On Thu, 16 May 2013 05:09:30 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:


Mounting a box,even a "water proof" box, on the ground
when an easy alternative exists is a bad idea.

I've never wired using conduit before, so I can use all the suggestions
I can get; however, I must have missed alternative mounting ideas.

um, a couple that came up...

- replace two short runs with new longer ones back to the control box
/ breaker ( you had a roll of flex conduit)

- box on the wall

I kept asking about the conduits on the wall; a flex elbow, an empty
1/2" metal conduit. (forget the brace)

On Thu, 16 May 2013 05:14:31 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

How does it sound to put it on a thick block of wood?

Or is there a better way to raise it off the concrete?

Drill a hole in the pad. Then drive a solid metal rod vertical and add
copious amounts of duct tape.

Or find an easy way to attach the box to the rod.

Just sayin'

On May 16, 11:54*am, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2013 04:14:18 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

It's mostly done. Thanks for all the advice. I learned a lot.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045434.jpg

Golly Gee Danny. The octopus has grown

You can get to the strainer baskets easier and remove the tops, IF you
don't trip over that thing. You still have to bonding wire to connect.

Don't trip, okay?

Not to get critical, but I can't help but wonder at his
choice of locations for elbows. Like why they are used
at the top of the pic, where it looks like the conduit could
have gone straight in. An elbow on the motor on the
right and an elbow where the left motor conduit enters the
box would seem more logical.

On Wed, 15 May 2013 21:40:37 -0700 (PDT), DD_BobK
wrote:

On May 15, 2:17*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 11:27:36 -0700, Oren wrote:
something tells me the box has be a certain height above the ground
surface. Given the location for potential flooding, electrical power and
that kind of stuff.

I had asked and the answer came back that it's to code to put the box
on the concrete outside, as long as I use waterproof connections and a
waterproof cover (all of which I already purchased).

Danny-

Try listening to the guys in the newsgroup.... remember the code is a
minimum standard.
Mounting a box,even a "water proof" box, on the ground when an easy
alternative exists is a bad idea.

He has said that if he had to cut a Jandy valve out, I think he said
that! The pool would drain 500 gallons of water upon his soul.
Something like that, er.

On Thu, 16 May 2013 05:34:50 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

So, the end result is that the original conduit and both sides of the
elbow were actually nominally half inch sizes all along!

Well, there you have it.

.... take it to the person on isle 5: "Give me one of these."

On Thu, 16 May 2013 09:13:40 -0700, Oren wrote:

Drill a hole in the pad. Then drive a solid metal rod vertical

I've decided to elevate it an inch or two up on concrete.
I'll snap a photo when done to show it to you.

On Thu, 16 May 2013 09:15:33 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On May 16, 11:54*am, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2013 04:14:18 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

It's mostly done. Thanks for all the advice. I learned a lot.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045434.jpg

Golly Gee Danny. The octopus has grown

You can get to the strainer baskets easier and remove the tops, IF you
don't trip over that thing. You still have to bonding wire to connect.

Don't trip, okay?

Not to get critical, but I can't help but wonder at his
choice of locations for elbows. Like why they are used
at the top of the pic, where it looks like the conduit could
have gone straight in. An elbow on the motor on the
right and an elbow where the left motor conduit enters the
box would seem more logical.

The OP had his mind made up. See If I can help.

Danny -

- Disconnect the bottom right wire out from the box. Flip it to the
backside of the motor, around the strainer basket backside, under the
union.

How far does it stretch beyond left of the right side pump.

Move the box and the 3 flex tubes, up & back, over, or what makes you
happy.

This will open up a trip free zone :-\

On Thu, 16 May 2013 10:09:26 -0700, Oren wrote:

The pool would drain 500 gallons of water upon his soil.

Actually, it would drain about 40,000 gallons, because the pool equipment
is 8 feet below the waterline, and the pool is only about 9 feet deep.

On Thu, 16 May 2013 08:26:33 -0700, Oren wrote:

You had new flex conduit. Doing so would've prevented having a box.

But I *wanted* the junction box!

For two reasons:
a) Ease of disconnection
b) Freedom to swap in emergencies

With the four new unions and the junction box, I now can move the pumps
and motors about if/when I need to. There are other similar pumps on the
property (e.g., for the koi pond that is currently a koi swamp due to the
pump being out of commission - but that's another story).

