 2' Maglight? Traffic and state
cops all seem to carry them.
snip

I thought they'd all gone to Surefires a decade or so ago... and there's
better (at least brighter) lights available than either, or get a
Malkoff drop in...


I hear you. I just do it occasionally. If I have a drawer full of
batteries, I just replace cells when I reach for the widget. I don't
store any batteries in more expensive gear (laser levels, DVMs, etc.)
that aren't in continuous use. I put new batteries in at every use
then pull and toss them when I put the tools away.

CY: You toss part used batteries? What a waste.

Better than keeping them until they leak. That's the choice.

snip

I've notices that, as well. Yes, I own a couple of Flukes and a pot
full of HFs. The HFs are bait. I've had a couple of Flukes run away
and not come home.
CY: I like being able to have HF meter in nearly every tool box.
If I blow one up, let out the smoke, it's no big deal.


I tend to end up using one multimeter or other at least
once a week, and in all cases removing the cells/batteries
requires at least a screwdriver, so I'm thinking switching
to NiMH is in the cards.

I may use mine at home once a year. They pay me too much to do
electronics on my time. ;-)
CY: Good on you!

Dunno, work is fun but doing it at home, too, doesn't seem like so
much. I'd rather make sawdust. Same sorts of thinking but more of a
sense of accomplishment.


Eh, I seem to end up always doing electrical troubleshooting on some
ancient vehicle or other... was just helping a guy put a new wiring
harness in a Studebaker last weekend, having a meter helped me check
everything out before powering it up.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

After that, take the
jack off a car?

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/8/2013 7:50 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 18:11:31 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Sounds like a horror novel. Pull their hands
off, unscrew the nut, and pull the motor.
Gives me the shivers.

Better not change a tire. You'll have to screw your nuts onto studs
and tighten them as tightly as you can.

1) I can't say as I remember seeing cops with huge mag lights. Maybe I
don't go to enough bars in the middle of the night.

2) Third choice, save the part used batteries to give away to others.

3) Wood working is fun, also.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/8/2013 7:59 PM, wrote:


OTOH, if I were a cop, I'd probably want a nice 6x'D' Maglight. ;-)

CY: Real cops carry tasers, pistol, and so on. Rent a cops
and security guys like 6D mags for the plausible deniability.

You've never seen a real cop with a 2' Maglight? Traffic and state
cops all seem to carry them.
snip


CY: You toss part used batteries? What a waste.

Better than keeping them until they leak. That's the choice.

I may use mine at home once a year. They pay me too much to do
electronics on my time. ;-)
CY: Good on you!

Dunno, work is fun but doing it at home, too, doesn't seem like so
much. I'd rather make sawdust. Same sorts of thinking but more of a
sense of accomplishment.

On 09/08/2013 08:49 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 09/08/2013 07:59 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 18:20:32 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 9/8/2013 5:17 PM, wrote:
That's a viable strategy. I've had a long standing
discussion with a friend of mine regarding the "cheap
and disposable" vs. "quality but 'spensive" paradigm
when it comes to tools. I have a real Skil brand
circular saw, a Snap-On torque wrench, a Milwaukee
Sawzall, angle grinder, 1/2" drill, etc. Most of
his tools are from the Freight.


That might be true if the cheap tool actually works. I've bought
enough crap in my life to swear off cheap tools, forever. Saws that
don't cut straight to drills that don't. Even though I'm a DIYer, I
can't afford cheap tools.
CY: Some of the HF stuff actually works. The challenge is to find which
ones.

For varying values of "work", sure. OTOH, I'm looking seriously at
their steel tool chests. They seem to be very nice at a good price
point; very good roller slides for many hundreds less than the
competition.


They do seem nice, I'd stay away from the ones with regular nylon slides
though. Of course I have a Crapsman cheapest of the cheap roll cabinet
for household tool storage that I think I paid $120 for both pieces and
despite my expectation that it would fall apart in a couple years it's
still together...!

