I probably should have asked this question years ago, but I just
thought of it.

My 15", 3.25 HP Craftsman electric chainsaw has a built-in oiler, if
one pushes the rubber bulb with his thumb. But the oil chamber leaks
so I've been using aerosol oil. It's made mostly for motorcycle
chains, but I was told it's good for chainsaws too.

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain? Or the chain's teeth where they rub on the wood
being cut? Or both?

I always thought it was the first, but with that cottonwood tree
hanging over my yard (and now lying in the yard) I've probably done as
much cutting in two days as in the previous 10 years, so I shoulld
know the right answer by now.



(Actually, I would fill the oil chamber since I'm using the saw so
much right now -- even when it leaks out it only makes a little mess,
but it's empty again next time I need it -- , but I can't find the
non-aerosol chain oil and I keep forgetting to look again.)

micky writes:

I probably should have asked this question years ago, but I just
thought of it.

My 15", 3.25 HP Craftsman electric chainsaw has a built-in oiler, if
one pushes the rubber bulb with his thumb. But the oil chamber leaks
so I've been using aerosol oil. It's made mostly for motorcycle
chains, but I was told it's good for chainsaws too.

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain? Or the chain's teeth where they rub on the wood
being cut? Or both?

I always thought it was the first, but with that cottonwood tree
hanging over my yard (and now lying in the yard) I've probably done as
much cutting in two days as in the previous 10 years, so I shoulld
know the right answer by now.

(Actually, I would fill the oil chamber since I'm using the saw so
much right now -- even when it leaks out it only makes a little mess,
but it's empty again next time I need it -- , but I can't find the
non-aerosol chain oil and I keep forgetting to look again.)

The oil is supposed to end up on the chain.

Recently I made a trip to our local hardware store and they had
no chain oil in stock. I did some Googling around and read that
vegetable oil works. And it does seem to work pretty well.

Another thing I noticed after cleaning up some of the mess from
Sandy, frequent sharpening of the blade is a good idea.

--
Dan Espen

On 06/15/2013 04:52 PM, micky wrote:

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain?

Yes. Try not using some and watch the motor bog down as the friction
between the bar and the chain turn the both of them hot enough to cause
blisters.

Jon

micky wrote:
I probably should have asked this question years ago, but I just
thought of it.

My 15", 3.25 HP Craftsman electric chainsaw has a built-in oiler, if
one pushes the rubber bulb with his thumb. But the oil chamber leaks
so I've been using aerosol oil. It's made mostly for motorcycle
chains, but I was told it's good for chainsaws too.

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain? Or the chain's teeth where they rub on the wood
being cut? Or both?

I always thought it was the first, but with that cottonwood tree
hanging over my yard (and now lying in the yard) I've probably done as
much cutting in two days as in the previous 10 years, so I shoulld
know the right answer by now.



(Actually, I would fill the oil chamber since I'm using the saw so
much right now -- even when it leaks out it only makes a little mess,
but it's empty again next time I need it -- , but I can't find the
non-aerosol chain oil and I keep forgetting to look again.)

Hang the chainsaw on a nail using the small hole at the end of the bar.
With the bar facing up in storage the oil will stay in the saw's oil tank.

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

On Jun 15, 6:52*pm, micky wrote:
I probably should have asked this question years ago, but I just
thought of it.

My 15", 3.25 HP Craftsman electric chainsaw has a built-in oiler, if
one pushes the rubber bulb with his thumb. * But the oil chamber leaks
so I've been using aerosol oil. *It's made mostly for motorcycle
chains, but I was told it's good for chainsaws too.

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? * *The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain? *Or the chain's teeth where they rub on the wood
being cut? * Or both?

I always thought it was the first, but with that cottonwood tree
hanging over my yard (and now lying in the yard) I've probably done as
much cutting in two days as in the previous 10 years, so I shoulld
know the right answer by now.

(Actually, I would fill the oil chamber since I'm using the saw so
much right now *-- even when it leaks out it only makes a little mess,
but it's empty again next time I need it -- , but I can't find the
non-aerosol chain oil and I keep forgetting to look again.)

I have 2 electric chain saws, a 14" and a 16" that leak oil, so I
usually fill them just before I go to use the saw. But itis a pain in
the butt to have to stop to addoil just when I am planning on cutting
tree limbs or getting a log cut into sections to split for firewood.
THe only solution seems to be to keep the saws horixontal when not
using, but the room I have in my garage is better suited to hanging
them up with the chain end down and so the oil runs out. I slip a
newspaper bag over the chain before hanging each saw upright so at
least the oil is contained in the plastic bag. I would love to figure
out how to stop the leak, but everyone I know has that same exact
problem.

"Dan Espen" wrote in message
...

The oil is supposed to end up on the chain.