I've been pining for that junction box ever since I first started taking
the motors off to fix them.

On Thu, 16 May 2013 11:18:04 -0700, Oren wrote:

... take it to the person on isle 5: "Give me one of these."

I did exactly that at Home Depot today, and the guy came up with these
nice new two-piece conduit connectors. I also bought extra long lengths
of the 10 AWG wire, as recommended, to replace that which I put in
yesterday:

http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13054955.jpg

Note: I did try to find insulated male & female spade connectors; but
they didn't have any for 220 volts and 10 AWG stranded wire; so I'll be
using the waterproof wire nuts with di-electric grease instead, on a
waterproofed junction box on an extra two inches of concrete to keep it
high (although the concrete pad itself is two inches off the ground).

On Thu, 16 May 2013 07:25:01 -0700, wrote:

You're right, they don't work well for threaded connections.

In hindsight, I should have shopped around more for a non-threaded
junction box, but no hardware store I went to had any.

On Thu, 16 May 2013 08:54:05 -0700, Oren wrote:

Don't trip, okay?

I did specifically plan the location of the cleaner pump (the one at 45°)
so that not only did the pipes not run over the top of the basket, but
that I could get my (rather large) body all around it to service the
heater and the other pumps.

So, while the octopus has grown, it now has the advantage of:
a) Must easier access to the baskets and pump
b) Easy disconnection of the pump and wiring
c) Re-use of one pump for another with only minor effort

On Thu, 16 May 2013 09:15:33 -0700, wrote:

An elbow on the motor on the right and an elbow where the left motor
conduit enters the box would seem more logical.

That was a compromise.

Having lived the horrors of threaded elbows, I had intended on replacing
all the elbows with straight-through connections instead.

However, I then realized I strongly disliked *all* the straight-through
connections also (none seem particularly water tight) ... so I decided to
keep the original elbows, which, at least, were clearly water tight.

In hindsight, were I to rip it all up and start again:
a) I'd have bought a non-threaded junction box!
b) I would have use straight-through connections at the junction box
c) And, at the motor, I would have drilled out the threads and used a non-
threaded elbow so that it could easily be removed simply by removing the
nut.

On Thu, 16 May 2013 19:31:08 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Thu, 16 May 2013 10:09:26 -0700, Oren wrote:

The pool would drain 500 gallons of water upon his soil.


Do not change what I said. I said soul and you came with soil.

Actually, it would drain about 40,000 gallons, because the pool equipment
is 8 feet below the waterline, and the pool is only about 9 feet deep.

Must be that fancy California stuff.

On May 16, 9:15*am, "
wrote:
On May 16, 11:54*am, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 16 May 2013 04:14:18 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

It's mostly done. Thanks for all the advice. I learned a lot.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045434.jpg

Golly Gee Danny. The octopus has grown

You can get to the strainer baskets easier and remove the tops, IF you
don't trip over that thing. You still have to bonding wire to connect.

Don't trip, okay?

Not to get critical, but I can't help but wonder at his
choice of locations for elbows. * Like why they are used
at the top of the pic, where it looks like the conduit could
have gone straight in. *An elbow on the motor on the
right and an elbow where the left motor conduit enters the
box would seem more logical.


Not to get critical, but I can't help but wonder at his
choice of locations for elbows. * Like why they are used
at the top of the pic, where it looks like the conduit could
have gone straight in. *An elbow on the motor on the
right and an elbow where the left motor conduit enters the
box would seem more logical.

+1

I don't understand.... why the new box at all??
Just run new conduit & new conductors all from the control panel.
No box on the slab. No intermediate connections.

Now he's got a hacked up fix to an original hack job..... at least
consistency is being maintained.

On May 16, 12:39*pm, "Danny D." wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2013 11:18:04 -0700, Oren wrote:
... take it to the person on isle 5: *"Give me one of these."

I did exactly that at Home Depot today, and the guy came up with these
nice new two-piece conduit connectors. I also bought extra long lengths
of the 10 AWG wire, as recommended, to replace that which I put in
yesterday:

*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13054955.jpg

Note: I did try to find insulated male & female spade connectors; but
they didn't have any for 220 volts and 10 AWG stranded wire; so I'll be
using the waterproof wire nuts with di-electric grease instead, on a
waterproofed junction box on an extra two inches of concrete to keep it
high (although the concrete pad itself is two inches off the ground).

