Today I tried to connect a 1-inch wide flexible conduit to what was
billed as a 1-inch outdoor junction box:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019061.jpg

However, the 1-inch side of the old elbow clearly was too small to fit
the threads in the 1-inch hole of the new reputedly 1-inch junction box:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019068.jpg

Yet, the 1-inch side of the old elbow was just as clearly too large to
fit the threads in the 3/4 inch hole of a 3/4 inch junction box:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019076.jpg

Clearly I'm confused. Or I bought the wrong type of junction box.
Does a solution seem clear to you?

On 5/15/2013 1:36 AM, Danny D wrote:
Today I tried to connect a 1-inch wide flexible conduit to what was
billed as a 1-inch outdoor junction box:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019061.jpg

However, the 1-inch side of the old elbow clearly was too small to fit
the threads in the 1-inch hole of the new reputedly 1-inch junction box:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019068.jpg

Yet, the 1-inch side of the old elbow was just as clearly too large to
fit the threads in the 3/4 inch hole of a 3/4 inch junction box:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019076.jpg

Clearly I'm confused. Or I bought the wrong type of junction box.
Does a solution seem clear to you?

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/np...ads-d_750.html

On 5/15/2013 1:36 AM, Danny D wrote:
Today I tried to connect a 1-inch wide flexible conduit to what was
billed as a 1-inch outdoor junction box:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019061.jpg

However, the 1-inch side of the old elbow clearly was too small to fit
the threads in the 1-inch hole of the new reputedly 1-inch junction box:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019068.jpg

Yet, the 1-inch side of the old elbow was just as clearly too large to
fit the threads in the 3/4 inch hole of a 3/4 inch junction box:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019076.jpg

Clearly I'm confused. Or I bought the wrong type of junction box.
Does a solution seem clear to you?

You have a piece of 3/4" nonmetallic flex. It looks like you have a 1/2"
X 90 degree NM flex connector. You need a 3/4" NM flex connector. The
larger threaded side of the connector is not pipe threads. it only
threads onto the tightening nut that goes on the NM flex. If you want to
install the 3/4" into the box with 1" openings, you'll need a 1" x 3/4"
threaded bushing.

Today I tried to connect a 1-inch wide flexible conduit to what was
billed as a 1-inch outdoor junction box:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019061.jpg

However, the 1-inch side of the old elbow clearly was too small to fit
the threads in the 1-inch hole of the new reputedly 1-inch junction box:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019068.jpg

Yet, the 1-inch side of the old elbow was just as clearly too large to
fit the threads in the 3/4 inch hole of a 3/4 inch junction box:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019076.jpg

Clearly I'm confused. Or I bought the wrong type of junction box.
Does a solution seem clear to you?


*You are confusing trade sizes with actual dimensions of the conduit. Your
flex has some writing on the outside of it which should include the trade
size.

I have put together a chart of the actual dimensions of some conduits,
however it does not have the flexible type that you have listed yet. The
other conduit dimensions may give you an idea of what size you really need.
http://www.mrelectrician.tv/conversi...peconduit.html

On May 15, 7:12*am, RBM wrote:
On 5/15/2013 1:36 AM, Danny D wrote: Today I tried to connect a 1-inch wide flexible conduit to what was
billed as a 1-inch outdoor junction box:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019061.jpg

However, the 1-inch side of the old elbow clearly was too small to fit
the threads in the 1-inch hole of the new reputedly 1-inch junction box:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019068.jpg

Yet, the 1-inch side of the old elbow was just as clearly too large to
fit the threads in the 3/4 inch hole of a 3/4 inch junction box:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019076.jpg

Clearly I'm confused. Or I bought the wrong type of junction box.
Does a solution seem clear to you?

You have a piece of 3/4" nonmetallic flex. It looks like you have a 1/2"
X 90 degree NM flex connector. You need a 3/4" NM flex connector. The
larger threaded side of the connector is not pipe threads. it only
threads onto the tightening nut that goes on the NM flex. If you want to
install the 3/4" into the box with 1" openings, you'll need a 1" x 3/4"
threaded bushing.

