On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 09:09:04 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Friday, August 30, 2013 11:25:52 AM UTC-4, Robert Macy wrote:
On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 08:04:27 -0700, Norminn wrote:



...snip...

When I varnish furniture, I thin the first couple of coats to get it

level and into the grain....nice and smooth. I've never been able to

roll paint on walls without getting the shadow effect where the roller

edges go. I think I have one more room to paint; lifetime limit )

Kitchen/dining area with beadboard wainscoating.



Thank you for this confirmation. That is, it is my contention that *IF* it

doesn't work well to paint with a brush by making 'small' problems;

painting with a roller will just make 'large' problems. Those were my

experiences, too.


It seems like you're more interested in finding someone who
agrees with your unique "problem". Pros almost exclusively use rollers
for flat surfaces, eg walls, ceilings and achieve excellent
results, without roller marks. The exception would be if it
can be sprayed, eg new construction. Even then, I think many
of them back-roll it because it leaves a better finish than
just spraying. I can use a roller without leaving roller marks.
I think others here have said the same. You need a good quality
roller of the right nap, good paint, and the right technique.

I think the biggest reason for roller marks is poor technique and poor
paint. If you don't keep a wet line as you work across a wall, you
can get roller marks. Under less than ideal conditions (too hot or
too dry), crappy paint can dry too fast to keep a good wet line. Also,
edging too far ahead can cause roller marks for the same reason. Latex
paint forms a single film across the entire surface, if the wet line
is preserved.


Now back to possible solutions.

Three options:

1. paint, sand, paint, sand, paint with thin - a lot of work and time, but

comes out beautiful!

2. flow on coating ONCE - very difficult to do

3. paint, keep going. When tack free, coat again - VERY difficult to time

properly



With the surfaces along a very sunlit hallway, and the curved edges around

the four sliding doors to the outside, all being within inches of your

face; it is important to make look as good as possible.



Plus, another effect. There is a subtle change in the way the rooms look

when the walls are painted properly. Difficult to describe. Similar to

when rooms are clean; just subtly better.

I'd be looking at what most of the rest of the world is doing,
rather than re-inventing the wheel with a complicated, time
consuming process. If that Dunn Edwards paint dries so fast
out of the can that you can't brush it on, I for sure would not
be buying it again for starters. Maybe it's time to get some
Benjamin Moore, a Purdy roller and watch a few youtube videos
of pros.

+1

Cheap paint isn't worth the money "saved".

On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 08:25:52 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

Now back to possible solutions.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51RHT%2BmXPcL.jpg

Or:

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,20159698,00.html

On Friday, August 30, 2013 1:49:05 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 09:09:04 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:



On Friday, August 30, 2013 11:25:52 AM UTC-4, Robert Macy wrote:

On Sat, 24 Aug 2013 08:04:27 -0700, Norminn wrote:







...snip...



When I varnish furniture, I thin the first couple of coats to get it



level and into the grain....nice and smooth. I've never been able to



roll paint on walls without getting the shadow effect where the roller



edges go. I think I have one more room to paint; lifetime limit )



Kitchen/dining area with beadboard wainscoating.







Thank you for this confirmation. That is, it is my contention that *IF* it



doesn't work well to paint with a brush by making 'small' problems;



painting with a roller will just make 'large' problems. Those were my



experiences, too.





It seems like you're more interested in finding someone who

agrees with your unique "problem". Pros almost exclusively use rollers

for flat surfaces, eg walls, ceilings and achieve excellent

results, without roller marks. The exception would be if it

can be sprayed, eg new construction. Even then, I think many

of them back-roll it because it leaves a better finish than

just spraying. I can use a roller without leaving roller marks.

I think others here have said the same. You need a good quality

roller of the right nap, good paint, and the right technique.



I think the biggest reason for roller marks is poor technique and poor

paint. If you don't keep a wet line as you work across a wall, you

can get roller marks. Under less than ideal conditions (too hot or

too dry), crappy paint can dry too fast to keep a good wet line. Also,

edging too far ahead can cause roller marks for the same reason.

Agree with everything but the above. The normal procedure is
to edge around the whole room, let it dry, then come back
and roll the main area. You typically can't edge fast enough
so that it's not dry or half-dry by the time you get to roll it.
Not when you're cutting in to do a nice clean edge between
ceiling and wall, around windows, etc.
Also, switching back and forth from brush to roller, wastes time.
And it doesn't result in roller marks as long as you roll properly.





