I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

My work bench is 1/2 inch CDX. What do you expect to repair? Are you an air
craft mechanic, or what? Mine with 1/2 inch plywood has been plenty fine.

Please put in several power sockets, they come in handy.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"SMS" wrote in message
...
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

On Wed, 31 Oct 2012 07:37:01 -0700, SMS
wrote:

I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

To me, 3' is too deep for a bench- crap just gets lost in the back.

But you might use it for something other than what I do- so that would
determine the depth, the heft and the surface.

As I think about it I have 5 benches between the garage and basement.

In general, I like 2 layers of 3/4 plywood glued together. One end
of one bench has a chunk of countertop that I bought cheap. Another is
steel. Another is fireboard.

I have a 30" door that I throw on two sawhorses if I need the space.

Jim

On Oct 31, 9:37*am, SMS wrote:
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

A bunch of 2 x 4s glued together, with the new glues the wood will
split before it comes apart

In article ,
SMS wrote:

I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

I like the maple butcher block tops. A few hundred dollars, but nice to
look at, stay flat, and seem to last forever. They're heavy enough that
they'll sit on a sturdy frame (preferably fully welded 2" square steel
tubing) without bolts.

On Oct 31, 10:37*am, SMS wrote:
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

The workbench that came with my house was made from full sized 2 x 4's
and 2 x 8's. The top itself is 2 x 8's laid flat and are pretty rough.

I covered the top with 1/4" tempered hardboard to produce a very
smooth surface. I don't mind drilling through it, spilling paint or
cutting oil on it or hammering nails into it because when it gets
really messed up, I take it off and replace it with another sheet of
tempered hardboard for fresh new surface. I'd estimate I've done that
5 or 6 times in about 20 years.

I nailed 1/4" thick back band molding around the edges of the
workbench for a smoother edge and to hold the hardboard in place
without and nails or glue.

Another thing to consider is your electrical layout. My workbench top
extends about 4 inches beyond the horizontal 2 x 4 that supports the
front edge. I ran 4 duplex receptacles, evenly spaced, along the 2 x 4
so that my cords are never in my way on top of the workbench. That
keeps the area behind the workbench (a wall in my case) free from
cords and nothing I put on the workbench blocks any receptacles.

My shop is pretty small, but I also have multiple receptacles on the 2
side walls so I can plug tools into wherever will give me the most
working room free from cords.

"SMS" wrote in message
...
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors cut
to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I think
plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the doors.

Any other ideas?

Make the under part of the top with scrap wood then put a layer of laminate
(hard plastic/synthitic works well) 'wood' flowing on the top. We have one
area of the shop that we reguild generators and pumps. Beats the hell out
of the laminate but keeps on ticking.

Since you don't need much left overs or borken boxes are cheap.

SMS wrote in news:5091378e$0$71199
:

I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the
house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

Heavy quality floorboards. At least an inch thick.

On Oct 31, 3:31*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 31 Oct 2012 12:40:32 -0500, "NotMe" wrote:

"SMS" wrote in message
.. .
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors cut
to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I think
plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the doors.

Any other ideas?

Make the under part of the top with scrap wood then put a layer of laminate
(hard plastic/synthitic works well) 'wood' flowing on the top. *We have one
area of the shop that we reguild generators and pumps. *Beats the hell out
of the laminate but keeps on ticking.

Since you don't need much left overs or borken boxes are cheap.

I got a pretty good sized chunk of second hand pure white Corian. It
is not enough to cover the whole workbench but it does make a nice
work surface for working with small parts like carburetors-

That's a perfect example of why there is no one answer to the
workbench top question. I want a top that I'm not afraid to abuse
(thus the 1/4" replaceable hardboard) while other's might want a
perfectly smooth and pristine surface for working with small intricate
parts.

It all depends on what the workbench will be used for.

On Wed, 31 Oct 2012 13:27:20 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

It all depends on what the workbench will be used for.

Bingo.

My garage bench is metal, small drill press mounted and a vise on the
other end.

I can hammer, make noise or set engine parts on it.

This work bench is at least 20 years old.

In ,
SMS typed:
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we
bought the house (too high, too short) and am building a
3' x 10' bench, and it's almost done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80"
solid core doors cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big
expensive at $65 each, but I think plywood is too thin,
and AB plywood isn't that much less than the doors.

Any other ideas?