+1

Also, I would use a box twice that size. You have 6 wires
entering the box, which is probably close to the limit for
that box. It's also being put in to allow easy disconnect of
the motor, so having some extra room is a good thing.
And a larger box would allow for the addition of another
wire if you decide to go to a dual speed pump at some point.

On May 15, 7:59*am, "
wrote:
On May 15, 7:12*am, RBM wrote:





On 5/15/2013 1:36 AM, Danny D wrote: Today I tried to connect a 1-inch wide flexible conduit to what was
billed as a 1-inch outdoor junction box:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019061.jpg

However, the 1-inch side of the old elbow clearly was too small to fit
the threads in the 1-inch hole of the new reputedly 1-inch junction box:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019068.jpg

Yet, the 1-inch side of the old elbow was just as clearly too large to
fit the threads in the 3/4 inch hole of a 3/4 inch junction box:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019076.jpg

Clearly I'm confused. Or I bought the wrong type of junction box.
Does a solution seem clear to you?

You have a piece of 3/4" nonmetallic flex. It looks like you have a 1/2"
X 90 degree NM flex connector. You need a 3/4" NM flex connector. The
larger threaded side of the connector is not pipe threads. it only
threads onto the tightening nut that goes on the NM flex. If you want to
install the 3/4" into the box with 1" openings, you'll need a 1" x 3/4"
threaded bushing.

+1

Also, I would use a box twice that size. *You have 6 wires
entering the box, which is probably close to the limit for
that box. * It's also being put in to allow easy disconnect of
the motor, so having some extra room is a good thing.
And a larger box would allow for the addition of another
wire if you decide to go to a dual speed pump at some point.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Actually, I went back and looked at the pics again. I thought
it was a smaller box, but now I see it looks like we're looking
at the side of the box. If it's about 4x4, that's what I had in
mind.

On May 14, 11:09*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 05:36:04 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

Today I tried to connect a 1-inch wide flexible conduit to what was
billed as a 1-inch outdoor junction box:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019061.jpg

However, the 1-inch side of the old elbow clearly was too small to fit
the threads in the 1-inch hole of the new reputedly 1-inch junction box:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019068.jpg

Yet, the 1-inch side of the old elbow was just as clearly too large to
fit the threads in the 3/4 inch hole of a 3/4 inch junction box:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019076.jpg

Clearly I'm confused. Or I bought the wrong type of junction box.
Does a solution seem clear to you?

Conduit is measured based on ID not OD but that is a nominal size.
Your Carflex LFNC looks like 3/4" but you need a connector to get into
that 3/4" threaded hub.

+1

On May 14, 10:36*pm, Danny D wrote:
Today I tried to connect a 1-inch wide flexible conduit to what was
billed as a 1-inch outdoor junction box:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019061.jpg

However, the 1-inch side of the old elbow clearly was too small to fit
the threads in the 1-inch hole of the new reputedly 1-inch junction box:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019068.jpg

Yet, the 1-inch side of the old elbow was just as clearly too large to
fit the threads in the 3/4 inch hole of a 3/4 inch junction box:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13019076.jpg

Clearly I'm confused. Or I bought the wrong type of junction box.
Does a solution seem clear to you?

Does a solution seem clear to you?

Completely....

1) That elbow is meant to attach to your existing flex. The end with
straight thread (the bigger end) makes up the water connection to the
flex, The smaller end looks to be 1/2".... in screws into just able
an wet location box.

2) The "box end" of conduit connectors are sized like water pipe.
RIgid conduit is sized like water pipe.
Checkout conduit sizes.... http://www.home4c.com/conduit.htm

3) Conduits don't have widths...they have diameters.

On Wed, 15 May 2013 02:09:51 -0400, gfretwell wrote:

Conduit is measured based on ID not OD but that is a nominal size. Your
Carflex LFNC looks like 3/4" but you need a connector to get into that
3/4" threaded hub.