Latex

paint forms a single film across the entire surface, if the wet line

is preserved.





Now back to possible solutions.



Three options:



1. paint, sand, paint, sand, paint with thin - a lot of work and time, but



comes out beautiful!



2. flow on coating ONCE - very difficult to do



3. paint, keep going. When tack free, coat again - VERY difficult to time



properly







With the surfaces along a very sunlit hallway, and the curved edges around



the four sliding doors to the outside, all being within inches of your



face; it is important to make look as good as possible.







Plus, another effect. There is a subtle change in the way the rooms look



when the walls are painted properly. Difficult to describe. Similar to



when rooms are clean; just subtly better.



I'd be looking at what most of the rest of the world is doing,

rather than re-inventing the wheel with a complicated, time

consuming process. If that Dunn Edwards paint dries so fast

out of the can that you can't brush it on, I for sure would not

be buying it again for starters. Maybe it's time to get some

Benjamin Moore, a Purdy roller and watch a few youtube videos

of pros.



+1



Cheap paint isn't worth the money "saved".

wrote in message

I think the biggest reason for roller marks is poor
technique and poor paint. If you don't keep a wet line
as you work across a wall, you can get roller marks.

Also if you apply too much paint an/or push too hard with the roller.
Either causes extra paint to swuish out at the roller ends. If it happens,
roll over them lightly to spread the excess paint around.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

wrote in message

On Friday, August 30, 2013 1:49:05 PM UTC-4,
wrote:

edging too far ahead can cause roller marks for the
same reason.

Agree with everything but the above. The normal
procedure is
to edge around the whole room, let it dry, then come back
and roll the main area. You typically can't edge fast
enough
so that it's not dry or half-dry by the time you get to
roll it. Not when you're cutting in to do a nice clean
edge between
ceiling and wall, around windows, etc

Also, switching back and forth from brush to roller,
wastes time. And it doesn't result in roller marks as
long as you roll properly.


Right. And feather both brush and roller work to get a coat of even
thickness,



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 8/30/2013 3:02 PM, dadiOH wrote:
wrote in message

On Friday, August 30, 2013 1:49:05 PM UTC-4,
wrote:

edging too far ahead can cause roller marks for the
same reason.

Agree with everything but the above. The normal
procedure is
to edge around the whole room, let it dry, then come back
and roll the main area. You typically can't edge fast
enough
so that it's not dry or half-dry by the time you get to
roll it. Not when you're cutting in to do a nice clean
edge between
ceiling and wall, around windows, etc

Also, switching back and forth from brush to roller,
wastes time. And it doesn't result in roller marks as
long as you roll properly.


Right. And feather both brush and roller work to get a coat of even
thickness,


If you have two people, I've always preferred to do it where I cut in
with a brush and my helper is directly behind me with the roller.

Unfortunately, that won't help at all if you're painting by yourself.

nate

On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 15:49:03 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:

On 8/30/2013 3:02 PM, dadiOH wrote:
wrote in message

On Friday, August 30, 2013 1:49:05 PM UTC-4,
wrote:

edging too far ahead can cause roller marks for the
same reason.

Agree with everything but the above. The normal
procedure is
to edge around the whole room, let it dry, then come back
and roll the main area. You typically can't edge fast
enough
so that it's not dry or half-dry by the time you get to
roll it. Not when you're cutting in to do a nice clean
edge between
ceiling and wall, around windows, etc

Not my experience. I do a much better job if there aren't any dry
edges when painting a single surface.

Also, switching back and forth from brush to roller,
wastes time. And it doesn't result in roller marks as
long as you roll properly.


Right. And feather both brush and roller work to get a coat of even
thickness,


If you have two people, I've always preferred to do it where I cut in
with a brush and my helper is directly behind me with the roller.

Unfortunately, that won't help at all if you're painting by yourself.

I don't have any problem doing both. I generally use a pad to do the
edging (pad/roller give a more consistent surface than brush/roller).
I do about 6' of edging, top and bottom, then do the center with the
roller. At inside corners, I wrap around (feather) to the adjacent
wall and let it dry before coming back to finish that wall. I
generally do opposing walls so inside corners are dry when I start.