Recently I made a trip to our local hardware store and they had
no chain oil in stock. I did some Googling around and read that
vegetable oil works. And it does seem to work pretty well.

Another thing I noticed after cleaning up some of the mess from
Sandy, frequent sharpening of the blade is a good idea.

Most any kind of oil can be used. As it goes into the enviroment, you
really should use some that is biodegradable ( or what ever the buzz word
is ). It should not harm the enviroment.

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:30:46 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jun 15, 6:52*pm, micky wrote:
I probably should have asked this question years ago, but I just
thought of it.

My 15", 3.25 HP Craftsman electric chainsaw has a built-in oiler, if
one pushes the rubber bulb with his thumb. * But the oil chamber leaks
so I've been using aerosol oil. *It's made mostly for motorcycle
chains, but I was told it's good for chainsaws too.

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? * *The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain? *Or the chain's teeth where they rub on the wood
being cut? * Or both?

I always thought it was the first, but with that cottonwood tree
hanging over my yard (and now lying in the yard) I've probably done as
much cutting in two days as in the previous 10 years, so I shoulld
know the right answer by now.

(Actually, I would fill the oil chamber since I'm using the saw so
much right now *-- even when it leaks out it only makes a little mess,
but it's empty again next time I need it -- , but I can't find the
non-aerosol chain oil and I keep forgetting to look again.)

I have 2 electric chain saws, a 14" and a 16" that leak oil, so I
usually fill them just before I go to use the saw. But itis a pain in
the butt to have to stop to addoil just when I am planning on cutting
tree limbs or getting a log cut into sections to split for firewood.
THe only solution seems to be to keep the saws horixontal when not
using, but the room I have in my garage is better suited to hanging
them up with the chain end down and so the oil runs out. I slip a
newspaper bag over the chain before hanging each saw upright so at
least the oil is contained in the plastic bag. I would love to figure
out how to stop the leak, but everyone I know has that same exact
problem.

You and Willshak need to talk to each other. When you resolve things,
I'll do whatever you agree on.

"Ralph Mowery" writes:

"Dan Espen" wrote in message
...

The oil is supposed to end up on the chain.

Recently I made a trip to our local hardware store and they had
no chain oil in stock. I did some Googling around and read that
vegetable oil works. And it does seem to work pretty well.

Another thing I noticed after cleaning up some of the mess from
Sandy, frequent sharpening of the blade is a good idea.

Most any kind of oil can be used. As it goes into the enviroment, you
really should use some that is biodegradable ( or what ever the buzz word
is ). It should not harm the enviroment.

That's pretty much what I found through Google.
Not only does the oil end up in the environment,
it also ends up on your face and clothes.

Vegetable oil seems like a good choice.

--
Dan Espen

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 21:43:51 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Dan Espen" wrote in message
...

The oil is supposed to end up on the chain.

Recently I made a trip to our local hardware store and they had
no chain oil in stock. I did some Googling around and read that
vegetable oil works. And it does seem to work pretty well.

Another thing I noticed after cleaning up some of the mess from
Sandy, frequent sharpening of the blade is a good idea.

Most any kind of oil can be used.

Can I use PAM? I've been using the same aerosol can of PAM for 30
years now, since I only use it hoping the snow won't stick to the snow
shovel. Finishing this can is on my bucket list.


(Recently I finished a box of baking soda I've had in my 'fridge for
30 years. My 'fridge allegedly has a special surface that doesn't
absorb odors (enamel?) so I only used the baking soda to clean car
batteries. The rest of the time it just sits in the fridge. I'm so
happy to be rid of it. )

As it goes into the enviroment, you
really should use some that is biodegradable ( or what ever the buzz word
is ). It should not harm the enviroment.

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:30:46 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:



using, but the room I have in my garage is better suited to hanging
them up with the chain end down and so the oil runs out. I slip a
newspaper bag over the chain before hanging each saw upright so at
least the oil is contained in the plastic bag. I would love to figure
out how to stop the leak, but everyone I know has that same exact
problem.

Put it in an anti-gravity bag.

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 22:37:11 -0400, Dan Espen
wrote:

"Ralph Mowery" writes:

"Dan Espen" wrote in message
...

The oil is supposed to end up on the chain.

Recently I made a trip to our local hardware store and they had
no chain oil in stock. I did some Googling around and read that
vegetable oil works. And it does seem to work pretty well.

Another thing I noticed after cleaning up some of the mess from
Sandy, frequent sharpening of the blade is a good idea.

Most any kind of oil can be used. As it goes into the enviroment, you
really should use some that is biodegradable ( or what ever the buzz word
is ). It should not harm the enviroment.

That's pretty much what I found through Google.
Not only does the oil end up in the environment,
it also ends up on your face and clothes.