I went to the local Buildiing supply and asked about small pieces of
returned or unused countertops. 3 Pieces (not matching in colors) and I had
a 12' long bench. Steel legs I already had, so used those for solidity and
stability. It sits atop a 3/4" ply base. Strong, no bounce, stable, deep
enough I routed out a space and dropped a steel bar into it for heavy
pounding on steel.
14 years old and counting. What I tore out had a 3/4 plywood with
linoleum on it. Worked OK, but got dinged up easily. Countertops are really
hard to ding up and they look as good as the day they were new except
they're painted gloss white (vision assistance).

I use three layers of ¾” plywood.
I started out with two
but when I bolted the vise on I realized I needed another layer.

On 10/31/2012 11:31 PM, wrote:
I use three layers of ¾” plywood.
I started out with two
but when I bolted the vise on I realized I needed another layer.

I have a very heavy duty vise, must weigh 75 pounds, so I need a strong top.

I will be doing a lot of electronics work on the bench as well, so I
want a smooth top.

I'd like a one piece top, but finding a 10' door or counter isn't easy.
The cheapest would be granite (around here granite from China is about
the least expensive countertop material) but I don't want granite.

I could do the three sheets of plywood (two sets of three sheets for the
area I need), but that would cost more than the solid core doors.

On Thu, 01 Nov 2012 08:40:46 -0700, SMS
wrote:

On 10/31/2012 11:31 PM, wrote:
I use three layers of ¾€� plywood.
I started out with two
but when I bolted the vise on I realized I needed another layer.

I have a very heavy duty vise, must weigh 75 pounds, so I need a strong top.


I always lag screw my vises at the corner of the benches, which are
made of 2x4's. Whether I've used 1/2" plank or 3/4" plywood for the
top, at least 2 screws go into the 2x4's. You can bolt and washer
anyway, so that vise won't come loose.

I will be doing a lot of electronics work on the bench as well, so I
want a smooth top.


Planking and plywood are smooth. I coat my benches with cheap white
latex paint. Like 'em white for the light reflection. I don't beat
on them, and they stay smooth.
If you're nicking them up past what you want, use hardboard as
gfretwell said.

In article ,
SMS wrote:

On 10/31/2012 11:31 PM, wrote:
I use three layers of 3Ž4² plywood.
I started out with two
but when I bolted the vise on I realized I needed another layer.

I have a very heavy duty vise, must weigh 75 pounds, so I need a strong top.

I will be doing a lot of electronics work on the bench as well, so I
want a smooth top.

I'd like a one piece top, but finding a 10' door or counter isn't easy.
The cheapest would be granite (around here granite from China is about
the least expensive countertop material) but I don't want granite.

I could do the three sheets of plywood (two sets of three sheets for the
area I need), but that would cost more than the solid core doors.

Seriously, check McMaster's pricing on Maple butcher block. 72" x 30" x
1.75" thick is only $233, with or without a radius at the front edge.

If you're committed to 10', you're up around 5 bills and still worth
every penny. Compared to cobbling sheets of plywood together and trying
to make it smooth and flat, that's not a lot more money for a much
better solution. I've got about six of them at the shop.

On 10/31/2012 9:37 AM, SMS wrote:
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?
Solid core doors work well. YOu should be able to ask for damaged doors
- they usually go for about $10. You might consider edge banding the
top and adding a masonite cap that can be replaced when necessary.

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

On 11/2/2012 12:47 AM, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
SMS wrote:

On 10/31/2012 11:31 PM, wrote:
I use three layers of 3Ž4² plywood.
I started out with two
but when I bolted the vise on I realized I needed another layer.

I have a very heavy duty vise, must weigh 75 pounds, so I need a strong top.

I will be doing a lot of electronics work on the bench as well, so I
want a smooth top.

I'd like a one piece top, but finding a 10' door or counter isn't easy.
The cheapest would be granite (around here granite from China is about
the least expensive countertop material) but I don't want granite.

I could do the three sheets of plywood (two sets of three sheets for the
area I need), but that would cost more than the solid core doors.

Seriously, check McMaster's pricing on Maple butcher block. 72" x 30" x
1.75" thick is only $233, with or without a radius at the front edge.

If you're committed to 10', you're up around 5 bills and still worth
every penny. Compared to cobbling sheets of plywood together and trying
to make it smooth and flat, that's not a lot more money for a much
better solution. I've got about six of them at the shop.