If the box is waterproof why the need for waterproof wire nuts?
If the box was mounted on a post.... it would never get water inside
If the box didn't exist...you wouldn't need to mount it or use wire
nuts.

Are you learning....your way of doing things makes more work for you &
achieves subpar results.

On Thu, 16 May 2013 22:26:49 -0700, DD_BobK wrote:

choice of locations for elbows. Â* Like why they are used at the top of
the pic, where it looks like the conduit could have gone straight in.
Â*An elbow on the motor on the right and an elbow where the left motor
conduit enters the box would seem more logical.

I took (most of) your advice and reconfigured the wiring:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057637.jpg

On Thu, 16 May 2013 12:29:34 -0700, Oren wrote:

- Disconnect the bottom right wire out from the box. Flip it to the
backside of the motor, around the strainer basket backside, under the
union.

Done.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057686.jpg

On Thu, 16 May 2013 06:24:03 -0700, wrote:

If water can pool there, then putting something to raise it up
an inch or so isnt' a bad idea.

I raised it up with a concrete stepping stone; and the concrete pad
was already raised by an inch already (off the ground level):
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057740.jpg

On Thu, 16 May 2013 06:40:32 -0700, wrote:

That locknut is to secure the fitting inside a box that has no threads.
It should not be on the outside, where there should be a o-ring seal.

Thanks for that advice; all the locknuts were removed since all the
conduit fittings are screwed into either the junction box or the motors:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057756.jpg

On Thu, 16 May 2013 06:24:03 -0700, wrote:

I would not use spade terminals, more work and not typically how it
would be done. And you're cutting the wires too short. I forget the
exact code reqt, but think it's like 6" beyond the box.

I removed all the wires and bought longer wires replaced the conduit:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057783.jpg

I then made sure there was at least 6 inches inside the conduit box.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057777.jpg

I also cut off and put fresh spade terminals on all the wires:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057787.jpg

And, I greased all connections with di-electric grease:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057769.jpg

I stripped the wires about a half inch for the wire nuts:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057797.jpg

Before greasing and installing the wire nuts:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057765.jpg

Note: I only realized the original wire was smaller than 10 AWG when I
started stripping it to put the new spade connectors on, and when I
twisted the wire nuts on. I suspect the old wire was 12 AWG or maybe even
14 AWG all along. My mistake.

On Wed, 15 May 2013 15:22:40 -0700, wrote:

The old fitting that went over the conduit on the left? If so, then
what that appears to me is some different kind of liquidtight fitting
that uses a seperate bushing inside the conduit and then the fitting
itself goes over the conduit.

I removed the elbows off the old conduit, and only then did I realize
what the yellow and white parts actually we
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057828.jpg

On Thu, 16 May 2013 09:15:33 -0700, wrote:

I can't help but wonder at his choice of locations for elbows. Like
why they are used at the top of the pic, where it looks like the conduit
could have gone straight in. An elbow on the motor on the right and an
elbow where the left motor conduit enters the box would seem more
logical.

Thanks for the advice (Oren & Bob said the same thing).

I agreed with that assessment, so I ripped out all the conduit and wire I
had put in, bought new wire, and cut new conduit.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057888.jpg

Picked up some new two-piece straight-through connectors, and rewired it
to what you were so kindly suggesting.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057866.jpg

With all the cutting of the conduit, I found this irrigation pipe cutter
works well, and is just the right size:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057862.jpg

On May 17, 3:59*am, "Danny D." wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2013 06:24:03 -0700, wrote:
I would not use spade terminals, more work and not typically how it
would be done. *And you're cutting the wires too short. I forget the
exact code reqt, but think it's like 6" beyond the box.

I removed all the wires and bought longer wires replaced the conduit:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057783.jpg

I then made sure there was at least 6 inches inside the conduit box.
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057777.jpg

I also cut off and put fresh spade terminals on all the wires:
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057787.jpg

And, I greased all connections with di-electric grease:
*http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057769.jpg

I stripped the wires about a half inch for the wire nuts:
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057797.jpg

Before greasing and installing the wire nuts:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057765.jpg

Note: I only realized the original wire was smaller than 10 AWG when I
started stripping it to put the new spade connectors on, and when I
twisted the wire nuts on. I suspect the old wire was 12 AWG or maybe even
14 AWG all along. My mistake.