This chain oil is marked, I forget the words, but something that means
it doesn't get thrown off the chain. And that seems to be the case,
it doesn't get on me. But of course, it doesn't stay on the saw
forever or I wouldn't need to add more. I guess I can use PAM.
It's mostly canola oil. Origin of the name "Product of Arthur
Meyerhoff"


Vegetable oil seems like a good choice.

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:05:56 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 06/15/2013 04:52 PM, micky wrote:

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain?

Yes. Try not using some and watch the motor bog down as the friction
between the bar and the chain turn the both of them hot enough to cause
blisters.

Jon

Thanks. It's gotten pretty hot, but it's never slowed down, I think,
probably because the chain is very loose. I tried to tighten it
months ago and I don't remember what happened that it's still so
loose. I probably used the wrong technique.

But anyhow, I've been spraying the oil on the bar or the chain from
the side, and letting it run towards the edge of the bar, so this
means I've been doing that part the right way.


I'm about 3/4 done with my tree. There's still a small amount above
my head stuck in the bushes and a tree outside the fence, and there
are some logs too heavy for me to lift, or at least to throw over the
40" fence, across the 5' easement, and down into the stream bed.
These are two 8 or 10 foot pieces, so maybe tomorrow I'll cut them
short enough to throw.

I left about 12 or 15 feet of trunk still attached to the ground, and
it didn't pop up Tuesday, right after the rest of the tree was cut off
of it, but since Wednesday, it's gone from a 30^ angle to the ground
to a 45^ angle.

On Jun 15, 4:52*pm, micky wrote:
I probably should have asked this question years ago, but I just
thought of it.

My 15", 3.25 HP Craftsman electric chainsaw has a built-in oiler, if
one pushes the rubber bulb with his thumb. * But the oil chamber leaks
so I've been using aerosol oil. *It's made mostly for motorcycle
chains, but I was told it's good for chainsaws too.

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? * *The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain? *Or the chain's teeth where they rub on the wood
being cut? * Or both?

I always thought it was the first, but with that cottonwood tree
hanging over my yard (and now lying in the yard) I've probably done as
much cutting in two days as in the previous 10 years, so I shoulld
know the right answer by now.

(Actually, I would fill the oil chamber since I'm using the saw so
much right now *-- even when it leaks out it only makes a little mess,
but it's empty again next time I need it -- , but I can't find the
non-aerosol chain oil and I keep forgetting to look again.)

Lots of replies, some wrong information.

No, you cannot use 'use just any oil' Bar and chain oil has a special
additive to help it stay on the chain. It is ther to lubricate the
chain and bar. The 'stickum' is needed so the chain doesn't sling it
all off as it goes arund the nose of the bar.

You mention "it does get hot" somewhere - that's why, you are using
the wrong oil.

If you don't know how to adjust the chain, please have a dealer show
you or hang up the saw and don't use it. YOu ae abusing a fine piece
of equipment. Care/maintenance of a chainsaw is not rocket science.
Running a loose chain is begging for it to be thrown off and wrap
around some part of your body;.

Harry K

The oil does a couple things: Lubes where the chain touches the bar. Lubes the rivets, when the chain curves around the sprocket, and around the tip.

The bar oil that's made for that is a bit sticky, so it stays on better. I've heard that new motor oil is acceptable if needed. Used crank case oil will wear out the bar and chain, it's full of abrasive metal pieces.

Eco friendly is good. Be sure to use an oil that has come out of the ground, as it's going back into the ground.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message ...

Most any kind of oil can be used. As it goes into the enviroment, you
really should use some that is biodegradable ( or what ever the buzz word
is ). It should not harm the enviroment.

On 06/15/2013 08:00 PM, micky wrote:
On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:05:56 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 06/15/2013 04:52 PM, micky wrote:

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain?

Yes. Try not using some and watch the motor bog down as the friction
between the bar and the chain turn the both of them hot enough to cause
blisters.

Jon

Thanks. It's gotten pretty hot, but it's never slowed down, I think,
probably because the chain is very loose. I tried to tighten it
months ago and I don't remember what happened that it's still so
loose. I probably used the wrong technique.

But anyhow, I've been spraying the oil on the bar or the chain from
the side, and letting it run towards the edge of the bar, so this
means I've been doing that part the right way.

The right way is fixing whatever problem exists with the automatic
oiler. The bar oil should be continually provinding regular drops of
oil as you are cutting (you can check this by pointing the tip of the
bar at a piece of cardboard and looking for the fine splatter).

Jon

I doubt Pam will soak far enough in, to lube the rivets
and the bar surface. Just a SWAG.

I've heard of people use a spray can of teflon lube,
give it a squirt every several seconds during cutting.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"micky" wrote in message ...


Can I use PAM? I've been using the same aerosol can of PAM for 30
years now, since I only use it hoping the snow won't stick to the snow
shovel. Finishing this can is on my bucket list.