Does that mean that what I measured as the old 1-inch conduit and 1-inch
elbow is actually a 3/4-inch conduit and elbow?

http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13042773.jpg

If that's the case, why doesn't it then fit the 3/4-inch junction box?

On Wed, 15 May 2013 02:09:51 -0400, gfretwell wrote:

Conduit is measured based on ID not OD but that is a nominal size. Your
Carflex LFNC looks like 3/4" but you need a connector to get into that
3/4" threaded hub.

Does that mean that what I measured as the old 1-inch conduit and 1-inch
elbow is actually a 3/4-inch conduit and elbow?

http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13042773.jpg

If that's the case, why doesn't it then fit the 3/4-inch junction box?

On Wed, 15 May 2013 17:30:24 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

If that's the case

I'll defer on the electrical stuff. However, something tells me the
box has be a certain height above the ground surface. Given the
location for potential flooding, electrical power and that kind of
stuff.

On Wed, 15 May 2013 11:27:36 -0700, Oren wrote:

something tells me the box has be a certain height above the ground
surface. Given the location for potential flooding, electrical power and
that kind of stuff.

I had asked and the answer came back that it's to code to put the box
on the concrete outside, as long as I use waterproof connections and a
waterproof cover (all of which I already purchased).

On Wed, 15 May 2013 14:07:52 -0400, gfretwell wrote:

That elbow is a 3/4" flex to 1/2" thread.

OK. If the large side of the elbow, which measures at 1-inch, is actually
a 3/4 inch connection, then that means the existing conduit is 3/4 inch
and not 1 inch as I had thought.

So I bought the wrong box (because I bought a 1-inch box).

However, that doesn't explain why the 3/4-inch threaded connector is
still too large for the 3/4-inch box?

It's close, but the threads don't fit?

I'm wholly confused because 3/4 inch conduit doesn't fit the 3/4 inch
box???

On Wed, 15 May 2013 14:07:52 -0400, gfretwell wrote:

You need a 3/4 to 3/4

Actually, the plan is to put the old 3/4 inch conduit into the junction
box with a straight-through connector.

Then, coming out of the junction box, will be half-inch conduit that goes
to the motors, with a straight through half inch connector on the end
that screws into the motor body.

My only problem right now is figuring out why the 3/4 inch conduit
doesn't fit into the 3/4 inch holes of the box. It makes no sense unless
I'm assuming something that isn't the case (which it must be).

On May 15, 5:22*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 14:07:52 -0400, gfretwell wrote:
That elbow is a 3/4" flex to 1/2" thread.

OK. If the large side of the elbow, which measures at 1-inch, is actually
a 3/4 inch connection, then that means the existing conduit is 3/4 inch
and not 1 inch as I had thought.

So I bought the wrong box (because I bought a 1-inch box).

However, that doesn't explain why the 3/4-inch threaded connector is
still too large for the 3/4-inch box?

It's close, but the threads don't fit?

I'm wholly confused because 3/4 inch conduit doesn't fit the 3/4 inch
box???

What you have doesn't work, so you have to take it
back, right? You apparently have 3/4"
liquidtight conduit. Measure the inside diameter. Go down
to HD or wherever you bought what you have. Take a piece
of the conduit with you or measure the inside diatmeter. I
see markings on the conduit in the pic and I'll bet it even
says what size it is. Find a piece of conduit at HD to use
or take a piece with you. Then go to the parts bin and find
the appropriate fittings, box, etc. Make sure it all works before
you leave.

One fundemental problem that has been explained to
you is that you have two different ends of that elbow.
One end has threads that mate with the nut for the
conduit. That end will never mate with the box. If that
conduit is 3/4, then you need a 3/4" elbow. It fits 3/4
conduit on one side, 3/4 box hole on the other

On May 15, 2:07*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 17:31:10 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Wed, 15 May 2013 02:09:51 -0400, gfretwell wrote:

Conduit is measured based on ID not OD but that is a nominal size. Your
Carflex LFNC looks like 3/4" but you need a connector to get into that
3/4" threaded hub.