For flashlights around the house, anything works. Just salt enough of
them around that one will be within reach when the lights go out.

CY: The military talks about using your pistol to fight your way back to
your rifle. Rifle to fight back to your unit. The light in your pocket
helps find the real flash light in storage.

...which has leaking batteries. ;-)

OTOH, if I were a cop, I'd probably want a nice 6x'D' Maglight. ;-)

CY: Real cops carry tasers, pistol, and so on. Rent a cops
and security guys like 6D mags for the plausible deniability.

You've never seen a real cop with a 2' Maglight? Traffic and state
cops all seem to carry them.
snip

I thought they'd all gone to Surefires a decade or so ago... and there's
better (at least brighter) lights available than either, or get a
Malkoff drop in...


I hear you. I just do it occasionally. If I have a drawer full of
batteries, I just replace cells when I reach for the widget. I don't
store any batteries in more expensive gear (laser levels, DVMs, etc.)
that aren't in continuous use. I put new batteries in at every use
then pull and toss them when I put the tools away.

CY: You toss part used batteries? What a waste.

Better than keeping them until they leak. That's the choice.

snip

I've notices that, as well. Yes, I own a couple of Flukes and a pot
full of HFs. The HFs are bait. I've had a couple of Flukes run away
and not come home.
CY: I like being able to have HF meter in nearly every tool box.
If I blow one up, let out the smoke, it's no big deal.


I tend to end up using one multimeter or other at least
once a week, and in all cases removing the cells/batteries
requires at least a screwdriver, so I'm thinking switching
to NiMH is in the cards.

I may use mine at home once a year. They pay me too much to do
electronics on my time. ;-)
CY: Good on you!

Dunno, work is fun but doing it at home, too, doesn't seem like so
much. I'd rather make sawdust. Same sorts of thinking but more of a
sense of accomplishment.


Eh, I seem to end up always doing electrical troubleshooting on some
ancient vehicle or other... was just helping a guy put a new wiring
harness in a Studebaker last weekend, having a meter helped me check
everything out before powering it up.

nate


Follow up: Stopped by Micro Center today as I'd seen the Tenergy
Centura C, D, and 9V cells before. They still had 'em, prices in all
cases about $1/pack more than Amazon so I bought one of each and two 9V.
They've also started carrying the AA and AAA sizes.

Got lucky for once... went to change the 9Vs in my Flukes and the older
"backup" meter had an ancient Duracell in it, date on the case was 2004
(!!!) and it was decidedly bulgy but not leaking (and still working.)
The newer Fluke had a "Heavy Duty" 9V in it (carbon-zinc!) but it looked
fine and still had a charge on it, but it went bye-bye anyway. So no
worries there, I think the only devices that I now have with alkalines
still in it are my Simpson 260 (and I'll get that later today, but I
just changed the cells in it maybe 6 mos. ago so it should be good) and
a 4-D Mag-Lite that I just can't justify $40 worth of NiMH to switch
over - but if I can get the 3xAA to D adapters I will store my spare AAs
in it to kill two birds with one stone.

Now I need to acquire a charger that will charge the NiMH 9Vs... they
had the Tenergy brand chargers at Micro Center but most of them were
dumb timer-based chargers. They did have the Tenergy 9V only charger
which is a smart charger, but I'm trying to find a charger that will do
all sizes NiMH including C, D, and 9V and all smart, preferably able to
run off 120VAC and 12VDC; seems to be easier said than done however. My
Maha C9000 will do AA and AAA natively, C and D with adapters (but only
two at a time, and with limitations, so it's not real convenient save
for break in and reconditioning) and 9V not at all. The Tenergy 9V
charger won't work off 12VDC, but worst case the Maha 9V only charger will.