I've seen them on Amazon, and Ebay. Not all
that expensive, either. Made with 10% real
dilithium crystals. The good ones are fuzzy,
and warm because of the tribble skin coating.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message ...

least the oil is contained in the plastic bag. I would love to figure
out how to stop the leak, but everyone I know has that same exact
problem.

Put it in an anti-gravity bag.

On 6/16/2013 9:44 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I doubt Pam will soak far enough in, to lube the rivets
and the bar surface. Just a SWAG.

I've heard of people use a spray can of teflon lube,
give it a squirt every several seconds during cutting.
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
.
"micky" wrote in message ...


Can I use PAM? I've been using the same aerosol can of PAM for 30
years now, since I only use it hoping the snow won't stick to the snow
shovel. Finishing this can is on my bucket list.



Had an experience several years ago where I used an old can of Teflon
mold release to lube my bicycle chain. After a few weeks, the chain
started to rust. Apparently no oil in it to protect the chain from
moisture.

I believe in using a product designed for the use.

On Jun 16, 9:42*am, Jon Danniken
wrote:
On 06/15/2013 08:00 PM, micky wrote:





On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:05:56 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 06/15/2013 04:52 PM, micky wrote:

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? * *The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain?

Yes. *Try not using some and watch the motor bog down as the friction
between the bar and the chain turn the both of them hot enough to cause
blisters.

Jon

Thanks. * It's gotten pretty hot, but it's never slowed down, I think,
probably because the chain is very loose. *I tried to tighten it
months ago and I don't remember what happened that it's still so
loose. * I probably used the wrong technique.

But anyhow, I've been spraying the oil on the bar or the chain from
the side, and letting it run towards the edge of the bar, so this
means I've been doing that part the right way.

The right way is fixing whatever problem exists with the automatic
oiler. *The bar oil should be continually provinding regular drops of
oil as you are cutting (you can check this by pointing the tip of the
bar at a piece of cardboard and looking for the fine splatter).

Jon- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

From what he says, apparently it has a MANUAL oiling
system, not automatic. In which case it must be ancient,
because I've never seen one. Even my old 1970s Stihl
has an automatic oiler. And if it's that old, probably not
worth fixing, unless it's a simple DIY that requires no
parts. Personally, even if it was working, if it required
pushing a bulb periodically to oil it, IDK how you could
put up with that, except for very limited use. I recently
bought a new electric saw online for $80.

On Jun 16, 1:12*am, Harry K wrote:
On Jun 15, 4:52*pm, micky wrote:





I probably should have asked this question years ago, but I just
thought of it.

My 15", 3.25 HP Craftsman electric chainsaw has a built-in oiler, if
one pushes the rubber bulb with his thumb. * But the oil chamber leaks
so I've been using aerosol oil. *It's made mostly for motorcycle
chains, but I was told it's good for chainsaws too.

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? * *The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain? *Or the chain's teeth where they rub on the wood
being cut? * Or both?

I always thought it was the first, but with that cottonwood tree
hanging over my yard (and now lying in the yard) I've probably done as
much cutting in two days as in the previous 10 years, so I shoulld
know the right answer by now.

(Actually, I would fill the oil chamber since I'm using the saw so
much right now *-- even when it leaks out it only makes a little mess,
but it's empty again next time I need it -- , but I can't find the
non-aerosol chain oil and I keep forgetting to look again.)

Lots of replies, some wrong information.

No, you cannot use 'use just any oil' *Bar and chain oil has a special
additive to help it stay on the chain. *It is ther to lubricate the
chain and bar. *The 'stickum' is needed so the chain doesn't sling it
all off as it goes arund the nose of the bar.

You mention "it does get hot" somewhere - that's why, you are using
the wrong oil.

If you don't know how to adjust the chain, please have a dealer show
you or hang up the saw and don't use it. YOu ae abusing a fine piece
of equipment.

How do you know it's not a total piece of junk? The fact that
from what he says, it apparently has a manual oiler, one that
is leaking too, would suggest that it isn't a fine one.

Now I know why I read this group... I just learned something... I'm
headed to the garage now to hammer a nail in the wall.

On Jun 16, 7:00*am, "
wrote:
On Jun 16, 9:42*am, Jon Danniken
wrote:









On 06/15/2013 08:00 PM, micky wrote:

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:05:56 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 06/15/2013 04:52 PM, micky wrote:

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? * *The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain?

Yes. *Try not using some and watch the motor bog down as the friction
between the bar and the chain turn the both of them hot enough to cause
blisters.

Jon

Thanks. * It's gotten pretty hot, but it's never slowed down, I think,
probably because the chain is very loose. *I tried to tighten it
months ago and I don't remember what happened that it's still so
loose. * I probably used the wrong technique.