I think I told you early on that 12 was more than sufficient.
That motor only pulls about 7 amps, so even 14 would be OK.
I don't know how you got onto 10, but it's better to be too large,
than too small. Only disadvantage is it;s harder to work with.

On May 16, 3:34*pm, "Danny D." wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2013 08:26:33 -0700, Oren wrote:
You had new flex conduit. *Doing so would've prevented having a box.

But I *wanted* the junction box!

For two reasons:
a) Ease of disconnection
b) Freedom to swap in emergencies

With the four new unions and the junction box, I now can move the pumps
and motors about if/when I need to. There are other similar pumps on the
property (e.g., for the koi pond that is currently a koi swamp due to the
pump being out of commission - but that's another story).

I've been pining for that junction box ever since I first started taking
the motors off to fix them.

I know you really, really wanted that box. But after looking
at the final pictures that show a good view of the wiring on
the ends of the motors, I have to agree with Oren. With
what I see there, all that you need to do to remove a
motor is:

Remove the wires from the terminals
Unscew the nut that is on the conduit outside the box
Pull off the conduit.
Work the wires out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Unless I'm missing something, I don't see why that can't
be done in just a few minutes. And you should rarely have
to do even that, because those pumps last a long time.

On May 17, 1:32*am, DD_BobK wrote:
On May 16, 12:39*pm, "Danny D." wrote:

On Thu, 16 May 2013 11:18:04 -0700, Oren wrote:
... take it to the person on isle 5: *"Give me one of these."

I did exactly that at Home Depot today, and the guy came up with these
nice new two-piece conduit connectors. I also bought extra long lengths
of the 10 AWG wire, as recommended, to replace that which I put in
yesterday:

*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13054955.jpg

Note: I did try to find insulated male & female spade connectors; but
they didn't have any for 220 volts and 10 AWG stranded wire; so I'll be
using the waterproof wire nuts with di-electric grease instead, on a
waterproofed junction box on an extra two inches of concrete to keep it
high (although the concrete pad itself is two inches off the ground).

If the box is waterproof why the need for waterproof wire nuts?
If the box was mounted on a post.... it would never get water inside
If the box didn't exist...you wouldn't need to mount it or use wire
nuts.

Are you learning....your way of doing things makes more work for you &
achieves subpar results.

Doh! We lost that battle early on. Danny had a real hard-on
for installing that box. I agree with you and Oren that the box
wasn't really necessary. But I think we missed one point in
explaining to him why. As I recall, he was complaining about
two things with regard to disconnecting and removing a pump
motor:

A - Very difficult to get the wires out from the motor. I disagreed
with that. Yeah, it's a little tight, but with a pair of needle nose
pliers, they should come out without much trouble.

B - He had to rotate the whole motor/pump to unscrew it
from the conduit, because the elbow screwed into threads
in the motor. I knew what he meant, but didn't think through
that there are two piece conduit elbows, where you could
remove the CONDUIT from the elbow, pull the wires out
of the motor and elbow, then unscrew the elbow. He now
has that type connector, actually he got rid of the elbows
at the motors all together, so taking it apart at the motor
should be no problem. But I don't think we clearly explained
those finer points to him.

On May 17, 4:05*am, "Danny D." wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 15:22:40 -0700, wrote:
The old fitting that went over the conduit on the left? *If so, then
what that appears to me is some different kind of liquidtight fitting
that uses a seperate bushing inside the conduit and then the fitting
itself goes over the conduit.

I removed the elbows off the old conduit, and only then did I realize
what the yellow and white parts actually we
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057828.jpg

Ahah! I knew something wasn't right with the end of that
conduit we were looking at. It's as I suspected, there was
a bushing inside it. The inside hole diameter was too
small, the wall way to thick for it to be liquidtight conduit.

On Fri, 17 May 2013 05:03:25 -0700, wrote:

I think I told you early on that 12 was more than sufficient.
That motor only pulls about 7 amps, so even 14 would be OK.

It's amazing how much collective knowledge there is on a.h.r!

I had physically eyeballed it. And I was wrong.

Also, I had measured the conduit. I was wrong there too.

I learned a lot in this, my first 220v wiring job ever!

On Fri, 17 May 2013 05:12:37 -0700, wrote:

All that you need to do to remove a motor is:
Remove the wires from the terminals
Unscrew the nut that is on the conduit outside the box
Pull off the conduit.
Work the wires out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

I must, belatedly, agree.