On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 14:58:01 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

wrote in message

I think the biggest reason for roller marks is poor
technique and poor paint. If you don't keep a wet line
as you work across a wall, you can get roller marks.

Also if you apply too much paint an/or push too hard with the roller.
Either causes extra paint to swuish out at the roller ends. If it happens,
roll over them lightly to spread the excess paint around.

I've seen occasions where rolling is over done. Folks roll the paint
out of the nap and cause obvious lines from the roller.

....put the paint on the wall, ceiling and do not over work the task at
hand.

Cite my guilty bride and her helper friend :-)

Folks overwork the paint application.

On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 10:51:02 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 08:25:52 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

Now back to possible solutions.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51RHT%2BmXPcL.jpg

Or:

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,20159698,00.html


Thank you for the URL. I always liked This Old House until they dumped Bob
Vila and went commercial. Met Bob Vila at a party once. Nice guy.

On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 11:51:38 -0700,
wrote:

...snip....
Agree with everything but the above. The normal procedure is
to edge around the whole room, let it dry, then come back
and roll the main area. You typically can't edge fast enough
so that it's not dry or half-dry by the time you get to roll it.
Not when you're cutting in to do a nice clean edge between
ceiling and wall, around windows, etc.
Also, switching back and forth from brush to roller, wastes time.
And it doesn't result in roller marks as long as you roll properly.

...snip...

You are correct to allow the paint to pretty much completely dry before
trying to overlap. Else, you get a 'gumming' that produces a slightly
different [and noticeable] texture change which shows through. But for
me, THAT technique does NOT work. My eye spots the overlap *and* the
change in texture between brush and roller.

Someone mentioned 'professional' painters to do this. Just making a living
at painting does not necessarily mean that the paint job meets the
standards required. I WAS a professional painter and because of skill was
the one who had to do all the detail/edging work. And I don't even like my
work.

From the descriptions here, pretty much confirm the problems I have and
sounds like what has been described would not stand up to 'close'
scrutiny. If you closely examine the described painting, you would see
what I mean. Wait until low light levels, take a hand held spotlight,
shine the light so that it 'grazes' along the surface; and look at your
paint jobs. Look at that cut in junction, look at those 'overlaps', they
all show up. Both my wife [a professional artist] and I 'see' these
patterns in normal light and for us they detract, thus the quest to paint
better. If you do the spotlight check on my paint jobs, you'll see a
'metal-flat' paint surface - no brush strokes, no marks, no divots in the
walls and edges. The effect in 'normal' light? Very subtle. Makes for a
'softer' look and the eye is not distracted away from the overall
architectural statement.

But thanks to everyone who jumped in to help solve my problem. I've
learned from many, got some great URLs and resources, and confirmation
that it takes work to get good results.

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 07:05:56 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

Someone mentioned 'professional' painters to do this. Just making a living
at painting does not necessarily mean that the paint job meets the
standards required. I WAS a professional painter and because of skill was
the one who had to do all the detail/edging work. And I don't even like my
work.

"Perfectionism, in psychology, is a personality trait characterized by
a person's striving for flawlessness and setting excessively high
performance standards ..."

Trying to be perfect can be frustrating.

Your work looks good from my house :-\

I thought of myself as a decent painter until I worked for a
professional -- he spent ten years as an apprentice painter. Learned
many things from him.

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 07:36:25 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 07:05:56 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

Someone mentioned 'professional' painters to do this. Just making a
living
at painting does not necessarily mean that the paint job meets the
standards required. I WAS a professional painter and because of skill
was
the one who had to do all the detail/edging work. And I don't even like
my
work.

"Perfectionism, in psychology, is a personality trait characterized by
a person's striving for flawlessness and setting excessively high
performance standards ..."

Trying to be perfect can be frustrating.

Your work looks good from my house :-\

I thought of myself as a decent painter until I worked for a
professional -- he spent ten years as an apprentice painter. Learned
many things from him.

Thank you for admiring my house from ??

Good training is worth its weight. You're very lucky. Like hit the ground
with your feet running, so to speak.

Don't get me wrong, about the 'perfectionism'. I still see the flaws, but
they're now ignorable and insignificant to us.