Does that mean that what I measured as the old 1-inch conduit and 1-inch
elbow is actually a 3/4-inch conduit and elbow?

http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13042773.jpg


I'm not sure what we're looking at in the pic. On the left,
is there a bushing inside that conduit? That's what it looks
like to me, a 3/4 conduit with a bushing inside. And what are
you showing the end of on the right? The old fitting that
went over the conduit on the left? If so, then what that appears
to me is some different kind of liquidtight fitting that uses
a seperate bushing inside the conduit and then the fitting itself goes
over the conduit.




If that's the case, why doesn't it then fit the 3/4-inch junction box?

That elbow is a 3/4" flex to 1/2" thread. You need a 3/4 to 3/4

On Wed, 15 May 2013 15:07:26 -0700, wrote:

What you have doesn't work, so you have to take it back, right?
Find a piece of conduit at HD to use or take a piece with you.
Make sure it all works before you leave.

I did exactly as advised, and found out the answer to the size enigma can
only be had with experience, as measurements do not prevail when it comes
to flexible conduit connection sizes.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045061.jpg

It turned out that this fitting (that clearly measured at one inch
diameter) isn't even close to what they call a one-inch fitting:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045051.jpg

In fact (even though it clearly measures out at 1 inch), it's not even
close to what they call a 3/4 inch fitting; it turns out that it is a
half-inch fitting!
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045057.jpg

So, the end result is that the original conduit and both sides of the
elbow were actually nominally half inch sizes all along!

On Wed, 15 May 2013 07:01:18 -0700, DD_BobK wrote:

1) That elbow is meant to attach to your existing flex. The end with
straight thread (the bigger end) makes up the water connection to the
flex, The smaller end looks to be 1/2".... in screws into just able an
wet location box.

I guess I missed the clue stamped right on the elbow all along!
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045079.jpg

The enigma turns out to be that the elbow was 1/2 inch on both sides!

The clue I missed is that it was clearly stamped 1/2 inch, but it never
occurred to me that this meant *both sides* were half inch (yes, even the
side that measures out at 1 inch).

Note: The straight-thru connectors are stamped 1/2NPT.

On Wed, 15 May 2013 15:22:40 -0700, wrote:

I'm not sure what we're looking at in the pic. On the left,
is there a bushing inside that conduit?

I'm not sure what the yellow thing is but here is a side view:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045100.jpg

It turns out that, with experience, the whole thing turns out to be
comprised of half-inch fittings!

1. The half-inch conduit ...
2. ... had a half-inch nut ...
3. ... which held a half-inch elbow ...
4. ... which was screwed into a half-inch hole in the motor!

Note: The plastic nut, plastic elbow, and gray conduit are all one inch
in diameter; but they're still considered half inch equipment, apparently.

On Wed, 15 May 2013 15:07:26 -0700, wrote:

One fundemental problem that has been explained to you is that
you have two different ends of that elbow.
One end has threads that mate with the nut for the conduit.
That end will never mate with the box.

It turned out to be even worse than you said.

Apparently the one-piece straight-through half-inch ends that I bought
from Home Depot won't work on the motor end because they actually *screw*
onto the conduit!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045123.jpg

In fact, the Ace Hardware guy was amazed that they weren't two pieces,
and he kept trying to take it apart!

His two-piece connector has a nut that holds it onto the conduit, just
like the old elbow had.

However, the one-piece Home Depot connector actually, somehow, grabs onto
the "ribs" of the conduit, to screw on tightly (patent pending I'm sure).

If I used the one-piece connector on the conduit end by the motor, it
would make spinning off that connector impossible without spinning the
motor or conduit itself!

And that's the whole problem I'm trying to avoid!