I think all my cursing and swearing from the initial motor removals had
swayed me, before we ever started.

If you recall, the original elbow setup made it nearly impossible to get
the wires out, mainly for these three reasons:

1. The covers of the original 3 motors were rusted on tightly
2. The motor had to be spun in order to spin off the elbow
3. It was impossible to pull the spaded wires through the elbow

With the covers rusted on in the past, I couldn't disconnect the wires,
which meant I couldn't spin off the elbow nor pull the spaded wires
through it.

In hindsight, the simpler solution would have been to put a multi-piece
straight-through connector on the motor. Luckily, there's nothing
stopping me from doing so, except I'm heading off to camp with the kids
this weekend.

On Thu, 16 May 2013 19:31:08 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Thu, 16 May 2013 10:09:26 -0700, Oren wrote:

The pool would drain 500 gallons of water upon his soil.

Actually, it would drain about 40,000 gallons, because the pool equipment
is 8 feet below the waterline, and the pool is only about 9 feet deep.

I presume it would trip the breaker with that much water.

Do you have a disconnect / breaker on high ground?

On Fri, 17 May 2013 05:26:03 -0700, wrote:

He now has that type connector, actually he got rid of the elbows at the
motors all together, so taking it apart at the motor should be no
problem. But I don't think we clearly explained those finer points to
him.

I do belatedly agree, in hindsight ... I had not realized that the
*simpler* (and better) solution would have been to buy the following:

a. Two straight-through multipiece (easily removed) conduit connectors
b. About 20 feet of conduit & 12 AWG or 14 AWG stranded copper wire
c. Spade and open-end crimp-on connectors
d. About 20 feet of bare copper 10 AWG bonding wire & connectors

Instead of:
a. Six straight-through multipiece conduit connectors
b. 20 feet of conduit & 10 feet of 10 AWG stranded copper wire
c. Spade and open-end crimp-on connectors
d. About 20 feet of bare copper 10 AWG bonding wire & connectors
e. Waterproof junction box and waterproof cover
f. Waterproof wire nuts & di-electric grease
g. Concrete pedestal

The key to the lesson was to better understand the difference between the
absolutely horrid elbow connectors and the lousy one-piece patent-pending
straight connectors versus the much easier to remove multi-piece
connectors!

That took time and experience.
The lessons learned are remembered for the *next* wiring job!

On Fri, 17 May 2013 05:29:30 -0700, wrote:

The inside hole diameter was too small, the wall way to thick for it to
be liquidtight conduit.

I'm confused. I see that it's a multi-piece elbow connector, but are you
saying the original setup wasn't water tight?

On Thu, 16 May 2013 19:49:43 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Thu, 16 May 2013 08:54:05 -0700, Oren wrote:

Don't trip, okay?

I did specifically plan the location of the cleaner pump (the one at 45°)
so that not only did the pipes not run over the top of the basket, but
that I could get my (rather large) body all around it to service the
heater and the other pumps.


I could tell you were a big guy. Figured you wear ~ a size 11 shoe.

(you left wet foot prints on the pavers when you drained the filter)

So, while the octopus has grown, it now has the advantage of:
a) Must easier access to the baskets and pump
b) Easy disconnection of the pump and wiring
c) Re-use of one pump for another with only minor effort

....go for it

On Fri, 17 May 2013 08:59:01 -0700, Oren wrote:

Do you have a disconnect / breaker on high ground?

The main breaker panel is about four feet above the pool equipment.

The 40,000 gallons, if it were to overflow into the pool equipment would
surely run down the hill, as it's all very steep stuff out here in the
mountains. It would never even make it to the neighbor's yard.

On Fri, 17 May 2013 07:40:03 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Thu, 16 May 2013 12:29:34 -0700, Oren wrote:

- Disconnect the bottom right wire out from the box. Flip it to the
backside of the motor, around the strainer basket backside, under the
union.

Done.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13057686.jpg

Had you kept the right side flex short, put a longer one on the left
side - the *mandatory* box (and paver) could've been moved further
back towards the wall, but still have the ability to disconnect the
motors. I was trying to explain it to you.

Water under the bridge now.

On May 17, 12:08*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2013 05:29:30 -0700, wrote:
The inside hole diameter was too small, the wall way to thick for it to
be liquidtight conduit.