But anyhow, I've been spraying the oil on the bar or the chain from
the side, and letting it run towards the edge of the bar, so this
means I've been doing that part the right way.

The right way is fixing whatever problem exists with the automatic
oiler. *The bar oil should be continually provinding regular drops of
oil as you are cutting (you can check this by pointing the tip of the
bar at a piece of cardboard and looking for the fine splatter).

Jon- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

From what he says, apparently it has a MANUAL oiling
system, not automatic. *In which case it must be ancient,
because I've never seen one. *Even my old 1970s Stihl
has an automatic oiler. *And if it's that old, probably not
worth fixing, unless it's a simple DIY that requires no
parts. * *Personally, even if it was working, if it required
pushing a bulb periodically to oil it, IDK how you could
put up with that, except for very limited use. *I recently
bought a new electric saw online for $80.

I ran those old gear drives and some straight drives with manual
oilers. Not fun. Last one was in 1976 with my old man's X:!@. Dunno
how old that one was.

From Micky's posts he doesn't seem to know anything about chainsaws -
hope he doesn't harm himself cutting
up that tree.

Harry K

Harry K

On Jun 16, 7:05*am, "
wrote:
On Jun 16, 1:12*am, Harry K wrote:









On Jun 15, 4:52*pm, micky wrote:

I probably should have asked this question years ago, but I just
thought of it.

My 15", 3.25 HP Craftsman electric chainsaw has a built-in oiler, if
one pushes the rubber bulb with his thumb. * But the oil chamber leaks
so I've been using aerosol oil. *It's made mostly for motorcycle
chains, but I was told it's good for chainsaws too.

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? * *The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain? *Or the chain's teeth where they rub on the wood
being cut? * Or both?

I always thought it was the first, but with that cottonwood tree
hanging over my yard (and now lying in the yard) I've probably done as
much cutting in two days as in the previous 10 years, so I shoulld
know the right answer by now.

(Actually, I would fill the oil chamber since I'm using the saw so
much right now *-- even when it leaks out it only makes a little mess,
but it's empty again next time I need it -- , but I can't find the
non-aerosol chain oil and I keep forgetting to look again.)

Lots of replies, some wrong information.

No, you cannot use 'use just any oil' *Bar and chain oil has a special
additive to help it stay on the chain. *It is ther to lubricate the
chain and bar. *The 'stickum' is needed so the chain doesn't sling it
all off as it goes arund the nose of the bar.

You mention "it does get hot" somewhere - that's why, you are using
the wrong oil.

If you don't know how to adjust the chain, please have a dealer show
you or hang up the saw and don't use it. YOu ae abusing a fine piece
of equipment.

How do you know it's not a total piece of junk? *The fact that
from what he says, it apparently has a manual oiler, one that
is leaking too, would *suggest that it isn't a fine one.

Even old ancient saws are collector items. I'll bet he is also
running a dull chain.

Harry K

On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jun 16, 9:42*am, Jon Danniken
wrote:
On 06/15/2013 08:00 PM, micky wrote:





On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:05:56 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 06/15/2013 04:52 PM, micky wrote:

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? * *The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain?

Yes. *Try not using some and watch the motor bog down as the friction
between the bar and the chain turn the both of them hot enough to cause
blisters.

Jon

Thanks. * It's gotten pretty hot, but it's never slowed down, I think,
probably because the chain is very loose. *I tried to tighten it
months ago and I don't remember what happened that it's still so
loose. * I probably used the wrong technique.

But anyhow, I've been spraying the oil on the bar or the chain from
the side, and letting it run towards the edge of the bar, so this
means I've been doing that part the right way.

The right way is fixing whatever problem exists with the automatic

I think it's a manual oiler.

oiler. *The bar oil should be continually provinding regular drops of
oil as you are cutting (you can check this by pointing the tip of the
bar at a piece of cardboard and looking for the fine splatter).

I'm almost done now, but I found the chailn oil so, I may try this
(see following post)

Jon- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

From what he says, apparently it has a MANUAL oiling

That's what I thought. It has a rubber bulb, or half-bulb, that one
squeezes. I assume that is to oil the chain. Unless it's to oil the
chain at the start and it's automatic from then on, but that thought
never occurred to me until just now.

The bulb is built into the cap of the oil container.

I was wrong about the brand. It's a Remington, 16-inch, 3.25 HP.
Black plastic with a separate handle for the left hand.

system, not automatic. In which case it must be ancient,
because I've never seen one. Even my old 1970s Stihl
has an automatic oiler. And if it's that old, probably not
worth fixing, unless it's a simple DIY that requires no
parts. Personally, even if it was working, if it required
pushing a bulb periodically to oil it, IDK how you could
put up with that, except for very limited use. I recently
bought a new electric saw online for $80.