Interesting comment about "...excessively high performance standards ..."
ALL is relative. Who died and left them boss?

I thought I had high standards until ...I've been in homes of some, what
I'd call, extremely successful people, actually describe their homes more
like mansions. The workmanship was incredible, better than I can do, or
even have strived for. One [surprising to me] example, while admiring two
tone striping on outside columns - you wouldn't believe the quality of the
straight lines down/along the inside of the flutings! To have my host
proudly declare he had done that work personally! Wow! I guess his
attitude of doing things right carries into his business, too. He made a
lot of money, now relaxing in the fruits of his labors, by supplying
products based upon those high standards of perfection. I would rather
live like that than think in terms of 'it's good enough' or 'getting by'.

On Sunday, September 1, 2013 10:05:56 AM UTC-4, Robert Macy wrote:
On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 11:51:38 -0700,

wrote:



...snip....

Agree with everything but the above. The normal procedure is

to edge around the whole room, let it dry, then come back

and roll the main area. You typically can't edge fast enough

so that it's not dry or half-dry by the time you get to roll it.

Not when you're cutting in to do a nice clean edge between

ceiling and wall, around windows, etc.

Also, switching back and forth from brush to roller, wastes time.

And it doesn't result in roller marks as long as you roll properly.



...snip...



You are correct to allow the paint to pretty much completely dry before

trying to overlap. Else, you get a 'gumming' that produces a slightly

different [and noticeable] texture change which shows through. But for

me, THAT technique does NOT work. My eye spots the overlap *and* the

change in texture between brush and roller.



OK, I think everyone here probably agrees that there is a
difference in texture between the edging done with a brush
and the rest of the wall with a roller. It's just that you
have to look real close and be looking for it to notice it.
That's different than what I thought the original issue was,
which was either brush marks being unacceptable and a roller
leaving marks. I also would think it would be more noticeable
with deep colors, higher sheen, etc.

How about edging with one of the pads? I usually use a brush,
but I have tried them. Not sure I looked that closely, but
it would seem the pads might leave a finish more like a roller.
But maybe that's no good, because I think you ruled out a
roller because you say it leaves marks that are unacceptable
too. You may have such high standards for surface perfection
that only perfect surface prep followed by spray painting will
meet them. That's the only thing I can think of for getting
a surface without any texture, marks, etc due to the application,
ie what you'd get with a roller or brush. I think in the
painting world though, painters frequently back-roll after
spraying. They use one guy spraying to get the paint on
quick, another to roll. I'm guessing that the rolling helps
hide the normal imperfections in the drywall that you'd
otherwise see.

wrote in message

How about edging with one of the pads? I usually use a
brush, but I have tried them. Not sure I looked that
closely, but
it would seem the pads might leave a finish more like a
roller.

Closer to a brush than a roller IME.

But maybe that's no good, because I think you
ruled out a
roller because you say it leaves marks that are
unacceptable
too.

There are corner rollers. The trick - for OP - is to either learn to use a
roller without leaving marks or learn to accept them.

You may have such high standards for surface
perfection that only perfect surface prep followed by
spray painting will meet them. That's the only thing I
can think of for getting
a surface without any texture, marks, etc due to the
application, ie what you'd get with a roller or brush. I
think in the painting world though, painters frequently
back-roll after spraying. They use one guy spraying to
get the paint on
quick, another to roll. I'm guessing that the rolling
helps
hide the normal imperfections in the drywall that you'd
otherwise see.

That's what drywall texture is for. That and to hide less than stellar
taping/mudding

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 06:47:40 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 10:51:02 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 08:25:52 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

Now back to possible solutions.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51RHT%2BmXPcL.jpg

Or:

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,20159698,00.html


Thank you for the URL. I always liked This Old House until they dumped Bob
Vila and went commercial. Met Bob Vila at a party once. Nice guy.

I liked TOH *until* they hired Vila. He was nothing but a
distraction. They went commercial when they hired him.

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 12:57:38 -0700,
wrote:

...snip...
OK, I think everyone here probably agrees that there is a
difference in texture between the edging done with a brush
and the rest of the wall with a roller. It's just that you
have to look real close and be looking for it to notice it.
That's different than what I thought the original issue was,
which was either brush marks being unacceptable and a roller
leaving marks. I also would think it would be more noticeable
with deep colors, higher sheen, etc.