UPDATE:

It's mostly done. Thanks for all the advice. I learned a lot.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045434.jpg

A lesson learned is those patent-pending one-piece connectors stink!
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045440.jpg

You have to spin the entire cable to remove them!

That's the problem I was trying to avoid in the first place!

Tomorrow I'll pick up two more two-piece connectors and finish the job.

On May 15, 2:17*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 11:27:36 -0700, Oren wrote:
something tells me the box has be a certain height above the ground
surface. Given the location for potential flooding, electrical power and
that kind of stuff.

I had asked and the answer came back that it's to code to put the box
on the concrete outside, as long as I use waterproof connections and a
waterproof cover (all of which I already purchased).

Danny-

Try listening to the guys in the newsgroup.... remember the code is a
minimum standard.
Mounting a box,even a "water proof" box, on the ground when an easy
alternative exists is a bad idea.

On May 15, 2:22*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 14:07:52 -0400, gfretwell wrote:
That elbow is a 3/4" flex to 1/2" thread.

OK. If the large side of the elbow, which measures at 1-inch, is actually
a 3/4 inch connection, then that means the existing conduit is 3/4 inch
and not 1 inch as I had thought.

So I bought the wrong box (because I bought a 1-inch box).

However, that doesn't explain why the 3/4-inch threaded connector is
still too large for the 3/4-inch box?

It's close, but the threads don't fit?

I'm wholly confused because 3/4 inch conduit doesn't fit the 3/4 inch
box???

Note: boxes are described buy their nominal size ....like a 4" box or
by a "gang" ..like single gang, double gang, etc
The threaded hole callouts are secondary to box size.

On Wed, 15 May 2013 21:40:37 -0700, DD_BobK wrote:

Mounting a box,even a "water proof" box, on the ground
when an easy alternative exists is a bad idea.

I've never wired using conduit before, so I can use all the suggestions
I can get; however, I must have missed alternative mounting ideas.

How would you suggest the junction box be mounted?
Should I raise it up on a block of wood?

BTW, I added silicone to waterproof the bottom of the box:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045562.jpg

And I put di-electric grease on all the connections:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045565.jpg

And, I added o-rings to every conduit connection:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045583.jpg

Two questions I have regarding the setup below:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045571.jpg

Q1: Would you drill into the concrete to firmly attach the box?
Q2: Should I buy male spade connectors so as to connect spade to spade?
(instead of the waterproof wire nuts?)

On Wed, 15 May 2013 11:27:36 -0700, Oren wrote:

I'll defer on the electrical stuff. However, something tells me the box
has be a certain height above the ground surface. Given the location for
potential flooding, electrical power and that kind of stuff.

Hi Oren,

I went back to find this because DD_BobK said I had ignored your
suggestion, so I apologize for not having taken greater note of this.

The location gets torrential rain during the winter (and not a drop of
rain for the other 9 months of the year); so, I agree raising it up a bit
might be a good idea.

How does it sound to put it on a thick block of wood?

Or is there a better way to raise it off the concrete?
(bearing in mind the concrete itself is already raised a couple of inches)

On Wed, 15 May 2013 07:36:49 -0400, John Grabowski wrote:

*You are confusing trade sizes with actual dimensions of the conduit.
Your flex has some writing on the outside of it which should
include the trade size.

LESSON LEARNED:

The old cable clearly says it's 1/2 inch cable on it, had I only looked!
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045614.jpg

In hindsight, I was lulled into complacency because I could easily
measure the fat end of the original elbow at an exact 1 inch, so, it
seemed so natural that the conduit was one inch that I didn't doublecheck.

It was only when the one inch box didn't fit, and the 3/4 inch box didn't
fit either, that I took a second look at the problem.

Even then, it's wholly unnatural that both sides of that elbow were
actually 1/2 inch connectors!

On Wed, 15 May 2013 06:11:25 -0700, wrote:

If it's about 4x4, that's what I had in mind.

It's the biggest box they had.

I really wanted three holes in each side (one for each motor).