I'm confused. I see that it's a multi-piece elbow connector, but are you
saying the original setup wasn't water tight?

No. Just that the picture that you showed us of the end of the
conduit did not look like liquidtight conduit of any size.
The hole was small, the wall was way to thick. That's
why I said it looks like it has a bushing in it, which was
correct.

On Fri, 17 May 2013 09:35:30 -0700, Oren wrote:

Had you kept the right side flex short, put a longer one on the left
side - the *mandatory* box (and paver) could've been moved further back
towards the wall, but still have the ability to disconnect the motors. I
was trying to explain it to you.

Auuuuurgh. *now* I understand what you were trying to tell me!
You are wholly correct! In fact, while I was testing the system just now,
I kept kicking the concrete paver, and thinking I should have moved it up
a foot or so, out of the way.

That's *exactly* what you had forseen, and were desperately *trying* to
tell me! Mea culpa. I did what I thought you had suggested, only I didn't
fully understand it.

Next time, I'm just going to put a straight shot conduit from panel to
motor - but - if I were to have the junction box, I would move it closer
to the panel so that it's more out of the way!

Sigh. (slaps head).

Anyway, since the leaks moved backward (now they're coming from the
underside of the pump to motor interface!), I'm glad the paver is there
to keep the electrical box dry!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070333.jpg

On Fri, 17 May 2013 09:18:28 -0700, Oren wrote:

I could tell you were a big guy. Figured you wear ~ a size 11 shoe.

You scare me. A lot! I'm going to have to switch nyms again, just to
start fresh!

BTW, I think every thing you said, turned out to be the best practice, in
the end. As was said by Bob, trader4, and others.

I just didn't understand it all.

Right now, I have to pack for camping, but, the good news is that it's
all buttoned up, and, well, the *original* leaks are wholly fixed!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070368.jpg

The key problem is that there are new leaks, at the interface between the
pool pump and the motor.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070382.jpg

I think there is a "seal" there that I've never replaced. Maybe I damaged
it. Dunno - but *both* motors are leaking from that location!
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070356.jpg

Unfortunately, I have the "band" tightened as far as it will go by hand:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070364.jpg

On Fri, 17 May 2013 20:54:30 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2013 09:35:30 -0700, Oren wrote:

Had you kept the right side flex short, put a longer one on the left
side - the *mandatory* box (and paver) could've been moved further back
towards the wall, but still have the ability to disconnect the motors. I
was trying to explain it to you.

Auuuuurgh. *now* I understand what you were trying to tell me!
You are wholly correct! In fact, while I was testing the system just now,
I kept kicking the concrete paver, and thinking I should have moved it up
a foot or so, out of the way.


Butter beans

That's *exactly* what you had forseen, and were desperately *trying* to
tell me! Mea culpa. I did what I thought you had suggested, only I didn't
fully understand it.

Next time, I'm just going to put a straight shot conduit from panel to
motor - but - if I were to have the junction box, I would move it closer
to the panel so that it's more out of the way!

Sigh. (slaps head).

Anyway, since the leaks moved backward (now they're coming from the
underside of the pump to motor interface!), I'm glad the paver is there
to keep the electrical box dry!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070333.jpg

I warned you about the O-ring, potential leak, at the Volute at the
strap band connection.

As did I mention (days ago) checking the seal behind the impeller in
the volute. If the seal is bad the leak comes from around the motor
shaft.

/s/ dark horse

On May 17, 5:06*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2013 09:18:28 -0700, Oren wrote:
I could tell you were a big guy. Figured you wear ~ a size 11 shoe.

You scare me. A lot! I'm going to have to switch nyms again, just to
start fresh!

BTW, I think every thing you said, turned out to be the best practice, in
the end. As was said by Bob, trader4, and others.

I just didn't understand it all.

Right now, I have to pack for camping, but, the good news is that it's
all buttoned up, and, well, the *original* leaks are wholly fixed!
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070368.jpg

The key problem is that there are new leaks, at the interface between the
pool pump and the motor.
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070382.jpg

I think there is a "seal" there that I've never replaced. Maybe I damaged
it. Dunno - but *both* motors are leaking from that location!
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070356.jpg

Unfortunately, I have the "band" tightened as far as it will go by hand:
*http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13070364.jpg

What exactly was the point to seperating the motor from the
pump to begin with? I recall hearing about soaking parts in
acid too. I just tuned out on all that.....