It is a little frustrating that I'm apparently having to become an
"expert" on NiMH batteries and chargers just to accomplish the simple
task of switching all my battery operated devices over to them... but I
don't want to repeat the experiences that I had a few years ago when
NiMH was newer and I just bought an Energizer brand dumb charger off the
shelf at a store; I was disappointed with the life of the cells I was
using and I'm sure that the charger was partly to blame, and at the same
time I was using non-LSD cells as that's what I could get in stores at
the time.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 20:49:13 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:

On 09/08/2013 07:59 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Sep 2013 18:20:32 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 9/8/2013 5:17 PM, wrote:
That's a viable strategy. I've had a long standing
discussion with a friend of mine regarding the "cheap
and disposable" vs. "quality but 'spensive" paradigm
when it comes to tools. I have a real Skil brand
circular saw, a Snap-On torque wrench, a Milwaukee
Sawzall, angle grinder, 1/2" drill, etc. Most of
his tools are from the Freight.


That might be true if the cheap tool actually works. I've bought
enough crap in my life to swear off cheap tools, forever. Saws that
don't cut straight to drills that don't. Even though I'm a DIYer, I
can't afford cheap tools.
CY: Some of the HF stuff actually works. The challenge is to find which
ones.

For varying values of "work", sure. OTOH, I'm looking seriously at
their steel tool chests. They seem to be very nice at a good price
point; very good roller slides for many hundreds less than the
competition.


They do seem nice, I'd stay away from the ones with regular nylon slides
though. Of course I have a Crapsman cheapest of the cheap roll cabinet
for household tool storage that I think I paid $120 for both pieces and
despite my expectation that it would fall apart in a couple years it's
still together...!

Yeah, a cabinet full of tools is pretty heavy. I've had several
kitchen drawers fall apart so I tend to overbuild (and overbuy)
everything. Repairing what shouldn't break ****es me off. I'd rather
be building something new (and it's easier ;-). I'm really afraid the
cheap cabinets will be more aggravation than they're worth.

For flashlights around the house, anything works. Just salt enough of
them around that one will be within reach when the lights go out.

CY: The military talks about using your pistol to fight your way back to
your rifle. Rifle to fight back to your unit. The light in your pocket
helps find the real flash light in storage.

...which has leaking batteries. ;-)

OTOH, if I were a cop, I'd probably want a nice 6x'D' Maglight. ;-)

CY: Real cops carry tasers, pistol, and so on. Rent a cops
and security guys like 6D mags for the plausible deniability.

You've never seen a real cop with a 2' Maglight? Traffic and state
cops all seem to carry them.
snip

I thought they'd all gone to Surefires a decade or so ago... and there's
better (at least brighter) lights available than either, or get a
Malkoff drop in...

They don't put nearly as good of a lump on the perps head as a 6xD
Maglight. It's not about light, rather the perp's lights out. ;-)

I hear you. I just do it occasionally. If I have a drawer full of
batteries, I just replace cells when I reach for the widget. I don't
store any batteries in more expensive gear (laser levels, DVMs, etc.)
that aren't in continuous use. I put new batteries in at every use
then pull and toss them when I put the tools away.

CY: You toss part used batteries? What a waste.

Better than keeping them until they leak. That's the choice.

snip

I've notices that, as well. Yes, I own a couple of Flukes and a pot
full of HFs. The HFs are bait. I've had a couple of Flukes run away
and not come home.
CY: I like being able to have HF meter in nearly every tool box.
If I blow one up, let out the smoke, it's no big deal.


I tend to end up using one multimeter or other at least
once a week, and in all cases removing the cells/batteries
requires at least a screwdriver, so I'm thinking switching
to NiMH is in the cards.

I may use mine at home once a year. They pay me too much to do
electronics on my time. ;-)
CY: Good on you!

Dunno, work is fun but doing it at home, too, doesn't seem like so
much. I'd rather make sawdust. Same sorts of thinking but more of a
sense of accomplishment.


