Stopped by HD yesterday for an estimate on some butcher block countertop.
Yikes.
They quoted me ~$300 for a 9' laminated piece, w/ backsplash & dripedge.
I believe it was from Vanguard???

I was told the solid variety would be around $800.

So, I'm considering building one myself.

I was thinking about mixing two species of lighter colored woods, white oak
& maple possiblly?

Start with 6/4 stock, cut into 1" strips, alternate strips, glue & clear
coat.

Since food contact is obvious, what type(s) of glue & clear finish is
recommended?
Is glue and clamping sufficient?
I have some Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat sanding sealer, can I start with
this?

Would a solid (single species) backsplash

Any other suggestions are welcome,
ThankX
Ron

"Ron" wrote in message
news:u53Mb.20554$xy6.56974@attbi_s02...
Stopped by HD yesterday for an estimate on some butcher block countertop.
Yikes.
They quoted me ~$300 for a 9' laminated piece, w/ backsplash & dripedge.
I believe it was from Vanguard???

I was told the solid variety would be around $800.

So, I'm considering building one myself.

I was thinking about mixing two species of lighter colored woods, white
oak
& maple possiblly?

Start with 6/4 stock, cut into 1" strips, alternate strips, glue & clear
coat.

Since food contact is obvious, what type(s) of glue & clear finish is
recommended?
Is glue and clamping sufficient?
I have some Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat sanding sealer, can I start with
this?
Did some more research (Googling..) and found a product called 'Salad Bowl
Finish'
from General Finishes. Non-toxic (when dry) and approved for food contact.

Would a solid (single species) backsplash

Any other suggestions are welcome,
ThankX
Ron

On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 03:07:06 +0000, Ron wrote:

Stopped by HD yesterday for an estimate on some butcher block countertop.
Yikes.
They quoted me ~$300 for a 9' laminated piece, w/ backsplash & dripedge.
I believe it was from Vanguard???

I was told the solid variety would be around $800.

So, I'm considering building one myself.

I was thinking about mixing two species of lighter colored woods, white oak
& maple possiblly?

Start with 6/4 stock, cut into 1" strips, alternate strips, glue & clear
coat.

Since food contact is obvious, what type(s) of glue & clear finish is
recommended?
Is glue and clamping sufficient?
I have some Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat sanding sealer, can I start with
this?

Would a solid (single species) backsplash

Any other suggestions are welcome,
ThankX
Ron

Years ago I made one by gluing 1x2 maple and then taking the piece to a
local shop where it was sanded in their wide belt sander. Turned out
great. I never have had any problem with any separation.

I kept mine looking good with an occasional application of mineral oil,
although I always wondered whether this would really be necessary given
the maple being not so porous. I certainly wouldn't put any solvent based
sealer on it.

If I were to make it again, I might get classy and put in some contrasting
wood strips, perhaps of walnut or cherry. Might make my cooking turn out
classy as well.

From: "Ron"

Did some more research (Googling..) and found a product called 'Salad Bowl
Finish'
from General Finishes. Non-toxic (when dry) and approved for food contact.

Actually, all drying finishes are safe for food contact when dry. If you plan
to do any cutting on your countertop, then a film finish like the "Salad Bowl
Finish" will get damaged and be a lot of work to repair. Mineral oil or a
mineral oil and beeswax mixture would be a better choice, since you can wipe
more on when needed. I also like to use unprocessed walnut oil on wooden
eating implements such as bowls and spoons. If you always use a cutting board,
the Salad Bowl Finish is ok.

David

remove the key to email me.

On 11 Jan 2004 12:33:11 GMT, ey (J Pagona aka Y.B.)
wrote:

Actually, all drying finishes are safe for food contact when dry.

Not all of them. I certainly wouldn't trust lead-dried linseed.

When talking about "food safe", then it also matters what the food is.
Some foods (rhubarb, citrus fruit, salt or vinegar) can be much more
active on a surface than others. I can think of plenty of finishes
that I'd trust when full of plain lettuce, but not with a dressed
salad.

Ron,

A 9' piece of 24" wide maple butcherblock should not be anywhere near $800.
I stopped in to the new Woodcraft near me a couple days ago, and they had 24
x 84 workbench tops, laminated/finger jointed maple, on sale for (IIRC)
about $379. It will be a lot of work to make your own, and unless you have
ready access to a *lot* of clamps, a way to surface the block when it's
glued up, and the materials for cheap, it won't be worth it. I know with a
9' length, I'd be needing 9'+ lengths of maple as well, because I wouldn't
want end grain butt joints in the middle of the countertop.

I wouldn't recommend oak, unless it's white oak, and that may not go too
well visually with the maple.

Try restaurant supply places, as well as Grizzly. I believe they sell maple
butcherblock.

Jon E

"Ron" wrote in message
news:u53Mb.20554$xy6.56974@attbi_s02...
Stopped by HD yesterday for an estimate on some butcher block countertop.
Yikes.
They quoted me ~$300 for a 9' laminated piece, w/ backsplash & dripedge.
I believe it was from Vanguard???

I was told the solid variety would be around $800.

So, I'm considering building one myself.

I was thinking about mixing two species of lighter colored woods, white
oak
& maple possiblly?

Start with 6/4 stock, cut into 1" strips, alternate strips, glue & clear
coat.

Since food contact is obvious, what type(s) of glue & clear finish is
recommended?
Is glue and clamping sufficient?
I have some Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat sanding sealer, can I start with
this?

Would a solid (single species) backsplash

Any other suggestions are welcome,
ThankX
Ron

From: "Jon Endres, PE"

I know with a
9' length, I'd be needing 9'+ lengths of maple as well, because I wouldn't
want end grain butt joints in the middle of the countertop.

Strength of an end grain but joint in a row of butcher block is not an issue,
as long as the joint is lapped sufficiently on both sides with a solid piece of
wood. The trick is to keep all of the joints at least 6" apart in adjoining
rows.


David

remove the key to email me.

I bought the maple for an 80"x25"x1.5" from Croffwoodmills.com for about $175
shipped. I bought a finished 72x30 workbench top from Grainger for $200.
I like the one I made better than the one I bought but that may just be me ;-)

"Ron" wrote in
news:u53Mb.20554$xy6.56974@attbi_s02:

Stopped by HD yesterday for an estimate on some butcher block
countertop. Yikes.
They quoted me ~$300 for a 9' laminated piece, w/ backsplash &
dripedge. I believe it was from Vanguard???

I was told the solid variety would be around $800.

So, I'm considering building one myself.

snip

You may want to look for a Lumber Liquidators near you. They sell butcher
block counter top more reasonably than that.

Next question: How soon do you need it done? Making your own will take
you a while. Not every one who uses MY kitchen is willing/able to wait for
me to 'do it up pretty'.

Patriarch, blessed with a very patient wife in MANY regards.