I only spray oil on it every 15 minutes of actual cutting, or maybe
less often. Beggars can't be choosers. In a way, I might be happy
if it broke, because I would buy a new replacement, complete with
instructions and, from what you say, automatic oiling.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 09:52:25 -0400, Frank
wrote:

On 6/16/2013 9:44 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I doubt Pam will soak far enough in, to lube the rivets
and the bar surface. Just a SWAG.

I've heard of people use a spray can of teflon lube,
give it a squirt every several seconds during cutting.
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
.
"micky" wrote in message ...


Can I use PAM? I've been using the same aerosol can of PAM for 30
years now, since I only use it hoping the snow won't stick to the snow
shovel. Finishing this can is on my bucket list.



Had an experience several years ago where I used an old can of Teflon
mold release to lube my bicycle chain. After a few weeks, the chain
started to rust. Apparently no oil in it to protect the chain from
moisture.

I believe in using a product designed for the use.

Makes sense. Despite what a couple guys here said, I decided against
vegetable oil in general. Might be slippery at room temperatures, but
the chain gets a lot hotter. Maybe it shouldn't but it does.


BTW, I remember now. This saw didnt' cut when I got it at the yard
sale. I wasn't in one of my stupid periods and I figured out pretty
quickly that the chain was on backwards, despite my lack of
experience.

On Jun 16, 8:19*pm, micky wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 09:52:25 -0400, Frank





wrote:
On 6/16/2013 9:44 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I doubt Pam will soak far enough in, to lube the rivets
and the bar surface. Just a SWAG.

I've heard of people use a spray can of teflon lube,
give it a squirt every several seconds during cutting.
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
* *www.lds.org
.
.
"micky" wrote in messagenews:7i9qr85q2u6raanus0kjo4vhj4sc59dive@4ax .com...

Can I use PAM? * *I've been using the same aerosol can of PAM for 30
years now, since I only use it hoping the snow won't stick to the snow
shovel. * Finishing this can is on my bucket list.

Had an experience several years ago where I used an old can of Teflon
mold release to lube my bicycle chain. *After a few weeks, the chain
started to rust. *Apparently no oil in it to protect the chain from
moisture.

I believe in using a product designed for the use.

Makes sense. * Despite what a couple guys here said, I decided against
vegetable oil in general. *Might be slippery at room temperatures, but
the chain gets a lot hotter. *Maybe it shouldn't but it does.

So what? Vegetable oil isn't slippery anymore just because it
gets hotter? I still have an old gallon of Stihl bar oil from
decades ago. Says right on the container it's soybean oil.
I'm sure they put some other additives in it to improve the
performance. I wouldn't put straight
veg oil in a brand new Stihl that I was using everyday.
But for some crappy old electric craftsman, that is leaking
oil, has a manual oil system, that I picked up for $10
at a yard sale, I sure would.

On Jun 16, 8:11*pm, micky wrote:
On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Jun 16, 9:42*am, Jon Danniken
wrote:
On 06/15/2013 08:00 PM, micky wrote:

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:05:56 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 06/15/2013 04:52 PM, micky wrote:

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? * *The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain?

Yes. *Try not using some and watch the motor bog down as the friction
between the bar and the chain turn the both of them hot enough to cause
blisters.

Jon

Thanks. * It's gotten pretty hot, but it's never slowed down, I think,
probably because the chain is very loose. *I tried to tighten it
months ago and I don't remember what happened that it's still so
loose. * I probably used the wrong technique.

But anyhow, I've been spraying the oil on the bar or the chain from
the side, and letting it run towards the edge of the bar, so this
means I've been doing that part the right way.

The right way is fixing whatever problem exists with the automatic

I think it's a manual oiler.

oiler. *The bar oil should be continually provinding regular drops of
oil as you are cutting (you can check this by pointing the tip of the
bar at a piece of cardboard and looking for the fine splatter).

I'm almost done now, but I found the chailn oil so, I may try this
(see following post)



Jon- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

From what he says, apparently it has a MANUAL oiling

That's what I thought. * It has a rubber bulb, or half-bulb, that one
squeezes. *I assume that is to oil the chain. *Unless it's to oil the
chain at the start and it's automatic from then on, but that thought
never occurred to me until just now.

The bulb is built into the cap of the oil container.

I was wrong about the brand. *It's a Remington, 16-inch, 3.25 HP.
Black plastic with a separate handle for the left hand.

system, not automatic. *In which case it must be ancient,
because I've never seen one. *Even my old 1970s Stihl
has an automatic oiler. *And if it's that old, probably not
worth fixing, unless it's a simple DIY that requires no
parts. * *Personally, even if it was working, if it required
pushing a bulb periodically to oil it, IDK how you could
put up with that, except for very limited use. *I recently
bought a new electric saw online for $80.

I only spray oil on it every 15 minutes of actual cutting, or maybe
less often.