Much depends on what you are planning to do on the bench, as others
above have said. When I build mine, I wanted plastic laminate, however,
a sheet was sooooo expensive that I quickly abandoned that. I finally
used laminate flooring. I picked a pattern that was smooth and
inexpensive.
https://picasaweb.google.com/actodes...34306941982338

It works pretty well, is cleanable and durable .... maybe not to hammer
on, but, for the stuff I do, it's good. It is glued down to an OSB
surface and edged with a rounded over piece of oak. For hammering, I
have vice and an old stage weight that serves well.
https://picasaweb.google.com/actodes...73751739357826
I've since expanded it to L shaped, with the addition a few inches
lower which is used for electronic stuff.

On 11/2/2012 4:22 AM, DanG wrote:
On 10/31/2012 9:37 AM, SMS wrote:
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?
Solid core doors work well. YOu should be able to ask for damaged doors
- they usually go for about $10. You might consider edge banding the
top and adding a masonite cap that can be replaced when necessary.

I haven't found a source for damaged doors. However someone on
craigslist is selling a big batch of used solid core doors for $25 each.
This is pretty close to me too. This is less than half the price of new
doors.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/3364815903.html

On Wed, 31 Oct 2012 08:51:16 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
SMS wrote:

I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

I like the maple butcher block tops. A few hundred dollars, but nice to
look at, stay flat, and seem to last forever. They're heavy enough that
they'll sit on a sturdy frame (preferably fully welded 2" square steel
tubing) without bolts.

Ikea is a good source for butcher block tops. I like their beech
tops.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40057396/

On 10/31/2012 10:37 AM, SMS wrote:
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

My work benches are 2 layers of 1/2 inch plywood. Unfinished surfaces
were just varnished. Been a long time and I don't remember what it cost
but don't think it was expensive.

z wrote:

I like the maple butcher block tops. A few hundred dollars, but nice
to look at, stay flat, and seem to last forever. They're heavy
enough that they'll sit on a sturdy frame (preferably fully welded
2" square steel tubing) without bolts.

Ikea is a good source for butcher block tops. I like their beech
tops.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40057396/

Should you cover the butcher-block table top with 1/2" plywood to protect it
from nails, tool-slippage, spilled varnish, and the like?

On Sun, 4 Nov 2012 19:35:34 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

wrote:

I like the maple butcher block tops. A few hundred dollars, but nice
to look at, stay flat, and seem to last forever. They're heavy
enough that they'll sit on a sturdy frame (preferably fully welded
2" square steel tubing) without bolts.

Ikea is a good source for butcher block tops. I like their beech
tops.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40057396/

Should you cover the butcher-block table top with 1/2" plywood to protect it
from nails, tool-slippage, spilled varnish, and the like?

I suppose you cover hardwood floors with carpeting to keep them nice,
too. Vinyl furniture covers?

I wouldn't be above throwing a sheet of hardboard on top, though. ;-)

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Oct 31, 10:37 am, SMS wrote:
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

The workbench that came with my house was made from full sized 2 x 4's
and 2 x 8's. The top itself is 2 x 8's laid flat and are pretty rough.

I covered the top with 1/4" tempered hardboard to produce a very
smooth surface. I don't mind drilling through it, spilling paint or
cutting oil on it or hammering nails into it because when it gets
really messed up, I take it off and replace it with another sheet of
tempered hardboard for fresh new surface. I'd estimate I've done that
5 or 6 times in about 20 years.

I nailed 1/4" thick back band molding around the edges of the
workbench for a smoother edge and to hold the hardboard in place
without and nails or glue.

Another thing to consider is your electrical layout. My workbench top
extends about 4 inches beyond the horizontal 2 x 4 that supports the
front edge. I ran 4 duplex receptacles, evenly spaced, along the 2 x 4
so that my cords are never in my way on top of the workbench. That
keeps the area behind the workbench (a wall in my case) free from
cords and nothing I put on the workbench blocks any receptacles.

My shop is pretty small, but I also have multiple receptacles on the 2
side walls so I can plug tools into wherever will give me the most
working room free from cords.

I put hardboard for top layer on wood bench. The bench, about 38 inches
wide, made with rough cut ,4X4's and 2X6 , must weigh 200 pounds. That came
with house. Must have been built in house. I have to cut it down so I can
fit through future doorways. Garage metal bench with two layers of
chipboard. Lightly painted with varnish.

Greg

On 11/2/2012 9:05 AM, SMS wrote:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/3364815903.html

Went and got two of these doors today. These suckers must weigh 150
pounds each. They're commercial doors, eight feet high.

Cut 36" off each one and put them in place. Other than the hinge and
hardware holes they look good. Got ten really nice hinges out of the
dealt too. Maybe I'll put some Masonite on top.