How about edging with one of the pads? I usually use a brush,
but I have tried them. Not sure I looked that closely, but
it would seem the pads might leave a finish more like a roller.
But maybe that's no good, because I think you ruled out a
roller because you say it leaves marks that are unacceptable
too. You may have such high standards for surface perfection
that only perfect surface prep followed by spray painting will
meet them. That's the only thing I can think of for getting
a surface without any texture, marks, etc due to the application,
ie what you'd get with a roller or brush. I think in the
painting world though, painters frequently back-roll after
spraying. They use one guy spraying to get the paint on
quick, another to roll. I'm guessing that the rolling helps
hide the normal imperfections in the drywall that you'd
otherwise see.


I've done the drywall so they have no imperfections, at least, down to not
very noticeable.

spray paint? indoors? hmmm now all I need is an 'ink-jet' type paint
sprayer that creates uniform size droplets so there is very little, if
any, fogging. Anybody make one? Maybe ultrasonic? piezo squirter? high
voltage spewing? pressure nozzles just don't cut it, becuase the
variation in droplet size is quite a wide statistical distribution, which
causes fogging. And centrifigal(sp?) throwing splatters is exactly that,
looks like a 'Pollock' painting.

Would there be a market for a truly 'fogless' paint sprayer?

RobertMacy writes:

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 12:57:38 -0700,
wrote:

...snip...
OK, I think everyone here probably agrees that there is a
difference in texture between the edging done with a brush
and the rest of the wall with a roller. It's just that you
have to look real close and be looking for it to notice it.
That's different than what I thought the original issue was,
which was either brush marks being unacceptable and a roller
leaving marks. I also would think it would be more noticeable
with deep colors, higher sheen, etc.

How about edging with one of the pads? I usually use a brush,
but I have tried them. Not sure I looked that closely, but
it would seem the pads might leave a finish more like a roller.
But maybe that's no good, because I think you ruled out a
roller because you say it leaves marks that are unacceptable
too. You may have such high standards for surface perfection
that only perfect surface prep followed by spray painting will
meet them. That's the only thing I can think of for getting
a surface without any texture, marks, etc due to the application,
ie what you'd get with a roller or brush. I think in the
painting world though, painters frequently back-roll after
spraying. They use one guy spraying to get the paint on
quick, another to roll. I'm guessing that the rolling helps
hide the normal imperfections in the drywall that you'd
otherwise see.


I've done the drywall so they have no imperfections, at least, down to
not very noticeable.

spray paint? indoors? hmmm now all I need is an 'ink-jet' type paint
sprayer that creates uniform size droplets so there is very little, if
any, fogging. Anybody make one? Maybe ultrasonic? piezo squirter?
high voltage spewing? pressure nozzles just don't cut it, becuase the
variation in droplet size is quite a wide statistical distribution,
which causes fogging. And centrifigal(sp?) throwing splatters is
exactly that, looks like a 'Pollock' painting.

Would there be a market for a truly 'fogless' paint sprayer?

Ink jet paint sprayer?

Interesting idea. If you could control the movement of the printer
over the wall, you could do some really interesting murals.

--
Dan Espen

On Mon, 02 Sep 2013 09:05:24 -0400, Dan Espen
wrote:

RobertMacy writes:

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 12:57:38 -0700,
wrote:

...snip...
OK, I think everyone here probably agrees that there is a
difference in texture between the edging done with a brush
and the rest of the wall with a roller. It's just that you
have to look real close and be looking for it to notice it.
That's different than what I thought the original issue was,
which was either brush marks being unacceptable and a roller
leaving marks. I also would think it would be more noticeable
with deep colors, higher sheen, etc.

How about edging with one of the pads? I usually use a brush,
but I have tried them. Not sure I looked that closely, but
it would seem the pads might leave a finish more like a roller.
But maybe that's no good, because I think you ruled out a
roller because you say it leaves marks that are unacceptable
too. You may have such high standards for surface perfection
that only perfect surface prep followed by spray painting will
meet them. That's the only thing I can think of for getting
a surface without any texture, marks, etc due to the application,
ie what you'd get with a roller or brush. I think in the
painting world though, painters frequently back-roll after
spraying. They use one guy spraying to get the paint on
quick, another to roll. I'm guessing that the rolling helps
hide the normal imperfections in the drywall that you'd
otherwise see.