A lesson learned is that the only thing this pipe cutter turned out to be
good for was for cutting the conduit (but a smaller irrigation cutter
would have worked even better):
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045635.jpg

Unlike the useless pipe cutter though, the wire strippers and the wire
crimper seemed to do the job quite nicely:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045647.jpg

In fact, they did so well, I'm wondering if it would be to code to mate
the female spade connectors to male spade connectors instead of cutting
off the ends to wire nut them?

On May 15, 8:05*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 15:07:26 -0700, wrote:
What you have doesn't work, so you have to take it back, right?
Find a piece of conduit at HD to use or take a piece with you.
Make sure it all works before you leave.

I did exactly as advised, and found out the answer to the size enigma can
only be had with experience, as measurements do not prevail when it comes
to flexible conduit connection sizes.
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045061.jpg

It turned out that this fitting (that clearly measured at one inch
diameter) isn't even close to what they call a one-inch fitting:
*http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045051.jpg


We told you many times right from the start that the
size is *not* based on the fitting. It's based on the size
of the inside diameter of the CONDUIT.




In fact (even though it clearly measures out at 1 inch), it's not even
close to what they call a 3/4 inch fitting; it turns out that it is a
half-inch fitting!
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045057.jpg

So, the end result is that the original conduit and both sides of the
elbow were actually nominally half inch sizes all along!

Well, there you have it.

On May 15, 8:44*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 15:07:26 -0700, wrote:
One fundemental problem that has been explained to you is that
you have two different ends of that elbow.
One end has threads that mate with the nut for the conduit.
That end will never mate with the box.

It turned out to be even worse than you said.

Apparently the one-piece straight-through half-inch ends that I bought
from Home Depot won't work on the motor end because they actually *screw*
onto the conduit!
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045123.jpg



In fact, the Ace Hardware guy was amazed that they weren't two pieces,
and he kept trying to take it apart!

Must be like my local Ace Hardware where every time I
walk in, the resident wingnut who is clueless insists on
"helping" me. One visit I was looking for a basic water
pressure gauge for a well pump and he gave me a
lecture about how residential water systems operate at
2 PSI.

That fitting you have is common. It works fine for most
applications. The end that connects to a box, typically
goes into a blank hole and then the nut that is provided
goes on inside to hold it. As you figured out, that won't
work because your motor has a threaded fitting.

On May 15, 8:27*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 15:22:40 -0700, wrote:
I'm not sure what we're looking at in the pic. *On the left,
is there a bushing inside that conduit?

I'm not sure what the yellow thing is but here is a side view:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045100.jpg

It turns out that, with experience, the whole thing turns out to be
comprised of half-inch fittings!

1. The half-inch conduit ...
2. ... had a half-inch nut ...
3. ... which held a half-inch elbow ...
4. ... which was screwed into a half-inch hole in the motor!

Note: The plastic nut, plastic elbow, and gray conduit are all one inch
in diameter; but they're still considered half inch equipment, apparently..


And right on the conduit in the pic is black lettering. Doesn't that
say that it's 1/2"? Or, if that piece isn't readable, isn't there
another
section there that is?

On May 16, 1:22*am, Danny D wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 07:36:49 -0400, John Grabowski wrote:
*You are confusing trade sizes with actual dimensions of the conduit.
Your flex has some writing on the outside of it which should
include the trade size.

LESSON LEARNED:

The old cable clearly says it's 1/2 inch cable on it, had I only looked!
*http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045614.jpg


Finally! Good grief!

In hindsight, I was lulled into complacency because I could easily
measure the fat end of the original elbow at an exact 1 inch, so, it
seemed so natural that the conduit was one inch that I didn't doublecheck..

Part of this comes from experience. One inch conduit is
so large that it makes no sense that it would be used to hook
up your pool motor. Once you have some experience, it's easy
to recognize what size it is just by looking. Apparently, it's not
so easy to tell by looking at a pic. You did have that one recent
pic that shows the end of the 1/2", but the hole in that compared
to the thickenss of the wall, and the different colors, made me
think it was some kind of bushing inside a 3/4" conduit


It was only when the one inch box didn't fit, and the 3/4 inch box didn't
fit either, that I took a second look at the problem.