Ummm, given that auto-oilers put out oil constantly, very
slowly, that sounds like a real bad idea. I've never had a
manual oiler, but I would suspect that you have to get oil
on it a lot more often than every 15 mins. I would think
more like every few minutes. And putting more on each
time isn't going to do much good, it will just fly off.




Beggars can't be choosers. * In a way, I might be happy
if it broke, because I would buy a new replacement, complete with
instructions and, from what you say, automatic oiling.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Jun 16, 8:02*pm, "
wrote:
On Jun 16, 8:11*pm, micky wrote:





On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT), "

wrote:
On Jun 16, 9:42*am, Jon Danniken
wrote:
On 06/15/2013 08:00 PM, micky wrote:

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:05:56 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 06/15/2013 04:52 PM, micky wrote:

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? * *The rubbing area between the
bar and the chain?

Yes. *Try not using some and watch the motor bog down as the friction
between the bar and the chain turn the both of them hot enough to cause
blisters.

Jon

Thanks. * It's gotten pretty hot, but it's never slowed down, I think,
probably because the chain is very loose. *I tried to tighten it
months ago and I don't remember what happened that it's still so
loose. * I probably used the wrong technique.

But anyhow, I've been spraying the oil on the bar or the chain from
the side, and letting it run towards the edge of the bar, so this
means I've been doing that part the right way.

The right way is fixing whatever problem exists with the automatic

I think it's a manual oiler.

oiler. *The bar oil should be continually provinding regular drops of
oil as you are cutting (you can check this by pointing the tip of the
bar at a piece of cardboard and looking for the fine splatter).

I'm almost done now, but I found the chailn oil so, I may try this
(see following post)

Jon- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

From what he says, apparently it has a MANUAL oiling

That's what I thought. * It has a rubber bulb, or half-bulb, that one
squeezes. *I assume that is to oil the chain. *Unless it's to oil the
chain at the start and it's automatic from then on, but that thought
never occurred to me until just now.

The bulb is built into the cap of the oil container.

I was wrong about the brand. *It's a Remington, 16-inch, 3.25 HP.
Black plastic with a separate handle for the left hand.

system, not automatic. *In which case it must be ancient,
because I've never seen one. *Even my old 1970s Stihl
has an automatic oiler. *And if it's that old, probably not
worth fixing, unless it's a simple DIY that requires no
parts. * *Personally, even if it was working, if it required
pushing a bulb periodically to oil it, IDK how you could
put up with that, except for very limited use. *I recently
bought a new electric saw online for $80.

I only spray oil on it every 15 minutes of actual cutting, or maybe
less often.

Ummm, given that auto-oilers put out oil constantly, very
slowly, that sounds like a real bad idea. *I've never had a
manual oiler, but I would suspect that you have to get oil
on it a lot more often than every 15 mins. * I would think
more like every few minutes. *And putting more on each
time isn't going to do much good, it will just fly off.

Beggars can't be choosers. * In a way, I might be happy



if it broke, because I would buy a new replacement, complete with
instructions and, from what you say, automatic oiling.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I also have a Remington electric with the half-dome rubber bulb in the
middle of the oil filler cap. I always squirt some oil before
starting to cut, and then can sort of tell by the sound when it is
not actually cutting if it needs more oil, besides what ever drips out
from the auto-oiler. The noise levels doesn't get louder so much as
it just sounds different.

On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 18:57:37 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

In a way, I might be happy
if it broke, because I would buy a new replacement, complete with
instructions and, from what you say, automatic oiling.

I also have a Remington electric with the half-dome rubber bulb in the
middle of the oil filler cap. I always squirt some oil before
starting to cut, and then can sort of tell by the sound when it is
not actually cutting if it needs more oil, besides what ever drips out
from the auto-oiler. The noise levels doesn't get louder so much as
it just sounds different.

Thanks. I will try that.

Glad I'm not the only one to do that backwards
chain snafu.

I also heard of a worker who smoked a drill bit
badly. Turns out hubby had been using the drill
to remove screws, and it was spinning left. Most
drill bits go right, in the northern hemisphere.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"micky" wrote in message ...


Makes sense. Despite what a couple guys here said, I decided against
vegetable oil in general. Might be slippery at room temperatures, but
the chain gets a lot hotter. Maybe it shouldn't but it does.


BTW, I remember now. This saw didnt' cut when I got it at the yard
sale. I wasn't in one of my stupid periods and I figured out pretty
quickly that the chain was on backwards, despite my lack of
experience.

On Sunday, June 16, 2013 10:30:48 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Glad I'm not the only one to do that backwards

chain snafu.



I also heard of a worker who smoked a drill bit

badly. Turns out hubby had been using the drill

to remove screws, and it was spinning left. Most

drill bits go right, in the northern hemisphere.