Eh, I seem to end up always doing electrical troubleshooting on some
ancient vehicle or other... was just helping a guy put a new wiring
harness in a Studebaker last weekend, having a meter helped me check
everything out before powering it up.

Sure but I rarely do such things. I leave batteries in my Flukes
because they are hard to remove. Nothing else, though. Fortunately,
I haven't noticed any leaking.

On Mon, 09 Sep 2013 07:40:27 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

1) I can't say as I remember seeing cops with huge mag lights. Maybe I
don't go to enough bars in the middle of the night.

2) Third choice, save the part used batteries to give away to others.

So they can leak in their stuff?

3) Wood working is fun, also.

Nate Nagel posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

fortunately I already had my Surefire hanging
from my belt because I'm
planning on having to replace a friend's fuse panel in his car later
today so I looked spectacularly prepared

And you looked MARVELOUS


--
Tekkie

I must admit a certain sense of awe. After all,
a Surefire.... you really did make a total
fashion statement when you enter a room.

We've got to contact the fashion magazines, and
see if they pick up on the trend.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/9/2013 10:28 PM, Tekkie® wrote:
Nate Nagel posted for all of us...

fortunately I already had my Surefire hanging
from my belt because I'm
planning on having to replace a friend's fuse panel in his car later
today so I looked spectacularly prepared

And you looked MARVELOUS

On Tuesday, September 10, 2013 6:15:53 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I must admit a certain sense of awe. After all,

a Surefire.... you really did make a total

fashion statement when you enter a room.



We've got to contact the fashion magazines, and

see if they pick up on the trend.



This is what you get when you don't have a sense of reality! "After all,

a Surefire...you really DO make a total

fashion statement when you enter THE room".

On 09/10/2013 07:15 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I must admit a certain sense of awe. After all,
a Surefire.... you really did make a total
fashion statement when you enter a room.

We've got to contact the fashion magazines, and
see if they pick up on the trend.

.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

On 9/9/2013 10:28 PM, Tekkie® wrote:
Nate Nagel posted for all of us...

fortunately I already had my Surefire hanging
from my belt because I'm
planning on having to replace a friend's fuse panel in his car later
today so I looked spectacularly prepared

And you looked MARVELOUS



A Surefire, jeans and a black T-shirt, Red Wings, and the piece de
resistance, a Snap-On baseball cap.

It's a good thing I was at home with the power out, I didn't realize how
damn irresistable I looked until the power came back on and I got stuck
in front of a mirror for half an hour. If I'd actually gone outside
like that things could have been bad.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

You'd have papperazi behind every bush and corner.
The tabloids would go wild. Screaming head lines
for the next six to eight weeks. The Queen of
England would have been envious, she'd get no
tabloid exposure at all.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/10/2013 8:43 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:

A Surefire, jeans and a black T-shirt, Red Wings, and the piece de
resistance, a Snap-On baseball cap.

It's a good thing I was at home with the power out, I didn't realize how
damn irresistable I looked until the power came back on and I got stuck
in front of a mirror for half an hour. If I'd actually gone outside
like that things could have been bad.

nate

Nate Nagel posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP



On 9/9/2013 10:28 PM, Tekkie® wrote:
Nate Nagel posted for all of us...

fortunately I already had my Surefire hanging
from my belt because I'm
planning on having to replace a friend's fuse panel in his car later
today so I looked spectacularly prepared

And you looked MARVELOUS



A Surefire, jeans and a black T-shirt, Red Wings, and the piece de
resistance, a Snap-On baseball cap.

It's a good thing I was at home with the power out, I didn't realize how
damn irresistable I looked until the power came back on and I got stuck
in front of a mirror for half an hour. If I'd actually gone outside
like that things could have been bad.

nate

I think you need new batteries for your
"Surefire" because you are shooting blanks on this
one. You got Stumped looking where you don't want
him to look and soon you will have majik undies to
complete your fashion statement.

--
Tekkie