As DD pointed out, it's not really a one inch box. It's a
4" box with one inch holes. Just so you don't wind up
going over to ACE and asking for such a thing. The
dopes they have over there might spend an hour looking
for one.



Even then, it's wholly unnatural that both sides of that elbow were
actually 1/2 inch connectors!

Well, I guess that's why even the right end wouldn't go into
the box threads.

On May 16, 1:09*am, Danny D wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2013 21:40:37 -0700, DD_BobK wrote:
Mounting a box,even a "water proof" box, on the ground
when an easy alternative exists is a bad idea.

I've never wired using conduit before, so I can use all the suggestions
I can get; however, I must have missed alternative mounting ideas.

How would you suggest the junction box be mounted?
Should I raise it up on a block of wood?

BTW, I added silicone to waterproof the bottom of the box:
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045562.jpg

And I put di-electric grease on all the connections:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045565.jpg

And, I added o-rings to every conduit connection:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045583.jpg

Two questions I have regarding the setup below:http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045571.jpg

Q1: Would you drill into the concrete to firmly attach the box?
Q2: Should I buy male spade connectors so as to connect spade to spade?
(instead of the waterproof wire nuts?)

Some of the folks that have had discussion or issues with
inspectors can probably give you a better answer regarding
fastening it. It definitiely needs to be fastened and putting
screws into the concrete would do that. However to
avoid drilling, I wonder if construction adhesive would satisfy
code? Not sure. I would be comfortable doing it for
that application from a safety standpoint, but not sure what
an inspector would say.

I think DerbyDad brought up the issue of
raising it up higher. I don't believe that's required by code.
If there is no pooling of water around the box likely, ie it
runs off, then I wouldn't worry about it. If water can pool
there, then putting something to raise it up an inch or so
isnt' a bad idea. But I think most pool installers would just
mount it to the deck.

I would not use spade terminals, more work and not typically
how it would be done. And you're cutting the wires too short.
I forget the exact code reqt, but think it's like 6" beyond the
box. Don't go nuts, nobody is going to come measure them.
But just looking at it, they appear short.

And not to get you into a rat hole, but just so you know
and learn, there is a min box size allowed for a given
number of wires of a given size. I would think that box
is probably around the limit, you have 12 wires going
into it. They don't want you to shove 10 lbs of stuff into
a 5 lb bag,

On May 16, 9:24*am, "
wrote:
On May 16, 1:09*am, Danny D wrote:





On Wed, 15 May 2013 21:40:37 -0700, DD_BobK wrote:
Mounting a box,even a "water proof" box, on the ground
when an easy alternative exists is a bad idea.

I've never wired using conduit before, so I can use all the suggestions
I can get; however, I must have missed alternative mounting ideas.

How would you suggest the junction box be mounted?
Should I raise it up on a block of wood?

BTW, I added silicone to waterproof the bottom of the box:
*http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045562.jpg

And I put di-electric grease on all the connections:
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045565.jpg

And, I added o-rings to every conduit connection:
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045583.jpg

Two questions I have regarding the setup below:http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045571.jpg

Q1: Would you drill into the concrete to firmly attach the box?
Q2: Should I buy male spade connectors so as to connect spade to spade?
(instead of the waterproof wire nuts?)

Some of the folks that have had discussion or issues with
inspectors can probably give you a better answer regarding
fastening it. *It definitiely needs to be fastened and putting
screws into the concrete would do that. * However to
avoid drilling, I wonder if construction adhesive would satisfy
code? *Not sure. *I would be comfortable doing it for
that application from a safety standpoint, but not sure what
an inspector would say.