I've done the drywall so they have no imperfections, at least, down to
not very noticeable.

spray paint? indoors? hmmm now all I need is an 'ink-jet' type paint
sprayer that creates uniform size droplets so there is very little, if
any, fogging. Anybody make one? Maybe ultrasonic? piezo squirter?
high voltage spewing? pressure nozzles just don't cut it, becuase the
variation in droplet size is quite a wide statistical distribution,
which causes fogging. And centrifigal(sp?) throwing splatters is
exactly that, looks like a 'Pollock' painting.

Would there be a market for a truly 'fogless' paint sprayer?

Ink jet paint sprayer?

Interesting idea. If you could control the movement of the printer
over the wall, you could do some really interesting murals.
Airless electrostatic would fit the bill better than an inkjet.

On Mon, 02 Sep 2013 09:05:24 -0400, Dan Espen
wrote:

RobertMacy writes:

On Sun, 01 Sep 2013 12:57:38 -0700,
wrote:

...snip...
OK, I think everyone here probably agrees that there is a
difference in texture between the edging done with a brush
and the rest of the wall with a roller. It's just that you
have to look real close and be looking for it to notice it.
That's different than what I thought the original issue was,
which was either brush marks being unacceptable and a roller
leaving marks. I also would think it would be more noticeable
with deep colors, higher sheen, etc.

How about edging with one of the pads? I usually use a brush,
but I have tried them. Not sure I looked that closely, but
it would seem the pads might leave a finish more like a roller.
But maybe that's no good, because I think you ruled out a
roller because you say it leaves marks that are unacceptable
too. You may have such high standards for surface perfection
that only perfect surface prep followed by spray painting will
meet them. That's the only thing I can think of for getting
a surface without any texture, marks, etc due to the application,
ie what you'd get with a roller or brush. I think in the
painting world though, painters frequently back-roll after
spraying. They use one guy spraying to get the paint on
quick, another to roll. I'm guessing that the rolling helps
hide the normal imperfections in the drywall that you'd
otherwise see.


I've done the drywall so they have no imperfections, at least, down to
not very noticeable.

spray paint? indoors? hmmm now all I need is an 'ink-jet' type paint
sprayer that creates uniform size droplets so there is very little, if
any, fogging. Anybody make one? Maybe ultrasonic? piezo squirter?
high voltage spewing? pressure nozzles just don't cut it, becuase the
variation in droplet size is quite a wide statistical distribution,
which causes fogging. And centrifigal(sp?) throwing splatters is
exactly that, looks like a 'Pollock' painting.

Would there be a market for a truly 'fogless' paint sprayer?

Ink jet paint sprayer?

Interesting idea. If you could control the movement of the printer
over the wall, you could do some really interesting murals.
There are airless electrostatic paint systems available that would
fit the bill.

On Mon, 02 Sep 2013 06:05:24 -0700, Dan Espen wrote:

...snip...
Ink jet paint sprayer?

Interesting idea. If you could control the movement of the printer
over the wall, you could do some really interesting murals.


Years ago, I met some entrepreneurials that took an Apple, concept of HP's
X-Y plotter grabbing ink colors, and combined all to make billboard
painting possible. But alas, Gannett was not as interested in it as we all
had hoped.

RobertMacy writes:

On Mon, 02 Sep 2013 06:05:24 -0700, Dan Espen wrote:

...snip...
Ink jet paint sprayer?

Interesting idea. If you could control the movement of the printer
over the wall, you could do some really interesting murals.

Years ago, I met some entrepreneurials that took an Apple, concept of
HP's X-Y plotter grabbing ink colors, and combined all to make
billboard painting possible. But alas, Gannett was not as interested
in it as we all had hoped.

Hmm, the billboard concept is dead with the advent of giant LCD screens
and something similar might happen to interior walls. I can imagine
LCD tiles that change at the whim of the owner.

Still paint on wall paper, murals, or special effects could be
interesting. I don't have the personality to go out and sell
something like that but it does sound pretty cool.

Right now I've got 3 rooms sponge painted and I'll probably do more.
Plain flat paint might become a thing of the past.

--
Dan Espen