On Oct 31, 7:37*am, SMS wrote:
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

from experience:

1. make surface light colored and place diffuse lighting in a non-
reflective position.
2. make surface robust, oil resistant, won't dent or scratch with over
40 awkward pounds set on it, and yet smooth for finding small parts
3. support, support, support in a manner that still allows you to get
your knees under the top - anywhere. [you have no idea how irritating
slight flexing can be.]
4. make kitchen counter height, but slightly higher to adjust to
yourself. Too high and uncomfortable angle to work, too low and you're
bent over all day [get roll around bar stools that quit moving when
you apply sitting pressure and allow you to 'lean' against [slightly
sitting on them] for support. That way, you can walk off, get
whatever, come back, [roll around so you can move chair to different
position - your hands may be holding something and you need to move
that chair] and continue working with little effort. You have NO idea
how tiring getting up and down from a work station can get.
5. be prepared to accept damage to your beautiful work bench. It will
happen.Like the first dent in a new car.

On Oct 31, 7:46*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
My work bench is 1/2 inch CDX. What do you expect to repair? Are you an air
craft mechanic, or what? Mine with 1/2 inch plywood has been plenty fine.

Please put in several power sockets, they come in handy.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

Use a couple of those long 'industrial' type power strips [3-4 ft]
with an outlet every 6 inches, or so. AND DON'T mount down, mount
them on their sides, place them horizontally, else loose items fall
right into the sockets! To make them easily accessible I mounted some
underneath the top along the front. MISTAKE! plugs like to fall out of
that position, plus the cords are loops to catch your feet in. Mount
on a vertical surface along the back about two to four inches up from
the top's surface [clearance for your fingers], where you can plug
cords straight in as you look at the power strips.

On Fri, 9 Nov 2012 06:21:53 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Oct 31, 7:37Â*am, SMS wrote:
I tore out the workbench that was in the garage when we bought the house
(too high, too short) and am building a 3' x 10' bench, and it's almost
done, except for the top.

I need to choose a top. I'm thinking of two 36" x 80" solid core doors
cut to 36" x 60" each. These are a big expensive at $65 each, but I
think plywood is too thin, and AB plywood isn't that much less than the
doors.

Any other ideas?

from experience:

1. make surface light colored and place diffuse lighting in a non-
reflective position.
2. make surface robust, oil resistant, won't dent or scratch with over
40 awkward pounds set on it, and yet smooth for finding small parts
3. support, support, support in a manner that still allows you to get
your knees under the top - anywhere. [you have no idea how irritating
slight flexing can be.]
4. make kitchen counter height, but slightly higher to adjust to
yourself. Too high and uncomfortable angle to work, too low and you're
bent over all day [get roll around bar stools that quit moving when
you apply sitting pressure and allow you to 'lean' against [slightly
sitting on them] for support. That way, you can walk off, get
whatever, come back, [roll around so you can move chair to different
position - your hands may be holding something and you need to move
that chair] and continue working with little effort. You have NO idea
how tiring getting up and down from a work station can get.
5. be prepared to accept damage to your beautiful work bench. It will
happen.Like the first dent in a new car.

All good advice, but most too late for SMS who has the bench already.
Personally, I don't see any benefit in "smooth" or "hard" Never have
trouble seeing anything small on beat up and "dirty" (stained) soft
wood workbench surfaces. I like that character.
Dents keep small parts from rolling off.
Just hang a foxtail and dustpan on a nail stuck in the side of the
bench, and use them.

In article ,
Vic Smith wrote:

Just hang a foxtail and dustpan on a nail stuck in the side of the
bench, and use them.

Wouldn't a nail sticking out of the bench be a safety hazard? I mean,
unless it's a safety nail that automatically retracts when nothing is
hanging on it.

On Fri, 09 Nov 2012 13:36:38 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 09 Nov 2012 10:24:19 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Vic Smith wrote:

Just hang a foxtail and dustpan on a nail stuck in the side of the
bench, and use them.

Wouldn't a nail sticking out of the bench be a safety hazard? I mean,
unless it's a safety nail that automatically retracts when nothing is
hanging on it.

You put the hanger on the leg, under the bench

Yeah, you want top overhang, but we're past the design part.
Somebody just covered knee space.
Most of my hanging nails are in the front top rails.
Used to keep pipe wrenches on them until I went pegboard.
And hammers between 2 nails, which was always a bad idea,
because they can fall on your foot too easily.