*I think DerbyDad brought up the issue of
raising it up higher. *I don't believe that's required by code.
If there is no pooling of water around the box likely, ie it
runs off, then I wouldn't worry about it. *If water can pool
there, then putting something to raise it up an inch or so
isnt' a bad idea. *But I think most pool installers would just
mount it to the deck.

I would not use spade terminals, more work and not typically
how it would be done. *And you're cutting the wires too short.
I forget the exact code reqt, but think it's like 6" beyond the
box. *Don't go nuts, nobody is going to come measure them.
But just looking at it, they appear short.

And not to get you into a rat hole, but just so you know
and learn, there is a min box size allowed for a given
number of wires of a given size. *I would think that box
is probably around the limit, you have 12 wires going
into it. *They don't want you to shove 10 lbs of stuff into
a 5 lb bag,- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Forgot to add, in the pic on the conduit fitting on the
lower left, there is a locknut showing on the outside
of the box. That locknut is to secure the fitting inside
a box that has no threads. It should not be on the
outside, where there should be a o-ring seal.

On Thu, 16 May 2013 06:24:03 -0700, wrote:

I forget the exact code reqt, but think it's like 6" beyond the box.
... just looking at it, they appear short.

Interesting. I was keeping them to 3", but I didn't have a spec to go by.

Had I known it was 6", I would have added more.

I am buying wire today so I can buy some more and make them longer.

On Thu, 16 May 2013 06:24:03 -0700, wrote:

there is a min box size allowed for a given number of wires of a given
size.

Yikes.

Nobody mentioned that, 'till now.

This is a 31 cubic inch box, with two 10 AWG lines going in, and two
coming out, for a total of 12 wires.

On Thu, 16 May 2013 05:34:50 -0700, wrote:

We told you many times right from the start that the size is *not* based
on the fitting. It's based on the size of the inside diameter of the
CONDUIT.

And, I erroneously thought all the time that the fitting size was the
same as the size of the inside of the conduit.

It wasn't even close.

My mistake.

Lesson learned. (Listen to the huckleberry team!)

On Thu, 16 May 2013 05:47:21 -0700, wrote:

And right on the conduit in the pic is black lettering. Doesn't that
say that it's 1/2"?

Yes. You are correct.

It *clearly* states it is 1/2 inch conduit, in fact.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045614.jpg

I just hadn't read it because I was sure I had *measured* it (via the
elbow) at 1 inch.

I was wrong.

On May 16, 12:14*am, Danny D wrote:
UPDATE:

It's mostly done. Thanks for all the advice. I learned a lot.
*http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045434.jpg

A lesson learned is those patent-pending one-piece connectors stink!
*http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045440.jpg

You have to spin the entire cable to remove them!

Only if it's going into a box with threaded holes or the
pump motor that you have, which is threaded too. If it goes into
a box with blanks, then you use the provided nut to secure it
on the inside. To remove, you take the nut off and the
connector comes out. You're right, they don't work well
for threaded connections.



That's the problem I was trying to avoid in the first place!

Tomorrow I'll pick up two more two-piece connectors and finish the job.

On Wed, 15 May 2013 21:17:36 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Wed, 15 May 2013 11:27:36 -0700, Oren wrote:

something tells me the box has be a certain height above the ground
surface. Given the location for potential flooding, electrical power and
that kind of stuff.

I had asked and the answer came back that it's to code to put the box
on the concrete outside, as long as I use waterproof connections and a
waterproof cover (all of which I already purchased).

I recall that. It was also brought up to replace the two short runs,
make them new longer runs with new wire, etc. Back to the control box
/ breaker location. Once the distance to the new motor location was
determined.

You had new flex conduit. Doing so would've prevented having a box.

Just sayin'

On Thu, 16 May 2013 04:14:18 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

It's mostly done. Thanks for all the advice. I learned a lot.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/13045434.jpg


Golly Gee Danny. The octopus has grown

You can get to the strainer baskets easier and remove the tops, IF you
don't trip over that thing. You still have to bonding wire to connect.

Don't trip, okay?