I've never ever had anybody hand me a drill without reversing it first. So I return the favor every chance I get. It's part of the Guy Code.

"TimR" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, June 16, 2013 10:30:48 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Glad I'm not the only one to do that backwards

chain snafu.



I also heard of a worker who smoked a drill bit

badly. Turns out hubby had been using the drill

to remove screws, and it was spinning left. Most

drill bits go right, in the northern hemisphere.

I've never ever had anybody hand me a drill without reversing it first.
So I return the favor every chance I get. It's part of the Guy Code.

I handed a battery powered drill to a woman mechanic where I worked with it
set in reverse.She was not hitting on much as the smarts go, but got the job
as part of the political system. She only had to drill one 1/4 inch hole in
some cast iron about 1/4 of an inch thick. She drilled for a while and
then mentioned something about a switch on the top of the drill. I told
here to turn it. It was a speed switch. It slowed down . After about 30
seconds she said it was not doing as good as the first way, so I told her to
turn it back.

It looked like it was going to rain ( we were outside) so I told her to look
under the drill at the other switch (the reversing one) and change it and
see what hapens. She finally did get the hole drilled. There were several
others looking on and snikering at her.

On Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:42:02 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Used crank case oil will wear out the bar and chain, it's full of abrasive metal pieces.

Bull****.

If used motor oil were full of abrasive metal pieces, your car's engine wouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

The used motor oil was good enough for a close-tolerance multi-cylinder reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

On Jun 17, 8:05*am, wrote:
On Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:42:02 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Used crank case oil will wear out the bar and chain, it's full of abrasive metal pieces.

Bull****.

If used motor oil were full of abrasive metal pieces, your car's engine wouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

The used motor oil was good enough for a close-tolerance multi-cylinder reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

Thanks for posting that. I have seen the "full of abrasives and metal
pieces" many times and thought it was pretty asinine.

Harry K

On 6/17/2013 11:05 AM, wrote:
On Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:42:02 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Used crank case oil will wear out the bar and chain, it's full of abrasive metal pieces.

Bull****.

If used motor oil were full of abrasive metal pieces, your car's engine wouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

The used motor oil was good enough for a close-tolerance multi-cylinder reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.


Using old drain oil is penny wise and pound foolish! But hey, it's your
saw!

My anecdotal evidence is that my friend Jerry, used to live a couple hours drive south of me. He used bar oil, and the neighbor used crank case oil. The neighbor's chains wore out a lot faster.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
wrote in message ...
On Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:42:02 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Used crank case oil will wear out the bar and chain, it's full of abrasive metal pieces.

Bull****.

If used motor oil were full of abrasive metal pieces, your car's engine wouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

The used motor oil was good enough for a close-tolerance multi-cylinder reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

That's a brief, and to the point way to describe it.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"Big Al" wrote in message ...

The used motor oil was good enough for a close-tolerance multi-cylinder reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.


Using old drain oil is penny wise and pound foolish! But hey, it's your
saw!

On Jun 18, 5:25*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
My anecdotal evidence is that my friend Jerry, used to live a couple hours drive south of me. He used bar oil, and the neighbor used crank case oil. The neighbor's chains wore out a lot faster.
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
* *www.lds.org
.
.

wrote in ...
On Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:42:02 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Used crank case oil will wear out the bar and chain, it's full of abrasive metal pieces.

Bull****.

If used motor oil were full of abrasive metal pieces, your car's engine wouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

The used motor oil was good enough for a close-tolerance multi-cylinder reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

Now there is firm scientific evidence...but mine cancels yours. I use
bar oil and my chains wear out faster than my neighbors. Iwond if my
cutting 10+ cord/yr and him only using his saw to trim stuff around
the yard would have anything to do with it...hmmm?

Anecdotal evidence is only good for laughs.

Harry K

On Tue, 18 Jun 2013 07:12:33 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jun 18, 5:25*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
My anecdotal evidence is that my friend Jerry, used to live a couple hours drive south of me. He used bar oil, and the neighbor used crank case oil. The neighbor's chains wore out a lot faster.
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
* *www.lds.org
.
.

wrote in ...
On Sunday, June 16, 2013 9:42:02 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Used crank case oil will wear out the bar and chain, it's full of abrasive metal pieces.

Bull****.

If used motor oil were full of abrasive metal pieces, your car's engine wouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

The used motor oil was good enough for a close-tolerance multi-cylinder reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

Now there is firm scientific evidence...but mine cancels yours. I use
bar oil and my chains wear out faster than my neighbors. Iwond if my
cutting 10+ cord/yr and him only using his saw to trim stuff around
the yard would have anything to do with it...hmmm?

Anecdotal evidence is only good for laughs.

Harry K

Stormin never said his was anything but anecdotal. Heck, 90% of what's
posted here is anecdotal when you get down to it. Sometimes that's
all ya got.